Saturday, November 26, 2022 Nov 26, 2022
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Offal and Unusual Tacos

Kevin Marple
Not everyone is keen to venture off the familiar pork, beef, and chicken taco path. But those who do find surprising and delectable noshes as approachable as lengua (beef tongue), as intimidating as sesos (cow brains), or as rare as nana (cow uterus). Although offal cuts and other seemingly exotic bites usually fit into the “traditional” taco category, they’re separated here to give them their proper due. Give them a try. We’re betting you find something you like.

Revolver Taco Lounge

Kermit in Bangkok

Revolver’s reputation for experimentation has conditioned taco lovers to expect surprises. There have been ostrich tacos. There have been snail-and-chorizo tacos. There have been fish roe tacos. But one of the best is the Kermit in Bangkok taco: plump frog legs cloaked in a spirited house-made red curry and garnished with a sprig of Thai basil.

Mi Lindo Oaxaca


Dabs of buttery, lime-amped guacamole are dotted with nutty roasted chapulines—grasshoppers—in a handmade corn tortilla that acts as the soft, edible conveyance for this treat of a taco at Mi Lindo Oaxaca, a 3-year-old restaurant specializing in the dishes of the Mexican state of the same name, including what is perhaps the best mole in Dallas.

Taqueria La Ventana


Taqueria La Ventana—a name taken from the original McKinney Avenue location’s window where customers give their orders—serves as a fine entry to a greater taco world. After ordering the approachable choice of pastor, go for the lengua. The beef tongue is mellow with notes of pot roast and a smooth texture that’s spiffed up with salsa verde.

Tacos La Banqueta Puro DF

Fried Tripe

If the idea of eating cut tubes of intestinal tract turns your stomach, try them fried. At La Banqueta, rings of tripe are crisped to the consistency of pork cracklings pulled off Carolina whole hog barbecue, with a flavor to match.



Taquero’s machitos tacos are a restrained bright spot in a sprawling menu of elaborate ingredient combinations meant to signal a chef-driven aesthetic. The small taco is filled with slightly funky tripe rings treading in a blazing vermilion chorizo sea. Although the two components might seem to make for a daunting pairing, they differ enough for a pleasant balance.