Tuesday, January 25, 2022 Jan 25, 2022
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RESTAURANTS & BARS

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DRINK OF THE MONTH

When it comes to the Gin Fizz, the egg’s the thing. Or at least the egg white, which is what makes this old Southern favorite so smoooooth. Of course, the gin doesn’t hurt. The pros say a Fizz must be thick, but fluffy and airy, too. One of the best we’ve had is at Cafe Pacific. Crescent City Cafe’s is quite tasty too, but you’ll have to bring your own eggs or call in advance since they don’t normally stock that all-important ingredient.

SYBIL TALKS

PROFILE Sybil Kipriotis holds court at the counter of her Deep Ellum diner, regaling her subjects with an eccentric wit and some seri-ously snappy repartee. It doesn’t matter if the eight bar stools (that’s a full house) are occupied with bikers, businessmen, or neighborhood types of the bohemian persuasion, because at Theo’s the counter is a great equalizer. All who gather here leave their egos at the door, entering the 250-square-foot, 50-plus-year-old caboose to sit thigh-to-thigh, chatting and schmoozing with Sybil, while husband Theo dishes up chicken-fried steak, burgers, and the best grilled cheese sandwiches in town. This is comfort food with a capital C; in fact, Sybil swears that many of her customers are closet cholesterol addicts, but their secret’s safe with her. -Anne Warren

An S &. S Redux

REDISCOVERY Newcomers won’t remember, but half the women in Dallas-and almost every woman in Highland Park-marked the milestones in their girl-to-grown-up lives with proper little parties at the S & S Tea Room in Highland Park Village. The original’s gone, but the old haunt has found a new home-a spinoff alter ego has debuted in the recently opened Antique Sampler Mall on Cedar Springs across Mockingbird from Love Field. Tucked discreetly into a front corner overlooking aisles of mellow old silver, burnished mahogany, and yesterday’s cherished treasures, the new S & S could almost be the original reborn, from muted conversations right down to dainty finger sandwiches and spiced tea with sweet breads. Deep green carpets and table linens, pink walls hung with lace and flowered window draperies, fresh flowers on every serene table-the place, and this setting, are a match made in heaven for antique lovers who, while they know they can’t reenter the past, find deep pleasure in recapturing the taste of it.

-Betty Cook

The Rocket Cafe-It’s a Trip



On The Road Prepare to get lost, or at least feel lost, if you travel to Rocket, Texas, at night. But your efforts will be rewarded at The Rocket Cafe, where you’ll find some of the best Southern cooking around.

To get there, take Interstate 35 E south toward Waxahachie. Exit at Highway 77. As you go up the service road, 77 will cut off to your left. Take that left. If you don’t, you will drive into oblivion looking for a turnaround. Stay on 77 until you get to the tight at FM 387. (Interesting note: on the way you’ll pass Willowbrook Hospital, which has a 12-step program to cure any addiction, just in case you become dependent on The Rocket Cafe’s Southern-style cream gravy.) At the light, take a left. Stay on that road until you dead end into FM 813. Take another left and after a few miles you will see a Fina station on your right-that’s The Rocket Cafe.

This growing roadside attraction was opened in June of 1988 by Butch and Darlene Bissonnet, who, as Butch says, “do our ever-lovin’ best to maintain the finest quality.” And, judging from the crowds, their best is definitely good enough.

Butch and Darlene open Wednesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Friday and Saturday they stay open late-until 10 p.m. When you know the way, it only takes about 45 minutes from Dallas, but get an early start so you have time for homemade pie. If you get lost, call Darlene at (214) 576-8634 and she’ll guide you in. -Sally Giddens

hangout of The Month

The perfect setting for a spring afternoon is Baby Routh’s gray-bricked patio. Surround yourself with Florida Magnolia and Old American Elm trees and dig into the dessert we like best- apple cranberry crisp with a scoop of caramel ice cream.

CHEAP EATS DAILY SPECIALS

Budget-bound, international appetites can be satisfied right here in Dallas on any day of the week. Our favorite daily specials:



SUNDAY: Deep El-lum Cafe starts you off with brunch. The cafe eggs, a regional wrinkle on an old-style favorite, are poached and perchedsage atop an English muffin for S7.25.



MONDAY: TheGrape says horsd’oeuvre in Frenchand at leasteight other lan-guages with alist of 20 foreignand domesticcheeses, plus pa-tés. Try them free at the bar with yourchoice of 12 wines by the half-glass, three for $5.



TUESDAY: Mia’s chiles rellenos are a legend in their own time-poblano pep pers pungently stuffed with spiced beef, deep-fried to perfection. $7.95, in cluding rice and beans on the side.



WEDNESDAY: 8.0 turns to Italy with chicken pasta, fettuc- cini with breast meat and vegetablesbathed in creamy Alfredo sauce. With a salad, $6.25.



THURSDAY: Uncle Julio’s heads you south once more, for cabrito-tender roastfor two, with rice, beans, and guaca-mole, $13.95.



FRIDAY: CafeAtheneé transports you to Romania with Osso Buco, the classic veal dish-again, enough to share, including vegetables and bread, $14.95.



SATURDAY: Bar-bec’s brings you home to the world of biscuits and char-broiled steaks-this one a half-pound rib-eye, with salad and vegetable, for $5.95.

-Betty Cook

NEW RESTAURAN



A Colorful Cantina Attacks The Senses



ANITA’S CANTINA You’d never know it from street level, but this kicky little Mexican eatery is the most colorful addition East Dallas has seen in a long time. The hillside building it occupies is new, largely empty as yet, and therefore fairly characterless. But drive around to its rear parking area and Anita’s bursts upon the eye like a faux sunrise, its entrdnce flanked by brightly painted oil drums stacked into pillars. Inside, the color carnival continues with an entry partition made of French doors, each a different hue, along a wall painted to look like a faded old Coca-Cola billboard. The effect, overall, is oddly delightful.

