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Imperial Justice

Tokyo Nohana brings delicious Japanese cuisine back to the former Royal Tokyo spot on Greenville.
By D Magazine |
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If you are visiting this restaurant for the first time, the large Japanese teahouse complete with bonsai trees, waterfall, and koi pond will not be difficult to spot. This location housed one of Dallas’ first Japanese restaurants, Royal Tokyo, until a fire ended its 30-year life a few years ago. Recently restored by new owner James Lee, Tokyo Nohana is billed as a premier steak and sushi restaurant. The historic spot has a new spark.

On our first visit, I was a bit confused by the lack of steak dishes on the menu: only beef teriyaki and beef tataki. However, the 27 different sushi varieties and 30 sushi rolls made me forget about the steak.

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First to arrive was a lobster roll, with chopped lobster tail, asparagus, and avocado. It was reminiscent of a California roll, but we liked the warm lobster instead of imitation crab. A sumo-size Sumo roll featured a large chunk of fresh salmon and ruby red tuna wrapped in a thin cucumber sheet. The fish was so fresh that we could distinguish the two tastes on our palate. We also devoured a Hannah roll with glee. Tuna and avocado wrapped in soybean paper, then rolled in shredded crabmeat, was refreshingly different from the norm.

Next came a piece of melt-in-your-mouth yellowtail belly sushi. Spanish mackerel, despite an opaque liver color, surprised us with its mild and buttery flavor. But the highlight was an oyster special. For $7.95, we gorged on two raw oysters, each the size of an open palm. Every bite—we needed six to finish one oyster—made us swoon.

Enough about sushi. What’s the beef on the beef? On our way out, we discovered the hibachi room that features steaks of all kinds—teriyaki, New York, filet mignon, and Chateâubriand—hidden behind Japanese sliding screens. We made a note to sit here on our return visit.

Each hibachi dinner includes a shrimp appetizer, soup, salad, vegetables, steamed rice (but we recommend the tasty hibachi fried rice for an extra $2), ice cream, and Japanese tea. We opted for the lobster (9 ounces for $35) and Chateâubriand, the center cut of the tenderloin (10 ounces for $25.95), and got much more for our money than the seven courses. Our hibachi chef, Peter, served up a show (corny jokes included) as he skillfully flipped, diced, and sliced our meal.

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We found the Chateâubriand exceptionally tender and the lobster firm and fresh. Both needed little more than a sprinkle of salt, pepper, and soy sauce to enjoy. It was heaven on a hibachi.

Though the staff was gracious and friendly, there is a slight language barrier, but it won’t deter us from returning, especially for the revolving sushi bar lunches. Eager diners pick sushi dishes off a moving conveyor belt. You never know what you’re going to get, but it’s prepared on the spot.
With a little time, this Upper Greenville newcomer might become a landmark Japanese restaurant like its predecessor. And unlike its trendy counterparts on Lower Greenville, there are usually no lines or attitude standing between you and your sushi. 7525 Greenville Ave. 214-987-2333. $$-$$$.

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