Matagorda County
NATURE CALLS: Just an hour and a half south of Houston Hobby airport is Matagorda County, 1,114 square miles of outdoor fun. Once overlooked by fishermen and adventurists who preferred Padre Island or Galveston, Mat County is rapidly becoming a play land along the Texas Coastal Prairie. The area is divided into forest lands, wetlands, prairie, and coastal lands that provide opportunities for on- and offshore fishing, hunting, scuba diving, bird-watching, beachcombing, and kayaking.
BIRDS ARE THE WORD: Since 1997, Matagorda County, which lies in the central flyway for migratory birds, has led all of North America in the annual Audubon Christmas Bird Count, an event where birders across the country count the number of species in a single day within a 15-mile radius of their location. In December 2006, 100 birders counted 232 species in one day. Each spring and fall, birds of all colors, sizes, and shapes pass through Mat County en route to their nesting grounds. In the spring, most of the songbirds passing through South Texas leave Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula in the early evening and fly 80 to 90 hours without stopping until they arrive in the wetlands and forested coast lands of South Texas.
NATURALLY TEXAS: Texas was the first state in the nation to create birding and wildlife viewing trails, and Texas Parks and Wildlife offers maps of The Great Texas Wildlife Trails (www.tpwd.state.tx.us). By establishing these trails, the state has provided an economic incentive for landowners and communities to conserve habitats that provide recreational opportunities for birders. Mat County has embraced birding as an important tourist attraction. Just ask James Arnold, owner of Day on the Bay Services (www.dayonthebayservices.com). “Seems like everybody coming down here now wants to see birds,” he says. “Call me. I’ll show ’em to ya.” He’ll not only show you roseate spoonbills, but he’ll also take you crabbing, shrimping, oystering, kayaking, dolphin watching, and fishing.
QUICK FIX: If time prevents you from spending a week tracking peregrine falcons, head to the 34-acre Birding Nature Center (www.mcbnc.org) and wander the nature trails through wetlands, woodlands, native prairies, and gardens. We spotted 30 species in two hours!
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| Delicious seafood stew. Photograph by Nancy Nichols |
STAY CLOSE: The activities in Mat County are spread out, but right in the middle is the Stanley-Fisher House Bed & Breakfast (107 St. Mary St. 979-863-2920; www.stanley-fisher.com), run by former Plano residents Rik and Peggy Stanley. The Stanleys bought the Samuel Rhoades Fisher House, built in 1832, and restored it to an elegant, warm place to lay your head after a long day on the bay.
SEE FOOD: Yes, you can oyster fish in East Matagorda Bay and harvest brown shrimp in the spring and white shrimp in the fall. You can even land a trophy trout or redfish. But the easiest way to taste the Texas Gulf is to eat at one of the local fish houses. Try The Outrigger (515 Commerce St. 361-972-1479; www.outriggerrestaurant.com) in Palacios, where flounder, shrimp, and oysters are delivered by local fishermen. The seafood platter, a feast of shrimp, fish, crab rolls, scallops, oysters, and two sides, is only $18.95. You’ll need a kitty bag for sure. —Nancy Nichols
DON’T MISS
The Mad Island Marsh Preserve (361-972-3295; www.nature.org) is 7,048 acres of intertidal and freshwater wetlands, coastal prairie, cordgrass meadows, coastal brush habitat, and rice fields. It’s a great place to see sandhill cranes, shorebirds, wading birds, hawks and falcons, owls, and rails. If you’re lucky, you’ll also spy a Texas horned toad, bobcat, or wild pig.
Fredericksburg
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| Main Street is lined with upscale shops. Photograph by R.P. Washburne |
VELKOMIN!: Ah, Fredericksburg. The quintessentially quaint Hill Country town settled by German immigrants in 1846 is currently one of the hottest destinations in the country. But behind the touristy fudge shops and souvenir stores lies a small town that blends Texas hospitality with German heritage. Main Street is full of shops peddling arts and crafts, antiques, gifts, clothing, and jewelry, and the town throws major celebrations, such as Oktoberfest (www.oktoberfestinfbg.com) and Fredericksburg Food and Wine Fest (www.fbgfoodandwinefest.com). In between, there are plenty of activities to satisfy any traveler.