So is the food. Serving from a menu that seems deceptively simple, Anita’s nonetheless offers a pleasant range of Tex-Mex specialties, all executed with an accent on

freshness. On heat, too-the mention of jalapenos in a dish here is to be taken seriously. The salsa is fresh and fiery and the pico de gallo would wring tears of pain, as well as joy, from a stone.

Quesadillas, for example, are no mild grilled-cheese exercise here; ours held chunks of crunchy-tender shrimp (beef, chicken, or crab were also available) in a heady amalgam of cheese, diced onion, and tomato, jalapeno-spiked, with pico de gallo fanning the flame, and globes of sour cream offering solace for sissies.

Admittedly, not everything we sampled was piquant. Another starter of avocado, halved, filled with cheese, then battered and deep-fried, was on the mild side.

Meals on the menu are beef, chicken, crab, and shrimp, and several dishes are offered with a choice of these. The least successful we tried was enchiladas jaiba, involving crab meat instead of chicken in the tart tomatillo-and-sour-cream sauce; the crab’s delicacy was quite overwhelmed by the more assertive sauce flavors, and its texture lost as well.

A casserole called chiliquillas employed sturdier chicken to greater advantage, layering chunks of breast meat in chipotle salsa with melted cheese and sour cream, the whole thing studded with corn chips and tupped with shredded lettuce and tomato. Beef fajitas were better than average, the skirt steak strips marinated and tenderly charbroiled, accented with a lime-sparked guacamole and pico de gallo.

Best of all the specialties we tried was a beef-stuffed chile relleno, the poblano assertive but not too hot, the meat and cheese filling outstandingly well seasoned.

Only two desserts are offered, but both are delicious-sopapillas were huge, crisp, and lightly cinnamoned; something called The Banana Thing was a ripe, broiled banana drizzled with warm praline .sauce under whipped cream and cherries. 7324 Gaston, #319. 328-9639. Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.-Betty Cook

A Korean Adventure



KOREANA You can’t exactly say that this new place in a strip shopping center a block or so south of LBJ Freeway has atmosphere. But it does have more charm than most of the Korean restaurants that seem to be cropping up everywhere these days, thanks largely to the shyly friendly young woman who waited on us. The menu, not differentiating between appetizers and main courses, offers 34 different dishes, all ranging in price between $4.75 and $9.75, except for the beef intestine tripe with rice cakes and vegetables, which comes at a pricey $15.75 and must be ordered for two or more. We passed on the intestines and concentrated on the house specialty, Korean barbecue. These dishes also have to be ordered in a minimum of two servings, but our waitress allowed us to combine two different single orders. We tried the Bul Ko Kee (sliced beef) and Bul Kal Bee (beef short ribs attached to a length of muscle that the server clips with scissors at the table). Most of the tables at Koreana are equipped with grills on which diners can cook their own meat, and we found it fun, as the menu expressed it, “to bring backyard barbecue to cozy dining room.”

Main dishes here are preceded by bowls of soup and accompanied by the usual magnificent assortment of cold vegetables Korean style. Along with the homemade kim chee (fermented cabbage, in this case fiery hot Savoy) came bean sprouts touched with a hint of sesame oil, delicate seaweed, spinach, daikon radishes cut and marinated two different ways, and a beguiling green vegetable that was-as best we could make out from our server’s English-a combination of tiny hot peppers and their leaves. We liked several of the vegetables so much that the waitress offered us seconds, which we happily devoured. To go with the soup we ordered a dish of the fried Korean egg rolls, Yaki Man Doo, and found them to be delectable, half-moon pockets filled with meat.

We also sampled two other main dishes, Jap Chae (noodles with meat and vegetables) and Jo Gee Gui Baik Ban (broiled yellow corvina coated in a spicy paste). The corvina had such a strong taste that we could not be sure whether it was coming from a slightly old fish or from the heady marinade. In any case, we are sure that most Westerners will find the barbecue and the vegetables the most appealing thing here, but there are lots of more unusual dishes at reasonable prices on the menu that we are eager to go back and explore. Highpoint Village, 12101 Greenville Ave.r #107. 437-1211. Mon.-Sat. II a.m-10 p.m., Sun. 3-10 p.m. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.I,. Taitte



Stubbs Does Dallas

Stubbs Barbecue The “legendary” Stubbs has come to Dallas. The blues and barbecue guru, C.B. “Stubbs” Stubblefield, is originally from Lubbock, where his barbecue joint became a hangout for Texas blues musicians. Eventually Stubbs moved to Austin, and now he’s teamed up with John Kenyon (former Fast and Cool general partner) to open Stubbs Barbecue in the old Greenville Avenue Country Club location.

The restaurant is lighter and brighter than it used to be as the GACC; the walls serve as a decorative scrapbook of Stubbs’s association with musicians, the famous and near-famous. There’s an interesting, really a wonderful, collection of carved folk art figures by Rev. Hunter displayed inside and on the patio. But of course the main change is that the notorious Country Club swimming pool has been mostly filled in, leaving only what Kenyon calls “the Greenville Avenue Memorial Fish Pond” (as yet without fish or even water).

