Mesa’s Lobster enchiladas

Restaurant Review: Mesa

A revisit to the Mexican spot on Jefferson Boulevard.

I opened the door, and a tall, welcoming waiter said, “Make yourself at home,” and led us to a cozy, paper-covered two-top. Flickering tea candles twinkled on tabletops inside, while the glow of the neon signage along Jefferson Boulevard slightly brightened the room. We started our meal with guacamole and tequila. The generous portion of light and fluffy guacamole arrived tasting fresher than most tableside varieties. The kitchen achieves the creamy texture by adding a touch of olive oil. A basic frozen margarita was too sweet, but the smoky and spicy margaritas we tried delivered playful kicks—one robust with a smoky mezcal bite, the other leaving heat lingering on the tongue. Owners/chefs/spouses Olga and Raul Reyes come from the Veracruz region of Mexico, and their specialty is Mexican coastal cuisine. The lobster enchiladas are outstanding. House-made corn tortillas are stuffed with Pacific lobster, blue crab, and julienned vegetables and served smothered in a bell pepper cream sauce. A traditional cochinita pibil was equally stellar. Slow-roasted pork floats in a pool of citrus juices spiced with annatto seed and garnished with arugula and peppers. Mesa’s signature dessert is orange flan, but we decided to drink our dessert and ended our meal with a tall glass of house-made cinnamon-, vanilla-, and rum-infused horchata.

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