EATS & DRINKS: Visit the Old German Bakery (225 W. Main St. 830-997-9084), a casual storefront cafe featuring hearty Deutsche-Tex breakfasts, for German pancakes, schnitzels, and strudels. Dine at Cuvee Wine Market and Bistro (342 W. Main St. 830-990-1600) for gourmet cuisine and an extensive wine list from the wineries close to Fredericksburg. Beer and brats your thing? Head to Fredericksburg Brewing Company (245 E. Main St. 830-997-1646), the oldest brew pub in Texas. Belly up to the bar and order a sampler of beer. (Travelers hint: there are no open-container restrictions in Fredericksburg, so you can take your beer or wine with you as you shop.) Overserved? Locals head to Hilda’s (149 FM 2093. 830-997-6105) for the best hangover cure in town—breakfast burritos rolled in homemade tortillas.
BED, BREAKFAST, & BEYOND: Just a short walk from the crowds downtown you’ll find peace and serenity at the Hoffman Haus (608 E. Creek St. 800-899-1672; www.hoffmanhaus.com), a pet-friendly bed-and-breakfast restored to reflect the early to late 19th century. Once you enter the garden gate, the Main Street scene disappears, and you are surrounded by 2.5 acres of native Texas gardens. There are 14 rooms at the inn, each with distinctive charm. Two of the suites are in the Basse House, a German stone farmhouse built in 1850. The master has a grand four-poster, king-size bed; bathroom with Jacuzzi tub; and the original handcrafted stone fireplace. The second bedroom has a king-size iron bed, fireplace, and a bathroom with an antique claw-foot tub. A sound sleep is guaranteed: the walls are 16 inches thick, and the beds are covered with featherbeds and cotton linens. No matter how late you rise, you’ll find a breakfast basket of gourmet goodies, such as homemade spinach Florentine and blueberry scones, waiting at your doorstep.
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| Leslie Washburne and Sam on the steps of the Natural Palate Cooking School. Photograph by R.P. Washburne |
GOURMET GETAWAY: The Hoffman House also runs The Natural Palate Cooking School, where chef-owner Leslie Washburne conducts small, hands-on classes that emphasize whole, organic foods. The school, located just outside the city limits, takes place in The Grove House, a restored, four-square farmhouse surrounded by hundreds of 100-year-old oak trees. Beneath the original pressed-tin ceilings, Washburne teaches her simple approach to cooking. “Cooking healthy foods has a bad rap,” she says. “It doesn’t have to take a lot of time or taste bad. I understand that people have hectic lives, and I like them to leave here armed with healthy, easy, and tasty recipes—and, more important, a relaxed state of mind.” In her recipes, she substitutes olive oil, canola oil, and sesame oil for butter, layers flavors, and maximizes nutrients. After class, retire to the front porch that overlooks Washburne’s herb garden, sip a local wine, and watch the sun set over the hills. It doesn’t get much healthier than that. —N.N.
DON’T MISS
Take a trip back in time and tour the rescued, one-room rural schoolhouses around Fredericksburg. The Gillespie County Country Schools Trail (www.historicschools.org) links 16 historic country schools and the Vereinskirche, the replica of the first school in Gillespie County. This trail is the first of its kind in Texas.
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| Vistas are stunning at Palo Duro Canyon. Photograph by Brad Eakin |
Palo Duro Canyon
BIG SKY: Driving through the Panhandle Plains near the small town of Canyon, you can’t help but be struck by the sheer expansiveness of the prairies. There is a beauty in the flatness, the way the grasses roll to meet the sky on the horizon, an occasional tree or windmill providing a sense of scale. It’s no wonder that these plains attracted the attention of famed artist Georgia O’Keeffe, who immortalized them in her paintings. Keep driving along Highway 217 and soon the ground will open wide, and you’ll see an expansiveness of a different kind: Palo Duro Canyon, with its gentle slopes and staggering drops, the work of relentless weathering of the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River. With widths of up to 20 miles, a length of nearly 120 miles, and depths of up to 800 feet, it’s second only to the Grand Canyon in size. Not surprisingly, the bands of rust, salmon, mustard, chocolate—too many colors to name, really—also inspired O’Keeffe. Those layers of rock represent four geologic periods, spanning more than 240 million years, and humans have inhabited the canyon for some 12,000 years, from mammoth-hunting nomadic tribes to Apache, Comanche, and Kiowa Indians. It serves to remind us of our short time on this earth and the wonder of nature.
