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Commercial Real Estate

Diary of a Department Store Dick

Paul McDonnold
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Mall Security Illustration
John S. Dykes

In early 2019, I found myself needing something I hadn’t had in a long time: a part-time job. For more than a decade, I’d worked as a freelance writer. It hardly made me rich. But I counted it a blessing to work from home doing something I enjoyed, until a major illness kept me from working at all for most of 2018, while generating new bills. Now my health was restored, but my finances were sick. I was a 51-year-old man in need of a gig. So I went to the mall.

At the executive offices of one of the large department stores at a mall in Plano, the hiring manager told me the store needed sales associates. But there was also another option I might consider: security.

It was a plainclothes position, behind the scenes, monitoring video from cameras spread around the store like far-flung eyes. I would communicate with uniformed security guards, store management, and mall and even local police about theft, customer injuries, active shooters, and the like.

“You’re the traffic director,” he said.

I didn’t play hard to get.

We’ve known this day was coming for some time now, but it’s still going to be surreal not to see Weir’s Furniture at its usual post on the corner of Travis and Knox. It’s been there since owner J. Ray Weir first opened the store in 1948. The store will close on February 2 to make way for a 12-story office tower.

We won’t have to mourn Weir’s entirely. The traditional furniture store has worked closely with the local developers behind the 12-story project, and plan to reopen in an even larger street-front retail space in the next two years. (They’re also working to protect the façade of the former Highland Park Soda Fountain.) Plus, it will be business as usual at Weir’s other smaller locations in Southlake, Plano, and Farmers Branch.

And yet, even with Weir’s planned return, the whole thing still stings. Knox District has changed a great deal over the years (feel free to revisit this D Magazine post from the ’80s for a wild retail throwback), but the most recent changes have gone beyond tenant turnover. One of the most attractive things about the Knox-Henderson area has always been how different if feels from other Dallas neighborhoods — and the fact that pedestrians actually use the sidewalks. Quaint, single-story storefronts giving way to towering multi-use developments, even ones that are working to preserve history, will be a notable change.

Clearly, Weir’s impending closure has sparked a bit of nostalgia in us, so feel free to join us in a walk down memory lane via this post’s slideshow, and be sure to take one final walk through the store as we know it before it closes Saturday.

Business

Dallas Is Capitalizing on Digital Retail

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Karla Bernal

With apologies to the Dallas Cowboys, the most popular pastime in this part of the world just might be shopping. The Dallas-Fort Worth area leads the nation in shopping centers per capita and ranks among the nation’s Top 5 with about 460,000 retail workers.

Perhaps it started with charismatic merchant Stanley Marcus, maybe it owes to something else, but, this former trading post on the Trinity River has inexplicably grown into one of America’s shopping superstars.

We all know, of course, that the internet set off a slow-moving earthquake under the traditional retail sector. The rapid rise of e-commerce in the past decade or so means more of our shopping is being done from home—or, data tell us, from work. It’s quicker, often cheaper, with wider selection and no traffic or parking hassles.

As consumers in DFW and the rest of the country shift more of their buying on-line, we wondered whether an unlikely brick-and-mortar superstar can transition to an e-commerce superstar.

Let’s start by taking stock of the region’s e-commerce industry. Among the 20 largest U.S. metropolitan areas, DFW ranked fifth, with 10,056 companies operating in the e-commerce space in 2016, according to data from the U.S. Census Bureau. These companies employed 384,000 workers, fourth in the nation. Payrolls at DFW e-commerce firms exceeded $20.4 billion, seventh among MSAs. The North Texas region’s e-commerce sector is the largest in Texas.

She’s just that into me. Photograph by Melissa Romig.

The first time I saw Serena Williams play, I cried. It was 2009 and I was in NYC for a trademark and copyright seminar. Bored out of my mind during one of the sessions, I decided on a whim to see if I could get a last-minute ticket to the U.S. Open. The heavens shone down upon me, and I scored a loge seat for the night matches in Arthur Ashe for like $100. I hopped on the 7 Subway to Queens, found my seat, they dimmed the lights, and, as the Black Eyed Peas’ newly released single “I Have a Feeling” blared over the sound system and the spotlights chased each other around the arena, Serena took the court. The crowd went wild, and I sobbed like a 5-year-old meeting Elsa on a unicorn made of candy. That song still makes me tear up every time I hear it.

