Nana Bar & Grill. Atop the new high-rise addition to the Loews Anatole, with a magnificent view of the Dallas
skyline, is the Nana Bar and Grill. The name of the place is taken from the oil painting of a nude woman that hangs
over the bar. Apparently, the picture was regarded as a chef-d’oeuvre by our Texas forefathers and was
exhibited at fairs. It recently has been rediscovered and restored, and it sets the mood of the place.
The restaurant serves a self-conscious Texas version of the much-vaunted “New Southwestern Cuisine” (down to the
pecans dusted with cayenne and cinnamon that are served at the bar) and is lavishly rugged with its deep red-brown
appointments and the black-and-white marble that’s found in everything from the floors to the service plates.
Is “Southwestern Cuisine” anything more than a gimmick? At Nana Grill, the answer is yes-sometimes. It does seem a
bit coy to serve cream cheese and two kinds of hot-pepper jelly (instead of butter) with the toast rounds at the
beginning of the meal. Other rather precious touches: Below the cute oneword names of the dishes (Beef, Turkey,
Peaches) on the menu are elaborately descriptive explanations, and the solicitous but not quite polished waiters
venture even more elaborate assurances that the food is like nothing you have ever eaten before-certainly not
French (shudder) cuisine-but is, instead, a revolutionary combination of Mexican-American, Spanish and
Italian elements. We don’t find it reassuring that the most highly recommended first course, oysters-baked with a
topping loaded with cil-antro-is disappointing. The taste is odd; there’s a lot of crunch in the topping, but it’s
not very good. Among the appetizers, we enjoyed the scallops marinated in lime juice and served cold with a
sprinkling of red caviar. The salad of black-eyed peas with bacon and lots of garlic was also extraordinary.
Many restaurants offer entr?es that are far less exciting than the appetizers. At Nana Grill, the opposite is true:
The main dishes are by far the best things on the menu. The 16-ounce porterhouse steak is, surprisingly, too small;
we like a thicker steak (so that it can be very rare and still well-seared on the outside). This steak, however, was
admirably cooked on the huge, open grill that overlooks one part of the restaurant and was served with rajas
of poblano chiles. The thick veal chop was tasty indeed, but the highlights of our meals were the salmon and the
wild turkey. The salmon was beautifully char-broiled and was served on a creamy sauce that was rich with fresh dill.
The thick slices of turkey breast were juicy and luxuriant in a sauce of dried apricots and pimento-slightly sweet
but succulent. The wine list includes appropriate vintages to accompany this rich fare, but we found too few bottles
in the moderate price range.
Desserts are equally ambitious, but we didn’t find them quite as successful as the main courses. The chocolate
mousse with pecan pieces and the pecan meringues separated with chocolate cream were our favorites. The peach
cobbler was lighter than most versions but was still rather corn-starchy. The dish dubbed “Ice Cream” should be
called “Faked Alaska.” It was a pie of raspberry and vanilla ice creams on a cookie crust, topped with a rather
gooey meringue and baked, then surrounded by raspberry and chocolate sauces. Although the ingredients were of high
quality and the concept was fun, it didn’t quite work. But the coffee (even decaffeinated) was bracing. And we have
to say that while Nana Grill doesn’t yet score nearly as high an average as its much-praised new rival in the
American nouvelle sweepstakes-the Routh Street Caf?-no single dish we have had at Routh Street has been as
impressive as the salmon or turkey at Nana. And Nana Grill is certainly more reasonably priced than most Dallas
restaurants of comparable pretension. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-7200. Lunch: Mon-Fri
11-2:30; dinner: daily 6-10:30. Reservations recommended for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)
Mr. Sushi. Dallas doesn’t get new Japanese restaurants as often as, say, New York, where it seems there is
one on every corner. Thus, we are happy to announce that Dallas’ newest, Mr. Sushi, is cause for rejoicing. It may
be the best Japanese restaurant in town; it’s certainly the most fun. What Mr. Sushi offers is an authentic sushi
bar: a counter behind which several formidable-looking Japanese men wield vicious-looking knives to slice-artfully
and miraculously-hunks, cubes and slivers of raw fish. The blocks of fish, along with tentacles of octopus, squid,
shrimp and salmon eggs, sit meticulously wrapped in plastic in refrigerated cases atop the bar.
If a bar with the sole purpose of divvying up raw fish doesn’t excite you, maybe it’s just because you haven’t been
brave enough to try raw fish. We must confess that we love it. If the fish is suitably fresh and properly cut, we
prefer it to all but the most marvel-ously prepared cooked fish. And our first experiences at Mr. Sushi convinced us
that these people know how to do sushi right. You can order a plate of either sashimi (raw fish served plain) or
sushi (fish served on little pillows of vinegar-flavored rice or slices of fish with rice rolled up in black
seaweed). Or you can take fate into your own hands and order by the piece specific items described on a little form
that lists the names of all the choices in Japanese and English. The tuna is bright red and is as tender as the best
rare beef, while yellowtail is softer and richer. Octopus and abalone may be too chewy for most American tastes, but
most explorers will find something to enjoy in the bright, refreshing taste of the marinated rice, spicy pickled
ginger and incredibly pungent green horseradish.
Mr. Sushi also does a very good job with the standard Japanese items. The shrimp tempura is light and delicate; it
comes with slices of sweet potato and green pepper and an airy mixture of slivered carrots and onions-all deep-fried
in the same ethereal batter. Chicken teriyaki and kari age (Japanese-style fried chicken) are also delicious. In the
future, unusual options of nabemono dishes (one-dish meals that are simmered together in a pot) are promised. Mr.
Sushi even has appetizing desserts (although they are the least authentic part of the menu, since Japanese sweets
usually don’t appeal to Westerners). Try the rum cake or the green-tea ice cream (they’re even good together). Mr.
Sushi is typically Japanese in that it’s small and crowded, but it’s no less attractive, with polished blonde wood
and Japanese artifacts and textiles. And we can’t remember when we’ve seen so many servers waiting on only20 or so
tables. (4860 Belt Line, Addison.385-0168. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner:Mon-Thur & Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat
5:30-11. MC, V, AE, CB. $$)
Via Veneto. In the former quarters of Sergio’s, under the same ownership and phone number, there’s now a
restaurant called Via Veneto. The old Sergio’s certainly needed a facelift, both in its appearance and its food. The
place has been completely redecorated, with touches of red and green against a subtle gray background. But the
changes are more than cosmetic; Via Veneto really is a new restaurant, with a new menu and new ambitions to match.
The new menu has plenty of choices to hold one’s interest, but not so many that the kitchen can’t execute all of
them well. The preliminary evidence indicates that this will be one of the more consistent among the city’s Italian
restaurants. Many of the available antipasto selections are based on shellfish. Perhaps the best is a dish of large
scallops tossed with strips of peppers and slices of black olive, but a combination of smaller scallops with shrimp
and squid and a treatment of clams cooked with fresh spinach and a cream sauce are both fine. Almost all of the
pasta dishes are available either in smaller portions as first courses or as main dishes. It’s hard to choose among
the spinach ravioli in a fresh-tasting tomato pur?e, the tortellini in a richly colored sauce, the fettuccine with
mushrooms and ham and the tagliarini tossed with bits of fresh clams.
The widest selection is among the main dishes. There is the usual profusion of veal preparations, from scaloppine in
various sauces to ravioli rolled up around a filling of spinach and cheese. But Via Veneto also offers plentiful
choices of fowl and fish; the red snapper cardinale we sampled was wonderfully fresh and nicely cooked. Perhaps the
most promising entrées are those from the grill. The thick veal chop, still on its bone, came off the fire at just
the right moment, showing just a blush of pink when sliced.
We have only two serious complaints about Via Veneto. The desserts, except for a tart and a fruity lemon ice, are
mediocre, and the service is less than attentive. On the whole, however, Via Veneto is a most welcome place. Not
since Sergio’s was brand-new and devoted itself almost exclusively to pasta and veal scaloppine in various sauces
has Dallas had a wholly satisfying Italian restaurant. So far, Via Veneto doesn’t quite have the magic of its
predecessor, but it does try to accomplish more, and it succeeds as well as anyplace else in town at the moment.
(The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 742-3872. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat
6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations for dinner only. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
Café Oceana. The look hasn’t changed much since Piaf’s became Caf? Oceana; we still like the spacious, airy
feeling and the crisp green of the plants against white and wood tones. The newest innovation is the icy display of
fish and seafood in the entrance-way (the change is for the better, since we’re not fond of staring eye-to-eye with
denizens of the deep, which didn’t look fresh and attractive enough to overcome our misgivings).
The restaurant is an offshoot of one in Albuquerque. The food isn’t bad, but we wish it were better. The selection
is wide enough to sustain anyone’s interest. Among the array of appetizers, we tried the gumbo (too thick), the
boiled shrimp (too bland) and the oysters Rockefeller (which tasted as though they had been cooked in a simple sauce
of mock hollandaise and frozen spinach).
The main courses showed a bit more talent in the kitchen. The fried fish (especially the catfish) was very
well-prepared, which ought to please old-fashioned types for whom frying is still the way to cook fish. The
broiled red snapper had a silky texture (it flirted with being underdone), but the broiled mackerel seemed a few
days beyond its prime. The barbecued shrimp was not the buttery New Orleans variety but was cooked on a brochette in
a tomatoey barbecue sauce (fine for those who like their seafood on the sweet side). The side dishes varied from
fried potatoes to one of the oddest coleslaws we’ve ever had-dressed in a reddish sauce that smacked of
horseradish.
The only desserts we tried were the pecan pie, which was quite rich and filled with nuts, and the so-called Key lime
pie. The latter turned out to be a gummy chiffon-style creation with little discernible lime taste. Our reaction to
the pies summed up our response to Cafe Oceana: If everything were as good as the better dishes, the restaurant
would be a valuable addition to the mid-priced seafood options in town. But the unevenness of the cooking makes a
meal here a risky business. (4517 Travis. 526-3730. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 a.m.-ll:30 p.m., Sat 5-11:30p.m.
Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Le Peacock’s Maitre D’. One of the most pleasant places for lunch in Addison is this continental restaurant,
which was recently taken over by new management and given new life. The shrimp cocktail was composed of huge
butterflied crustaceans that were perfectly cooked and served over a sauce spiked with fresh horseradish. A rib-eye
was crowned with grilled onions and accompanied by potatoes crisply saut?ed in olive oil; chicken crepes were topped
with a rich Mor-nay sauce. Instead of ordering from the menu, you might want to try the inexpensive buffet, which
sometimes features Burmese dishes from the native country of the proprietress. The food at the Maitre D’ wasmatched
by the cordiality of the family thatowns and runs the restaurant-they soonhave even new customers feeling like
members of the clan. (5290 Belt Line, Addison.991-7570. Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-lOp.m., Fri &Sat 11-11. Closed Sun.
Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Peking China. This restaurant in the middle of Singlesville in the Park Lane area advertr’s itself as the
first place in town to serve ..uJientic Mandarin cuisine. Actually, them ;nu and the cooking are hardly
distin-guisnable from a couple of dozen other Chi-nec places in town. But Peking China (in the .ocation that once
housed China Sea) is a very creditable and friendly neighborhood restaurant. The Mandarin Beef we sampled had an
interesting crinkled texture, with tons of black and red hot peppers and a hint of vinegar in the sauce. The braised
shrimp in a gingery sauce were marvelously soft-the texture that the Chinese call “live.” For dessert, we tried the
sugar-spun apples- here, they are served authentically, with the coating hardened by a short swim in ice water.
(7001 Fair Oaks. 369-2737. Lunch: daily 11-3; dinner: daily 5-11. V, AE. $$)
Uptown Deli. It seems that our appetite for gourmet-to-go is insatiable: Yet another chic little takeout
place-cum-caterer has opened on lower McKinney. Not to sound blas?, but there are the usual oh-so-trendy salads, a
quiche of the day and sandwich fare on croissants. But you’ll find some novel twists as well: hot Mexicana panuchos
(flour tortillas packed with cheese, ham and stick-to-the-ribs refritos) and a special “San Francisco-style”
(whatever that is) entrée each day. The sweets reflect the same care and quality as everything else; we especially
like the rich, thick cheesecake. But why, oh why, do they have to close at 3 p. m.? (2404 McKinney. 871-7120.
Mon-Fri 10a.m.-3 p.m. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)
Café da Vinci. Oh, Leonardo, where are you? This Fort Worth restaurant could use a shot of your artistic
ability in the food department, which is, in a word, uninspired. But, on the other hand, the crew here seems to be
trying hard to please, and there are few nice restaurants on this edge of Meadow-brook, which accounts for the full
parking lot on most nights. We found the veal to be only so-so, but the homemade pasta appetizer did show signs of
untapped creativity in the kitchen. Don’t expect too much, and you won’t be disappointed. (5504 Brent-wood Stair.
(817) 496-5183. Lunch: daily 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.
These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid
preferential treatment. Inclusion In this directory has nothing to do with paid advertising.
The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise.
They indicate a general price range.
$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.
$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.
$$$ Expensive. Expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal (excluding wine and cocktails).
$$$$ Very expensive.
“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will accept reservations.
Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit
cards” indicates that all five are accepted.
indicates a restaurant located on or north of LBJ Freeway.
BARBECUE
Bob Willy’s Dinner House. This antique shop on theWest Piano plains used to serve French food. Now it offers
barbecue, which seems more appropriate. The ribshere are wonderfully meaty and tender; the brisket issucculent, and
the sausage and ham are also good.The potato salad is serious stuff-the pickles are sour,and there is hardly a hint
of sweetness. The slaw iscreamy, and the beans are honest, plain pintos. Evendessert (pecan pie) is worth the
calories. (1933 Preston. Piano. 985-0624. Breakfast: daily 6-11; lunch:daily 11-2:30: dinner: Thur-Sat 5:30-8:30.
No creditcards. $$)
Pies’ Barbecue. Mr. Pies started his catering business in 1931, and except for a little work that he’s done
for Mobil Oil on the side, he’s been turning out barbecue ever since. In his recently converted Dairy Queen, Ples
and his wife prepare delectable ribs, sliced beef and sausage, and they serve it cafeteria-style with all the
trimmings: turnip greens, beans, corn on the cob, corn bread and a slab of sweet potato pie that is poetry en croute
(1212WKiest. 371-5533. Mon-Thur 11 am-8 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-9 pm. No credit cards. $)
D REVISITS
Sallh’s Bar-B-Que. This rustic restaurant on the Ad-dison strip is a popular lunch spot for North
Dallasworkers because it serves hearty, home-style meals.Salih’s offers plates of mild barbecued beef, pork,chicken
or sausage, as well as sandwiches. Both typesof entrees are served with surprisingly good vegetables(including green
beans, french fries, cabbage, pintobeans and -our favorite – potato salad), all servedbuffet-style. And the friendly
service makes the placeseem even warmer. (4801 Belt Line, Addison.387-2900 Mon-Sat 11 am-8:30 pm. Closed Sun.
Nocredit cards. $)
BREAKFAST
The Hungry Jockey. If you’re a people-watcher and you’re looking for a nice, comfortable spot to have a good,
rib-stickin’ breakfast, this is the place for you. The Hungry Jockey is a North Dallas institution – a haven for
high-powered business breakfasters and genuine Levi’s-clad cowboys. Most of the food is hearty (although we’ve had
some bad luck with dried-up bacon). The blueberry pancakes and the Canadian bacon are top-notch. Grab a cup of fresh
coffee, then sit back and enjoy a taste of a real diner, North Dallas-style. (1417 Preston Forest Square
661-0134 Mon-Sat6:30am-2 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
EUROPEAN
Arjon’s. Now under new management and with a new chef, this place is pretty much what it always has been: a
good, solid, unremarkable continental restaurant. Our only real disappointment came early in the meal with a
feuillete of sweetbreads for which you needed an ax to chop through the pastry. Otherwise, we enjoyed the meal –
especially the Caesar salad (which some diners might have found too garlicky), the salmon with pink peppercorns and
the dense chocolate mousse. The atmosphere is friendly, but the blare of the jazz club upstairs can be oppressive.
(The Corner Shopping Center, 9840 N Central Expwy. 691-1177 Sun-Thur 6-11 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11:30 pm. Reservations
recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Arthur’s. The atmosphere, food and service here almost always provide a pleasant dining experience. Among the
fine array of appetizers offered, the salmon and the escargots are excellent. But if you’re not in the mood to
overeat, you could easily skip them and begin with a salad (portions here are quite large). The Arthur’s special
salad, which is big enough for two people, contains several types of leafy lettuce combined with fresh shrimp,
avocados, hearts of palm and artichokes, all covered with a light, creamy dressing. The lobster bisque is a nice
starter, too, although at times it has been a little too tomatoey. The entrees include a tremendous stuffed beef
filet chock-full of crab meat that’s covered in a beefy sauce and served over wild rice. The fettuccine with lobster
is another winner, with lots of lobster and just enough rich, creamy sauce. Although a number of tasty desserts are
offered (such as a flaky, slightly sweet tart), go for the chocolate cake. It’s sinfully rich, but it’s worth the
remorse. (Campbell Centre. 8350 N Central Expwy 361-8833 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Fri 6-11. Sat 6
pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)
Blom’t. This plush hotel dining room at the Galleria’s mam entrance is competing for a lot of superlatives,
including that of having the most adventuresome chef. The interesting new combinations usually work well, but they
sometimes go overboard, as in the case of our recent meal. If we hadn’t ordered cautiously, all fourcourses could
have been adorned with fresh raspberries (including the salad, where they perched atop a pileof endive). Blom’s is
also vying for loveliest presentationof dishes (they appeal to the eye as richly as to thepalate) and for the most
expensive restaurant – pricesare right up there, especially if you order the lobster withvegetables in a rich cream
sauce and other such delicacies. We found the food intriguing; the service, alternately a bit coy and a bit
inattentive. (Weslin Hotel,13340 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9494. Dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30; Sun brunch: 10:30-2:30.
Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)
Café America. After a long wait and a struggle tosqueeze into the tiny space allotted our miniature table,we
didn’t think we were going to be very fond of CafeAmerica. But our waitress was so cordial and sawy thatwe were soon
appeased, and the food turned out to bemostly excellent. The hamburger was as big as abaseball and was perfectly
grilled, and the waitress’recommendation that the chicken and broccoli dishwas the best offering on the “light
foods” side of themenu was right on target. Both desserts we tried wereparadise for chocoholics; the fudge pie beat
out themousse for temptation-of-the-month honors, but not bymuch. (Bloommgdale’s, Valley View Center,
13320Montfort. 450-2290 Mon-Sat 11 am-4 pm & 5-8 pm. AE,Bloomingdale’s; personal checks accepted. $$)
Café Capri. As soon as we entered this small, softly litEuropean-style dining room after a long workday,
webegan to relax. To start our meal, we sampled fresh,chilled oysters on the half shell and a beautifully garnished
pat? accompanied by small slices of Frenchbread. For our entr?es, we chose lamb chops and aveal dish with scallops
The lamb, though a tad moredone than we had ordered it, was tender, juicy andflavorful; and the veal was thinly
sliced, breaded andcovered with scallops in a cream sauce. But the crowning glory of our evening came after dinner
in the formof a very light but rich chocolate soufflé sprinkled withpowdered sugar and a flaming liqueur concoction
deftly prepared by our charming waiter- By then, our busyday had become a dim memory. (15107 Addison Roadnear
Belt Line. 960-8686. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30;dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri& Sat 5:30-11. Reservations
recommended. All credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Caf? Royal. At intervals during this year, Cafe Royal is putting aside its regular dinner menu and playing
host to distinguished chefs from famous European hotel restaurants. Call to inquire – you may find an inexpensive
substitute for a jaunt to Paris, Madrid or Vienna. Ifs hard to say what this promotion will do to the standards of
Cafe Royal when only the home team is in town. In any case, the regular staff will prepare lunch as usual, with
occasional specials created by the visiting stars. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri
11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards.
$$$$)
Calluaud. A meal at what has become Dallas’ establishment French restaurant is always an event. The dining
room is decked with rases; the diners, with their best attire. Owner/chef Guy Calluaud always keeps some old
favorites (such as the lamb with tarragon sauce) on the menu, but he occasionally bursts forth with inspiration and
innovation. The salad with smoked fish is brilliant with a gingery dressing, and the hazelnut souffle dazzles as
well as satisfies. This is still one of the top restaurants in Dallas. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri
11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur6-10, Fri & Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties
required. MC, V, AE. $$$$)
D REVISITS
Ceret. Francophiles continue to rally around what may be the one true French bistro (translation: solid
French cooking at moderate prices) in town, but we find that the “haute-y air here can be stifling. Nevertheless,
the food is mostly of the highest quality, and for $20 for four courses, who’s complaining? Occasionally, we have
hit a sour note: The salmon mousse appetizer, for instance, had an unpleasantly pasty consistency and a canned
taste. A special, calamari (squid), however, was meltingly tender and sauced to perfection. Soups are generally
excellent – we love the mussel soup and the potage aux champignon (a soup du jour), and the oxtail soup is hearty
without being heavy. All the seafood entrees are honest and well-prepared, but the rib-eye steak, our waiter warned
us, “is not much better than you would get at Cork & Cleaver,” so beware. Two huge scoops of homemade sorbet or the
chefs puff pastry with vanilla sauce top off a meal handsomely. (703 McKinney. 720-0297 Lunch: Mon-Fn 11:30-2:30;
dinner: Mon-Fri6:30-10:30, Sat6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Clair de Lune. This attractive bistro in the corner of the Quadrangle is a fine place for light fare,
especially when the weather is warm and you can sit outdoors in the patio area. But when chilly winds blow and you
want to come inside for more serious eating, Clair de Lune disappoints. On our last visit, everything -soup,
appetizer, salad, entrée, dessert -was under par. We were especially distressed by a special of the day that was
purported to be duck in a saffron sauce but which proved to be unidentifiable, tough slices of meat in a thick,
tasteless gravy. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 871 -2288. Mon- Thur 9 am-12:30 am, Fri & Sat 9 am-2 am, Sun 11-11.
