Café Cipriani. (Italian) The newest addition to the Lombardi chain of restaurants may be the best yet. Café Cipriani, across the street from the Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel in Las Colinas, is the sleekest of the Lombardi restaurants to date and offers the most interesting menu. You enter the bar at ground level and take an elevator to the dining room. The surprise is that the striking brass-and-glass elevator takes you downstairs, not up. The dining area itself is subdued; it’s formal, but men without jackets don’t seem out of place.
The food is an intriguing mixture of cucina nuova (the Italian answer to nouvelle cuisine) and a more internationalized, Italian/continental style. Up until now, Dallas has had little to offer in the way of the newer Italian culinary experiments. Café Cipriani gives us some very interesting streamlined versions of older dishes. The artichoke appetizer offers beautifully cooked fresh artichokes, trimmed down to just the tender inner leaves and stuffed, then topped with a lemony sauce and poetically presented with wedges of peeled tomato. The duck salad has meaty slices of duck over lettuce, with a boat of thick raspberry-vinegar dressing on the side.
Pasta offerings are more traditional; we’re crazy about the very delicate linguini car-bonara and the standard Lombardi specialty of crab cannelloni. The fettuccine with tomato and basil, though properly al dente, is bland, with not nearly enough of the fresh herb. The risotto with dried mushrooms is creamy and pungent. All of the pastas are available in half orders as first courses.
The main courses at Cafe Cipriani tend to be heavily sauced and lush-the sensibility is not really very Italian, either traditional or nouvelle-style. But this middle-of-the-road, internationalized fare can be very impressive: Scaloppine of veal with mushrooms and a béarnaiselike sauce has tender meat and rich flavors. The veal Cipriani benefits from slices of fresh artichoke in its creamy sauce. The thicker veal chop is simpler and unexceptional, but the red snapper, cooked with fresh tomato and garlic, asserts itself admirably. Rich tortes, on display throughout the meal, are the best dessert choices. (220 Las Colinas Blvd., Irving. 869-0713. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 7.0
The Café. (American) This place has been open for nearly a year, so it doesn’t fall within our usual guidelines for a “Newcomer,” but we’re so excited about discovering it that we want to tell you all about it. Just off Interstate 30 in Arlington, within sight of Six Flags and Arlington Stadium, The Cafe may be the Metroplex’s great American restaurant-if the term “American” means the food that people around here have eaten for ages. In some ways, the place is deliberately nostalgic: The large dining area is lined with charcoal-gray booths and is lit by pink neon, and such memorabilia as old-fashioned Coca-Cola ice chests are scattered around. But The Café has the feel of the Eighties, and the food consists of old-fashioned favorites that are often given a modern twist.
Let’s face it: 20 years ago, most American food was fried. Nobody fries food any better than The Café does. There are fried mushrooms, zucchini and dill pickle slices. For dessert, there are fried strawberries, accompanied by ice cream. (And if you’re about to say that fried pickles and strawberries sound more like a pregnant-woman joke than something good to eat, we say, “Don’t knock ’em till you’ve tried ’em.”) And there’s the chicken-fried rib eye-unequivocally the finest treatment of that classic Texana dish we’ve ever had.
There are plenty of good things here thatare not fried, however. The vegetable soupis hearty; the steak kebabs, beautifullygrilled and tender; the teriyaki chicken,marvelously juicy. The desserts includesome wonderful ice cream concoctions withchocolate brownies and some good (although not quite so memorable) pies.There’s a full-service bar that offers morethan 80 types of beer. The service is warmand efficient, and the prices are modest. (715A Ryan Plaza Dr., Arlington. Metro 261-1000. Mon-Thur 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Fri & Sat 11:30 a.m.-midnight, Sun 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. All credit cards. $$) 6.5
Joanna. (Continental) Joanna Hazeltine, the proprietress of this new restaurant in the location where Patry’s used to be, was also the namesake of the famous New York restaurant called Joanna. The Dallas restaurant looks more like homey old Patry’s than like a hangout for the jet set. It may be that the cachet of the name will draw glamorous crowds to Joanna, but it won’t be because of the food.
Although the food at Joanna is nothing to complain about, it does disappoint. Take the appetizer called “spicy penne a la vodka,” for example. What sounded a bit racy (pasta with a punch) turned out to be overcooked cylindrical noodles in a red sauce that was too picante. The shrimp bisque with green and white ravioli had a very strong flavor and a consistency so thick it could almost be used as a paste. The paté en croute (served without the okra pickles indicated on the menu) was pleasant but ordinary. The baby new potatoes with caviar and sour cream proved to be our favorite appetizer here. At $8, it was expensive, but even smallish quantities of caviar can justifiably run up the price.
Several of the entrées sounded more promising than they were. The coulibiac of salmon (a classical Russian dish of fish and eggs cooked in a pastry casing) were dry. The roast duck was uninteresting, and the grilled New York sirloin strip, though obviously heavy beef, was too chewy and sinewy. The most interesting main dish, the grilled breast of chicken, was also the least expensive. Its bright yellow color and turmeric flavoring was startling, but the juiciness of the meat was convincing.
The desserts were probably the best thingswe had at Joanna. The crème caramel waswondrously light and delicate, and thecream puffs filled with cherry ice creamwere an intriguing novelty. The lime mousseproved to be more like a lime-flavored saucefolded into strawberries, but was pleasantnonetheless. The prices of the desserts (andof all the courses) were unexpectedly reasonable. If Joanna does turn out to be apopular spot, at least the customers won’thave to be jet setters to be able to afford it. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m. All credit cards. $$$) 6.0
Abio. (Steak/Continental) Now that people are flocking to restaurants in the historical West End warehouse district, can a renaissance of the rest of downtown be far behind? Until recently, most of the more ambitious restaurants in the business district outside the hotels-even the newer ones-only bothered to stay open for lunch. Now, several are trying to stay open for dinner. It’s not yet clear whether they will succeed, but these places are certainly as convenient as those in the West End or on McKinney Avenue.
Abio, the most elaborate place to open in the business district (outside the hotels) in some years, bears the name of its owner, Julian Abio, who was formerly the general manager of the Fairmont. The chef is Remy Thomas, who was at the Fairmont for seven years and at Maxim’s in Paris prior to that. The sleek decor features lots of brass and mahogany against forest-green walls. The service is elaborate but not overbearing, and the atmosphere is marred only by the volume of piano music from the bar area. We are put off a bit by the clumsy pretension of what seems to be the formal name of the place (“A Restaurant Called . . . Abio”), but that is a small matter.
During its first weeks, Abio had more customers at lunch than at dinner, but although the food is good at noon and the place manages to get business diners in and out quickly, the luncheon menu isn’t really all that exciting. Sandwiches, omelettes and daily specials are offered. The sautéed scallops with mushrooms in a wine sauce are pleasant without being memorable, and the chicken-fried steak has good gravy and mashed potatoes.
In the evening, there’s a wide choice of appetizers. The onion soup is an excellent version, as is the coarse, meaty terrine maison. The oysters Bienville don’t suffer from the goopy topping that kills so many baked oysters; the bacon and seasonings predominate here in a rendition that’s better than most we’ve had in the dish’s native city, New Orleans. The crab-meat meuniere (hunks of crab sautéed in brown butter) is simple but delicious. The cognac salad is a bit oversold-it’s essentially just a spinach-and-bacon salad in which the dollop of brandy is difficult to distinguish-but it and the Caesar salad are excellent. Of the appetizers, the only major disappointment is the linguini Alfredo: It was mushy and oddly flavored with garlic.
The big specialty at Abio is beef, and it’s apparent that the restaurant does have a supply of genuine heavy beef, although we’ve had steaks that were more tender and juicy. The T-bone is impressively hefty, and the peppered steak (a treatment available with sirloin, filet or rib-eye) has a fine sauce. Both the veal grenadine and the saddle of rabbit are interesting alternatives to the steaks and are considerably less expensive. Side dishes, especially a buttery combination of wild and white rice, are very impressive, and the desserts are fine. At lunchand dinner, complimentary valet parking isavailable, making Abio easily accessible.(One Dallas Centre, Bryan at St. Paul. 922-9070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. Lunch $$, dinner $$$) 6.0
Deli Italia. (Italian/Deli). Farther south and east of Abio, another experienced restaurateur, Morris Robbins (the owner of L’Ambiance), has also taken a chance on a new spot in a downtown location. The neighborhood is more out-of-the-way, and so far, the luncheon crowds have been sparse and dinner has only been offered intermittently. The lack of response is too bad, since Deli Italia is an appealing place in a lovely old building (a remodeled fire station) with plenty of parking nearby.
The odd name reflects the dual nature of the place. At lunch, it serves both delicatessen items and Italian dishes. The deli items are the standard sandwiches; we enjoyed a tasty (if rather fatty) hot pastrami, even though it was undressed and served on rather soft, namby-pamby rye bread. Both the potato salad and the coleslaw are more refined than the usual versions, and the cheesecakes are tasty and creamy enough to tempt even the most virtuous dieter.
The Italian side of the menu is more substantial, and the Italian dishes are the only ones offered in the evening. The kitchen does much well, from unusual appetizers such as mozzarella in carrozza (cheese “in a carriage’-that is, hidden in bread, lightly fried and topped with a bit of sauce) to desserts such as ices, cannoli and Belvedere (a concoction of cake, strawberries, pastry cream and whipped cream). Even dishes that can be ordinary, such as the green salad, benefit from fine olive oil and careful proportions. The lasagna got mixed reviews from our party: Some thought it was too dense and formidable, while others thought it was the best they’d ever tasted. There are some disappointments, though, such as a couple of dishes served with lemon sauce so lemony and glutinous that it reminded us of a pie filling. But the scampi underneath were beautifully cooked, and the sauce problem could be corrected easily by a recipe that added more garlic and cut down on the cornstarch.
At lunch, the hot seafood antipasto was an intriguing mixture of unusual shellfish (were those tiny oysters or an unusual variety of clam?), but the mixture seemed a bit overcooked and overly spiced. The pasta with pesto wasn’t as good as the real Italian thing, but then no pesto we’ve tasted in an American restaurant ever has been. We hope that Deli Italia will get its act more completely together and find its audience, because thereare a great many appealing things about thisrestaurant. (2121 Main at Central Expwy. 939-0666. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3. All creditcards. $$) 5.5
Bobbi. (Eclectic) The newest enterprise of the Vaccaro group of restaurants (which includes the Old Warsaw and Mario’s), has a new, hip style. Bobbi is as much a bar as a place to eat. The dining area is a bit more conservative than the rather hard-edged adjoining disco, but the sound seeps through, and it’s hard to forget that you’re in a “fun” environment. The menu is as trendy as the clientele: One might be tempted to call it short-order nouvelle.
The food can be pretty good. Among the appetizers, the sashimi (spelled “sushimi” on the menu, as though the folks couldn’t decide whether to serve sushi or sashimi) is intriguing: paper-thin slices of beef and tuna with dipping sauces of soy and hot-pepper oil. The gazpacho is from an excellent rec-ipe, and the fresh taste of the vegetables is appealing. The Bobbi salad (the house name seems to be attached to concoctions that include duck and onion, both here and among the pizzas) combines the fowl with oranges; it’s pleasant but not memorable. The marinated octopus salad, served rather inanely on a wedge of honeydew, turns out to be surprisingly tender and juicy.
The main dishes don’t fare as well as the surprisingly tasty appetizers, but most are serviceable. The least pleasing is the pizza; the topping of prosciutto and mozzarella is fine, but the crust is tough and doughy. The pasta (we tried the shells stuffed with ricotta and smoked salmon and topped with pesto) seems to be a better choice. The grilled tuna is accompanied by an interesting onion marmalade (sweet, but not unpleasantly so), and the Texas omelette (scrambled eggs wrapped in a flour tortilla) is seriously spicy.
Except for a smashing selection of sorbets made with an artificial sweetener, the desserts here are disappointing. The chocolate mousse is really a mousse cake and is virtually tasteless, and the other vaunted chocolate dessert is little more than a fudge sundae. The wine list is shorter than at many places, and the service staff can find itself overextended on occasion. (NorthPark East, 8854 N. Central Expwy. 691-5833. Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sat 11 a.m.-4 a.m., Sun 11 a.m.-midnight. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
Sfizi. (Italian) The burgeoning West End historical district now has three Italian restaurants within one block. The newest, Sfizi, is an unpretentious cafe with high-tech decorations and plain concrete floors. Several waiters are Italian, and the place has a charming air of authenticity.
The food is on a short menu, with most of the more elaborate dishes written on a blackboard as specials of the day. One of the principal offerings is pizza-a delicious version with a thick but very crisp crust. Those on the menu have unusual and authentic toppings; we liked the one with prosciutto. All the pizzas come in one 10-inch size.
Other dishes range from adequate friedcalamari to a tasty baked ziti casserole. Thebest dish we have sampled so far is a delicateeggplant stuffed with ricotta; the least appealing is a chicken parmigiana in which thebreaded chicken breast reminded us of afrozen cutlet. The Sfizi salad is a kind ofskimpy antipasto with ham, cheese, walnutsand capers. Although we found the dessertices extremely variable (the chocolate wasnearly inedible, while the lemon was tartand refreshing), the cannoli, crisp and witha fresh-tasting filling, was among the best intown. (1718 Market. 698-9390. Mon-Thur 11-11; Fri & Sat 11 a.m.-4a.m., Sun 11 a.m.-midnight. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Shogun of Japan. (Japanese) This tiny imitation of a Japanese inn, located a bit south of Love Field, even smells new with its freshly varnished wood. But its approach to Japanese dining in America is mostly as old-fashioned as that of its sister restaurant, Royal Tokyo. The emphasis is on Americanized combination dinners-a bit of tempura, a bit of teriyaki and the like. We were infuriated, in fact, when our waitress told us that the beef dish we had ordered, shabu shabu, could only be cooked for two (there was no indication of this on the short a la carte section of the menu) and then agreed to serve the dish for one on a combination dinner when we pointed it out on the menu.
Sadly, the shabu shabu turned out not to be worth the struggle. The broth that the beef and vegetables were cooked in was utterly tasteless. The tempura was a bit better, but the dish is only at its best when diners sit around a chef who doles out pieces of fried seafood and vegetables as soon as they come out of the oil. Pieces of fried chicken, since they are less delicate, proved more satisfying. The tastiest of the cooked dishes is probably the ginger beef, which was slightly undercooked and heavy on the ginger.
In addition to two rooms with tables and a small tatami room, there is a sushi bar to the right of the entrance. It seems to have plenty of business, and rightly so, since the sushi and sashimi are impeccably fresh and offer plenty of variety. A large assortment can be ordered in the dining room on a dinner combination, though for a rather steep price ($19.95). Since we experienced some other problems with the service in the dining room (not all of which can be attributed to a newly opened restaurant’s growing pains), it might be more wise to eat your raw fish at the sushi bar. (5738 Cedar Springs at Inwood. 351-2281. Lunch: daily 11:15-1:45; dinner: daily 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
DOWNTOWN/WEST END
Antares. (Continental) This is the perfect spot for avisitor to Dallas who is staying at the Hyatt Regency: Ithas an excellent view, good food and adequate service. By the same token, Antares is not an extraordinaryplace for Dallasites who have already seen the view.The specialty here is beef-excellent aged beef, including prime rib that’s of melt-in-the-mouth quality. A smallsampling of seafood and fowl is also available, as wellas a few basic appetizer offerings such as shrimp cocktail and somewhat unimaginative escargots. Dessertsare plentiful and full of pizazz. (300 Reunion Blvd. 741-3663. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; dinner: daily 6-11; Sun brunch: 10:30-2:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$) 4.0
Café Cancun. (Mexican) See Park Cities/Lovers Lane. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 969-0244. Mon-Fri 11 am-7 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.5
D Café Royal. (French/Continental) This excellent restaurant seems to be struggling to find its niche in the hierarchy of Dallas’ French kitchens. The latest gimmick is what Cafe Royal calls its menu de degustation, which usually means a multi-course sampling of the chefs specialties. Here it’s reallyjust a prix fixe dinner in which the diner has few choices,but it may be more of a bargain than ordering a la carte.And the chef seems to give more attention to it, so thefood may be better than items ordered randomly off themenu. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Jackets andties required. All credit cards. $$$$) 8.0
Ceret. (French/Continental) Francophiles continue to rally around what may be the one true French bistro (translation: solid French cooking at moderate prices) in town, but we find that the “haute-y” air here can be stifling. Nevertheless, the food is mostly of the highest quality, and at $20 for four courses, who’s complaining? We have hit a sour note occasionally: The salmon mousse appetizer, for instance, had an unpleasantly pasty consistency and a canned taste. However, a special, calamari (squid), was meltingly tender and sauced to perfection. Soups are generally excellent: We love the mussel soup and the potage aux champignon (a soup du |our), and the oxtail soup is hearty without be-ing heavy. All the seafood entrees are honest and well-prepared, but the rib-eye steak, our waiter warned us,”is not much better than you would get at Cork &Cleaver,” so beware. Two huge scoops of homemadesorbet or the chef’s puff pastry with vanilla sauce top offa meal handsomely. (703 McKinney in the Brewery.720-0297. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Wed 6:30-10:30, Thur-Sat 6:30-11:30. Closed Sun. MC.V, AE. $$$) 6.5
Charcuterie. (Lunch) Sanger Harris does an uncommonly good job with their in-house eatery. The croissants are warm and flaky, and if you’re into salads of any persuasion, they’re bound to serve them here. The onion-mushroom soup deliciously offers the best of two favorites. The sandwich offerings are intriguing;the chicken breast with cheese on a croissant was particularly good. (Sanger Hams, 303 N Akard. 749-3990- Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3. Closed Sat & Sun. AE, Sanger Hams charge $$) 5.0
Ferrari’s. (Italian) Certainly the most confusing Italianrestaurant in town, this new spot can seem wonderfuland dismal on consecutive visits. Go for the appetizersand the snapper cooked in an ivory sauce. The pastadishes are inconsistent, but they can be very fine. Wewonder why the salads have to be comprised solely oficeberg lettuce-if this is a trend, we hope it doesn’tcatch on. (1713 Market. 741-5538. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2;dinner: Tue-Thur & Sun 5:30-10 30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11;Sun brunch: 11-2:30 MC, V, AE. $$$) 7.0
D The French Room. (French Nouvelle) With its heavy rose-colored draperies and gilt trim, this is the most formal dining room in Dallas. And it’s still probably the best kitchen, too. Few restaurants combine dependability and excitement so well. Weloved everything about our last meal here, from thelovely salad with goat cheese to the feuillete of berriessurrounded by hot caramel sauce. But be forewarned:If you go in for the lobster or the pastry stuffed with awhole truffle, your meal will be the most expensive in thecity, as well as the most elaborate. (Adolphus Hotel,1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30 pm.Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0
Hampton’s Seafood Market. (Seafood) For a Hampton’s sampler, start with a bowl of the unusually thick,murky gumbo, redolent of bay leaves, sage and themysterious je ne sais quoi that belongs to this dish. Aftera crab or oyster cocktail, try the salad platter, featuring mounds of tuna, halibut and crab with a heap of savory coleslaw. On the way out, browse through the market, which features fresh, flown-in herring, sea bass, Louisiana extra-select oysters and other treasures from the deep. (801 S Pearl. 742-4668. Mon-Wed 8 am-6:30 pm, Thur-Sat 8-8, Sun 8 am-5 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$) See Preston Royal. 6.5
D REVISITS
D Newport’s. (Seafood) We had heard somedisturbing reports about this favorite seafood restaurant, and we had a less-than-happy experience there ourselves at a recent lunchmarred by high noise levels and scallops (servedwith angel-hair pasta) that didn’t taste fresh. Butwhen we went back, we had better luck-nicelysautéed shrimp, broiled swordfish and some of thebest fried potatoes in town. (703 McKinney in the Brewery. 954-0220. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11.Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$) 8.0
Pacific Express. (Nouvelle Lunch) New downtown restaurants are popping up as fast as skyscrapers; one of the nicest is Pacific Express, next door to the Majestic Theater. You’ll never eat in a fancier place where youhave to carry your own food on a tray. The food mightbe characterized as “New Wave tearoom.” You’ll findsalads and sandwiches and desserts, plus suitable accompaniments such as fresh-squeezed orange juiceand several vintages of wine available by the glass. Themeat in the chicken salad has been smoked, and it’scoated with shallot-vermouth mayonnaise. Fresh pastasalad comes with peas, cherry tomatoes, goat cheeseand pesto sauce. (1910 Pacific, Suite 130. 969-7447. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. No creditcards. $$) 5.5
