Restaurant Review

Restaurant Review: Burger Edge

A family tradition continues at this Far North Dallas spot.

James Donahoe has the burger business in his blood. He is the grandson of Jack Keller (Keller’s Drive-In), and his uncle is Jake Keller (Jake’s). Donahoe started cooking fries when he was 7, and he has operated both a Jake’s location and a Keller’s location. Burger Edge is his first attempt to go it alone. The interior is not much to look at, but the night I visited, a guitarist belting out songs by the Eagles and Tom Petty created an upbeat mood. The build-your-own burgers are one-third of a pound of juicy beef with a hickory-roasted garlic pepper seasoning. Instead of buttering the bread, Donahoe dips the buns in the sizzling burger juice on the griddle before toasting, a technique that adds another layer of beefy flavor. They offer toppings such as grilled onions and grilled jalapeños. Condiments such as spicy ketchup elevate fries lightly covered with garlic salt. Or you can add an order of fried pickles, bottle caps (fried jalapeños), or tater tots. A small selection of local craft beers grows larger by the week, but wine is limited to pre-portioned and packaged Copa Di Vino wines by the glass. If you’re a burger aficionado, this place is a must try.