All credit cards. $$)
Exposure. From the moment you enter this restaurant/photo gallery, you’ll know you’re in the presence of
serious chic. But Exposure is more than just trendy; it’s a serious restaurant that offers some remarkable food. The
appetizer list is especially varied, and the main dishes offer some novel (though not outrageous) inventions. The
service was not quite as remarkable as the food, however – maybe the slow tempo is designed to let all the beautiful
people get a good long look at one another. (4516McKinney. 528-0210. Mon-Sat 4 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. All credit
cards. $$$)
Ewald’s. The steadfast Ewald is surely one of the lowest-profile chefs on the local dining scene, but he’s
also one of the best. The fact that his name is not bandied about in the press is of little consequence to his
dedicated flock, which manages to consistently fill his long-established restaurant. They come for Ewald’s rich
European dishes and his fine art of preparation (an art that can be viewed through a wide window at the rear of the
restaurant). We started with the unusual-and unusually good – fried parsley appetizer (share one; the portions are a
little larger than you may expect.) Then we moved on to a divine fresh snapper (saut?ed and sauced with a blend of
duxelles and b?arnaise) and superb beef tournedos that were cooked to pink perfection and topped with delicious
artichokes. (5415 W LoversLane. 357-1622. Mon-Fri6-10:30pm, Sat6-11 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit
cards. $$$)
Francisco’s. This charming bistro in a house off Cedar Springs has only the most classic recipes on its menu.
It executes them capably, too, with hits outnumbering misses two to one. We enjoyed the shrimp appetizer in a creamy
mushroom sauce much more than the alternative (Delice du Chef), in which shrimp was mixed with crab and snails in a
tomatoey sauce. The veal Oscar was perfectly done, with fresh asparagus and a subtle hollandaise; but the chicken in
a rather vinegary wine sauce was less appealing. Both desserts we tried, the chocolate mousse cake and the cr?me
caramel, were winners. (2917 Fairmount. 749-0906. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun.
Reservations recommended; required on Sat. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
Frenchy Cat?. The surroundings are very informal in this delicatessen/lunch spot, and the food can be very
good. In search of a hot lunch on our last visit, we tried the lasagna and found it rich and slightly sweet. A
selection of pat?s can also make a satisfying meal: The truffle pat?s are smooth and buttery; the pepper paté,
coarser and only a little spicy. If you want to splurge on dessert, the chocolate mousse (flavored with orange and
topped with whipped cream and cocoa) is a good bet. But be forewarned: The cost – not to mention the calories-can
begin to mount quickly. (5940 Royal Lane. 369-1235 Mon 11 am-3pm. Tue-Fri 11 am- 7 pm, Sat 11 am-5 pm. Closed
Sun. MC, V. $)
Jean Claude. Jean Claude Prevot has abandoned his kitchen in order to spend his time greeting guests (and
appearing as a guest himself on Julia Child’s new PBS show). But the food at his restaurant doesn’t seem to be
suffering. We aren’t sure of the wisdom of coating scallops with a mustard sauce, but everything else on our last
visit was heavenly: a sweetbread pate with crunchy vegetables, lamb showered with fresh herbs and accompanied with a
little ball of lamb stuffing, golden sea bass in a tomato and hollandaise sauce, a perfectly caramelized upside-down
apple tart and a cloudlike chocolate souffle. Over the years, this restaurant has become more confidently French
(salads are now served after the main dish as a matter of course) and more confidently wonderful. (2404 Cedar
Springs. 748-6619. Tue-Satsealingsal6&9pm. ClosedSun& Mon. Reservations required. MC, V. AE, DC. $$$$)
Kosta’s. With so few Greek restaurants in town, perhaps it’s churlish to hope that Kosta’s. our old standby,
would do something besides hold its own over the years. We still swear by the juicy souflaki and the creamy,
aromatic moussaka. which may be that mysterious ambrosia so loved by the Greek gods. But we still swear at
the service, which on our last visit fell to new lows: The table was set (including putting on the tablecloth)
while we were at the table. It’s quite a trick to watch. Such disorganization is Greek to us, but you can bet
your last dolma that we’ll be back for more. This far from Olympus, we’ll take what we can get. (2755 Bach-man.
351-4592. Mon-Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Laurel’s. This penthouse restaurant appeals mightily to the eye. The view is breathtaking, the decor is
elegant, and the presentation of each dish is elaboratelyimaginative. The nouvelle-type food may not taste quiteas
good as it looks, but it is excellent nonetheless. Theoysters were beautifully poached, and the lamb wascooked to
order, but neither of the sauces on the disheswas memorable. The prices, however, are a bit lowerhere than at most
restaurants of comparable ambition.(Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit 385-3000.Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed
Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
La Vlellle Varsovle (The Old Warsaw). It had been a while since wed dined at this doyenne of Dallas
French restaurants, and we entered somewhat skep-teal of some of the claims that have been made for it. But we must
admit that this really is one of the best restaurants in town. Every dish we had was flawless: The oysters
baked in two different sauces and the salmon in puff pastry were fabulous; the Caesar salad was impeccable; the
entrees of sweetbreads and snapper were magnificently cooked. Even the desserts were remarkable-we sampled an airy
feuillete filled with fruit and surrounded with raspberry sauce and a perfect Grand Marnier souffle. The only thing
the Old Warsaw needs to become a truly great restaurant is a sense of proprietary creation: inventive dishes it can
call its own. (2610Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur6-10:30pm, Fri& Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required. All
credit cards. $$$$)
Le Boul’ Mlch. We’ll hesitantly continue to recommend dinner at this elegant old house across the street from
the Quadrangle, despite the fact that on our last visit we experienced some unforgivably absent-minded service and
less-than-spectacular food. (Even so, it gave us plenty of time to munch soft, hot bread, sip wine and enjoy the
view through the large windows that line the front of the restaurant). The menu is short but varied, and specials
are offered every evening. The pea soup has a rich, bacony flavor, and the spinach salad had much more than the
obligatory sprinkle of bacon and egg. One of the specials, sole meuniere, came lightly breaded, (though a tad soggy)
in white sauce; and the steak au poivre was likewise drenched in sauce, although the meat itself was good. The
chocolate-chip cheesecake isn’t worth the calories. (2704 Worthington. 826-0660 Mon- Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri &
Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$$)
Lechner’s Brass Bull. The food at this German restaurant hidden away in the Regent Hotel can be excellent.
Everything from the goulash soup (which had a distinctive flavor and lots of meat) to the desserts (carrot cake,
chocolate mousse and apple strudel) showed care in the kitchen. Among the main courses, we especially liked the
smoked pork chop, which had a rich, hamlike taste. The wiener schnitzel was crisp and delicate; the bratwurst, pale
and lightly seasoned. Even the seafood was good, with a hearty, rather than sophisticated, style. All the German
dishes came with a spicy, tart potato salad (although some lacked the promised sauerkraut). The decor is in a
nondescript hotel style that doesn’t do much for the food, but we would have been happy enough if the service hadn’t
been lacking as well. Our waiter was snappish, and the meal was absurdly slow, with long waits at every point. We
were sorry to see a potentially excellent meal made memorable for all the wrong reasons. (1241 W Mockingbird.
630-7000. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-11 pm.Sat&Sun 5:30-11 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
Le Train Bleu. In this authentic re-creation of an old-fashioned French dining car. crisp white linen
tablecloths grace the tables and emerald-green plush greets the eye everywhere. In keeping with the rather elegant
atmosphere, the food is mostly French and of a very respectable quality. Grilled dishes such as steak or lamb come
off well, and even more elaborate creations such as scallops in a rich sauce succeed here. But the most exciting
offerings are the desserts. The chocolate cake known as “La Reine de Saba” (“The Queen of Sheba”) is creamy-textured
and sweet, and the Grand Marnier cr?me brul?e with a crunchy sugar coating is extraordinary. But the service can be
impossibly slow. (Bloomingdale’s. Valley View Center, 13320 Montfort. 450-2290. Lunch: Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm;
dinner: Mon-Sat 6-8 pm. AE, Bloomingdale’s; personal checks accepted. $$$)
D REVISITS
Little Gus’. By now, most of us know that Little Gus’ is really two restaurants-hamburger heaven at noon,
Greek delight at night. Somehow, the Greek cuisine here just keeps getting better, and that even goes for the
dolmas, which are always heavy with herbs and seasonings and are large enough to serve as a meal. The Greek
standard, moussaka, is cooked better here than anywhere in the city; with layers of eggplant and ground beef in
cream sauce, the dish avoids the cloying sweetness found elsewhere. Wine, candlelight and Greek music top off a
pleasant evening. (1916 Greenville. 826-4910. Dinner: Mon- Thur 6-9 pm, Fri & Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit
cards; personal checks accepted. $$)
D REVISITS
Manhattan. There’s nothing terribly surprising when you enter Manhattan, located in a North Dallas strip
shopping center. Unlike some other posh area restaurants, the inside has fairly nondescript decor that looks sort of
thrown together at the last minute. But the food, fortunately, is better than the decor. The menu is extensive; the
veal and shrimp are especially good. And the vegetables seem to be fresh and well-cooked. But the desserts, for the
most part, aren’t worth the calories. (1482 Preston Forest Square. 385-8221 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: daily
5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
The Mansion. It seems that the Mansion has finally arrived as a purveyor of excellent American nouvelle
cuisine. Previously, the elegant surroundings had to carry the whole show, but now the fine food is doing its part,
too. At a recent lunch, we found the John Dory on soya pasta with scallions to be a marvelous seafood special. From
the regular menu, shrimp with tiny slivers of zucchini basked in a sauce that was subtle and appealing. We couldn’t
be happier that this place is at last living up to its press. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room
(jackets and ties required, except at brunch) – lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:15; brunch: Sat noon-2:15; Sun 11-2:15;
dinner: Mon-Thur6-10, Fri-Sun 6-10:30; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Promenade Room –
breakfast: daily 7-10:30 am; lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30. Reservations. All credit cards.
$$$$)
Mr. Peppe. This is a European’s European restaurant: not lavishly decorated, not terribly high-priced, but
consistently right on target. The escargots in garlic herb butter were tender, though a bit grainy. The crab-stuffed
artichoke bottom, however, was one of the best cold appetizers we’ve sampled in a while. Soup or salad comes with
every entrée, and the cream of mushroom soup is a buttery delight, chock-full of mushrooms and onions. The beef
Wellington is superb, with a flaky crust, tender beef and a rich brown sauce. The veal in lemon butter is a simple
masterpiece, and delicate seafood offerings such as lobster tails with drawn butter are cooked to perfection. An
unusual cantaloupe sherbet is a perfect ending. (5617 W Lovers Lane. 352-5976. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. MC,
V, AE. DC. $$$)
The Prospect Grill. We wanted to thoroughly enjoy our time spent in the chic, mellow atmosphere of this
Lowest Greenville Avenue restaurant; unfortunately, we found that there are still a few kinks in the operation.
