Former Dallas Restaurant Critics: Mary Brown Malouf

Mary Brown Malouf at my high school graduation.
Mary Brown Malouf at my high school graduation.

I’ve been at my post here at D Magazine for 13 years. Sometime I wonder how many calories I have eaten; other times I wonder how many of those calories were actually worth ingesting. Restaurant reviewers eat more low-to-medium quality food than spectacular meals.

Anywhoo, in the post below, I mentioned Michael Hiller. He used to be a critic at the DMN. Over the years, I’ve seen lots of “critics” come and go. Anyone remember Betty Cook? Suzanne Hough (R.I.P)? Dave Faries? (Oh, he’s still here.) Or Mary Brown Malouf?

Mary was a real biyatch when she wrote dining reviews for the Dallas Observer. When she came to work at D in the late 90s, we became good friends. But Mary ditched D and Dallas and she’s now the Food and Travel editor at Salt Lake City Magazine. I just looked on their site and found a classic Mary Brown Malouf rant.  Gosh, I’m all nostalgic. Call me, Bill.

billHow about you? Who do you miss? Who do you love? Who do you hate?


  • TG

    WALTRINA. it all begins and ends with waltrina stovall. she scouted out the little places (long before the lovely bill addison came along), she ate organ meat, she knew delis, she was ethical to a fault, she eschewed any kind of attention or celebrity, her 100% germanic stock made her a crazed workaholic, her 100% germanic stock gave her insight into the kind of food that’s thrived throughout texas, she never made a typo, nothing seemed to please her, she smoked cigarettes, she liked a glass of wine, she was awesome

  • mary malouf

    WAS a real biyatch??
    Now hubby Glen Warchol introduces me as “the most hated woman in Utah.”
    Ironic, isn’t it, when I do it all for the love of food?
    But a robust art scene (food,theater,architecture,music) requires a strong critic. At least, that’s what Wick told me…
    btw, Nancy, parsley is HUGE here.

  • Hi, Mary. I can’t believe I forgot to list Waltrina. Teresa is right on about her. Parsley is out here. Radish sprouts are the new parsley!

  • LeeDog

    It’s Faries, not Fairies. That’s two posts you mispelled the name. I suspect an inside joke.

  • No, Lee Dog. I am just a dumb as the folks who spell Dotty “Dottie.” No jokes.

  • I miss Bill. I can’t help it. He was such a nice guy. My husband once cooked chicken fried steak for him at our house, while our dog Maxine stuck her paw down his shirt. She barely even knew him!

  • M Streeter

    I miss Ron Ruggles’ intelligent food reviews.

  • luniz

    What’s that part about instant coffee on airplanes? They have coffee brewers. I even once had good coffee on a plane, the stewardess claimed it was Blue Mountain…whatever it was, I sure did appreciate it. Airplane coffee is only bad or worse half the time, please don’t encourage them to switch to instant.

  • Kim Pierce

    I’d reach farther back than Waltrina to Liz Logan, who was about two decades ahead of her time.

  • Aimee D

    The writings of Mary are my own personal daily reference materials!
    Clever AND a good palate. xoxo

  • Yes, that girl can certainly lay down a rant!

  • Worzel Gummidge

    Be it noted that Mary Meatloaf was the first Dallas critic to represent “The Customer”. A normal practise in reviews in geek and car mags., but a thundering innovation in Dallas restaurant reviewing. She was Stuertz before Stuertz was cool.

  • Worzel, you are so right. She taught me so much. You think Stuertz is cool? I know Mark and I bet he doesn’t think he is cool. He will be flattered.

  • Anyone from the west side of the Metroplex remember Beverly Bundy and Jo Ann Vachule?