That was the same year that Serena threatened a line judge with physical harm, which I wasn’t cool with. But I soon forgave and forgot, because, in the end, she always gives more than she takes, to both the sport and the world at large. I haven’t missed a U.S. Open since. This past Labor Day weekend, I hovered behind the windscreen of the practice court as she sat just feet away on a bench, laughing with her coach, Patrick Mouratoglou, during a water break. I figured that was the closest we would ever be, and I was fine with that.

Then I got an invite to the VIP launch event Saturday night for her Great Collection at Neighborhood Goods, in Legacy West. Yes, that’s right: the GOAT has gone beyond 23 Grand Slam wins and a Nike catsuit controversy and the Beats “Queen of Queens” video endorsement and marrying that Reddit guy and motherhood posts about teething and being the newest board member of Survey Monkey and showing up to gal pal Megan Markle’s wedding in Valentino trainers to personally stock and style the shelves of a small pop-up shop in Matt Alexander and Mark Masinter’s new take on a department store.

In Dallas.

And so, of course, I went.

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Publications

Mizzen+Main’s First Brick and Mortar Is Good News for the Men of Dallas

Kelsey J. Vanderschoot
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Elizabeth Lavin

When it comes to dress shirts, men are often forced to sacrifice functionality in the name of professional appearance. Mizzen+Main CEO Kevin Lavelle figured that by substituting performance fabrics for cotton, he could counter many of the undesirable aspects of the traditional button-down: the tendency to wrinkle, untuck, and put perspiration on display.

“When you’re working hard, our shirt’s going to move with you,” Lavelle says. “It’s never going to restrict you, whether that’s putting a piece of luggage in an overhead bin, running to the train, running to your car—and that’s absolutely essential for our guys.”

When we caught up with Lavelle around the recent opening of the brand’s West Village flagship store, he could not have been more enthused. “Dallas is our home base,” he says. “This is where we launched. This is our headquarters. This is us: Dallas.”

Publications

Window Shopping at Neiman Marcus

Camille Davis
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Image
courtesy of Neiman Marcus

I was a kindergartner at First Baptist Academy when I first saw Neiman Marcus’ display windows. At that time, in the ’90s, the academy shared space with First Baptist Church, in downtown Dallas. Now the school is in East Dallas, and I’m a visual historian pursuing a Ph.D. at SMU. But the windows remain.

Every weekday morning throughout my grade school years, as my parents or my grandfather turned their car onto Ervay, I paid attention to the left side of the street. The corner of Ervay and Main was where the magic happened. There I would find scenes of the opulent and the avant-garde, with mannequins styled in evening gowns, cocktail dresses, wedding gowns, tailcoats, tuxedos, and tailored suits. There were bright colors, lush fabrics, and accessories that sparkled. When formal and cocktail attire were not being advertised, there were clothes on display that I imagined would be worn to church, high tea, or even a royal wedding: hats and knee-length, A-line dresses for women and morning suits for men.

The mannequins were only part of the show. Neiman Marcus gave equal attention to the environment, creating scenery that coordinated with each garment. One could not only envision wearing the attire but also learn under what circumstances the clothes could and should be worn. It was all a beautiful lesson about a certain type of excellence: namely, how to be appropriately adorned for life’s most exquisite occasions.

Decorated for French Fortnight in 1957.

The retail industry no longer gives physical stores the opportunity to be the sole educators of their clientele or the general public. People can now watch fashion shows in real time on their phones, get styling tips from YouTube and Instagram, and shop from home. Neiman Marcus has not been immune to the struggles of a changing industry and is trying to bounce back from its own specific financial challenges, which include long-term debt and liabilities in excess of $5 billion resulting from leveraged buyouts in 2005 and 2013. Despite these setbacks, the luxury brand reported its third consecutive quarter of sales gains in June. Part of that success comes from Neiman’s increased online sales. However, the store’s physical presence—which helped establish its legendary reputation—is still contributing to the brand’s success in new and surprising ways.

