Restaurant Review: Crossroads Diner

A revisit to the breakfast-and-lunch joint.

The popularity of Crossroads, Carl Strelecki and former fine-dining chef Tom Fleming’s breakfast-and-lunch-only establishment, had two friendly servers tag-teaming our table on a busy Sunday morning, but the experience was still seamless. Specials included a country braised pork shank, but from-scratch pancakes as big as the moon were my destiny. One of our servers explained the process of making the batter in small batches, which keeps the pancakes light. Fresh blueberries added some sweetness to the golden stack of three, as did the maple syrup, another homemade touch. My friend’s breakfast skillet, stuffed with thick hunks of bacon, potato, and onions, oozed with white cheddar.  “This is giving me life,” she said, happily. Pliable flour tortillas set off the dish’s hearty simplicity, though the salsa verde on the menu turned out to be a mild roja. A side of grits from Homestead Heritage in Waco came topped with more of that white cheddar. The flavor was excellent, but the texture a bit runnier than I liked. A tiny quibble. As long as you’re prepared to wait—anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour—the rib-sticking breakfasts at Crossroads will give you the strength to go on with the rest of your day. Or at least get you to the location of your afternoon nap.

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