NEWCOMERS
VENUS STEAKHOUSE AND SUPPER CLUB
In the *50s, my parents were reg-ulars on (he Dallas supper club circuit- The Baker.TheAdolphus. The Chaparral-and my mom stills gets wistful recalling the elegant Sipango Club-Dallas’ exclusive speakeasy where waltzing couples acknowledged the back room activities with a knowing wink. Those were the days when dining out in style included a night of dinner and dancing. Couples pooled their cash for a bring-your-own bottle and ordered “set ups” at gone-but-not-forgotten clubs like The Chalet in Lakewood. The steaks, baked potatoes, salad, and buckets of hollandaise played second fiddle. A fine rendition of “Minnie the Moocher” kept everybody on the dance floor until dawn.
Now my mom gels her fix by eating dinner at the Green Room and running around the corner for bebop and a beer at the Gypsy Tea Room. Bui when she heard about Venus Steakhouse and Supper Club, we both grabbed dates (easier for her than me) and headed over, hoping to recapture a little of the glory days.
Pulling up to the former TGI Friday’s on tired Lemmon Avenue, we didn’t get the grand-entrance feeling we’d hoped for. Our first glance inside wasn’t much better – the late summer sun shone through unsightly windows making the black and silver faux finish appear more ghoulish than swank. We wouldn’t have been shocked to rind Morticia Addams behind the hostess stand.
Instead we were greeted by general manager Karim Alaoui. once the gracious host at Toscana. Mediterraneo, and, most recently. Bistro A. He led us up one level to a table with a view of the dance floor. The tiered space is centered by a four-sided bar surrounded by large semi-private leather booths and banquettes. Thankfully, the sun disappeared just as the musicians began tuning their instruments and the décor morphed to elegant.
Our waiters swarmed around the table and filled our glasses with (warm) Nicolas Feuillatte champagne. Menus arrived and the torch songs floated softly. We could easily carry on a conversation.
And there was plenty to talk about on the menu -a streamlined list of steaks, chops, fish, and chicken entrées. But someone went too far by rating the “aphrodisiac potency” of each dish with little red kisses on the menu, much like the red peppers denote spicy dishes in a Chinese restaurant. To make the notion even more ridiculous, a love note from Venus warned the faint of heart.
We decided to go for the full gimmick (you never know!) and ordered only dishes marked with smooches. As we tapped our fingers to “In the 1 Mood.” our crab cakes and shrimp cocktail arrived. Both were above average: The six jumbo shrimp were fresh, and the clover-shaped crab cakes had a powerful kick at the finish, perhaps the magic ingredient we needed to get our juices flowing.
The second our plates were lifted, we hit the dance floor-my mom and her date flowing easily; my date and I taking turns stepping on each other’s feet. Then we sashayed back to the table in time for the entrees-a one-kiss grilled tuna steak coupled with a fine creamy risotto and lightly turned baby vegetables and the three-kiss oven-roasted rosemary chicken. Once my date saw the honey-glazed bird submerged in a pool of soup-like gravy, his flame went out. A side of fried red onions was a total turnoff-a tasteless and greasy mass of batter. Pomme frites in reality were cold cottage fries with a visible layer of salt. However, we managed to find some romance with a no-kiss bone-in prime aged rib-eye delivered sizzling hot on the outside with a warm pink center.
A spectacular chocolate mousse perched on a praline crust and surrounded by a shell of white and dark chocolate provided the perfect sugar rush to gel us back in the swing of things. The food wasn’t the best we’ve ever had, but we had a good time anyway. And if you’re hesitant to polish your dancing shoes, give my mom a call. 4140 Lemmon Ave. @ Douglas Ave. 214-520-1177.$$-$$$.
RANERIS
VALLEY RANCH HASALOT OF LITTLE ITALY, THANKS to Raneri’s chef/owner Peter Raneri. His ambitious menu, which features Italian and Continental dishes, boasts 24 hot and cold appetizers, 20 pasta selections, and 30 seafood entrées, along with countless veal, beef, and chicken specialties. The food, atmosphere, and prices are a refreshing break from the high-dollar trendy Northern Italian restaurants currently invading Dallas.
The interior is a trip back to a senior prom in the ’70s-lattice walls are covered with plastic grapevines and twinkle lights and white chiffon swags the ceiling and windows. But leave your Victor Costa taffeta dress in the closet; the crystal chandelier hanging from the center of the room is the only formality.
On both of our visits, we witnessed large family gatherings-a true sign of a great Italian joint. On one visit, a table of 20-not celebrating any-thing special except dining with friends-passed around bread, plates of sausage and peppers, and baked clams and ate off each other’s plates, When a glass of wine tumbled, the table burst into laughter.
We had just as much fun sampling the specialties. The first bite of Gamberi a la Raneri, huge shrimp wrapped with bacon and served with a wonderful orange liqueur sauce and poached orange slices, was shockingly sweet. But our taste buds quickly adjusted to the subtle play of the orange rind against the saltiness of the bacon.
We were less satisfied with the Continental fare.The Veal Cordon Bleu was an unappealing mess-two eight-inch ovals of veal stuffed with a runny mixture of melted mozzarella and prosciutto were submerged in a pool of thin brown sauce. A strip steak cooked in a brandied pepper sauce was easier on the eye, but uninspired.
