Most people scale back on eating out in January. The food team at D did not get that memo. We ate out several times a week in January, getting a taste of new menu items and exciting flavors. There was plenty of moving and shaking in the food industry, too. Let’s get into it.
Highlights
- We had a lot of delicious barbecue at Hurtado Barbecue.
- Tiffany Derry is franchising.
- A longtime steakhouse in North Dallas is closing.
Our Favorite Dishes We Ate in January
Banana Praline Pancakes at La Casita Bakeshop. If you crave deliciously sweet and fluffy pancakes for breakfast, look no further than these at La Casita. The James Beard Semifinalist bakery is one of the best in North Texas, and the shop recently launched a brunch menu featuring these pancakes. The two cakes are stacked on top of each other, and they are massive. They aren’t overwhelmingly sweet—that comes from the nutty hazelnut maple syrup and the brûléed bananas, which are halved the long way and finished with a browned sugar crust. – Nataly Keomoungkhoun
A very full tray at Hurtado Barbecue. Sports editor Mike Piellucci and I visited to see whether Hurtado’s promise of free barbecue for life should be enough to lure pitcher Jordan Montgomery back to the Rangers. The answer is yes, obviously, but if I had to single one thing out, it would be the brisket tostada: crunchy, smoky, rich, and oh-so spicy. Heck yeah. – Brian Reinhart
Fried Olives from Bacari Tabu. My mind exploded when I popped one of these olives stuffed with caciocavallo curds into my mouth. I am an olive fan but even an olive hater will love these, I’m sure. The briny olive taste isn’t overpowering, and mixed with the cheese: to die for. The first order is complimentary at Bacari Tabu, and it will be hard not to order a second or a third. – N.K.
A first visit to Waya Japanese Izakaya. This Lakewood spot has flown under my radar for too long. It’s been open for five years, which means I need to travel back in time five years and visit here at least 20 more times. It’s a tiny spot with terrific ramen, fun appetizers, tall pitchers of beer, and a very low-key atmosphere. (This would be a great place for a secret meeting.) If you want the blowtorched appetizer pictured here, order aburi shimesaba. – B.R.
Paneer Makhani at Sanjh. This new fine dining Indian restaurant in Las Colinas isn’t exactly an everyday dining spot, but I’ve been thinking about the paneer makhani every day since my visit to Sanjh. (We’ll have a post soon about that visit.) The burnt orange tomato cashew curry was poured on top of slightly roasted paneer chunks, with charred bits peeking out from under the gravy. It was well-seasoned, buttery, everything you could want in a comfort meal. – N.K.
Aged duck breast from Georgie. Consider this a teaser for our full-length review, coming soon in the April issue. (If that feels like a long time, remember, subscribers read it first.) Early this month, we enjoyed dry-aged slices of duck breast plated with a duck sausage, made from trimmings and stuffed into cabbage leaves. The side elements around the duck have changed since our visit—the menu says it features grilled strawberries—but you’ll be impressed by the deep flavor and super-crispy skin that aging can create. – B.R.
Wild Mushrooms from Mirador. Oh, man. This dish surprised me. One, because there’s a sheet of fried rice paper on top that hides the wild shrooms, so you have to “unveil” the dish by breaking the sheet bit-by-bit. Interactive. I loved it. Two, because it was one of the most unexpected explosions of citrus, cream, and peppery goodness I’ve ever tasted. I can’t describe it any better than that. Please go try this. – N.K.
Food News
Keith Lee visits Dallas: The TikTok star has already visited a handful of restaurants in North Texas: Thunderbird Pies in East Dallas, Terry Black’s in Deep Ellum, Halal Fusionz in Farmers Branch, Hutchins BBQ (McKinney and Frisco), Absolutely Edible Cakes in Rowlett, and Sweetly Seasoned Food Trailer and Catering in Garland. We’ll recap his visit once he’s left the city.
Franchise news: Chef Tiffany Derry and her business partner Tom Foley are franchising Roots Chicken Shak, according to a press release. The duo wants to open up business opportunities to marginalized communities, and they’re going to plan to franchise in North Texas first.
Relocations:
- Denton Independent Hamburger Co. moved over a block from its original spot, where it had operated for more than 30 years, according to the Morning News. The new place opened earlier this month.
- The Stoneleigh P is moving to 4218 Lemmon Ave. this spring. The historic burger and beer spot has been open since 1973 in an old pharmacy, but the landlord didn’t renew the lease, so they had to move.
- Christophe de Lellis, executive chef at Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas, is leaving Vegas for Dallas to open a new European restaurant in Uptown called Mamani.
Brew News: Union Bear Brewing Co. in Plano is expanding operations up to Denton, according to CulureMap. The new location will open this spring on South Bell Street.
Holeless bagels: Starship Bagel in Downtown Dallas is serving no-hole bagels in partnership with Philadelphia Cream Cheese. The bagels will be available through Feb. 12.
Openings & Closings
9NINE Kitchen & Lounge: Matt Judon, a New England Patriots player, is opening a restaurant in Victory Park in March. According to a press release, “NINE” stands for “Niche Community, Innovative Menu, Nightlife Experience, and Elevated Entertainment.” So far there’s no website or menu, but we’ll keep an eye out to see what it looks like. 2211 N. Houston St.
Abby’s Bagels: There are more bagels available in Dallas, and we love to see it. Abby’s Bagels opened on Greenville Avenue in January, joining the ranks of North Texas’ growing list of bagel shops, including Starship, Scalfani’s, Shug’s, Lubbie’s, and more. 1915 Greenville Ave.