So far, Stubbs doesn’t have the blues-live music will be introduced soon-but it does have the barbecue. Beef ribs were blackened outside, and the deep pink meat was falling off the bone. Pork ribs were equally tasty, though chewier. Brisket was tender and smoky, and chicken still juicy under its deep brown skin. The sausage, an import from Central Texas, was coarse-textured and firecracker hot-definitely a specialty item. All the side dishes were tasty, but one, the Texas rice, was a real original. Sort of a barbecued version of Louisiana “dirty rice,” the firm while grains had been cooked with chopped onions and peppers and bits of barbecued beef and sausage-its smoky-hot, rich flavor complemented the crumbly sweet cornbread so well that the pair could make a meal. Peach ice cream, cobbler, and a rather solid buttermilk chess pie were all dessert ideas, but we were happiest with the old-fashioned banana pudding, the recipe surely from the back of the vanilla wafers box. If it’s a nice night, you can take your beer and ’cue out to the patio and picnic around the empty fish pond. With live goldfish in the pond and live music in the air, Stubbs will be a soulful mecca on lower Greenville. 3619 Greenville Ave. 828-4035. Sun.-Thur. 11-11, Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m.-1 a.m. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.

-Mary Brown Malouf



Citified Tex-Mex



DON ENRIQUE’S MEXICAN CUISINE Those who remember the Chaise Lounge’s dark, roadhouse-bar ambience will find it completely erased in this new, citified Mexican eatery. Clearly, Don Enrique’s aims to please the all-ages family trade, especially the swelling ranks of boomers with children who still like to eat out but, more budget-minded than they used to be, also like to get their money’s worth.

Don Enrique’s gives it to them in a mammoth menu that spans a broad spectrum of prices and known Mexican dishes: while some of the dinner specialties run as high as $12.95, many are much less. Servings are generous, presentations are pretty, and ingredients on our visits were fresh and top-quality.

We were particularly charmed by two of the starters we tried. A quintet of pork tamales. fall-apart tender and juicily flavorful, had to be handmade; and rajas con crema, piquant poblano pepper ribbons sautéed with mushrooms and gentled with Chihuahua cheese in a delicate cream sauce, were simply lovely.

Seasoning was subtle in the sour cream and Swiss cheese sauce topping a pair of chicken-stuffed enchiladas Suiza; carne Tampiquena presented well-marinated sirips of grilled sirloin in Chihuahua cheese sauce spiked with poblano peppers.

House specialties at the high end of the price spectrum were uncommonly generous-filet San Lucas, an eight-ounce tenderloin, was grilled to order and almost embarrassingly overdressed with oysters, crab meat, and shrimp in rich butter sauce. Shrimp caleta was a half-dozen, crisp-tender jumbos, smoky in a spicy chipotle sauce-altogether admirable.

Far less charming was the dinner’s dessert. We’d tried the house flan on our luncheon visit and found it deliciously innocent. The dinner’s mango flan, though, was a showy horror-instead of the fresh mango topping we’d envisioned, the flan was cooked on a base of nuts and fruit, then crowned with a vast billow of spray-can whipped cream and strawberries drowned in scarlet gel. Why? Who knows, and we could hardly ask our waiter, who. besides being blameless in this case, had performed his duties beautifully; service throughout, in fact, could hardly have been improved. And, the unspeakable dessert aside, everything else about Don Enrique’s left us with a positive feeling that the restaurant is a worthwhile addition to the dining scene. 3010 N. Henderson. 828-2014. Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., fri. & Sat. 11-11. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.



Pigging Out In Deep Ellum

baker’s Ribs With what I fear is a self-revealing lapsus linguae, I keep referring to this new restaurant as “Baker’s Pig”-a clue to my behavior whenever I visit. Of course, it’s also a visual clue-the pink neon pig over the entrance makes Baker’s hard to miss when you’re driving down Commerce.

There’s a new style of barbecue pit evolving in Texas-it involves salad bars, steamed vegetables, and a wine selection. Baker’s is not one of these. The typical brick-walled, high-ceilinged Deep Ellum space has been left rusticly plain; decorative bric-a-brac is limited to old advertising signs, rusting farm implements, and a mural of some armadillo-mounted cowboys rustling up a herd of pink pigs. Paper towel rolls on each table let you in on the idea that this is not one-hand-in-your-lap finger food you’ll be eating, but the two-fisted kind. Sure, there are side dishes: proper ones like potato salad, cole slaw, beans, and bags of chips. There’s even a pasta salad! But all these are pretty much beside the point. Baker’s is about barbecue.

To start with the title subject, the ribs here are rich and meaty, crusted with black pepper and cooked slowly so you can taste the fat but not see it in the tender meat. Chicken has been cooked slowly and long enough for the meat to turn smoky-pink and the mahogany skin to render its fat till it’s a thin, crackling shell around moist meat. Brisket, sliced, has the charred exterior and red stripe that is the mark of good barbecue; even sliced smoked turkey is good here, with a full, smoky, fresh flavor.

The question of dessert after such a whole hog meal as barbecue brings up the idea of “Baker’s Pig” again, but I have to point out that what we call “hand pies” are remarkably good here. Imported from Kilgore’s Flake and Nut Co., the apricot fried pie was indeed flaky, filled with tart and spicy fruit-worth finding some room for. 2724 Commerce St. 748-5433. Mon.-Thur. 11 a.m.-9p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.

-M.B.M.



Made In Texas

Texas Hamburgers Outside this spiffy, already crowded new place, a Texas flag on a full-scale pole can be seen from blocks away. Inside, the menu boasts that the burgers here are built in Texas by Texans, and you can believe it: general manager Lindy Santerre is fifth generation, descended from a member of the French settlers that founded La Reunion, the community that was to become Dallas.