When I last spoke with Regina Merson, the one-time bankruptcy lawyer who loves a bold lip, she was working around the clock to get her makeup line Reina Rebelde off the ground. She told us—and I can’t remember if this was on our BraBurner podcast (RIP) or when we got tequila tipsy after the mics went dead—that running a start-up was so hectic, some days she only had time to eat a bag of Flaming Hot Cheetos.

But Merson is proof that hard work pays off, especially when you have a product that fills an empty niche, which in Reina Rebelde’s case is makeup geared toward Latinas (my fave lipstick is an electric red called “Brava,” which translates as “bitch be angry.”). Last week, Target announced that it was picking up eight new brands, totaling 150 new products, available in select stores. The internet went wild. Not only are the eight brands made for darker skin tones (inclusivity!) but they’re also indie lines run by women (hey ladies!).

Back in the fall of 2016, after Forty Five Ten opened its (literally) gilded downtown doors, I kept hearing excited whispers about a particular piece of décor: a rug decorated with private parts. Rumor had it you could find it in a bathroom, but after popping into several water closets to no avail, I finally walked up to a saleswoman and quietly asked where I could find the “penis rug.” Like a true professional, she directed me to the men’s floor without batting an eye. She didn’t even correct me and point out the lady bits.   

The rug, commissioned in the Brian Bolke era, represents what I appreciate most about the store. It’s high-end, but with a sense of humor, and a somewhat twisted one at that. (Did you see the $3,800 “scented coq“?) That’s why, when we were putting together our list of the 52 Things Every Dallasite Must Do, I suggested using the anatomically adorned rug in the feature.

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If you’ve ever tried to reference Forty Five Ten, and accidentally found yourself mentioning TenOverSix — or vice versa — you’re not alone. It happens sometimes! Those number names are hard. Remember when Forty Five Ten’s TTH used to be Five & Ten? What a time!

All of this number talk is to say that if you’ve ever second guessed yourself when it comes to referencing the bold, black-painted downtown Dallas department store or the newly Miami-based concept store just across the street, you’re about to be even more justified in doing so. (Although you were totally justified already — those number names, man.)

In another big move since Tim Headington acquired Forty Five Ten in 2014, Headington Companies has purchased TenOverSix, and appointed Kristen Cole, who co-founded the store with her husband Joe Cole in Los Angeles in 2008, as the president and chief creative officer for both Forty Five Ten and TenOverSix. 

Every now and then in this modern-day world, you come across a piece of content and try to fathom how nobody caught the problem before publishing to the masses. There’s the whole Pepsi debacle, and this particularly creepy Bloomindale’s holiday campaign. Swedish retailer H&M recently ran into some pretty serious trouble over their decision to have a young Black boy model a “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle” sweater.

Street-style star and cofounder of Dallas-based The Tot Miroslava Duma may have a slightly lower reach than the above brands, but her 1.6 million Instagram followers (nothing to sneeze at) did witness a similarly poor decision while viewing her Instagram Story on Monday night.

Duma, who is currently attending Couture Week in Paris, shared a photo of flowers with a note from Russian designer Ulyana Sergeenko that read “To my [N—] in Paris,” a nod to a 2011 Kanye West and Jay-Z. Apologies were quickly issued. (Sergeenko’s original, rather convoluted post has since been deleted, but you can read it in full here.)

Finds

Made In Dallas

Joy Tipping
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Jonathan Zizzo

In a city teeming with big-box stores and franchises on every corner, we wondered: are there any local places that started out as a family business decades ago and still operate under the same principles, no matter how large they may have grown? Turns out the Dallas area has dozens, if not hundreds, of thriving establishments built and run by generations of families. Some have been around 20 or 25 years; many have operated for nearly a century. Some have changed ownership but never moved far from home. All are still committed to the handcraftsmanship of their founders. They’ve got the callouses to prove it.

