Sex. That sums up the stunning Bolla, executive Chef David Bull’s modern take on Italian classics at the newly remodeled Stoneleigh Hotel. With its Beaux Arts architecture and interior art-deco flair, the 85-year-old hotel is all sensuous glam after its recent $36 million makeover, and Bolla is The Stoneleigh’s centerpiece, a serious bid for culinary supremacy.
The powers that be certainly got it right with the interior design. Drenched in sun-kissed Hollywood Regency splendor, the long narrow room is neatly segmented by a series of gauzy, see-through curtains, providing a thin veil of secrecy for an afternoon rendezvous. The far end of the room is anchored by an oversized, rusted “THE,” rescued from the hotel’s old sign. From the creamy, dreamy neutrals to the sparkling, metallic-like place mats to even the iced tea accompanied by a side of lemony simple syrup and a stainless steel straw, Bolla gets the details right. It’s easy to imagine past Stoneleigh guests such as Jack Benny and Katharine Hepburn delighting in Bolla’s sumptuous digs.
Alas, Chef Bull’s inventive fare doesn’t live up to Bolla’s first impression. That’s a shame considering his pedigree: a James Beard nominee, named one of “America’s Best New Chefs” in 2003 by Food & Wine. With accolades like that, one expects grand things.
Lunch at Bolla certainly started off right. The arugula salad was a fresh, snappy choice, tossed in a trio of simple ingredients: Sicilian olive oil, cracked pepper, and house-made ricotta. Likewise, the prosciutto-wrapped asparagus delighted with its smoky, woodsy flavors. A side of Gorgonzola added the right pungent punch.
No, it’s Bolla’s entrées that leave the lunch diner longing for those simpler starters. The list sounded delicious enough. Beef short rib cannelloni tempted but was done in by overcooked pasta and a serious lack of salt. A Caprese panini should have been easy enough: sliced tomatoes, mozzarella, and torn basil leaves. Instead, Bull layers his sandwich with a flavorless chunky tomato spread, basil pesto, and cheese. The sandwich lacked tension and bite.
Happily, not all is lost at Bolla. Bull finds his way with the beef tenderloin. It’s melt-in-your-mouth perfection, complemented by a truffle-onion crumble and sigh-inducing Parmesan potatoes. Delicate skate wing sitting atop tomato risotto came to life as the waiter poured a fragrant Parmesan broth around the mound of rice.
For now, Bolla is more style than substance. The setting is picture perfect, sure to dazzle any lunchtime companion. And though the menu is spotty, one can’t help but have faith that the talented Bull will find his way in the kitchen. He better. Sex sells, but only so much.
THE LOWDOWN
BOLLA
Stoneleigh Hotel
2927 Maple Ave.
214-871-7111
THE FOOD:
Modern Italian
THE COST:
Average lunch entree price $18
WHO’S THERE:
Don Carty
Tom Hicks Jr.
Ed Haas
Gary Stone
WI-FI:
Yes
FULL BAR:
Yes
THE POWER TABLE:
The semi-private chef’s table
MORE BOLLA NEWS
The Stoneleigh Hotel brings back the weekday power breakfast featuring its new Texas Benedict (braised beef short ribs and chipotle hollandaise over jalapeño corn biscuits) and the classic trio of two eggs/bacon or sausage/toast. Pair either entrée with fresh orange juice and your choice of coffee or hot tea for $15.
CHEAP EATS
Chef Avner Samuel’s Aurora (4216 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-528-9400)—one of Dallas’ top five-star dining experiences with the prices to match—just got affordable. At least for lunch. The Oak Lawn restaurant now offers a three-course prix-fixe menu starting at $16.95. Enjoy offerings such as fennel pollen crusted sea bass, roasted heirloom beets, and chocolate cherry bomb with Bing cherry sauce.
THE ART OF LUNCH
Would you like a little vinaigrette with your Van Gogh? Celebrity chef Stephan Pyles has redesigned the menu at the Dallas Museum of Art’s Seventeen Seventeen restaurant (1717 N. Harwood St. 214-922-1858). Open only for lunch Tuesdays-Fridays, downtown workers can feast on East African sweet pea soup with cardamon lobster, hanger steak with apricot-coriander couscous, and soft shell crab on garlic naan.
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