Crème brûlée. photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

Review: Arthur’s

If your entire dining life is spent following what’s new, you may not have had the excuse to visit Arthur’s, and that would be a very sad thing.

This elegant continental restaurant first opened in 1948, making it the oldest restaurant in Dallas. Mohsen Heidari bought it from founder Arthur Bates in 1988, then moved into the current space—a free-standing building previously occupied by Mel Hollen’s. The interior is splendid, with massively high ceilings, arches, and glorious chandeliers. An aquarium along the bar seems incongruous, even whimsical.

The menu has a classic, old-school feeling, but with au courant updates. Crab cakes, for example, combined crab meat with decadent chunks of lobster. A Mediterranean salad felt like a combination of Greek and cobb, with red onion, chopped tomato, olives, and feta cheese cordoned off into separate piles for you to toss and mix at will. Crème brûlée got a welcome twist with lemon grass that cut the richness of the custard perfectly.

Whether seafood Newburg, filet au poivre, or duck breast with duck confit, all entrées come with their own sides.

Heidari also owns the venerable St. Martin’s Wine Bistro on Greenville Avenue; his older brother Al owns the esteemed Old Warsaw. There’s an attention to detail and quality here you’d be thrilled to find at the latest new place of the week.

Get contact information for Arthur’s.

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