Thursday, May 23, 2024 May 23, 2024
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Vidorra Has Energy in Spades, but its Menu Doesn’t Quite Deliver

The new Deep Ellum spot features a vibrant cocktail menu and promises authenticity.
Kevin Marple

Inside Vidorra, the 10,000-square-foot restaurant that’s one of the newest additions to Deep Ellum, multicolored tiles line the floor and crawl up the base of a sprawling concrete bar. Diners perched at wooden high-top tables sip vibrant cocktails garnished with fresh fruit. The scene is animated. The concept from Milkshake Concepts, the hospitality group behind Citizen and Stirr, is bustling with a party-seeking crowd on the weekends. While there’s ample bar seats and high-top tables, the patio is the place to be; slump into a plush, queso-colored sofa surrounded by plants and dangling Edison bulbs.

As a waiter rattles off recommendations, he slides a basket of chips across the table along with two ramekins teeming with salsa. One is red with a satisfying blend of fire-roasted tomatoes, onion, garlic, and a splash of lime; the other is green and creamy, with tomatillos, jalapeños, and cotija cheese. The chips, made from tortillas from La Mexicana Tortilla Factory, are a tad over-dusted with a sodium-packed “secret seasoning,” but they are sturdy enough to withstand the sauces.

Signature cocktails lean toward the sweet side. There’s the A Night In Tulum, which mixes together Casamigos tequila, mezcal, and passionfruit juice. The Guadalajaran, is a syrupy blend of Cazadores reposado tequila, mezcal, pineapple juice, citrus, and Squirt. Stick with a simple house margarita, a refreshing mix of Lunazul Blanco Tequila, fresh lemon and lime juice, simple syrup, and a splash of orange juice. Or the Chile Topo: mezcal and lime juice mixed into a bottle of Topo Chico.

Don’t expect “authentic Mexican food” as the website promises. Pozole tastes as if somebody squeezed 40 Taco Bell hot sauce packets into a bowl and warmed it up, and the carne asada is dry and overly charred. But flaming trompo pastor fundido is entertaining. Mild Oaxaca cheese is topped with tender pork sliced from a trompo, fresh pineapple, and pico de gallo, and served in a molcajete that’s heated to 400 degrees.

Those looking for a proper meal may find themselves disappointed. While those seeking a buzz, and something in their stomachs before a night of revelry, may find exactly what they’re looking for.