hair/makeup ANYTHING GO-GOES

This season, the look is feminine, dramatic and fun. Spring 1985 marks the rebirth of the classic bob and the rediscovery of some long-forgotten hair and makeup styles from the Sixties. Expect to find a look to cater to every mood.

Diversity is the rule. A unique look is available to satisfy the needs of everyone, from the conservative businesswoman with discriminating tastes to the trendy nonconformist with neon preferences. Look for versatile styles that move gracefully from day to night. Watch for hair that cascades forward onto the face, creating a fringed frame for this season’s facial focal point: dark, smoldering eyes.

Hairstylist Paul Neinast of Paul Neinast Inc. believes that a sense of glamour will return. “People are tired of ’nothing’ hair,” he says. “They want some pizazz in their lives. Women want to look sexy.” He says that the wild, full look-the “hot and nasty” trend-is fashionable this season.

Volume gives hair its allure. Last year’s smooth, safe bob is growing up and out, with new, interesting layers and curls. The updated bob is fuller and softer, with more height and swing. “The little-boy look all the girls have is being grown out,” says Steve Hickman of Saks Fifth Avenue Beauty Salon.

Mousses, gels and hairsprays are being used more than ever to achieve that windswept look that requires more than a brisk breeze. William Carr, a hair stylist at The Classic Cut, transforms a plain head of hair into a voluptuous mane with mousse products and a blow dryer. Wet hair is coated with mousse, blow-dried upside down and then combed with the fingers to achieve the “messy” look many of his customers desire for evening.

Other stylists say that the bob-curly or straight-is being replaced by trendier looks. “We’ve bobbed the bob to death,” says Sally Stone of Alan Stone Salon. Stone believes that MTV may encourage some of her customers to experiment with newer looks. “Avant-garde can be done well and it’s beautiful,” she says, “and avant-garde can be done poorly and it’s terrible.” For customers who desire the less conventional, Stone offers the “clash cut.” The clash cut may be the solution for those who can’t decide which way to go-it combines long and short lengths with dark and light colors to create an exciting contrast and a layering technique unique to the Eighties.

Neinast has observed a style from the Sixties that’s making a comeback: the backcomb. Neinast calls this Parisian trend the “Jacqueline Kennedy” look. The style is cropped short in back and full on top. Height is achieved by teasing the hair and styling it with a lift, sweeping this revised bouffant up and away from the face.

Newer styles needn’t be drab in color, either. The best-tressed heads are highlighted with interesting colors, from subtle to brilliant. A special foil weaving technique can be used to enhance the natural hair color; the highlighted strands contrast with the natural ones to create the illusion of a fuller head of hair.

But the color doesn’t stop there. Try introducing navy streaks to black hair. Create a temporary fuchsia fringe around the face with colored mousse. Experiment with “flashlighting,” an exciting new coloring technique at Alan Stone Salon in which the roots and tips remain the natural color but a beam of brilliant color is applied through the middle section of hair.

The total look requires more than a fantastic head of hair. A hairstyle should enhance the face, says stylist Buddy Sharp. “We treat the hair as an accessory,” says Sharp. “We do the hair to accentuate the face.” And the face is worth noticing this spring.

The overall facial look is soft. Foundation is sheer, barely there, and close to the natural skin tone. Cheek color is fragile, with a slight blush of apricot or rose, and lips are nude and lightly stained. But the softness stops there.

“Color is in,” says April Gottberg, manager of Merle Norman Boutique at Prairie Creek. This spring’s color spectrum ranges from the faintest pastels to shocking brights. “Clothing is going bright,” she explains, “so makeup will follow.”

Subdued cheeks and lips form a delicate stage for the dramatic facial highlight of the season-the eyes. “Dark eyes are in,” says Fort Worth stylist Gene Ramsay of Don Martin’s Hair Salon. “Eyes are bright but deep.” They’re vivid and colored with a darker palette of smoky shades. “Using one color is out,” says makeup artist Shawn Pat-ton of Georgette Klinger. “Using three, four, seven-even 12-eyeshadows to achieve one look is in.”

And the look is an eyeful. Dark lids, thick brows and the return of false eyelashes all combine to become what Neinast calls the “Twiggy” eye. Purples, greens and oranges shadow the eyes; browns and blacks make them deep and smoldering. Eye pencils draw attention, and the new colored mascaras (navy, jade, violet) brighten the whole face. The result is an exciting gradation from soft to bright.

The new look doesn’t ignore the hands. The French manicure is the perfect finish to the light spring look. In this method, pale, sheer lacquer replaces last fall’s darker shades. The nail is first painted with a base coat, then white enamel is applied to the nail tips. Finally, the entire nail is coated with a sheer coat for gloss. The look is clean and natural; the emphasis is on the whitened tips of the nails.

Hair and makeup options are endless this spring, and the contrasts are striking. Tame to wild, dark to light, soft to bright-and the result gives women the opportunity to emphasize their special features and the freedom to choose their individual styles.