Restaurant Review: Houston’s

A revisit to the Far North Dallas stalwart.

There used to be three Houston’s in Dallas. One closed, another changed names. Now we have a Houston’s and a Hillstone’s. Hillstone Restaurant Group maintains they switched the name to maintain a unique niche for each brand. But most industry professionals hint the names were altered—and menus gently tweaked—to avoid a new FDA rule that, when it goes into effect in December, will require chains with 20 or more outlets to list nutritional information. Frankly, I don’t think calorie counts would keep many diners away. The quality of food and great service have made Houston’s the industry standard. The upscale meat-and-potatoes menu is short but offers something for everyone. The veggie burger has a black bean, beet, and brown-rice base with sweet soy glaze. Salads range from a classic Caesar to phenomenal Thai-seasoned steak strips tossed with avocado and pancit noodles. Rotisserie chicken has a light apricot glaze and a side of comforting couscous. There’s usually a wait after 6 pm, but don’t be deterred. Head to the bar, where the wines by the glass are solid pours, and an order of spinach and artichoke dip will help you pass the time.

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