D-DINING DIRECTORY

Restaurant rating can be a highly arbitrary process. These listings have been compiled not only from our own experiences, but also from evaluations solicited from a cross-section of the city’s epicures. The listings are not meant to be conclusive, but are designed to convey an idea of what to expect.



Restaurants, of course, change. These listings will be revised and supplemented periodically to reflect those changes. To that end, opinions and comments from our readers will receive careful consideration. Visits by our critics are made incognito to avoid preferential treatment.



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit, then, that we recommend them highly. Where criticism is imposed, it is as a service to our readers, indicating that in a particular area of service or cuisine a restaurant does not fully meet the standards of excellence expected of it. If and when those negative conditions improve, we will happily note the change for the better in the listings. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.



The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general range.

$-Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$-Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$-Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $8 for a complete meal.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC-Master Charge/ BA-BankAmericard/ AE- American Express/ DC-Diner’s Club/ CB-Carte Blanche/ “All Credit Cards” indicates that all of the above are accepted.

Newcomers…

These recent arrivals to the Dallas restaurant scene are not necessarily recommended (yet), but are listed just to indicate where they are and what they’ve got.



Caro’s Puerto Vallarta. An established Fort Worth operation, Caro’s is making a second try at a Dallas location (they opened and closed in Dallas once before). The best that can be said for the place and its Mexican cuisine is that it’s definitely different. Most notably, all of the tostados and taco shells are deep fat fried, resulting in such things as puffed nachos and puffed tacos. An interesting approach, but the general effect is heavy and spongy. Other interesting menu items are shrimp enchiladas and two special dinners “by appointment” – cabrito (goat) for six ($48) and roast suckling pig for twelve ($150). A cavernous dining room, completely void of any south-of-the-border charm. Full bar featuring margaritas and Carta Blanca on tap. (5427 Denton Dr at Hudnalll 630-9001/ Seven days a week; lunch 11:30-2:30; dinner 5-10, till 12 on Fri and Sat/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)



The Lunch Basket Tearoom. A bright and very cozy little lunch spot on the second floor of The Craft Compound in Snider Plaza, featuring homemade-style lunch-in-a-basket. A set menu – no options – changes daily, offering a soup, a salad, sandwich, and dessert for $1.50. The specialties are the unusual salads (such as tuna with orange) and the desserts (especially the light flaky cream puffs). The soups are also out-of-the-ordinary, notably the fresh spinach. Foreign blend coffees and teas; no bar. A delightful midday stop while browsing the shops and galleries of the Compound. During the Compound’s festival (Apr 28-May 4), the Lunch Basket will sell fruits, cheeses, homemade bread loaves, meat and fruit tarts, and apple cider. (6617 Snider Plaza, Suite 200/ 369-8338/ Tues-Sat 11-3/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)



Royal Hawaiian. While certainly there is a place for a good Polynesian-style restaurant in far north Dallas, Royal Hawaiian is not going to be the one unless it undergoes some drastic upgrading on all fronts. The staff is very cordial and well-meaning, but simply seems poorly trained in the art of running a restaurant – both in food preparation and in service. Perhaps time and experience will bring improvement. On a positive note, the menu is indeed wide-ranging, offering Japanese, Chinese, and American dishes in addition to Polynesian; there are also daily happy hours (two-for-one) from 2:30-5:30 and 9-10 featuring “Hawaiian cocktails” – bar by $5 membership. (Valley View Shopping Ctr, Preston at LBJ/ 387-2177/ Mon-Sat; lunch 11:30-2:30; dinner 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11:30/ Reservations large group only/ MC, BA/$$)



Tidbits…

Monthly notes of special treats in special places.



As creeping cosmopolitanism continues to take the “Texas” out of Dallas, one of the results has been a gradual loss of the “country” in the cuisine. While new restaurants boasting international menus from Thailand to Tim-bucktu spring up daily across our city, another genre of restaurants is fading into history. The Texas cafe – home of cornbread, blue collars, and black-eyed peas – is fighting a losing battle for survival against the foods of the rest of the world. While “truckstop cuisine” continues to thrive on the highways and byways of Texas and even on the city fringes, it has survived at only a few diehard establishments in the heart of town. Here are two old favorites where you can get a good down-home meal, a good down-home deal, and a good down-home feelin’.

“Not Fancy But Good” reads the lettering in the window of Red’s Cafe on Cole Ave. That just about says it all. The long and narrow layout – true old fashioned diner style – is always humming and clattering at lunch time as blue collar appetites load up on Red’s plate lunches. The Daily Special offers one entree, two vegetables, hot rolls (regular and cornbread), and coffee or tea for $1.90. The weekly schedule: Mon & Thur – chicken fried steak, Tues – smothered steak, Wed – fried chicken, Fri – turkey & dressing or chicken & dumplings. The Friday spread has a special country appeal, right down to the grits in the dressing. Red’s also serves breakfast and dinner and has burgers and sandwiches if you should want them, though nobody ever seems to. Plenty of cafe chatter adds to the neighborly feeling of the place – there are a lot of regulars here. (4537 Cole Ave. near Knox St./ 526-9042/ Mon-Fri 6 a.m. -9 p.m.)

