Wednesday, April 17, 2024 Apr 17, 2024
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Review: City Cafe

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photograph by Kevin Hunter Marple

This cozy spot still charms and comforts you like an old boyfriend who calls when he’s back in town. This is no small accomplishment considering the ownership, chef, and menu all changed in March. Well, most of the menu. Some of our favorites, like the warm cabbage salad dotted with Gorgonzola, survived the breakup. When we pressed for details of the dish, new proprietor Karim Alaoui wouldn’t reveal the secret ingredients unless we were “very good.” Trying our best, we took most of Alaoui’s recommendations, including tender lamb chops topped with buttery bread crumbs that were delivered with the meat candy-apple red. Less interesting was another CC veteran, the lavender honey salmon, which seemed to be lacking in both lavender and honey taste. Chef Mario Flores offers an eclectic assortment of approachable dishes like a thinly sliced beet salad with goat cheese and arugula shavings that rotate monthly. Service, as always, was exceedingly friendly and attentive, and touches like mini Piper-Heidsieck bottles holding red roses, and twinkling votives gave the place a sleepy, romantic quality.

On our way out, Alaoui bent and kissed our hands—a true gentleman, unlike that dodgy ex.

Get contact information for City Cafe.

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