Hatco

A Head of Steam: Devin Marcum uses a hat steamer to block a white fur felt hat. Methods and equipment haven’t changed much at Hatco over the last half-century.
Originally founded in Dallas in 1927 by E.R. Byer and Harry Rolnick to manufacture Resistol hats (so named because they resisted all weather), Hatco moved to Garland in 1938. It’s the only place in the world where Stetson, Resistol, Dobbs, and Charlie 1 Horse fur felt hats are made, and the factory ships more than 1 million hats a year worldwide. “But we’re not high-tech at all,” says John Rosenthal, the director of plant operations. “Most of the equipment dates to the 1940s, some from the 1950s. And every hat is handled one at a time, all the way through the process.” They don’t sell retail at the factory, but you can nab some good deals at the affiliated outlet store next door, which also carries Stetson’s lesser-known fedoras, made famous by Tom Landry.

Jay R. Rury Violins

String Theory: Jay Rury has been in the business of violins—repairs, restoration, and sales—since 1975. He has worked on some of the top instruments in the world.
“The repair and re-hair of bows—you can’t do that on the internet,” Jay Rury says. He played violin and cello starting in grade school but found himself more interested in the instruments’ inner workings than in playing them. In 1975, Rury took a summer course on basic string repair, landed an apprenticeship, and has been in the violin business ever since. He opened his own shop in Oak Cliff in 1985, eventually moving the business to Richardson in 2006. His reputation followed. The Dallas Symphony Orchestra once sent him visiting soloist Young Uck Kim and his prized Stradivarius. “In walks this guy and says, ‘I’ve got a violin seam open and I’m going to lunch.’ He just dropped it off on my bench and went away. It was the Cessole Strad, one of the top five violins in the world, made in 1716.” Rury has also worked on a Gasparo da Salò, made around 1560. His shop abounds with conversation starters. Check out the century-old crocodile case at the front counter.

The Maddox Shop

Fit to Bust: Kathy Holland makes sure that customers leave feeling fully supported.
Peggy Maddox started The Maddox Shop in 1934 in her home, then moved to the Medical Arts Building in downtown Dallas. It made sense. She always had a medical mission; it just happened to involve lingerie. During the polio epidemic of the 1950s and ’60s, Peggy handmade undergarments for victims. When Peggy retired, she passed the shop down to her daughter-in-law, Doris Maddox, who owned it until Mark Snyder, the son of the company’s accountant, bought it in the 1980s. The shop—in Casa Linda Plaza for at least 50 years—now caters to women with breast cancer, offering pocket bras and prosthetic inserts. And seamstresses still work wonders with alterations and repairs. “We sell starter bras, and our sizes go from 30 to 56 around, and up to an O cup,” general manager Candace Kennemer says. “But if a woman is 66 inches around, we can add a panel to customize a bra to fit.”

Civello’s Raviolismo

Press and Go: Zaila Munoz (left) and Gladys Mermudez turn out thousands of ravioli daily.
Brothers-in-law Charles Civello and Ross Musso founded this small wholesale ravioli seller in the 1950s. Charles’ sister, Frances, and sister-in-law, Mary, made ravioli at home and sold it out of Civello and Musso’s import store on Oak Lawn. In 1989, the ravioli part of the business moved to Peak Street. Philip and Chena Civello, Charles’ son and daughter, have taken the reins. With the assistance of three employees, Philip makes 1,800 to 4,500 beef and ricotta ravioli a day, along with lasagna and other pastas. He laughingly recalls the first time they tried to do pink-tinted pasta. He doesn’t remember what they used as dye, but they got a frantic call from a restaurant that the ravioli was dissolving when put in water. “We got a call that they were having a St. Valentine’s Day Massacre,” he says. “Now we do a tinted pasta for Valentine’s Day with dehydrated beets.”