Fran’s Cafe is the little white frame building on Hall St. near McKinney – the one with the line stretching out the front door every day about noon. The daily plate lunch ($1.85) is again the drawing card. A choice of two entrees (one of which is usually the thick and crunchy chicken fried steak that is acquiring a reputation of its own) plus three vegetables, including such rural delicacies as mustard greens, pinto beans, and buttered squash. And the cornbread is terrific. Dessert (not included with the plate lunch price) completes the country style feast with such temptations as hot apple cobbler. There is also a full assortment of sandwiches. Breakfast is served daily and they’re planning to open soon for dinner. (3005 Hall St/ 742-0141/ Mon-Sat 6:30 a.m.-2 p.m.)



The Dining Experience …

These restaurants provide a complete dining experience-consistent excellence in cuisine, service, and atmosphere. They are generally, though not always, characterized by extensive menus, attentive staff, and tasteful surroundings.



Arthur’s. The noted prime beef specialties remain consistently excellent. A delightful diversion from beef is, surprisingly enough, the delicious calves liver. The chicken and seafood entrees are not particularly outstanding. Fine spinach salad. A unique feature is the wine list – American wines only with some intriguing selections, though more half bottles would be nice. Gracious service in chic surroundings. A fabulous bar (one of Dallas’ best) with entertainment nightly. (1000 Campbell Centre/ 361-8833/ Sun-Fri 11:30-2, 611; Sat 6-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)



Bagatelle. So pleasant and comfortable are the surroundings – a relaxed “French country style” atmosphere replete with softly cushioned chairs – that fingers are being kept crossed in hopes that the cuisine will eventually match the comfort. Despite a very qualified staff and an interesting menu of continental preparations leaning towards the simple rather than the extravagent, Bagatelle has not yet lived up to expectations. The beef tournedos or the Roquefort Pillow Steak can provide a nice meal, but the biggest drawing card at present is the bar – very attractive and currently featuring some fine jazz by Paul Guerrero and his group. A Sunday buffet brunch offers made-to-order omelettes, your choice of many ingredients. (One Energy

Square, Greenville Ave. at University/ 692-8224/ Lunch, daily except Sat, 11-2; Dinner, Sun-Thur 610, Fri & Sat till 11. Bar till 1:30 a.m. nightly/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $$$)



The Beefeater Inn. (Beefeater has closed.)



Bellmaster. Unlike most upper echelon restaurants, this one is recommended more strongly for lunch than dinner – the service seems more personal, the atmosphere feels more comfortable, and the prices are lower in the daytime. The food, equally good day or night, has given this relatively new restaurant a very solid reputation. Most notable are the frog legs LaFourche and the veal scallops in whiskey, both served in superb sauces and in huge portions. Another highlight is the double lamb chops (“Royale”), big and cooked perfectly to order, An ambience of relaxed elegance. Bar (and food) by “membership.” (Carillon Plaza, 13601 Preston Rd./ 661-9353/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Mon-Fri 5-12, Sat 6:3012. Bar till 2, Fri & Sat/ Reservations/ MC, BA/ $$$)



Blooms. A delightful little restaurant tucked in a frame house just off Cedar Springs, simply and tastefully redone, embellished with plants and graphics. A rotating menu of 3 or 4 continental entrees. All of their food has the same touch of simple, refined elegance that characterizes the place, right down to a bar of best brands only. Service is attentive, but overcrowded conditions have caused it to become occasionally rushed and pushy. The combination of its sudden popularity, no waiting lounge, and hardwood floors has unfortunately made the place quite noisy at times. A reservations policy would help. (2917 Fairmount/ 745-9571/ Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2, Sun brunch 12-2; Dinner: Sun, Tue-Thur. 6-10:30, Fri & Sat till 12/ No reservations/ MC.BA/ $$)



Chablis. Only sometimes do the French specialties here achieve the excellence that the prices and reputation of Chablis lead you to expect. The escargots are indeed superb and the veal scallopini Marsala is a favorite among patrons. Service is slow when crowded, but very attentive otherwise. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/ 522-0910/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat til midnight/ Reservations at night/ MC, BA, DC / $$$)



