SPRING BREAKS

YOU’VE GOT ONE weekend. Nothing more, nothing less. It’s Friday afternoon-happy hours are in full swing, plans for a Saturday morning tee-off are being made and there’s talk about some darned project around the house that needs tending. You know-the never-ending list of weed-choked flower beds, drippy faucets, tarnished silver, dusty furniture and, and, and… you’re ready to break loose.

Within minutes, you’ve thrown a few things into a ratty old suitcase, shuffled the cat or the kids off to your sister’s, canceled the newspapers and you’re on your way.

But to where? A sunny, secluded hideaway for two? A ski resort high in the mountains? A romantic, European-style village? A historic country inn nestled in a small rural town? Whatever your pleasure-or whim-it can be found within hours of dear old Dallas. We know because we’ve explored seven terrific what-the-heck-let’s-go weekend destinations. Judging by the low-key atmosphere that’s overtaken the office these days, these respites were just what the doctor ordered.

So grab a weekend-any weekend. Forget your cares and fly. Nothing can cure the pre-spring blues more quickly than a quick, unexpected change of pace.

Here’s to spontaneity!

SAN ANTONIO



A river is a soothing force. The gurgling sounds and the slow-flowing motion are naturally relaxing -even hypnotic. Add a garden atmosphere, where you’re surrounded by fresh flowering plants and warm breezes, and you’ve got a little bit of paradise right here in Texas. It’s called San Antonio.

Maybe it’s the river. Maybe it’s the tepid climate. Maybe it’s the warm, friendly natives, but there’s something inherently tranquil about San Antonio. The San Antonio River runs straight through the city’s central business district, with shops, cafes and benches lining its two-mile stretch. Though the river is by no means the center of the activity, it is a definite plus.

That’s why we suggest that travelers stay near the river. You’ll find several hotels from which to choose, ranging from a contemporary Hyatt hotel (the river appears to run beneath the hotel) to an old-time historic inn like La Mansion del Rio. If you enjoy antiques and want to get a good feel for the flavor of the city, consider La Mansion. The rates are a bit high, but they’re worth it if you request a room with a balcony overlooking the river. La Mansion is both charming and relaxing.

If you stay on the river, many attractions will be within walking distance. Recently, a shopping village called La Villita opened on the south side of the horseshoe. All the buildings in the village are historic landmarks, and each primitive hut and adobe and stone house is a reminder of Texas’ deep Mexican heritage. There are several arts-and-crafts stores here, and although some prices are high, good deals on gifts can be found. La Villita is within a few blocks of the Alamo.

San Antonio has a tremendous city market that is about as close to a true Mexican market as is available in the States. Mexican wares, crafts and clothing are offered at near-steal prices, and the atmosphere is festive. Across the street from the city market is the farmer’s market, with loads of fresh produce.

Since history is an important aspect of San Antonio, there are several “musts” other than the Alamo. The King William Historic District, a residential section of the city, is full of vintage Victorian houses that date back to the mid-1800s. The area is a stunning example of preservation at its best. These houses don’t seem to have been restored per se, just lovingly maintained through the years.

Visit at least one of the several old missions that lie a few miles outside the city. They’re worth the time and effort it takes to find them.

Nightlife in San Antonio, at least for visitors, centers on the Riverwalk. Almost any time of the year, the place is hopping – in that slow, relaxed San Antonio style. Everywhere you walk, there are cafes and clubs. Some are better than others. The Landing is great if you’re interested in excellent jazz and little conversation. Serious jazz fans hang out here to listen to Jim Cullum’s Happy Jazz Band.

Probably the rowdiest place on the river is Dirty Nellie. As the name implies, this is a good rendition of an old Irish pub. Peanut shells cover the floor, beer flows everywhere and the crowd is often elbow to elbow.

Food is somewhat hit-and-miss in San Antonio. A posh restaurant called PJ’s offers a tremendous bird’s-eye view of the river, but we found the food less than tremendous. A club called Arthur’s, a clone of Dallas’ Arthur’s, is a popular place among San Antonians. It’s not conveniently on the Riverwalk, but the service, food and entertainment make up for location. A good Mexican restaurant is Mi Tierra Café and Bakery, but don’t expect great atmosphere here -just delicious, authentic Mexican fare and excellent Mexican pastries.