Service is generally good, but it tends to be haphazard. And although a fairly limited menu is supposed to be
supplemented by a list of daily specials, at least one specialty in each category (appetizer, entrée, dessert) was
unavailable very early in the evening when we visited. The good news is that the food is extremely well-prepared. If
you’re in the mood for something grilled, go for the vegetable brochette or the fresh seafood brochette. The grilled
entrées include sirloin burger, chicken breast, fresh shrimp, swordfish or tenderloin steak – all cooked over
mesquite wood, which lends a rich, smoky flavor to the meat. Several light salads are offered, as well as homemade
french fries (fried with onions and served with a tangy tomato sauce for dipping). A vegetable of the day (generally
cooked to a crisp perfection) is also offered with each dish. (2100 Greenville. 828-2131. Daily 11 am-2 am. AE.
$$)
The Pyramid Room. Alas, what a fall is here. The once-proud monarch of fine Dallas restaurants seems to have
hit bottom. On our most recent visit, the scallops had picked up a metallic taste from the serving dish, and the red
snapper was dreary. We expected the waiter to ask us why we sent it back barely sampled, but he wasn’t even curious.
Perhaps he knew all too well the problems the restaurant was having. The rich desserts kept us from leaving hungry,
but they didn’t keep us from going away depressed at the restaurant’s decline. (FairmontHotel. RossatAkard.
748-7258. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)
D REVISITS
Rolf’s. Since it opened a year ago, Rolfs has established itself as a major presence among Dallas
restaurants. The tone is formal without being forbidding, and the food is sophisticated and delicate without
betraying its hearty German roots. Even a simple dish like consommé with liver dumplings is memorable, not to
mention such complex creations as the appetizer of tiny shrimp and scallops marinated with fresh dill and dill seeds
and flecked with tiny bits of tomato and mushroom. Few restaurants treat pork as royally as Rolfs, with its rolled
roast stuffed with sauerkraut and herbs. The only disappointment on our last visit was the vaunted apple strudel (it
was mushy from being reheated and was doused with too much sauce), but the ethereal cheesecake more than compensated
for it. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. Suite 117. 696-1933. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur
5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5 30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Routh Street Café. With its glossy salmonand-pearl-gray interior. Routh Street Café looks combines
excitement and comfort. A number of lighter dishes are available in the anteroom by the bar, but the main restaurant
offers five courses at a fixed price of $35. The concept is American nouvelle. Main courses include baby Coho
salmon, mesquite-grilled veal or lamb and occasional game choices such as venison. The meats are cooked expertly,
but we found the sauces a trifle un-derseasoned. (3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Mon-Sat6-10:30pm.
Lounge: Mon-Fri 4:30 pm-2 am, Sat 6 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE.
FAR EAST
Bamboo Pavilion. This northern outpost of Szechuan Pavilion drew raves when it opened, and some of the chefs
specialties are very appealing. Panda’s Prawns, for instance, is an unusual treatment of huge, breaded and
deep-fried shrimp tossed with julienne vegetables in a delicately sweet sauce and sprinkled with sesame seeds. But
the items on the back pages of the menu don’t seem to receive as much care. The Orange Flavor Beef was a rather
dismal affair-cut unattractively and stir-fried too slowly-and the resulting texture was almost like strips of
boiled beef. Bamboo Pavilion has a long way to go before it deserves its reputation as one of the city’s leading
Chinese restaurants. (Promenade Center, Suite 1790, Belt Line at Coit, Richardson.680-0599. Mon-Thur 11:30
am-10:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
China North. The novelty of this new spot on the west end of the Addison strip is its Mongolian fire pit. A
long buffet presents thinly sliced raw meats, vegetables and sauces. The diner heaps these in a bowl and takes them
to a window, behind which a chef quickly cooks them on a massive cast-iron griddle. This is also one of the few
restaurants in town that will serve Peking duck on request. It will set you back $18, but it can be a great bargain
when it’s part of a house dinner. And the service is one of the restaurant’s biggest assets. (4021 Belt Line,
Addison. 788-1811. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Chu’s. Friends told us that Chu’s, one of the first restaurants to open on the Addison strip some years ago.
is now serving some of the best Canton-style Chinese food in town. They were right. Chu’s soups had a rich, homemade
taste, and the chicken with pecans had a subtlety and depth that no one could ever call bland. The spicy dishes,
such as the double-cooked pork Szechuan style, were a bit perfunctory, though. Order the Cantonese dishes and
prepare for a treat. (15080 Beltway, Addison. 387-1776. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 4:30-10. All
credit cards. $$)
The Forbidden City. Is The Forbidden City the most overrated Chinese restaurant in town? We’ve never had a
really bad dish here, mind you. although we could complain that our service has been a bit offhand. But we’ve
never had a really exciting dish, either. Our Hunan-style smoked ham had a lavish quantity of meat, but the sauce
had little flavor other than salt. The Mongolian beef was similarly bland. If fresh, dependable but ultimately
boring Chinese food satisfies you, you may be happier at The Forbidden City than we were. (5290 Belt Line, Suite
144. 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)
La Pagode. Even for those familiar with Oriental cooking, the cuisine at this new Vietnamese restaurant will
seem exotic indeed. The most interesting things here come in mysterious edible packages: There are the imperial
rolls, the excellent won ton found in some of the soups, the wonderful Vietnamese crêpes and “pressed rice,” a
soft, pancakelike doily in which meat and vegetables are wrapped. The fillings come in great variety, too, and
include a wonderful barbecued pork. All these items come garnished with an endless array of fresh herbs. (4302
Bryan. 821-4542. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
D REVISITS
Peking Szechuan. The food and service here more than make up for the odd location and lack of decor. The
hospitable, knowledgeable waitresses push several of the house specialties – and they clearly know what the kitchen
does well. The Seafood Delight was a delicately cooked assortment of brightly colored vegetables amid shrimp and
scallops. The beef with orange peel had a wonderfully crunchy coating under the hot, sweet sauce. We intend to go
back and test the waitress’s contention that the chef can cook the whole repertory of Chinese dishes just as well.
(2560 W Northwest Hwy. 353-0129. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fn-Sun 11:30-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$)
Royal China. This cozy neighborhood restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices and a genial host, Buck
Kao, who will greet you by name after one or two visits. For a mouthwatering beginning, try the fried meat dumplings
with ginger sauce. Follow up with hot and sour soup (the name means what it says), a spicy combination of bean curd,
black mushrooms, sesame oil and beef. For entrees, you can’t improve upon Dry Stirred Beef, but if you want to go
the chicken or fish route, kung po chicken (with peanuts, green pepper, water chestnuts, celery and mushrooms) and
royal prawns (served in a sweet sauce with peas and onions) are reliable choices. (Preston Royal Shopping Center,
Suite201. 361-1771. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-10. MC, AE, DC.)
Royal Panda. This new Chinese restaurant in the location of the defunct Hunan Pavilion offers excellent
renditions of the Mandarin and Szechuan dishes that have become standard on menus all over town. The lamb
Hunan-style boasted precisely cut small chunks of meat sautéed nicely amid the scallions. The shrimp and pork
Szechuan style had a peppery bite to it, and the Crispy Duck lived up to its name. The service is unusually friendly
and helpful, placing Royal Panda above most of its competition. (The Comer Shopping Center. 8021 Walnut Hill at
Central Expwy. 363-3858. Sun-Thur 11 am-4 am. Fri & Sat 11 am-6 am. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Sakura. In Japanese, Sakura means ’cherry blossom.’ Ironically, cherry blossoms are about the only Japanese
element not included in this restaurant’s authentic setting. Until recently. Sakura also offered Chinese and Korean
dishes; now the restaurant apparently is concentrating on what it knows best. On a recent visit, we sampled the
gyoza (fried, meat-filled dumplings), which were a tad greasy but were still among the best in town. The highlight
of our meal was the Yose Nabe: fish, shrimp and octopus cooked with vegetables and tofu in broth. Also noteworthy
was the chicken teriyaki, which had just the right touch of sweetness. And we liked the sauces that accompanied the
gyoza and tempura; both were understated, as they should be. The service was exemplary – the kind that every
restaurant should (but often doesn’t) have. (7402 Greenville. 361 -9282. Mon- Thur & Sun 5:30-11 pm, Fri & Sat
5:30 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended on weekends. All credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Sawatdee. Thai one on at this place, one of Dallas’ most attractive Asian restaurants. The hot dishes are
plenty fiery, but otherwise the tastes here seem toned down in comparison to those of Sawatdee’s competitors. We did
have several first-rate novelties on our last visit. The Sawatdee Oyster, for instance, contrasts the crunch of the
lacy batter around the oysters with the crunch of bean sprouts, and the Panang Beef is served in a sauce heady with
the flavor of lime leaves. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: daily 5-10:30.
All credit cards $$)
Sate House. Ayam panggang priangan. anyone? For those born west of Indonesia, that means barbecued chicken
marinated with soy sauce. Served with soft fried noodles and steamed rice, it’s one of several examples of
“Indonesian home cooking” found here. Most entrées are cooked sate style (on a skewer); expect each bite to teach
you something about a delightful foreign cuisine. Gadc-gado, for instance, is a vegetab lesalad with a heavy peanut
sauce dressing, sprinkled with tiny bits of shrimp. Some people in our party loved it; the other half passed it up.
But even cautious diners should like soto, a thick, soupy concoction of chicken with bean thread and bean sprouts.
The menu here is full of tastes both subtly seductive and brassily intrusive; come to learn and enjoy.
(12125Abrams atLBJ Frwy, Suite 108. 680-2803 Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Tue-Sat 5-10; Sun brunch:
11:30-3. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)
Shangri-La. Despite the name, this is no newly discovered hidden paradise but a very pleasant (if
unremarkable) new Chinese restaurant in far Far North Dallas that extends the possibility of good Oriental
food farther north of town than ever before The San Shien soup was a satisfying beginning, with tender shrimp and
meat (strips of beef substituted for the usual ham) as well as crisp vegetables. The fried dumplings were excellent;
the egg rolls, crisply fried but filled too heavily with cabbage instead of more expensive things. All the main
dishes were tasty, too. The spicy Szechuan ones (including pork in garlic sauce and hot and spicy shrimp) had
interesting sour -rather than sweet-overtones. (17194 Preston at Campbell, Suite 115. 380-1988 Daily 11 am-10 pm.
