steak_11 III Forks’ filet. photography by Kevin Marple


8. III Forks

Overall Score: 89.88
17776 Dallas Pkwy.

Steak: Prices include duchess potatoes, sugar snap peas, creamed corn, ripe tomatoes, and spring onions. Both steaks were nicely seasoned and cooked to our specs. The bone-in had a 2-inch section of gnarly gristle. Scores: filet (12 oz., $47.95)
97, bone-in rib-eye (18 oz., $47.95) 93

Service: Friendly, talkative, and informed. Even though our server had been with the restaurant for only a month, he recited the details of the menu like a veteran. He assured us, “The line in the kitchen is strong tonight.” It was also slow. 90

Wine sell: Maybe we asked too many questions, but the sales pitch lasted nearly 15 minutes. Despite our request for no California
Cabernet, our server took us through five pages of them. Obviously he wanted to show off his knowledge. When I pushed for something funky, he said, “I can offer you a $120 Silverado 2006 for $70. It’s smoother than most.” It wasn’t. 85

Shrimp: We waited 30 minutes for four shrimp splayed across a single leaf of romaine lettuce. The slightly spicy cocktail sauce couldn’t disguise the gritty texture, which caused my mother to say, “I’m from West Texas. I know sand when I taste it.” (U-10, $16.95) 70

Salads: You don’t have to order salad. If you order a steak, they offer complimentary sliced tomatoes and spring onions. But if you want one, the III Forks salad with apples, pecans, and crumbles of blue cheese is one of my favorites. 98

Vegetables: Every steak comes with a thin, runny version of creamed corn and a healthy helping of sugar snap peas and duchess potatoes. 90

Potatoes: Skip the mashed potatoes with chives and garlic, and instead order another loaf of the fabulous, hot bread. 80

Dessert: Bread pudding isn’t my favorite postbeef dessert, but the soft and warm version here is spiked with bourbon and topped with pecan sauce. 93

Ambiance: Sophisticated cowpoke decor with saddles on room dividers and giant antler chandeliers. The two-story restaurant seats more than 1,000, but it is divided into separate, carpeted rooms. We ended up in the least attractive space, facing the bar. The nice man at the piano sang “Moon River” as we gazed at a huge water stain on the ceiling. 90

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