Deno’s of Highland Park

Well-heeled: Jimmy Velis (left) was born into the family business; Harry Yianitsas married in. “I’m the dreaded in-law,” Yianitsas jokes.
It may seem like Deno’s has always been in Highland Park Village, but Angelina and Deno Velis’ shoe-repair business actually got its start on Lovers Lane in 1960. A second store in Highland Park Village followed, originally located on the opposite side of the building from where they are now; a fire in the 1970s damaged the structure, forcing a move. Couples Vickie and Jimmy Velis (Jimmy is the Velis’ son) and Popy and Harry Yianitsas (Popy is their daughter) now run things, and Deno’s still repairs, refurbishes, and upgrades shoes. “If it’s leather, people show up to see if we can fix it,” Harry Yianitsas says. “As long as it’s not still moving, we’ll look at it.” One woman came in with two pairs of $3,000 sandals, wanting to combine the tops of one pair with the bottoms of the other. They did it. The boutique owner where she’d bought the shoes was furious. He was so sure it couldn’t be done that he’d promised her one free pair if Deno’s could pull it off.

Vera’s Bakery

Hot Buns: Laura Garcia has worked at this family-owned bakeryin Oak Cliff for eight years.
Alfonso Vera worked as a baker for Neiman Marcus for years before he and his wife, Julia, opened Vera’s Bakery on West Davis, in Oak Cliff, in 1995. Naomi Vera Chavarria, one of the three Vera daughters who works in the shop, credits the bakery’s longevity to her father’s hard work. “This business has always been above everything else,” she says. Neighbors stop in daily for the traditional Mexican pan dulce (sweet bread), but the daughters have ensured that the bakery stays up on modern trends. When Starbucks’ unicorn Frappuccinos debuted, Vera’s responded with unicorn conchas, topping the whipped cream-filled sweet breads with colored sprinkles.

Neon of Dallas

Making Light: Neon has been increasingly replaced by LED lighting, buts its scarcity has turned into an asset, making Brian Hensley’s handcrafted signs into collector’s items.
Brian Hensley’s father has owned Frosty’s Sign Service in Midlothian since 1963. “I started working with my dad when I was 9, and I’m 48 now,” Hensley says. “We would go to neon shops, and, as we were waiting, I’d go in the back and start melting glass or whatever, and I gradually fell in love with the business that way.” He founded Neon of Dallas in 1991, and his five employees now make about 800 neon signs a year. If you love that original Pegasus sign atop the Magnolia Building in downtown, you can get a variety of replicas, running $1,500 to $5,800. Scratch the heads of resident pooches Jake and Bonnie while you decide what to write in lights.
For some, it doesn’t matter what you get as much as where it came from. And for those, we toured the upscale floors of Forty Five Ten to find the best, most affordable gifts the extravagant store has to offer. Cheap is relative term, of course (thus the “ish”). But when a store’s wares include a $60,000 crystal chandelier, a designer card case for under $300 doesn’t seem so excessive. As you’ll notice, Forty Five Ten doesn’t sell many of their giftable items online, and anyway, shopping the downtown store in person is quite the experience. Our advice for penny pinchers: grab the most inexpensive glass of Prosecco available, start in the gift-y area under the stairs, then work your way up to the Assouline room where you’ll find tons of coffee table books under $100. Here, our list of little luxuries to look out for on the way, with a few extreme indulgences sprinkled in.
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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

John Derian x Kid Made Modern Decoupage Pegasus PlaternrnTodd Oldham’s pop art style (and love for Big D) meets Derian’s famous decoupage process. $62

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Annie Costello Brown Matisse EarringsrnrnBetween the door knocker size and cerulean blue color (the result of oxidizing brass) it’s like artwork for her ears. $207

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Pinel Pinel Arcade TrunkrnrnAs if owning an arcade game weren’t extraordinary enough, try 60 retro games (Pac-man, et al.) in one calfskin-sided, chrome-trimmed trunk. $35,000

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Kid Made Modern House and Robot Craft KitsrnrnCuter than any of the plastic flotsam found in big-box stores, plus these allow kids to get creative. (You’ll find a huge stock of Kid Made Modern here, including colorful duct tape galore.) $40/$30