All credit cards. $$)
Siam Orchid. When a new owner took over Siam (the defunct Thai restaurant that had been one of the top Asian
restaurants in town for a long time), he kept the menu and some of the staff intact. But we still detect some
changes: The service seems to be a bit more efficient and helpful, and the food is still good, though not quite as
exciting as before. Some of our old favorites, such as the sliced beef salad and pud Thai (a delicious,
unpretentious dish of noodles sauced with sprouts, shrimp and ground peanuts), somehow taste earthier. And the pork
sate (strips of meat broiled on a skewer) has a softer, almost mealy texture. Siam Orchid is a very fine restaurant,
but with so many new Thai places in town, it’s not the place of pilgrimage its predecessor was. (1730 W
Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. All credit
cards. $$$)
Szechuan Pavilion. The prices and pretensions are relatively modest here, and the food is very tasty,
although not particularly memorable. The Orange Beef and the shrimp in garlic sauce were both plenty spicy for all
but the most masochistic hot-pepper lovers. The Emperor Chicken arrived in a nest of fried potatoes surrounded by a
field of bright green broccoli, but the complexity of the dish was more for the eye than for the palate, inside, we
found a standard combination of chicken and vegetables. (8409 Preston in Preston Center. 368-4303. Mon-Thur 11:30
am-2:30 pm & 4:30-10 pm, Fri 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 4:30-10:30 pm. Sat noon-10:30 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards.
$$)
Taiwan. This ranks as one of the top Chinese restaurants in town as much for its elegantly appointed
surroundings and careful service as for its excellent food. The cold appetizer plate – with sliced beef, smoked fish
and chicken slivers in a spicy sauce-is an authentic way to begin a Chinese meal. Seafood and vegetables receive
especially nice treatments here, and the smoked duck is exceptional. (4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. Sun-Thur
11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11am-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. Alt credit cards. $$)
Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. The magisterial Chinese chef, who flies in from Houston each week to check on his
Dallas location, seems to be doing a good job of keeping up quality long-distance. Uncle Tai’s Beef is the single
most virtuosic Chinese dish around; the surface of the meat, after a complex series of soakings and cookings, boasts
a texture as rich as a medieval tapestry. All the food is likely to be excellent, but the total dining experience is
rather austere in this crowded nook high above the Galleria’s ice skating rink. And just try to dissuade your waiter
from dividing up the portions and taking away the service plates – all the communication barriers descend with the
request. (The Gallena, Suite 3370, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm.
Closed Sun. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)
GOURMET CARRYOUT
Au Bon Gout. The translation, for all you non-French-speaking boors, is “in good taste,” and this place is
indeed. A stop here on the way home is a guaranteed feast in full culinary regalia. Christian Gerber, formerly the
chef at the Old Warsaw, is a serious French caterer. It’s painful to choose from the many offerings: One night we
faced an array that included veal with morels, chicken in green peppercorn sauce, coq au vin, rabbit in mustard
sauce, sliced venison with cranberries and apples, roast chicken and beef tenderloin. All of it was freshly prepared
and packaged per order in an easily reheatable tin. The veal was divine, but the chicken in green peppercorns was
not. Escargots swimming in herbed garlic butter were a bargain at 75 cents a pop. Tiny French green beans in a cold
vinaigrette and a tart potato salad were fine accompaniments, as was the chocolate mousse, a supreme dessert.
(4424 Lovers Lane. 369-3526. Mon-Sat 10 am-6 pm. All credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)
Marty’s. Our dream is to be able to afford to do all of our grocery shopping at this
granddaddy-of-’em-all gourmet carryout shop. Specialty foods from around the world are offered here: scores of
imported cheeses, homemade pates and carryout entrees such as duckling, pasta (the tortellini is superb), aged
meats, smoked meats and a variety of French specialties. The desserts (mostly pastries) are scrumptious; the
cheesecake (which comes in a variety of flavors) is extra special. Marty’s is the perfect place to pick up
everything – appetizers, entrees, desserts, coffee and wine-and then take it all home and pretend you made it
yourself. (3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, Marty’s charge. $$)
Taste & Take. Alas, it’s easier to taste than to take at this cheerful country spot. Did you ever try to pry
a menu out of Grandma? “Hello, could you tell me what entrees you have for takeout tonight?” “Uh, let’s see, we have
some veal lasagna. Oops, no lasagna. Well, how about chicken breasts with mushrooms in wine?” “Great.” “Uh-oh, we
only have one left.” And so on. But that’s the bad news. The good news is that what finally comes your way will be
tasty indeed. Our favorites: flour tortilla chips with chili con queso, herbed shrimp, pumpkin cheesecake and
buttermilk white bread. Our complaint: The portions of the frozen entrees are a tad skimpy for the price. (4509
Greenville. 691-5161 Mon-Fri fl am-6 pm, Sat 11 am-3 pm. MC, V, AE; personal checks accepted. $$)
INDIAN
O REVISITS
Kebab ’N’ Kurry. You cant buy better Indian food than the last dinner we had here. The flaky fried-pastry
appetizers (samosas) filled with meat and peas and pakoras of cauliflower and eggplant were light and delicate. The
main dishes balanced beautifully: boti kebab (lamb) that was fork-tender, korma (chicken) drenched in cream and
fresh coriander, eggplant and potatoes in a mild curry sauce. The Indian desserts were rich and flavorful, too. This
place is a leading candidate for the best meal bargain in the city. (401 N Central Expwy. Suite 300. Richardson,
231-5556; 220 Walnut Hill Lane, 350-6466 Lunch: daily 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri&Sat5:30-10:30;brunch:Sat &
Sun 11:30-2:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $)
Sahib. When it opened, Sahib was one of Dallas’ best Asian restaurants, but it underwent something of a slump
last year. New management has brought it up. although ifs not quite yet at its former level of quality. The chicken
and other items cooked in the tandoor were moist and flavorful: neither underdone, as we sometimes had suffered
through before, nor dried out. But the sauced dishes and vegetable curries didn’t seem as distinctively spiced as
before. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sat & Sun 11.30-2:45; dinner:
daily 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$)
ITALIAN
AIessio’s. The service here is a little slow but very friendly, and the atmosphere lends itself well to long
evening meals and another bottle of wine. The list of specials is tempting; we tried the linguini pescatore (a
colorful mix of mussels, shrimp, scallops and snow-crab claws served with a sauce that would be worth eating alone
with a spoon). The sole is less rich: It’s sautéed in lemon butter and topped with mushrooms and baby shrimp in a
white wine sauce. Alessio’s also offers an impressive list of veal dishes. (4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Dinner: Sun
&Mon 6-10 pm, Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
Adriano’s. A pizza isn’t just a pizza anymore. The owners of Adriano’s have seen to it that just about
anything – from escargots, chicken, shrimp and crab to more ordinary toppings such as pepperoni and ricotta
dcheese-make tor a proper pizza pie An excellent roast chicken and a creamy fettuccme Alfredo are also available for
non-pizza lovers. The atmosphere is cool and breezy; the service, laid-back and friendly. (The Quadrangle, 2800
Routh. 871-2262 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6 pm-2 am, Sun 4-8. MC, V, AE $)
Ciaol The pink and blue neon sign in the circular window of this small restaurant hints at its hi-tech
interior, but inside, you’ll find the place surprisingly warm and intimate. Although a few delicious-sounding pasta
and veal dishes are listed as dinner specials, we opted for the Ciao specialty we’d heard friends rave about: pizza.
We tried one with Italian sausage and crushed red peppers and another with thinly sliced onions and black olives,
and we found both to be exceptionally good. But our personable waitress clued us in on our favorite version: pizza
topped with spinach sautéed in garlic butter Ciao for now, but we’ll be back. (3921 -B Cedar Springs. 521-0110.
Daily noon-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)
Cunze’s. We couldn’t quite put a finger on it. but this is the kind of place that you leave thinking that
something isn’t quite right. The veal scaloppine, smothered in a rich mushroom sauce, is excellent. The manicotti,
on the other hand, is nothing to write home about. The service is very attentive, but the atmosphere leaves a lot to
be desired: There is something incongruous about waiters decked out in tuxedos placing rather expensive entrees on
vinyl tablecloths. (6101 Greenville. 369-5747 Mon-Sat 5-11 pm. Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
Fabio’s. This classy-looking spot hidden away in the rear of The Corner Shopping Center has the most
imaginative Italian menu in town. You couldn’t find more original or delicious appetizers than the ones served here:
mushrooms on a bed of barely cooked fresh spinach or tender snails with sliced artichokes in a subtly flavored sauce
The other dishes we tried were also based on good ideas, but they weren’t executed as well. The shrimp in cardinale
sauce was slightly overcooked, and the veal in a sauce made with ground nuts and sherry was overpoweringly sweet. A
novel assortment of vegetables was so undercooked that it was almost raw. The spuma di zabaglione, though,
was a dessert worthy enough to make us forget the previous inconsistencies; and the careful, personal service made
Fabio’s one of the best Italian dining experiences around. (The Corner Shopping Center, Suite504, 9820 N Central
Expwy. 987-3226. Sun & Tue-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE.
$$$)
Ferrari’s. This newest addition to the burgeoning restaurant row in the West End warehouse district may be
Dallas’ best Italian restaurant. The pasta here is magnificent. The paglio e fieno (hay and straw) and the lasagna
are equally perfect. The kitchen seems to be a fountain of heavy cream, butter, egg yolks and cheese. The scaloppine
alla valdostana and the tender shrimp float in similar ivory sauces mixed with fresh sliced mushrooms. (1713
Market. 741-5538. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE.
$$$)
D REVISITS
La Bella. It’s time for us to quit looking down our noses at suburbia when it can boast a place like La
Bella. Comfortable yet classy, La Bella may not be worth a drive from Oak Lawn, but if you live in the northern
reaches of our world, this place should become a regular part of your work week. La Bella’s hot antipasto tray, a
kaleidoscopic collection of meaty mushrooms, artichoke hearts and other things valuable, is particularly noteworthy.
At first, we were overwhelmed by La Bella’s enormous menu, but except for some rather commonplace desserts and a
measly serving of veal, everything we tried was better than average. The pasta was hot and well-spiced; the wine
list, though not ambitious, was nevertheless complete. (6757 Arapaho, Richardson. 991-2828. Lunch: Mon-Fri
11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. MC, V, AE. $$$)
La Tosca. With its spacious, black-and-white-tiled entry and waiters dressed in snazzy striped T-shirts, La
Tosca has a European classiness not found at other local Italian eateries. The food is similarly chic. For
appetizers, the seafood salad (a briny, tart mixture of mostly squid and octopus) and the mussels broiled in garlic
butter are both well-prepared. A special broiled red snapper was excellent, but jumbo scampi arrived with that
telltale bright pink blush that spells toughness. La Tosca really shines, however, with its pastas. Special bravos
go to the tortellini with prosciutto and the paglib e fieno. You’ll be hard pressed to make room for dessert, but
the profitterol al cioccolato-gooey with chocolate and cream – is a decadent, delicious treat. (7713 Inwood.