However, an appetizer of fried clams baked in the shells with mozzarella and spinach was flawless. We’re also happy to report that, thanks to chef Raneri, Dallas now has authentic versions of Braciola (beef stuffed with eggs, cheese, and parsley) and Melanzane Rollatini (eggplant rolled with ricotta, prosciutto, and mozzarella). both of which are covered in a marinara sauce shimmering with freshness.
Our service ranged from somewhat snooty to overly casual. A request for a half order of gnocchi on one visit was disregarded and delivered stubbornly as a full plate. (However, the leftover pillows of potato pasta with chunks of ground beef, tomato sauce, and a touch of cream pepped up our lunch hour the following day.) Another time, our waiter, dressed in a tux shirt, leaned casually on the table, rocking it from side to side as he recited the specials with all the clarity of Dick Tracy’s sidekick. Mumbles.
Wine by the glass is limited to “Soave, Chardonnay, Merlot.and Chianti,” which is disrespectful to the quality of the food. So we suggest choosing a bottle from the short, but respectable, list. S604 N. MacArthur Blvd. @ Valley Ranch Pkwy., Irving. 214-574-7655. $$.
ASIAN FUSION
Abacus. Kent Rathbun’s kitchen is a stage; dinner is a show. Lobster shooters are served sake-style-six cups contain a chunk of lobster tossed back with a shot of coconut milk, red curry, and sake. Entrees of pan-seared wall-eyed pike with scallion whipped potatoes and pork loin with pumpkin risotto are inspired meat and mash variations. 4511 McKinney Ave. 214-559-3111. $$$.
Citizen. Tuna tartare served on the base of an upside-down martini glass and sake served in wooden boxes may be as tricky as the decor, but somehow it all works. A stunningly simple slab of black cod is served solo on a banana leaf, a blond miso anchoring the ethereal fish. And Kobe beef, grilled and sliced, is the ultimate extravagance at around $15 an ounce. 3858 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-522-7253. $$$.
D BEST Liberty. Annie Wong, the mother of Thai food in Dallas, still owns three all-Thai restaurants, but Liberty is where her imagination is freed. Romantically and softly lit, with beaded candleshades on each table and bamboo birdcages animated with twinkling Christmas lights, the brightly lit kitchen makes Liberty into real dinner theater, and Wong is the star. What makes her food different is what makes any chef’s food special: imagination. 5631 Alta Ave. 214-887-8795.$$.
BAKERY/SANDWICHES
Highland Park Pharmacy. We can only describe the Pharmacy atmosphere as reassuring. Some people love the Palm Beach sandwich (pimento cheese to you) or the tuna salad with cherry cokes. For us, the grilled cheese is the winner-American slices melted to glue, the bread buttery and crisp. Chips are extra; sodas and milkshakes are priceless. Lunch only. 3229 Knox St. 214-521-2126.$.
Street’s Famous Sandwiches. A sandwich can be just a sandwich, but at Street’s it’s more like a meal. Fresh ingredients are key: turkeys, roasts, and desserts are baked on the spot. As for the sides, Chinese sesame noodles, cole slaw, and potato salad are fine filler. But you might skip those and go straight from your sandwich to the rum cake. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-526-2505. Multiple locations. $.
Wild About Harry’s. Harry’s serves real Chicago dogs, topped with onions, mustard, peppers, and the authentic neon-green relish-he also serves them smothered with Texas chili, sauerkraut, and pretty much everything else. You have to have custard after a Harry’s dog -it’s smoother than crème br?lée, and every day there’s a different selection of flavors. This is the kind of place that gives you hope for American culture. 3113 Knox St. 214-520-3113. Multiple locations. $.
BARBEQUE
D BEST peggy Sue Barbecue. Though Sonny Bryan’s still wins in the beef sandwich category -the definitive dish when you’re talking Texas barbeque – Peggy Sue’s beats Sonny’s by a rib in meats, side dishes, and sauces. And the smoked chicken quesadillas alone are worth a trip. A new favorite is brisket fajitas-soft flour tortillas filled with grilled barbequed brisket, onions. and green peppers. 6600 Snider Plaza. 214-987-9188,$.
Red Hot & Blue. RHB specializes in pulled pork and dry ribs-thai is. Southern-style, as opposed to Texas-style, barbeque. It’s all good, though there are gimmicky touches like the fried onion loaf. The “blues” are on the walls. in the form of concert posters, and in your ears. Friendly waitstaff, 9810N. Central Expwy. 214-368-7427; 5017 W. Piano Pkwy., Ste. 100, Piano. 972-248-3866. $.
Sammy’s Barbecue. Barbeque for the banking crowd at bankers’ hours. Every day at lunch, Sammy’s is full of white-collar types, ties thrown over their shoulders, chowing on great red-stripe brisket, ribs, and homemade Mom-style pie. No, really-Sammy’s is a family-run enterprise, and all the Pritchards pitch in. 2126 Leonard St. 214-880-9064. $.