Even so. it’s not who makes a burger, but how the burger’s made that matters, and the four versions offered on this exuberant establishment’s all-fresh, all-from-scratch bill of fare will stand comparison to any I’ve had. All-beef, cooked to order, and stacked with the traditional accessories on big poppy-seed buns, they range from a half-pound Big Tex to three one-third-pound versions involving cheese, bacon, or chili. My choice, called the Outlaw and described as “too good to be legal” (a forgivable exaggeration), was piled with smoky bacon strips on a medium-rare patty, with sliced, ripe tomato, sweet onion, and a lettuce leaf.

Fine as it was, the burger was almost outshone by my companion’s sandwich adventure, “the best damn chicken-fried steak sandwich you ever had.” In this case, the menu description was no exaggeration at all-the hand-breaded cutlet, a flavorful sprawl of juicy, tender beef, was superlative, a term no native-born Texan bestows lightly. I’ll not apply it, for instance, to a second visit’s fried catfish sandwich; although the two big fillets were succulent inside their cornmeal crust, they were merely superior.

Side dishes ranged, too, from absolutely perfect double-battered onion rings and fresh, skins-on fries to a bowl of rather timidly seasoned chili that departed from the claimed Real Thing by mixing in beans and chunks of tomato with its ground beef.

Desserts were creative and delicious; something called a Texas Armadillo, vanilla ice cream in a chocolate shell topped with pecans, was good, light Tun, and a day’s special, presented as Jeri’s La Reunion French Colony chocolate torte. layered dark mousse with white whipped cream on a cookie crust to delectable effect.

1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Mon.-Fri. 6 a.m.-3 p.m. All credit cards. Inexpensive. -B.C.



Spanish Spoken Here

Cafe Madrid I was prepared to like this place. Spanish food, particularly the bar snacks called tapas, was the food faddist’s darling a few years ago, topping the list of trends. It never caught on here, perhaps because Dallas’s Spanish restaurants have been too trendy-pricey, high-budget establishments aimed at the well-heeled chic. Cafe Madrid seemed more like the tapas bars I’d read and heard about- completely unpretentious and casual. And, though the service was aggravatingly slow on our visit, and the quality of the food was uneven, there is a convivial spirit to the place that, along with its low prices and Spanish wines, will entice me to return.

The tapas offered on our visit were mostly classic dishes, and by and large they were better than the full meal that followed. Tortilla a la espanola, a savory brown cake of sliced potatoes and grated onion bound with egg, was delicious, especially with a dip of pungent garlic sauce served alongside. Ham croquettes were crunchy morsels giving way to creamy centers, easy to eat as popcorn. Gambas en la plancha, grilled shrimp, still had shell, head, and “whiskers” on; swimming in a pool of garlicky olive oil, they made messy finger food. A “plato frio” held a slice of authentic Spanish manchego cheese, along with olives and strong-flavored, fat-streaked ham. It’s too bad the house bread isn’t of better quality; its soft texture and grocery-store taste were no match for the earthy flavors of the ham and cheese. Skewered beef slices had a hot pepper and garlic coating, but the meat was just too chewy to really enjoy.

The prix-fixe dinner menu offered two choices of three-course meals-we tried one of each. The clear fish soup, topped with hot buttered croutons, would have been an appetite teaser had we not been so full of tapas; the alternative plate of artichoke hearts and black olives in a garlic vinaigrette was more ordinary. The paella, a pile of saffron-scented rice, skimped slightly on its other ingredients-a lone chicken wing and a pair of mussels, along with chorizo, were the most notable. The baby snapper, sided with steamed potatoes, tasted fresh but was slightly overcooked.

Cafe Madrid is brand new; time should smooth out the inconsistencies in the service and the kitchen. We will definitely go back to find out. 4501 Travis St. 528-1731. Mon.-Thur. 5 p.m.-midnight, Fri. & Sat. 5 p.m.-1 a.m. MC, V. Inexpensive to moderate.

-M.B.M.



Pasta Imperfect



LA FONTANA A busy, noisy seafood restaurant occupied this space the last time we ventured here. Now the place is quieter, with a new Italian menu and a name that honors the rather businesslike fountain that one can see out the window-an adornment of the adjoining small office tower. The menu is ambitious, with such things as oysters Rockefeller and clams bordelaise among the appetizers. The oysters, sadly, have a tough gratìnee topping and none of the Pernod flavor that is supposed to characterize this New Orleans invention. The clams, in a huge portion, boast lots of garlic. Other appetizers include a heavy version of fried calamari in which the squid are cut into rectangles rather than rings, and “pizze”-not your New Wave California pies, but bready, miniature ones with old- fashioned toppings like hamburger.

The main courses also put a lot of emphasis on seafood. The version of cioppino includes shrimp, white fish, and clams along with crab still in the shell. The fish of the day we tried was one we had seen caught in fishing tournaments on the Gulf Coast but never actually eaten before- marlín. It turned out to be a more delicate version of swordflsh, and, in its garlic butter sauce, the best dish we found at La Fontana. Garlic and seafood also play major roles in the house specialty pasta dish-pasta alla Fontana tops wide noodles with large, partly shelled scampi that look gorgeous but are too chewy and undersalted. Vitello cordon bleu proved an overbreaded version of the classic dish of veal rolled with ham and cheese. After such a meal it is difficult to find room for some of the desserts, like the Grand Marnier chocolate cake and the cheesecake. 12255 Greenville. 437-3463. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Thur. 5-10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 5-11 p.m. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.