352-8373. Tue-Sun 6-10:30 pm. Reservations Tue-Thur& Sun only. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)
La Trattoria Lombardl. More than any other cuisine, Italian food sets a mood, and Lombardi’s hot, creamy
pasta manages to warm and relax you and make life in general seem considerably more pleasant. At La Trattoria, quiet
music, brick archways and traditionally good-natured and competent service completed the spell that began when we
sampled several appetizers. Carpaccia (perfectly spiced, paper-thin slices of juicy raw beef served with capers and
light Dijon mustard) practically dissolved in our mouths. But the veal with sweetbreads and the chet’s own recipe
for homemade green lasagna were the crowning glories of the evening. (2916 Hall. 823-6040; 528-7506. Lunch:
Mon-Fri 11 -2; dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards $$$)
Mario’s. One of Dallas’ oldest and most loved expensive restaurants, Mario’s falls between the Italian and
continental categories. A number of pasta dishes are beautifully prepared, but it’s hard to communicate to the
otherwise very helpful waiters that you want them served before (rather than as accompaniments to) a main dish. The
various veal and fish dishes we’ve tried here over the years have all been competently prepared, but we have always
left Mario’s feeling more comforted than excited. (Turtle Creek Village, Suite 135, Oak Lawn at Blackburn.
521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)
Piccolo Mondo. This interesting new Italian restaurant advertises itself as serving Adriatic cuisine, but the
menu is standard Northern Italian. The important thing here is that the cooking is excellent in its hearty,
forthright style, from the appetizers to the desserts. The scampi are delectable in their garlic-butter sauce. Half
orders of pasta are available for $4.50, and the tortellini and cannelloni are extraordinary. The veal in the
various scaloppini dishes is of good quality; the sauces, thick and forceful. Outstanding desserts include the
cannoli and the crème caramel-old standbys, to be sure, but executed better here than elsewhere. The service was up
to the level of the food. All in all, Piccolo Mondo may not offer any revelations or gaudy new inventions, but we
wish every restaurant did this well when concentrating on the fundamentals. (9507 Over-lake Drive. 357-2983.
Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-1 am. All credit cards. $$$)
Pietro’s. This is the sort of place people used to refer to when they said that they were going out to eat
Italian food. Not everything comes with tomato sauce, but many of the best things do. The well-cooked pasta is
drenched in it (with meat or without); thick portions of veal parmigiana swim in it; soft, bready pizzas are topped
with it. And if s not too highly flavored with garlic or herbs, so even families with picky kids can have a good
time here. (5722 Richmond. 824-9403. Tue-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. MC, V. $$)
D REVISITS
Ristorante Lombardi. The tile floors and Italian-accented (and occasionally condescending) waiters lend this
place a certain cachet. The food is mostly the real thing, too, although it’s executed with varying levels of
perfection. At our last meal, the most successful items were the tortellini with a rich chicken filling and the
desserts (a Grand Marnier souffle and a nut-filled rum cake). The least successful was a gummy, odd-tasting veal in
a sauce flavored with orange. At these prices, we would expect a meal to consistently deliver at the higher end of
the quality scale. (15501 Dallas Pkwy in Adelstein Plaza. 458-8822 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur
5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Sarpico. A Best Western hotel on Industrial Boulevard is the last place you would expect to find a good
Italian restaurant, but the food here can be excellent. Among the pastas, try linguini in white clam sauce or the
shells stuffed with ricotta. Perhaps the best entree is the chicken scarpariello, sautéed with peppers and strong
Mediterranean olives. The fritta mista (mixed, deep-fried seafood) is disappointing except for the chewy rings of
squid. (Best Western Inn-Market Center, 2023 N Industrial. 741 -5041. Breakfast: daily 6-10:30; lunch: daily
11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri-Sun 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$)
MEXICAN
Café Cancun. We’re not so sure that this is the best Mexican restaurant in town anymore (perhaps expansion
to three locations has compromised quality a bit), but Café Cancun does serve many excellent dishes, from the
charming appetizer of julienned jicama (a mild-tasting root vegetable) to the rich desserts. The tampi-quena steak
comes with an excellent enchilada and other side dishes, but the mole sauce on the chicken tasted as though the chef
had taken the common shortcut of using a prepared mix of spices rather than starting from scratch. The Caruth Plaza
location is decorated nicely enough, but it’s too crowded to be truly charming. (Caruth Plaza, Park Lane at
Central Expwy, 369-3712; 4131 Lomo Alto, 559-4011; Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 969-0244. Mon-Thur
11-11; Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon- 10 pm at Caruth Plaza; Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat 5
pm-mid-night, Sun noon-10 pm at Lomo Alto; Mon-Fri 11 am-7 pm at Plaza of the Americas. MC, V, AE. $$)
Cantu’s. This old North Dallas standby has moved much farther north and – judging from the crowd the night we
went – has taken its loyal clientele with it. Cantu’s offers Tex-Mex with no surprises; it’s rather bland for some
tastes, but dependable. The beef enchiladas are meaty – just right for introducing a newcomer from the North to the
mysteries of Tex-Mex. The char-broiled specialties such as chicken and shrimp are similarly plain but honest –
except for the beef fajitas, which are so heavily marinated as to be unpleasant. The service is earnest and
pleasant; the decor, a bit sophisticated. (5290 Belt Line, Addison. 991-9105 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat
11-11, Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Café Rlncón. This ethnic neighborhood has produced dozens of Mexican restaurants, but Café Rincón is more
sophisticated than the others. This may be the most authentic Mexican menu in town, but the cooking has its ups and
downs. The camarones Bohemia (beer-batter fried shrimp) can be extraordinary, but on our last visit, one of the four
big crustaceans smelted strongly of ammonia. The sopa de albondigas (meatball soup) had tender, tasty spheres of
meat, but the fresh herbs described on the menu were nowhere to be found. Much of the food is very hot (and
surprisingly pricey), but helpful waiters will steer you clear of the worst offenders if you ask. (2818 Harry
Mines. 742-4906. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat noon-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
Casa Rosa. We’re happy for the folks at Casa Rosa – business, apparently, couldn’t be better. We’re unhappy,
though, with the way the management is handling its success. People waiting to eat can either stand in a small,
usually crowded entrance hall or squeeze into a tiny bar. Once seated, they encounter experienced, friendly but
extremely scatterbrained and s-l-o-w service. But we understand why people are willing to put up with these and
other problems: The food here is very good. The mixed appetizer plate of nachos and fajitas is a wonderful way to
get a sampling of Tex-Mex specialties. The entrees are offered in good combinations, and the fajitas are some of the
best in Dallas. Seafood specialties are also a treat. (Inwood Village, Suite 165, Inwood at Lovers Lane. 350-5227
Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10. Fri 5-11, Sat & Sun noon-10. All credit cards. $$)
Chiquita. This place serves fine Mexican cuisine in a slightly formal atmosphere. Other Dallas restaurants
have recently tried this same approach, but Chiquita was one of the first. The chicken nacho appetizer, one of the
menu’s shining stars, offers tender chicken topped with Monterey Jack cheese. The menu is divided between Tex-Mex
offerings and Mexico City-style Mexican food. There’s a mixed platter for those who want a balanced sampling of the
more localized fare (enchiladas, tamales, tacos), and the sirloin steak grilled with peppers and onions (tender beef
with delicate grilled vegetables on the side) is a winner from the other side of the menu. (3810 Congress.
5210721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30pm. Fri & Sat 11:30am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V,AE. $$)
Escondido. If we called this place a “dive” in the literal sense, Escondido would make your ears pop. But
don’t despair when you see Escondido’s ramshackle white frame exterior or its late-New York subway interior. The
Tex-Mex food is superior, the chips are just greasy enough, and the servings are massive, considering the price. But
skip the chalupas, and don’t be too critical of the basic nachos. You aren’t here for anything chichi (although the
mushroom enchiladas are quite good); you’re here for extraordinary beans, rice, tamales and tacos. (2210 Butler.
631-9912. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Genaro’s Tropical. This is Mexican food with a different spirit: upbeat, New Wave, jazzy, Latin and hot!
Genaro’s takes the notion of stretching our palates with border delicacies even farther than Café Cancun by adding
irresistible nuggets of fresh seafood to how-can-you-miss favorites like enchiladas, tacos and nachos. The pez
espada (swordfish kebab) is truly outstanding, as are the tacos al carbon and the enchiladas Genaro. The shrimp
dishes, though tasty, are a bit light on the shrimp. Nothing really misses here, not even traditional Tex-Mex. One
complaint: For a large room, the tables seem a tad small. (5815 Live Oak. 827-9590. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm;
appetizers only: Sun-Thur 10:30-11 pm, Fri & Sal 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$)
Guadalajara. Okay, we confess. We revisited this familiar hole in the wall expecting an easy ride We planned
to scarf up excellent Tex-Mex, make the usual disclaimer about the rather run-down location and burp all the way
back to the office. Another day, another Dos Equis. Were we ever wrong! Amazingly, Guadalajara has backslid quite a
bit. First, the service was not mildly deficient, not bad, but awful. We received menus without prices and
without explanation, as if we should have known that all the lunch entrees are the same price. We were given chips
and hot sauce but no napkins. When our very hot plates arrived, no warning was given, and one hapless diner
singed his hand. But, we told ourselves, this is Guadalajara; surely the food would redeem this disaster. It did,
but only in part. The chicken enchiladas with sour cream were as flavorful as ever, and the flour tortillas are
still the best in the city. But the meat in the burrito was barely cooked and of a suspicious hue, and the rice was
only so-so. We hope for better things on our next visit – if there is one. (3308 Ross at Hall. 823-9340. Tue-Fri
11 am-4 am, Sat & Sun 9 am-4 am. Closed Mon. MC, V. $)
D REVISITS
Herrera. The most outstanding characteristic of this pleasantly dumpy Tex:Mex house is its smallness. Hot hot
sauce, greaseless tacos and dynamite flour tortillas may draw hungry crowds to Herrera, but you can bet that the
masses don’t sit down to sup together – there isn’t room. But if you don’t mind a line and guaranteed tight
quarters, if you’re looking for authenticity and for fresh, high-quality ingredients, and if your tongue is
flame-retardant, then head for Herrera. (3902 Maple. 526-9427 Mon, Wed & Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun 9 am-10 pm.
Closed Tue. No credit cards. $)
Javier’s. Billing itself as a “gourmet Mexicano” restaurant, Javier’s serves fare that comes under the one
hyphenated abbreviation we don’t hear very often in Dallas: Mex-Mex (or Mexican food a la Mexico City). The unfancy
decor of stone, dark wood and plants is shown up by the downright exotic selection of mostly beef and seafood dishes
prepared with pungent marinades and sauces such as black pepper sauce or garlic sauce. We enjoyed the filete
cantinflas, a beef tenderloin stuffed with Monterey Jack cheese and seasoned butter and topped with a chile mulato
sauce and sliced avocado. The polio al ajillo (chicken sautéed m garlic sauce) was a bit dry but perfectly
flavored. The bean and cheese nachos, made with black beans, are some of the best we’ve tried. (4912 Cole
521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)
Joe T. Garcia’s. We love the old-time Tex-Mex recipes that Joe T. brought over from Fort Worth; none of your
fancy, exotic or newfangled dishes here. Just homemade tacos fried right in the shell, cheesy-gooey enchiladas,
flavorful rice and rich-tasting beans. But we do wish that Joe T. would do something about the unpleasant smell of
cooking oil that pervades the room and lessens the pleasure of the fresh-from-the-stove tostadas. Not even the
carefully cooked food and attentive service can compensate for that smell. (4440 Belt Line. Addison. 458-7373.
