Restaurant Review: One90

Parts of town without good grocery stores are called “food deserts.” Until recently, in the area of East Dallas where I live, there was a barbecue desert. Then came One90. Three guys who met more than a decade ago at Bryan Adams High School opened their storefront this summer after backyard meat-smoking sessions led to talk about going into business together. They were quickly overwhelmed. Moist brisket with a perfectly pink smoke ring that I enjoyed on a first visit turned dry and disappointing on a subsequent stop-in, as they struggled to keep up with demand. But by early fall, the One90 guys had regained their fine form. I brought a meat smorgasbord to a recent dinner party, and my hosts looked at me funny. One90 vacuum-packs all its protein. Store the plastic bags in the fridge for two to three months if you like. Then drop them in boiling water. Those funny looks turned to groans of delight as we ate country sausage, brisket, chicken breast, pork spare ribs, and salmon, all smoked to perfection over oak and pecan, seasoned with only kosher salt and cracked black pepper. One90 does have a narrow counter where you can sit and eat a sandwich. Do that if you must. But don’t leave this barbecue oasis without a few pounds of meat to take home.