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Food and Drink

Review: Palomino

By Jennifer Chininis |

It’s safe to say the Crescent has it going on, food-wise, even if the restaurants there—Nobu, Bice, Palomino—are chains. They’re upscale all the way, and the quality of the food and service suits the address. A recent dinner at Palomino, which has a presence in 10 other cities besides Dallas, was solid with a bit of flash, starting with a brick oven-fired cheese fondue. The decadent blend of Cambozola (a creamy hybrid of Camembert and Gorgonzola) and Taleggio (a rich cow’s milk cheese from Italy) with a pistachio crust, served in a hot skillet with a shot of pear honey on the side, retained its creamy texture until we scooped out the last bit with that famous crisp, browned flatbread. Salads, too, excelled, as demonstrated by their fresh ingredients and the even hand with the dressing. Mixed field greens with chevre and toasted pumpkins seeds arrived with a sprinkling of olive oil; a heartier serving of blue cheese dressing—though not too much—clung to strips of romaine tossed with chopped bacon, tomato, and hazelnuts.

As for the mains, the Asiago-crusted trout was a generous portion with a crisped exterior of Asiago and Parmesan cheeses, and the fish was shockingly hot, proving the staff adept at delivering a plate the minute it shows up in the window. Rotisserie lamb, served sliced and rolled up, paired nicely with a dollop of mint aioli. A side of mascarpone polenta needed a smidge of salt, but a mild side is required with such a strongly flavored meat.

Desserts were the lone disappointments—an espresso mocha crème was too much and too firm in texture, and the chocolate torte was really that ubiquitous molten chocolate cake served with sliced strawberries, not the advertised strawberry compote. But the wine—Treana Red, a recommendation from our server—was a home run and lasted through dessert. No after-dinner drink required.

Get contact information for Palomino.

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