Chateaubriand. The strong point is variety. Whatever you order from the wide-ranging continental menu is likely to be good (though, for some reason, unfounded rumors to the contrary have always persisted about this place). Bountiful servings at moderate prices. The salads alone are worth a visit. Or try it for better than average Greek food. The ambience can only be described as continental decadent posh (see for yourself). (2515 McKinney/ 741-1223/ Mon-Sat ll:30-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)



The Chimney. With a past history of excellence as a luncheon spot, the “new” Chimney has expanded its format to that of a full-fledged continental restaurant. And with great success. A traditional continental menu, from a very fine prime rib to a nicely prepared chicken Kiev. The “Seafood Imperial” is a wonderful appetizer of shrimp and crabmeat. Side dishes suffer a bit by comparison. Two intimate dining rooms in classic early American decor – hardwood floors, brass and pewter chandeliers. Outstanding service. (Willow-creek, 9739 N. Cen. Expwy at Walnut Hill 369-6466/ Tue-Sat 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 612 p.m./ Reservations/ MC. BA, AE, personal checks/ $$$).



China Inn. With a consistency of excellence remarkable in such a relatively new restaurant, China Inn has quickly and solidly established itself at the forefront of the Oriental restaurant scene. All of the sweet and sour dishes are perfectly prepared and the chicken sub gum is superb. The trimmings, from the egg rolls to the won ton soup, are of the same high quality. A simple and tasteful decor accented by lots of fresh flowers. (6521 E. Northwest Hwy/ 369-7733/ Mon-Fri 11-2, 511; Sat 5-11; Sun11-11/ AE, BA, MCI $).



Enclave. A promising entry in the suddenly booming field of Dallas haute cuisine. With a traditional and somewhat uninspired decor of flocked burgundy wallpaper, smoked mirrors and crystal chandeliers, the Enclave will have to rely on its widely varied continental menu to keep up with the competition. Some fine standouts include the mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat, the veal Collette en papillote, and the filet mignon belle Héléne with artichoke bottom filled with a béarnaise sauce unexcelled anywhere. Unfortunately, the less-than-average trimmings and some weak spots in the menu do not quite justify the “haute” prices. The wine list is wanting, notably lacking in moderately priced selections. Service is usually excellent. (8325 Walnut Hill/ 363- 7847/ Lunch, Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner, Mon-Sat 611, bar till 12/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$$)



Ewald’s. Interesting continental specialties, consistently well-prepared. Though noted for his fine veal dishes, Ewald also serves a pepper steak that may well be the best you’ll find in Dallas. A quiet and gracious atmosphere; very plain except for one unusual feature – an observation window through which you can watch the work in the immaculate kitchen. (5415 W. Lovers Ln/ 3571622/ Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11/ MC, BA/ Reservations/ $$$)



The Grape. A unique and always crowded restaurant boasting 25 varieties of cheese and a menu of light entrees that changes daily. The tournedos blérnaise is a favorite. For a touch of pure excellence, try any of the homemade soups (fresh mushroom is the specialty). During busy hours, which is most of the time, service can be painfully slow. Unusual wine list. No mixed drinks. (2808 Greenville Ave.l 823-0133/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner: Tues-Sun, 610:30, open later on Fri & Sat for wine and cheese only/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $$)



Ianni’s. The special menu of Italian hors d’oeuvres is so loaded with goodies – from spiedini (a stuffed miniature veal roll) to toasted ravioli to Italian sausage that is without peer – that a dinner of all appetizers is very tempting. If you’ve got room left, the veal scallopini Ianni is the best of the specialties. The atmosphere, unfortunately, is noisy. (2230 Greenville Ave./ 826-6161/ Daily 5:30-11:30/ Reservations/ MC,AE/ $$)



I1 Sorrento. Classical Italian cuisine of very high quality, from the most ambitious Italian menu in town. You can hardly miss, but especially good are the dishes with homemade flat pasta, including the fettucine and the taglia-telle, both prepared at your table. The service is frequently as lavish as the Italian street scene decor, complete with strolling musicians. (8616 Turtle Creek/ 352-8759/ Daily 5:30-11, Sat till midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)



Italian Pavilion. A “penthouse” restaurant atop the LeBaron Hotel. A splendid view and a subdued, almost informal, elegance create a most pleasant setting. The Northern Italian cuisine is equally impressive, distinguished by homemade pasta cut and cooked to order. The veal dishes are among the best in town, most notably the unusual scallopini Gaetano with provolone and prosciutto. A very good Italian wine list; manager Alberto will offer expert selection advice upon request. (LeBaron Hotel, 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Frwy/ 634-8550/ Mon-Sat 6-11 p.m./ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Marcel’s. Marcel’s has always been very French in its appeal and consistently good in its cuisine. Recently, however, there has been a noticeable lack of care and flair. Marcel still prepares a brilliant beef Wellington and in Le Cabaret, the newer dining room, the complete table d’hote dinner (including all the hors d’oeuvres you can eat) for only $5.50 is definitely a gourmet bargain. But all in all, not the place it used to be. An interesting menu note claims “we will prepare any classical French cuisine upon request.” Attentive service in a quiet, relaxed atmosphere. (5721 W. Lovers Lnl 358-2103/ Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight, closed Monday/ Reservation?/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$)