The Palm. (Steaks & Seafood) This new branch of the famous New York restaurant is for big spenders. Are you ready for a lobster that costs $72 – without salad or potatoes? Our New York strip was disappointing: The meat wasn’t as butter-rich and tender as corn-fed beef should be, and it had been so carelessly cooked that it tasted of nothing but its charred exterior. It’s too bad that the star attractions of the Palm were such busts,because there was a lot of good cooking going on inother departments. The potato dishes (the crunchyhashbrowns and the crisp, thin cottage fries especially) and the delicate strings of onion rings were sensational, although we couldn’t understand why they wereserved before the appetizers and a half hour before themeats they were meant to accompany. Lunches aren’tas devastating to the pocketbook, but the food is evenless successful. (701 Ross. 698-0470. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm. Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-9:30 pm All credit cards. $$$$) 6.0
Pranzo’s. (Italian/Lunch) When you get right down to it, there aren’t many nice places downtown where you can enjoy a basic business lunch. Despite the good food, Pranzo’s doesn’t quite fill the void. At this downtown lunch spot, we tried a salad of mozzarella, tomatoes and zucchini with basil dressing that would make a delicious light lunch in itself. Sfinciuni, much like a delicate, double-doughed pizza encasing a hearty filling of either cheese and vegetables or sausage and ham, was delicious. But the restaurant has alreadysparked a reputation of being too slow for anyone withhopes of returning to work with time left in the day, andon our first visit, the service was confused to the pointof being comical. (SPG Building, 1530 Main, second floor. 698-0493. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. MC, V. AE, DC. $$$) 5.0
Richard’s Café Americain. (Lunch) If you’re the type of person who favors light Iunchtime fare, replete with colorful patés, spiced tea, tiny muffins with strawberry butter and inventive variations on salad and sandwich themes- in short, if the word “dainty” is for you an appealing adjective-then climb high atop the Manor House to this cozy little tearoom in the sky. It’s brightly adorned with pleasing pastel colors and original art, and the service is both competent and attentive. A pianist adds spice to the melange in the afternoons. (Manor House, 1222 Commerce. 25th floor. 761-0143. Lunch: daily 11-2:30; tea: daily 3-5: happy hour: Mon-Fri 5-7; Sun brunch: 11-3. MC, V. AS, DC $) 5.0
D Restaurant Silvano. (Continental) For the first part of our evening here, we were about to crown this place one of the new rulers of Dallas dining It is lovely, with its arched hideaways and warm lighting, and our food (except for an overly alcoholic souffle) was fabulous. The duck pate had a piquant bite, the lobster soup was rich, and two varieties of fish were perfectly poached (salmon with a red pepper sauce and snapper with a leek sauce). Even our salads were memorable. But as the dinner progressed and the room grew more crowded, the din became overwhelming. The noise took the glow off an otherwise memorable evening. (311 Market Street. 747-0322. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$$) 8.0
Tangerine. (Chinese) This informally elegant new Chinese restaurant is one of the best restaurants downtown. Beautiful porcelain figures and dark orange accents lend a festive air to the high-windowed rooms with their dramatic views of the new skyscrapers in the neighborhood. The food is excellent, too; one senses a definite desire to avoid cliche. But for now. Tangerine is open only for lunch. (2401 Ross, 969-1011. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. MC, V, DC.$) 6.0
MCKINNEY/OAK LAWN
Adriano’s. (Italian) The delights of salmon-and-goat-cheese pizza don’t seem to have caught on in Dallas theway they have in Los Angeles. Can it be that we’re obtuse here, or just more sensible? Even if you don’t go forAdriano’s more exotic offerings, you can enjoy pizzawith pancetta (an Italian version of bacon), crispy brownroast chicken or any of a number of other not-too-trendyitems. The rich chocolate ice cream is a good follow-up.(The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 871-2262. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11.Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$) 6.0
The Bronx. (Eclectic) After our recent meal here, we’re ready to hand out “Honk if you love the Bronx” bumper sticKers. bverytning from start (chunky, lemony gua-camole with crisp tostadas) to finish (a not-too-sweet but creamy amaretto cheesecake) was a delight. The menu is not expansive, to say the least: Variations on the omelette theme are the mainstays. But the omelettes, sautéed in butter, are fluffy and filling, and they come with various side dishes, such as bagels or Italian sausage (try one with a glass of delicious spiced iced tea). The wooden booths lining the walls make intimate conversations easy; the service is prompt and efficient. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-3: dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30 pm-12:30 am, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-1:30 am: Sun brunch: 11-3. MC. V. AE. $$) 5.0
Café Rlncón. (Mexican) If you stick to the best dishes here, you can get a sensational meal served on the shady patio. Café Rincón serves the tenderest, most buttery-tasting beef in town in its Mexican steak dishes and alambres (shish kebab). The red snapper is always impeccably fresh and can be ordered with a picante veracruzana sauce of peppers, onions and tomatoes or with mole de ajo, a strong garlic butter. The service iswarm and efficient beyond compare-we don’t know ofa friendlier restaurant. (2818 Harry Hines. 742-4906. Mon- Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5 pm-midnght. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$) 6.5
D Calluaud. (French) After a rather disappointing lunch not long ago, we went back to Dallas’ establishment French restaurant, and we’re happy to report that all was well. The appetizers showed that owner/chef Guy Calluaud is willing to buck French tradition if a good idea comes to him: Where in the old country can you find a refined version of ceviche cloaked under the description “marinated seafood salad”? Our mam courses (which were where we had problems the last time) were back on track, with perfectly cooked scallops and sweetbreads, both of which had just the right touch of garlic. We also detected a local influence in one of the luscious desserts-or do they really make lemon tarts with fluffy meringue tops in La Belle France? (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat seatingsat 7 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and tiesrequired. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0
D REVISITS
Chiquita. (Mexican) A visit to Chiquita, one ofDallas’ best Mexican restaurants for many years, isalways a pleasure. We find it hard not to order oneof the delicious beef dishes, and on our last visit thefilete de casa, spiked with garlic and peppers andaccompanied by a cheese taco and a boiledpotato, was splendid, as usual. The shrimp in basilsauce, delicate and carefully seasoned, proved arewarding novelty. The best desserts here are theice creams: piquant cinnamon and rich coconut.(3810 Congress. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$) 6.5
Chow To Go. (Gourmet Carryout) Caterer Mike Hearn has opened a takeout establishment with a few tables available for eating lunch on the premises. A blackboard beautifully decorated with colored-chalk drawings of flowers advertises the selection of sandwiches. They sound fairly far-out, and they taste that way, too. The lamb sandwich, for instance, comes with caprino (a goat cheese that’s made in Dallas) and sun-dried tomatoes-but it comes off as a trifle gimmicky and even a bit dry. The sandwich of smoked turkey, jack cheese, guacamole and salsa is much more successful. Perhaps the best things at Chow to Go are the baked goods. Muffins are available in many flavors, as are the brownies and the extraordinary cookies. (2404 Cedar Springs at Maple. 871-7145. Mon-Sat 10 am-7 pm No credit cards for purchases under $25: MC, V. $$) 5.5
Ciao. (Italian) Although pink neon, a checkerboard-tiled floor and a gallery of black-and-white photographs speckled with colored glitter beckoned us inside, the real welcome at Ciao was its carefully prepared (andamply proportioned) Italian offerings. We started ciao-ing down on a salad that was topped with mounds ofParmesan and freshly ground pepper and was accompanied by a complimentary loaf of hot, crusty bread.We also tried an appetizer of fettuccine, rich andcreamy with spicy bits of bacon, and a gourmet pizzaadorned with spinach sautéed in garlic butter andpimentos. Stuffed but not daunted, we ended our feastwith a piece of nutty, spicy Italian Wedding Cake-trulya marriage made in heaven. (3921 Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Mon-Sat noon-midnight, Sun 5 pm-midmght. MC. V, AE. $$) 6.0
Clalr de Lune. (Traditional French) Located in one corner of the Quadrangle, this handsome French restaurant offers good (although not consistently good) food at moderate prices. Opting for lunch inside the airy dining room (there’s also a popular outdoor patio), we began our meal with a pleasantly spicy gazpacho. Our entrees were enjoyable but uneven in quality: The trout amandine was delicious, but the accompanying potatoes were a disappointment; the roast beef sandwich was dressed in too much cabbage, but the bread wascrunchy and fresh. This trend continued with the desserts- although the chocolate mousse was rich, the texture was grainy, and the apple pie won’t satisfy anysweet tooths. Service was crisp and has vastly improved from past visits (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 871-2288 Mon-Wed 11 am-midnight, Thur-Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun 11-11. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
Crackers. (Greek/Eclectic) Greek food is the specialty at this 81 -year-old house on McKinney Avenue, but you’ll also find quiche, burgers, sandwiches, soups and assorted entrees such as steak and fish. Both the mous-saka and souflaki are fine, while the spanokopita (a flaky phyllo pastry filled with spinach and feta cheese) is exciting but very rich. Soups are usually good, and the large Greek salad is wonderful. (2621 McKinney. 827-1660. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11-3, Sun 11-5; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. MC, V.AE.$$) 5.5
Cremona. (Northern Italian) Tucked away on a side street off Cedar Springs. Cremona is a restaurant with no pretensions. A typical luncheon menu might offerone appetizer (sautéed mushrooms with garlic), a widechoice of pastas and a single lackluster chicken dish.Among the pastas, the toriellini was delicate and rich;the lasagna, good but unprepossessing. Although wedon’t usually like flavored cheesecake, the one withamaretto is a fine end to a meal. (2600 Woodrow between Cedar Springs and Routh. 742-4330. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11 Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
D. Michael. (Nouvelle) This new arrival serves some of the farthest-out nouvelle cuisine in town. Not all the recipes sound as strange as the “breast of moulard duck with candied jalapenos. served with cassis sauce,” but most of them are pretty recherche, whatever their description. The general complaint here is that wonderfully cooked meat is accompanied by blah sauces, the primary exception being the Pacific king salmon roasted with thyme, tarragon and fennel. The presentation of five colorful scoops of sorbet on one dish is lovely, but who needs three melon ices (honeydew. cantaloupe ana watermelon) in a single serving-especially if theother two are mango and blackberry? (2917 Fairmount. 871-0123. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. $$$) 6.0
Fuddrucker’s. (Burgers) Fuddrucker’s lives up to its boast of presenting the “world’s greatest hamburgers’ The home-baked buns are grilled to perfection, and the meat is tender and juicy. The other sandwiches may be even better -the steak sandwich is a sizable rib-eye, the hot dogs come with two lengthy links, and there are both white and red sausages for wurst fans. All these can be fixed up to the individual’s taste at bars bursting with onions, tomatoes and pickles. Avoid the desserts at the bakery counter: Both kinds of cookies and the brownies are tasteless and overpriced. (2614 McKinney. 871-2068. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V. AE. $) See Upper Greenville/North Central. 6.0
Herrera. (Tex-Mex) The most outstanding characteristic of this pleasantly dumpy Tex-Mex house is its small-ness. Hot hot sauce, greaseless tacos and dynamite flour tortillas may draw hungry crowds to Herrera, but you can bet that the masses don’t sit down to sup together-there isn’t room. But if you don’t mind a line and guaranteed tight quarters, if you’re looking for authenticity and for fresh, high-quality ingredients, and if your tongue is flame-retardant, then head for Herrera. (3902 Maple. 526-9427 Mon. Wed & Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun 9 am- 10 pm. Closed Tue. No credit cards. $) 5.5
J. Pepe Gonzalez. (Mexican) This fancy Mexican restaurant in the Quadrangle isn’t for purists (the marga-ritas are sweetish, and the food doesn’t have much zing to it), but there seems to be an infinitely expandable market for safe, responsibly prepared Mexican specialties. The combination plates provide lots of variety-there are several with excellent sour cream chicken enchiladas as well as the ones made with beef. Probably the most unusual among the more authentic Mexican dishes are the shrimp-and-spinach enchiladas. They aren’t particularly exciting, but it was niceto know we were getting our daily quota of green vegetables. Polio a la Pepe (grilled breast of chicken) andthe carnitas dinner (with three baked pork burritos)were substantial and tasty. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh 871-0366 Mon-Thur 11 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm, Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-11 pm, Sat 11-11, Sun noon-9 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.0
D REVISITS
D Jean Claude. (Classic French) Has Monsieur Prevot. the distinguished owner/chef, started to show signs of boredom now that he has returned to his own kitchen? Our first couple of courses on our last visit here were well below his lofty standards: goat cheese suffered from being wrapped in a gummy pastry, escargots were ho-hum and pineapple sorbet reminded us of theprosaic sherbets of our childhood. We were happier with our main courses, especially the lusciouslobster, although the duck in a ginger sauce didn’thave quite as crisp a crust as we remembered. Thechocolate souffles at the end were as heavenly asalways. (2404 Cedar Springs. 748-6619. Tue-Satseatings at 6 & 9 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations required. MC, V, AE. DC. $$$$) 9.0
D Jennivine. (Continental) Heavens! Jennivine, once a bastion of excellent, rather down-home British-style cooking, has gone nouvelle on us. No more simply broiled fish, no more bowls of delicious mashed potatoes and home-style carrots. Now. poached salmon comes with an arty sauce and a spray of underdone vegetables on the side. You can also find the likes of quail with passion-fruit sauce. The food, mind you, is still excellent – and, given the level of the cooking, is actually underpriced. But we confess that we do miss the old style a bit, since nearly every other place in town is going the chichi nouvelle route. At least we can content ourselves with the extraordinary plates of patés and cheeses-they’re just like the Jennivine of old. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$) 7.5
Jozef’s. (Seafood) This pleasant seafood restaurant, with its small dining room and rough wood walls, is warm yet elegant. We began our meal with fresh, chilled oysters on the half shell and ceviche, a tangy, fresh combination of fish, onion, tomato, green pepper and cilantro in a lime-juice marinade. Our entrees, however, drew mixed responses. The scallops in cream sauce had a wonderful flavor, but they were rather tough. And the Maine lobster, likewise, was sweet in flavor but chewy in texture. But the chocolate mousse cake (which looked exactly like a pie) was a melt-in-your-mouth ending. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560.Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards.$$$) See Stemmons/Bachman Lake. 5.5
D L’Ambiance. (French Nouvelle) We love this place so much that we’re even becoming convinced it has atmosphere. Maybe it’s the talented guitarist who plays during dinner that compensates for the crowded tables. But it’s the food that has us hooked, although on our last visit, the appetizer of noodles in a basil and tomato sauce was overcooked and flavorless. But it was clear sailing from there: The thin slices of poached salmon in a rich green sauce, the crisp sliced duckling in raspberry sauce and the sau-téed striped bass were without flaw. Don’t skip the salad or the desserts here; the watercress with bacon and goat cheese, the Concord cake of chocolate and meringue and the Floating Island dessert are all great. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. All creditcards. $$$) 8.0
La Trattoria Lombardl. (Northern Italian) More than any other type of food, Italian cuisine sets a mood, and Lombardi’s hot, creamy pasta manages to warm and relax you and make life in general seem considerably more pleasant. At La Trattoria, quiet music, brick archways and traditionally good-natured and competent service completed the spell that began when we sampled several appetizers. Carpaccia (perfectly spiced, paper-thin slices of juicy raw beef served with capers and light Dijon mustard) practically dissolved in our mouths. But the veal with sweetbreads and the chef’s own recipe for homemade green lasagna were the crowning glories of the evening. (2916 Hall. 823-6040; 528-7506. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards.$$$) 6.0
D La Viellle Varsovie (The Old Warsaw).(French/Continental) This grand old place is aDallas tradition, with its violinist and pianist andits flamingoes on the walls. Our last meal was a trifledisappointing (the pastry in our salmon feuillete wastough, for instance), but there’s no doubt that standardsare higher here than they were a few years ago. The ornate salads and the dessert souffles are consistentlysatisfying. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required.All credit cards. $$$$) 8.0
Lawry’s. (Prime Rib) There’s something reassuring about Lawry’s unabashed adulation of thick, juicy red meat. Here’s an establishment that has refused to succumb to the nouvelle bent, and the result is solid, satisfying fare: top cuts of prime rib cooked the way you like it, a choice of potatoes (we liked the oven-roasted version best), thick slices of hot sourdough bread and awine list that’s appropriately strong on full-bodied reds.We like the Old-World look of the neoclassical fagadeand the clubby feeling of the bar and dining rooms. Itseems a little like another era-even another city. (3008 Maple. 521-7777. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30, Sun 4-10.All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
Les Saisons. (Country French) This is a lovely place for lunch or dinner, although the construction going on outside has detracted from the view from the dining rooms. The standard bistro menu is executed with aplomb, and you can find all the old favorites, from pate to chocolate mousse. Ordering a steak will get you exquisite french fries as accompaniments. (Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn, Suite 165. 528-1102. Sun-Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservationsrecommended. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5
Lucas’ B&B. (American/Breakfast) Our previousreviews of this Oak Lawn institution were more thanglowing, but our last visit was disappointing. It occurredto us that regardless of how charmed we are by thewaitresses’ beehive hairdos and the orange vinylbooths, $4.55 is pretty steep for two eggs, a patty ofsausage, two biscuits and coffee with one warm-up-especially since our Saturday morning service was slowand careless. Lucas’ may be an endearingly Texanplace to take visitors from out of town, but for the working man’s breakfast, we’ll opt for Bubba’s. (3520 Oak Lawn. 526-8525. Daily 24 hours, except 1:45-3 pm. MC, V. $) 2.5
D The Mansion on Turtle Creek. (American Nouvelle) The miracle in the kitchen here continues on apace-and of course, this has always been one of the grandest-looking restaurants in town. Most of the menu is now nouvelle to the point ofoverkill. On our last visit, we marveled over an appetizerof red shrimp, a salad of smoked tuna and a side dishof grilled asparagus. Even old favorites such as greenpasta with medallions of lobster had a wonderful newtaste; for once, the shellfish was tender and the pastaal dente. We also found that the service was morepleasant than before, although we still hear complaintsthat it can be haughty and sullen. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room (jackets and ties required, except at brunch) – lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:30; brunch: Sat noon-2, Sun 11-2: dinner: Sun-Thur6-10:30,Fri & Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Promenade Room – breakfast: daily 7-10:30: lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$) 8.5
Mario’s. (Italian/Continental) Red velvet walls, water-colors of game birds and classical music give this Italian restaurant its longstanding reputation for ritziness. Perfectly prepared beef tournedos make this place morethan just a line purveyor of pasta and veal. The pricesare high, but justifiably so, and the service is pleasant,though at times a little forgetful. The management ofMario’s has done a good job of not allowing this Dallaslegend to decline. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawnat Blackburn. 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5
Marty’s. (Gourmet Carryout) Our dream is to be ableto afford to do all of our grocery shopping at thisgranddaddy-of-’em-all gourmet carryout shop. Specialty foods from around the world are offered here:scores of imported cheeses, homemade patés andcarryout entrees such as duckling, pasta (the tortelliniis superb), aged meats, smoked meats and a variety ofFrench specialties. The desserts (mostly pastries) arescrumptious; the cheesecake (which comes in a variety of flavors) is extra special. Marty’s is the perfect placeto pick up everything -appetizers, entrees, desserts,coffee and wine-and then take it all home and pretendyou made it yourself. (3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE, Marty’s charge. $$) 7.0
