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Neighborhood Find: Kampai Sushi & Grill

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Photo: Kevin Hunter Marple

From the snapshots of favorite customers on the wall to the hearty “Hello!” upon entering, this Addison Circle sushi bar makes you feel instantly at home. It’s a tiny yet airy spot, exuding friendly vibes and chatty but efficient service. Best of all is the sushi. There’s nothing overly creative about Kampai, but even the most ubiquitous fish can be sublime when it’s fresh, and sushi chef Kazuaki Miyagi knows his fish.

Silky smoked salmon was luscious on the tongue. Toro (fatty tuna) was buttery, rich perfection. Spanish mackerel was bold and musky but not too fishy. And a generous cut of octopus had a sharp, chewy consistency. Rolls are also fairly typical, ranging from spicy tuna to eel. All were delicious, but the table favorite was the spider roll with its crunchy, tiny soft shell crabs. For a starter, skip the miso soup and try Kampai’s shiitake mushroom vegetable soup, with fragrant chicken broth, crisp veggies, and meaty mushrooms. Soothing and rich, it’s ideal for chilly winter nights.

As we said our goodbyes, our crew received yet another hearty salutation from Kampai’s jovial chef. The masses huddled together at the sushi bar—fueled by good cheer and plenty of dry sake—turned and waved as well. Kampai is as friendly as Cheers. Everybody might not know your name at first, but give them time. It’s worth the return visits. 4995 Addison Circle, Addison. 972-490-8888. $$. —Todd Johnson

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