Mario’s. Elegant and refined, to be sure, and, on a good night, capable of Italian specialties as interesting and rewarding as any of the best dishes in the city. But consistency in both food and service has faltered lately. Recommended: saltimbocca alla Romana, manicotti, fried zucchini. The veal with artichoke hearts and mushrooms is famous and deservedly so. And no matter what precedes it, the spumoni for dessert is always a delight. (135 Turtle Creek Village/ 521-1135/ Daily 6-10:45, Sat till 11:45/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)



Mr. Peppe. Perhaps not the very best French cuisine in Dallas (though some still swear it is), but certainly the very best for the money – a refreshingly well-priced menu. Albert, who is also owner and a charming host, is still the finest breads and pastries chef around. His creations alone warrant a visit. The paté maison is also especially fine. There is a relaxed and comfortable feeling here, abetted by a staff of cordial waiters. 5617 W. Lovers Ln/ 352-5976/ Mon-Sat 6-10/ Reservations/ MC, BA,AE/$$$)



Old Warsaw. Its heritage of excellence in providing the complete French-continental dining experience is being challenged by frequent reports of slow and indifferent service. The menu of many superlatives remains intact: chicken Kiev, duck Bigarade, red snapper Meuniere and the Chateaubriand en pa-pillote to name a few of the best. Salads & vegetables are disappointing. A very fine wine list. (2610 Maple/ 528-0032/ Daily 611, Sat till midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)



Oporto Oyster Bar. The closest thing Dallas has to a real seafood restaurant. At that, you should be very careful about what you order. Best bets are Boston schrod, broiled red snapper and the whole baby flounder. Other consistent standouts are the broiled Maine lobster and oysters on the half shell. The sporadic service has been rude and inefficient at times, nearly perfect at others. An expertly tended bar, with an impressive array of dessert drinks. Informal atmosphere. (2929 N. Henderson/ 826-2553/ Daily 5-11, Fri & Sat till midnight/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)



Oz. Superlatives abound in this exciting restaurant/club. A chef and staff with glowing international credentials offer a veriety of unusual and brilliantly prepared specialities. Particularly impressive are the pheasant with grapes and brown sauce and the striped bass. The hors d’oeuvre plate of smoked fish and a luscious paté in puff pastry are sensational. An exhaustive wine list. The service has now matured and matches the excellence of the cuisine. The ultra-modern, neon and mirrored interior is interesting, but somewhat incongruous with the haute cuisine. Prices are high, but justifiably so. A private club, memberships are $25 per year or $5 for a temporary (three day) membership. (5429 LBJ Freeway/ 233-5755 / Tue-Sun 6-11 p.m., temporarily/ Reservations only/ MC, BA, AE/ $$$)



Patry’s. It seems unfortunate (and unnecessary) that such fine French cuisine is served in surroundings so loud and bright. A little toning down could do wonders for this place. But it hasn’t dented its popularity, due in part to the exquisite hora d’oeuvres, especially the stuffed leeks in cream sauce and the special paté Rillettes. The duck Bigarade is also worthy of special note. This is basically a family operation and, perhaps predictably, the service is very pleasant but not too efficient. (2504 McKinney/ 748-3754/ Tue-Fri 611, Sat till 11:30/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$$)



Peking Palace. They’ve had their ups and downs lately, but when they’re up, the Mandarin and Szechuan specialties still rank with the best. Perhaps the most extensive variety of any Chinese menu in the city. Try the fried dumplings for openers. Peking duck, a very interesting preparation, is available on an hour’s notice. The ginger beef and the Nanking and Seshun pork dishes are all excellent. More expensive than most Oriental cuisine and definitely better at dinner than lunch. (4119 Lomo Alto/ 5221830/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thurs. 5-11, Sat & Sun till midnight, Sun. 12-10/Reservations on weekends/ MC, BA,AE/ $$)-



Pepperport. A reliable restaurant featuring consistently good cuisine – mostly American specialities. Recommended highly as a lunch spot, especially for people living or working in far north Dallas. Note: they have discontinued their late night menu on weekends. A very comfortable ambience with a colonial charm. Cocktails by “membership” only – it’s dry out here. (Carillon Towers, 13601 Preston Rd./ 661-3237/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6:3010:30, Fri & Sat till 11/ Reservations for 6 or more/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)



