Shawarma half-chicken with green chile pesto and cucumber salad

Restaurant Review: Carso Mediterranean Grill

Chef Anthony Bombaci's food should lure you to Plano.

It took some digging, but we uncovered one of Plano’s most delicious restaurants. “I had no idea this was even back here,” my suburb-dwelling companion said as we drove up to the Hilton Granite Park, buried behind a Stonehenge-like circle of office towers. But once seated inside Carso, we began to wonder if it was worth all the trouble. While it was a handsome restaurant, with its cut-stone columns and sparkling chandeliers, the lack of customers and a line of abandoned breakfast buffet trays in the corner screamed “hotel restaurant.” Still, the lure of Anthony Bombaci—the talented chef who had once wowed diners at the dearly departed Nana at the Hilton Anatole—was strong. He didn’t disappoint. An airy lemon yogurt lifted common salmon to new heights. The accompanying chickpea salad added a tart, acidic bite. The word “succulent” gets tossed around far too often, but it’s the only way to describe Bombaci’s lamb shank. Paired with figs, almonds, and basil, it had our table swooning. Even the pizzas were memorable, the table favorite being the one topped with chorizo, Manchego cheese, and spicy Basque peppers. After the meal, we decided that Carso being a bit hidden might not be such a bad thing. We get to keep its deliciousness to ourselves.

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