Moctezuma’s. (Mexican) A few blocks down from its old location, the new Moctezuma’s has lots of space and a patio out front. The food, starting with great chips and hot hot sauce, can be excellent. The appetizerplate is grandiose, with flautas and spinach quesadillasin addition to the usual guacamole and nachos. Thestandard Tex-Mex, including homemade tamales, isfine, but the many specialty dishes deserve the namethe restaurant gives itself: “gourmet Mexican.” Thecarnitas of pork, wrapped in a flour tortilla, are delicateand come with a sauce loaded with fresh cilantro (3202 McKinney. 559-3010. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat fullmenu 11 am-11:30 pm; appetizers 11:30 pm-12.30 am. Reservations for parties of six or more. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
Raphael’s. (Mexican) We had almost given up on the old locations of Raphael’s on McKinney and on Greenville, but the new place on the Addison strip seems to embody the virtues that once made Raphael’s the top Mexican restaurant in town. The food is good, from a simple plate of enchiladas to such complexities as car-nitas of beef, grilled shrimp with lots of garlic andchicken breast covered with cheese and lots of cookedfresh peppers, onions and olives. Even more refreshingis the solicitous service we encountered at the new BeltLine location (the waiters at the older ones sometimeshave seemed to be competing for new levels of churlishness). Our only problem with the new spot is thateveryone else in North Dallas seems to have discovered it too. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-3 pm & 5:30-10:30 pm. Sat noon-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. MC, V, AE, CB. $$) See Upper Greenville/North Central, Addison/Richard-son/Far North Dallas. 5.5
Ratcllffe’s. (Seafood) On our latest visit to one of Dallas’ favorite seafood restaurants, we were daunted by the appetizers-a bland assortment of crab, shrimp and oysters and a strange fish mousse covered with a filet of smoked salmon and served cold – but the rest of the meal was heavenly. The grilled swordfish couldn’t havebeen sweeter or juicier, and an extravagant dish of filetsof three different kinds of fish sautéed and served overvegetables with a light sauce was succulent. Did we sayheavenly? Maybe we should have said “astronomical”- prices here rival all but the most expensive Frenchrestaurants. (1901 McKinney. 748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations. All creditcards. $$$) 6.5
Rocco Oyster Bar. (Seafood) Are we just getting blase, or is the high-tech look getting a bit dated? We find that the lower, patiolike room at Rocco is nicer to look at than the chic starkness of the main room. Luckily, the food holds up better than the decor. We like having a choice among oyster varieties, and the crab meat cocktail is generous in size, though pricey. Both broiled fish entrees we tried – redfish and salmon – were done to a turn. Desserts are mostly ice-cream pies-again, pleasant but rather overpriced. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight, Sun 4-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.5
D Routh Street Café. (American Nouvelle) This is the hardest restaurant at which to get a reservation in town, and perhaps the finest as well. The new American cuisine includes exquisite preparations of every dish, starting with the muffins-flavored perhaps with squash or hickory nuts-that begin the meal. Among the choice items on the menu, which changes daily, are the flaky tart filled with wild mushrooms, the game dishes (the wild boar was divine-unexpectedly mild and tender), the unusual sorbets and ices and the rich, rich desserts. The wine list, printed by a computer daily, contains only American vintages-too bad if you had your heart set on a French grand cru to accompany the wonderful food. (3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Lounge: Mon-Fri 4:30 pm-1:30 am, Sat 6 pm-1:30 am. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0
Uptown Deli. (Gourmet Carryout) It seems that Dallas’ appetite for gourmet-to-go is insatiable: Yet another chic little takeout place-cum-caterer has opened on lower McKinney. Not to sound blase, but there are the usual oh-so-trendy salads, a quiche of the day and sandwich fare on croissants. You’ll find some novel twists, however: hot Mexican panuchos (flour tortillaspacked with cheese, ham and stickto-the-ribs refritos)and a special ’San Francisco-style” (whatever that is) entree each day. The sweets reflect the same care andquality as everything else; we especially like the rich,thick cheesecake. But why, oh why, do they have toclose at 3 pm? (2404 McKinney. 871-7120. Mon-Fri 10 am-3 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. No credit cards; personalchecks accepted. $$) 5.5
D REVISITS
Szechuan. (Chinese) Starting with one of the most generous pu-pu platters we’ve seen, our meal here was well worth the wait – and there wasn’t much of a wait. The spareribs are unusually thick and juicy, and the entrees were a delight, whether simple (sweet-and-sour chicken) or complex (moo shi pork and Lake Tung Ting Shrimp). The lunch specials, by the way, are available on the weekenas. (4 117 Lemmon, 521-6981. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
Via Veneto. (Northern Italian) In the former quarters of Sergio’s, under the same ownership and with the same phone number, Via Veneto really is a new restaurant – with a new menu and new ambitions to match. Many of the antipasto dishes are based on shellfish. Perhaps the best is a dish of large scallops tossed with strips of peppers and slices of black olives. Most of the pasta dishes are available either in smaller portions as first courses or as main courses. It’s hard to choose among the spinach ravioli in a fresh-tasting tomato puree, the tortellini in a richly colored sauce, the fettuccine with mushrooms and ham and the tagliarini tossed with bits of fresh clams. The most promising entrees are those from the grill: The thick veal chop, still on its bone, came off the fire at just the right moment, showing just a blush of pink when sliced. But the service is less than attentive. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 742-3872. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11.Closed Sun. Reservations for dinner only. All creditcards. $$$) 6.0
KNOX/HENDERSON
D Atlantic Café. (Seafood) With its etched glass and elegant stone floors, this seafood restaurant has a chic air and a glamorous clientele. You may well have a wait, but you will also have some marvelous food. Among the first courses, the ceviche of shrimp and scallops is the standout, and the baked oysters and the exquisite tomato and fresh mozzarella salad are memorable. Our salmon steak was perfectly broiled, with a crunchy exterior and a juicy interior, and our sautéed scallops were delightfully sauced. The angel-hair pasta with seafood was a pleasant change of pace for those not in the mood for fish by itself, and there is an ample selection of veal and beef offerings,too. (4546 McKinney at Knox. 559-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri & Sun 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$$) 8.0
The Beefeater. (Steaks) This place has been aroundunder one guise or another for a long time, and timeseems to stand still amid the dark woods and oil paintings. The service can be so leisurely as to stand still, too,but it is wonderfully hospitable, and the Beefeater’srelaxed atmosphere is delightful after the hustle andbustle of chain steakhouses. Red meat and potatoesare handled with great skill. Sirloin, tenderloin, primerib, huge lamb chops and baby back ribs all satisfy thecarnivorous spirit, and the baked, au gratin and hash-brown potatoes are admirable accompaniments. Everything else is pretty much a throwaway, but thatdoesn’t keep the Beefeater from being a rewardingplace to eat. (3010 N Henderson at Central Expwy. 826-2553. Mon-Thur 6-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11:30 pm.Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$$) 5.0
Bohemia. (Czechoslovakian) A little corner of the old country is hidden behind the unprepossessing exterior of this place. Airy lace and perpetual Mozart set the tone here, and the food can be first-rate. We especially enjoyed the rich liver pate as an appetizer, and the strudel is the real thing. But the main dishes show that the food is basically sturdy, Czech-style home cooking rather than anything more elaborate. The sauces on the sauerbraten and the pork roast are excellent, but the meats themselves are sliced coarsely and thereby lose appeal. But is there any other place in Dallas where you can order Tokay, the Hungarian dessert wine, by the glass? (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-10 pm. Frig, Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$) 6.0
Chip’s. (Burgers) What a great hangout! Chip’s has all the ingredients, iced-down longnecks in an old-fashioned cooler near the door, a barrel of peanuts for munching, neon beer signs on the wall and a TV. Of course, there are also some great burgers, with one-third pound of beef, sliced onions, pickles, tomatoes and assorted condiments and sauces-all on a grilledpoppy-seed bun. A shish kebab, a steak or chickensandwich, a Coney dog or a taco salad are also listedon the chalkboard menu, and the tasty fries are especially good. (4501 N Central Expwy. 526-1092. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11.No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 5.0
REVISITS
Da Piccolo. (Italian) This narrow, slightly unkempt Italian bistro is now open for lunch. At noon, the fried calamari, which had always been one of our dinner favorites here, turned out to be underdone and chewy. The tortellini, stuffed with a sage-flavored filling and served in a tomato sauce with flecks of basil, had been cooked too long and were slightly gummy. The lasagna tasted of fresh tomato (but of little else), and the veal Marsala suffered from a harsh and overly glutinous sauce. At our luncheon, Da Piccolo didn’t live up to its reputation as one of the better Italian places in town. (4537 Cole. 521-1191. Lunch: Mon & Wed-Fri 11-2; dinner: Wed-Mon 5:30-11. Closed Tue. All creditcards. $$) 5.0
D Exposure. (Continental) The proprietors here will give you a friendly welcome even if you aren’t among the beautiful people who make up the regular clientele. Chef Bruce Auden’s food is wonderful-he recently added duck to the nightly menu – and can be had most reasonably on the special pre-theater prix fixe dinner or on the late-night breakfasts. The prix fixe meal includes marvelously original soups, zesty salads, almost- any main course on the menu. dessert and coffee. But to get one of Auden’s innovative appetizers, you have to order a la carte. (4516 McKinney. 528-0210. Lunch: Fri noon-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. Bar hours: Mon-Fri 4 pm-2 am, Sat 5 pm-2 am. Closed Sun Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$) 8.5
Highland Park Cafeteria. (Southern) Everybody inDallas knows about the great home-style cooking atHighland Park Cafeteria, but not everyone has heardabout the lavish buffet sometimes offered upstairs. Weused to think of it as a clever and sybaritic way of avoiding the crowded lines in the regular cafeteria- but theprice ($9 for adults, $4 for children) means that you can’tquite take the alternative lightly. Go when you’re reallyhungry and can eat a mountain of the salads, friedchicken, brisket, fresh broccoli and squash casserole,rolls and the always-tempting desserts- meringue, apple and rhubarb pies, multilayered cakes and the like.We stuck to one dessert apiece and thought ourselvesimpossibly virtuous. (4611 Cole. 526-3801. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sun. No liquor. No credit cards. $)See Addison/Richardson/Far North Dallas. 6.0
Hoffbrau. (Steak) If what you want is a thick, juicy slab of beef without a lot of unnecessary frills, head for Hoffbrau You won’t find any pseudo-English pub atmosphere here; the decor can only be loosely described as “fun Texas funk.” And there’s not a lot of choice about what will accompany your steak (a salad and potatoes come with each entree; only one salad dressing is offered, and the chunky potato slices are pan-fried), butit doesn’t really matter. Everything we tried was good,especially the steaks. The service was efficient, andgold stars must be given to the busboys in particular:Friendly and sharp-eyed, they were poetry in motion.A hint: Go early to escape the inevitable wait. (3205 Knox. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm. Sunnoon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Javier’s. (Mexican/Continental) Billing itself as a “gourmet Mexicano” restaurant, Javier’s serves fare that comes under the one hyphenated abbreviation we don’t hear very often in Dallas: Mex-Mex (or Mexican food a la Mexico City). The unfancy decor of stone, dark wood and plants is shown up by the downright exotic selection of mostly beef and seafood dishes prepared with pungent marinades and topped with, for example, black pepper sauce or garlic sauce We enjoyed the filete cantinflas, a beef tenderloin stuffed with Monterey Jack cheese and seasoned butter and topped with achile mulato sauce and sliced avocado The polio alajillo (chicken sautéed in garlic sauce) was a bit dry butwell-flavored, and the bean and cheese nachos, madewith black beans, were some of the best we’ve tried. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm, Sun 5:30-10 pm. Reservations. Allcredit cards. $$) 5.5
Knox Street Oyster Garage. (Seafood) Under the same ownership as (and sharing a kitchen with) Hoff-brau, Knox Street Oyster Garage goes for a sleeker crowd. But the food disappoints. The peel em-yourself shrimp have little taste other than salt and can be chewy to the point of toughness. The kitchen fries only shellfish-shrimp, scallops and oysters-but only the oysters have much interest. Of the house specialties, the waitress told us that the scallops with fresh mint were the best. We hope she was wrong, because they were tough and fishy, and the sauce (composed of lots of fresh mint, tomatoes and onions) had an unpleasanttaste. (3201 Knox. 522-0842. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-midnight. Sat noon-1 am, Sun noon-11 pm. Allcredit cards. $$) 4.0
On the Border. (Mexican) On the weekends, it seemsas though everyone in town is trying to crowd into this”South Texas Café,” as it bills itself And no wonder,since this place may serve the best fajitas around. Thesizzling strips of beef (or chicken, if you prefer) aremeaty, tender and not overly marinated, as they sometimes are elsewhere. The grilled whole chicken breastscome from the kitchen golden from the smoke And thepraline cheesecake makes a sweet ending. (3300 Knox. 528-5900. Mon-Thur & Sun 11 am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 am-1 am. All credit cards. $$) See Las Col-inas/Mid-Cities. 5.5
Tolbert’s Texas Chill Parlor. (Texana) Frank Tolbert may be gone, but his legacy lives on at his chili parlor. There should be consolation enough in this Elysium of Texas Red-the chili is still tasty, and the burgers areoutstanding, too. The one problem we found in thisparadise was with the chicken-fried steak. It was the realthing, all right – a single piece of meat rather than someprefabricated substitute. But the crust didn’t hold ontoit very well, and the gravy was unremarkable. Thecrunchy fries, large drinks and our sweetheart of a waitress just about made up for it. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-midmght. Sunnoon -11 pm. MC, V, AE. $) 5.0
MARKET CENTER
Aw Shucks. (Seafood) See Lower Greenville. (4535 Maple, 522-4498. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:45 pm. Sun noon-9 pm. No credit cards. $) 6.0
The Bay Tree. (Continental) The Wyndham Hotel recently changed management teams and put a new chef in its petite dining room -to the improvement of the food, if not the overbearing service. Previously, the cooking was satisfactory, but now several of the dishes are much better. It somelimes seems that every restaurant in town has a sautéed shrimp appetizer, but the one at the Bay Tree is a marvel. Intense heat has given the crustaceans a lovely reddish-brown crust, and the buttery wine sauce tickles the tongue. The noisettes of lamb are sauced superbly, too, although they have hardly a trace of the fresh rosemary mentioned on the. menu. There are still some rather pedestrian things here, such as the asparagus soup and the sautéed snapper with a pistachio breading, but the comparatively moderate prices and the improved food make the Bay Tree worth considering even if you’re not staying at the Wyndham. (The Wyndham Hotel, 2222 Stemmons Frwy. 631-2222 Daily 6-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5
Café Italia. (Italian) This is strictly an unpretentious storefront operation, although there are some nice decorative touches in the apricot-colored tablecloths and the airy white metal chairs. The menu mainly offers Northern Italian dishes, and they are priced at the lowend of the local scale for this sort of thing, especially atdinner (when prices are about the same as they are atlunch). Although the kitchen doesn’t make its ownpasta, it cooks its noodle dishes so well that we thinkthey are the best bets. The linguini pescatore. flavoredwith shrimp, clams and scallops-and plenty of garlic – is among the tastiest of such in town. The veal andchicken dishes are good without knocking your socksoff. (5000 Maple. 521-0700. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. MC, V. AE. $$) 4.5
D REVISITS
Escondldo. (Tex-Mex) The name means “hidden away,” and this little Mexican place could easily be overlooked. It’s rather bedraggled on the outside, but nicer within. Whether it’s worth searching out if you re not in the Parkland Hospital neighborhooddepends on how much you appreciate a good value – the Tex- Mex is dependable and offers a lot forthe price. Don’t stray too far from the standarddishes, though; we thought mushroom enchiladassounded intriguing and ordered them only to findthat they were plain old cheese enchiladas servedin what seemed to be canned mushroom soup.(2210 Butler. 631-9912 Lunch: daily 11-2; dinner:daily 5-9. No credit cards. $) 4.0
Gonzalez. (Tex-Mex) For a fried-chicken stop gone Tex-Mex, Gonzalez does a reliable job. though never an outstanding one. Both in atmosphere and in spice, the word is bland. The nachos we tried were nothing but store-bought tortilla chips with cheese and scant peppers, and they arrived at the same time as our entrees. And the margarita we ordered was too sweet tofinish. But the meal was quick, and the place was cleanWe prefer a mediocre chile relleno to the unknownchicken any day, (4333 Maple. 528-2960. Daily 7 am-9 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Mistral. (French/Japanese) In this disco/restaurant, a huge screen displays Duran Duran videos, and neon abounds (we counted seven shades of red and blue in the ceiling decoration alone) How many $45 per person prix fixe dinners have you eaten while seated on plastic-upholstered banquettes, looking at statues of swans lighted by rose-colored spotlights and being served by a hunk dressed New Wave-style with a single diamond stud piercing his left ear? The food is excellentwithout being extraordinary. It’s rather far-out nouvellewith even more Asian influences than usual in the style(the chef was born in Japan and trained in Europe -he once cooked at Buckingham Palace). We found theservice, though earnest, to be a trifle gauche. (Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 760-9000. Tue-Sat 7-11:30 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. All credit cards. $$$$) 6.5
Nana Grill. (American Nouvelle) The most beautiful view of the city may be from this spacious restaurant atop the new addition to the Loews Anatole Hotel. The food is the “New Southwestern Cuisine” – which in this case means that all meats and fish are grilled over mes-quite and are accompanied by sauces that include lots of cilantro, peppers and spices. The grilling is expert, leaving the basic foodstuffs juicy and tender. Sidedishes can be interesting or just plain odd, and thedesserts seem to have improved enormously since theplace opened, (Loews Analole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy 748-1200. Lunch; Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: daily 6-10:30, Reservations recommended for dinner. Allcredit cards. $$$) 6.0
Plum Blossom. (Chinese) The simplicity of the surroundings here bespeaks elegance, and the careful service contributes to the peaceful atmosphere as well. The menu offers a choice among elaborate set dinners that range from $20 to $27,50 (with a smattering of a la carte offerings). We splurged on the most expensive and were served delicious scallops in a potato nest, a Chrysanthemum Firepot (a tureen of rich broth in which all kinds of meat and vegetables cook), Peking duckand other treasures. The meal was satisfying, except forthe chicken and banana roll in a sweet-and-sour sauce(which tasted as unappetizing as it sounds) and thelychee sherbet. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun, Reservations required. Jackets required. All creditcards. $$$) 6.5
Ray’s Blue Note. (American Nouvelle) This place now serves Texas nouvelle cuisine, and the new menu concentrates on mesquite-grilled red meats and a bit of seafood. Everything is served with fantastic attention to visual detail, with garnishes such as flowers or baskets carved out of tomatoes and flavorful relishes made of sweet and hot peppers. The steak and the pork chop were delicious with their crusty, seared surfaces. The sausages (which include some venison) are both robust and excellent. The apricot-and-apple is actually sweeter than either of the dessert specialties: an odd, grainy rice pudding and a weird serving of vanilla ice cream with “spiced” fresh fruit-“spiced” in this instance meaning peppery-hot. The neighborhood is run-down enough todiscourage some diners. (5490 Demon Cutoff. 631-6199. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. All creditcards. $$$) 4.5
Rosita’s. (Tex-Mex) Rosita’s sits on the edge of the Maple Avenue Hispanic district, both geographically and metaphorically. The neighborhood patrons and the North Dallas tourists, with a full spectrum of Dallasites in between, make up a thoroughly eclectic crowd. This restaurant’s universal appeal comes from its longstanding success at producing simple, well-prepared Tex-Mex standards, served by an efficient and courteous staff for a reasonable price. The atmosphere is that of a south-of-the-border bar in a Grade-B Western, and pictures of such infamous outlaws as Pancho Villa, Geronimo and Willie Nelson make you feel obliged toorder a bottle of mescal (or something equally revolutionary) from the fully stocked cantina. This is a greatplace for Texans to get their weekly taco/enchilada fix.(4906 Maple. 521-4741. Mon-Fri 7 am-10 pm. Sat & Sun 9 am-10 pm. MC,V.AE. $) 5.0
Siam Orchid. (Thai) Under its new management andname, this place continues to turn out excellent Thaifood. We don’t seem to be able to eat here withoutordering our old favorites- pork sate, spring rolls andthe intriguing noodle dish called pud Thai-but thereare plenty of dishes on the menu to reward a bit of exploration. The beef with lime leaves in a spicy sauce, forinstance, offers a truly novel flavor for the adventurous.And you have to feel adventurous even to venture intoSiam Orchid, which is situated among adult bookstoresand theaters. Inside, however, the polite staff makeseveryone feel comfortable. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-6505. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm. Sat & Sun noon-10:30 pm. Ail credit cards. $$) 6.0