BURGERS
Angry Dog. The menu is standard bar cuisine, including some great burgers, nachos, and sandwiches, but it extends to include some inspiring options. The Angry Dog-a grilled, all-beef hot dog split and served open-faced, covered with grilled onions, chili, and cheese-is truly fantastic and a bargain at $4.50. For serious beer drinkers, there are 120 beers to choose from. 2726 Commerce St. 214-741-4406,$. T
D BEST The Prince of Hamburgers. The crispy-edged, toasty bun, the slim but beefy-tasting, just-cooked patty, and the simple but fresh garnitures combine to make the quintessential American sandwich. Prince sticks to the classic accompaniments: thick shakes, incredibly frosty root beer, fries, and fabulous onion rings, all brought to you by a real live person. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 214-526-9081. $.
Purple Cow. This burger-and-shake diner uses Blue Bell ice cream and features 10 flavors of milkshakes, including the signature Purple Cow and the Peanut Butter and Jelly. The Blue-Cheeseburger is a great variation on standard soda-shop fare, dripping with rich, creamy blue cheese. But the reason we’ll go back is the grilled Palm Beach-a hot pimento cheese sandwich that oozes down your arms. It’s worth the price of the dry cleaning bill. 110 Preston Royal Village. 214-373-0037; 5934 Royal Ln- Ste. 110. 214-373-0037. $.
CHINESE
Arc-En-Ciel The kitchen employs separate cooks for the Chinese and Vietnamese fare, but everyone really goes there to eat Vietnamese. We ordered our last meal in a leisurely way, a few dishes at a time. Pristine Imperial rolls: shrimp pounded and molded on sugarcane; grilled pork to roll in rice paper with rice noodles, cilantro, mint, lettuce, and sprouts-each dish delightful, fresh, excellent. 3555 W. Walnut St., Garland. 972-272-2188. $-$$.
D BEST Jenny Ho s Szechwan Pavilion. After 20 years of trying, Jenny Ho’s is serving some of the best Chinese in town. We never eat here (or takeout) without a plate of twice-cooked pork-paper thin squares of pork stir-tried in black bean sauce with ihick cuts of carrots and crisp vegetables. If you are lucky enough to live nearby, they’ll deliver. 8409 Preston Rd. 214-368-1303. $-$$.
New Big Wong. Large lunches are served here in fast-food time, but a leisurely dinner rewards experimentation. The menu is large and largely authentic, serving a wide variety of wiggly sea creatures. The setting is plain and the service friendly. 2121 S. Greenville Ave. 214-821-4198. $-$$.
Taiwan. Taiwan has had the same chef, owner, and location for 18 years, so it must be doing something right. The Princess Beef-delicate strips of beef with crunchy celery cubes and peanuts in a hot, spicy brown sauce-tastes as good as it looks. And the hot and sour soup is delicious, with fresh shrimp and pork, and mercifully lacking in that disconcerting, jiggly cornstarch texture that so often makes us push our bowl away. 4980 Belt Line Rd,, Addison. 972-387-2333. $-$$.
Tong’s. Tong’s has always been a friendly, casual place with ambitious food. But after several recent visits, we found the service and appearance anything but sharp. However, the shredded pork, cabbage, woodear mushrooms, and scrambled eggs wrapped in Hoisin-lined pancakes is an above-average mu shu. And the Kung Pao chicken stir-fried with peanuts and vegeta-bles in a sweet and spicy grilled pepper sauce is one of the best versions in town. 11661 Preston Rd. 214-361-6588. $$.
Uncle Tal’s. The kitchen never fusses when asked to prepare old-time favorites no longer on the menu. Seafood lovers will swoon over Sa-Chai jumbo shrimp with baby com in a spicy tea-infused sauce. And the Hunan Chicken is lightly stir-fried in the best black bean sauce in Dallas. Service can be flaky or efficient. In the Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. @ LBJ Fwy., 972-934-9998. $$$.
DELI
Dell News. This plainly authentic deli has continued to demonstrate that you don’t have to be from New York to know the Real Thing when you taste it. Hot cabbage borscht. potato pancakes, and rye-wrapped pastrami are all wonderful. 4805 Frankford Rd. 972-733-3354. $-$$.
Gilbert’s. All you Yankees pining for the comforts of the Carnegie Deli, stop whining. The Gilbert family has been dishing out potato knishes, stuffed derma, and kasha varnishkas as good as any in the Big Apple for more than a decade. They also have a decent plate of spaghetli and meatballs for the shiksa in your group. 11661 Preston Rd. 214-373-3333. $.
EASTERN EUROPEAN
Athénée Cafe. Dallas’ only Rumanian restaurant-are you surprised? Stuffed mountain cabbage is a fabulous signature dish -meatball-sized beef rolls oven-roasted indelicate cabbage leaves with a red wine sauce, just like Grandma in Transylvania used to make. Other highlights: Rumanian sausage and veal chop. The wine list is adequate. 5365 Spring Valley Rd..Ste. 150.972-239-8060.,$$.
ECLECTIC
Bread Winners. Three different menus a day are all imaginative. Bui the buttermilk pan-fried chicken breast with mashed potatoes and cream gravy is the real winner-lightly battered and fried fork-tender chicken over leek mashed potatoes and cream gravy so good it makes the bland bread better. 3301 McKinney Ave. 214-754-4940.$-$$.
