Thursday, March 28, 2024 Mar 28, 2024
46° F Dallas, TX
Advertisement
Publications

For Dallas Vegans, V-Eats Is Worth The Wait

The Trinity Groves restaurant is an adventure for the vegan and meat-eating alike.
By |
Image

The cuisine at Trinity Groves’ vibrant new vegan restaurant is more creative and ambitious than most, the focal points of its plates made in-house. Call it Vegan 2.0: creamy-centered tofu crisps, shaggy-crusted, with citrus-chile dipping sauce; mac and cheese bolstered from a savory base of puréed vegetables; flavor-bearing touches like house-smoked artichoke hearts. The kitchen is determined to approximate meat. The Salisbury steak is made with seitan, nicely seasoned and accompanied by a proper steak knife, mushroom-enriched white-wine gravy, and crispy onion rings—the star on a recent evening. Tortilla-crusted fried “chicken” is actually marinated and roasted breadfruit; it makes nice work of the dense, starchy, nourishing staple. The kitchen is interested in flavor as much as trompe l’oeil effects or feats of texture (spirulina and fermented quinoa and rice make the vegan blue cheese as convincing a show as you could hope for from an impostor). It doesn’t always work: poorly executed muddles of side vegetables shouldn’t be an over-reach. But V-Eats’ inventive and technically savvy fare is a good addition to the vegan palate—an adventure for the vegan and meat-eating alike and a mote in the eye of steak-city Dallas.

Related Articles

Image
Travel

Is Fort Worth Really ‘The New Austin’?

The Times of London tells us it's now the coolest city in Texas.
Image
Dallas 500

Meet the Dallas 500: Chakri Gottemukkala, o9 Solutions

The o9 solutions leader talks about garnering a $3.7 billion valuation, growing 10x over the next few years, and how the company is innovating.
Image
Local News

An Early Look at 2026 FIFA World Cup Logistics

The World Cup matches will be held in Arlington, but Dallas will be home to a great deal of team and fan experiences. We're getting an early look at what that will look like.
Advertisement