Sonny Bryan’s. (Barbecue) Lordy, can these folkscook barbecue! The brisket is tender and juicy, with acrisp crust that is the essence of wood smoke; the ribsare perfection. It’s of little consequence, we suppose,that the side dishes are nothing to speak of and that thehubbub and housekeeping are insufferable. If suchthings really bother you, you can do as many others doand order to go. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 8 am-5 pm, Sat 8 am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $) 6.5
OAK CLIFF/DUNCANVILLE
Hondo’s. (Texana) Although the sign on top of the restaurant says “Real Texas Burgers,” the boasting at Hondo’s is about its chicken-fried steak, which it claims is the best anywhere. Unfortunately, this Texas-sized boastfalls short of the mark. The meat was tender, but the batter was bland; the gravy, tasteless. The steak was morelike what you’d find in a TV dinner than anything evenremotely resembling homemade. But the surroundingsare typically Texan, with old bottles, rusty horseshoesand weathered lumber creating a thoroughly rusticlook. It’s too bad the food wasn’t as authentic. (Wheat-land Plaza, 450 E Wheatland, Duncanville. 298-0873.Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3, Sat 11-4; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-8. Fri 5-9. Sat 5-8:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $) 4.0
La Calle Doce. (Mexican) This comfortable Oak Cliff restaurant serves excellent Tex-Mex food as well as a wide range of more authentic specialties. We’ve had the best luck when we’ve ordered the beef dishes. The car-nitas tampiquenas. though uncharacteristically cooked with soy sauce, are delicious, as is the stewlike guiso. The accompanying beans, rice and flour tortillas are memorable, too. Our only real disappointment was a slightly fishy-tasting snapper veracruzana. (415 12th St. 941-4304. Mon-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri 11 am-10:30 pm, Sat 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sun 11:30 am-8:30 pm.MC, V. AE, DC. $$) 5.5
Longhorn Bar-B-Q. (Barbecue) This far South Dallasrestaurant may be lacking in atmosphere, but it servesoutstanding beef, sausage and ribs with all the usualside dishes. The beef sandwiches have plenty of lean,tender, tasty meat on fresh grilled buns. The french friesand baked potatoes are good, too. and the cafeteria-style service is fast and courteous. (315 S Hwy 67,Cedar Hill. 299-5092. Mon-Sat 11 am-8:30 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $) 4.0
PARK CITIES/LOVERS LANE
D Au Bon Gout. (French) We’ve been listing this enterprise as a gourmet carryout business for several months, but now it has become one of the premier places to eat in Dallas as well. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, chef Christian Gerber prepares whatever he feels like cooking for nomore than 30 people. The $35 prix fixe is worth everypenny and more: The food is perfection. (4424 Lovers Lane. 369-3526. Tue & Wed 11 am-6 pm, Thur-Sat 11am-6 pm & 7-10 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. All credit cards; personal checks accepted. Lunch $$.dinner $$$$) 8.5
Belvedere. (Austrian) If we mention that Belvedere (under the same ownership as the Chimney) is on the second floor of an apartment house, you’ll probably get a false impression. Actually, the restaurant is airy, elegant and undauntedly cheerful, with lovely appointments and very helpful service. The food is pleasing without being exciting. Veal is the specialty, but the portion we were served was not quite tender and tasted a bit overfloured. The scallops in mustard sauce were much more satisfactory. (4242 Lomo Alto in Crestpark Hotel. 528-6510. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
Bubba’s. (Southern) Is this the Park Cities riposte to fast foods? Or an art deco diner? Whichever. Bubba’s serves some of the best fried chicken and hot rolls anywhere. The other down-home dishes are not quite as memorable, but they’re still good. Not only does Bub-ba’s offer chicken-fried steak and chicken and dumplings, but you can also find vegetables such as black-eyed peas, corn and green beans, plus a slaw with a touch of garlic. You’ll certainly never feel trendier at a place where you carry your own food on a tray. (6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527. Daily 6:30 am-3 pm & 4-10 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 5.5
D REVISITS
Café Cancun. (Mexican) This Mexico City-style restaurant, it’s fair to say, has become part of the old guard. Those of us who eat out often know Cancun. We remember fondly the black beans and tangy molé. But as do all favorite restaurants, Cancun reached a degree of success that demanded a decision – expand or be content – so it expanded to a four-link chain, while the above-mentioned staples remain very fine, some of the polish and all-around quality has faded. We upset our waiter by ordering a non-lunch special for lunch, and we were disappointed by tough beef and a wickedly imbalanced margarita. (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm. MC, V. AE. $$) See Downtown/West End, Upper Greenville/North Central, Las Colinas/Mid-Cities. 5.5
Casa Rosa. (Mexican) If you come here when the crowds are lining up outside to get in, you may think that Casa Rosa is slow to serve you because of all the business. Rest assured that it’s just as slow at off hours. The food is obviously carefully cooked: The tamales taste homemade, and the enchiladas are rolled to order. But it all seems a little too prim for the robust pleasures of Tex-Mex. And we don’t think chicken fajitas should come with melted cheese on top. Probably the best dish here, the biftec con camarones-a thin steak nicely grilled with a few big shrimp on top and a cup of black beans on the side -seems to fit the preppy atmosphere better than the more typical Mexican food. (Inwood at Lovers Lane, Suite 165. 350-5227. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-2 pm & 5-10 pm, Fri 11:30 am-2 pm & 5-11 pm. Sat 11:30 am-11 pm,Sun noon-10 pm.) 4.5
D REVISITS
D Café Pacific. (Seafood) On our most recent visit here, we found perfect seafood: huge shrimp with a remoulade sauce that needed only a bit more spice to be authentically New Orleans; light, crisp fried calamari; and Seafood Pacific, a bounteous mixture of lobster, crab meat, scallops and fish in a delicate cream sauce. An intriguing special was the broiled yellowfin tuna served with a cream teriyaki sauce (which tasted much better than it sounds.) The service wascharming and efficient, and the prices were lessthan at some comparable places. Be sure to makereservations well in advance and to come on time-tables are held only 15 minutes. (Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 24. 526-1170. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sat & Sun11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$$) 8.5
Ewald’s. (Continental) Time hasn’t diminished this place’s popularity. How many restaurants of a certain age are full even on a Monday evening? Maybe the patrons come here to be reassured; there’s nothing trendy about Ewald’s, and it’s highly dependable. The specialties are veal and beef, cooked authoritatively and smothered in heavy sauces. The accompaniments can be rather odd: bananas stuffed with raisins and a bit of curry, parsley Tried to an appetizing crisp, cannedhearts of palm instead of artichoke bottoms atop a vealsteak, (5415 W Lovers Lane. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10:30 pm, Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$) 7.0
II Sorrento. (Traditional Italian) With its showy, intricatere-creation of an Italian piazza, II Sorrento has longbeen a favorite Dallas dining spot. Even on a weeknightthere can be crowds, and since the restaurant doesn’ttake reservations on weekends, there’s almost alwaysa wait. While the food isn’t sensational, it’s easy to seethe appeal. The menu is huge, with house specialtiessuch as shrimp Diane (in a buttery sauce flecked withscallions) and veal zingara (meaning “gypsy-style”) withham and mushrooms. The best part of our last mealhere was the desserts: a rum cake with cream andorange rind and a dense, bittersweet chocolatemousse. (8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Sun-Thur 5:30-11:30 pm, Fri 5:30-11 pm. Sat 5:30 pm-midnight.All credit cards. $$$) 5.0
La Tosca. (Northern Italian) Why can’t everything here be as good as the best things? We had an ethereal appetizer of steamed mussels on our last visit, followed by overcooked and underseasoned paglio e fieno (greenand white pasta in a sauce touched with tomato andcream). Our main dishes of veal and shrimp were unexciting. Still, this may well be Dallas’ best Italian restaurant by default. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Tue-Sun 6-10:30 pm. Reservations Tue-Thur & Sun only. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$) 7.0
Le Panier. (Eclectic) At lunch, this place serves sandwiches and other light meals and calls itself the Lunch Basket. In the evening, it becomes a bit more formal, ups the prices (though they’re still reasonable) and becomes Le Panier. The cozy atmosphere provides a pleasant environment in which to sample good recipes from all over. They range from “Oklahoma Burn” -a steak seared to the point of blackness outside but perfectly cooked within -to a Central European duck with blackberry sauce. The staff is efficient and knowledgeable, although the servers don’t seem to smile much. (3404 Rankin. 369-3241. The Lunch Basket: Mon-Sat 11 am-3 pm; Le Panier: Tue-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations for evenings only. MC, V,DC, CB. $$) 6.0
Mirabelle. (Gourmet Carryout) Located in the heart of Highland Park Village, this gourmet takeout shop is a feast lor the eye-and the palate. Pinky-peach walls and wicker baskets laden with croissants and imported jams soften the high-tech look of chrome counters, and just looking at the neat rows of boxed biscuits, tins and full wine racks is a delicious experience. But don’t stop there: A world of freshly prepared delights awaits you. Offerings change periodically: On our last visit, we sampled salmon mousse; a heavenly chicken salad; crisp, delicately spiced carrots and zucchini; a pasta salad and a chunky potato salad. (Save room for desserts-the goodies are out of this world.) Given the quality of the food, Mirabelle’s prices are very reasonable. (Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 73-74. 528-7589. Tue-Sat 10:30 am-7 pm, Sun & Mon noon-6 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 7.0
Pat’s Sandwich Delicatessen. (Deli) This cheerful deli is usually packed with shoppers at lunchtime. Pat’s is probably best known for its incomparable roast beetsandwiches: paper-thin slices of flavorful, deep pinkbeef served on a buttered Kaiser roll. But Pat’s alsoserves one of the best corned beef sandwiches outsideNew York City, as well as hearty Irish stew and creamycheesecake. (Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 31. 526-5353. Mon-Thur 8-8, Fri & Sat 8 am-7 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $) See Ad-dison/Richardson/Far North Dallas. 5.0
Peggy’s Beef Bar. (Barbecue) The most surprisingthing about Peggy’s is the funky, old-time-barbecue-joint atmosphere in the middle of the Park Cities,although the ladies behind the counter are too refinedto remind you of the people who used to work in suchplaces. The barbecue is good, if unremarkable, and theportions are not overwhelmingly large. The best of theaccompaniments are the onion rings. (6600 Snider Plaza. 368-9422. Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm, Sat 10 am-4 pm.Closed Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 4.5
The Rib. (Barbecue) This place is rather a paradox,with courtly waiters in tuxes attending tables covered with oilcloths. Oh well, barbecue was never meant to beelegant. Relax with the appetizer of grilled sausage,then dive into short, sweet pieces of the ribs for whichthe place is named. Don’t overlook the barbecuedshrimp, which are juicy and taste of real smoke. Pricesare rather high here-especially if you take the all-you-can-eat option-but the portions are huge. (5741 WLovers Lane. 357-8139. Daily 5-10 pm. Carryout available daily 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
D REVISITS
The Ribshack. (Barbecue) This admirable establishment has yet another new outpost, this time in North Richardson. Like its predecessors, it offers an interesting range of indigenous Texas foods. Those who come expecting traditional Texas barbecue, however, will be disappointed. The sugar-cured, smoke-cooked ribs (beef or pork) are drier and less crusty than regulation barbecue, and the smoked beef is like very lean roast beef. We prefer the juicier smoked chicken and the three kinds of chili, not tomention the delicious side dishes. (4615 W LoversLane. 351-3400. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11 am-9 pm. No credit cards; personalchecks accepted. $$) See White Rock, Ad-dison/Richardson/Far North Dallas. 6.0
The Riviera. (French Provencal) The Riviera, as its name hints, largely concentrates its offerings on the specialties of the south of France- a region known for its flamboyant use of herbs, tomatoes and garlic. A number of the famous specialties of that part of the world show up on the menu. The modestly named lobster stew is a version of its fabled fish soups and includes lotte (a firm-textured fish), scallops and mussels, along with a bounteous portion of lobster. A bowl of rouille (a garlicky light mayonnaise) is served on the side. The veal chop, too, has the heady perfume ofProvence; the big, meaty chop is topped with rosemarybutter and a sprig of fresh rosemary. One accompanying vegetable dish is zucchini with peppers and onions(a ratatouille without the eggplant), cooked better thanit is anywhere else in town. The hardwood floors and thewarm, not-too-formal decor make you feel you are truly in an elegant country inn. (7709 Inwood 351-0094. Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$$) 7.0
Szechuan Pavilion. (Chinese) Some restaurants soar and flame like comets, then are gone. And some, like this one, continue with quiet, reliable excellence through the years. All of our entrees, especially the masterfully prepared Prime Minister’s Chicken, were fresh and subtly layered with delicate, unexpected tastes.Chicken and shrimp with cashew nuts (with bambooshoots, baby corn and mushrooms to supplement thecrunchy nuts) ran a close second, and we especiallyrecommend the hearty egg drop soup. But the egg rollshad a leathery crust – a minor and, we hope, temporaryfailing. (8409 Preston. 368-4303. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 4:30-10 pm: Fri 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 4:30-10:30 pm. Sat noon-10:30 pm, Sunnoon-10 pm.MC, V. AE. DC. $$) 5.5
LOWER GREENVILLE/EAST DALLAS
D REVISITS
Aw Shucks. (Seafood) While we were slightly shell-shocked at the diminutive oysters (on the eighth-shell?), our feathers were smoothed and our palates delighted by the rich Louisiana gumbo, the crunchy fried scallops and cups of ice-cold Deer.(3601 Greenville. 821-9449. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:45 pm, Sun noon-10 pm.No credit cards. $) See Market Center. 6.0
Campisi’s. (Italian) The legend of this dimly lit Mockingbird landmark is one of the first ones that a Dallas newcomer hears. It is the story of hot, floury-crusted, four-star pizza loaded with ingredients and cut into rectangular slices. But save for an occasional delicious artichoke heart, we’ve found it wise to stick to enjoyingCampisi’s pizza and reputation – the rest of the menuwould best be forgotten. The lasagna tasted cannedand. like the veal, was drenched in a nasty all-purposesauce. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355. 827-7711. Mon-Thur 11 am-midmght, Fri 11 am-2:30 am, Sat 11am-1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations for six ormore. No credit cards, personal checks accepted.$$) 4.5
Chickeria. (Texana) Inside this small, spare diner with its turquoise tables and chairs, you’ll find a variety of down-home selections as well as a few Tex-Mex items.Chickeria’s specialty is barbecued chicken grilled overa mesquite fire, and it’s just what it’s supposed to be:juicy inside and smoky outside. Other choices from thegrill include ribs and shrimp, and all are offered withtasty homemade vegetables such as corn on the cob,baked beans and mashed potatoes (mashed with theskin on). If home-style cooking doesn’t suit your tastebuds, try the fajitas (served on a flour tortilla with someexcellent guacamole on the side) or the deliciouschicken tacos. (601 N Haskell 821-9072. Daily 11 am-10 pm. AE, DC. $) 6.5
DiPalma’s. (Italian) It’s a delicatessen! It’s a wine bar! It’s a bakery! No. it’s a super Italian restaurant- or rather, it’s all of the above, and it’s wonderful. The imported food, the Italian wines (including a marvelous selection by the glass) and the pastries will all knock your eyes out even before you get your dinner The an-tipasti salads are mouthwatering, but the pasta is even better: homemade, cooked perfectly al dente and anointed with subtle sauces of cream, wild mushrooms or sun-dried tomatoes. The main dishes aren’t foolproof (the roast chicken can be a tad dry. with skin that’s less than perfectly crisp), but they can include such delicious offerings as a skewer of broiled shark andshrimp that’s moist and meaty. (1520 Greenville. 824-4500. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11.Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$) 7.0
El Galllto. (Mexican) El Gallito is not the old-line Mexican place it seems to be. The menu indulges in thefashionable dishes of the day-fajitas are the leadingitem – and we can’t recollect any other Mexican restaurant at which you cannot even buy an enchilada. Thegrilled steak and the chicken breast basted with garlicbutter are both extremely well prepared-fresh, smoky-tasting and tender. The guacamole is unequivocally ourfavorite version in Dallas; it’s properly thinned out andacidified by plenty of tomato and onion. The gringosandwiches, such as hamburgers and grilled chicken,are well worth sampling. (4202 Ross. 826-6681. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-3 am, Sun 4-10 pm.AE.$$) 4.5
Genaro’s Tropical. (Mexican) The magical ambiance here is out of a Thirties movie, and the swordfish kebab is to die for. But a lot of the other dishes, including themuch-touted ones based on seafood, can be pretty ordinary. The crab meat enchiladas, for instance, aremerely fishy. And why won’t these folks put up a signoutside? You could drive up and down for an hour andstill not find this place -it occupies the corner whereSkillman dead-ends at Live Oak. (5815 Live Oak at Skill-man. 827-9590. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm; Fri-Sun 11 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$) 6.0
The Grape. (Continental) We’re ever loyal to The Grape. The hot, soft bread, classical music, interesting wines by the glass and the best mushroom soup in town are enough to keep us true. But we’re also impressed with the grace and imagination evident in other items served here. Veal topped with toasted peanuts and brown sauce showed confidence and flair on the part of the chef; a generous slice of duck paté was a complicated master blend of seasonings. Even The Grape’s amaretto cheesecake was lighter and more enjoyable than the heavy slabs we’re accustomed to finding elsewhere. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11. Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnght. MC. V, AE, DC. $$) 6.0
D L’Ancestral. (Country French) We’re temptedto say that L’Ancestral presents home cooking,French style. The veal roast with onions is simple and unpretentious and comes with fried potatoesthat any Texan would recognize and admire. And fordessert, the clafoutis is for all the world like a bread pudding studded with cherries. But we don’t know manyhomes where you could get such feather-light creationsas the quenelles of red snapper or the Floating Islandwith a sauce of cassis and crème anglaise. (5631 Alta. 826-0006 Tue-Sun 6:30 pm-1 am. Closed Mon. Allcredit cards. $$$) 7.5
La Pagode. (French/Vietnamese) Situated on the border of Deep Ellum, this restaurant hasn’t drawn the crowds it deserves. The standard Oriental dishes are fresher than usual here, and the French influence offers a surprising selection of entrees and soups, as well asa more European than Vietnamese decor. Banh Xeo,La Pagode’s special crepe, is filled with a choice ofchicken, pork or shrimp and bean sprouts. For dessert,choose lechees on ice. beans with coconut milk or, ifyou prefer, a more familiar French pastry. (4302 Bryan. 821-4542. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun 9-9. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$) 5.0
Little Gus’. (Greek/Eclectic) By now, most of us knowthat Little Gus’ is really two restaurants: hamburgerheaven at noon, Greek delight at night. Somehow, theGreek cuisine here just keeps getting better, and thateven goes for the dolmas, which are always heavy withherbs and seasonings and are large enough to serveas a meal. Moussaka, the Greek standard, is cookedbetter here than anywhere in the city; with layers ofeggplant and ground beef in cream sauce, the dishavoids the cloying sweetness found elsewhere. Wine,candlelight and Greek music top off a pleasant evening.(1916 Greenville. 826-4910. Mon-Thur 7:30 am-4 pm & 6-9 pm, Fri & Sat 7:30 am-4 pm & 6-10 pm. Sun 9 am-1.45 pm. No credit cards, personal checks accepted. $$) 5.0
The New Big Wong. (Chinese) Let’s not belabor theobvious. If you’re looking for pleasant, quick service;cheap, hefty lunches; a voluminous dinner menu thatboth challenges and delights; crunchy, colorful vegetables, interesting decor; tanks full of eels and turtles(talk about fresh), and baffling music that changes daily,you’ll find it here. (2121 S Greenville. 821-4199. Daily 11am-4 am MC, V. AE. $$) 5.0
Panteli’s. (Greek) This wine bar with mostly Greek foodis a delightful place for an after-theater supper. The appetizer plate is bountiful, with dolmas and lots ofvegetables and hunks of cheese. The skewered lambis exceptional-tender and full of flavor. The peoplewho work here are exceptionally nice, too; they won’trush you even if you’re the last ones in the place. (1928 Greenville. 823-8711. Mon- Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun 4:30-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.5
Pietro’s. (Southern Italian) For an unpretentious Italiandinner at unpretentious prices, you can’t improve onPietro’s. The basic pastas are reliable, and the salad iscrisp and nicely enhanced by green peppers. The specials are usually pleasant, and the garlic bread is sotemptingly loaded with butter, garlic and parsley that it’shard to stick to just one big slice of it. Although it’s notplaying in the super sweepstakes of some of the newer,higher-flying Italian restaurants in town, this family-run,neighborhood establishment is still a favorite of manywho have frequented it for years. (5722 Richmond. 824-9403. Tue-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm.MC, V. $$) 5.5