D REVISITS



CAJUN



D Revisits Crescent City Cafe. Taken as a whole, (his continues as one of the most authentic Cajun spots in the city; the long, high-ceilinged room with the simple tables and lazy fans feels like an old New Orleans cafe. Only the very hip waitpersons and the modern music clue you that this is artsy Deep Ellum. not the bluesy Quarter. The food is good, inexpensive, and. for the most pan. accurately prepared. A cup of creamy red beans and rice and a quarter of a muffaletta (provolone, olive salad, and salami on round Italian bread) made a great supper: a cup of dark gumbo (slightly short on seafood) and a seafood platter (fried shrimp, oysters, and fish piled on white toast) made a feast. Coffee is good: beignets only so-so. 2730 Commerce 745-1900. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.

CHINESE



D Revisits Restaurant Jasmine. This upstairs Ad-dis4002 Belt Line Rd. 991-6867. Moderate. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Szechwan Pavilion. This pretty place was packed on our last visit-there was not an empty table and people were waiting at the door. Perhaps consequently. the service was less attentive than usual. Or perhaps we would not have been as aware of the slower pace if the sur roundings had been more serene. At any rate, the food was worth the wait-savory potstickers and ribs to begin, fol lowed by spicy garlic pork and delicious orange beef, the chewy, crisped squares of meat bathed in a hot, tangy sauce with bits of orange peel and pepper. The crispy fish was presented whole in all its golden, fried glory, then dissected and sauced by the waiter, with a slight sweet sauce full of crunchy julienned vegetables. When we finished, only the bones and the cherries that were his eyes were left. 8411 Preston Rd. 368-4303. Moderate. -M.B.M.



FRENCH /CONTINENTAL

D Revisits Brasserie Calluaud. Can a place where a dinner for two runs to the hundred-dollar level legitimately call itself a brasserie? If it’s this one it can. Guy Calluaud could call his establishment a truck stop for all I care-the food served from his kitchen earns him the privilege. On our last visit, every selection we tried from the menu lived up to my memories of his much-mourned five-star restaurant. A starter of seafood chowder, wearing a single coy mussel for ornament, was velvet smooth, its rich depths studded with shrimp, scallops, and fish. Lobster souffle was even more incredibly wonderful, prodigiously graced with sweet lobster meat in an almost-crisp-skinned pouf under deep- flavored lobster sauce. Each of our entrees was perfect in its own way. Veal sweetbreads transcended any others I’ve had. their breading delicate, the tender flesh silken, their sauce a triumph of smoothness punctuated by the small taste explosions of the mustard seeds that accented its tomato and cepe mushrooms. Roasted rack of lamb was more robust, four rare baby chops, charred crisp outside, served with a heap of slim French fries. Desserts ended the meal on the same high level, a hot apple tart fine-crusted, its pinwheel of apple slices needing no sweetness but their own; creme brulee. a lavish billow in fine pastry under its fragile sugar- shell topping. 4544 McKinney. 521-2277. Moderate to expensive. -B.C.



ITALIAN

D Revisits MoMo’s Italian Specialties. You’d never know to look at this unassuming place that it is the most ambitious and authentic of our Italian eateries. Of the antipasti, we are partial to the two seafood salads: the insalata alla MoMo’s combines small pieces of lobster and smoked salmon with hearts of palm and endive, the insalata alla pescatora melds shrimp, scallops, and lots of squid with parsley, garlic, and olive oil. We’ve always preferred the stuffed or dried pastas here to the fresh ones, which tend to be overcooked. This time the tortelli di formaggio. fist-sized pockets of pasta filled with four kinds of cheese, proved outstanding. Meat dishes tend to be assertive in taste. The veal scallopini with mushrooms sounds ordinary, but the porcini (dried Kalian mushrooms) give the sauce a pungent edge. Just as singular is the prosciutto al madera, a slice of ham topped with a golden Madeira sauce. Our favorite things at MoMo’s tend to be on the heavy side, but there are new heart-healthy items on the menu (introduced since our visit). You have to ask your waitperson about them, though: they are not indicated by any symbol. 9191 Forest Lane. #A2. 234-6800. Moderate. -W.L.T.



JAPANESE



D Revisits Mr. Sushi. More than ever. Mr Sushi seems our best Japanese restaurant. It really doesn’t serve anything much different from most other places, but the equality of the foodstuffs and of the preparation is very high. Among the appetizers, both the chicken kara age (what Chicken McNuggets warn to be when they die and go to heaven) and the gyoza (tasty little dumplings) start a meal with a bang. You have a wide choice of sushi and sashimi here, and the sampler plate includes fresh mackerel, yellowtail. and salmon eggs along with the more commonly seen tuna and shrimp. The fish is blessedly fresh and expertly cut. though the dose of wasabi (the green Japanese horseradish preparation) on the sushi might bring tears to some eyes. Those who prefer their fish cooked could not do better than the salmon butteryaki, broiled to perfection. And those who must have their red meat will be happy with the beef teriyaki, a slender steak not too strongly marinated. 4860 Belt line, Addson. 385-0168. Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.



MEXICAN

D Revisits Javier’s. This wholly cosmopolitan Mexican restaurant has apparently found a formula for success that needs no further refining-year after year, the place is Tilled with the faithful, with no apparent changes except for an occasional expansion. The secret here, besides seamless service, is in Javier’s absolutely consistent food, starting with the standard house salsas (a fiery green, a milder red) and peerless thin chips. I cannot imagine being served a less than perfect steak here, any more than I can imagine dining here without ordering one: Javier’s filete pimienta, a melt- in-your-mouth tenderloin filet anointed with spicy black pepper sauce, possibly deserves recording in the annals of enduring world classics. Other dishes on our last visit were also noteworthy-a starter of ceviche showcased sea scal lops, lime-infused, glistening with freshness. Black bean soup was deeply seasoned. lopped with cheese and ripe avocado slices. Red snapper mop de ajo was wonderfully garlicky, sauteed, and lime-sauced, with a fresh saute of vegetables on the side. 4912 Cole Ave. 521-4211- Moderate to expensive. -B.C.

