Monday, September 26, 2022 Sep 26, 2022
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Food and Drink

Restaurant Review: Luck

Come for the meat and the beer and the view.
By Tim Rogers |
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LUCK serves a couple of salads. One of them has blueberries and butternut squash atop mixed greens with candied pecans and goat cheese. Maybe it’s good. I wouldn’t know. Ditto the wine selection. No idea. Because LUCK is really about two things: meat and beer. Start with the bierocks, golf-ball-size pastries stuffed with ground beef and cheese. Have fun trying to decide which of the 40 beers on tap—each from a brewery within a 75-mile radius—you’ll try first. Ask for a taster, if you’re one of those look-before-you-leap types. The staff is accommodating and knows its stuff. If you’re not afraid of a little tongue, order the torta de lengua. The meat is tender, the pickled red onions pair perfectly, and the habanero pumpkin-seed spread delivers a playful punch. You’ll also do fine with the grass-fed burger or the pastrami sandwich (cured and smoked in house). All sandwiches come with thick house-made potato chips. There’s also meatloaf and Windy Meadows chicken and shrimp and grits. And 39 more beers to pick from for that second pint. When the weather is nice, you’d be a fool not to sit on the fine patio and take in the view of the Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge and downtown in the distance. Go ahead. Order that third pint. Give your meat some time to settle.

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