Wednesday, January 26, 2022 Jan 26, 2022
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Food and Drink

Review: Mr. Wok

Dallas diners will find plenty of familiar fare here, as well as some interesting and delicious signature dishes made with quality ingredients.
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Ton chung. photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

The menu at Mr. Wok touches on cuisine from across Asia, drawing most heavily from China. American diners will find plenty of familiar territory here (i.e., authenticity does not seem to be a dominant focus), as well as some interesting and delicious signature dishes. One such specialty, wok-seared edamame, riffs on the izakaya standby of boiled and salted soybeans. Here it’s tossed in a hot wok, which lends unexpected savory flavors. Another, mango shrimp, pairs cubes of sweet fresh mango with lightly battered and fried shrimp, bound together by a lightly sweet and creamy sauce. The dishes we tried exhibited quality ingredients—perhaps most notably hasai tsuke, which incorporated fresh ramen imported from Japan. The noodles were texturally on target, much more firm and chewy than commonly found in Dallas, and were complimented by shreds of pork and a contrasting light crunch from pickled mustard leaves (an uncommon ingredient in American Chinese restaurants). Although the broth was too salty, this dish was otherwise a hit. Cha han fried rice featured superior grade, short-grain Japanese rice, peas, egg, and roast pork, topped with pickled ginger and served with a broth of soy-spiked dashi (a light fish stock) that enhanced the flavor with a savory umami kick. Surprises like this condiment, an unusual accompaniment for fried rice, and the atypical edamame preparation are why I’ll be visiting Mr. Wok again.

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