B-Side Coffee: A new coffee shop has quickly moved into the former Peaberry Elmwood space. B-Side Coffee is owned by Whitney and Caleb Marsh, who were Peaberry’s former landlords. CultureMap reports the couple wanted to take advantage of the space already operating as a coffee shop, while also pursuing their love for coffee. It’s slated to open early February. 2105 S. Edgefield Ave.
Cenzo’s Pizza & Deli: A new pizza and deli opened in North Oak Cliff in December, and its menu boasts crisp pizzas, hot and cold sandwiches, and a slew of apps and salads. According to reviews on Google, it’s already becoming a neighborhood favorite. 1700 W. 10th St.
Chido Taco Lounge: A second location of Chido Taco Lounge is opening in the Preston Hollow Village Shopping Center this spring, according to CultureMap. The restaurant will serve the same tacos, beers, and margaritas as the other in Frisco. 7949 Walnut Hill Ln., Ste. 130.
Chip’s Old Fashioned Hamburgers: The local chain’s Lakewood location closed at the beginning of January, according to CultureMap. There are still three locations in North Texas: Oak Cliff, Plano, and the OG in Park Cities.
Dozo Sushi To Go: Sushi boxes to-go! Dozo’s grand opening is Feb. 1, and it has sushi boxes starting at $25 with combos of nigiri, maki rolls, and sashimi. Learn more here. 800 E. Arapaho Rd., Ste. 112A, Richardson.
Greenville Avenue Pizza Co.: GAPCo has closed its Richardson location in December, according to a press release, citing that the Richardson outpost strayed from their other two concepts. Richardson was full-service, while the other two, on Lowest Greenville and Peavy Road, have smaller footprints. 520 Lockwood Dr., Ste. 200, Richardson.
Herby’s Burgers: Herby’s Burgers officially opened in Elmwood Jan. 12, according to its Instagram. The restaurant is co-owned by DJ Sober (Will Rhoten), Peaberry coffee owner Elijah Salazar, and Jake Saenz, owner of Rev’s Grilled Cheese. We heard on opening week, folks were lined up for hours to get the coveted burger and tots. 2109 S. Edgefield Ave.
Isla & Co.: The Australian cafe is closing Feb. 11, according to an email. The restaurant popped into the Bishop Arts District in 2022 in the former Lucia space, serving delicious breakfasts and kangaroo skewers. 408 W. Eighth St.
Joey: Canadian restaurant chain Joey opened its first Dallas location Jan. 18 at NorthPark Center in the old Seasons 52 spot. The space has been converted to include a dining room, lounge, and patio area. Joey has steaks, pasta, sushi, and more. 8687 N. Central Expy.
Lawry’s The Prime Rib: The Beverly Hills-based steakhouse is closing its Dallas location in March after a 40-year run, according to a press release. The decision stems from the sale of the building to a new owner. An official date will be announced soon, the release says. 14655 Dallas Pkwy.
Monkey King Noodle Company: The local noodle house announced on Instagram that it was closing all locations except its Deep Ellum flagship on Main Street. The closed locations are in Richardson, Grapevine, The Exchange, and Kitchen United.
NDA Brasserie: A bar inspired by lawyers, more specifically, law firm Haynes and Boone, which is the anchor tenant at Harwood 15. NDA Brasserie will have sandwiches and burgers, and it’ll be open for breakfast and lunch seven days a week. 3008 N. Harwood St.
Nouveau Noir: An Atlanta-based restaurant with a Chicago theme will open this spring at Village on the Parkway with a Cajun-inspired menu. A press release says Nouveau Noir will serve brunch, lunch, and dinner. Its signature dish is the “Ultimate Cajun Seafood and Grits,” a comfort dish that includes chargrilled shrimp, salmon, and crab meat over stone-ground grits and a Cajun cream sauce. 5100 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 704.
Old 75 Beer Garden: The Morning News reported Old 75 Beer Garden has closed. The owners told the paper they had to close because of weather-related issues, which severely affected the business. It opened in April 2023. 740 S. Central Expy., Richardson.
Palma: A “Tex-Asian” restaurant will move into the former BrainDead Brewing spot in Deep Ellum this summer. The menu will have items like brisket rangoons and maybe sushi. 2625 Main St.
Remote Coffee: a former TC Shaved Ice stand in East Dallas will turn into a drive-through coffee shop in March. Remote Coffee is from Joel Roland (who also owns Yellow Rosa in Deep Ellum), and they’ll have all the classic espresso and coffee drinks, plus ones like cafe con leche and Horchata. 10999 Garland Rd.
Shanghai Taste: A new xiao long bao spot is coming to town. Chef Jimmy Li is bringing Shanghai Taste to Plano, according to the Morning News. The new spot is opening April 2024 and will have juicy, plump soup dumplings. 109 Legacy Dr., Ste. 120.
The Spelled Milk: A cereal bar and ice cream lounge opened in Oak Cliff in January. They have more than 100 cereals to choose from that can be served by the bowl, purchased by the box, or turned into a milkshake. Add a splash of your preferred milk (there are plenty to choose from), and you’re golden. 712 W. Davis St.
Toastique: A gourmet toast and juice cafe is finally opening its first Texas location in Addison on Feb. 10. Expect multigrain toasts topped with smashed avocado and microgreens or smothered with peanut butter and fresh fruit. 5467 Belt Line Rd.
Urbano Cafe: The Italian cafe closed at the end of January after 15 years in Old East Dallas.
Wicked Butcher: The steakhouse is finally open in downtown Dallas after a four-year closure of its last concept, Dallas Chop House. Wicked Butcher is the sister restaurant to another in Fort Worth, according to a press release, and it features a menu of land and sea dishes, plus an extensive wine list. Complimentary popovers are served with your meal. 1717 Main St.
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