The Prospect Grill. (Eclectic) We wanted to thoroughly enjoy our time spent in the chic, mellow atmosphere of this Lowest Greenville Avenue restaurant; unfortunately, we found that there are still a few kinks in the operation. Service is generally good, but it tends to be haphazard. And although a fairly limited menu is supposed to be supplemented by a list of daily specials, at least one specialty in each category (appetizer, entree, dessert) was unavailable when we visited very early in the evening. The good news is that the food is extremely well-prepared. If you’re in the mood for something grilled, go for the vegetable brochette or the fresh seafood brochette. The grilled entrees include sirloin burger, chicken breast, fresh shrimp, swordfish or tenderloin steak- all cooked over mesquite wood, which lends a rich, smoky flavor to the meat. Several light salads are offered, as well as homemade french fries (fried with onions and served with a tangy tomato sauce for dipping). A vegetable of the day (generally cooked to a crisp perfection) is also offered with each dish, (2100 Greenville. 828-2131. Daily 11 am-2 am. AE. $$) 5.0
Three Vikings. (Swedish) You probably won’t come here (or the decor, which is basically dark mishmash, but the Scandinavian fare is good, if not memorable, and the family-style service is warm and charming. Particularly good dishes: the marinated cucumber salad,the roast duck with almond sauce and the very tenderlamb chops with wild mushrooms. Also try the housevegetable: potato pancakes, three for 80 cents, (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Mon-Thur 6-10 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Sun 5:30-10 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$) 6.0
UPPER GREENVILLE/NORTH CENTRAL
Café Cancun. (Mexican) See Park Cities/Lovers Lane.(Caruth Plaza. Park Lane at Central Expwy 369-3712.Mon- Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. MC. V. AE. $$) 5.5
The Chimney. (Austrian) Small wonder that the Chimney continues to comfort its clientele-it radiates warmth like the coziest fire in winter. The food has always been prepared according to exacting standards, with veal dishes of every description at the top of the list. On a recent visit, the Veal Forestiére, with luscious dux-elles in a fine brandy cream sauce, was excellent, as was the more plebian but nonetheless tricky Wiener schnitzel. The buenderfleisch (thin, air-cured, beet-redbeef) was tasty and ample enough lor two, but the special Chimney appetizer-a seafood crêpe in a hollan-daise sauce – won hands down. Another fine starter isthe salad with house dressing, which comes with a little mound of delicate fried onions. For dessert, the”Austrian snowball”-vanilla ice cream, almonds andchocolate sauce-is still our favorite. (Willow Creek Shopping Center, 9739 N Central Expwy at Walnut HillLane. 369-6466. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30 Closed Sun. Reservations requested. Allcredit cards. $$$) 6.5
D REVISITS
Arthur’s. (Continental) Once considered one of the premier places in Dallas and still a favorite of the business crowd, Arthur’s (judging from our most recent visit) needs to expend more care in the kitchen if its reputation is to be maintained. There can be no excuse for food of less than first quality at these elevated prices, yet in one meal we encounteredshrimp with an iodine aftertaste, excessively bitterBelgian endive, and even a “prime” steak aged pastprime condition. In the other dishes, the level of thecooking was not such as to make us forget theproblems; the scallops in a cream sauce, for instance, were oddly flavored with orange slices. Andit’s a shame that a restaurant with such a striking (all-American) wine list doesn’t offer better-quality wineby the glass. (Campbell Centre. 8350 N Central Expwy. 361-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Fri 6-11, Sat 6 pm-midnight. All creditcards. $$$) 5.0
Cunze’s. (Southern Italian) This place has the feel of a cozy neighborhood restaurant -even if you don’t happen to live in the area. The pasta here is good, although the accompanying sauces are rather predictable. We especially enjoyed the boneless chicken with mushrooms. One minor gripe: The service is attentive to a fault-in fact, it makes it difficult to carry on a coherentconversation, much less enjoy a meal. (6101 Greenville. 369-5747. Mon-Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$) 4.0
D REVISITS
Bourbon Street Oyster Co. (Seafood) This placedoes remind you of New Orleans in a couple ofways: The street lamps that set off the levels of therestaurant from each other are reminiscent of theLouisiana city, and the relaxed atmosphere reflectsthe way the denizens of the Crescent City like to eattheir seafood But the dishes that try most to copythe famous New Orleans dishes (such as oystersRockefeller and gumbo) don’t taste much like thereal thing. But there is some good seafood here,such as the fried platters and the daily broiledspecials. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 363-2333. Sun-Thur 11:30 arn-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. MC. V.AE. DC. $$) 5.0
Fangti China 1. (Chinese) The two things everybody knows about Fangti China is that it was the first Chinese restaurant in town to stay open until the wee hours (things really start hopping around 2 a.m.) and that it was the first to have a woman chef running the kitchen (there are women out front serving customers very efficiently, too). Otherwise, it’s very typical of the manyChinese places that have opened all over Dallas duringthe last few years. Both the Cantonese and the spicierChinese dishes will satisfy, if not excite. (Twin Bridge Shopping Center, 6752 Shady Brook. 987-3877. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-4 am. Fri 11:30 am-6 am. Sat 5 pm-6 am. Sun 5 pm-4 am. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Fuddrucker’s. (Burgers) See McKinney/Oak Lawn. (1520 NorthPark Center 987-3733. Mon-Sat 11-11.Sun noon-10 pm. MC. V. AE. $) 6.0
Gulf Coast Oyster Co. (Seafood) Oyster lovers might want to think twice before investing in the shellfish here. We rejected several of ours on sight as simply too small and discolored to consider; they were courteously replaced with specimens that were only slightly largerand rather tasteless. Likewise with the shrimp-orshrimpettes. This is a pleasant, airy little cafe, but theportions just won’t do, (8041 Walnut Hill Lane. 361-1922. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. $$) 3.5
Han-Chu. (Chinese) The owners of Taiwan have produced an even more tastefully appointed new Chinese restaurant in Han-Chu. which is sleek in its dimly-lit decor of plum and black. The ham served with jujubes (Chinese dates) and twists of steamed bread on the side is wonderful for those who want a sweet dish to balance the spicier ones, and the chewy beef with crispy noodles, although difficult to manage with chopsticks, is worth the effort. The steamed duck served over a bed of spinach has a wonderful smoky flavor and a smooth and slippery texture quite unlike any other duck dish. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Ex-pwy at Park Lane, Suite 191. 691-0900. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30, Sun 5-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$) 7.0
La Tartine. (French Deli) This place on the eastern (lesspretentious) end of NorthPark Center serves lovelylunches. Soups include French onion and daily specialssuch as spicy, thick tomato. Sandwiches, made with thecrusty French bread that’s baked in-house, range fromroast beef to an informal bread pizza. Most fun of all.you can go to the case beside the cash register to pickout dessert – we tried cheesecake and baba au rhum,but there were fruit tarts and all sorts of other goodies,too. (919 NorthPark Center. 692-8498. Mon-Sat 9:30 am-9 pm. MC, V. AE. $$) See Stemmons/BachmanLake. 5.5
D REVISITS
Le Louvre. (French/Continental) The fine food and attentive service that this elegant restaurant is known for in the evening has been successfully carried over into its new lunchtime effort. From thereasonably priced menu, we chose creamy, delicately flavored spinach soup and lobster bisque.Red snapper sautéed in a tarragon sauce wastasty, but only for tarragon fanatics. The veal pic-cata was very good, though not especially tart andlemony, and the caramel custard dessert was adequate. (The Corner Shopping Center, 9840 N Central Expwy. 691-1177. Mon- Thur 6-11 pm, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midmght. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$) 6.0
Lenotre. (French Sweets) In the high-rent western end of NorthPark Center and in Sakowitz Village in Far North Dallas, Gaston Lenotre, one of France’s most famous pastry chefs, has opened two of his American stores (soon to be followed by several more in Dallas). A meal (at the NorthPark location only) can be rather expensive for what you get and insubstantial; the patés are better bargains taken home by the pound. But in the store or at home, the sweets are heavenly The icecream may be the tastiest in town. We were most takenwith both the very dark and smooth chocolate and therubylike raspberry sorbet. The cakes are ornate andunusual, the pastries, rich beyond imagination. (415 NorthPark Center, 369-4988, Mon-Sat 10 am 6 pm: tearoom closes at 5:30 pm AE. $$) See Addison/Rich-ardson/Far North Dallas. 6.0
Mariano’s. (Mexican) This is neither hole-in-the-wallTex-Mex nor gourmet Mexican, but something all itsown. Enjoy the unpretentious but gracious surroundings, the polished service and the menu that runs thegamut from an unusually well-stuffed chile relleno tosteak Milanesa and pechuga a la parilla (breast ofchicken char-broiled with a delicious mist of garlic butter and cilantro). (Old Town, 5500 Greenville at Lovers Lane 691-3888. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm. Fri-Sun10 30 am-midnight MC V. AE. $$) 5.0
Peking China. (Chinese) This restaurant in the middle of Singlesville in the Park Lane area advertises itself as the first place in town to serve authentic Mandarin cuisine. Actually, the menu and the cooking are hardly distinguishable from a couple dozen other Chinese places in town. But Peking China (in the location that once housed China Sea) is a very creditable and friendly neighborhood restaurant. The Mandarin Beef we sampled had an interesting crinkled texture, with lots of black and red hot peppers and a hint of vinegar in the sauce. The braised shrimp in a gingery sauce were marvelously soft-the texture that the Chinese call “live.” For dessert, we tried the sugar-spun apples-here, they are served authentically, with the coating hardened by a short swim in ice water. (7001 Fair Oaks. 369-2737. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am. MC, V.$$) 5.5
Prego Pasta Home. (Italian) This Greenville Avenue spot owes much of its popularity to its pleasant atmosphere, which is stylish but unpretentious enough that even families with kids feel comfortable. The pizza is of the thin-crust variety. The lasagna is basic-good, filling and inexpensive. Other kinds of pasta are, to our relief, not overcooked. But more elaborate entrees suchas veal Marsala aren’t worth the higher prices. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-mid-night, Sat 5 pm-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. All creditcards. $$) 4.5
Raphael’s. (Mexican) See McKinney/Oak Lawn. (6782 Greenville. 692-8431. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-3 pm & 5:30-10 pm, Fri 11:30 am-3 pm & 5:30-10:30 pm, Satnoon-11 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only.MC, V. AE, CB. $$) 5.5
D Rolfs. (German/Continental) Since it opened a year ago, Rolfs has established itself as a major presence among Dallas restaurants. The tone is formal without being forbidding, and the food is sophisticated and delicate without betraying its hearty German roots. Even a simple dish like consomme with liver dumplings is memorable, not to mention such complex creations as the appetizer of tiny shrimp and scallops marinated with fresh dill and dill seeds and flecked with tiny bits of tomato and mushroom. Few restaurants treat pork as royally as Rolfs, with its rolled roast stuffed with sauerkraut and herbs. The only disappointment on our last visit was the vaunted applestrudel (it was mushy from being reheated and wasdoused with too much sauce), but the ethereal cheesecake more than compensated for it. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy, Suite 117. 696-1933. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$) 8.0
Royal Panda. (Chinese) The name of one of our entrees, Three Delights, set the tone for a delightful meal.That dish -shrimp, scallops and crab meat withchopped vegetables in a white sauce-was almostmatched by the moo shu chicken, with its tangy sauceand Chinese pancakes cut wonderfully thin. Our appetizers, especially the Royal Panda soup, were nicelypresented but lacked significant taste, while the surprisingly large shrimp toast was some of the best we’vehad. (8021 Walnut Hill Lane. 363-3858. Sun-Thur 11 am-4 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-6 am. MC, V, AE, DC.$$) 6.0
D Ruth’s Chris Steak House. (Steak) Still thequeen of Dallas steakhouses, this place packsthe customers in at all hours in the quest for theultimate in meat and potatoes. The huge hunks ofUSDA prime beef, perfectly cooked and drizzled withbutter and parsley, look as though no one could everfinish them, but somehow we polished ours all off withno need for a doggy bag. The prices here are as highas the quality of the beef; the side dishes (all of which -even salad and potatoes-cost extra) are no greatshakes; and the service can seem harried even if well-intentioned. But none of these things will matter tosomeone who insists on the best in steaks. (6940 Greenville. 691-6940. Mon-Fri 11:30-11:30, Sat & Sun 5-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$) 7.5
Sahib. (Indian) This is a warmer, friendlier restaurant than it once was. It was always the most attractive Indian restaurant in town, and now the service adds to the charm instead of detracting from it. The food, although no longer extraordinary, is still very good. The appetizers include pakoras (deep-fried, battered vegetables) and samosas (little pastries filled withpotatoes and other vegetables). Among the maindishes, we liked the chicken tikkha masala, served in arich, tomatoey sauce. Don’t fail to order one of thenumerous varieties of Indian flatbreads here, such asthe many-layered paratha of whole wheat. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11; Sun brunch:11:30-3. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
Sakura. (Japanese) Sakura, the loveliest of Dallas’ Japanese restaurants, offers something for everyone in its multilevel array of dining rooms: tatami mats where traditional meals can be eaten on low tables, a sushi bar with Western-style tables surrounding it, teppan-yaki rooms where (on Friday and Saturday evenings only) samurai chefs wield their knives around big grills. The food can be excellent, as in the shabu shabu, a gently simmered casserole of beef and vegetables in broth that’s prepared tableside, and the crisply broiled salmon teriyaki. Or it can be disappointing, as in thetonkatsu, the Japanese version of fried pork chops. Thefish ottered at the sushi bar is mostly fresh enough to eatas the Japanese prefer (that is, raw), but on our last visit,one of those in the selection we tried tasted as thoughit had been soaked in lemon juice to refresh it. (7402 Greenville. 361-9282 Mon-Thur & Sun 5:30-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-midnight. Reservations recommendedon weekends. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
Sawatdee. (Thai) You can definitely Thai one on at this place, one of Dallas’ most attractive Asian restaurants. The hot dishes are plenty fiery, but otherwise the tastes here seem toned down in comparison to those of Sa-watdee’s competitors. We enjoyed several first-rate novelties on our last visit. The Sawatdee Oyster, for instance, contrasts the crunch of the lacy batter around the oysters with the crunch of bean sprouts, and thePanang Beef is served in a sauce heady with the flavorof lime leaves. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5-10:30. Allcredit cards. $$) 6.5
Taiwan. (Chinese) The eye is always charmed at Taiwan, For example, a whole fish cooked Hunan style may be garnished by a net carved miraculously from a carrot. But the last time we ordered that lovely-looking dish, it didn’t taste as good as it looked: The sauce was bland, and the skin of the fish wasn’t crisp and fresh-tasting. The caring service complements the elegant dining rooms and makes Taiwan one of the most pleasant Chinese restaurants in town, even when the chef is having an off night. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902. Mon-Fri 11 am-3 am, Sat 10 am-3 am, Sun 10 am-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. MC, V. AE. DC. $$) See Addison/Richardson/Far North Dallas. 7.0
Tea Pot Inn. (Chinese) The striking thing about Tea PotInn (aside from its subtle, tasteful decor) is just how wellthe chef executes the old standbys. When was the lasttime you had a perfectly cooked egg roll with a light,crisp shell and a meaty filling that wasn’t mostly stale-tasting cabbage? The chef at the Tea Pot Inn is Cantonese, but unlike a lot of chefs from South China, hereally knows how to cook the spicy Szechuan dishes,too. The shrimp with bean curd is one of the city’s besthot and spicy dishes. If you don’t like spicy food, try thefried dumplings or the Wor Sue Duck. The service isamiable; the prices, exceptionally reasonable. (11343 N Central Expwy. 369-6268. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
WHITE ROCK
Alfonso’s. (Italian) This 2-year-old family-owned restaurant is fun (though dry) and dependable, and familiesare welcome. When we called to see if it would be okayto bring “a very good 7-month-old,” we were told; “Sure,and he doesn’t need to be good – none of them are.”We found good pizza, enormous helpings of cheesylasagna and patiently accommodating service. (328 Casa Linda Plaza, Buckner at Garland. 327-7777.Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-9:30. Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. $$) 4.0
Casa Cavazos. (Mexican) This is a Mexican restaurantwith decor in the tradition of El Fenix. Inside, the pricesare low, and the food can stand up to a trendy hole inthe wall any day of the week. Although it’s not superb,it’s well-equipped to stave off cravings for beans andrice. (5409 Jim Miller Rd. 388-2292. Mon-Sat 11 am-9 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$) 3.5
China Inn. (Chinese) From the road, China Inn doesn’t look any classier than the Keller’s Drive-In or the taco fast-food joint nearby. But step inside this cracker box. You’ll discover that there aren’t any Woolworth-vintage Oriental chandeliers or tacky Chinese plaques adorning the walls. Instead, you’ll find good food in a quiet, pleasant atmosphere. The egg rolls are crisp and tasty; the rice, tender. We were also pleased with our shrimp and sweet-and-sour pork entrees. The service was very attentive, even though we were lulled into thinking that our cola refill wouldn’t show up on the bill.(6521 E Northwest Hwy. 369-7733. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-1 am. MC, V, AE. $) 5.0
Circle Grill. (American/Breakfast) Question: “Wherecan I take my friends from back east to show them whatreal Texas is all about and to feed them breakfast in thetradition of all great Texas truckers, ranchers andbidnessmen?” Answer: the Circle Grill. Have a coupleof juicy fried pork chops, eggs, hashbrowns and light,hot biscuits-or just gravy, biscuits and coffee, if youaren’t so hungry. The waitresses are friendly as can be,and the eavesdropping on the fishermen’s talk is priceless. (440 E 1-30. 226-7745. Daily 5:30 am-11 pm. Nocredit cards: personal checks accepted. $) 5.0
The Ribshack. (Barbecue) See Park Cities/LoversLane. (2221 Abrams. 821-8100. Sun 11 am-9 pm, Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm,Fri & Sat 11-11.No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 6.0
D REVISITS
Hong Kong. (Chinese) On countless treks up and down Garland Road, we noticed the crowded lot in front of this storefront Chinese restaurant. Once inside and well into a heaping plate of moo goo gai pan, we found that the food well deserves praise.Every bite of stir-fried vegetables was fresh andcrisp. Each mushroom and snow pea held itsflavor, apart from the mounds of tender meat andfluffy rice. (9055 Garland Rd. 328-2320. Tue-Fri 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 6-10 pm, Sat & Sun 11:30 am- 10 pm. MC, V. AE. $) 5.5
Shrimper’s Seafood Cafe. (Seafood) Dallas has so many new seafood places of all sorts that there hardly seems room for another, but Shrimper’s seems more than able to hold its own among the less pretentious ones. The oysters on the half shell were small and sweet and very cold; the boiled shrimp, tasty; the shrimp salad, not too gooey. All the fried seafood we sampled was excellent, especially the oysters. The barbecued shrimp wasn’t very close to the way it is fixed in New Orleans, but the smoky sauce with a strong rosemary taste was good enough on its own terms. All the entrées came with a not-too-sweet slaw, and some were servedwith a delicious Florentine rice, richly speckled with bitsof spinach. (4040 Abrams. 827-5955. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. V, AE, DC. $$) 5.0
PRESTON ROYAL
Frenchy Café. (French Deli) The surroundings are very informal in this delicatessen/lunch spot, and the food can be very good. In search of a hot lunch on our last visit, we tried the lasagna and found it rich and slightly sweet. A selection of pates can also make a satisfying meal: The truffle pates are smooth and buttery; the pepper pate, coarser and only a little spicy. If you want to splurge on dessert, the chocolate mousse (flavored with orange and topped with whipped cream and cocoa) is a good bet. But be forewarned: The cost – not to mention the calories-can begin to mount quickly. (5940 Royal Lane. 369-1235. Mon 11 am-3 pm. Tue-Fri 11 am-7 pm, Sat 11 am-5 pm. Closed Sun. MC,V; personal checks accepted. $$) 5.5
Hampton’s Seafood Market. (Seafood) See Downtown/West End. (Preston Royal Shopping Center, Preston at Royal, Suite 113. 696-5400. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards; personalchecks accepted. $) 6.5
Jean Paul. (French) This small Preston Royal restaurant seems to have an older, more loyal crowd than some of the newer and snazzier French places about town. Its owners have chosen (wisely) to invest in good food rather than in plush decor, but some of the dishes were a little too ornate. Escargots in puff pastry were so heavily doused in sauce as to be indistinguishable from mushrooms in puff pastry. The lamb chops topped with bleu cheese were well worth sampling, though too rich to finish. (5934 Royal Lane. 692-9515. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$$) 5.5
Manhattan. (Continental) There’s nothing terribly surprising when you enter Manhattan, located in a NorthDallas strip shopping center. Unlike some other posharea restaurants, the inside has a fairly nondescriptdecor that looks sort of thrown together at the lastminute. But the food, fortunately, is better than the furnishings. The menu is extensive; the veal and shrimpare especially good, and the vegetables seem to befresh and well-cooked. But the desserts, for the mostpart, aren’t worth the effort. (1482 Preston Forest Square, Preston at Forest. 385-8221. Lunch: Mon-Fri & Sun 11 -2:30; dinner: daily 5:30 pm-midnight. All creditcards. $$$) 5.0