Pietro’s. Small and comfortable, Pietro’s serves some of the better pasta dishes in Dallas. Southern Italian homestyle cooking. The manicotti and cannelloni lead the way. The garlic bread is a must and the pizza is the best in town, period. Usually crowded, but worth the wait. (5722 Richmond, off Greenville/824-9403/ Tue-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11:30/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $$)



Pyramid Room. All in all, this is currently the finest restaurant in Dallas. And the most expensive. Truly gourmet. Recommendations are superfluous, but the Grand Marnier souffle is masterful. Usually a paragon of service in an atmosphere of affluence. The luncheon buffet has been replaced by a limited menu of lighter, smaller-portioned entrees in the $5-$8 range, all excellent. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard/ 748-5454/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, Dinner: Daily 6-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)



Royal Tokyo. A relative newcomer that has proven consistent with well-prepared Japanese cuisine, and it seems to be improving with age. Standouts are the Ton Katsu (delicate batter fried pork strips) and the shrimp tempura. Green tea (it’s terrific), imported Japanese beer & whiskey and, of course, saki. (7525 Greenville Ave./ 368-3304! Daily 11-2, 5:30-11:30! MC, BA, AE/ Reservations/ $$)



South China. A varied and adventurous menu of exquisite Chinese cuisine. This small, unassuming restaurant is rapidly building a reputation for the best Oriental food in the city. Recommended: Moo Shi pork, any of the dishes with superb black bean sauce, and all the chicken dishes. Two special treats are the Chinese steamed dumplings and the bean curd & pork soup. The seafood preparations are of a lesser quality. Personable and personalized service. (5424 E. Mockingbird/ 826-5420! Lunch: Tue-Sun 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Tue-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat till 12, Sun till 11/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $)



Trader Vic’s. There are Trader Vic’s all over the country, but don’t let that scare you away. They’re all different and this one is quite good.The Indonesian lamb roast and the limestone lettuce salad are worth a dinner trip any time. Great hors d’oeuvres and fun drinks. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N. Cen. Expwy/ 827-3620/ 7 days a week, 5-12/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)



Trattoria De Meo. Though this yet-to-be-discovered spot has virtually no clientele yet, it will soon. For good reason – it’s delightful. Refined yet relaxed, elegant yet unassuming, this small new home of fine Italian cuisine offers a very satisfying dining experience. A simple handwritten menu of four or five entrees (changing periodically) serves as an accurate prelude to a meal of wonderfully light and uncomplicated preparations. A cordial and knowledgeable staff, though efficiency with a crowd is yet untested. Very limited wine list. A piano bar is planned, but as of now, no mixed drinks. (5601 W. Lovers Ln/ 3500238/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: 6-10/ Reservations/ MC, CB/ $$)



Zodiac Room. A buffet production that delights the eye as well as the palate. Luncheon delicacies of the first order (though it used to be better) with a special flair for desserts – they are phenomenal. The fresh fruit salad (in season) with the deservedly famous poppy seed dressing is super. Service is leisurely, to say the least. Danish pastries in the morning from 9:30-10:30. Wine and beer. (Neiman-Marcus, downtown/ 741-6911/ Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30, Dinner buffet, Thurs only, 5-7/ Reservations/ Neiman-Marcus charge card only, checks accepted/ $$)

Something different. ..

These restaurants represent the best of Dallas’ offbeat, funky, or somehow out-of-the-ordinary dining spots. They are generally characterized by specialized cuisine, distinctive decor, or unusual special features (and often by bargain prices).



Brasserie. The cream of the all-night restaurant crop. Of special note are the scrambled eggs with lox and onions (where else can you get that at 3 a.m.?), some terrific pastries and luscious bittersweet chocolate ice cream. The later it is, the better it all seems to taste. Four rotating menus including dinner on a changing international theme and breakfast served at all hours. Sidewalk cafe motif. Usually fast service. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard/ 748-5454/ 24 hours, 7 days a week/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$)



Calluaud Traiteur. A small “French cafe” tucked into a corner of the Quadrangle (where The Deli was before), serving very good continental dishes highlighted by a daily luncheon special, $2.25-2.95. Also sandwiches, quiche, and pastries. Chef Guy Calluaud certainly has the credentials: not only is he a former Pyramid Room chef, but his great grandmother cheffed for Napoleon III; many of his preparations are her recipes. Mainly a lunch spot, though breakfast (very standard) is served daily and dinner is served Thursday evening only. Casual and comfortable. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/ 748-7459/ Mon-Sat 8 a.m.-5 p.m., Thur till 8:30/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)

