Food and Spirits DINING OUT

The 15 Percent Solution

This is an editorial, sort of. It comes from the heart, in a burst of long-felt need to raise a cry in support of a much-maligned segment of mankind: waiters and waitresses. I’ll keep this short and sweet. The Tip. The Tip is not a gesture of your goodwill. The Tip is not an act of monetary kindness offered in addition to salary. The Tip is the salary. The rules are simple, clear, and fair; it is remarkable that they are so often abused. If you get adequate service, tip 15 percent. If you get better than adequate service, you can tip extra at your discretion. If you get less than adequate service, it’s only fair to assess the cause (kitchen? understaffing?) before subtracting from 15 percent at your discretion. And granted, if your service is miserable because your waiter or waitress is a blunderhead, you can drop food on their shoes, at your discretion.

Now, just to prove that this is a generally likeable breed and worthy of your gratuity, here are a few tales of humanity from the annals of Dallas waiterdom.



Peter*, a waiter at Calluaud, greeted and served a young couple who arrived early in the evening. There were few other customers as they began their meal. They drank wine, though he mostly drank while she mostly abstained. As time went by, he mostly talked and she mostly listened. Into bottle #2, the young gent became increasingly feverish – and noisy – in his conversation, while she became increasingly silent. Peter, catching the drift, tried to divert customers away from nearby tables. Suddenly, to Peter’s shock, the young man shouted painfully, so loud that all could hear, “Why not? Why won’t you sleep with me? It’s natural. Making love is natural. You’re driving me crazy. I can’t stand it. I can’t wait any longer.” The girl turned to Peter, wide-eyed. “Check please,” she said.



Lawrence* approached the table at Daddy’s Money and served the two steaks, one to the buxom lady and the other to the leisure-suited gentleman with the bolo tie. He then brought some more bread and began to turn away when the man drawled, “Hold on, boy. This steak ain’t medium. It’s damn near blood rare.” “I’m sorry, sir,” said Lawrence patiently, eyeing the perfect medium. “I’ll bring you another.” “You do that,” said the man, winking triumphantly at his pretty playmate. Lawrence returned with a second steak, cooked slightly over medium. “How’s that, sir?” he asked. “Like a damn piece a burnt boot, that’s how,” he said, proudly eyeing his little lovely. “Try again.” “Sir,” said Lawrence angrily, “it’s impossible to cook these steaks any closer to medium.” “What?” the man roared. “Boy, are you tryin’ to tell me what’s right? Do you know who I am, son? Do you realize who you’re talkin’ to?” Lawrence cringed, fearing managerial wrath at having offended a distinguished and influential guest. “No sir,” he said, “I’m afraid I don’t.” “Well I’ll tell you then,” the man bellowed. “I happen to own the second biggest damn lumber company in all of Southwestern Oklahoma, that’s who.”



Two guys were sitting at Friday’s eating hamburgers when they called Janet*, their waitress, to the table. “Scuse me, honey,” said one, “but would you do us a big favor? See that pretty thing sitting by herself up there at the bar? Would you go ask her if she’d like to join us over here for a drink? There’ll be a big tip in it for you.” Against her grain but spurred by the lure of the tip, Janet delivered the message and returned to the table with the girl’s reply. “She said you guys make her puke,” Janet reported dutifully. So much for the tip.



Brian*, while waiting on a couple at dinner in a Houston steakhouse, could not help but overhear baseball references in the couple’s conversation, punctuated with phrases from the girl like, “So you think the Rangers are going to trade you, Toby?” It became apparent to Brian, a baseball fan, that this guy, in a bold pickup ploy, was masquerading as Toby Har-rah. Brian couldn’t resist. Bringing a napkin and pen to the table he said, “Excuse me, Mr. Harrah, could I get your autograph?” The guy’s mouth dropped a foot before he recovered and began signing. “Uh, sure,” he said. “But do me a favor and don’t spread it around that I’m here. Privacy, you know.” “Sure, Toby.”



John* had served a splendid Oz meal to the well-dressed couple, who appeared to be in their late thirties. The husband had doted lavishly on his wife throughout the evening, ordering caviar and expensive champagne. John suspected an anniversary. As they finished dessert and sipped brandy, the gentleman addressed his wife in a tone so clear and forthright that John, standing nearby, could hear easily. “My dear,” the man said, “I’ve brought you here to tell you something. I am going to file for divorce tomorrow. And here are the reasons why.” As his wife’s face went blank, and as John stared in astonishment, the man glanced momentarily down to his lap where (John could see but the wife couldn’t) he held several index cards with notes. “Reason number 1,” he said, looking back up at his wife, “We no longer have mutual interests. Number 2, I can no longer respond to your emotional needs.” He shifted cards and cast another downward glance. “Number 3, you have proven not to be upwardly mobile. Number 4 . . .”



The man wanted a cheese board, and surveyed the varied list of unusual cheeses available on La Cave’s menu as Ann* waited for his decision.’’Boring, boring,’’ the man said in a haughty and affected voice. “Such trite selections. Haven’t you anything more interesting? Something exciting?” “We have only what’s listed,” said Ann. “The Pré Clos is very good.” “No, no, no. Dull,” said the man. “Oh wait,” said Ann in a moment of inspiration. “We do have a little bit of Mon-bonbousier left. Very rare. Are you familiar with it?” “Yes, of course,” said the man. “Haven’t had it since Paris. Bring me that.” Her cheese being fictional, Ann served him a wedge of Pré Clos. “How’s the Monbonbousier?” she asked him. “Delightful,” he said contentedly, “though I must say I ordinarily prefer it a bit less ripe.”



The three men, with all the markings of conventioneers, had arrived boisterously at Steak and Ale, already rather sauced. Especially one of the three, who continued to toss down bourbons on the rocks at an alarming rate. As Suzanne* served them, she watched him become increasingly loud, in fact obnoxious, in his joke telling and buddy-buddy blather. Even his two companions appeared somewhat uneasy, looking around in sheepish embarrassment after particularly poignant outbursts. After dinner, though, he quieted rather suddenly, and, to Suzanne’s surprise, leaned back and passed out. His companions asked for the check, which she gave them. A bit later, Suzanne came from the kitchen and noticed the man was still sleeping, but the other two gone. The bill was still on the table. The other two didn’t return. Finally she roused him from his drunken sleep. “I’m sorry,” she explained to him slowly, “but your two friends are gone and I’m afraid they left you with the bill.” Blinking with returning awareness, he fumbled for his wallet. “Well those sons a bitches,” he slurred. “Why next time I get ahold of them . . .” He paused as he flopped down his Master Charge, and then tugged Suzanne by the arm. “Hey,” he muttered in confusion, “Who were those guys, anyway?”