HEW AMERICAN

D Revisits Dakota’s. The decor here has been mel lowed by lime from cutting-edge to classic. The rather hard- edged look of the geometric marble floor and Hack columns is softened by the flickering light From the flaming sconces and the shimmering view of the water-wall in the patio. This remains the business person’s favorite-even at night; you would guess, from the diners’ duds, that Dakota’s has a dress code suggesting “serious business attire” for everyone. The menu is conservatively New American; focusing on grilled specialties, (he simply cooked meats and fish are sparked with imaginative side dishes and sauces. On our visit, a special of grilled swonifish was served on a pool of smoked crawfish butter, the juicy red lamb chops complemented by a minted couscous. The grilled artichokes made a fine first course, but the Caesar salad, short on garlic and anchovies, came off as wimpy in contrast to the other robust flavors. Both desserts we tried were grand finales: creamy, white chocolate ice cream on burnt-sugar sauce with fudge brownie lingers, and killer-rich Key lime pie. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001- Moderate to expensive. -M.B.M.



FORT WORTH

D Revisits Chas. Kincaid Grocery Co. Kincaid’s burgers arc known throughout the West: the crowds that jam the aisles between counters come from every walk of life, a range reminiscent to Dallasites of the pickup-to-Mercedes mix associated with Sonny Bryan’s local barbecue mecca. Kincaid’s sells barbecue. UK); what these pilgrims come for, though, is a splendid, juicy patty of great ground beef, well over an inch thick and perfectly grilled, enshrined in a big bun with whatever fixin’s are specified. The potato salad’s among the few I’ve had with as much crunch as homemade, the pinto beans are strictly home-style, and the banana pudding and cobblers are good enough to be frequent sellouts before lunch hour’s half over. But it’s the burger itself that beggars description-and seduces throngs into lunching along the stand-up counters that lop grocery display shelves. What you do is line up to give your order, gel your own cold drink out of the 50-cent machine, and spend the time until your burger’s ready leafing through the motley array of magazines strewn on the countertops between electrified kerosene lanterns. The woman who lakes your money is as neighborly as your Aunt Maud, the atmos phere’s as small-town friendly as you’ll find anywhere, and the sign above the back food bar-the one that says. “This is where friends meet to eat”-is absolutely right. 4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive. -B.C.



RESTAURANTS

D RECOMMKNDS



AFGHAN

Safi’s Afghan Cuisine. 14848 Inwood. Addison. 991-9292. Moderate.



BARBECUE

Anderson’s Barbecue House. 5410 Harry Hines Blvd. (across from Parkland). 630-0735. Inexpensive.

Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.

Blue Ribbon B-B-Q. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird and Abrams). 823-5524. Inexpensive.

Bob Willy’s. !933 Preston, Piano. 596-0903. Inexpensive to moderate.

Bubba’s Texas Bar-B-Q. 4208 Live Oak. 821-7062 Inexpensive.

Dickey’s Barbecue. 4610 N. Central Expwy. 823-0240. Inexpensive.

Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Que. 3002 Canton. 939-9419 Inexpensive.

Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.

Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N. Market. Suite 104. 742-7001 Inexpensive to moderate.

Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Inexpensive.

Spring Creek B-B-Q. 270 N. Central Expwy., Richardson. 669-0505. Inexpensive.

TNT Bar-B-Que. 2739 W. Northwest Hwy. .152-6666. Inexpensive.



BRITISH

Jennivine. 1605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate to expensive.

Jennivine Culinary Centre, 3521 Oak Grove at Lemmon Ave. 528-4709. Inexpensive.

Lancashire Room. 127 E. Main St., Lancaster. 218-9215 Inexpensive to mode rate.



BURGERS

The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive.

Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.

Chips. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 101. 350-8751. Inexpensive.

8.0. 2800 Routh St 979-0880. Inexpensive.

Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.

Prince of Hamburgers. 5210 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.

Purdy’s. 4812 Belt Line. Addison. 960-2494. 1403 E. Campbell. Richardson. 480-0288. 2200 Walnut Hill at Story Ln. 255-6447. Inexpensive.

Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. Inexpensive.



CAJUN

Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive.

Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.

Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.

Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Rd.. Plano 422-2469. Inexpensive to moderate.

Nate’s Seafood and Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Rd . Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.

Pontchartrain. 13444 Preston Rd. 385-1522. Inexpensive.



CHINESE

August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy. 881-0071. Moderate.

Beijing Grill. 2200 Cedar Springs in The Crescent. Suite 148. 871-6868. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Panda. 7979 lnwood, Suite 121. 902 9500. Moderate.

Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th. Suite 80. Plano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.

Chu’S Restaurant. 15080 Beltway (off Belt Line between Addison and Midway Rds.). Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.

Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.

Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk. Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.

May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at lnwood. 392-9998. Moderate.

Plum Blossom. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Expensive

Snow Pea. 2007 Abram Pkwy. (off Gaston). 824-4354. inexpensive.

Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line. Addison. 387-2333. 6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. Moderate.

Taton. 9243 Skillman. Suite 104. 343-0545. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tong’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.

Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.

Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy.. Suite 3370. 934-9998. Expensive.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Royal. Plaza of (he Americas, 650 N. Pearl. 979-9000. Expensive to very expensive.

Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate.

The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce, 742-8200. Expensive.

The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.

Jonathan’s. The Centrum. 3102 Oak Lawn. Suite 444. 520-8308. Moderate.

La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. Inexpensive.

L’Ambiance. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.

L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.

Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.

L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.

Mr. Peppe. 5617 W. Lovers Ln. 352-5976. Moderate to expensive.

The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.

Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.

York St. 6047 Lewis St. (off Skillman at Live Oak). 826-0968. Moderate to expensive.



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN

Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort. Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.

Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.

Bohemia. 2810 N. Henderson. 826-6209. Expensive.

The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.

Franki’s Li’I Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Rd. at Buckner. 320-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hofstatter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek. 3830 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Inexpensive.

Old Munich. 9100 N. Central Expwy. at Park Lane. Suite 117. 369-7737. Moderate.



GREEK

Athens Cafe. 5290 Belt Line. Suite 118. Addison. 99I-9I85- Inexpensive to moderate.

Augustus. 15375 Addison Rd., Addison. 239-8105. Expensive.

Crackers Restaurant. 2621 McKinney Ave. 871-7268. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman. 351-4592 Moderate.

Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave 826-4910. Inexpensive.



HOME COOKING

Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W Parker Rd., Suite 527. Piano. 424-2114. Inexpensive.

Brownie’s Restaurant. 5519 E. Grand Ave. 824-2996 Inexpensive.

Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Moderate.

Fox Hunt Pub & Grill. Manor House, 1222 Commerce at Field. 748-6686. Inexpensive to moderate.

Frank’s. 920 S. Pearl Expwy. 747-1071. Inexpensive.

Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Rd. 327-3663. 5100 Belt Line. Suite 600. 934-8800. Lincoln Plaza. Second Floor, 500 N. Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.

Mama’s Daughters Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.

The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.

Rosemarie’s. I411 N. Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.

Theo’s Diner. Ill S. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.

Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N. St. Paul & Bryan. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.

Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Ln. 691-2976. Inexpensive.



INDIAN

Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center, Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).

Ashoka. 5409 Belt Line. Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.

India Palace Restaurant. 13360 Preston Rd. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.

Mumtaz. The Atrium. 3101 N. Fitzhugh at McKinney Ave, Suite 101. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sitar. 9560 Skillman. #104. 343-2063. Inexpensive to Moderate.

Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 179 692-0535. Moderate.



ITALIAN

Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.

Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.

Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.

Avanti. 2720 McKinney Ave. 871-4955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).

Cafe Italia. 5000 Maple. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.

Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Ln.. Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.

Capriccio. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.

Chianti. 4820 Greenville Ave. 691-6769. Moderate.

Ciao. 3921-B Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Inexpensive to moderate.

Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd.. in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 741-3304. Moderate.

Hip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave 824-9944. Moderate.

II Sorrento. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive.

La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.

Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Ln. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mario’s. 135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Expensive.

Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Ln. 351-1426. Inexpensive to moderate.

MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive,

Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376 Moderate.

Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.

Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Shopping Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive.

Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line. Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.

Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Ln. (at Preston). 368-5039- Inexpensive to moderate.

Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.

Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.

Spaghetti Inn-Mike’s Italian Restaurant. 6465 E. Mockingbird. 827-7035. Moderate.

311 Lombardi’s.
311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.



JAPANESE/KOREAN

Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.

Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy.. Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.

Kobe Steaks. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Belt Line. Suite 600.934-8150. Moderate to expensive.

Mr. Sushi & Hibachi. 9220 Skillman. 349-6338. Moderate.

Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village, Suite 360. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Plano. 881-0328. Moderate.

Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.

Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.

Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. Moderate.

Sushi On McKinney. 4500 McKinney Ave. 521-0969. Moderate.



MEDITERRANEAN

Adeline’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.

Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy., in the Grand Kernpinski Dallas Hotel- 386-6000 Expensive.



MEXICAN

Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.

Blue Mesa Grill. Village on the Parkway, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy.. Suite 500, Addison. 934-0165, Inexpensive to moderate.

Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. at Prospect. 821-6501. Moderate.

Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line, Addison. 458-0962. Moderate.

Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.

Casa Rosa. 163 Inwood Village (Inwood at Lovers Ln.). 350-5227. Moderate.

Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. and University. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.

Emmilia’s. 2001 Greenville Ave. 826-6087, Inexpensive to moderate.

Garmo’s y Lito’s. 2847 N. Henderson, 821-8006. Inexpensive to moderate.

Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive. J.

J.Pepe”s. 2800 Routh St., Suite 115. 871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Botica Cafe. 1900N. Haskell. 824-2005. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Supreme Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. 388-1244. Inexpensive.

Lorna Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Moderate.

Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy. at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.

Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 105 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721. 22! W. Parker. Suite 400, Plano. 423-2977. Moderate.

The Martinez Cafe. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston (Preston Park Village). Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.

Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line. Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.

On The Border Cafe. 3300 Knox. 528-5900. Moderate.

Pappasitos. 723 S. Central Expwy. 480-8595. Moderate.

Primo’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive.

Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 7726 Ferguson Rd. 328-5797. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ricardo’s. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Moderate.

Uncle Julio’s. 7557 GreenvilJe Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.

Villa Margarita. 362 Promenade Center, Coit and Bell Line. Richardson. 235-5447. Moderate.

ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest (across from SMU). 521-4456. Inexpensive.



MIDDLE EASTERN

Hedary’s. Promenade Center. 15400 Coit. Suite 2500. Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.



NATURAL

Bluebonnet Cafe & Dell. 22I8 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.

Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St. in ihe Quadrangle. Suite 170. 954-0486. Inexpensive.



