Fried calamari “corn dog.” photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

Review: Loft 610

Located in an antiseptic business park that hugs Highway 121, this North Plano restaurant masters the art of deception. Though the rush of nearby traffic and a cold concrete exterior offer little promise, Loft 610’s interior—designed by Dallas-based Zero 3—exudes an urban-cool vibe that could go toe to toe with trendier downtown Dallas restaurants. In fact, there’s much to love at owner Brian Twomey’s new suburban hot spot. The large handsome space (9,000 square feet) sports many loft-like details: exposed brick, warm wood accents, and black leather. It feels stylish yet cozy and is an urbane option to the flashier family-friendly restaurants across the highway. Likewise, executive chef Craig Latshaw and chef de cuisine Marcos Rodriguez have created a sophisticated menu that appeals to adult palates. The food is both comfortable and clever. Take, for instance, Latshaw’s spin on the tired calamari appetizer. He skewers the meat, dips it in cornmeal batter, fries it, and creates a delicious “corn dog.” Entrees run the gamut from savory sage-brined pork tenderloin with boysenberry and molasses fig glaze to a hearty hanger steak with a Shiner Bock/Malbec reduction. Vegetarians will enjoy the arancini—lemon risotto cakes—served with oven-roasted chanterelles and thyme-cured tomatoes. The only misstep occurred with the plantain pecan-crusted scallops. The poor bivalves were overcooked and the coating perhaps a bit too ambitious. Why not let the briny scallops simply shine on their own? Oh well. The banana mousse parfait with its spicy plantains was sweet solace and a delicious way to end a sophisticated meal. Loft 610 might reside in the land of Happy Meals, but there’s nothing pedestrian about this suburban star.

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