Friday, March 29, 2024 Mar 29, 2024
58° F Dallas, TX
Advertisement
Publications

Review: Parigi

The food has a homey thing going on, but imagine a super-savvy home cook who’s up on all the trends.
By Teresa Gubbins |

Parigi has been on the radar ever since former chef Abraham Salum left to open his own restaurant on Cole Avenue. What’s become of the nearly 22-year-old Oak Lawn bistro?

Doing fine, thanks, under the laid-back rule of Janice Provost, who’s owned the casual-chic Mediterranean boutique for four years. Half-chef, half-hostess, she makes an effort to greet every table, and most of her clientele seem like friends. Her shoebox of a kitchen, open to the dining room, engenders a drop-in informality, like someone’s home—a quality Salum clearly worked to duplicate at his place.
The food had a homey thing going on, too, but imagine a super-savvy home cook who’s up on all the trends. Starters included a crunchy salad with glorious chunks of hearts of palm and a totally au courant appetizer of portobello fries, cleverly served in a Belgian-style cone. The mushrooms were cut into thick rectangles, dusted with crumbs, and fried until crisp, yet stayed moist and meaty inside—a very nice textural experience.
Entrées showed versatility, from a sizzling pork chop with maple sweet potatoes to a surprisingly satisfying vegetarian dish: acorn squash stuffed with a mixture of parsnips, peas, carrots, spinach, and quinoa and topped with Asiago cheese. Side vegetables such as broccoli and carrots were impeccably cooked.

The menu changes weekly, though the notorious chocolate glob dessert never goes away. Dark and gooey, like uncooked batter, it’s a Parigi trademark. But the tall, tender lemon cake was much better. There’s much more to Parigi than the glob.

Get contact information for Parigi.

Related Articles

Image
Arts & Entertainment

Here’s Who Is Coming to Dallas This Weekend: March 28-31

It's going to be a gorgeous weekend. Pencil in some live music in between those egg hunts and brunches.
Image
Arts & Entertainment

Arlington Museum of Art Debuts Two Must-See Nature-Inspired Additions

The chill of the Arctic Circle and a futuristic digital archive mark the grand opening of the Arlington Museum of Art’s new location.
By Brett Grega
Image
Arts & Entertainment

An Award-Winning SXSW Short Gave a Dallas Filmmaker an Outlet for Her Grief

Sara Nimeh balances humor and poignancy in a coming-of-age drama inspired by her childhood memories.
By Todd Jorgenson
Advertisement