San Antonio is about a four-and-a-half hour drive from Dallas. By air, it’s less than an hour. Check for special fares. Continental flies to San Antonio for $90 round-trip weekdays; $60 weekends.

– Aimée Larrabee



NEW ORLEANS



Oh, we can’t be good all the time. Even the straightest angel needs to tip his halo every now and then. And if you’ve got but one weekend for decadence and rambunctious behavior, why not try the halo-tipping capitol of the nation: grande old New Orleans.

Some New Orleaneans may shoot us for that statement, but, in many ways, it’s true. We know New Orleans has beautiful churches, fine houses and world-class museums, but we also know it offers something much more unusual -a gorgeous, charming, smoky, decadent, romantic atmosphere that leaves its mark on almost all its visitors. Living in New Orleans is no doubt very similar to living in just about any U.S. city of its size. But visiting New Orleans -well, it’s just a damned good time.

New Orleans was built on the Mississippi River by French settlers in 1718. Although the city now sprawls all over the place, that original settlement has become the heart of New Orleans. The area, the French Quarter, is steeped in history and is, without question, one of the nation’s closest renditions of a European town. History is the foundation of the Quarter; the preservation of what those settlers left hundreds of years ago is not just an obsession with New Orleaneans, it’s the law. Because of the stringent historic preservation rules, numerous masterpieces of that era are not only still standing, they’re thriving.

In the heart of the Quarter is famous Bourbon Street; along this single strip the mayhem begins and ends. Flashing lights and signs adorn the historic buildings; strip shows and burlesque acts abound. The street is packed 24 hours a day with pedestrians strolling (and occasionally stumbling) from establishment to establishment. Besides the crowds, the food and the drinks, the attraction of Bourbon Street is its jazz. Walk a few steps and you’ll hear a familiar song emanating from one bar; walk a few steps further, and while the first tune is still audible, the faint sound of another song can be heard escaping from another establishment.

Preservation Hall, where the best Dixieland can be heard, is a must for first-time visitors to New Orleans. So is Pat O’Brien’s, where the oh-so-potent hurricane drink originated.

Also in the Quarter, just a few blocks from raspy Bourbon Street, is Jackson Square, a park bench-lined area with statues, flowers and thousands of pigeons. Here you’ll find some of the best-and worst – sidewalk art in the country. Artists line the wrought-iron fences that enclose the square and set up shop right on the sidewalks. Gorgeous watercolors and etchings can be found, but be sure to compare prices. At one end of the square is historic St. Louis Cathedral; at the other is the Mississippi River and the port of New Orleans -the second largest port (by volume) in the country.

Along the river you’ll find a boardwalk called the Moonwalk; it’s also great for strolling. The French Market, another area of the Quarter, offers more tourist-type shopping and more artwork and knickknacks as well as fresh produce.

Stay in the French Quarter if your trip to New Orleans is to be a short one. There are many hotels to choose from, each offering different fare. Some say the Royal Sonesta is a good choice if you want the party atmosphere of Bourbon Street to trickle into the hotel lobby and bar. Others prefer the Andrew Jackson for its stately, quiet atmosphere. Another good choice is the Royal Orleans; it provides a good mix of the wild and subdued and has some stunning old architecture with several courtyards, two restaurants and impeccable service.

When it’s time to venture out of the Quarter, your options are so plentiful that it may be discouraging. Greyline offers short custom tours of the city-if you’re interested in history, you’ll get your fill of historic trivia; if architecture is your bag, there are plenty of gorgeous Victorian houses to be seen. If you want a general sweep of the city, that’s available, too. On these tours, the passengers call the shots, but keep in mind that the tour guides can get a little pushy.

If you set out on your own tour, check out Lake Pontchartrain, a 625-square-mile saltwater lake. Ride or walk through the Garden District, an area filled with stately Victorian mansions surrounded by splendid gardens. St. Charles Avenue, a broad parkway, runs through the center of the district. And be sure to take a trolley ride down the avenue; it’s one of the most relaxing hignfights orthe trip.

