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Review: Chicago Rick’s Pizza

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photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

Whatever your feelings on Chicago-style pizza (the right answer: bleh), it has its fans, a vocal, nostalgic crew constantly pining for their beloved deep-dish pies.

When Chicago Rick’s opened in late 2002, that’s what it served, as crafted by Chicago native Rick Kerner and his wife Jennifer. They sold the place a couple of years ago—data you may not get from the folks who run it now. On one visit, an employee claimed Kerner still owned it but no longer came in; later, on the phone, the fellow said it was owned by a man named Sam, no last name.

Nobody says you have to be a Windy City native to make Chicago-style pizza. And Kerner clearly taught the current regime his techniques. A 12-inch deep-dish pizza with Italian sausage, mushrooms, and peppers was more than adequate, with its high-rimmed crisp crust and plentiful toppings. So was the thin-crust pizza topped with chicken and olives. The Chicago-style hot dog is topped with pickles and peppers.

It seems clear that the management wants customers to think a Chicagoan still owns the place. The problem here is the deception. Well, that and the fact that the kitchen and dining room were filthy; it looked like maybe the place hadn’t been cleaned since the Kerners left.

Get contact information for Chicago Rick’s Pizza.

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