– David Bauer



Newcomers



Bananas, Jubilee, Hippopotamus. Sounds like two desserts and one very hearty main dish. Actually, these are the latest additions to the restaurant warren in the Greenville-Park Lane area. Not even additions, really, since each of these is a rebirth of a defunct restaurant. Bananas fills the spot once occupied by Marvin’s Garden; Jubilee succeeds Yamin’s Iliad; and Hippopotamus replaces the shortlived Golden Skewer.

Located in The Market at Old Vickery Square, Bananas has the best fake alfresco dining room this side of II Sorrento. Plants, baskets, banners, plus occasionally someone staring into your salad from one of the apartments above, give the place a relaxed, airy feel, although where you are supposed to be is something of a mystery. At lunchtime, Bananas is mainly a salad and club sandwich place, with quiche and a daily special thrown in for variety. The lime red snapper we tried was overcooked, and the cream of spinach soup too salty, but the shrimp bowl was bountiful and tasty. There are also some nice extras, like banana muffins and a sample of a Banana Fling, a luscious rum and banana liqueur concoction that can leave a blank spot in the middle of your day. At night, things become more ambitious but never exotic. There’s a mon-tego strip, fancy name for an ordinary eight-ounce steak, a beef burgundy, excellent meat but rather puzzling sauce, and skillet shrimp, lightly seasoned and not fried in that thick, doughy batter that tastes like wallpaper paste. Terrific. For dessert, you’re out of luck unless you like bananas. If you do, try a slice of banana cream pie or a dish of fried bananas and hot fudge. Very rich, very good. The owners are very attentive and the service is quick and efficient. If a few of the inconsistencies in the kitchen can be worked out, Bananas might make it. (7001 Fair Oaks/368-8097/Lunch: 11-2; Dinner: 4:30-11/ReservationslMC, AE, V/$$)



It’s difficult to feel quite so optimistic about Jubilee for the simple reason that it’s difficult to determine what they’re up to, other than copying homecooking, family-style restaurants like Celebration. The decor is surprisingly plain and unpretentious for Greenville Avenue, but unfortunately that’s where the delights end. Our nachos were both soggy and burnt, quite a trick really, and the pot roast was chewy and tasteless, although it was cut in thick slices the way it should be. The baked chicken was satisfactory, but the meat loaf was dry and topped with a tomato sauce that was mostly, perhaps totally, ketchup. Good homemade apple cobbler and a very solid wine list. But man does not live by wine and apple cobbler alone. The waiters try hard but tend to come back from the kitchen looking frazzled and glassy-eyed. That’s where the problems are, all right, and if they aren’t solved look for Jubilee to turn rather quickly into a bar or a disco. (6940 Greenville Avenuel692-5722/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: 5:30-11:00/ No reservations/All credit cards/$$)



There’s not one African dish on the Hippopotamus menu, but you can find something from almost everywhere else: Greek salads, kebobs, cabrito, a large selection of pasta dishes, paella. It’s the kind of continental menu that might have been put together by National Geographic and, as you’d expect with such a range, the results are uneven. The paella was excellent, made with good fish and sausage and served on a bed of fluffy rather than soggy rice, but the shrimp kebob was only so-so. Who invented this characterless dish anyway? A good veal marsala, though the sauce was a bit heavy for my taste, but a disappointing shrimp and avocado salad. The shrimp were drowned in some kind of pink dressing that was neither piquant nor pretty. I liked the seafood gumbo but thought the strawberry mousse (forgot about France) tasted like Junket. All of which says promising but erratic. Although it’s pleasant to have a wide choice of dishes. Hippopotamus might be better off trying to do fewer things superbly. Also, their image might be improved by removing the flashing plastic sign out front. It looks as though it belongs at a topless bar. (6782 Greenville Avenue/368-0963/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, until 11:30 Fri & Sat/ Closed Sunday/Reservations/All credit cards/$$)



Meanwhile, on the other side of town in Swingles West, the Bachman Lake area, three more restaurants have opened. If the Greenville-Park newcomers were undistinguished, the ones that recently arrived on the shores of Bachman are disastrous.



H. B. Sparrow’s is another one of those silly places now covering Dallas like kud-zu covers Mississippi: plants, turn-of-the-century graphics, Ex Lax signs, ornate floor length mirrors, big bar witn peanut shells littering the floor – they don’t miss a single tired trick. Except, again as usual, where the food is concerned. On a recent visit, the beer was, we thought, as well-watered as the luxuriant plants, and the strawberry daiquiri seemed to be flavored with jello. The drinks were so bad to begin with that not even the fact that they came in mason jars could harm them. The fried zucchini appetizer was fresh and good, but nobody wants a flower pot of salad, huge and discouraging, with a really terrible French dressing. The Hawaiian chicken, marinated in a teriyaki sauce and served with pineapple, was tasty, though it had too much fat and skin to be just right. The 7-oz. filet on the combo plate was tender and well-prepared, but the broccoli was overcooked and too salty, and had to be paid for separately besides, as did the baked potato. The cheesecake was hard and covered generously with cherry pie filling. In all fairness, the food is ample, but who cares? (2371 W NW Hwy/350-5736/Mon-Thu 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 12, Sun till 10:30/ No reservations/MC, V, AE, DCI$$)



Overtake Bellringer is a poor man’s elan: weak drinks, rows of backgammon boards, a tired but thirsty singles crowd, and tons of awful food cheap. We got big crocks of soup, bowls of pretty good “Beggar Stew” (free refills; we didn’t). The vegetables were pathetic, including a really godawful stringy spinach. The chicken fried steak with cream gravy was good, but the rolls that came with it were burned and even the baked potato was mealy, charred, and desultorily seasoned. The other “main dish” was a cheeseburger (half the skimpy and unimaginative menu consisted of variations on hamburger) served on an utterly stale bun, the kind that crumbles in your hands. The whole affair was so long in arriving we thought it had come by slow boat from Hamburg. Pictures of the clientele line the walls, but the background seems to be the bar across the wall from the “dining room.” Four tables out of thirty-odd were occupied between six and eight p.m. on the weeknight we dropped in. The bar patrons ringing their bells clearly knew something about the “restaurant” section it didn’t take us long to discover. (9525 Overtake/ 350-5541/11 a.m.-2 a.m. weekdays, 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Sundays/Reservations/MC, AE, DC/$$)