Royal China. (Chinese) There was a time when this was one of the fanciest restaurants in Dallas. Now it has settled down into comfortable middle age, with warm service and a relaxed, though enthusiastic, clientele. The food has, if anything, gotten better with the years.Two appetizer platters are offered, and the one withshrimp toast, beef strips and egg rolls on it may be thebest in town-everything is light and fresh-tasting.Several of the best-known dishes here are variations onold favorites. The Golden Crown Pork, for instance, ismoo shi pork with the egg resting on top as a lovely thinomelette (we suggest asking the waiter not to dress theChinese pancakes on which it’s served with beansauce). The Royal Prawns are a lovely version of shrimpin chili sauce; they’re hot, sweet and pungent withginger. (Preston Royal Shopping Center, Preston at Royal, Suite 201. 361-1771. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-10. MC, V, AE. DC. $$) 5.5
STEMMONS/BACHMAN LAKE
Bachman Café. (Seafood) This place advertises itself as a “Louisiana-style seafood restaurant.” It’s promising, although it has some way to go to fulfill that promise. The gumbo had the authentic smoky taste of a long-stirred roux and a peppery bite. The catfish filets on the seafood platter were possibly the best in town, but theother components (except for the excellent homemadefrench fries) were only so-so. (3049 W Northwest Hwy. 351-0959. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: daily 5-9:30; limited menu daily 9:30 pm-1 am. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.5
Bugatti. (Northern Italian) Since we’re the ones who didmuch to trump the old Bugatti, it’s never pleasant tohave to take back our praise. But our last experiencewas definitely a downer. Under the new ownership ofRoss Segal (“Mario has gone back to Spain”), Bugattihas retained the old chef, the menu, the location-theworks- but something is missing. Maybe it’s the frantic pace of the service, or the fact that the fettuccinedella casa comes already heaped with grated cheese.These are surface complaints, it’s true. But worse wasthe fact that the veal was mealy and tough and thegamberoni shrimp so overrun with a cloying sherrycream sauce as to be almost inedible. One standout remains steadfast, though: the cool, cool cappuccino pie.(2574 Walnut Hill Lane. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 4.0
Café Moustache. (Russian/Indonesian) This cafeteria-style lunchroom serves a hearty, home-cooked Russianlunch from a menu that typically features three or fourselections. We tried the marinated briskette with mushrooms and the ginger chicken with vegetables, although the chicken-stuffed cabbage rolls looked great.Both meats were moist and tender, but the frozenmixed vegetables and the tough broccoli spears werea disappointment. A chocolate amaretto cake, the onlydessert offered, was fabulous. Cafe Moustache servesan interesting selection of Indonesian food on Fridayand Saturday evenings. (9454 Marsh Lane. 350-9314. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun.MC, V, AE. $$ ) 5.0
Don’s Seafood and Steakhouse. (Steak & Seafood) We mean it in the best of ways when we say that Don’s is the Sears of seafood. This sprawling emporium is a far cry from fancy (who cares about the difference ’twixt turbot and turbo-diesel?), but the long menu of mostly fried fish and Cajun specialties offers a sound value forfish lovers who prefer quantity over chichi. (2361 W Northwest Hwy. 350-3667. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. $$) 4.0
Joy Inn. (Chinese) Possibly the most popular Chineserestaurant in Dallas, this place can seat a regiment andstill serve a meal in record time if you say you’re in ahurry. The appetizer platter, with its tasty egg rolls andtender shrimp, is a good beginning. But don’t stray toofar from the Cantonese standbys when you order maincourses, since the so-called Hunan dishes are hardlyrecognizable imitations. Come here when you wantgood ol’ moo goo gai pan served with a smile. (9404 Ovella at Northwest Hwy. 352-1088. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am 11 pm. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
Jozef’s. (Seafood) See McKinney/Oak Lawn. (2460 Walnut Hill Lane. 351-5365. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30: dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservationsrecommended. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
D Kebab ’N’ Kurry. (Indian) See Addison/Rich-ardson/Far North Dallas. (2620 Walnut Hill Lane. 350-6466. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30: brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $) 7.5
Kosta’s. (Greek) This Greek restaurant has a lovelyview of old live oaks and Bachman Lake, with a patiowhere you can dine if the weather is right. What morecould you want? Well, you can’t get the whole gamut ofGreek dishes here, and some of the best-known (suchas the spanokopita) can be disappointing. But you canget fantastic grilled shrimp, a creamy moussaka andrich desserts. The selection of wines is wider than youmight expect, and our last visit produced none of theproblems with service that we’d had in the past: Ourwaiter was both well-organized and very helpful. (2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Mon-Sat 11 am-midnight. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
La Tartine. (French Deli) See Upper Greenville/NorthCentral. (4343 Northwest Hwy, Suite 360. 351-4408. Mon-Sat 9:30 am-6 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.5
Mercado Juarez. (Mexican) If you never get tired of “Guantanamera,” the classic Cuban guitar ballad, then don’t waste a minute: You can hear it played at least four or five times an hour by genial strolling musicians whowill play it for you as though it’s their first time. Of course,they’ll play just about anything, but-like the menuchoices-choose the familiar, and you’ll be satisfied.The south of the border specialties aren’t prepared asdeftly as the more-requested standard Tex-Mex dishes.Perhaps that’s the irony of a large operation: More isless when the menu’s too expansive to adequately handle everything perfectly. But we don’t hesitate to recommend the pork fajitas; they are marinated and broiledto perfection. The other dishes (especially those withpork) are a notch above most Tex-Mex restaurants.And the margaritas (especially those with Cuervo Gold)pack a sure punch. We enjoy everything here exceptthe wait on busy nights. (1901 W Northwest Hwy.556-0796. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sunnoon-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) See Las Colinas/Mid-Cities. Fort Worth. 5.0
Peking Szechuan. (Chinese) The food and service here more than make up for the odd location and lack of decor. The hospitable, knowledgeable waitresses push several of the house specialities, and they clearly know what the kitchen does well. The Seafood Delight was a delicately cooked assortment of brightly colored vegetables amid shrimp and scallops. The beef with orange peel had a wonderfully crunchy coating under the hot, sweet sauce. We intend to go back and test the waitress’s contention that the chef can cook the whole repertory of Chinese dishes just as well. (2560 W Northwest Hwy. 353-0129. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat noon-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$). 6.0
Piccolo Mondo. (Adriatic) This restaurant delivers tasty versions of standard Adriatic cuisine, including fine tortellini and fettuccine Fish and shellfish get a particularly nice treatment, but the standard veal dishes don’t have much zing to them. Our first visits made Piccolo Mondo seem a possible contender for the superior Italian restaurant Dallas doesn’t yet have, but more recent experience hasn’t fulfilled those initial hopes. (9507 Overlake Drive at Ovella. 357-2983. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10:30, Fri-Sun 5-11. Allcredit cards. $$$) 5.0
D REVISITS
Pop Bailey’s. (Seafood) When we first entered this Northwest Highway “catfish restaurant and oyster bar,” we weren’t quite sure what to think. Pop’s art consisted of enlarged antique photographs and brightly colored Chinese kites, and the dining room wasn’t exactly crowded. But by the time we’d finished our enjoyable appetizer of peel-and-eat shrimp (served with gratis fried biscuits and honey butter), Pop’s was completely full. We knew why after savoring our entrees: The fish is fantastic! Both the char-broiled red snapper and cornmeal-wrapped fried catfish filets were plump, juicy and flavorful. Side dishes and the one dessert offered, oreo cappuccino ice cream pie, are good but not great; when you pop over to Pop’s, get your calories from the catfish instead. (3750 W Northwest Hwy. 350-9748. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 4-11 pm, Sun 4-9:30 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Turtle Cove. (Seafood) Our most recent visit restoredour confidence in the place that set the Dallas trend ofbroiling seafood over mesquite. Our salmon was perfectly cooked over the coals, and the kitchen showedit could manage other techniques by frying up somesnapper perfectly. The trick to keeping expenses downis to forego the appetizers and desserts: They run thebill up. and they’re not worth the extra price. (2731 W Northwest Hwy. 350-9034. Sun-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE. $$$) 6.5
ADDISON/RICHARDSON/FAR NORTH DALLAS
Agnew’s at the Promenade. (Continental) Tom Ag-new’s new venture has nothing to do with the original Agnew’s, which closed earlier this year. The food is something of a surprise. The chef tends to prepare a lot of putt pastries for the appetizers, and the sauces forsuch things as the escargots with cheese and ham areheavy and creamy. The blackened red snapper (blackening fish is all the rage in New Orleans restaurantsthese days) is superb, and the desserts are very rich,sweet and luxurious. (2500 Promenade Center, Coil Road between Belt Line and Arapaho. 437-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30.Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC- $$$) 7.0
August Moon. (Chinese) Every time we go back to this Far North Dallas favorite, we are more impressed. August Moon offers a variety of really unusual dishes. Among the appetizers are Ming shrimp in Chinese pancakes and beef-stuffed dumplings that are the tastiest in town. Equally exotic is the authentically prepared Eight Treasure Duck, which is first baked, then steamed and sauced luxuriously. But August Moon does equally well with standbys such as egg rolls and sweet-and-sour pork. The quality here is hardly a secret, so youcan expect a wait during peak hours. (15030 Prestonat Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11 am-10:30 pm. Dim sum served daily. Reservations lor four or more or lor special banquets.Bar by membership. All credit cards. $$) 7.0
D BIom’s. (French Nouvelle) Dinner at Blom’s is an elegant experience. The inspired menu here is in perpetual flux: The left side changes seasonally; the right side, nightly. The constant is a sense of adventure that blends the methods and some of the style of nouvelle cuisine with the complexity and fantasy of more classic French cooking. Our lamb chops, for instance, came coated with a mousse of capon in which fresh rosemary was embedded, surrounded by a light sauce and a garnish of assorted beans cooked until they were barely tender. Caribou was artfully presented with a subtly tart gravy. Entrées were preceded by a soup containing julienne frog legsand lettuce, an overly vinegared salad and a sorbet ofapplejack and tarragon. Our dinner ended on a moreconservative but delicious note with a gratin of fruit anda chocolate Marquise. (Westin Hotel, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9494. Dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-11; Sun brunch:10:30-2:30. Reservations recommended. All creditcards. $$$$) 8.5
Boston Sea Party. (Seafood) Quantity rather thanquality is what you pay your hefty $22.95 (fixed price)for here. Several of the dozens of mostly seafood itemson the all-you-can-eat buffet tables are good enough todevour en masse-we were especially fond of the kingcrab legs and the hot popovers. There’s even a decent(and again, hefty) cooked-to-order course of lobster,salmon or steak. But far too many of the dishes had abland, standardized style and a bitter aftertaste suggesting the Deepfreeze for us to take too much pleasure in all this bounty. (13444 Preston. 239-7061. Mon-Thur 5:30-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5-10:30 pm. Sun 4:30-8:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$$) 3.0
Café America. (Eclectic) What a disappointment! Maybe we expected too much from this typical department-store lunch spot because it’s housed inside trendy Bloomingdale’s. The badly stained seat cushions andcarpet were an immediate affront to cleanliness, andour waiter lacked experience. He advised us not toorder a Reuben sandwich because it takes too long tothaw out the corned beef. Later, he acted surprised thatwe wanted our gazpacho appetizer before our entrees.We opted for a well-seasoned but lukewarm vegetablelasagna and a nicely flavored, spicy Oriental beef dishladled over crunchy noodles. A final note: Skip thedesserts. (Bloomingdale’s, Valley View Center, LBJ Frwy at Preston. 450-2300. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm.Closed Sun. AE, Bloomingdale’s charge; personalchecks accepted. $$) 3.5
D REVISITS
Café Capri. (Continental) It’s obvious from the cars out front, even at lunch, that the Far North Dallas moneyed set has taken Cafe Capri to heart. (We are accustomed to seeing assorted Mercedes-Benzes and BMWs, but the block-long Rolls-Royce limo impressed even us.) The decor is posh, without breaking any new ground, and the service is surprisingly warm. The food isn’t revolutionary, either,but the standard dishes, from pate and shrimpcocktail to crème caramel and chocolate mousse,are executed reliably. One rather original touch wasa lavish use of garlic in the veal piccata. (15107 Ad-dison Rd near Belt Line. 960-8686. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. All creditcards. $$) 5.5
Cantu’s. (Tex-Mex) This old North Dallas standby has moved much farther north and-|udging from the crowd the night we went-has taken its loyal clientele with it. Cantu’s offers Tex-Mex with no surprises, it’s rather bland for some tastes, but dependable. The beef enchiladas are meaty – just right for introducing a newcomer from the North to the mysteries of Tex-Mex. The char-broiled specialties such as chicken and shrimp are similarly plain but honest-except for the beef fajitas, which are so heavily marinated as to be unpleasant. The service is earnest and pleasant; the decor, a bit sophisticated. (5290 Belt Line, Suite 132, Addison. 991-9105. Tue-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$) 4.0
Charley’s Seafood Grill. (Seafood) Along the restaurant strip in Addison are three of Dallas’ most successful formula restaurants: Chili’s, Bennigan’s and Charley’s Seafood Grill. All three are winners because they adhere to strict tenets: Keep it simple, and do it right. Charley’s capitalizes on the city’s new-found love affair with fresh fish and shellfish, which is served either mesquite-grilled, lightly fried or sautéed. We tried a temperately spiced brochette of shrimp and scallops (very good) and a portion of fried catfish (tasty and without a traceof grease). Good homemade fries, a simple light slawand possibly the best hush puppies around came alongas side dishes. If you don’t like cheesecake, you won’tlike Charley’s desserts (cheesecake, cheesecake orcheesecake), but don’t worry: Two Snickers candy barsarrive with the check. (5348 Belt Line, Addison. 934-8501. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC,V. AE. $$) 5.0
Chu’s. (Chinese) From the robust pu-pu platter (with standout shrimp toast) to the plump mushrooms that adorn the General’s Chicken, from the beautifully ornate dishes and colorful Japanese lanterns to the courteous, smiling waitress, our dining experience here was memorable. Just one flaw: The boneless braised duck, while dreamily tender, is not entirely boneless. Watch out. (15080 Beltway. Addison. 387-1776. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 4:30-10, Fri & Sat 4:30-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
Chuck’s Old-Fashioned Hamburgers. (Burgers) The key word here is “old-fashioned.” Chuck’s doesn’t serve those newfangled burgers as big as your fist, but it doesoffer good versions of the near-vanished kind that havethinnish (though still one-third pound) patties. Theburgers come (unless you specify otherwise) with theonce-classical trimmings of mustard, onion, pickles, lettuce and tomatoes – no mushrooms or sautéed thingson these burgers. But what really makes them good isthe grilled buns. Hardly anybody knows how to do thatanymore, and it’s the secret of the difference betweenokay and heavenly hamburgers. (502 Spanish Village Shopping Center, Coit at Arapaho. 386-7752. Daily 11 am-10 pm. No credit cards. $) 4.5
Dovie’s. (Southern) Soldier/actor Audie Murphy’s house used to be out in the country. Now it’s in the middle of booming Addison, and its comfortable and elegant rooms are a good place to eat down-home cooking. The onion soup is the best in town; the chicken-fried steak and pot roast, excellent; the mashed potatoes, homemade rolls and home-cooked vegetables, delicious. The sautéed snapper and the wonderful-sounding desserts were disappointing, but the enthusiastic, skillful service wasn’t. (14671 Midway. 233-9846.Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-10, Sun 5:30-9; Sun brunch: 11-2:30. MC,V, AE, DC. $$) 5.5
Enclave Spectrum. (Nouvelle) After an initial displayof independence, this new restaurant in the building atthe hub of all the development in the Addison area nowshows an increasing resemblance to its namesake onWalnut Hill. Enclave Spectrum no longer has the prixfixe dinner that made it such a bargain. Some of themore adventuresome dishes are still around, but otherthings on the a la carte menu are in the more old-fashioned continental style of the original Enclave.(5080 Spectrum Dr,. Suite 115E. 661-3390. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6-11:30.All credit cards. $$$) 6.0
Forbidden City. (Chinese) Perhaps because it’s named after the royal heart of China, this place definitely tries harder. The waiters and even the manager line the walls of this ambitious Far North Dallas restaurant, making sure that no empty plate lingers on the table and that no glass goes unfilled. But we do wish that they’d relax and smile occasionally and that the foodlived up to all the effort. This is good, standard NorthChinese stuff (chicken with cashews, beef with snowpeas, shrimp with two sauces), all unexceptionable butunexceptional. How about applying some of that hardwork to the kitchen? (5290 Belt Line, Suite 144. 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am,Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Fuji-Ya. (Japanese) At first glance, this place seems less traditional than other Japanese restaurants in town. There’s no tatami seating, for example, and waitresses are more often dressed in jeans than kimonos. The food, though, is both traditional and excellent. We tried most of the appetizers and found that they were appetizing indeed. Among the entrees, the shabu shabu (vegetables and thin slices of beef cooked at the table) was our favorite. Fuji-Ya also offers “bento” meals, with bits of everything tucked into individual compartments on a lacquered tray. (13050 Coit. 690-8396. Tue & Wed 11 am-10 pm, Thur-Sat 10 am-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm.MC, V, AE. $$) 4.5
Gallé. (French/Continental) The burgundy velvet banquettes and etched glass partitions of this roomy hotel restaurant contrast oddly with the sounds of the honky-tonk piano from the bar outside, and on a slow night, the place can seem deserted. But the food is prepared expertly, if not always memorably. The appetizer selection of pates, like all the other dishes here, looks lavish: Three differently patterned p3tes compete for attention with a tomato tulip filled with caviar. The salads are similarly fantastic: potpourris of Belgian endive, tomatoes, pickled quail eggs and bleu cheese. The portions of sirloin steak and Dover sole topped with crab meat and hazelnut sauce that we ordered were so large we couldn’t finish them, and they were garnished with a bevy of vegetables that included wild asparagus in hol-landaise and glazed turnips. (Lincoln Hotel, Lincoln Center. 5410 LBJ Frwy. 934-8400. Tue-Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations requested. Jackets and ties required. Allcredit cards. $$$$) 6.5
Golden Chopsticks. (Chinese) We thought we knewall about Far North Dallas, but Far North Addison wasterra incognita even for us. This new Chinese restaurantis attractive enough without being fancy, and it hassome excellent dishes, especially in the spicy (thoughnot very hot) Hunan and Szechuan styles. The most impressive one we tried was General Chio’s Spicy Chicken: large chunks of chicken breast fried and then stir-fried, flavored with lots of sweet pepper and freshginger. The Pork and Shrimp Hunan Style was a lovelydish, contrasting chewy shreds of pork flecked withblack beans with tiny shrimp in a mild, tomatoey sauce.(16601 Addison Rd, Addison. 931-6868. Sun-Thur 10:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 10:30 am-11 pm. All credit cards.$$) 4.5
Highland Park Cafeteria. (Southern) See Knox/Hen-derson. (Sakowitz Village, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8025. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5:15-8 pm, Sat 11 am-8 pm, Sun 11 am-3 pm. No liquor. No credit cards. $) 6.0
D REVISITS
Hamburger Hut. (Burgers & Argentinian) You couldn’t guess from the name or the very plain storefront exterior that this is perhaps the only Argentinian restaurant in the Metroplex. The delightful family that runs the place serves first-rate charcoal-broiled hamburgers and cheap steaks-which shouldn’t be too surprising, since the land of the gauchos is cattle country. In the evening, there are a few ethnic specialties such as Milanesa (a slightly spicy chicken-fried steak) and Argentinian sausage. But the accompaniments-limp salad, canned peas and frozen french fries-aren’t very exciting. The real discovery here is the empanada, a fried pastry filled with meat, eggs and potatoes and served with spicy chimichurri sauce-a bargain at $1.25. (30 Arapaho Village, Arapaho at West Shore, Richardson. 235-5387. Lunch: Mon-Sat 10:30-3; dinner: Wed-Sat 6-10. MC, V. $$) 4.0
Jasons. (Steak & Seafood) It had been awhile since wevisited this cozy, elegant restaurant, because its lobsterspecial wasn’t. Unfortunately, the only thing memorableabout our latest visit was the check. It didn’t reflect theskimpy appetizers of steamed clams, crab-stuffedmushroom caps or baked oysters, all of which were flavorful except the bacon-laden oysters. The eveningspecial, crab-stuffed calamari, was a disappointment;the crab flavor was overwhelming. A luscious-lookingprime rib was flavorless. The evening was saved,however, by a tasty combination of shrimp scampi andpasta. And a fresh blueberry tart from the pastry cartwas a pleasant surprise. (Sakowitz Village, 5100 BeltLine at Dallas Pkwy. 960-2877. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2;dinner: Mon-Fri 5:30-10:30, Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Allcredit cards. $$$) 4.5
Joe T. Garcia’s. (Tex-Mex). The smell of cooking oil pervades this place every time we come here-it even reaches out into the parking lot. It’s too bad that the oil and everything fried in it is so unpleasant, since there’s some very good cooking going on at the Addisonbranch of the famous Fort Worth landmark. The grilledbeef, the chilaquiles (an egg-and-tortilla casserole), theretried beans and the guacamole are all exemplary.(4400 Belt Line, Addison. 458-7373. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-11 pm, Sat 11-11, Sun 11:30 am-10 pm; Sun brunch: 11:30-3. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.0
