FAR NORTH DALLAS MEAL DEALS

THERE ARE those who have scoffed at the mere notion that edible food -let alone good food – can be had in far North Dallas for just $25 for two. So-just as a knight picks up a gauntlet – we’ve taken up their challenge and have set out to prove their cynicism unjustified.

Ten delicious dinners later, we’re pleased to report that, yes, you can dine well in far North Dallas without necessarily running up a tab that causes cardiac arrest. Remembering a few gentle caveats (such as not larding up your bill or your body with unnecessary appetizers or desserts), it is indeed possible to rise from the table at these restaurants with your wallet and your spirits intact. Herewith is an offering of some of the most varied, delicious and reasonable eateries to be found north of LBJ Freeway. Bon appetit!

Szechuan, 800 S. Floyd Rd., Richardson. 644-8334. From the pu pu tray (featuring cho cho beef with smoky overtones) to fortune cookies, our dining experience here was rated G: Good, with exceptions. The shredded pork with garlic sauce ($5.75) will sound reveille for your taste buds, especially if you think “medium hot” Szechuan dishes should be served medium hot. The snow peas with sliced beef were wonderfully crisp, as were all the attractive sliced vegetables. The major drawback is the rice, which on our visit sported less fluff than a copy of Scientific American. But, covered with a five-star dish like General Gau’s Chicken (a tasty $5.95 amalgam of bell pepper, celery, carrots, onions and strips of chicken), Sze-chuan becomes quite palatable.

Fishmonger’s, 1915 N. Central Expressway, Chisholm Plaza, Piano. 423-3699. The catfish we sampled at Fishmonger’s was so fresh and light that it must have been swimming only hours before we ate it. Fishmonger’s is onto a good thing: It’s both a fish market and a tiny, unpretentious restaurant. Ignore the plastic table-cloths; the friendly service and delicious fish more than compensate. Fishmonger’s offers different fresh fish daily. We chose the swordfish for $8.99, the catfish for $5.95 and the clam chowder (which was creamy, nicely seasoned and loaded with clams). The fish arrived almost immediately. The catfish was batter-fried in butter after being dipped in cornmeal; the swordfish was grilled and served with lemon wedges. Both were tasty and fresh enough to please even the most particular fish lover. Side orders of beans and home-style French fries accompanied the meal, and we finished up happily with a serving of bread pudding soaked in whiskey. A great meal with a great price: $19.15.

Dalts, Sakowitz Village, Dallas Park-way at Belt Line. 386-9078. No list of reasonable restaurants is complete without a recommendation for a place that serves good burgers and beef dishes. Dalts has a complete menu of burgers, chicken, seafood, steaks, assorted appetizers and desserts. A cheery, noisy atmosphere and pleasant service characterize Dalts, and the food is more than just okay. We shared an order of “loaded” potato skins (with cheddar cheese, bacon and sour cream). The grilled sirloin strip steak ($11.95) was a good-size piece of meat – tender and medium-rare, as ordered. A large salad with bean sprouts and fresh tomatoes was a good accompaniment, and the home fries were tasty but a tad greasy. The bacon cheeseburger was standard fare but was still good. This was a satisfying- if predictable -meal, and the price was right: $25.90, including drinks.

Marcello’s, State Highway 5 at East Park Boulevard, Piano. 422-5603. Every city has its plain Italian restaurant just hovering on the brink of “pizza parlor” but that offers pasta at prices so cheap it’s a crime to be fastidious. Marcello’s is such a place. With tables arranged barracks-style in rows and with absolutely no attempt made at decor, this is not the place to impress a date or spend a romantic evening. It is, however, a terrific spot to enjoy baked ziti, lasagna, spaghetti, eggplant Parmesan and other gooey Neopolitan classics. Marcello’s relies on a lot of meat sauce and cheese, and it’s clearly a case of quantity over quality. But if you have an insatiable craving for mounds of cheesy pasta, this is the place to indulge -at $17.82 for three entrees, you can hardly lose. Stick with the red wine by the carafe, the baked ziti, lasagna or manicotti, and you’ll do fine.