Sleepy Hollow advertises itself as a family restaurant and the food is served “family style,” which means the vegetables come in bowls for passing. And, just like at home, the menu is limited – two steaks, 10 and 14 oz., fried chicken, and a child’s plate. With the entrees come potatoes, biscuits and gravy, green peas, salad, and sherbet. Portions are enormous, but all this sounds a lot better than it is. In a town with pretty good fried chicken, Sleepy Hollow’s pan fried variety was worse than so-so, and the steak which at first bite was tender, thick, and juicy, turned out to tend toward fat and gristle. But the greatest disappointments were the “family” offerings, items which cost very little to serve and which could have made Sleepy Hollow’s reputation. The cream gravy managed to be bland and salty at the same time, the green peas were unrecognizable except by shape, and the homemade biscuits were so heavy that they could have been used as ammunition. The butter and honey on our table thus went untouched. Numbers of waitresses milled around the several large dining rooms, almost a separate one for each of our family style inedibles. Conclusion: Sleepy Hollow is for people who are hollow with hunger and too sleepy to care what they eat. (9900 Starlight Rd off NW Hwy/ 357-0259/Daily 5-11/Reservations/MC, V, AE, DC/$$)

Recipe

Beautiful Soup



People line up Saturday noon at The Black Forest Bakery deli, waiting for tables. Some of them spend the few minutes eyeing the pastries in the bakery, trying to decide between a napoleon, a rum tart, or an eclair. Others contemplate the cans of imported truffles and jars of chutney and Greek olives. The most contented by far are the habitues of the place whose eyes light up at the announcement on the blackboard up front that it’s a Swiss Cheese Soup day.

“It’s the best soup in town,” Danny Dreyfus tells us, and he just may be right. Light but creamy, the golden yellow soup has the flavor of good Swiss cheese without the heaviness. Six years ago, when Danny opened the deli, the recipe was the gift of a friend who came to cook and to help the new venture off to a good start. It became an immediate favorite.

Swiss-born Danny, a pastry chef who has worked at fine European hotels, came to Texas to assist in the opening of the Sheraton Dallas. Here Danny met Elvira, now his wife and business manager, who is also Swiss. In September of 1961, just after they married, the two opened a small bakery named for the popular Black Forest Cake they planned to feature. Today they have three locations, and some of the most satisfied customers around, particularly on Swiss Cheese Soup day.

6 T. butter

6 T. flour

1 red onion, diced

1carrot, diced

2stalks celery, diced

1 1/2 qt. chicken stock

1 qt. milk (substitute part cream if you like)

8 to 10 oz. Swiss cheese, grated

In a heavy iron soup kettle, sauté the vegetables in butter for five minutes. Add flour and mix. Add chicken stock gradually, stirring constantly, until smooth. Bring to a boil and simmer for a few minutes. Remove vegetables with slotted spoon and discard. Add the milk, bring to the boiling point, and simmer for five minutes. Add the grated cheese and stir vigorously with wire whip till it is melted. Do not boil. Add salt and white pepper to taste.

The cheese is a little hard to melt. We got the best results by stirring it into only a portion of the hot soup at first and gradually adding the remaining liquid. As the soup cools, the cheese will thicken again. Don’t worry -just warm, stir, and serve. As with cheese fondue, the part at the bottom of the pot is the best anyway.

Recommended Restaurants



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit then, that we recommend all of them highly.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general price range.

$ – Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ – Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ – Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $10 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ – Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC – Master Charge/AE – American Express/DC – Diner’s Club/CB – Carte Blanche/V – Visa/’AII Credit Cards” indicates that all the above are accepted.



Continental



Arthur’s. Once a rustic steakhouse, now a shimmering beef palace Steak remains the pillar of the operation, but other options abound: lamb chops, veal chops, and calf’s liver to name a few favorites American wines only – an intriguing and imaginative touch. Warm and classy with one of Dallas’ best bars. Live entertainment. (1000 Campbell Centrel361-8833ILunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2. Dinner Daily 6-11. Sat till midnightl Reservations/All credit cardsl$$$)

D REVISITS

Bagatelle. There has always been a keyword in describing Baga- telle. and it still applies: comfortable. The designers here found that elusive balance between the elegant and the casual – what you’ll find is sophistication mixed with, well, comfort. The menu reflects a similar kind of blend, classy French specialties but with an easy, understated style. Bagatelle has never exhibited mind-boggling artistry, but they’ve never served us a bad dinner either. Recent visits kept that track record intact: the tournedos “cafe royale” was simple and superb, as good a version of tournedos as you’re likely to find anywhere; and the newest menu addition, pheasant under glass, while always difficult to justify with its price tag, was a rich and intriguing variation. The only letdown was the bland and slightly chewy duck Normande. You never know about the service here – at one meal we got a well-paced performance, at the next we got the hustle. But it was still, of course, comfortable. On the other side of the kitchen is the Plaza Cafe, the Bagatelle’s kid sister, a kind of glorified. Frenchified coffee shop. The only real attraction here is the outdoor terrace. We’ve said before that there just aren’t many such places to eat al fresco in Dallas and it’s still true. And now are the best months for a bite under the umbrellas. Good salads (the house dressing here is a distinguished one), varied cold buffet (including sockeye salmon), soups, sandwiches, a few hot entrees. The wind gets occasionally blustery out here; if things get chilly, you have two options: warm up with one of their vast array of espressos – or go inside. (One Energy Square, Greenville at University/ 692-8224/Bagatelle: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sun brunch 10:30-2:30, Dinner Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 11, bar till 2; Plaza: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Dinner Mon-Sat 6-midnight/ Reservations/MC, V, AE. DC/$$-$$$)

Le Bistro. Such a lovely, lovely restaurant But such a time they have trying to get things right in the kitchen There is not a more charming place in Dallas to enjoy French foods than this gracious old two-story house But while waiting for your dinner, cross your fingers – Le Bistro is never bad. but often just isn’t as good as you expect it to be. its problem from the beginning But opt for the simpler dishes, enjoy the surroundings, finish with a cold almond souffle, and you II leave with a smile. (3716 Bowser. just off Oak Lawnl528-4181 ITue-Sun 6-10p.m.. except Fri 4 Sat till 11 p.m. closed MonlReservationslMC. V. AEI$$$)

Brasserie. The most elegant “coffee shop” in town In the wee hours of the morning (they’re open 24 hours), stop by to treat yourself to Dallas’ best Eggs Benedict – sprinkled with truffles (at 3 a.m they bother?), or a sandwich of sirloin on crisp, buttery French bread During the other hours, especially lunch, the tare is mostly overpriced and undistinguished (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard 748-5454/24 hours, seven days a week/ No reservations/MC, V, AE, DCI$$)

Calluaud. One of Dallas’ most civilized restaurants. Set in a small frame house,with a casual yet intimate atmosphere complemented by consistently fine French foods Superb soups and excellent omelettes, and desserts not to be missed simple and wonderful fruit tarts (try the apple) and exquisite profiteroles. The imaginative dinner menu changes frequently but recently featured a fabulous roast duck and Guy Calluaud’s superb Veau Normande. For lunch, the filet of sole is an excellent alternative if for some reason you want to pass up the omelettes. Prices are a bargain for the quality. It’s easy to get hooked on this place. (29l7 Fairmount off Cedar Springs/742-8525l Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m. -2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30; Sal till 11, closed SunlReservationslMC, V, AE/$$$)