After -or, even better, during -the strolls through the Quarter and the tours through the city, you must discover – then savor -one aspect of New Orleans: the food. Creole cooking abounds in this Old South city, and it should not be missed. Several places to try are Arnaud’s, An-toine’s, Brennan’s, Gallatoire’s, Brous-sard’s and Jonathan’s, all in the Quarter and all top-notch. Outside the Quarter, wander uptown to Commander’s Palace, a garden restaurant famous for its original, lavish jazz brunch. La Routh’s, across the river from the Quarter, is perhaps the most highly touted restaurant in the South. It is expensive but elegant. Pascal’s Manale is a more casual restaurant famous for its barbecued shrimp.

Air travel to New Orleans can be inexpensive if you shop around. Southwest Airlines usually offers special deals.

-Aimée Larrabee



VAIL



Ski buffs tend to think of hitting the slopes as soon as the Thanksgiving dishes are cleared away. With winter’s approach, thoughts turn to sun-dappled snowy peaks, moonlit sleigh rides and hot mulled wine by the fire.

By this time of year, most local skiers have already made at least one trek to the Rockies. But to put away the gear for the season is to forego one of Colorado’s purest pleasures: springtime in Vail.

Anytime is a good time to visit this romantic Alpine retreat, but March is a month marked by brilliant sunny days that warm up early and stretch lazily into the late afternoon known as apresVski time. It’s the season for skiers to shed their down jackets and pack a picnic lunch and a botá of wine. This March is a special one in Vail: In addition to celebrating its 20th anniversary, the mountain resort will host the American Ski Classic of racing events March 7 through 13.

The village of Vail, 100 miles from Denver, is Colorado’s largest single-mountain resort. In two decades, it has burgeoned from a few lifts and a six-building strip to a mega-resort. But Vail has managed to maintain that elusive quality that, in our view, exemplifies a true “getaway”: the ability to enchant so thoroughly that intentions to call the office for messages or check in with the baby sitter evaporate with the first breath of cold, pinescented air.

Since its founding in 1962, Vail has been a favorite stomping ground of Dallasites, many of whom own houses or condominiums that hug the hilly terrain around town. Such local notables as Ross Perot, Trammell Crow and Dick Bass are frequent guests at Vail -often there to hobnob with their buddy and Vail’s number one celebrity citizen: Gerald Ford. Another Dallas businessman, Harry Bass, liked Vail so much he bought it. Bass owns the controlling interest in Vail Associates, the controlling enterprise in town.

But scores of more ordinary mortals have savored Vail’s cozy lodges, enticing eateries and shops, and the mountain’s superb skiing. One reason Vail is so popular is its versatile ski terrain, which (unlike other resorts that cater to experts) offers scores of runs that a novice can master. Not that Vail doesn’t have any challenging slopes – the “back bowls” are legend – but even first-time skiers come away feeling they have “skied Vail.”

A weekend in Vail begins with a two- hour flight to Denver. From there, you can rent a car and drive two and a half hours or fly to Vail via Rocky Mountain Airways. It’s a short hop by plane, and if your connections are good, it’s the preferable way to travel. You really don’t need a car in Vail; what isn’t within walking distance is easily accessible by free shuttle bus.

There are many lodging choices, ranging from a relatively ho-hum room in the village for about $60 to Gerald Ford’s con-do, which runs $500 a night. Families or couples traveling together might be better off in a condominium with a kitchenette. Accommodations can be secured by calling the reservations clearinghouse at Vail Resort Association, 1-800-525-3875, Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

We sampled the luxurious new Westin Hotel -a lovely, European-style inn at the foot of the newly developing Cascade Village. When it’s complete, Cascade Village will provide a third major destination point in Vail -complete with condos, restaurants and shops, an athletic club, a community college and a meandering waterway that will trickle throughout. Vail Village is the original nucleus of the town, and LionsHead, a short drive down I-70, was built in 1979. These two areas offer, as the locals say, a “way to get out of the valley;” translation: ski lifts to the slopes. In addition, there’s another mountain resort under development 10 miles away: Beaver Creek. When it’s complete, Beaver Creek will be to Vail what Snow-mass is to Aspen. The areas in operation now are impressive, and the skiing is wonderful-and less crowded than Vail.

Our stay was invigorating, exhilarating, exhausting. Vail is not a place to rest -unless you plan to sleep in while your buddies ski. But that’s because every activity is so enjoyable that it’s difficult to pass up anything. Early morning skiers get the benefit of being first in the only long lift lines of the day. If you attend ski school (and it’s worthwhile, even if just for one day) you’ll come down off the mountain just in time to clomp along in your ski boots to the nearest bar.

