I’ve spent the better part of the day combing the ethnic markets in Garland. At one point,Â I stopped at a Trak 10 gas station at the corner of W. Walnut and Jupiter. Inside I found a teeny tiny taqueria. Two chicas behind the four-seat counter were making tacos–one had a big plastic tub with three boiled cow heads in it and she was peeling the meat off the skull. Second chica took the meat and put it on a corn tortilla and griddled it. There was a line of regulars waiting at 2:30 in the afternoon. It’s not for everyone, but if you’re ready for the real deal, it’s, oddly, happening in the Little Saigon district of Dallas.