D Kebab ’N’ Kurry. (Indian) You can’t buy better Indian food than the last dinner we had here. The flaky fried-pastry appetizers (samosas) filled with meat and peas and the pakoras of cauliflower and eggplant were light and delicate. The main dishes balanced beautifully. We tried boti kebab (lamb) that was fork-tender, korma (chicken) drenched in cream and fresh coriander, and eggplant and potatoes in a mild curry sauce. The Indian desserts were rich and flavorful, too. This place is a leading candidate for the best bargain in the city. (401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300. Richardson. 231-5556. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $) See Stemmons/Bachman Lake. 7.5
Korea House. (Korean) This place has been less thanabsolutely dependable throughout its existence. On ourlast visit, we hit it on a downswing-the fried appetizers,for instance, were dismally soggy. But even when it’snot at the top of its form, Korea House offers manypleasures. The most famous Korean dish, bulgoki (akind of barbecued shredded beef), is always goodhere, and the side dishes of cold vegetables arewonderful: marinated cucumbers, spinach with sesameseeds and the spicy fermented cabbage called kim-chee. The waitresses, in their long, silk Korean gowns,try hard to please. (Promenade Center, Colt at Belt Line, Suite 610, Richardson. 231-1379. Daily 11 am-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.5
Laurel’s. (American Nouvelle) This penthouse restaurant appeals mightily to the eye. The view is breathtaking, the decor is elegant, and the presentation of each dish is elaborately imaginative. The nouvelle food may not taste quite as good as it looks, but it’s excellentnonetheless. The oysters were beautifully poached,and the lamb was cooked to order, but neither of thesauces on the dishes was memorable. The prices, however, are a bit lower here than at most restaurants ofcomparable ambition. (Sheraton Park Central Hotel,12720 Merit. 385-3000. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5
Lenotre. (French Sweets) See Upper Greenville/NorthCentral. (Sakowitz Village, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. 934-8300. ext. 210. Mon-Sat 10 am-6 pm. MC,V, AE, Sakowitz charge. $$) 6.0
Le Train Bleu. (Continental) It’s not easy to imagine anair of seclusion in the middle of Bloomingdale’s, butonce you board Le Train Bleu, you are indeed in another world. The offerings here are ambitious (extraordinarily so when you stop to consider that you’re sampling department-store fare) and, for the most part, successful. A paté Campagne was wonderfully country-rich and was presented beautifully with thinly sliced new potatoes in a mustard vinaigrette. We tried the snailsserved in a hollowed-out square of bread with an unusual sauce of honey, anchovies, garlic and diced greenpepper, and we were quite delighted with the results.A cold sliced lamb plate was less pleasing; it was properly pink but was gritty in spots. A frozen caramel souffle and the very creamy crème brulée confirmed LeTrain Bleu’s expertise in preparing French desserts.(Bloomingdale’s, Valley View Center, 13320 Montfort 450-2290. Lunch: Mon-Sat noon-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-8. Closed Sun. AE, Bloomingdale’s; personalchecks accepted. $$$) 5.5
Mario and Alberto. (Mexican) Probably the best Mexican restaurant in Dallas, this popular place distinguishes itself by constant innovation. Among the new offerings on our last visit were the delightful flautitas (tiny, delicate, crisp fried flutes of chicken-stuffed tortillas) and the pork in a peppery red sauce. Old favorites such as the beef tenderloin studded with garlic and peppers never fail to delight, either. At the end of a meal here, we can never bring ourselves to order dessert from the menu -we look forward with too much relish to eating the pralines, which are heavily spiked with cinnamon. (Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ Frwy at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5.50 membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$) 6.5
Mother Shuckers. (Seafood) This oyster bar at thewest end of the Addison strip has good food andmodest prices. You order at a counter and take awayfresh-shucked oysters and boiled shrimp yourself(servers bring cooked items to you when they areready). The menu consists mainly of fried seafooddishes, which are done well for the most part. Shrimpfried in a beer batter and whole catfish coated with corn-meal were our favorites among the main dishes. Accompaniments include charming spiral-cut fried potatoes and a slaw that’s not too sweet. There are occasional specials such as boiled crawfish, served all-you-can-eat. (3957 Belt Line between Midway and Marsh. 788-2772. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11.Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Mr. Sushi. (Japanese) Dallas’ newest Japanese restaurant, Mr. Sushi, offers an authentic sushi bar: a counter behind which several formidable Japanese men wield vicious-looking knives to slice hunks, cubes and sliversof raw fish. The large blocks of fish, along with tentaclesof octopus, squid, shrimp and salmon eggs, sit meticulously wrapped in plastic in refrigerated cases atop thebar. If a bar whose sole purpose is to divvy up raw fishdoesn’t excite you, maybe it’s just because you haven’tbeen brave enough to try it. This is the place to experiment with tuna (which is as tender as the best rare beef)or yellowtail, which is softer and richer. Octopus andabalone may be too chewy for most American tastes,but most explorers will find something to like in thebright, refreshing taste of the marinated rice, spicypickled ginger and incredibly pungent green horseradish. Mr. Sushi also does a very good job with thestandard cooked Japanese items. (The Quorum, 4860 Belt Line. Addison. 385-0168. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2;dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-10. All credit cards. $$) 6.0
Oysters. (Seafood) We hate to be redundant, but we have to ask the same question we asked on our last visit: You guys can sure do good things with the fish, sowhy not give the same attention to the extras? We havenothing but compliments for the redfish, broiled withbutter and a touch of lemon juice, and the deep seascallops, served in a light butter sauce. But the Idahotrench fries didn’t taste fresh, the coleslaw tasted wateryand the flavor of the hush puppies was nil. Both the dining and decor in the new Piano location are casual andcomfortable, and the service is above average. (4580 Belt Line. 386-0122. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Sun 5-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) See Piano, Las Colinas/Mid-Cities. 5.0
Pat’s Sandwich Delicatessen. (Deli) See Park Cities/Lovers Lane. (Prestonwood Town Center. Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. 991-6161. Mon-Sat 10 am-9 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards $) 5.0
Purdy’s. (Burgers) This is the home of the high-tech -and high-priced-hamburger. Under the exposed heating ducts and amid the yards of bent neon (an American flag in addition to a myriad of beer logos), you belly up to the counter to order huge burgers on homemade buns. Then, when your name is called, you add all the fixin’s you want from another bar. There’s also a meat market and a bakery on the premises and lots of longnecks and soft drinks in old-fashioned bottles. The quality is high, but we find it difficult to shell out $3.95 for a burger and almost another buck for some home-cooked but not very remarkable fries. (The Quorum, 4812 Belt Line. 960-2494. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V. $) 4.5
Raphael’s. (Mexican) See McKinney/Oak Lawn. (The Quorum, 4900 Belt Line. 991-3610. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-3 pm & 5:30- 10 pm, Fri 11 am-3 pm & 5:30 pm-11 pm, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun 11:30 am-9 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. MC, V, AE, DC. $$) 5.5
The Ribshack. (Barbecue) See Park Cities. (913 Canyon Creek Center, Custer at Lookout, Richardson. 644-7427. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Nocredit cards; personal checks accepted. $$) 6.0
Ristorante La Bella. (Northern Italian) It’s time for usto quit looking down our noses at suburbia when it canboast a place like La Bella. Comfortable yet classy, LaBella may not be worth a drive from Oak Lawn, but ifyou live in the northern reaches of our world, this placeshould become a regular part of your work week. LaBella’s hot antipasto tray, a kaleidoscopic collection ofmeaty mushrooms, artichoke hearts and other thingsvaluable, is particularly noteworthy. At first, we wereoverwhelmed by La Bella’s enormous menu, but except for some rather commonplace desserts and ameasly serving of veal, everything we tried was betterthan average. The pasta was hot and well-spiced; thewine list, though not ambitious, was nevertheless complete. (6757 Arapaho, Suite 721. 991-2828. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri 5:30-11,Sat 6-11. MC, V, AE, DC. $$) 4.5
D REVISITS
Ristorante Lombardi. (Northern Italian) We returned to one of our favorite Italian restaurants anticipating the usual warm ambiance, charming service and delectable food. Well, the ambiancehadn’t changed, and the service was friendly (if a bitdistracted), but to our dismay, the food wasn’t up tostandard. Our tried-and-true favorite pasta, tortel-lini di parma, wasn’t as creamy as we remembered,though just as flavorful. And the grilled shrimp ingarlic butter was dry and tasteless; there was notrace of garlic, and the shrimp didn’t seem fresh.But the special, veal scaloppine Marsala, was tender and flavorful, and the accompanying souffle ofspinach, carrots and potato was deliciously light.The souffles, especially the unusual raspberry,were as sinfully good as ever. (Adelstein Plaza,15501 Dallas Pkwy at Arapaho. 458-8822. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:45-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:45-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards.$$$) 6.0
Rusty Pelican. (Seafood) If Fantasy Island has a seafood restaurant, it’s probably an outpost of this California-based chain. Plants hang down from every-where, photographs of catamarans dot the walls, andinstead of rotary fans on the ceiling, there are large clothones that move back and forth in synchronization. TheRusty Pelican is a seafood chain, as you can tell by thedisplay of iced-down fish that greets you when you enter, but it shouldn’t be confused with the other seafoodchains that bear similar names. This one has an impressive variety of unusual selections. In general, the quality is good, but on return visits we have had some disappointments. (14655 Dallas Pkwy, Addison. 980-8950. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: Sun-Thur 4:30-11, Fri & Sat 4:30 pm-midnight. MC, V, AE, DC. $$) 6.0
Salih’s Bar-B-Que. (Barbecue) This rustic restaurant on the Addison strip is a popular lunch spot for North Dallas workers because it serves hearty, home-stylemeals. Salih’s offers plates of mild barbecued beef,pork, chicken or sausage, as well as sandwiches. Bothtypes of entrees are served with surprisingly goodvegetables (including green beans, french fries, cabbage, pinto beans and – our favorite – potato salad), allserved buffet-style. And the friendly service makes theplace seem even warmer. (4801 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2900. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 30 pm. Closed Sun. Nocredit cards. $) 4.0
Sergio & Luciano. (Italian/Continental) Our last several visits have shown Sergio & Luciano to be at top form -and that is formidable. The pastas, in particular, have been expertly prepared. Our favorites among the regular menu offerings are the tortellini stuffed with chicken and the Panieri dello Chef (a pastry shell with seafood in a cream sauce served on a leaf of radicchio). Among the specials, the linguini jardiniere- with broccoli, carrots and mushrooms in olive oil – is a marvelous way to enjoy some pasta and eat your vegetables at the same time. Among the other dishes, the shrimp in champagne sauce is a standout. (The Quorum, 4900 Belt Line, Suite 250. 387-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10. Allcredit cards. $$$) 6.5
D REVISITS
Shangri-La. (Chinese) So far north it’s almost out in the country (although the way development is proceeding in Far North Dallas, not for long), the Shangri-La is handsome, popular and dependable. The old standbys, such as chicken with cashews and beef with broccoli, are dependable if unremarkable. Hotter dishes, such as shredded pork Hunan style, have enough zing to make them interesting. (17194 Preston at Campbell. Suite 115. 380-1988. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
Stetson’s. (Steak & Seafood) This is a surprisingly good spot for the new generation of board-room Texans (rather than the barroom variety). Stetson’s is a steak place-there’s no doubt about that- but the furnishings are different from what we’ve seen in most places thatserve 2-inch-thick steaks with all the trimmings: The dining room looks downright nice. That scared us at first,but the service was friendly, and the beef was cookedto perfection. The only concession to North Dallas chicwas the baked potatoes served in printed, resin-coatedpaper jackets. Stetson’s serves great hot rolls and theOrtega salad, a tough-guy appetizer with the biggestbeefsteak tomatoes we’ve seen in years, served withpeppers and slabs of sweet red onion and marinatedin vinaigrette dressing. (The Registry Hotel, 15201 Dallas Pkwy. 386-6000. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-3; dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards.Reservations recommended. $$$) 7.0
D REVISITS
The String Bean. (Southern) Suburban families flock to eat the home cooking at The String Bean -there’s even a kiddie playroom so the youngsters wont feel they’ve missed something by not going to McDonald’s. The meats include tender barbecued chicken and crisp chicken fingers along with rather stringy pot roast and a good version of the ubiquitous chicken-fried steak. It might be hard to entice kids to eat the accompanying vegetables, since the string beans are highly seasoned with pepper. We can’t recommend the blueberry cobbler we tried, but the chocolate brownie with ice cream was worth fighting over. (8846 Spring Valley- 783-9947. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. All credit cards. $) 4.5
Taiwan. (Chinese) See Upper Greenville/North Central. (4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. Lunch: Sun-Thur 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10:30; Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30 Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$) 7.0
Tan|ore. (Indian) Indian food is still an adventure for most Dallas folks, and a meal here is a delight. Settle into the calming apricot-colored environs, accustom your ears to the Hindi music and begin by sampling the Tanjore Tray, a selection of lightly fried meats and vegetables. Beef magulai, murg mussalam and shrimp masala are three entrees that show off the breadth of the unfamiliar and the variety of combinations of curry, coriander and other Eastern spices that our culture neglects. Enjoy the different meat, chicken and lamb dishes with saffron rice, and close the meal with mango lassi (a kind of Indian ice cream) or a Tanjorita, a smooth yogurt drink. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line. 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-10; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-3. Bar membership available. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
Tong’s House. (Chinese) We heard months ago about the fabled food at this small, out-of-the-way Chinese restaurant in Richardson, but our first visit didn’t impress us. But continued raves from acquaintances drew us back, and this time we found all the praise justified. On weekends especially, there are marvelous seafood specials. Although the kitchen ran out of the beautifulcracked crab before we could get any, the scallops withhot peppers and the shrimp with snow peas were bothexcellent. Most of the specialties at Tong’s House arespicy, such as the outstanding eggplant with garlicsauce and the beef with orange peel, but there areother fine dishes (such as the Szechuan soup withbacon and the thinly sliced white radish soup) that areeasy on the tongue. (1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Tue-Sun 11 am-9:30 pm. ClosedMen. All credit cards. $$) 6.0
D Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. (Chinese) As Dallas’ best Chinese restaurant matures, the staff seems to be becoming more hospitable – and the food, as always, is stellar. The spicy Hunan dishes can be complemented with such offerings as beef with snow peas or chicken with walnuts, not fiery with peppers but still robust. The menu has lots of byways to explore-frog legs, rabbit and dishes cooked in theHunan steamer pot. (The Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy,Suite 3370. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Jackets required fordinner. All credit cards. $$$) 8.5
PLANO
D REVISITS
Albert’s Delicatessen. (Deli) Part of the attraction of this old-fashioned-looking place in downtown Piano is the owner, who is a character for the record books. There are also some excellent sandwiches, including juicy hamburgers. The most unusual sandwich is made of basturma, an aged, dried beef with a spicy flavor of the Middle East. We are growing to love the cinnamon-flavored cheesecake. (1416 Avenue J, Piano. 424-4534. Mon-Fri 7 am-8 pm, Sat 7 am-4 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards,personal checks accepted. $) 4.0
Bob Willy’s. (Barbecue) Gel on out here while it’s stillmore or less country -there’s an ominous-lookingcrane looming across the way. You’ll want to go to BobWilly’s because it’s the nicest place you’ll ever eatbarbecue. Attached to a homey antiques store, this restaurant is the picture of a country dining room, and itoverlooks a grove of willow trees and open fields. Thebarbecue is good, if not outstanding -everythingcomes doused in a sweetish, slightly spicy sauce. Thepecan and buttermilk chess pies will reinforce your conviction that your grandmother-or somebody’s grandmother-must be hovering about the place somewhere. (1933 Preston, Piano. 985-0624. Breakfast:daily 6-11; lunch: daily 11-2:30; dinner: Thur-Sun 5:30-9. No credit cards. $$) 5.5
Fishmonger’s Market Seafood Cafe. (Seafood) At this tiny Piano fishmarket, which doubles as a restaurant and takeout shop, both fried and broiled seafood come off admirably. The broiled scrod was impeccably fresh and delicate in texture, and the fried catfish and oysterswere both crunchy, needing just a bit more salt to bedelectable. All orders come with a not-too-sweet slawand a choice of freshly cut trench fries or red beans andrice. (1915 N Central Expwy, Suite 600, Piano. 423-3699 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-10 pm. Sun noon-9 pm. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
Jimanny’s. (Steak & Seafood) The best thing about Jimanny’s is that it isn’t an outpost of some chain. There is a bar, and the lighting is dim. but it feels more like an unpretentious small-town restaurant than one of those slick places from the television ads that keep assuring you what a good time you’re going to have. The beef is served in large portions (especially the Jimanny’s cut of prime rib), but it can have something of an off taste, as though it had been treated with seasoned salt before getting to the table. The serving staff is very youthful and not always professional. (2901 W Parker, Piano. 985-1339. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-1 am.Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 4.0
Oysters. (Seafood) See Addison/Richardson/FarNorth Dallas. (2901 N Central Expwy at Parker. 422-2469. Mon- Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Sun 5-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.0
Sarducci’s. (Northern Italian) The menu at this Piano restaurant is Northern Italian-fairly adventuresome for Dallas and very adventuresome for Piano. Most Northern Italian restaurants have their biggest successes in cooking pasta and veal, but so far, these aren’t Sarducci’s strong points. Instead, the vitello tonnato appetizer was far and away the best version around, with paper-thin slices of veal roll floating on a lemony tuna sauce. The best entrees were the river trout (crusty and served with a green sauce on the side) and the soothingly creamy chicken Delfino. (Harvey House Hotel, 1600 N Central Expwy at 16th, Piano. 578-8555. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner daily 5-11; Sun brunch: 10:30-2. Allcredit cards. Lunch $$, dinner $$$) 5.5
GARLAND/MESQUITE /ROCKWALL
Café Maria. (Mexican) This Mexican restaurant in Southeast Garland is a puzzler. It looks like a barbecue joint, and the personnel seems anything but ethnically authentic, yet someone is obviously trying hard to turn out unusual and authentic Mexican specialties. But maybe they’re trying too hard. The menu is so long that not everything could be cooked well, let alone authentically. The ordinary Tex-Mex isn’t bad here, but it’s hard to ad|ust one’s expectations, aroused by the appealing-sounding dishes on the menu, to the prosaic realities onthe table. (6541 Duck Creek. Garland. 271-8456. Mon-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-10 pm. Sun 11 am-3 pm. All credit cards. $$) 4.5
D REVISITS
Culpepper Cattle Company. (Steak & Barbecue) This is the place to take out-of-state visitors if you want to show them the Texas they came to see: It’s theatrically Western in decor and serves beef cooked all kinds of ways. (The lovely hillside view of Lake Ray Hubbard might educate the folks to some of the more unexpected pleasures of the state, too.) We prefer the steaks, which are of high quality and cooked to order, to the barbecue, at least as exemplified by the rather tasteless spare-ribs. Perhaps the best thing on the menu, though,is the mesquite-broiled quail-smoky, juicy andvery memorable. (309 E 1-30, Rockwall (214) 722-1001. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11.MC, V. AE. $$) 5.5
Chuggs. (Burgers) The motto of this unique Garland sandwich shop is “Love at first bite,” and truer words were never advertised. The hot dogs-Vienna (a brand name) 100-percent kosher beef-are great, although the chili served on the chili dog is impossibly sweet and contains (horrors!) beans. The sautéburger we tried, with sautéed mushrooms, peppers, tomatoes and real cheddar, was unequaled by any hamburger in our previous experience. The Reuben was also a definitive sandwich. There’s no need to trumpet the praises of the desserts at Chuggs; members of the family that owns the place are always ready to recommend their favorites. (730 W Centerville, Garland. 686-1500. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun 1-10 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 6.5
LAS COLINAS/MID-CITIES