FRIENDLY DIGS: Opened in 1934, Palo Duro Canyon State Park (www.palodurocanyon.com) comprises 18,438 acres of the northernmost portion of the canyon and provides visitors with camp sites, cabin rentals, RV hookups, hiking and biking trails, on-site horse rentals, and picnic tables and grills. If camping is your thing, you’re set. But we prefer a daylight or twilight cruise through the park to shoot some fantastic photographs, then returning to our comfy and affordable ($85-$139) accommodations at Hudspeth House Bed and Breakfast (1905 Fourth Ave. 806-655-9800; www.hudspethinn.com), a historic, three-story Victorian house run by Connie and John Okill, who have named the rooms after their children. We loved the Danielle, with its four-poster bed and playful animal prints. Breakfast, which could be eggs baked with ham and cheese or decadent baked French toast, is served in the dining room, replete with fine china and linens. You’ll love lingering over coffee with fellow guests and Englishman John, who never thought he’d end up in the Panhandle of Texas. Need a restaurant recommendation? John will send you to Feldman’s Wrong Way Diner (1701 Fifth Ave. 806-655-2700. www.feldmansdiner.com), a festive joint just off the main square, where locals feast on chicken-fried steak and surprisingly good beef tips and grilled catfish. Grab a souvenir t-shirt on your way out.
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| WEST TEXAS WONDERS: (left to right) Chicken-fried steak is the thing to get at Feldman’s; horses are friendly near the canyon rim; take a tour with Hody of Elkins Ranch, who knows the canyon like no other. Photograph by Brad Eakin |
TERRIFIC TOUR: You can certainly explore the canyon on your own, but we called Elkins Ranch (806-488-2100; www.theelkinsranch.com) and signed up for a guided jeep tours. We had the good fortune of roughing it with Hody, an Indian trapped in a long and lean cowboy’s body, who knows this land like no other: he’s lived in the canyon in a tepee on and off for years. He’s explored parts of Palo Duro where no man has treaded for decades, and while he’s full of interesting tales, there are some memories he prefers to keep to himself. Though the jeep is open-air, the drive is safe and slow, and if you want to explore it all, from rim to floor, choose the two and a half hour Spirit of Palo Duro tour. Along the way Hody will make several stops for visitors who want to take pictures—and make their own memories of this magical place. —Jennifer Chininis
DON’T MISS
Those bands of colored rocks and towering canyon walls provide a spectacular backdrop for the annual summer musical Texas (806-655-2181), a lively production about the settling of the Texas Panhandle during the 1880s, presented by the Texas Panhandle Heritage Foundation.
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| SOUTH CONGRESS SCENE: Factory People combines art, music, and fasion. Photograph by Brad Eakin |
Austin
FUNKY TOWN: You’ve probably seen the t-shirts, coffee mugs, and bumper stickers asking the world to “keep Austin weird,” and the Hotel San Jose (1316 S. Congress Ave. 512-444-7322; www.sanjosehotel.com) is one of the reasons why, no matter how chic and gentrified Austin becomes, it will always remain the coolest city in Texas. South Congress Avenue is a hip and happening district of funky boutiques, restaurants, and nightclubs, and the San Jose is its centerpiece. This renovated 1930s motor court is the labor of love of Liz Lambert, who rescued the property in the mid-1990s from its rather sordid (read: hookers and junkies) residents. The result is a serene, modern space, featuring 40 rooms and suites with polished concrete floors and sparse furnishings, including vintage Eames chairs, cowhide and sisal rugs, Indian textiles, and beds and side tables made of rescued native pine. The outdoor spaces attract lingerers who enjoy cocktails in the courtyard lounge, surrounded by Zen-like slatted cedar walls. The best part? You can walk anywhere you want to go. So park your car in the adjacent lot and leave it there until you’re ready to brave I-35 and head home.
LET’S EAT: The San Jose does do breakfast, such as house-smoked salmon on baguette with cream cheese, red onion, and capers, served in tragically hip bento boxes. But in case you forget to place your order the night before, there’s onsite coffee shop Jo’s (1300 S. Congress Ave. 512-444-3800) in the hotel parking lot, where you can sate that craving for lattes and scones. Just down the block is El Sol y La Luna (1224 S. Congress Ave. 512-444-7770; www.elsolylalunaaustin.com), where breakfast is served all day. Try the huevos motulenos, two over-easy eggs served over corn tortilla and black beans. If it’s lunchtime already, the Oaxacan tamale plate or grilled catfish enchiladas will do you right. Another culinary delight is Enoteca Vespaio (1610 S. Congress Ave. 512-441-6100), where a magnificent assortment of panini (don’t skip the Niman Ranch pastrami with aged provolone, caramelized onions, and red chile pesto), pizzas, handmade pastas, and specialties such as pork scaloppine with prosciutto in lemon-butter sauce with sage await. Or load up on antipasti from the cold case, such as roasted beets with fennel and orange and eggplant caponata. Vegetarians can’t get enough of the many options at South Congress Cafe (1600 S. Congress Ave. 512-447-3905; www.southcongresscafe.com), but we love the outrageously rich crab enchiladas with mushroom cream sauce and can’t wait to go back for jalapeño-venison meatloaf and wild boar chile posole.