Chabiis. An odd little French restaurant, difficult to put your finger on – the style is neither elegant nor quaint. But the food, while in some instances overpriced, is decidedly good. At dinner, a tasty complimentary rillettes, a fine pepper steak, and a subtly glazed roast duckling are highlights Lunch leans to lighter regional specialties and sandwiches. Light flaky bread (with a very “French” flavor) and the sweetest, richest chocolate mousse in town. (120 Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/522-0910l Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon- Thur 6-11,Fri & Sat till midnight. closed Sun/Reservations on weekends/MC, V, AE, DCI$$$)

Chateaubriand.A wide-ranging menu, with everything from sweetbreads to frog legs to lobster to veal parmigiana. and a high percentage of it is quite well-executed The standouts, interestingly, are the Greek specialties: try the pastitsa and dolma appetizer and the Greek veal” in a pleasant lemon-butter-oregano sauce Chateaubriand’s old-fashioned overdressed style is not to all tastes, but is nothing special (2515 McKinney/741-1223/Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m. -midnight/Reservations/AII credit cards/$$$)

The Chimney. An unpretentious Swiss-Austrian restaurant that specializes in excellent veal, ranging from a simple lemon veal to more extravagant preparations Also one of the few places where you can have venison. And for dessert, have the excellent home-made cheesecake. At lunch, the fare is strictly ladies’ tearoom, though it’s one of the best of its kind. Attentive service, and a nice atmosphere (though the piano is placed too close to some of the tables to make conversation comfortable) (Willow creek. 9739 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill/369-6466/ Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2, Dinner; Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2/Reservations/MC,AE,DC/$$$)

Ewald’t. Loyal regulars flock to this old standard, whose decor and menu have changed very little over the years. The style is sort of continental home-cooking: more hearty than delicate, more homey than classy. The veal is excellent, though some preparations are over-embellished. Try the veal Papagallo with Canadian bacon and Swiss cheese or the veal Picatta-Milanese. Excellent pepper steak and “Tenderloin Tips a la Ewald.” And a rarity – well-prepared fresh vegetables. Have a side order of spaetzli if your entree doesn’t come with it, and conclude with the Black Forest cake. No frills, but few disappointments, either. (5415 W Lovers Ln/357-1622/Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11/Reservations/MC, V/$$$)

The Grape. An old favorite with some new delights, especially at lunch, which has become more adventurous. The beef dishes, particularly the tournedos béarnaise and the boeuf à la mode, are outstanding. Other delights are the escargots aux champignons and the omelette aux crevettes chinoise (with shrimp, mushrooms, and bean sprouts). The mushroom soup is famous, but the potage au Tripoli, a chickpea soup with herbs and spices, is a new winner. Still hard to beat tor the money (2808 Greenville Avenue/823-0133/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner Tue-Sun, 6-10:30. open later on Fri & Sat for wine and cheese only/No reservations/No credit cards/$$)

Marcel’s. Marcel is a charming host in the classic French tradition; it’s that French feeling that has made this a long-popular restaurant. That and a complete table d’ hote dinner lor only $6 50 – not the finest French cuisine in the city but certainly the best priced. Beef Wellington is the house specialty, but the real star may be the coq au vin Rafaxed, quiet dining. (5721 W Lovers Lnl358-2103 ISun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat till midnight. Closed Monl ReservationslMC, V, AE, DCI$$)



D REVISITS

Mr. Peppe. Old-timers swear by Mr. Peppe: newcomers visit and wonder why. Certainly the place is in dire need of some sprucing up. Ten years ago. when the restaurant was one of your few choices if you wanted continental cuisine, it may have seemed cozy; now it just seems drab. Which is a shame, because the food is certainly superior to that in some of the flash and filigree places that have sprung up around town, though it can no longer be taken seriously as a “best restaurant in town” contender. The pepper steak, for example, is deliciously seasoned and on our last visit was perfectly cooked. Unfortunately, it was only a mediocre, rather stringy cut of beef. Vegetables were imaginatively seasoned but overcooked. The evening’s special, veal madeira, was too heavy with sauce – the flavor of the veal was masked. Appetizers and salads were disappointing, but the “Torte glacée Grand Marnier” was a winner of a dessert. Loyalists have fond memories of grand meals at Mr. Peppe’s, so we can only repeat our previous warnings about inconsistencies. (5677 W Lovers Lnl352-5976IMon-Sat 6-10/Reservations/MC, V, AE, DCI$$$)



Old Warsaw. The “new Old Warsaw” – after some tasteful remodeling of the interior and some successful revamping of the menu – is on the upswing. The place is less gilded, more engaging. The new menu is less erratic, more interesting. New treats: a pate of duck, créme de Cresson (puree of watercress), and a splendid Cote de Veau. Also a nightly selection of “Nouvelle Cuisine.” the reduced-calorie style popularized by Paul Bocuse. The prices were not remodeled – still very expensive – but now the paying is less painful. (2510 Maple/528-0032/Daily 6-11. Sat till midnightlReservationslMC, V, AE, DCI$$$$)

Patry’s. When the Patry family is at work, you can’t go wrong. Start with the poireaux farcis (stuffed leeks) or the delicate. Iight, near-perfect vichyssoise, then have any of the superb entrees: a wonderful coq au vin, a filet in a flawless béarnaise, or their splendid escalope of veal. The place itself is a bit sterile except for their terrific – and very French – little bar. (2504 McKinneyl748-3754ITue-Fri. 6-11. Sat till I1:30IReservationslMC, V, AE, DCI$$$)

Pyramid Room. The classiest dining room in Dallas – an aura of affluence and impeccable taste. A paragon of service – absolutely professional but without pomposity. including a theatrical sommelier. A dizzying dinner menu of French specialties of the highest order (lunch is less glamorous). The Grand Mamier dessert souffle is a triumph. In sum, Dallas’ finest restaurant. But even at that, capable of disappointment because it is so expensive. Too expensive But always a pleasure if you can pay the price. (Fairmont Hotel, floss & Akardl748-5454ILunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner. Daily 6-midnightlReservationslAII credit cardsl$$$$)

