Thursday, May 23, 2024 May 23, 2024
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Restaurant Review: Canary by Gorji

Find Mediterranean cuisine with a slight Texas accent in North Dallas.
photography by Kevin Marple

This small, intimate restaurant in North Dallas is one of the most underrated in town. Chef Mansour Gorji’s brand of mostly-Mediterranean-with-a-touch-of-Texas-style food is distinctively different from other global menus. When Gorji isn’t at a market buying fresh ingredients, he is in his kitchen creating unique dishes or out front visiting with customers. He was the first Dallas chef to champion the pomegranate, which he uses as a garnish on steaks and in sauces. Gorji’s talent as a Mediterranean chef really shines in the appetizer selections, where you can choose from a mezze platter filled with tzatziki, tabbouleh, hummus, and dolmades. Not in the mood for Mediterranean? After you’ve had your head examined, order a Texas grass-fed rib-eye. Chef Gorji finishes his steaks with a pomegranate garnish and a side of gnocchi in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce. Recently, I devoured a celery root and carrot salad spiked with mint that was so fresh it tasted like it was just plucked from the garden. A filleted rainbow trout was served with just a touch of white wine and lemon sauce and topped with tart barberries and capers. This dish, like most of Gorji’s food, is clean and naturally delicious. The low lights, soft but vibrant music, and attentive service work together to produce a calm and sexy atmosphere. You’ll meet Gorji. He makes several visits to each table, and his good-natured laugh is highly infectious. I guarantee that you will leave feeling happy.

For more information about Canary by Gorji, visit our restaurant guide.