Firehouse. We’ve had no problems with new chef Bill Lewis’ version of “International Hot and Spicy Cuisine.” Trendy tamarind-soy marinated pork chops are served with a tongue-soothing mango salsa. Surprisingly, our favorite dish isn’t spicy at all -the warm chocolate devil’s food cake surrounded by Milwaukee Joe’s vanilla ice cream comes garnished with a chunk of homemade pistachio brittle. 1928 Greenville Ave. 214-826-2468.$$.
Genghis Grill. You get a stainless steel bow] from the stack and choose your ingredients from a cafeteria line on ice: bins of meat and vegetables, along with your choice of oils and seasonings. Then you give your bowl to the grill-master, who tosses it on a giant round griddle, cooks it quick, then serves it back to you in the bowl. And Genghis Grill provides basic recipes for people who don’t know the difference between tamarind and teriyaki. 1915 Greenville Ave. 214-841-9990. $-$$.
The Grape. For 25 years, me warm, cozy room lit with purple grape cluster lights has served as inspiration for romantic dates, great food, and affordable wine. From the signature mushroom soup to new favorites, including grilled halibut served with rice tossed in a light lemon cream sauce. The Grape is forever dependable -more than we can say about some of the other promises made over dinner. 2808 Greenville Ave. 214-828-1981. $$.
D BEST The Green Room. Undoubtedly the grooviest cher and dining room in town. Marc Cassel’s “Collision Cuisine” menu includes a knockout prime strip steak served with lemon-horseradish potatoes and a delicate coconut-steamed rainbow trout. Don’t be fooled by the young staff; they know the menu and wine list and service is hip and polished. 2715 Elm St. 214-748-7666. $$-$$$.
Soho. The imaginative one-world-on-a-plate concept isn’t as complicated as it sounds. The mahi-mahi with a light ginger and lemongrass crust, grilled to tender, bedded on nutty red wehani rice, and encircled with a soy-lemon sauce is the dish that would lure us back to pseudo-Sono. An armagnac poached pear with toasted walnut and rice mascarpone cheese is simple elegance done well. 5290 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-490-8686. $$.
Thomas Avenue Beverage Company. TABC isn’t a beer and burger pub, although they do serve both. Chef Kerry Kelly has elevated the menu to the level other tine restaurants in town by rotating creative versions of Southwestern, Cuban, and Italian with any other cuisine that fits his mood. The tikka chicken is a great rendition of the Indian classic. 2901 Thomas Ave. 214-979-0452. $$.
FRENCH/CONTINENTAL
Addison Cafe. It’s called “Le French Bistro,” but in reality. Addison Cafe is a restaurant serving classically prepared French and New American dishes, which has kept them in business for 15 years. Tournedos of beet” are cooked medium-rare and served in a textbook bordelaise sauce. And dark chocolate mousse is worth every hip-hugging calorie. 5290 Belt Line Rd.@ Montfort Dr..Ste. 108. Addison. 972-991-8824.$$-$$$.
Chez Gerard. Which is more to be celebrated. French thrift or French style? Skin-thin petals of veal liver, sautéed with onions and grapes in port wine sauce, become the gourmand’s liver and onions-or is it the peasant’s foie gras? Whatever. 4444 McKinney Ave. 214-522-6865. $$-$$$.
D REVISISTS Clair De Lune. Clair de Lune has never let down -until recently. Our evening started with the usual warm greeting, making us feel at home in this cozy hideaway that has been serving quality French cuisine for 12 years. The wine list arrived along with a sociable server who smoothly guided us around the selections until we comfortably paired our preference with price. Once the cork was popped and the orders were placed, he vanished. After 20 minutes, we filed a Missing Waiter Report with a bus boy. Another 10 minutes passed before someone resembling our server appeared. We wish he’d stayed lost. Though he looked like the same guy. our amiable Dr. Jekyll returned as Mr. Hyde, hurriedly shoving both entrées-canard à l’orange and beef tenderloin -across the table to both of us at the same time. With a quick about face, he rushed back through the kitchen door. The beef sautéed with green peppers and served with a brandy cream sauce wasn’t up to Clair de Lune’s usual standards; the meat was slightly overdone and stringy, but at least it was edible. The duck looked like a duck and was sauced à l’orange, but our knife had difficulty slicing through the frozen center. Luckily our dependable bus boy was nearby and he returned the bird to what we feared would be the microwave. Instead Mr. Hyde appeared minutes later with the duck sliced (by a chain saw?) and a steak knife resting on the plate. Our neighbor’s cats loved it. 5934 Royal Ln. @ Preston Rd. 214-987-2028. $$.
French Room. This is the prettiest dining room in Dallas. The rococo-style, cherub-flown ceiling, Versailles-length drapes, and candlelight make it the kind of place that doesn’t mesh with the modern world. It’s only natural to expect perfect food that matches the fairy-tale room. Sweetbread schnitzel is perfect, placed on a bed of asparagus ragout. Lamb ribeye is precisely matched with rosemary goal cheese polenta and tomato confit with basil, combining every Mediterranean high note in a single dish. Hotel Adolphus, 1321 Commerce St. 214-742-8200, $$$.
