When it comes to friendly neighborhood restaurants, red-sauce Italian seems to be the go-to cuisine. Covino’s has been serving its Plano neighbors since 1990, and on the weekends, the place is jammed with families waiting patiently for solid pizza, calzones, and hearty pasta dishes served by sweet-natured local high-schoolers. The Abruzzi bread—perfect flour-dusted pizza dough stuffed with sausage, pepperoni, provolone, and fresh spinach and then sliced—is worth that weekend wait. It also solves that tricky, “Should I have pasta or pizza?” dilemma, because you can get your pizza in your appetizer and pasta in your main dish. We chose the special for the night: chicken agnolloti, an oversized, semicircular ravioli stuffed with smoked chicken and ricotta and smothered with basil cream sauce. (It came with the Abruzzi bread for dipping, too.) Veal Parmigiana was pounded extra thin and fried extra crispy—too crisp to appreciate the flavor of the meat. However, we were happily obliged when we asked for fettuccini Alfredo in place of the side of spaghetti, and our choice was a good one. Thick, creamy, pepper-spiked Alfredo clung desperately to every last noodle. Because we had some wine left in our bottle—here you can BYO—we decided to polish it off with a towering slice of plain cheesecake.
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