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Dubrovnik, Croatia

Marble-lined streets and a panoramic view of the Adriatic Sea are among the stunning sights at this ancient seaport on the Dalmatian Coast.
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SEASIDE HISTORY: You can’t beat the view of the city from Lovrjenac Fort.

WHY NOW Ancient ruins, lush foliage, old-world ambience, and mild climate make Dubrovnik, not yet overrun by tourism, an unheralded gem. This will change soon, however. Dubrovnik has rebounded quickly from the aftermath of the Yugoslavian war and is rapidly regaining popularity as a hot European vacation spot—due in no small part to local rebuilding efforts, which have thankfully restored much of the city’s natural charm. Another reason to get there fast: Croatia hasn’t converted yet to the Euro, and the local currency, the kuna, is foreigner friendly. DIVINE DELECTABLES In Old Town, head for the narrow street of Prijeko, where family-owned seafood and pasta restaurants flank the street and beckon with aromatic temptations. Spaghetteria Toni (+385-20-323-134) is renowned for its vegetarian pizza and pasta dishes. For a divine local dining experience, walk over to Nautika (+385-20-442-573), just outside of Pile Gate, for fresh, dressed-up seafood dishes, impeccable service, and a spectacular view of the Adriatic. (Pope John Paul II once ate there.) For a treat on the run, stop by the bustling open-air market to sample fresh vegetables, citrus fruits, breads, nuts, and cheeses. IF

Sample fresh produce, breads, and cheeses
at the open-air market.

WALLS COULD TALK For hundreds of years, the famed walls surrounding Dubrovnik have watched over the city’s people. No cars, buses, or trains are permitted within these 13th-century barricades, which means that everyone travels on foot. Dubrovnik’s most famous street, the marble-lined Placa, greets its visitors with the impressive Onofrio Fountain. Featuring 16 ornately carved masks, this landmark is still part of the city’s water supply system. Close by is the St. Savior Church, which dates from 1520 and is one of the few structures that survived the earthquake of 1667. At the eastern end of Placa, the Orlando Column, with its carved medieval knight, is a popular meeting place. And across the square, Sponza Palace features a curious mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles. Around nearly every street corner, palaces and churches make for significant eye-candy. Fans of the Baroque style should visit St. Blaise’s Church and the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin. To venture outside of the city’s walls, simply walk through Pile Gate, where buses and taxis are waiting to take you to ancient ruins and surviving forts, including Lovrjenac Fort, which affords onlookers one of the best views of the city.


Ancient ruins, lush foliage, old-world ambience, and mild climate make Dubrovnik, not yet overrun by tourism, an unheralded gem. This will change soon, however. Dubrovnik has rebounded quickly from the aftermath of the Yugoslavian war and is rapidly regaining popularity as a hot European vacation spot—due in no small part to local rebuilding efforts, which have thankfully restored much of the city’s natural charm. Another reason to get there fast: Croatia hasn’t converted yet to the Euro, and the local currency, the kuna, is foreigner friendly. DIVINE DELECTABLES In Old Town, head for the narrow street of Prijeko, where family-owned seafood and pasta restaurants flank the street and beckon with aromatic temptations. Spaghetteria Toni (+385-20-323-134) is renowned for its vegetarian pizza and pasta dishes. For a divine local dining experience, walk over to Nautika (+385-20-442-573), just outside of Pile Gate, for fresh, dressed-up seafood dishes, impeccable service, and a spectacular view of the Adriatic. (Pope John Paul II once ate there.) For a treat on the run, stop by the bustling open-air market to sample fresh vegetables, citrus fruits, breads, nuts, and cheeses. IF

Sample fresh produce, breads, and cheeses
at the open-air market.