Lavendou. Despite the fact that our waiter didn’t know the difference between smooth and coarse paté, someone in the kitchen cooks with a French accent. Delicious French specialities come garnished à la Francaise within an inch of their life: For instance, a tender tilapia came tucked in a tutu-like frill of purple kale, decorated with two swishes and a curl of orange red pepper sauce. 19009 Preston Rd. 972-248-1911.$$-$$$.
Lola. The quaint Victorian cottage dial once housed Barclays is now home to Lola. Chef Jamie Samford smartly stuck with the user-friendly, fixed-price menu filled with excellent wild mushroom soup, grilled cumin-rubbed mahi mahi, and cider-roasted pork tenderloin. Although the warm pineapple drizzled with rum sauce served beside a scoop of house-made vanilla bean ice cream takes first prize, every other dessert is a close second. 2917 Fairmount St. 214-855-0700. $$-$$$.
Old Warsaw. Hanging on to a reputation as one of Dallas’ oldest elite restaurants is tough, but La Vielle Varsovie is valiant. It takes effort to find much fault with the food -from appetizers to dessert, the meal is an anachronistic treat. Servers, however, are only acceptably pleasant. 2610MapleAve.214-528-0032.$$$.
Paris Bistrot Paris Bistrot spills out onto McKinney like a sidewalk cafe in Paris. We’re infatuated with the classic duck confit. coarse paté campagne, delicately julienned and turned vegetables, and lamb shank with rich creamy risotto. Chocolate mousse is the real thing. 2533 McKinney Ave. 214-720-0225,$$.
The Riviera. Chef Tom Fleming’s roasted rack of lamb swaddled in cracked black pepper and sautéed maple leaf duck breast served with a sour cherry baked apple compote are just two reasons The Riviera is at the top of every five-star dining list. Any night is reason enough to celebrate with a warm apple streusel and a scoop of Calvados ice cream paired with a glass of Moet & Chandon brut Rose. 7709 Inwood Rd. 214-351-0094. $$$.
D REVISITS St. Martin’s. The sign on the door instructs diners to turn off all cell phones, and we suggest you don’t risk the waiters’ wrath by disobeying. If your office calls during appetizers, you may not see your entrée. After nearly 25 years of serving French bistro classics in an intimate red-carpet dining room softly lit with large crystal chandeliers. St. Martin’s is doing its best to keep romantic dining alive in the age on pagers and Palm Pilots. Soft piano music twin kles from the front room, and when a chilled bottle of well-priced Chassagne Montrachet is tableside. you won’t care that you missed that call from the office. The service is impressive. Our witty waiter, perhaps too casual for some, made us laugh and charmed other couples around us. The food isn’t flashy, but the French-American fare is simply brilliant. We started with a chicken crepe covered in a champagne crème sauce that after one bite flooded us with memories of the gone-but-not-forgotten The Magic Pan in NorthPark. Chateaubriand is served as a single serving -a nice touch -and the flawless hollandaise was firm and never disintegrated into little yellow beads. Our only disappointment was the duck roasted with apricots and currants, which had a rubbery texture. But our neighbors didn’t have the same experience with theirs.
Unable to make one chocolate selection for dessert, we pitted the classic chocolate mousse against a chocolate terrine. Both were delicious, but if we had to pick a winner, we would have to say the mousse -impeccably light with fresh whipped cream-edged out the terrine. Not that we’re complaining. 3020 Greenville Ave. 214-826-0940. $$.
Voltaire. All the elements of fine dining have been taken to surreal extremes. The wine list is 15.000 strong. A small menu offers sophisticated seafood, poultry, and meat selections, including a lovely lobster harissa with garlic mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, and a warm Thai-scented sauce. 5150 Keller Springs Rd. @ Dallas North Tollway. 972-239-8988. $$$.
Watel’s. French food may be the latest trend on McKinney, but Watel’s has been the top French bistro on the block for 11 years. And the new, sleeker digs haven’t had any effect on the quality of the food. The menu, which has always contained unusual organ offerings like calf brains, veal kidneys, and sweetbreads, has weathered the wars of nouvelle cuisine. A splendid classic duck leg confit appropriately slips off the bone with each bite, and the accompanying risotto is just rich enough. 2719 McKinney Ave. 214-720-0323. $$.
We/Oui. After homogenizing Italian food ai Macaroni Grill, Phil Romano has set his sights on making coq au via as American as fried chicken. Despite the noise level, the average cuisine, and the in-your-face interior, we can’t love We/Oui-but we can’t hate il either. 100 Crescent Court. 214-220-3990. $$-$$$.
GOURMET TO GO
City Cafe To Go. Does anybody cook from scratch anymore? According to the servers at City Cafe To Go. most people don’t even know how to use a regular oven to reheat the precooked food they buy there. They all want microwave instructions. But for those of you who can handle it. most of the dishes (for instance, a thickly sliced rare leg of iamb with charred, sun-dried toma(oes) are tasty and reheat beautifully. 5757 Lovers Ln. 214-351-3366. $-$$.