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| Get your Day of the Dead paraphernalia at Turquiose Door. Photograph by Brad Eakin |
SHOP TALK: There are plenty of places along South Congress to drop a wad of cash, and it’ll be a big wad at Uncommon Objects (1512 S. Congress Ave. 512-442-4000; www.uncommonobjects.com), which is overstocked with an unbelievable assortment of outrageously priced oddities, including vintage clothing and jewelry, kitchen wares, fur coats, old photographs, and an $82 “folky” Boston terrier. Local favorite Yard Dog (1510 S. Congress Ave. 512-912-1613; www.yarddog.com) carries folk and contemporary art by more than 20 artists, including embroidered portraits by Jenny Hart and Kevin House’s boxer banner paintings. Day-of-the-Dead collectors should drop by the Turquoise Door (1208 S. Congress Ave. 512-416-7100); those who cherish religious and folk art from Latin America and beyond must peruse Mi Casa Gallery (1700 S. Congress Ave. 512-707-9797; www.micasagallery.com). In the mood for something new? Hit Blackmail (1202 S. Congress Ave. 512-326-7670; www.blackmailboutique.com) for clothing, gifts, and jewelry, all in the color of night, plus a cool assortment of vintage cowboy boots. Two doors down, browse owner Rhonda Spogli’s creations for her at Creatures Boutique (1206 S. Congress Ave. 512-707-2500; www.creaturesboutique.com), which also carries a solid selection of shoes by Camper, Frye, Fly London, and Candies Vintage. Every customer is a rock star (or so says the web site) at Factory People (1325 S. Congress Ave. 888-322-8002; www.factorypeople.com), where you’ll find frocks by See by Chloé, Red Toenails, and Evil Genius. Do you have retail fatigue? Then tap your inner child at Monkey See Monkey Do (1712 S. Congress Ave. 512-444-5999; www.monkeyseeonline.com) for toys, games, cards, and other fantastic pop-culture items, including Felix the Cat clocks, pirate paraphernalia, and bacon bandages. On South Congress, you can’t help but have fun. —J.C.
 Photograph by Brad Eakin |
DON’T MISS
While you’re in the neighborhood, indulge in cocktails and live music at local favorite Continental Club (1315 S. Congress Ave. 512-441-0202; www.continentalclub.com), which turns 50 this year, where top-notch acts such as Stevie Ray Vaughan and the Butthole Surfers have rocked the stage. Upstairs is a cozier venue, The Gallery, with more music and a ping-pong table for some late-night competitive sporting.
Bandera
COW TOWN: The place is only about 10 miles from “downtown” Bandera, but when you drive 20 miles an hour down Hay Hollar Road (yes, that’s really the name), it feels like you’ve gone much farther away. And that’s just the beginning of the rustic feel of Rancho Cortez (872 Hay Hollar Rd. 830-796-9339; www.ranchocortez.com). Even more rustic are the one-room guest cabins and bunkhouses, which are simply long rooms lined with beds. It’s just like summer camp—only this time your parents didn’t drop you off. You arrived in your own luxury SUV.
ROOM AND BOARD: The cabins, complete with cowboy décor, offer a sleeping area with a combination of queen, king, and bunk beds, as well as a bathroom. And that’s pretty much it. Think simplicity, not luxury. But each cabin has a porch, which is all you need in the middle of nowhere. The views of the sunrises and sunsets from the Adirondack chairs on those porches are more than worth the price of admission. Besides, you’ll be spending more time outdoors than in, so a no-frills cabin is just the ticket.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS: Twice a day, visitors can go on trail rides through Hill Country State Natural Area, a 5,500-acre equestrian park that boasts more than 40 miles of trails, ranging from easy to advanced. Guests can also learn to round-up and rope cattle or even try their hand at barrel racing or pole bending. And none of the activities requires experience. “The majority of people who come here are beginners,” explains owner Larry Cortez. “We just match you up with the correct horse, and the horse will train you.” Most people come for the horses, naturally, but should they need a break (the guests or the horses), there’s plenty more to wile away the day, including hiking or mountain biking through the surrounding trails and hills, local “cowboy” shopping, bird watching, or soaking in the hot tub. Once the sun drops, Rancho Cortez has “nightlife” covered, too. Hayrides afford breathtaking views of the expansive night sky filled with so many stars that my 7-year-old asked if we were in outer space. After the hayride, guests are treated to a campfire complete with cowboy stories and roasted marshmallows.
