Like supermodels, “hot” restaurants face dismal prospects after their moment in the spotlight. Samba Room was once hot like that, part of a sizzling triangle that also included AquaKnox around the corner and Sipango across the street. Proving the point, both of those have bitten the dust.
But like Christy Turlington and her line of yoga wear, Samba Room’s found a second life. Now part of a small chain (other Sambas are in Houston, Denver, and Orlando), it hums along smoothly, consistently. That’s no knock. There’s nothing wrong with good, reliable food and friendly service.
Like Giselle Bundchen, the menu has a Latin flavor, slightly homogenized for American tastes. A dusting of peppery spices gave calamari the chutzpah to call itself “Peruvian,” which may have been a reach but in no way detracted from the appeal of the crisp fried squid, served with a chimichurri tartar sauce in place of humdrum marinara.
As with Sports Illustrated, the ocean gets showcased here, too. Seared scallops, tender and sweet, rested on a comforting bed of mashed boniato (sweet white potato) and shredded beef—an odd combo, but good. Sea bass sat fat and regal over orzo pasta, dubbed “Creole” due to its peppery seasonings, diced vegetable, and plump bits of shrimp. An appetizer of tiny empanadas, lined up on a narrow plate like models on a runway, came with two fillings: creamed corn and savory shredded pork.
Samba’s patio parties, the first Wednesday of every month, still generate a dim glow, with mojitos and caipirinhas a-flowing. But like Kate Moss, Samba Room isn’t as rowdy as it used to be. 4514 Travis St. 214-522-4137. $$-$$$.
Update: Samba Room has closed.