Eatzi’s. Eatzi’s definitely lives up to its circus hype. Hear the strains of opera and waltz through the crowds collecting the already cooked makings of a gourmet dinner-down to the imported beer, fresh bread, and flowers. Or choose salads or sandwiches made to order. Checkout lines are infamously long. 3403 Oak LawnAve.214-526-1515.5. $
Izmir Deli. Dallas’ new fascination with Middle Eastern food means there have been long lines at Cafe Izmir since il opened. You can avoid those crowds by ordering in from the Izmir Deli, just down Greenville from the original cafe. Gyros, tenderloin, mozzarella. grilled vegetables, and chicken sandwiches, pita, hummus, couscous, and eggplant dip are all available for pick-up or phone-in orders. And this is the place to go if you need rosewater at 9 pan. 3607 Greenville Ave. 214-824-8484. $-$$.
GREEK
Kostas Cafe. If you can’t get to Greece anytime soon, sample the saganaki at Kostas. The fried kasseri cheese soaked in brandy comes to the table flaming and is ceremoniously doused with fresh lemon juice and a loud “Opa!” All the classics -spanakopila. moussaka, and sou-vlaki – are authentically prepared, and the family atmosphere makes eating off your neighbor’s plate seem like a warm gesture. 4914 Greenville Ave. 214-987-3225. $$.
Z Cafe. Pizza topped with gyro meat. feta. tomatoes, and olives and the potato balls are a legacy of the former Little Gus. Breakfast omelettes take on the flavor of the neighborhood when they’re tilled with chorizo, chili, and cheddar. The quintessential greasy spoon burger is a masterpiece topped with feta. grilled onions, and jalapenos. Breakfast and lunch only. 1924 HendersonAve.214-821-0991.$.
D BEST Zizlki’s. You can hardly get a prime-time table at this contemporary Greek cafe, and they don’t take reservations, except for large parties. But the herbed lamb souvlaki, folded in thick warm pita and sauced with tart yogurt, is worth a wait. Ziziki’s menu has featured the same idiosyncratic version of Mediterranean food since it opened-it’s a good tiling some things don’t change. 4514 Travis St., Ste. 122.214-521-2233; 15707 CoitRd.,Ste. A.972-991-4433 $$
HOME COOKING
Barbec’s. Barbec’s regulars love the tabloid newsprint menu, the hearty, what-can-1-get-you-Hon? waitresses, the awesome anytime breakfasts. The food ranges from pretty good to good.but it’s all cheap. And they’ve always got those legendary beer biscuits, sweet and high and truly loved by all. Great meringues. 8949 Garland Rd. 214-321-5597. $.
Natalie’s. It’s the ultimate neighborhood spot: The portions are large: the prices are small. The meatloaf is a popular choice: For $7.95 you get an 8-by-3-inch slab of finely ground meat with a light tomato sauce on top. mixed crisp steamed vegetables, and a hunk of mashed potatoes. But the secret to Natalie’s success is the cinnamon rolls. We always order extra to take home for the next morning. 5944 Royal Ln. 214-739-0362.$.
INDIAN
India Palace. India Palace has long been considered one the best Indian restaurants in town. Recently merged with Bombay Cricket Club, we found the luster lacking. Service was unhelpful, so it was fortunate we knew what we wanted and it was easy – biryani, fragrant and studded with fruits, nuts, and lamb-and delicious. The Vegetable Bhojan was an institutional presentation but tasted good. 12817 Preston Rd. 972-392-0190. $$.
Madras Pavilion. The unforgettable aromas of jasmine, coriander, and turmeric greet you at the door. Lunch is an Indian food orgy buffet that includes unusual (for Dallas) Northern Indian specialties-a bargain at S6.99. In the evening, you can choose from an extensive menu that includes a large list of dosai (thin rice crêpes with vegetarian fillings) and vadas (cruncgy lentil cakes). Cold raita, fresh coriander leaves, salads of chopped carrots, cucumber, and onions, are just a few of the refreshing condiments supplied to ease the heat. 101 S. Coit @ Belt Line Rd., Dal Rich Shopping Center. 972-671-3672.$-$$.
ITALIAN
Alfonso’s. If you don’t live in East Dallas, it’s time to load the kids in the car and take a round trip for dinner. Basic Italian favorites are cooked the old-fashioned way-heavy on the garlic and butter. Chicken Francese and the hot homemade garlic {and we mean garlic) rolls are alone worth the trip. Lake Highland Village, 718 N. Buckner Blvd. @ Northcliff Dr. 214-327-7777.$.
Avanti Avanti has maintained the feel of a small, intimate neighborhood cafe in spite of every obstacle. The fried calamari with tomato and basil sauce is greaseless, and the crunchy batter is light and tasty. We’re slightly disappointed 1 with (he grilled veal medallions, but the Italian I sausage seasoned with lots of fennel and sauteed with onions and bell peppers on top of angel hair pasta covered in a light marinara is gutsier. 2720 McKinney Ave. 214-871-4955.$$.
Cafe Cipriani. This is one of the best Italian restaurants in town. Owner Sal vino Zannetti doesn’t compromise on his ingredients; lie orders his cheese from a deli in New York -as close to Italy as you can gel in Dallas. And the lasagna is the real standout -layers of homemade noodles, with just enough ground veal to give the dish substance without making il too I heavy. 220 Las Colinas Blvd., Irving. 972-869-0713.$$.