NEW AMERICAN

Actuelle. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125. 855-0440. Expensive.

Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.

Beau Nash. Hotel Crescent Court, 400 Crescent Court, Maple a! McKinney Ave. 871-3240. Expensive.

The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.

By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.

Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.

Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.

City Cafe. 5757 W. Lovers Ln. 351-2233. Moderate.

Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.

Huntington’s. Westin Hotel. Galleria. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.

Kathleen’s Cafe and Bar. 4424 Lovers Ln. (between the Tollway and Douglas). 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.

Lakewood Plaza Grill. 6334 La Vista. 826-5226. Inexpensive to moderate.

Landmark Cafe. Omni Melriose Hotel. 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive.

Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive.

Mallbu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate.

Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.

The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.

Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249 Expensive.

Quadrangle Grille. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., Suite 180. 979-9022. Moderate.

Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.

Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court. 855-2233. Moderate to

Spatz. 2912 N. Henderson- 837-7984. Moderate.

Zeke’s Grill. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Inexpensive to moderate.



SEAFOOD

Atlantic Cafe Too! 14866 Mont fort. Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive,

Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.

Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird. 526-1170. Expensive.

Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe, 1915 N. Central Expwy. at Chisholm. Suite 600, Plano. 423-3699. Moderate.

Hampton’s. Berkshire Court. Preston Center. 8411

Preston. 739-3474. Moderate.

Hard Shell Cafe. 6403 Greenville Ave. 987-3477. Moderate.

Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-2910. Inexpensive.

Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.

Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line. 386-0122. Inexpensive to moderate.

Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave. at Pineland. 363-3896 Moderate.

Rusty Pelican. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy., Addison. 980-8950. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.

Scott’s-A Seafood House. 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777 Moderate.

Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill. Suite 810. 361-1422. Moderate to expensive.

STEAKS

Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre. Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.

The Butcher Shop Steak house, 808 Munger, off Lamar. 7211-1032. Moderate.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.

Mike’s Del Frisco’s. 2200 Cedar Springs. Suite 165. at The Crescent. 720-4454. Expensive.

Morton’s of Chicago. 501 Elm St 741-2277. Expensive

Old San Francisco Steak house. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, cast of I-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.

The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.

TAKEOUT/DELI

Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301-A Oak Lawn (entrance on Hall). 522-3354.Inexpensive.

Another Roadside Attraction. 2712 Elm St 761-9135. Inexpensive.

Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd., Suite 117. 980-1444 Inexpensive.

Bagelstein’s. Northwood Hills Shopping Center. 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.

City Market. 2001 Ross. TrammelI Crow Center. 979-2690. Inexpensive.

Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.

Deli News. 15775 Hillcrest, Suite 502, 392-3354. Inexpensive.

The Good Life Catering Co. 6340 Gaston Ave. 821-3194. Inexpensive to moderate.

Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.

Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm St., Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.

Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999. Inex-pensive to moderate.

Polio Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.

Today’s Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Ln. 373-0325. Inexpensive.

Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 158. at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.

THAI

New Slam. 2415 Willowbrook. Suite 108 (at Northwest Hwy. .md Harry Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley, Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.

Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave 821-7666. Inexpensive.

Thai Taste. 4501 Cole Ave. 521-3513. Inexpensive to moderate.

Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.

VIETNAMESE

Ba Le. 4812 Bryan ait Fitzhugh. 821-1880. Inexpensive.

East Wind 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mekong. 4301 Bryan. 824-6200, Inexpensive.

Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.

LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES

Cacharel. Brookhollow Two, 2221 E. Lamar. Suite 910, Arlington. Metro (817) 640-9981. Moderate.

China Terrace. 5435 N. Mac-Arthur. Las Colinas 550-1113 Inexpensive to moderate.

Esparza’s. 124 E, Worth St., Grapevine. Meiro (817) 481-4668. Inexpensive.

Gaspar’s Cafe. 150 S. Denton Tap Rd., Coppell. 393-5152. Moderate.

Moretti’s. 2709 Mustang Drive. Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-3230. Inexpensive to moderate.

Via Real. 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive

FORT WORTH

Benlto’s. 1450 W. Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Inexpensive.

Hedary’s. 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.

Juanlta’s. 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.

La Maree. 3416 W. Seventh, (817) 877-0838. Inexpensive.

Reflections. The Worthington Hotel, 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.

Saint Emilion. 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-278!. Moderate to expensive.

Tejano Mexican Cuisine. 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tours Restaurant. 3500 W, Seventh. (817) 870-1672, Moderate to expensive.

Tuscany. 4255 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-2971 Moderate to expensive.

NIGHTLIFE

The Art Bar. 2803 Main St. 939-0077.

Boiler Room. Pan of Dallas Alley in the West End MarkelPlace. 2019 N. Lamar. 988-0581.

Club Clearview. 2806 Elm St.939-0006.

Gator’s. 1714 N. Market. 748-0243.

Greenville Bar & Grill. 2821 Greenville Ave. 823-6691.

Harper’s. Hillon Inn, 5600 N, Central Expwy. 823-9180.

Improv Comedy Club and Restaurant. 4810 N Central Expwy. 750-5868.

Legends. 15203 Knoll Trail. Addison. 907-2639.

Memphis. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Belt Line. Suite 500 386-9934.

Metronome. 703 McKinney Ave. 720-1300.

Netwerk 403. 5500 Greenville Ave., Suite 403. 361-9517.

Poor David’s Pub. 1924 Greenville Ave. 821-9891.

State. 3611 Parry. 821-9246,

Studebaker’s. NurthPark East. 8788 N. Central Expwy. 646-2475

2826. 2826 Elm St. 741-2826.