WALLS COULD TALK For hundreds of years, the famed walls surrounding Dubrovnik have watched over the city’s people. No cars, buses, or trains are permitted within these 13th-century barricades, which means that everyone travels on foot. Dubrovnik’s most famous street, the marble-lined Placa, greets its visitors with the impressive Onofrio Fountain. Featuring 16 ornately carved masks, this landmark is still part of the city’s water supply system. Close by is the St. Savior Church, which dates from 1520 and is one of the few structures that survived the earthquake of 1667. At the eastern end of Placa, the Orlando Column, with its carved medieval knight, is a popular meeting place. And across the square, Sponza Palace features a curious mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles. Around nearly every street corner, palaces and churches make for significant eye-candy. Fans of the Baroque style should visit St. Blaise’s Church and the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin. To venture outside of the city’s walls, simply walk through Pile Gate, where buses and taxis are waiting to take you to ancient ruins and surviving forts, including Lovrjenac Fort, which affords onlookers one of the best views of the city.

For hundreds of years, the famed walls surrounding Dubrovnik have watched over the city’s people. No cars, buses, or trains are permitted within these 13th-century barricades, which means that everyone travels on foot. Dubrovnik’s most famous street, the marble-lined Placa, greets its visitors with the impressive Onofrio Fountain. Featuring 16 ornately carved masks, this landmark is still part of the city’s water supply system. Close by is the St. Savior Church, which dates from 1520 and is one of the few structures that survived the earthquake of 1667. At the eastern end of Placa, the Orlando Column, with its carved medieval knight, is a popular meeting place. And across the square, Sponza Palace features a curious mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles. Around nearly every street corner, palaces and churches make for significant eye-candy. Fans of the Baroque style should visit St. Blaise’s Church and the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin. To venture outside of the city’s walls, simply walk through Pile Gate, where buses and taxis are waiting to take you to ancient ruins and surviving forts, including Lovrjenac Fort, which affords onlookers one of the best views of the city.

 Lovrjenac Fort

By the Sea  Outside the city, adventure awaits.
The southern Dalmatian Coast is a lush region with bays, beaches, steep cliffs, and forested islands of pine and cypress. The crystal-clear waters of Dubrovnik hold some of the most remarkable diving spectacles in the world. In addition to colorful schools of fish, the underwater world includes the wrecks of a third-century Roman ship and a German torpedo boat, as well as a magnificent underwater wall and cave, where divers can explore the splendor of Dubrovnik’s red coral and varied marine life. (To arrange a diving excursion, e-mail [email protected].) Or take a ferry to Stari Grad on Hvar, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic, best known for its pine forests and lavender fields. A quick hop from Hvar, on the lushly wooded island of Korcûla, lies Marco Polo’s rumored birthplace. Investigate Korcûla’s medieval towns and architecture. Island hopping has never been easier, more worthwhile—or more fun.

 Lovrjenac Fort

By the Sea  Outside the city, adventure awaits.
The southern Dalmatian Coast is a lush region with bays, beaches, steep cliffs, and forested islands of pine and cypress. The crystal-clear waters of Dubrovnik hold some of the most remarkable diving spectacles in the world. In addition to colorful schools of fish, the underwater world includes the wrecks of a third-century Roman ship and a German torpedo boat, as well as a magnificent underwater wall and cave, where divers can explore the splendor of Dubrovnik’s red coral and varied marine life. (To arrange a diving excursion, e-mail [email protected].) Or take a ferry to Stari Grad on Hvar, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic, best known for its pine forests and lavender fields. A quick hop from Hvar, on the lushly wooded island of Korcûla, lies Marco Polo’s rumored birthplace. Investigate Korcûla’s medieval towns and architecture. Island hopping has never been easier, more worthwhile—or more fun.

FASTFACTS
Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik (Marijana Blazica 2, +385-20-320-320, www.hilton.com; rooms from $238), an easy walk from Old Town, opened in May 2005 as a model of an original 19th-century hotel. Old-world design and modern amenities make it a unique but convenient find, and many of its 147 rooms offer an unobstructed view of the sea. For those who prefer a more private setting, the Hotel Stari Grad (Od Sigurate 4, +385-20-321-373, www.hotelstarigrad.com; rooms from $122), with its bird’s-eye view of the city’s terracotta rooftops and stone-lined streets, reveals further opportunities for exploration. Book early, as this hotel has only eight rooms.

Photos: Jen Maki

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