GOOD GRUB: The food, like the lodging, is reminiscent of long, hot summers at Camp Louise. But the hearty fare is satisfying, and calorie counters will appreciate the healthier alternatives. The day hamburgers were served, for example, so were grilled chicken breasts topped with pineapple. A sign of the times, to be sure, the alternate food options are not the only health-conscious item on the menu at Rancho Cortez. Here you’ll also find fitness programs, ranging from two days to 30 days or longer, which add hiking, strength training, kickboxing, and water aerobics to the list of traditional, ranch-style equestrian activities.
SKY IS THE LIMIT: The phrase that best describes Rancho Cortez, though, is “wide-open spaces.” The five-hour drive from Dallas is worth it just to see the Milky Way stretching across the sky and your kids playing with things that don’t require batteries. For additional charges, guests can also opt for private riding lessons, river tubing, area day trips, or overnight camp-outs. They’ll make a cowboy out of you in no time. —JENNY BLOCK
DON’T MISS
If Bandera is the cowboy capital of the world, then the Old Spanish Trail Restaurant (Main St. 830-796-3836) in Bandera has to be cowboy headquarters. Hunker down in the John Wayne Room (or mount a saddle seat at the bar) and feast on all the chicken strips and cream gravy you can eat.
We’re sure you’ll swagger out in
true Duke style.
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| NO DEPARTURE REQUIRED: Fantastic desserts like this fruit galette are on the menu at the Epicurean Studio. Photograph by Elizabeth Lavin |
DFW Airport
FOODIE FUN: Now don’t laugh. We’re serious. We know that usually you go to the airport to get away from Dallas, preferably to the mountains or the beach. But the Grand Hyatt DFW (972-973-1234; www.granddfw.hyatt.com) has caught on to the Food Network do-it-yourself craze and is offering a unique 48-hour Epicurean Weekend Getaway for wannabe Rachael Rays. The two-package is a great way to get travelers who go through DFW to hang out in Dallas for a day or two, instead of rushing off to their final destination. But it gives the locals a chance to “escape,” too.
SUITE STAY: The 298-room hotel is a modern mix of Asian decor and sleek designs that are traveler friendly. The rooms, with Hyatt’s signature Grand Bed, 32-inch flat-screen TVs, large bathrooms, cubic furniture, and granite-top desks, are a comfy, quiet respite from the bustling and noisy airport. Enter the deluxe suite and find a personal note from chef de cuisine Eric Dreyer, along with a your very own chef jacket. But before you get to the cutting board, a five-course meal in the Grand Met awaits. Chef Dreyer meets foodies at their reserved table for a special introduction and explanation of dishes to come. As each course is served, he kneels down next to the table to explain the ingredients and wine pairing. Your education officially begins here.
CHEF SCHOOL: After a hearty breakfast of Belgian waffles and sticky bun French toast in bed via room service, button up your complimentary chef coat and head down to the Grand Epicurean Studio where chef Suttichai (Sutti) Sripolpa is ready for class. Each participant has his own kitchen space with cutting board, knife set, mixing bowls, and ingredients. Chef Sripolpa demonstrates each recipe as he cracks jokes and encourages students to try his special techniques. Each month the program has a different theme: European cuisine in April, Asian cuisine in June, and Mixology in July. This month, learn how to prepare a menu with items that are challenging to eat, such as lobster, French onion soup, and ribs, in the etiquette-themed class. Each class is taped, and guests receive an edited DVD of the class and recipes.
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| The Grand Hyatt DFW hopes to entertain visitors and locals. Photograph by Elizabeth Lavin |
GOOD GRAPES: After eating a hearty lunch in the Epicurean Studio, the hotel whisks you away to nearby Grapevine for an afternoon at La Buena Vida Vineyards (416 E. College St., Grapevine. 817-481-9463; www.labuenavida.com), where Camille McBee teaches you a little Wine 101. She’ll show you how to drink properly (that’s swirl first, then sniff), teach you the difference between aroma and bouquet, and suggest wines to serve with different foods. Don’t leave without tasting the 1985 Walnut Creek Cellars Port. The rich, nutty wine is a great complement to the raspberries on the dessert plate. —RYAN MENDENHALL
DON’T MISS
Use all of your new knowledge to create your own wine at Su Vino Winery (120 S. Main St., Ste. 40, Grapevine. 817-424-0123; www.suvinowinery.com). This friendly shop welcomes anyone—from know-it-all wine snobs to those who don’t know the difference between Champagne and Chardonnay. Plan ahead and bottle a wine for Thanksgiving or for a special gift. Go crazy creating your own private label.
