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Go Wild, Stay Cool

Head to the wilderness of British Columbia, where whale watching, seakayaking, and chasing an occasional black bear out of camp are all in aday’s play.
By Nancy Nichols |

Clay is the hardest-working male on Vancouver Island. He loves his job, even though it requires him to be at work every morning before dawn. He works sunup to sundown, seven days a week, without a vacation.

I met Clay my first morning at Clayoquot Wilderness Resorts & Spa. He nodded his approval when I asked to join him at his post on the bank of the Bedwell River. Together we sat in silence, waiting for sunlight to break over the glacial mountaintops surrounding the camp nestled deep in the untouched forests of western British Columbia. Through the steam rising from my coffee mug, I watched several great blue herons fish in a shallow tide pool. Two bald eagles circled high above our heads. A cool, pine-scented breeze kicked up as the sky lightened. Suddenly, Clay’s body went rigid.

At this point, I should tell you that Clay is a 2-year-old yellow Labrador retriever. And his mission in life is to keep bears from bothering the guests who have come to experience nature from the cozy confines of this ultra-luxury outpost.

As if on cue—not 50 yards from where we sat—the nose of a 200-pound black bear poked out of a cluster of hemlock trees. The bear looked cautiously in both directions and ventured a step. Clay let out a blood-curdling howl that echoed through the hills. Within seconds, the dog’s colleagues came running (and barking) from all directions. The bear feebly attempted to defend himself by curling his lips back and baring his teeth. Clay nipped a clump of hair from the bear’s rump as it turned to flee.

NOT SO ROUGH: Accommodations at Wilderness Outpost are luxurious tents filled with Adirondack beds and antique dressing tables.

And so another day began at the Wilderness Outpost at Bedwell River, where pampered guests stay in luxurious, prospector-style tents filled with handmade Adirondack beds fitted with down comforters, antique dressing tables topped with heirloom vases, and remote-controlled propane stoves that take the nip out of the night air.

Yes, the Outpost is remote—you have to take a hydro plane or the resort’s 30-minute boat taxi from Tofino, a quaint artist community on the west coast of Vancouver Island. Traveling by water, you are likely to spot an orca, gray, or humpback whale.

Once on land you will be treated to camping cuisine like no other. Executive chef Timothy May and his talented crew make everything on-site from local ingredients. Each morning begins with the scent of baking bread drifting through the camp, which includes 16 guest tents, two dining tents, a library tent (with high-speed Internet access, of course), and two spa tents.

For four days I exercised as many of the activity options as possible—hiking, kayaking, horseback riding, salmon fishing, and whale watching. Each evening started with cocktails around the fire, followed by a four-course wine dinner, and ending with great conversation under the stars.

On my last night, I tucked myself into bed and dozed off to the song of a screech owl echoing through the gentle rain. The sound of cracking branches awoke me from deep sleep. Blood pulsed in my ears when a big black shadow danced in the moonlight in front of my tent. I grabbed my flashlight and froze in fear—a black nose appeared under the tent’s zipper. Before I could scream, Clay’s wet head popped into view. “You lookin’ for a place to sleep?” I asked. He jumped into my bed, and we cuddled for a long bearless night. He left before dawn.

HOW TO GET THERE
Prices for Clayoquot Wilderness Resorts (Floating Resort at Quait Bay, Healing Grounds Spa and Wellness Centre, or the Wilderness Outpost at Bedwell River) include round-trip airfare between Vancouver and Tofino, airport shuttle, water taxi, deluxe accommodations, all meals and beverages (including alcohol), and guided activities (888-333-5405; www.wildretreat.com).

American Airlines (800-223-5436; www.aa.com) flies nonstop to Vancouver. Transfer to Canadian Western Airlines (866-835-9292; www.cwair.com) for the short trip to Tofino. Note: the last flight for Tofino leaves at 2:15 p.m. I recommend staying at least one night in Vancouver at the Wedgewood Hotel (800-663-0666; www.wedgewoodhotel.com). Once you reach Tofino, the Clayoquot folks take care of you.

WHAT IT COSTS
Rates are approximate and subject to the exchange rate. Resorts close December through March.

Quait Bay low season
(April, May, October, November): $3,700 for seven nights ($550 per day)

Quait Bay high season
(June through September): $5,600 for seven nights ($800 per day)

Wilderness Outpost
(May through September): $7,000 for seven nights ($1,000 per day)

Combination stay
(three nights at Outpost, four nights at Quait Bay): $6,400 ($900 per day)

Eco-tourism to the Max
Clayoquot Wilderness Resorts & Spa combines exotic luxury with ecological responsibility. Both its facilities employ locals and offer education-based naturalist and recreational activities that protect and contribute to the enhancement of the Clayoquot Sound Biosphere Reserve. General manager John Caton has an active interest in salmon habitat restoration, raptor rehabilitation, and whale vocalization research. Chef Timothy May offers a Five-star Foraging Getaway in which guests gather local produce, tour oyster and scallop beds, visit a floating vegetable garden, then take May’s afternoon natural gourmet cuisine cooking classes in the Outpost’s new theater kitchen.

Don’t be surprised if you run into a botanist or biologist as you explore the delicate balance of the old-growth Biosphere on the Upside-down Rain Forest Walk.

Zen in the Wilderness
After several days of “roughing it” at the Outpost, I made my way to the Floating Resort at Quait Bay for some intense R&R. Sure, you can kayak and canoe or whale watch from here, but I had a hard time resisting the temptations at the nearby Healing Grounds Spa and Wellness Centre located in a Garden-of-Eden-like setting in the British Columbia rain forest. I followed my therapeutic massages, hot rock treatments, and herbal wraps with long soaks in the steamy, wood-fired cedar hot tub overlooking Quait Bay. Back onboard—the resort really does float—I found the fireside bar and a book and gave my sense of adventure a break. For three days, I feasted on local salmon, crab, mussels, and clams. I did manage a hike one morning and returned with freshly picked chanterelle mushrooms. Graciously, chef Timothy May created a soup fit for a goddess. I napped after my afternoon yoga class, and that night I enjoyed another wine dinner. Oh, Canada.

Photos: Courtesy of Clayoquot

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