Insalate di Mare photography by Kevin Hunter Marple

Review: Arcodoro & Pomodoro

These once-sister restaurants are more or less the same these days, but dinner here is still a thrill. This is hard to achieve in a town where restaurants come and go, and those that stay often don’t deliver quite like they used to. We wandered in late on a Saturday night to find a packed patio and a wait for a table inside and out, so we dined instead at the bar, where the bartender was happy to lay out a place mat and some silverware and treat us tenderly. A glass of Prosecco was a fizzy and fun beginning to an exciting meal. We kept it simple: gnocchi with pesto and scallop and shrimp with crispy fried leek. As I sit here and type I can still taste the gnocchi—perfect, with a slight chew, tossed in a classic pesto prepared in a mortar and pestle with Sardinian pecorino, garlic, basil, pine nuts, olive oil, and a bit of parsley. Toasted pine nuts added just the right crunch and brought out the nuttiness of the pesto. Scallops and shrimp, skillfully prepared, made a light yet satisfying meal, with a smattering of julienned vegetables lurking beneath the nest of crispy leeks. To finish, we selected a puff pastry, kind of like a sopapilla, filled with sweet cheese and drizzled with Sardinian honey, served with a teeny scoop of vanilla ice cream. A shot of limoncello later, we were (very happily) done.

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