In front of me was a creation straight out of the Pee-wee’s Playhouse refrigerator. Though the 16-ounce grilled ribeye was supposed to be the star of the show, a baked potato stood on end, hollowed out and stuffed with a creamy mixture of shiitake mushrooms and leeks. From its top sprouted two cherry tomato quarters, giving the distinct impression that chef Todd Erickson likes to play with his food.
My companion, who looks a bit like Elmer Fudd, said, “Why, it’s that wascally wabbit.” I nearly spit out my Pinot Noir.
To accompany Mr. Potato Head, four thick stalks of asparagus lay on “his” shoulder, looking a bit like a palm tree. The steak lounged up against the vegetable backdrop like a dozing cowpoke.
Although I stopped giggling, my inner child was still in control. I picked up the spunky spud like a doll and hopped it toward my mouth. “Oh, no!” I said in my best Mr. Bill voice. Then I bit off the ears.
Don’t get me wrong. Owner Hector Garcia and executive chef Erickson aren’t just fooling around at the newly opened Hector’s on Henderson. Erickson’s cartoon-esque presentations are backed by solid, classic American food with Texas twists—as in local, fresh, and seasonal ingredients. The chef with the self-confessed “short attention span” keeps himself busy by playing with flavors.
Like a pan-seared Hudson Valley foie gras paired with huckleberry preserves and served on brioche Texas toast with a balsamic reduction. Or the oh-so-memorable tiger shrimp that sit on a pile of plump Anson Mills cheddar grits drizzled with Tabasco-spiked vinaigrette. Caramelized pears, candied Brazil nuts, and chunks of Paula Lambert’s Deep Ellum blue cheese make a glorious topping for a bed of Bibb lettuce dressed in shallot vinaigrette. And that’s just for starters.
Similarly, an “Oh, my God” slips from your mouth when a hefty slice of Not Your Mama’s Meatloaf is set before you. But it was the taste that drew true accolades. The huge triangular chunk of veal, pork, and ground beef, wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon, was glazed with a candied tomato sauce and served with blanched collard greens and a knockout macaroni and cheese finished with Gruyere and white truffle cheddar cheese sauce. However, cheesy isn’t always a good thing, especially when it applies to presentation. The scallops suffered from a case of terminal “wow-itis.” Served in a bowl atop a pool of corn and edamame succotash and basil sweet pea sauce, the delicately seared fish disks slipped into a mucky, chunky, sloshy green mess once touched by a fork.
But I doubt you’ll ever see it. Garcia had spotted me earlier, and when he brought chef Erickson out for an introduction, my buddy Elmer immediately cited him for “sufferin’ succotash.” Needless to say, Elmer’s had his last free meal on D.
Ever the gracious host, Garcia, who spent 18 years at the Riviera (four of those as general manager), took the criticism like a pro. He spent almost a year putting together a neighborhood-friendly restaurant where patrons can dine on an $8 sandwich or a $29 entrée in a comfortable atmosphere that pays homage to the building’s original tenant and current landlord, Eva Potter.
The three chandeliers in the subtle gray main dining room were built by Potter Iron Works in 1927 for Neiman Marcus Downtown. Garcia commissioned local metal artist Roberto Da Silva to weave iron breadbaskets, wine-bucket stands, and wine racks to complete the tribute. The comfortable dining room doesn’t smack of a Disneyland redo; Garcia has smartly reworked an old building and adapted it to an active modern building.
With—curtain, please—show tunes! Toe-tapping favorites from New York, New York and Cabaret emanate from the piano. Occasionally a trombone player joins in, and, on rare occasion, Garcia, an accomplished singer and actor, takes the microphone for a song or two. Until a staffer hooks him off the stage as he stammers, “That’s all, folks.” 2929 N. Henderson Ave. 214-821-0432. $-$$$.