Campisi’s Egyptian Restaurant. The original Dallas pizza parlor still serves some of the best pizza in town and at very reasonable prices. If pizza doesn’t fit your mood, forget it – you’ll have to fill up on an appetizer basket of crab claws. They’re a treat. Avoid the salad. Good late night spot. Try it on a week-night – the weekends are usually jammed. (5610 E. Mockingbird/ 827-0355/ Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., Sun noon-midnight/ No credit cards. Checks accepted/ Reservations for 6 or more/ $)



Cattlemen’s. This old stand-by still offers great steaks in the Texas steakhouse tradition. The side dishes are mediocre and the decor is cutesy cowboy, but the steak’s the thing. (2007 Live Oak/ 747-9131/ Daily 4:30-10:30/ Reservations recommended/ MC, BA, AE, CB/ $$)



Celebration. Home cooking served family style. The all-you-can-eat prices (from $2.50-$4.50 depending upon the entree) are still a dinner bargain, but the food is not what is used to be and the place has not been well-maintained. A good place for kids – children’s plates are only $l-$1.50. Fun atmosphere. No bar, bring your own wine. (4503 W. Lovers Lane/ 351-5681/ Mon-Sat 5:30-11, Sun till 10:30/ No reservations/ MC, BA/ $)



Chiquita. An alternative to the Mexican “cafe circuit,” Chiquita might be described as “Mexican haute.” Though somewhat overrated in general, it has maintained a loyal clientele with a simple, comfortable, low-key atmosphere and a menu of unusual dishes such as the pescado bianco marinero (rolled whitefish with a spinach stuffing and a shrimp and oyster sauce) or carnitas tampiquenas (broiled pork strips). The standard Tex-Mex offerings here are very average at above average prices. Cordial, if sometimes inefficient, service. (3325 Oak Lawn/ 5210721/ Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m. 11 p.m./ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE/$$)

La Creperie. Dine on the outdoor patio on a nice day and you won’t mind the consistently slow service. Choose from almost 50 varieties of crepes – the white asparagus and swiss cheese is a winner. Dessert crepes from 50￠-$5 and 10 varieties of espresso. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/ 651-0506/ Mon-Wed 1-10:30, Thur-Sat till 11/ Reservations recommended/ MC, BA, DC/ $$)



Cuquita’s Cafe. Slightly tacky but very friendly Mexican cafe. The regular fare is tasty but heavy stuff in overly generous portions, so try a lunch of great guacamole salad and fresh homemade com tortillas. (2718 Harry Hines/ 742-0833/ Tues-Sun 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Closed Mon/ No credit cards/ $)



Daddy’s Money. Attracts a lively crowd – and we do mean crowd – so expect a long wait at the bar before dining. Order the fine rack of lamb or you’ll get an average meal. Another alternative is to go for Sunday brunch which features some great fresh fruit daiquiris as well as some interesting omelettes. The service can be bothersome – the waiters insist on introducing themselves, for some reason. The three-level dining room creates a nice effect. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville Ave/ 363-8686/ Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-12:30, Sun 10-11. Drinks till 2 a.m. daily/ No reservations/ MC,BA,AE,DC/$$)



La Esquina. Mexican food New Mexico style, so they say. This means enchiladas that are layered rather than rolled, beef chunks instead of ground beef, more chilies than cheese. Definitely different and usually good, though not particularly exciting (the pork and red chili enchilada is a good example for the curious). Sometimes sensational sopapillas – they vary from day to day, as does the service. Homemade sangria and margaritas by the litre. Quiet setting in a neat old house. Seems overpriced (tortilla – 15￠?). (2815 McKinney/ 826-2950/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:301:30, Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-9:30, Fri & Sat till 10/ Reservations not needed/ No credit cards/ Checks accepted/ $$)



Gallery Buffet at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts. For $2.50 you can have a delightful lunch of hearty soups, salad, hot homemade bread loaves, and splendid desserts. A tradition of delicious food at a delicious price. Wine extra. (Fair Park/ 428-6263/ Tues-Fri 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m./ No reservations/ $)



Genghis Khan Mongolian Feast Try this one once and pass your own judgment. Some like it (especially kids), some don’t. The “feast” goes like this: help yourself to thin slices of raw beef, pork, turkey, and lamb; garnish with vegetables, spices, and sauce; take it to the brazier where the mixture is grilled while you watch. Hint: Try it at lunch first – it’s cheaper then. (4830 Greenville/ 3610280/ Tues-Fri 11:30-2, 5:30-11; Sat & Sun 5-10 only/ Reservations not needed/ All credit cards/ $$)



Goidfinger. In a city with a dearth of good Greek food, this is one of few options left since El Greco burned down. The menu has the standard Greek offerings and features a house specialty combination of souflaki and large shrimp. In recent months the food, though not really anything to rave about, has shown increasing improvement and reliability – enough so to safely say it’s the best of its kind in Dallas. Quality entertainment has made this a popular nightspot. (2905 Cridelle, Bachman Lake area/ 350-6983/ Daily 11:30-2, 611; Fri & Sat till midnight/ Reservations on weekends/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)