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courtesy of vendor

Kid Made Modern Giant Crazy CrayonrnrnLarge objects are easier for small hands to control. And for little ones, giant anything is super awesome. $8

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Mario Luca Giusti White and Clear GobletrnrnFor the couple that hosts boozy dinner parties: acrylic goblets that appear to be crystal. $24

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Mario Luca Giusti Milly TumblerrnrnAgain, unbreakable acrylic is key. Curate a collection from rows of tumblers in an array of colors and designs, and give to the young family that uses old Dickey’s cups at the kitchen table. $34

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Veuve Clicquot Coffee Table Book rnrnA beautiful history of the ages-old Champagne house. Bottle of bubbly not included (but might make for a nice addition). $85

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Dita Von Teese Scandalwood CandlernrnConsult with a cardiologist before giving to Grandpa—as the candle burns hotter, Dita’s dress disappears, revealing her famously curvy figure beneath. $68

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Le Labo Hand Soap, Hand Lotion, and Lip BalmrnrnFragrances blended onsite start from $180, but the plant-based bath goods are a budget-friendly way to get a dash of the cult favorite. $22/$32/$14

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courtesy of vendor

Cult Gaia Beach ToternrnThe ark bag is a fashion blogger favorite; this portfolio size makes an even bigger statement. $228

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Betony Vernon Feather RingrnrnForm meets function when a piece of jewelry doubles as a duster. Or a nose tickler. The possibilities are endless. $750

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Lalique Black Crystal MousernrnAntique collectors keep eyes peeled for pieces by the iconic French glassmaker. Forty Five Ten carries some modern, more curious items such as a $1,650 black crystal gorilla and this teeny weeny mouse. $99

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Richard Brendon Reflect Gold Teacup and SaucerrnrnThe metallic teacup was designed to reflect the pretty design of the vintage saucer it sits on. $285

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Ware of the Dog Felted BananarnrnFur parents won’t mind a toy this cute lying around their pad. Knowing that it’s made with natural materials by craftswomen in Nepal is the cherry on top. $14

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Ware of the Dog Neon Green CollarrnrnNo more losing Mr. Barksdale among the dog park masses. $48

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

The Queen’s People Oversized BookrnrnBetween The Crown on Netflix and the Harry-Meghan nuptials, royals are back in a big way. Here’s a gigantic tome (weighing in at nearly 18 pounds) for true devotees of Her Majesty. $845

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

By Terry Metallic Eyeshadow Stick SetrnrnJust in time for New Year’s: a collection of shimmery eye colors that stay put well past midnight. $95

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Nannette de Gaspé Face MaskrnrnSure, masks are sold for a few dollars these days, but she can indulge in this high-end waterless version three times—and the packaging is stunning. $120

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Nude Envie Lip LinerrnrnThe trench coat of nude liners; it goes great with everything. $26

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

BIDKhome Medium HourglassrnrnUnexpected, substantial (it’s a foot tall), and actually useful: it will remind dad to get up from his desk every couple hours. $75

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Berluti Lighter SleevernrnConsidering the luxury brand’s shoes knock around $2,000 (and that’s on the low end), even something as unnecessary as a lighter holder feels like a steal. $200

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courtesy of vendor

Celine Card CasernrnA simple treat for real label lovers. $280

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Maria La Rosa Metallic Blue SocksrnrnSocks with sandals are a thing again. A sparkly pair is a good way to get into the trend. $35

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courtesy of Forty Five Ten

Bell’Invito Pucker Card SetrnrnBespoke cards with saucy embossing might be the only way to get millennials to stray from text messages. Comes in a nice lizard-patterned box. $60

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courtesy of vendor

Eric Buterbaugh Scented CoqrnrnDiffusers are all too common. No one will expect to receive a jewelry-adorned stuffed rooster that comes with a fragrance to spray on the feathers. P.S. All coqs died of natural causes. P.P.S. People really buy these—Forty Five Ten has already sold two. $3,800

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