Bruni’s. (Italian) There’s something to be said for cheap Italian restaurants like Bruni’s, located in a Bedford strip shopping center -especially if “cheap” means solid, reasonably priced meals in clean, modest surroundings. You won’t find strolling musicians here, just tables covered with red-and-white checked oilcloths and friendly waitresses to take your order. We sampled a variety of the offerings, including fried ravioli, fried artichoke hearts, shrimp scampi and spaghetti with mushrooms. Our favorite item was the huge batch of artichoke hearts-only $3.50. Our least favorite dish was the spaghetti (specifically the sauce, which was too heavy on the tomato paste and too light on the spices). (2855 Central Dr., Bedford. (817) 283-4380. Mon-Sat 5-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.0
The Brussels. (Belgian) We don’t know of a less pretentious place in the Metroplex offering authentically European food than this Arlington restaurant – and as far as we know, it’s the only one that claims to offer Belgian cuisine. Certainly we don’t know of any place where you can get a meat course and three vegetables for as little as $4.25-that’s all the broiled chicken will set you back. The beef and fish entrees are higher but are still a good bargain. Since even kids are made to feel welcome (there are child’s plates and American dishes), The Brussels is a useful addition to the environs of Arlington Stadium and Six Flags. (1300 Copeland nearthe l-30/Hwy 157 interchange, Arlington. (817) 861-4488. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat & Sun 5-11 pm.All credit cards. $$) 5.0
Café Cancun. (Mexican) See Park Cities/Lovers Lane. (Lincoln Square Shopping Center, Arlington. 792-3388. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V,AE. $$) 5.5
The China Rose. (Chinese) This Arlington restaurant,which serves Hong Kong-style Chinese food, has hadits ups and downs. This time, we’re happy to report thatboth food and service are on the upswing. We faredbest with the chicken and pork dishes; the seafood, incomparison, was bland. The decor and ambiance (including minor “street” parades, with authentically cladwaiters pulling dragon kites and floats) were as lavishand loud as we remembered. (1401 N Collins, Arlington. (817) 277-5888. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.0
China Terrace. (Chinese) This new restaurant in the northwestern reaches of Las Colinas is among the more ambitious Chinese establishments in the Metropiex.The hors d’oeuvres include delicate spring rolls and anassorted cold plate featuring excellent cold chickenwith sesame sauce. In the China Terrace prawns, youwill find nearly three dozen toasted hot peppers amongthe well-cooked shrimp and peanuts. The fresh spinachwith garlic and sesame seeds is a delightful way to eatyour green vegetables. If you’re feeling extravagant,the most delightful dessert here is the Empress FruitSculpture: gothic spires made of apples surroundingcarved oranges, honeydew and chunks of banana.(5435 N MacArthur. Irving. 258-1113. Mon-Thur 11am-10 pm, Fri 11-11. Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-10pm. MC. V.AE. $$) 5.5
Empress of China. (Chinese) The garish red-and-yellow sign that announces “Empress of China” to the world might make you think that decor isn’t one of the restaurant’s finer points. Think again. Inside, the Empress is almost regal: spare, white and subtly elegant. The food is mostly middle-of-the-road Chinese -better than adequate but less than outstanding. One dish to try: the Shrimp (or Seafood) Wor Bar. (2648 N Belt Line, Irving. 252-7677. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon- 10 pm. Reservations. All credit cards.$$) 4.0
D Enjolie. (Nouvelle) If you want to be pamperedwith some of the best cuisine in town in a relaxed but elegant environment, try Enjolie. Thepheasant mousse, surrounded by a not-too-sweet blueberry sauce, is an ethereal beginning to a meal. Themain course of three different kinds of fish, each in itsown sauce, is subtle rather than showy. And all thedesserts are spectacular-if you can find room between the French cheeses and the petits fours servedafter dinner. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel, 221 S Las Colinas Blvd, Irving. 556-0800, ext. 3155. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun.Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0
II Nonno’s. (Northern Italian) As a rule, restaurants located near airports are unspectacular, drawing customers who happened to be there rather than those who really wanted to be there. II Nonno’s, in the AmfacEast Tower at D/FW airport, is the exception. The food,service and decor all make it well worth your while.Among the appetizers, our favorite was the carbonara:pasta in a rich cream sauce with bits of bacon andherbs. The entrees we sampled, veal parmigiana andeggplant Parmesan, were memorable, too. The serviceshould also be singled out: The waiters and waitressessing and serve with equal enthusiasm. And we were impressed by II Nonno’s willingness to go the extra mile:After we ordered cappuccino and were told there wasnone left, we received other drinks free of charge. (East Tower, Amlac Hotel, D/FW airport. 453-8400. Daily 6-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
Mercado Juarez. (Mexican) See Stemmons/BachmanLake. (2220 Miller Rd, Arlington. (817) 649-3324. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11:30 am-10pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.0
On the Border. (Mexican) See Knox/Henderson. (2011 Copeland, Arlington. (817) 460-8000. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
Oysters. (Seafood) See Addison/Richardson/FarNorth Dallas. (8206 Bedford-Euless Rd, N Richland Hills. Metro 498-5511. Daily 11:30 am-midnight. MC, V,AE. $$) 5.0
D REVISITS
Poppa’s Ristoranta. (Northern Italian) If you enjoy eating to operatic overtures, this is the place for you. From a raised platform with a baby grand piano in the center of the dining room, owner Phil Wolcott and songstress Karen Fontenot serenade guests with a medley of opera classics. In addition to the music, Poppa’s features Northern Italian veal, beef and chicken entrees and an ample selection of pastas. (On a recent visit, our favorite was the tortellini in a light cream with just a hint of beef.) We found the veal medallions to be tender and perfectly sauced with capers and citrus; the Tuscany chicken, however, tasted of too much breading. (226 Lincoln Square. Arlington. (817) 460-1327. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5
FORT WORTH
Autumn Moon. (Chinese) With typical decor andstandard but unremarkable dishes, the East Side’sAutumn Moon establishes itself in the middle of theslender ranks of Oriental restaurants in Fort Worth. Ouradvice: Stick to the basics. The shredded pork withgarlic sauce, for example, was fairly spicy and wellworth our investment, and the shrimp with snow peaswas equally good, though rather basic. (5516 Brent-wood Stair. Fort Worth. (817) 496-6633 Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. All creditcards. $$) 3.5
Aventino’s. (Northern Italian) A pleasant surprise awaited us at this intimate Italian strip-shopping-center restaurant. Although the restaurant is barely more thana hole in the wall, patrons are treated to a showroomproduction of Paraguayan harp and classical guitarmusic every Friday night. Our meal was on an even parwith the entertainment. An appetizer of soft meltedcheese (served with fresh bread for dunking) was a delicious starter. Among the entrees, veal (lightly breaded and served with fresh lemon) and spinach fettuccinewere recommended and proved to be wise choices:They were satisfying, yet light enough to leave room forcheesecake and espresso. (3206 Winthrop Ave. (817) 731-0711- Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 5-9. MC, V. AE. $) 5.0
The Balcony. (Continental) Overlooking the lights of busy Camp Bowie Boulevard from our table inside The Balcony, we began our meal with escargots drenched in butter. Broiled lamb chops and fresh lobster followed. We were surprised at the size and freshness of the crustacean: It was expertly prepared, with the sweet flavor of the meat enhanced by the drawn butter. Theunhurried pace of the service, the flickering candlelightand the distant tinkling of a piano lent a romantic air toour evening. But this isn’t just a place for lovers: We alsospied a family celebrating a birthday, three women co-workers enjoying dinner and several tables of business-suited men discussing the latest stock market flurry. Thediversity, however, only adds to the restaurant’s charm. (6100 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-3719. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Allcredit cards. $$$) 5.5
Bella Italia. (Italian) Every neighborhood should boast such a place – one where you can relax with a glass of Chianti after a hectic day or where you can bring your new in-laws. Bella Italia’s well-worn atmosphere makes you feel at home, even if it’s your first visit. The food is a mite lackluster, and the strolling accordion and guitar players play with a bit too much enthusiasm and volume, but it’s been a long time since we’ve seen such unpretentious service in comfortable surroundings with modest prices. The menu is wisely limited (why propose to do more man a small Kitchen can adequately do?),with a select tew pasta, veal, chicken and beef entrees.The baked artichoke appetizer with shrimp, scallopsand cheese was a good start. From the menu, we wereimpressed with the veal scaloppine, which was tenderand mercifully not coated in a thick breading. Of thepastas, the one with artichoke hearts, eggs, bacon andcream was the most creative. (2913 Walton. (817)294-7979. Tue-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm Closed Sun & Mon. All credit cards. $$) 5.0
D REVISITS
Cattlemen’s Steak House. (Steaks) The only frills you’ll find at the Cattlemen’s Steak House are on the waitresses’ imitation chiffon aprons. Extras like bacon, cheese and lemons cost more. Our salad was strictly a plain iceberg-lettuce version, and the brown bread was stale. But customers don’t come to the historic restaurant for the frills. They come forthe steak, which compensates for any flaws leadingup to the main course. The filet mignon was cookedas ordered and was tender and juicy. The ribs, accented with a spicy barbecue sauce, were equallygood. Cattlemen’s is the only place we know wherethe waitress fluffs your baked potato and fussesover customers with motherly sincerity. Even thecheesecake, which seems totally out of place in thisrustic setting, was smooth and creamy. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11 am-10:30 pm,Sat 4:30-10:30 pm, Sun 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$) 6.0
Benito’s. (Tex-Mex) Our all-time favorite waiter, Tino, is still in fine form at this haven of traditional Mexican cuisine on the South Side. “I’ve got some nice fajitas for you, madame; for you, sir, I’ve got some really nice chile rellenos.” We must admit that the gregarious service is one of the things that attracts us to Benito’s, but the main stars of the show are the delicious and authentic dishes that are a standout in the Metroplex. (Owner Maria Umland says that some of her most popular dishes are made with beef tongue and cabrito). For weekendbrunches or late-night snacks, migas (scrambled eggswith tortillas and a fiery sauce) are always in demand.When the menu says “sizzling fajitas,” that’s what youget; we almost wish they’d pass out welder’s masks witheach order. And the fine tortilla soup comes with justabout everything. Simply put, the food is some of thebest Mexican cuisine around. (1450 W Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Sun-Thur 10-10, Fri & Sat 10 am-3 am. Nocredit cards. $) 6.0
Edelweiss. (German) The crowds at this cavernous German-style restaurant attest to its continuing popularity. On weekends, the wait can exceed an hour for a table-and longer for food. But the dirndl-clad frauleins are friendly and try to make the best of a slow kitchen. And owner/entertainer/band leader Berndt Schnerz-inger does his part to keep your mind off the wait: He sings requests and old standbys such as My Way (with – you guessed it – a German accent). The food is generally of high quality: The heaping sauerbraten plates continue to please, and we found the ribs (bothpork and beef) delectable. (3801 A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Mon-Thur 5-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. All credit cards. $$) 4.0
D Hedary’s. (Lebanese) The word must be outFor the first time, we encountered a line atHedary’s, the fine West Side Lebanese restaurant. But we endured the wait because we knew thatthe meal would indeed satisfy our cravings for lambshish kebab and various spicy sausage and beefdishes, all served in a piping-hot fold of Lebanesebread. The family-run restaurant manages to keepprices low and servings generous. Come hungry, sincethe best way to start your dinner is with the seven-sampling salad course that can be a meal in itself. (3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie. (817) 731 -6961. Tue-Thur 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon. Noreservations. All credit cards. $$) 7.5
J.J.’s Oyster Bar. (Seafood) At J.J.’s, you can have your seafood any way you like it. as long as you like it fried. Cholesterol counts aside, you’ll love J.J.’s. It’s just what an oyster bar should be: a long bar with stools for perching, some “tall tops” (tall, round tables with matching stools) and waitresses in jeans who bring you plastic baskets bulging with deep-fried fish and shellfish.Purists can feast on orders of raw oysters. (929 University. (817) 335-2756. Mon-Sat 11-11. Sun 4-10 pm. Nocredit cards. $) 5.5
Kincaid’s. (Burgers) Next time you’re longing for thedays when life was easier and burgers were beefier,stroll on over to Kincaid’s. This old-time grocery storewith the grill in the back is a comforting slice of the olddays. And Kincaid’s famous burgers are the best part:They’re thick, flavorful and stuffed with such tried-and-true additions as lettuce, tomato, onions and mustard.You probably won’t even notice that you can’t sit down,so just stand at one of the shelf-top counters and munchcontentedly while you peruse one of the nearby magazines. Ahhh, the good old days. (4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:15 m. Closed Sun No credit cards. $) 6.5
Le Café Bowie. (Continental) This restaurant is one of the best in Fort Worth for dinner. Sadly, the nighttime sparKle of this unpretentious spot fades when the sun’sup. At a recent brunch, the Eggs Louis IX (described asbeing scrambled with shrimp) had the texture and tasteof puréed eggs. The consistency was far too thin, andthe occasional bite of shrimp didn’t redeem it. But heartier appetites may be satisfied: A few dinner-type selections are also offered for brunch. All in all, we still enjoythe homey atmosphere at Le Café Bowie, but in the future, we’ll stick to dinner dates. (4930 Camp Bowie. (817) 735-1521. Lunch: Wed-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11; Sun brunch: noon-2. MC. V; personal checks accepted. $$$) 6.5
Mercado Juarez. (Mexican) 1651 E Northside Dr. Sun-Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am. MC, V,AE. $$) 5.0
D Michel. (Classic French) Michel’s fixed-price menu has climbed to $34.50 from the previous $29.50, but even though the price has gone up, the portions of our latest four-course meal seemedto be on the lean side. Michel’s dedication to quality,however, remains unchanged. The sea scallops weretender and juicy; the escargots, rich with butter andgarlic; the entrees of lobster and lamb, deftly prepared.The accompanying crisp vegetables with pasta wereperfect complements to both dishes. Fortunately, ourmain courses didn’t leave us feeling too full for the fluffy chocolate-Grand Marnier souffles, which disappeared without a trace. On weekends, there are twoseatings for dinner: one at 6, the other at 9. If you arrivefor the latter, be prepared to wait. (3851 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-1231. Tue- Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6 pm-mid-night. All credit cards. $$$$) 7.5
The Original Mexican Food Café. (Tex Mex) The long lines at this popular Mexican food restaurant are due more to tradition than to outstanding food. Oh, the combination plates are okay, and the service is quick and efficient, but overall, the food isn’t really excep-tional. But that’s not the point, as throngs of Fort Worth natives will tell you. The margaritas are huge, and, moreover, the restaurant looks like the real thing, with concrete walls, cracking linoleum floors and bustling waiters and waitresses. (4713 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-6226. Sun, Mon, Wed & Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Tue. All credit cards. $) 5.5
Ristorante Lombardi. (Northern Italian) The cobblestone, brick and wrought-iron entryway, subdued lighting, fragrant aromas and bustling waiters and busboys all combine to make this among the most romantic spots for dinner in Fort Worth. And the European-inspired dining room, decorated in moderate tones of green, cream and dark wood, adds to the overall charm. One detraction, though, is that the tables are awfully close together. If we had stretched out on our last visit, we could have sampled our neighbors’ dinner. The appetizer of fried calamari, mozzarella and shrimp let us enjoy several of the appetizer offerings inmoderation, which happily left us room to try the frequent special of steamed clams, which were plump andrich with herbs. Lombardi’s offers several seafood selections, and the seafood brochette (with shrimp andscallops) offered ample portions of two of them. Theveal piccata, moderated in a light wine sauce, didn’toverwhelm our senses with citrus. (300 Main in Sundance Square. (817) 877-1729. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$) 7.0
Robert’s. (Mexican) Housed in the building where Hamp’s Hoffbrau used to be, Robert’s is making an impressive showing on the local dining scene. The best steak, appropriately called Robert’s Steak, is as wide as it is thick. The fajitas are top-notch, and the guacamole surpasses all others we’ve tasted in Cowtown: chunky and spiked with just the right amount of chili sauce. (215 University. (817) 877-5515. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-8 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.5
Sardine’s. (Italian) When the uncontrollable urge for steaming plates of pasta hits you, don’t waste a minute: Get over to Sardine’s, squeeze into one of the booths or the many tiny tables and feast on a delectable order of spaghetti carbonara-a pasta lover’s delight of whipped cream, hunks of bacon, mushrooms, onions and eggs. This dish outranks such standards as fettuc-cine Alfredo and traditional spaghetti. For something lighter and less sinfully carbohydrate, the daily chefs special, a Northern Italian bouillabaisse, is chock-full of shellfish served in a rich red sauce that’s just right for dunking garlic bread. Despite the slightly too-dim lighting, the too-loud jazz band and the always bustling atmosphere, you can bet we’ll be back for more. (3410 Camp Bowie. (817) 332-9937. Sun- Thur 5:30 pm-mid-night, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-1 am. All credit cards. $$) 6.0
Stockyards Hotel Restaurant. (Steak) This stately three-story hotel dates back to 1907, when it was a lively center during the cowboy boomtown days. It has now been dusted off and reopened to attract the throngs of tourists that regularly invade the historical stockyards area. Once the obvious is accepted-namely, that this is a novelty hotel and restaurant-then it’s easy to like the haute cowboy decor of the hotel and the attempts at rustic ambiance in the saloon/restaurant. Although the kitchen can turn out a basic steak,our rib eye had a bit too much gristle, and the T-bonewas overdone. The real treats were the delicious beansand the homemade corn bread and jalapeno bread.We have just one question: How do ladies sit sidesaddle at the bar? (109 E Exchange, Fort Worth. (817) 625-6427. Sun-Thur 6:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30 am-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.0
Texas Connection. (Continental) On a recent visit to this restaurant, we waited more than an hour before any sign of food came our way. And once the food did arrive, it didn’t prove worth the wait. The artichoke appetizer was smothered with Parmesan cheese, and the chicken and veal dishes were just so-so. The only true standout of our meal was the Italian wedding soup.Light but filling, with lots of fresh pasta and herbs anda homemade taste, it could have made a meal in itself.The place has unmistakable charm; it just needs tochannel it in the needed areas: food and service. (1408 Morrison, Fort Worth. (817) 496-3666. Tue-Thur 5-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5 pm-midnight. Closed Sun. All creditcards. $$$) 4.5
D REVISITS
Szechuan. (Chinese) We wish we could find another Chinese restaurant in the Fort Worth area that can match this place. What Szechuan lacks in atmosphere, it more than makes up for in heaping portions and helpful, good-natured service. On every visit, our waiter has spent time with us, going over the menu’s best selections and steering us clear of those that may be too hot and spicy for timid palates. Our recommendations are the house specialties. The House Beef arrives garnished withfresh, crisp broccoli and Chinese mushrooms, andthe House Pork is a consistent winner, with a mildgarlic sauce complementing the shredded meat.Pass on the exotic drinks, but try the deep-friedgreen beans in the pu pu tray. (5712 Locke off Camp Bowie. (817) 738-7300. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm.All credit cards. $$) 6.0
D Tours. (Continental) We continue to be impressed with the formidable presence Tours has established on the Fort Worth dining scene. The small strip-shopping-center location and the tiny, boxlike room at first appeared to be detrimental factors to this restaurant’s growth. But the owners have remained undaunted and continue to present an original and evolving menu. The serene pastels and unobtrusive yet pleasant service soothe work-wearied nerves, and the unflagging fare with nouvelle touches satisfies our gastronomic cravings. We were captivated from the beginning with the novel appetizers, which included a delicate but substantial egg roll and an upscale version of a traditional quesadilla. Among the entrées, we found the veal medallions with shallotsto be so tender we could use a fork, and the steamedsalmon with a slightly tangy spinach sauce was thefreshest we’ve tasted in a long time. (3429B W Seventh St. (817) 870-1672. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended on weekends. MC, V, AE. $$$) 7.5
The Wine Seller. (Continental) Dinner by candlelightis made even more romantic if you can have a chilledbottle of your favorite champagne and a wine, cheeseand pate board, too. Such is the premise of the WineSeller, and it excels in both the romance and epicuredepartments. Although the cozy bistro has a daily menuof well-prepared continental fare (chicken, beef andpasta dishes), we find the appetizers perfect for a lightdinner, especially the pepper and truffle patés andsmoked Gouda and Boursin cheeses. Accompaniedby fresh fruit and scrumptious French bread, the”boards” are the perfect complement to any bottle ofwine, which can be selected from the restaurant’s ample wine vaults. (6120 Camp Bowie. (817) 737-2323. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-mid-night. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$) 6.5
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