Like a good hostess, Sissy’s betrays little of the stress (a lawsuit, a new chef) it has endured in the past year. On a rare clear evening in May, the bar area and the patio hummed. A sizable cocktail menu appeared, with an entire section devoted to punches; my blackberry moonshine concoction was sweet and easy to drink. A starter of purple hull pea cakes intrigued us among heavier options like curry deviled eggs and pickled shrimp. The loosely packed patties—a mix of onions, green and purple peas, and peppers—came apart easily, but I didn’t mind chasing around morsels to get the last bite. A nest of arugula and lemon aioli were a tangy touch. There are about as many specials as there are permanent menu items, but we stuck to basics: chicken-fried steak, fried chicken with whipped potatoes, biscuits and cornbread. The pressure-fried chicken was as juicy as ever. The enormous portion of steak was less of a home run. Though the perfectly spiced batter was delicious, there was too much of it. It overpowered the dense cut of meat inside. The fluffy biscuits, however, were a treat, and the idea of pairing such a greasy, finger-licking meal, upmarket though it might be, with a flute of Möet has yet to lose its charm. Too full for dessert? Order another glass and linger.