Mon-Fri 11 am-3 pm & 5-11 pm.Sat 11-11, Sun 4-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Los Vaqueros. Los Vaqueros, Highland Park’s longtime favorite place to eat an enchilada, is one of the most
dependable places in town for old-fashioned Tex-Mex. Over the years, the management has added fancier dishes to try
to emulate the upscale competition. But we found the tacos al carbon tough, and the filete de casita had a
dispirited color that reminded us of boiled beef. From now on, we’ll stick to the first-rate tacos and tamales.
(Highland Park Village, Suite 77, Preston at Mockingbird, 521-0892. Sun-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10
pm. All credit cards. $$)
DREVISITS
Mariano’s. This is neither hole-in-the-wall Tex-Mex nor “gourmet” Mexican, but something all its own. Enjoy
the unpretentious but gracious surroundings and the polished service as you run the gamut from an unusually well –
stuffed chile relleno to steak Milanesa and pechuga a la parilla (breast of chicken char-broiled with a delicious
mist of garlic butter and cilantro). The only flaw here is the rather upscale sin of charging for soft tortillas
(Old Town, 5500 Greenville at Lovers Lane. 691 -3888 Mon-Sat 11:30 am-11 pm, Sun 11:30 am-10 pm. All credit
cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Mario & Alberto. This country cousin of Chiquita (we use the term “country” loosely; the restaurant is
located across from Valley View Center) is a peach of a place in which to sample non-traditional Mexican cuisine in
enchantingly pastel surroundings. New additions to Mario & Alberto’s menu – already peppered nicely with selections
of chicken and seafood – include Polio Ranchero, a delicious dish of diced chicken and sautéed vegetables, and
Shrimp al Ajillo, a serving of meaty shrimp cooked and served in half shells. The usual Tex-Mex offerings – we
sampled a beef enchilada and retried beans a la carte – were also enjoyable. For appetizers, both the chicken nachos
(thoughtfully served with jalapenos on the side) and the guacamole are excellent; for dessert, the Kahlua pie and
the cinnamon ice cream are sure bets. Service is reasonably good; we didn’t always know where our waiter’s head was,
but his heart was in the right place. (LBJ Frwy at Preston in Preston Valley Shopping Center, Suite 435. 980-7296
Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fn & Sat11.30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5 membership charge. MC, V, AE.
$$)
Mexico. This newest Shannon Wynne creation has a wonderfully non-hi-tech, eclectic style, with carved angels
and chili-pepper light bulbs hanging from the ceiling and jars of crayons on the tables so that diners can draw on
the butcher-paper table coverings (reminiscent of Un, Deux, Trois in New York). The menu is eclectic, too, with
Mexican versions of rabbit and squid. The problem here is that much of the food doesn’t taste as good as it sounds
The safest bets are the mixed nachos (topped with everything, including chicken molé) and the Polio Carlos (chicken
in a Yucatecan sauce). If as much trouble had been taken with the execution of the food as with the conception of
the restaurant, this would be a wonderful place. (2911 Routh. 760-8639. Sun-Wed 11:30 am- 10:30 pm, Thur-Sat
11:30-11:30. MC, V, AE.)
SEAFOOD
Aw Shucks. If open-air dining on the shucks may be impractical during the cooler months, squeeze into this
tiny oyster bar and stand-up eatery for large fantail shrimp, authentic gumbo and fried oysters that are tasty but
small. That’s the only drawback here: The meals are simple and good, but the portions are small and padded with
french fries. If you like oysters on the half shell, don’t miss the horseradish – its shotgun kick will quickly
clear your sinuses. (3601 Greenville. 821-9449. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:45 pm. Sun noon-9
pm. No credit cards. $)
Banno Brothers. Like so many good, moderately priced seafood restaurants, Banno Brothers is cool and dimly
lit, with garish decor no doubt salvaged from a closeout sale in Davy Jones’ Locker. The menu can be trusted from
top to bottom, from oysters on the half shell (shucked on location) to large, meaty fantail shrimp drenched in
butter. The fried snapper has taken a quantum leap for the better since our last visit; now it’s tender, not too
crusty and large. By the way. this is the sort of place where you can still order a “schooner” of beer and be
understood. Ignore Banno’s venial sin of charging for hush puppies, and enjoy. (1516 Greenville. 821-1321.
Mon-Thur11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V. $$)
D REVISITS
Boston Sea Party. Quantity rather than quality is what you pay your hefty $22.95 for here. Several of the
dozens of (mostly seafood) items on the all-you-can-eat buffet tables are good enough to devour en masse – we found
ourselves especially fond of the king crab legs and the hot popovers. And there’s even a decent (and again, hefty)
cooked-to-order course of lobster, salmon or steak. But far too many of the dishes had a bland, standardized style
and a bitter aftertaste suggesting the Deepfreeze for us to take too much pleasure in all this bounty. (13444
Preston. 239-7061. Mon-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. Sun 4:30-9 pm. All credit cards. $$$$)
D REVISITS
Fishmonger’s Market Seafood Café. At this tiny Piano fishmarket, which doubles as a restaurant and takeout
shop, both fried and broiled seafood come off admirably. The broiled scrod was impeccably fresh and delicate in
texture, and the fried catfish and oysters were both crunchy, needing just a bit more salt to be delectable. All
orders come with a not-too-sweet slaw and a choice of freshly cut french fries or red beans and rice. (1915 N
Central Expwy, Suite 600, Piano. 423-3699. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat noon-10 pm, Sun noon-8 pm. All
credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Hampton’s Seafood Market. It’s nearly impossible to get into a conversation with a North Dallasite without
being regaled with the news that Hampton’s has opened a branch in Preston Royal Shopping Center. The excitement
stems from the new northern accessibility of Hampton’s hot lunches, cold salads and sandwiches and frozen dinner
entrées – not to mention the wondrous varieties of fish and seafood available for cooking at home. We enjoyed our
salad plate – little scoops of mysterious fish salads on a bed of lettuce (we felt secure in identifying the flaked
salmon and tuna, but the others could have been anything from monkfish to herring). The Hampton’s St. Jacques was a
casserole of tiny bay scallops – tasty but a mite dried-out around the edges. Sandwiches come on large croissants
and are served with either gumbo or chowder. Among the carryout items, the lobster thermidor and the stuffed lemon
sole are standouts. (Preston Royal Shopping Center, Suite 113. 696-5400. Mon-Sat 8 am-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. No
credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Jozefs. Jozefs new location on Walnut Hill serves food that’s as good as that of the original, and you don’t
have to fight the crowds. We were impressed with the spicy ceviche (lots of lime, tomatoes, fresh peppers and
high-quality fish) and with the gumbo, although the boiled shrimp were rather bland. If you prefer something
straightforward, the broiled swordfish is first-rate; if you want something a bit fancier, the red snapper with crab
meat in a spirited sauce is also splendid. (2719 McKinney, 826-5560; 2460 Walnut Hill, 351-5365. Lunch: Mon-Fri
11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Ratclltfe’s. Given the airy atmosphere of this many-windowed seafood hot spot, the food here is better than
it has to be. Even in a dungeon, Ratcliffe’s continental seafood would lift your spirits. Both the esoteric entrées
(such as the unforgettably pungent filet of mako shark and the abalone steak) and the humbler items (such as the
fried seafood platter or the baked trout with saffron rice) deserve applause. For lighter appetites, the thick clam
chowder or oysters Wellington should suffice. (1901 McKinney. 748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun- Thur
5-1; Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES
Fran’s. Don’t be fooled by the men in coats and ties; wear your jeans and T-shirt and get set for some good,
down-home cookin’ – maybe even a mite better than Mom used to make. The atmosphere here is down-to-earth: The walls
are shingled, the windows are filled with pots of English ivy. and the blue jean-clad waitresses are friendly and
attentive. We were impressed with the chicken-fried steak and with the catfish, which were topped off with
home-cooked mashed potatoes, squash and corn bread. The menu changes daily, so bring your bifocals to read the
chalkboard menus that hang on the wall. (3005 N Hall. 741 -7589. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-9,
Fri 5-10, Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
D REVISITS
Dovle’s. Soldier/actor Audie Murphy’s house used to be out in the country. Now it’s in the middle of booming
Addison, and its comfortable and elegant rooms are a good place to eat down-home cooking The onion soup is the best
in town; the chicken-fried steak and pot roast, excellent; the mashed potatoes, homemade rolls and home-cooked
vegetables, delicious. We were disappointed in the sautéed snapper and in the wonderful-sounding desserts, but not
in the enthusiastic and skillful service. (4671 Midway. 233-9846 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30: dinner: Sun-Thur
5:30-9:30, Fri & Sal 5:30-10: Sun brunch: 11-2:30. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Highland Park Cafeteria. The Sakowitz Villagebranch of HPC seemed to have fallen a little fartherbehind the
original location on our last visit. The friedchicken, our most trusty measuring stick for the cooking here, tasted
floury and a bit sad. But we were gladto see that the cooks had returned to HPC’s glorious oldrecipe for the stuffed
peppers: The brisket trimmings,which are the secret basic ingredient for the dish, hadbeen left in shreds rather
than processed to a pulp asthey had been the previous time we tried them. Evenwith occasional flaws, HPC still
offers some of the bestold-fashioned Southern cooking in Texas. (4611 Cole.526-3801: 600 Sakowitz Village on the
Pkwy, 934-8025. MonSat 11 am 8 pm: closed Sun at Cole location. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30pm & 5:15-8 pm, Sat 11 am-8pm, Sun
11 am-2:30 pm at Sakowitz Village location.No liquor. No credit cards. $)
STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.
Antares. This is the perfect spot for a visitor who’s staying at the Hyatt: It has an excellent view, good
food and adequate service. By the same token, Antares isn’t an extraordinary place for Dallasites who have already
seen the view. The specialty is excellent aged beef, including prime rib that’s of melt-in-the-mouth quality. A
sampling of seafood and fowl is also available, with a few basic appetizers such as shrimp cocktail and somewhat
unimaginative escargots. (300 Reunion Blvd. 741 -3663 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11 -2: dinner: daily 6-11: Sun brunch:
10:30-2:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
The Beefeater. We have a beef with The Beefeater (two. actually): Excluding the steaks (which were tender and
flavorful), the side dishes are marginal, and the service here is terribly slow. Don’t misunderstand: The
employees are pleasant enough, as are the dark, publike surroundings. But we had to wait half an hour – on a very
slow night-for our appetizers of onion rings (which were sodden and barely warm) and Boston clam chowder. Our
entrees were served an hour after we were seated. But the prime rib and filet mignon did indeed satisfy. Perhaps if
a little more attention was paid to other menu offerings, and if service was significantly beefed up, The Beefeater
could give nearby Hoff-brau some competition. (3010 N Henderson at Central Expwy. 826-2553 Lunch: Mon-Fn 11:30-2;
dinner: Mon- Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 30 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. $$$)
Jasons. This steak and seafood restaurant in SakowitzVillage has a lot going for it: aged beef cut to order
andwell-grilled, a sophisticated setting and a selection ofgood wines available by the glass. It’s a pleasant
placethat, with some work, could be a lot better. Steaks aregood, but the prime rib is rather tasteless. None of
theseafood we tried was impressive Perhaps more attention has been paid to the setting here than the
food.(Sakowitz Village, 5100 Belt Line, Suite 502. Addison.960-2877 Lunch: Mon-Fn 11-3: dinner: Mon-Thur5-10:30,
Fri & Sat 5-11:30. Sun 5-9; Sun brunch: 11-3.All credit cards. $$$.)