Cafe Expresso. Owner Dieter Paul offers an uncomplicated list of Italian specialties. Pastas and sauces are mix and match, and the same goes for the thin crusty individual pizzas. The kitchen also knocks out above average veal scaloppini with lemon butter and capers and the nightly specials (maybe a pecan-crusted flounder) never disappoint. 6135 Luther Ln. I 214-361 -6984 .$$.
Isola Gozo. The parking lot just doesn’t help the ambience. But the best you can hope for from a restaurant in NorthPark is some retail compatibility. Thin-crusted pizza is always the star- a perfectly proportioned layering of bread and topping, just held together with cheese. The fare at Isola Gozo is sophisticated and good and deserves a better setting. The Market, NorthPark Center. Park Ln. @ Central Expwy. 214-691-0488.$$.
Mangia e Bevi, The interior is borderline hokey. but the food is anything but contrived. After all. Alberto Lombardi hasn’t survived 23 years in the restaurant business slinging mediocre meatballs. Small plates of Italian specialties combined with full orders of homemade gnocchi tossed in a creamy pesto sauce, rich porcini risotto flavored with white truffle oil, and a separate pizzeria make Mangia e Bevi a great neighborhood joint. 2504 McKinney Ave.214-303-1102.$-$$. 7
D BEST Mi Pical’ Housemade is a tenu Mi Piaci doesn’t take lightly -me kitchen makes its own pastas and cures its own meats. Every other ingredient is either imported or hand-picked. A bowl of die Tuscan classic ribollita could be enough for a meal. But don’t neglect the spicy penne arrabbiata. the three thin scallops of veal perched on a pile of portobello mushrooms, or the asparagus and cheese tortelli-ni with a fragile Marsala sauce. 14854 Montfort Dr. 972-934-8424. $$-$$$.
D BEST Modo Mio. Chef owner Rino Brigliadori’s small traditional rustic Italian menu is consistently dependable, starting with the asparagus, eggplant, and goat cheese antipasto and finishing with die softly sweetened sorbets. In between we have always been happy ordering gnocchi Modo Mio. but special sea bass in tomato broth is an offering we will never refuse. 18352 Dallas Pkwy. 972-671-6636.$$.
Patrizio. Move over. Campisi’s. Patrizio’s signature crab claws just took first place in the crab claws competition. Soft and delicate, they slip off the exoskeleton and melt in your mouth like, well, butter. Oh, yes -you should eal dinner, too: There’s the chicken and mushroom lasagna (good, but rich) and the baked ziti (we had leftovers for breakfast). The prices aren’t what you’d expect with Escada and Calvin Klein just a kiss away. Highland Park Village, Mockingbird Ln. @ Preston Rd. 214-522-7878; 1900 Preston Rd.. Ste. 343, Piano. 972-964-2200.$$.
Pavarotti’s. Pavarolti’s is one of the few places in North Dallas where parents can escape for a quick, semi-romantic meal. The baked lasagna is a delightful casserole layered with noodles, meal, and cheese that somehow remains light. The linguine Pavarotti loaded with shrimp and chicken sautéed in a garlic white wine sauce is all the reason we need to return. 6757 Arapaho Rd.. 972-991-2828.$$.
Rodofpho’s. American I950s-style Italian food is the order of the day – hefty lasagna and only average chicken parmigiana. We’ve never had the nerve to try anything from the “pasta with berries” section of the menu; we just stick to the angel hair pasta with spinach balls. The dumplings of ricotta and spinach scented with nutmeg make a wonderful light meal. 5956 Royal Ln. @ Preston Rd. 214-368-5039. $$.
D BEST Salve! Like sister restaurant Mi Piaci, home style Tuscan is the backbone of Salve!. Casual all-day dining in the bar features pizza, ealzones, and panini. In the evenings, the extensive menu in the elegant dining room is the perfect opportunity for a sophisticated Italian feast. Brodetta Adriatica, a pile of clams, mussels. shrimp,and lobster is as fresh as a Medilcrranean breeze perfumed with saffron. 2120 McKinney Ave. 214-220-OO7O. $$-$$$.
Terilli’s. A Lower Greenville fixture, Terilli’s packs in a semi-sophisticated crowd for such-as-it-is jazz and an eclectic menu featuring the signature item with the silly name: “Italcho’s” (crisp chips of pizza dough topped with mozzarella and a choice of loppings). Food ranges from pretty good to so-so. but devotees find that Terilli’s is more than the sum of its parts. 2815 Greenville Ave, 214-827-3993.$$.
JAPANESE
The Blue Fish. This is high-lech sushi at its finest. Pulsating music makes conversation nearly impossible, but the extremely fresh mackerel, scallops, and yellowtail cheek do all the talking. Dishes from the Yakatori kitchen lack the high quality of the sushi bar. The whimsical menagerie of fresh animal-shaped oranges is a clever ending to every meal. 3519 Greenville Ave. 214-824-3474.$$,
Ghaya Sushi. The tuna roll is lean, deep red. and fresh. From the robata bar. try the chargrilled sirloin-thinly sliced, bite-sized morsels of rare tenderloin dipped in ponzu sauce. Gulf shrimp, satiléed in a light ginger sauce, is fragrant and firm. And our all-time favorite dish -simple to make, hut hard to make well -is the mise soup. We believe this hot. nourishing version has healing properties. 101 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 214-361-0220.$$.
