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Mexican Fiesta

Cafe San Miguel brings the sophisticated tastes of Mexico to Henderson Avenue.
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So attached to our Tex-Mex are we that we’ve arrived a bit late to the Authentic Mexican Party, already underway in cities as far removed from the border as Chicago and New York.

But now it’s time to catch up, and here comes Cafe San Miguel to help. This upscale Mexican spot on Henderson is part of a new-school Mexican trend, joining other examples such as RJ in the West End and Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana in Fort Worth.

Cafe San Miguel’s location on Henderson sits right between the trendy Hector’s-Hibiscus cluster and the Hispanic grocery Fiesta Mart—a site that serves up some convenient symbolic value, because it so neatly embodies the line that Cafe San Miguel straddles between its upscale aspirations and its downscale authenticity. Thanks for that, CSM.

It’s hard to believe that Cafe San Miguel occupies the once dingy spot where Taqueria Lupita used to be. Nice renovation. The bar is a must-see, with its stunning mosaic tiles, its taut drum bar stools, shadow boxes, lotteria  objects (Mexican bingo), and Mexican folk art. Restrooms are a sight, too. The ladies’ has a rose theme, with rose-scented candles and painted petals on the walls. All it needs is the Seal song. The men’s room soothes like a day at the beach, with its broad swatches of deep-sea blues and greens.

The restaurant was named after the Mexican city of San Miguel de Allende, a town whose prosperous art scene, self-improvement classes, and large outpost of American retirees make it seem more Santa Fe than true Mexico. The folks behind Cafe San Miguel include restaurant designer Ron Guest and chef Fernando Marrufo, formerly of Cafe Pacific.

Staffers all looked like cats who had swallowed canaries, proudly puffed up on their something-special place. One night at a nearby table, a couple decided to use the downtime between courses to make a list for their trip to Whole Foods after dinner. A waiter approached.

“Are you writing an article about us?” he asked, with a knowing smile.

“We’re making up a shopping list,” they said, almost apologetically. He seemed crushed by the less-glamorous truth.

But give him a break. Cafe San Miguel is something special. And while the food did not score 100, there were many things to like, some to cherish.

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For one thing, the place had mole. This rich, labor-intensive Mexican chile sauce has its own cult. You don’t find it in that many places, and CSM had three: red, with almonds, cinnamon, and chocolate; green, with peanuts and pumpkin seeds; and pipian, with cumin and pumpkin seed.
Chicken breast with mole, garlic rice, and salad might sound simple, but the red mole gave the chicken a sweet, indefinable complexity. It certainly outclassed one of the signature dishes: pollo pibil, chicken lumped in with masa, tomatoes, onion, and epozote, and baked in a banana leaf. Unwrapping a package, even a banana leaf, is always fun, but the ingredients lost their identities as they baked into an unrefined stew.

As for the luscious chiles poblanos, cherish is the word. Stuffed with queso fresco, the peppers were lightly battered and pan-seared. Hardly anyone uses that pan-searing technique, but what terrific results, giving the pepper a slight crust and a delicate texture. The chiles poblanos came with a blade steak, which was too tough. It’s best to get them in their solo entrée form, with corn-tomato rice and pinto beans.

More greatness could be found among the appetizers: sopes rellenos, like individual nachos, topped with chicken, beef, and cheese; empanadas with beef, chorizo, and cheese, cooked on the griddle; and guacamole, chunky and sincere. There are also familiar staples, such as enchilada combos and fish tacos, with the fish swaddled in a crunchy, Negro Modelo beer-battered crust.

Much is made of the cocktails at CSM, including the signature drink, a margarita with pomegranate juice—a great, trendy idea. But the pomegranate presence is too pale. There’s not enough juice. We’ve got to get this party started. 1907 N. Henderson Ave. 214-370-9815. $$-$$$.

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