The Health Nut. Dallas’ best health food restaurant. A homemade cream cheese sandwich on wheatberry bread that is sure to please, whether you’re a health nut or not. In general, however, portions are rather small and prices are rather large. Wonderful fresh fruit or vegetable salads. Great smoothies. Casual atmosphere, to say the least, and clever decor with glass table tops on tree stumps. Warning: no smoking. (4220 Oak Lawn/ 526-4050/ Daily 11-9/ No credit cards/ $)



Herrera Cafe. Mexican home cooking at its best. Don’t be put off by the hole-in-the-wall decor – the food is first class. Watch them make the flour tortillas as you walk in, then order them – a rare treat. The hot sauce is different, delicious, and hot. And the soft cheese tacos have to be tasted to be appreciated – surely the best ever. They’re contemplating expansion (there are only 9 tables), so go while it’s good (remember Ojeda’s?). Bring your own beer. (3902 Maple/ 526-9427/ Weekdays 9-8. Weekends till 10. Closed Tuesday/ No credit cards/ No reservations/ $)



Hungry Hunter. The “wild game” fare here tends to be a little tame (the Russian wild boar tastes very much like A&P pork). But then again, where else can you have the novel satisfaction of ordering buffalo or mouflon? The brace of quail and the Long Island duck provide very good alternatives to the more exotic (but less tasty) game. Service is friendly and attentive. Ambience is hunting lodge chic. And the bartender has some incredibly potent concoctions – ask for his Rolls Royce. (Keystone Park. 13931 N. Cen. Expwy/ 690-8090/ Lunch: 11:30-3 except Sat, Dinner: 6-11. Fri & Sat till midnight/ Bar open till 2 a.m./ MC, BA. AE/ $$$)



Jamil’s Steak House. Lebanese hots d’oeuvres with all dinners are the added attraction here, good and filling. Included, among other tidbits, are a Tabouli salad, cabbage rolls, and a basket of barbecue ribs and bologna. Steaks are good, big cuts at bargain prices (such as an almost unheard of 24 oz. T-bone, $7.95). (2901 W. Northwest Hwy/ 352-9071/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, Dinner: Daily 5-midnight/ Reserva-ions/ All credit cards/ $$)



Khalil’s Beirut. Sometimes-excellent Middle Eastern cuisine, and one of the few places in the city that you’ll find it. Service too is a sometimes proposition, at times good, at other times inattentive. When everything is right, it’s a nice place for a change of pace. (31 Highland Park Village/ 526-5600/ Mon-Sat 11-10/ Reservations for 6 or morel MCI $$)



Kirby’s. A dependable, no-nonsense steak house, the first steak specialty restaurant in Dallas. Mr. Kirby still runs the place and there are no bad surprises. Attentive but unobtrusive service. The filet is an especially good value. Great onion rings, but the salads are a weak item. (3715 Greenville/ 823-7296/ Tues-Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)



Kuby’s Sausage House. Dallas’ best deli-restaurant. A cheery place with a German accent. Browse the German magazine rack while you’re standing in line (lunchtime is always crowded). Or leave your lunchmate to stand in line while you check out the fascinating grocery imports. Marvelous pastrami and nicely priced daily specials. No bar. (6601 Snider Plaza/ 363-2231/ Mon-Sat 11-2:30, Sandwiches till 5:30/ MC/ $)



The Magic Pan. Usually over-crowded, but worth it. Excellent crepes (you can watch them being made) and a tine spinach salad. Try the Chantilly crepes for dessert. Recommended for a Sunday brunch when the shopping crowd is gone. Note: There is a $1.50 per person minimum, so don’t stop in for a cup of coffee. (NorthPark – New Mall/ 692-7574/ Sun-Thur U-midnight, Fri & Sat till 1/ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)



Ojeda Cafe. It’s no longer the living legend it once was – popularity and expansion have tarnished its charm and brought consistently insurmountable crowds. But the puffed tacos are still the best around. Beer only. (4447 Maple/ 526-9261/ Tue-Fri 11-3, 5-8:30; Sat & Sun 11-8:30; Closed Mon/ 4011 Cedar Springs/ 521-4740/ Mon, Wed-Fri 11-3, 5-9; Sat & Sun 11-9; Closed Tues/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)



Old Spaghetti Warehouse. One for the kids. An old Market St. warehouse brought back to life and loaded with antiques and novelties (including a real City of Dallas trolley car). It’s possible that the spaghetti is also antique. But it’s a very popular family spot, fun and different. And all the antiques are for sale, even the trolley car ($100,000). (1815 N. Market St./ 651-8475/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5-12, Sun 12-10/ Reservations for 20 or more only/ MC, BA, AE/$)