Le St. Tropez, Coit and Spring Valley, Richardson. 231-6181. Now this place is a find. A tiny country-French restaurant tucked away in a typical Texas shopping center, Le St. Tropez is a traditional one-man operation, with owner Jacques Bou-guyon also functioning as chef. The menu is limited, but the food is excellent. No alcohol is served, but you may bring your own wine. A la carte entrees range from $9.50 (for the coq au vin) to $12.95 (for the beef filet). Onion and cucumber soups are also available, as are several tempting appetizers, but we heroically bypassed those in the interest of economy and instead chose the special of the day (tourne-dos bordelaise) and the coq au vin. A small dinner salad, nicely dressed with a tarragon-seasoned vinaigrette, came first with crusty, hot French rolls. The tournedos were superb -two thick, juicy chunks of beef in a heavenly wine sauce with sauteed mushrooms. The chicken in wine (a dish that can be ho-hum without the proper treatment) was fine -the chicken was tender, and the sauce was the work of a master hand. Le St. Tropez is also planning to offer a “dinner complet” for $8.50, featuring a different entree each evening plus salad and dessert. Our bill: $22.05.

Kebab ’N Kurry, 401 N. Central Expressway, Richardson. 231-5556. This is a spot for the jaded palate -even those unfamiliar with Indian food can learn to like its specialties. Entrees range from $4.25 to $6.95 and include curries, rice dishes, barbecued fowl and meats prepared in the tandoor (an Indian-style barbecue). We tried the tandoori chicken and the vinda-loo (a beef curry described as “only for the brave”). An unleavened bread called pa-ped was served with two chutneys -one with a lemon and cilantro base; the other, a sweet-and-sour mix containing tamarind. Both were delicious and were excellent garnishes for the main course. The tandoori chicken (marinated in yogurt and spices, then barbecued in a sauce) was good if a trifle underdone in spots. But the vindaloo was terrific – a generous serving (enough for two) containing chunks of tender beef and sliced potatoes in a strong curry sauce. We sampled the onion kul-cha, a soft bread stuffed with onion and cilantro, which, in Indian cooking, is used like parsley. We took a peek in the kitchen, where the cook showed us that the bread is baked in the same kettlelike oven as the barbecued dishes. The service was pleasant, and the waiters took the time to explain the seasonings in each dish. Once again, don’t expect heavy ambiance, just good food at a great price: $17.07.

Don Miguel’s, 5280 Belt Line. 387-2533. There is a place in the world for Mexican restaurant chains; Don Miguel’s holds that place with honor. Putting all pride and prejudice aside, we wonder if in a blindfolded taste test we could tell much difference between the fare here and that at the considerably more expensive Raphael’s. Go during happy hour for tangy half-price frozen margaritas and an order of cheesy bean nachos ($3.65). Follow that with enchiladas banderas (a filling variety of three enchiladas, the best of which is chicken) for $5.50, and an order of Don Miguel’s tacos ($6.75), charcoal-broiled marinated beef with pica de gallo and topped with cheese. We shared a floating island for dessert, though at $2.50 we could have bought two and easily slipped in under our $25 limit – ringing out at $23.90.

Shinano Japanese Restaurant, 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. You know a Japanese restaurant is good when most of the clientele is Japanese. At Shinano we sampled some of the finest Japanese food we’ve had in Dallas. The frills are in the food, not the decor, but it’s a pleasant spot nonetheless. We began with a 75-cent bowl of miso soup (a nicely seasoned broth with fresh vegetables), then tried the oshinko (an appetizer of pickled vegetables). For entrees, we chose the beef and chicken teriyaki at $7.75 and the sashimi teishoku at $8.95. The teriyaki was simply delicious, with a lot of beef and chicken, yummy batter-fried vegetables and a small stuffed biscuit. The sashimi consisted of delicate filets of octopus and tuna (or other fresh fish in season) served with grated radishes and Japanese mustard. My dinner companion, a sashimi addict, rated Shinano outstanding. So was the bill: $20.61.

Andrew’s, 14930 Midway. 385-1613. We visited Andrew’s new, large northern location and found the menu there much more extensive than at the McKinney Ave-nue location. We began with “ultimate mips,” a great, warm plate of potato skins stuffed with bacon, guacamole and sour cream served with picante sauce. The appetizer seemed somehow more nutritious than nachos and was a filling first course. Bleu-cheese burgers, an old Andrew’s favorite, proved as big and cheesy as ever, and a giant slab of Tumbleweed pie made a smooth dessert. Our reviewers enjoyed all this and a couple of St. Pauli Girl beers for $22.05.

Café de France, 2969 W. 15th, Piano. 985-0003. We cheated a bit here-the cafe doesn’t really serve complete dinners. It’s a new French bakery and a small restaurant that’s the perfect spot for a late, light supper after a movie – it’s open until midnight every night. In addition to a glorious selection of pastries, sample the excellent croissant sandwiches and finish off with espresso. A light meal and a light bill: $12.75 for two.