Kobe Steaks. Angato! That’s Japanese for thank you,thank you, thank you.” Kobe Steaks has again
servedus a scrumptious feast of unbelievably tender beef,chicken and succulent shrimp, fresh vegetables andhot soup.
Best of all, it was done in the Japanese tradition, without all the theatrics of Benihana A salad, ashrimp appetizer
and sherbet desserts are includedwith all entrees. That’s a very filling, economical meal fora little more (or,
depending on your choice, a little less)than $10. (The Quorum, Suite 600, 5000 Belt Line.934-8150 Sun-Thur5-11
pm. Fri & Sat 5 pm-midmght.All credit cards $$)
Lawr/s The Prime Rib. This is the third location of a restaurant that was established in Beverly Hills in
1938. The gimmick is that it only serves one dish: roast beef. The surprise about Lawr/s is the lavishness of it
all. You don’t expect valet parking, anterooms with woodburning fireplaces and fancy decor at a meat-and-potato
place. The food should please an all-Amencan appetite, and the roast beef is excellent. We recommend getting one of
the larger cuts, since the smallest is sliced more thinly than we like our roast. (3008 Maple. 521-7777-
Mon-Thur5-10:30pm, Fri& Sat5- 11:30pm, Sun 4-10 pm All credit cards. $$$)
Pat’s Sandwich Delicatessen. This cozy deli next to the Highland Park Village Theater is usually packed with
shoppers and Highland Parkers of all ages at lunchtime. Pat’s is probably best known for its incomparable roast beef
sandwiches: paper-thin slices of flavorful, deep pink beef served on a buttered Kaiser roll. But Pat’s also serves
one of the best corned beef sandwiches outside New York City, as well as hearty Irish stew and creamy cheesecake.
(31 Highland Park Village. 526-5353 Mon-Thur 8 am-7 pm, Fri & Sat 8 am-8 pm. No credit cards. $)
D REVISITS
Purdy’s. This is the home of the hi-tech-and high-priced – hamburger. Under the exposed heating ductsand amid
the yards of bent neon (an American flag inaddition to a myriad of beer logos), you belly up to thecounter to order
huge burgers on homemade buns.Then, when your name is called, you add all the fixingsyou want from another bar.
There’s also a meat marketand a bakery on the premises and lots of longnecksand soft drinks in old-fashioned
bottles. The quality ishigh, but we find it difficult to shell out $3.95 for a burgerand almost another buck for
some home-cooked butnot very remarkable fries. (The Quorum, 4812 Belt Line.960-2494 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri &
Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun noon-10 pm MC, V. $)
Wonderful World of Cooking. These little tearooms are pleasant stops for lunchers who care more about food
than atmosphere. Our meal began with complimentary cups of a light, tomatoey broth and small cheese wafers. Next, we
enjoyed a satisfying order of green enchiladas (which were served, interestingly enough, with salad, zucchini bread
and hot, homemade cinnamon rolls) and the green chili quiche, which also came with salad and rolls. Dieters’ dishes
are available, but the homemade desserts (we tried a slice of coconut pie and the Kentucky Derby pie, a fudge-pecan
temptation that is served hot) are too good to pass up. (5007 W Lovers Lane. 358-3345:1900 Pacific, 749-0444:
Arnold Square, 13410-G Preston, 386-8620:6023 Sherry Lane, 750-0382:621 Preston Royal Village, 739-4803: 208
Mandalay Canal. Irving, 556-2525:602 Plymouth Park Shopping Center, 253-0666: 1305Avenue K. Piano, 423-8815.
Storehours: Mon-Fri 9:30 am-6 pm. Sat 9:30 am-5 pm. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3 at all locations. Dinner: Thur 6-9 pm at
Arnold Square location. Closed Sun. Catering and takeout available. No credit cards: personal checks accepted.
$)
D REVISITS
Ruth’s Chris Steak House. Still the queen of Dallas steakhouses, this place packs the customers in at all
hours in the quest for the ultimate in meat and potatoes. The huge hunks of USDA prime beef, perfectly cooked and
drizzled with butter and parsley, look as though no one could ever finish them, but somehow we polished them all oft
with no need for a doggy bag. The prices here are as high as the quality of the beef; the side dishes (all of
which-even salad and potatoes-cost extra) are no great shakes; and the service can seem harried even if
well-intentioned. But none of these things will matter at all to someone who insists on the best in steaks. (6940
Greenville. 691-6940. Mon-Fri 11:30-11:30, Sat & Sun 5-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
MID-CITIES RESTAURANTS
Brunl’s. There’s something to be said for cheap Italian restaurants like Bruni’s, located in a Bedford strip
shopping center-especially if “cheap” means solid, reasonably priced meals in clean, modest surroundings.You won’t
find strolling musicians here, just tablescovered with red-and-white checked oilcloths andfriendly waitresses to
take your order. We sampled avariety of the offerings, including fried ravioli, fried artichoke hearts, shrimp
scampi and spaghetti with mushrooms. Our favorite item was the huge batch of artichoke hearts we received for only
$3.50. Our leastfavorite dish was the spaghetti (specifically its sauce,which was too heavy on the tomato paste and
too lighton the spices). Bruni’s is definitely worth a try if you livein the Mid-Cities. (2855 Central Dr.,
Bedford. (817)283-4380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 4-10pm. Reservations recommended. MC.V, AE. $$)
The China Rose. This Arlington restaurant, decoratedto resemble a street market in Hong Kong, is like
anOriental TGI Friday’s -and it’s just as crowded. Thegarish ambiance is fine if you’re in the mood for it, butin
other areas the China Rose fails to deliver. We had towait an hour and a half for a table (a lengthy intervaleven by
Saturday-night standards). Among the appetizers, the parchment-wrapped shrimp were delectable although somewhat
overpriced (four tinypieces cost $2.95). The China Treasure Chicken, on theother hand, had generous portions but
contained asmuch skin and fat as meat. (1401 N Collins, Arlington.(817)277-5888 Sun-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri&Sat
11-11.MC. V, AE. $$)
Empress of China. The garish red-and-yellow sign that announces “Empress of China” to the world might make
you think that decor isn’t one of this restaurant’s finer points. Think again. Inside, the Empress is almost regal:
spare, white and subtly elegant. The food is mostly middle-of-the-road Chinese-better than adequate but less than
outstanding. One dish to try: the Shrimp (or Seafood) Wor Bar. If you’re in the Mid-Cities, this place is worth a
try. (2648 N Belt Line, Irving. 252-7677. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm: Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. Reservations.
MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Los Canarios. People who aren’t from Euless may find it hard to locate this family-run restaurant hidden away
in a shopping center, but do try; it serves excellent Mexican specialties. The steak for the carne asada is
marinated in orange juice and brushed with butter while on the grill, creating an enticing beef dish. The crab
chimichangas (crunchy fried burritos) are unusual and satisfying. The standard mixed platters are good, but they’re
not quite what we Texans are used to-the owners come from Mexico and Southeast Asia, and Tex-Mex is not a native
cuisine to them. (Hwy 10 at Raider. Euless. (817)283-4691. Lunch; Mon-Fn 11-2, dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-1
1:30, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$)
FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS
Calamity’s. Calamity’s is a novelty restaurant/bar named after the infamous Calamity Jane. The interior is
upgraded mine shaft, and the food is average at best, but mere are some clever (and appreciated) touches: At the
beginning of Sunday brunch, the champagne flows freely, and a cappuccino machine and real whipped cream await
you at the end of the buffet. The salad bar is well-stocked, and the view of the downtown skyline of Fort Worth is
impressive. Still, these two attributes don’t make up for inadequate service and so-so food. (1900 Ben St. (817)
534-4908 Sun-Thur 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm: Sun brunch: 10:30-2. Reservations recommended. All credit cards
$$$)
The Carriage House. It’s a bit overpriced, perhaps, but Fort Worth patrons seem to be stuck on this genteel
Old Guard establishment. Nothing is rushed here, especially service, which can be annoying if you’re anxious to
catch a show. Wait until you can spend the better part of an evening; then sit back, and you may enjoy (as we did)
stuffed mushrooms, escargots, rack of lamb and broiled abalone (5136 Camp Bowie (817) 732-2873. Lunch:
Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11. Sun 6-10: Sun brunch: 11-2. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
El Rancho Grande. Although this restaurant is fairly new, it’s steadily challenging its older competitors in
the area (Jimenez and Joe T.’s). The chicken enchiladas are smothered in sour cream, and the tacos al carbon are
thick with generous portions of steak. Even the customary chips are distinctive; they’re light, not heavy or soggy
with grease. One disappointment: Although the special margarita was indeed special (made with liqueurs and call
tequila), its price was astronomical: $4.10. (1400 N Mam. (817) 624-9206 Mon-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11
am-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards $$)
Escape. It took us quite a while to find this hideaway: It’s an obscure white house that looks like any of
the other quiet residences on this street, except that valet parking attendants line the tiny parking area with
Cadillacs and BMWs. But it’s a wonderful escape-a seven-course evening that comes mighty close to rivaling the
five-course, five-star offering at Michel. Our entree of veal wrapped in herbs was simply presented, not drenched in
an overpowering sauce. (3416 Pel-ham. (817)738-9704. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Fri 5:30-10. Sat5-11,
Sun 5-10; Sun brunch: 11:30-3 All credit cards. $$$)
Reflections. This restaurant’s subdued, peachy pastels work well with black trim, and the quality of the food
is superb. Yet despite the opulent touches, we felt a bit exposed as we dined in the long, rectangular room. But
don’t be put off; go to Reflections for the food, because as far as hotel restaurants go, this place manages to
break the stereotypes and deliver well-prepared and thoughtful dishes comparable to any of the best restaurants in
Fort Worth. For starters, try the scallops wrapped in bacon or the pate plate with a sweet sauce. The New York
sirloin with Bercy sauce is overpriced at $18.50, but the cut is as tender as butter; and the Ginger Duck is
delightful, with a perfectly sweetened sauce that enhances but doesnt overpower. (200 Main. (817) 870-9894.
Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30 pm. MC, V. AE. $$$)
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