The first thing I noticed when stepping into Dunston’s was the warm, inviting smell of burning mesquite wood. The Lovers Lane location has been grilling steaks over an open-pit mesquite grill since 1969. The second thing that grabbed my attention was the kitschy surroundings: a wood-paneled area covered with framed family photos and memorabilia. As I made my way to the back dining room, I passed the salad bar, which was surrounded by children and adults scooping salad toppings from the buffet. A seasoned waitress with a great sense of humor pulled a pen from her apron and took our order. The chicken-fried steak came quick and was smothered in peppery white gravy, but the crispy exterior slid off as I cut into the thin piece of beef. The 10-ounce prime rib, cooked to order medium rare, was smoky and a bargain at $25, which includes two sides. (They will also hand-cut a larger size.) The thick slab of beef was tender and sliced effortlessly. If you prefer a petite steak, the chalkboard usually offers a 6-ounce bacon-wrapped tenderloin. The wine list is serviceable, and the seasonal vegetables, such as collard greens and butter beans and ham, are divine. Dinner in the back room at Dunston’s is a Dallas must-do. You never know which boldface names will be at the table next to you.