Italian



Campisi’t. The sign says “Egyptian Restaurant,” but the place is strictly Italian; carried on in the proud family tradition of papa Carlo Campisi, whose portrait still watches over the proceedings. Dallas’ original pizza specialists – and still the best. Or try the platefull of sausage and peppers. Warm (in fact steamy) and wonderful – and always a waiting line to prove it. (5610 E Mockingbird/ 827-0355IMon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., Sun noon-midnightINo credit cards. Checks accepted/Reservations for 6 or morel$)

lanni’s. An undistinguished shopping center facade, an entry lobby tacked with Dallas sports photos and celebrity glossies, and a dining room that’s a vineyard of plastic grapes doesn’t bode well. But lanni’s can surprise you. It’s relaxed and unpretentious – a throwback to simpler dining. The waitresses are pros and the kitchen is sound if not stunning And the homemade Italian sausage is as good as any in town (2230 Greenvillel826-6161/Daily 5 30-11 p.m. IReservationslMC,AE/$$)

II Sorrento. The best Italian food in Dallas in a marvelously hokey setting – like a Hollywood designer’s dream of Venice, complete with strolling musicians and bread vendors The fettucine Alfredo and the tagliatelle – both prepared at your table – are standouts among the pasta dishes, the veal dishes are crowned by the Marsala and piccata. Be warned that even with a reservation you may be forced to bide time waiting in the bar (8616 Turtle Creek (North of NW Hwy)l352-8759IDaily 5:30-11. Sat till midnightlReservattons except on Fri & Sat/All credit cardsl$$$)



D REVISITS



Italian Pavilion. Most hotel restaurants are content to serve their in-house clientele, the poor out-of-towner too bushed, too lost to go foraging for a really fine meal off the premises. Not so the Italian Pavilion, atop the LeBaron Hotel, where both travelers and Dallas natives can find some of the best Italian cuisine around. An elevator ride to the top floor brings you to a snooty dining room, but a window table compensates for the tacky decor with an expressway-skyline panorama. Among the appetizers, lasagne slices were less of a success than the hot antipasto. a steaming, delicious plate of escargots, lobster, scampi, ana clams. choose soups and salads with caution. At a recent dinner sampling, a too-heavy Caesar salad followed a good (though over-salted) minestrone. The veal entrees, however, are real standouts. A subtle sauce and generous portions of crab meat on scallop makes veal Fiorentina well worth a try, and veal Gaetano. with madeira sauce and mushrooms, was a winner. Service at Italian Pavilion is haphazard: amiable but deadly slow. Sampling an interesting and moderately priced Italian wine list enlivens the waiting between courses. By all means, try their glorious cappuccino, made in a huge polished copper steamer that dominates the bar. (Le Baron Hotel, 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Fwyl634-85501 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2, Dinner: Mon- Thu 6-11. Fri-Sat 6-11:30; closed Sun/Reservations/ All credit cards/$$$)



Lombardi’s. No gimmicks, just a delightfully remodeled old house where they serve excellent Italian food at reasonable prices. The lasagna (the lightest version imaginable) and the saltimbocca are standouts – maybe the best in town The manicotti is made with a crepe-like pasta, the pork parmigiana is an unusual delight and the rich green-noodle fettucine is outstanding A warning on the minestrone: it is thick and flavorful but stew-like – an appetite killer And there are occasional lunch-time gaffes such as an overcooked, over-breaded veal cutlet But everyone is eager to please at Lombardi’s. the service is sophisticated and responsive (2815 McKinney Ave/823-6040/Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30, Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat till 11/ReservationslMC, V, AE/$$$)

Mario’s. One of few Dallas restaurants to take the sophisti-cated approach and do so with dignity, with natural elegance A longstanding family success, so there is an air of confidence and pride. Delicious roquefort-based cheese spread (complimentary), dense and delicious French bread loaves, marvelous fried zucchini. Try the “Frittura Delizie Romana.” a batter fried spinach appetizer Entrees (northern Italian specialties) are stylish but not exceptional. Splendid wine list. (135 Turtle Creek Viltage/521-1135/Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Pietro’s. ln a city without neighborhood restaurants. Pietro’s comes closest to what you’d find in. say. the North End of Boston – homestyle Sicilian cooking with scads of loyal patrons The pasta dishes are the best bets, though Pietro’s veal scallopini é la Siciliano is excellent Have the créme caramel for dessert Friendly, brisk service, though the “No reservations” policy means you’ll have to wait It’s usually worth it (5722 Richmond off Greenville/824-9403/ Tue-Thur 5:30-10 p.m. Fri & Sat till 11 p.m.INo reservations/ No credit cards/$$)



Oriental



China Inn. A competent, dependable Chinese restaurant, crowded even on weekdays Definitely better at dinner than at lunch. Good appetizers, well-prepared sweet and sour dishes The standouts are ginger beef, crackling with mildly hot slices of ginger, and war sue har, delicately fried shrimp with a delicious red sauce. Amiable and quick service, (6521 E NW Hwy/361-7733ILunch: Mon-Fri 11-2 p.m.; Dinner Mon-Thur5-10:30p.m ,Fri-Sat 5-midnight: Sun 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m./Reservationslor5or morelMC, V, AEI$$)

Chinese Pavilion. The menu here is identical to that of Hunan, the restaurant that spawned this one. Be adventurous and put yourself in the waiter’s hands. For $8 per person you’ll be treated to a multicourse dinner featuring the chef’s Hunan and Szechuan-style specialties. And the crabmeat and corn soup is a must (European Crossroads, 2829 W Northwest Hwyl357-5777ISun- Thur 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri & Sat till midnight/Reservations/MC, V, AEI$$)

Hunan. Currently Dallas’ best Chinese restaurant. The Hunan cuisine that is its specialty is milder than you’ll find in New York, but still potent Have the “pu pu tray” of appetizers, and then you’re on your own – it’s all good (though we recommend Hunan Lamb, Champagne Chicken, and Shrimp with Garlic Sauce). Small and comfortable. (5214 Greenville Ave at Lovers Ln/369-4578IMon-Thur 11:30a.m. -11 p.m., Fri,Sat&Sun 11-midnightlReservationsl MC, V, AE/$$)

Peking Palace. Once Dallas’ Oriental best, but it hasn’t quite kept up with the booming competition Too many items taste warmed-over, but the Szechuan-style selections are. for the most part, excellent (try the shredded pork with garlic sauce). And the Won Ton soup is the best in town And still the most pleasant dining room of any Dallas Oriental restaurant (4119 Lomo Altol522-1830l Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-11,Fri & Sat till midnight. Sun noon-10 p.m. /Reservations on week-ends/MC, V, AE/$$)

Ports O’Call. The menu now docks in many new ports (wiener schnitzel from Germany, steak au poivre from France, etc.). though the featured fare is still mostly Polynesian. And nothing special at that – but then that’s never been the appeal here anyway. The attractions are the lavish (almost ludicrous) dining rooms, the 37th floor view with the “bio-city” feeling, and the exotic rum concoctions in the tiki-god-and-blowfish bar – try the Test Pilot, limit 2 per customer (Southland Center. 2117 Live Oak/742-2334/Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 5:30-10:30/ Reservations/All credit cardsl$$$)