Penny Pinchers. An unusual place with an all-you-can-eat buffet of impressive variety. Choose from such diversities as Creole cuisine, curried chicken, beef teriyaki, and Swedish meatballs. Home cooked in a homey atmosphere by husband and wife owners. Food is undistinguished, and the price ($6) won’t pinch any pennies, but it’s a good spot for the very hungry. Beer & wine only. (6556 Skillman/ 341-2127/ Mon-Sat 6-10/ Reservations, but not necessary/ MC, AE/ $$)



Sakura. Dine Japanese style: on the floor, shoeless, with chopsticks, in Oriental robes provided by the restaurant. (Or at a regular table if you prefer.) Japanese string music and dancing adds to the experience. Most dishes cooked at your table. More for the fun than for the food, which is average though the shrimp tempura is excellent. (5206 Maple/522-0200/ Tues-Sun 6-11/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)



Satian’s. Although billed as a Thai restaurant, the menu includes a variety of other Oriental and Polynesian dishes. The Chiangmai beef is quite good and the Thai shrimp rolls are superb, though the sweet and sour sauce leans a bit heavily to the sweet side. Service is gracious. Bar by “membership”. Becoming more of a night spot with expanded club facilities (in the style of a Thailand temple) and live music and dancing nightly. The Thai classical dancing is no longer performed. (Keystone Park. 13931 N. Cen Expwy/ 6900682/ Lunch Tues-Fri, 11-2:30, Dinner Tues-Sun 511 p.m., lounge till 12/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)



Sonny Bryan’s. The best barbecue in town? It may well be, but it’s a close race. The other two contenders are Smitty’s on McKinney and Salih’s in Preston Center. All have similar menus and luscious barbecue in generous portions. Sonny Bryan’s has the most authentic “smokehouse” atmosphere and great onion rings. Smitty’s has the most comfortable dining room, but it’s only open for lunch. Salih’s has the best prices, but no beer. So the deciding factor may be which one is closest to you. (Sonny Bryan’s 2202 Inwood/ 357-7120/ Mon-Sat 6 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun 11-2// Smitty’s, 2720 McKinney/ 8230369/ Mon-Fri 7 a.m.-3:30 p.m., closed weekends/ / Salih’s, 8309 West-Chester/ 3611684/ Mon-Sat 11-7:45// No credit cards/ $)



Southern Kitchen. Feast in the style and tradition of the Old South. And a feast it is – their “Deluxe” dinner is an assortment of fried chicken, smoked chicken, fried shrimp, fried trout, and deviled crab, plus shrimp cocktail, crabmeat appetizers, and many other trimmings for $7.95. Additional servings of everything at no extra cost. None of the preparations (except for the luscious home-made cinnamon rolls) could be called extraordinary, but the magnitude of the meal is impressive enough. The two locations, East and West, have identical menus, but the West has a more handsomely appointed plantation-style atmosphere including waiters and waitresses in period costume. (West, 2356 W. Northwest Hwy, 352-5220/ East, 6615 E. Northwest Hwy, 368-1658/ Mon-Sat 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m., Sun 5-10 p.m./ Reservations for 5 or more/ All credit cards/ $$)



Taxco Cafe. Good Tex-Mex specialties, especially for the newcomer to Mexican cuisine. The preparations are subtle, not so highly seasoned. Excellent guacamole and the re-fried beans are the real thing. Friendly service with prices that may be the best value in Dallas. Beer only. (2126 N. St. Paul/ 742-0747/ Wed-Sun 10:30-9, Mon 10:30-8, closed Tue/ No reservations/ MC/ $)



T.G.I. Friday’s. A lively and popular restaurant/ bar (or bar/restaurant, depending upon what you’re there for). A menu of steaks, burgers, shrimp, chicken – nothing extravagant, but all in very hefty portions at reasonable prices; in fact, one of the better steak values in town. The chef salad is simply gigantic. Special features include a half-price drink celebration beginning at midnight on Thursday nights and a champagne brunch ($1.95, all you can drink) on Sundays. Casual atmosphere of striped tablecloth/tiffany lamp motif. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville Ave/ 363-5353/ 11 a.m.-2 a.m. seven days a week/ MC, BA, AE/$$)



Upper Crust. Tasty home-cooking in old-fashioned kitchen motif. Entrees change daily andrange widely from liver to lasagna. Good redbeans & combread at lunchtime and saladwith an unusual buttermilk dressing. No alcoholic beverages sold. (Olla Podrida, 12215 Coit Rd./ 661-5738/ Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3, Dinner: Thursdays only, 5:30-8:30/ No reser vations/ No credit cards/ $)