Then it’s off to the hot tub for a soothing soak – outdoors! The bravest souls roll their bathing-suited bodies in the snow before surrendering to the healing waters. Next, a quick sauna, perhaps a massage, a shower and it’s back to dress for the night out. We found it pays to put your name on a waiting list and have a drink at the restaurant where you plan to eat. Otherwise, you’ll find yourself munching popcorn until 11 o’clock.

The only down side of a weekend in Vail is how quickly it goes by. Next season, vow to stay the whole week!

-Ruth Miller Fitzgibbons



RED RIVER



Aerobics may trim your thighs and transcendental meditation may work wonders for your soul, but nothing brings life back into perspective like the sight of a mighty purple-peaked, wren- and redbird-quilted mountain. And it seems to me that if one doesn’t visit such a mountain regularly, that particular vision of majesty will seep from memory.

With this in mind, God made Red River, New Mexico -close enough to Dallas to be accessible for a weekend, but far enough away to be treated as a mecca. Red River became a bodacious boomtown in 1895, when gold was discovered in nearby Elizabethtown. The settlement grew quickly from 200 citizens to more than 5,000 gold diggers, every one of whom climbed the treacherous Sangre de Cristo peaks in search of gold-flecked fortune.

Some made it, some didn’t, but eventually the gold ceased to pan out in the pitted mines, and most of the mountain men drifted on to other mining areas. Now, Red River’s permanent population is back down to fewer than 300 residents.

To this day, Red River remains a boom-town, though of a different kind. Its charms now draw 3,000 visitors several times a year to a gold mine of ski slopes, hunting and fishing grounds, bicycle tours and square dances. Red River is built around a single Main Street, which is lined with art galleries, craft shops and fine restaurants-including some creditable New Mexican Tex-Mex.

Snow is plentiful in Red River, and the skiing is fine. The first full-scale trails opened in 1959, and another ski area, Powder Puff Mountain (now Woodland Ski Basin) opened in 1963. Those slopes sparked the heavy resort and condominium development in Red River, but it wasn’t long before skiers discovered that Red River is appealing even after the snow melts.

Now, spring and summer sports and amusements have surpassed the ski slopes in popularity. Holiday weekends are packed with family-oriented activities (the American Motorcycle Association gathers in Rea River each Memorial Day weekend for contests and motorcycle fashion shows). On the Fourth of July there’s a parade, a tug of war (with the river in the middle), pie-eating contests, sack races and an old-fashioned outdoor fish fry. Come September, there is much celebration; some 300 cyclists pass through Red River as part of a 100-mile tour of the mountain highways that circle Wheeler Peak, New Mexico’s highest mountain.

But an “occasion” isn’t necessary for a memorable, activity-filled weekend in this small mountain town. There are plenty of places to explore, wonderful meals to devour and crisp, quiet evenings to enjoy.

We were relieved to learn that all the chic galleries and fancy restaurants in Red River haven’t squashed the rugged little town’s rustic charm. We enjoyed the beer-drinking crowd at a country/western joint and had a rip-roaring ride on a log raft down the old lady river herself. But the best part of our weekend was a breath-takingly beautiful -sometimes terrifying – mountain horseback ride. Our guide led us across paths so steep we looked straight down past our saddles’ stirrups to the mountain’s heels some 12,000 feet below.

Jeep rides are a less heart-wrenching alternative to the mountain-pass horseback rides, but don’t spend all your time depending on someone else’s hooves or treads. Take a long mountain hike and carefully explore an abandoned mine shaft. You might want to think ahead and bring a knapsack-those chips of fool’s gold and copper are fun to carry home.

We left Red River reluctantly-the place was one of the most beautiful, friendliest places we’ve ever visited. It lacks the fast-lane reputation of some singles slopes but lives up to its promise of family entertainment.

Red River is accessible from our area by commercial flights to Albuquerque and by bus, rental car or privately chartered flights to Taos. One of the most interesting – though not surprising – facts about Red River is the number of Dallas/Fort Worth residents who spend time here.

Part of the reason Red River is so popular among people from North Texas is anew complex, Lifts West Condominiums,founded by Barney Chapman of FortWorth. Chapman says that more than 50percent of those who own condominiumsin his complex are residents of Dallas orFort Worth. -Kathy Dinsdale