Royal Tokyo. As far as service and consistency of cuisine are concerned. Royal Tokyo seems to have risen from its period of decline. But it’s not quite the star it once was. Perhaps the competition has forced it to Americanize its menu, because the sauces and seasonings are anything but delicate. A pity, because real Japanese cuisine is among the most subtle in the world. Still a pleasantly-appointed place. Try the shabu-shabu, a variation on sukiyaki (7525 Greenville Avel368-3304/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2, except Sat; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30- 11,Fri & Sat till 11:30. Sun 5-10/ReservationslMC, V, AE. DCI$$$)

South China. Quiet and consistent. South China continues to distinguish itself from the ever-increasing hordes of competitors. The combination appetizer plate is perhaps the best in Dallas and the Mandarin specialties that follow usually keep up the pace; fine sizzling rice soup, moo shi pork, beef with green onion and ginger, and tantalizing sweet and sour shrimp Black bean sauce is a favorite here – try it over the braised chicken and you’ll see why Their new spinoff restaurant, Chu’s in Addison. shows promise of being even better (5424 E Mocking-bird/826-5420/Lunch Daily 11:30-2:30 Sal & Sun noon-2 30; Dinner: Mon-Thu 5-11. Fri & Sat 5-12. Sun 5-10./ ReservationslMC, V, AEI$$)

Trader Vic’s. Have fun, but don’t expect anything sublime here – they cover too much ground to have any specialties except the wacky drinks (gardenias floating in rum punch, and so on). The creamed curry dishes are nice, the Indonesian lamb interesting. and the Chinese dishes varied but over-sweet. But while the mood may be fun, the prices are serious. Just have another Samoan Fog Cutter and you may not even notice. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Cen Expwyl827-3620IDaily 5-11:30 p.m., weekends till midnight/Reservations/All credit cardsl$$$)



Mexican



Adelante. An odd little spot in an almost secretive behind-the-shopping-center location. But once you find it, you’ll surely find your way back. Fantastic and unique Mexican food graced with flair and freshness. Thin, grease-tinged tostados made on the spot, nachos buried in fresh relishes, flautas with fabulous guacamole, delicate green chile quiche, and an egg and tortilla dish called “Chilaquiles” – both subtle and exotic. And don’t pass up the unbelievable praline cheesecake. Bar “by membership.” (5934 RoyalLanel691-8301IMon-Thur 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri & Sat till 10 p.m., closed SunINo reservationsl MC, V, AEI$)

chiquita. One of the most cheerful restaurants in town, and – at least where Mexican food is concerned – one of the best. Tex-Mex has never been Chiquita’s forte, but they serve some sensational specialties, like an excellent tortilla soup and fabulous chicken sour cream enchiladas In their new location they’ve stopped serving complimentary cups of bean soup, so order some – it may be the best this side of the border. Always crowded, but always delightful. (3810 Congress, off Oak Lawn/521-0721/Mon-Sat 11:30-1 11/No reservations/MC, V, AE/$$)

El Taxco. Maybe the best dining value in Dallas. Dependable Tex-Mex right down to the retried beans just the way they ought to be – and at very low prices. A subtle style with less hot seasonings make it an especially good spot for newcomers to Mexican food. A casual, friendly cafe (2126 N St. Paul/742-0747/Wed-Mon 10:30 a.m. -9 p.m., closed TueINo reservations/MC /$)

Herrera Cafe. Home-cooked Tex-Mex from two odd locations. The ludicrous-looking newer version on Lemmon Avenue serves the same great food as the original adobe hole-in-the-wall on Maple. But at the Lemmon location, quality is not a certainty Visit Maple for good old fat flour tortillas hot off the grill, wonderful burritos, great guacamole. And the menudo is a community tradition. (3902 Maple/ 526-9427/Weekdays 9 a.m.8 p.m., closed Mon/No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Raphael’s. The ever-present waiting line tells you how good it is. But popularity does have its problems – the hustle-bustle can be nerve-wracking and weekends are hopeless. But if you can hit a lull in the action, the warm ranch-house atmosphere is lovely. And the food will likely be at its best. Bypass the Tex-Mex and dive into the specialties: chicken mole, shrimp enchiladas, and chiles rellenos – a dependable favorite. And maybe best of all. the carne Tampiquena or the polio Tampiqueno – they can make the waiting worth it. (3701 McKinney/521-9640IMon-Fri 11:30 a.m. -10:30 p.m. Sat noon-10:30. closed Sun/Reservations Mon- Thur only/MC, V, AE/$$)



Greek

Greek Key. A lively and longstanding favorite marked by belly dancing, customer participation, and other revelry But the kitchen is serious, doing a creditable job of filling the Dallas Greek food void. Dolmas, pastitso, spanakopita, moussaka (or try the combination plate). Forgo the “Grecian shimp.” but don’t pass up the baklava delicately seasoned with walnuts and honey, finished off by a demi-tasse of heavy Greek coffee. (2903 W Northwest Hwy/358-5177/ Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 p.m., closed Sun/All credit cards/Re-servationsl$$)

Goldfinger. More successful as a lively, raucous nightclub than as a restaurant, but Goldfinger does provide some of the city’s best Greek food – a woefully limited aspect of Dallas’ cuisine. So, while you’re clapping and singing with the Greek musicians, try the flaming saganaki. the avgolemeno soup, the shrimp and meat kostas, and the veal venetikia. And the dolmas are a must. (2905 Cridelle at W Northwest Hwy/350-6983IMon-Fri 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sat-Sun 6 p.m. -2 a.m.IReservationslAII credit cardsl$$$)



Indian

India House. An authentic representation of Indian cuisine. The uninitiated may find it all a bit exotic – but a culture shock made pleasant by the helpful guidance of the staff (or try the Shahi House Dinner for a broad sampling). Aficionados of the Indian tradition may find the preparation lacking perfection, but with so much to choose from, danger of disappointment is slight. Something is sure to please – or at least to surprise. (5422 E Mockingbird/ 823-1000/Lunch: Daily 11:30-230. Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10. Fri & Sat till 11/Reservations/All credit cards/$$)



Southern Specialties



Celebration. Some of the homestyle pride seems occasionally to be missing from the homestyle cooking since the expansion of this friendly place But still a good spot for a wholesome meal at a reasonable price Pot roast is the best of the five entrees. Plus big bowls of good family-style-help-yourselt vegetables. Beer and wine are available now, but try the apple juice at least once – it’s great. (4503 W Lovers Lnl351-5681/Mon-Sat 5:30-11. Sun till 10 30/No reservationslMC, VI$)

Red Moon Cafe. Cozy, charming, almost romantic – a purely pleasant little place The menu has Creole overtones gumbo (the real thing), crawfish, chicken “Jambalaya.” pork chops Creole ” But perhaps their most winning dish has nothing to do with New Orleans – fettucine that ranks with the best in town Nice fresh seafood specials – they’ve done some wonderful things with trout Open lor breakfast, but nothing special, unless coffee is your passion Their chicory version has no peer (4537 Cole/ 526-5391/Mon-Sat 7-2:30. 6-10INo reservations/No credit cardsl$)

Sonny Bryan’s. Best barbecue in town? You’ll never get a consensus, but this one gets a lot of votes. Juicy, juicy stuff in a funky, funky little smokehouse. No tables – you eat on individual school desk tops. Beer, no bar. (2202 lnwoodl357-7120IMon-Sat 6 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Sun 1 l-2INo reservations/No credit cardsI$)



Natural Foods



Health Nut. Dallas’ original lull-scale natural foods restaurant – and still a unique institution – is comfortably settled now in its airy and attractive Lovers Lane location, crowned by a lovely sun-terrace room upstairs. Good sandwiches, light and imaginative soups, and wonderful salads – a fresh vegetable salad with tahini dressing or, even better, a fresh fruit salad in a delicious lemon-honey dressing. A special steamed meal daily {Tuesday is Mexican and Wednesday is Oriental) And, of course, smoothies. (4356 W Lovers Lane/692-1411/Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-9 p.m./No re-servations/MCI$)



Seafood



Oporto. Disappointing, but still one of your few options when you want seafood. Stick with the simplest things – the excellent oysters and the good, thick gumbo – avoid anything with a heavy sauce. Even the plainer items are sometimes overcooked, but the broiled scrod and the trout meuniére have sometimes been rewarding choices. Certainly the nicest atmosphere of any Dallas seafood restaurant, and the bar is excellent. (2929 N Henderson/ 826-2553/Daily 5-11 p.m., Fri & Sat till midnight/No res-en/ations/V, AEI$$)

S & D Oyster Company. Excellent oysters and shrimp and a few broiled fish – usually snapper or trout – when they’re available. They wisely avoid the fancier stuff – crab or lobster or clams – that has to be shipped in frozen. Simplicity of preparation is the key to this restaurant’s well-deserved success. For lunch, the oyster loaf – fried oysters on a French roll with tartar sauce – is a good choice. For dinner, have some boiled shrimp for starters and finish off with their home-made pie. A bit noisy, but the place is for eaters as opposed to diners. Beer and wine only. (2701 McKinney near Routhl823-6350IMon-Thur 11 a.m.-10 pm., Fri & Sat till 11, closed SunINo reservationslMCI$$)



Delicatessens



Black Forest Austrian-style food – sausages, salamis, coffee cakes, breads, a lovely cold cut platter, and excellent sandwiches Try the veal sausages with hash browns and black bread, and any of the pastries. Excellent selection of German beers and wines. (5819 Blackwell off Northwest Hwy/368-4490IMon-Fri 8 a.m. -6 p.m., Sat till 5 p.m.I no reservations/VI$)

Kuby’s. Busy and bustling. Excellent homemade sausages (served with hot potato salad or sauerkraut), thick sandwiches (try the pastrami), great pastries, and a soup of the day which is a lunchtime bargain (70￠). A congenial spot with a German accent. (6601 Snider Plazal363-2231IMon -Sat 8 30-2:30, sandwiches till 5:30/Mo reservationslMC – $15 minimum/$)

Walls. A worthwhile stop for displaced New Yorkers and insatiable corned beef fans, though its reputation as the best for kosher-style food in Dallas is earned mainly by default. The kosher standards – gefilte fish, herring in sour cream, cheese blintzes – are very tasty, but the quality of food and service is uneven Except for the disappointing chopped liver, sandwiches are the best bet. And try the outstanding cabbage soup. (10749 Preston Rdl691-4444IDaily 7:30 a.m.-7.30 p.m. Wo reservations/ MC, V/$$)



Steaks, Burgers, Etc.



Chili’s. A handsome burger joint. Good chili, unusual soft tacos of flour tortillas, and. best of all, long, thin, greasy french fries with the skin still on them. Always hopping – you’ll likely wait in line. (7567 Greenville Ave at Meadow Rd/361-4371/Daily 11 a.m. -midnight, Fri & Sat till 2 a.m./ No reservations/MC,V,AE/$)

The Filling Station. Aptly named – everything here is huge and heavy, from the platter of beef nachos (a meal in itself, hardly an appetizer) to the ?-pound “Ethyl Hamburger” to the great greasy french fries. Only the onion rings – more like doughnuts than rings – are substandard, if only because they’re so doughy you can’t taste the onion. It’s a gimmicky, Greenville-Avenue transmogrification of an actual gas station, but the clutter of old gas pumps and signs and a neon Mobil Flying Red Horse is more interesting than most such nostalgic assemblages. Strictly for bar-hoppers – and hungry ones at that. (6862 Greenville Ave near Park Lane/691 -4488/ Tue-Sat 11 am.-1 a.m., Sun & Mon till midnight/No reser-vations/MC, V, AE/$)

Houlihan’s. With a menu ranging from a hot dog to roast duck and touching on most everything in between, there are no great expectations Which is why Houlihan’s is usually a pleasant surprise for the good – despite the scope, there are lots of hits and few misses Very good omelettes, burgers, quiche: nice salads, and several more ambitious options (stuffed shrimp, baked trout, etc ) A host of rich and gooey desserts and cappuccino – a good spot for midnight munchies (4 NonhPark Eastl 36/-9426/Daily 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m./No reservations/MC, V, AE. DCI$$)

lchabod’s. Slick in the Greenville Avenue tradition, but lchabod’s is nevertheless a very pleasant and dependable place. The key to their success is a limited menu of steaks and seafood with nothing so elaborate that the kitchen staff can’t handle it. There are a few nicely imaginative touches, like a “relish tray” of raw fresh vegetables instead of a tired salad A nice dining area with its own entrance to separate it from the teeming swingles bar (Old Town, 5500 Greenvillel691-2646ILunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner daily 6-11/No reservations/All credit cards/$$)



D REVISITS

Kirby’s. Time stands still at Kirby’s. It’s as though the rest of Greenville Avenue north of here were still a country road, and no one had ever hung a begonia or an old gas pump or a stained glass window in a restaurant. Kirby’s is no-nonsense Fifties family-style, the kind of place Ozzie took Harriet and the boys for dinner. But its steaks are simply astonishing: the tenderest. best-cooked beef imaginable, and at prices that, while they may not be Fifties prices, still seem to have resisted inflation. Nobody bakes a better potato. either. And that’s about it. Some people praise their salad dressings – stacked in one of those tacky tiers somebody probably gave you as a wedding present- while others find them insipid or unpalatable. And don’t believe the little card boasting of “home-made” desserts. They may. in fact, be home-made, but the recipe is suspiciously like that of Mesdames Wright or Sara Lee. All the same, when you’re hungry for a steak, don’t give any other restaurant a thought. Kirby’s is worth wading through the rubble of lower Greenville for (3715 Greenville/823-7296/ Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight/Res-ervations/AII credit cards/$$)



Stoneieigh P. An Oak Lawn favorite and eclectic hangout A restoration of what was long a pharmacy – clever but not cutesy. Provoione cheeseburgers on pumpernickel are the favorite among many goodies Great magazine rack (browsing encouraged) and fabulous juke box (from Bach to Stones) (2926 Maple/741 -0824/Mon-Thur 11:15-mid-night, Fri & Sat till 1:30 a.m., Sun 12-12: bar daily till 1 a.m., Fri & Sat till 2/No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Strictly Ta-Bu. A terrific old neighborhood bar with a mixed bag clientele The original 1948 decor has been virtually untouched and charms with its classy-tacky effect. Great homemade soups and sometimes great pizza – the kitchen is rather erratic lately. Also burgers, steaks, sandwiches Live jazz most nights and an occasional free flick. (4111 Lomo Alto/526-9325/Mon-Fri 5 a.m. -2 a.m., Sat 6 p.m.-1 a.m/No reservations/MC, V/$$)

T.G.I. Friday’s. This may be Dallas’ junk food paradise – if junk food means luscious hamburgers (still among the best in town), a munchy concoction called nacholupas.’ the biggest chef’s salad you’ll ever see, and even rhubarb pie Good steak bargains; avoid the omelettes. The place is lively as ever, with lots of swingles and a little of everything else. (Old Town. 5500 Greenville/363-5353/Daily 11:30 a.m. -2 a.m./No reservations/MC, V, AE/$$)



Mainly For Lunch



The Bronx. A warm and funky little place with few pretensions and some terrific food coming from its kitchen Nothing fancy, just great omelettes (served with a side of Italian sausage and a toasted bagel), sausage sandwiches, mushroom meatloaf, and a hot pastrami on toasted rye that ranks with the best. By all means have dessert homemade pies and cheesecake and a chocolate mousse that will bring you to your knees. Lunch seems to be in general a better bet than dinner. Beer and wine only, but a great selection of that, and a friendly, casual atmosphere (3835 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn/521 -58211 Daily 11:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m., bar till 2INo reservations/ MCI$$)

Ciro’s. Great Sicilian-style pizza and an attractive array of elaborate sandwiches in an airy, old-time corner store at McKinney and Hall. The “wine bar” serves fine wines by the glass, the beers include some nice imports, and there’s a great hard apple cider with a real kick. (3237 McKinney at Hall/745-9464IMon-Wed 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Thur & Fri till midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., closed Sun/No reservations/MCI$$)

Gallery Buffet. An expertly catered buffet table at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, featuring hearty soups, salads, homemade breads, and desserts for only $3.00. Wine extra. (DMFA. Fair Park/421 -4187/Tue-Fri 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.INo reservations/No credit cardsl$)

Magic Pan. A very popular place with a delicious selection of crepes, including outstanding dessert crepes Very crowded during the week, but nice tor Sunday brunch or late night after-theater snacks. (NorthPark – New MallI 692-7574/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-midnight. Fri till 1 a.m., Sat 10 a.m. -1 a.m. Sun 10 a.m.-midnight/No reservations/ MC,BA,AE,DCI$$)

Zodiac Room. A stunning effect with salads as handsome as they are tasty, and an irresistible array of desserts – including their famous strawberry shortcake. Always crowded. Wine and beer (Neiman-Marcus. downtown/741 -6911/ Mon-Sat 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; teatime daily 3-5 p.m. except Thur 2:30-3:30; Thur dinner 5-7 p.m. IReserva-tionslNeiman-Marcus charge card only, checks acceptedl$S)

Fort Worth Restaurants



Angelo’s. A name that’s known across the state as one of Texas’ premiere barbecue pits And it is Great beef, rich spicy sauce, big sandwiches, cold draught, and a setting that fits – West Texas rustic and sawdust floors And overlooking the proceedings is a monstrous stuffed bear – a landmark himself (2533 White Settlement Rd/(817) 332-0357/Mon-Sat 11-I0INo reservationslNo credit cards $)

The Balcony. Perched in the second story of a shopping center, the Balcony serves well-prepared but not extraordinary food. Standouts are the onion soup, a red snapper prepared with crab, lobster, and a subtle mushroom sauce, and a pleasant veal dish served with Wisconsin cheese. (6100 Camp Bowie Blvdl(817) 731-3719/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10 p.m., Fri-Sat 5:30-10:30; closed Sun/MC, V, AE/$$)

Carriage House. One of the oldest names in Fort Worth dining, the Carriage House is not the wonder it once was, but it still has its moments It’s meal of ups and downs fine Old-plantation-style service but in a drab setting; excellent appetizers (have their splendid smoked salmon) but miserable soups a fine Chateaubriand (beef dishes are their specialty) but served with canned peas and carrots (5236 Camp Bowie (817)732-2873/Lunch Sun-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11/ReservationsIMC, V, AE/$$$)

Cattleman’s. A famous Texas name that sun delivers, and still from its original location right in the heart of the stockyards The steaks are the thing here and they re terrific – you can watch them being cooked on the grills at the end of each dining room Lots of other options, ranging from calf fries (“Mountain Oysters’) to lobster and spaghetti (2458 N Main/(817)624-3945lMon-Fri 11 a.m.-10:45 p.m., Sat 4-10.45 p.m., closed Sun/Reserva-tions/All credit cards/$$)

Le Bistro. Authentic French cooking in a restaurant low in atmosphere but high in personal care Papa Henri executes with talent his own varied and distinctive menu (dinner selection ranges from Eggs Benedict to frog legs Provencale to medallions of veal, at lunch, try his crepes) and daughter Michelle serves it up with unassuming charm Extensive wine list (No relation to Le Bistro in Dallas ) (3322 Camp Bowie/(817)332-5102/Brunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2,Dinner Tue’Sat5.3O-9:3O/Reservations/MC. V/$$$)

Old Swiss House. Many claim that this is Fort Worth’s finest Certainly a Fort Worth favorite – the Kaufmann family has been serving fine continental cuisine here tor many years Delightful veal dishes (the St Moritz is rich and satisfying) and a daily fresh seafood special Great little complimentary cheese rolls and a lovely Boston lettuce dinner salad Not a particularly distinctive place, more comfortable then classy And the service can seem hurried (5412 Camp Bowie/(817)738 8091/Mon- Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 10.30, closed Sun/ReservationslMC, V, AE, DC/$$$)