Flshbowl. The small hut ambitious menu reflects the 1960s Pan-Asian concept: Trader Vic’s-style cocktails, sushi, sake, and noodles, all served tapas-style one small plate at a time. A meal is a series and may include a best seller like peanut chicken satay as well as Stephan Pyles” innovative version of mu shu pork tacos served with thai basil slaw. Every Tuesday the kitchen features seasonal crab specialty dishes. Dinner only. 3214 Knox St. 214-521-2695.
D BEST Nakamoto. Service tends to range from sublime to abrupt at this stylish, roomy Piano institution, but cuisine (tempura. sushi, and sashimi) remains uniformly excellent. 3309 N. Central Expwy. (§’ Parker Rd.. Piano. 972-881-0328.5$.
Royal Tokyo. It’s a hibachi steak room, it’s a sushi bar (Dallas’ first), and it’s a show palace. You can leave your shoes at the door and eat in one of their Tamali Rooms or sit around grill tables where Japanese chefs perform slice and dice like Samurai warriors. It’s a great way to get kids to eat their vegetables. 7525 Greenville Ave. 214-368-3304. $$.
Tel Tei. We still haven’t tasted the kobe beef (which comes from cattle fed with beer and massaged with sake), but Tei Tei is a destina-lion restaurant anyway, The “kinki fish” is a whole fish (snapper) slashed to the bone, so the flesh lifts out easily with chopsticks. To eat the soft-shell crab, abandon the Eastern eating utensils and resort to the God-given: lingers. 2906 N. Henderson Ave. 214-828-2400.$$-$$$.
LATIN AMERICAN
Caribbean Grill. Jumbo shrimp marinated in coconut milk, lightly fried and rolled in coconut shreds is one of the best appetizers we’ve had all year. Jerk chicken is moist inside, with a thin crusty coating of spiees: and the dipping sauce is a killer honey-mustard concoction spiced with hot relish (chow) from Trinidad. Stay busy with their large selection of bottled hot sauces and soothe your burning tongues with homemade Key lime pie. 3068 Forest Ln. 972-241-9113, $-$$.
Samba Room. It’s impossible not to feel transported to an exotic Havana night-huge palm trees: windows covered by wooden-slat shutters; warm browns, ochre, and cobalt blue set the mellow, sexy tone for the whole room. Arepas – beef marinated in sherry, cooked with onion and peppers, then shredded into a mound and surrounded by triangles of griddled sweet com cakes topped with a slight drizzle of sour cream-are superb.
A silver martini shaker filled with long, thin strips of Yuca Frita-fried yuca seasoned with lime and garlic-makes French fries obsolete. 4514TravisSl.2l4-522-4l37.$$.
Texas de Brazil. No need for menus here -it’s one price fits all. Skewer-swagging waiters slice varied cuts of slow-roasted (and extremely flavorful) filet, pieanha, rack of lamb, top sirloin, and pork loin from their swords right onto your plate. The salad bar features 30 hefty items besides salad, including tabbouleh and marinated mushrooms, and the required feijoa-da (the national dish of Brazil), 15101 Addison Rd. 972-385-1000: 2727 Cedar Springs Rd. 214-720-1414. $$$.
MEDITERRANEAN
Avanti Euro Bistro. The menu at this sexy spot circles the Mediterranean Sea. featuring French. Moroccan, and Middle Eastern delights. We marveled at a truly traditional veal Francaise delicately swirled with a cognac demi-glace and a Chicken Marrakesh bursting with a saffron lime flavor. Skip the crème brulée and go straight for the fresh pear poached in vintage port stuffed with a dollop of buttery mascarpone. 5001 Addison Circle. Addison! 972-386-7800. $$.
II Sole, Chef Tim Penn focuses on Mediterranean food, sometimes to brilliant effect. Long fingers of tender pan-fried calamari dip easily into a spicy red chile sauce. Wonderful warm putanesca pasta crowded with kalamata olives, capers, tomatoes, and garlic pops with flavor. Nice by-the-glass wine selection. 4515 Travis St. 214-559-3888. $$-$$$.
Popolos. Popolos has reopened and most of the original staff and popular menu items are back. One visit we sat at the bar and nibbled thin-crusted pizza layered with tomato, kalamata olives, capers, and garlic. Another night we feasted on the always dependable (and enough for two) chicken piccata. For those without elastic-waist pants, the fat-free angel food cake bruschetta is a guilt-free ending. 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 214-692-5497.$$.
D BEST Suze. The attitude is casual, sophisticated, and neighborhood friendly. The food is a funky blend of Mediterranean fare that rotates continually and includes Prince Edward Island mussels steamed in coconut milk, cilantro. and chipotle broth that should not be missed. Former Toscana wiz Gilbert Garza has proved he is a chef to be reckoned with -his double cut pork chops rubbed with red curry and topped with dried cherry sauce is a gastronomic work of art. 4345 W. Northwest Hwy. @ Midway Rd. 214-350-6135.$$.
MEXICAN
D BEST Avila’s. At Avila’s you can find all the flavors of Mexican food without the lard. Chili relleno isn’t battered and deep-fried; it’s gently roasted and stuffed with cheese or meat and covered in a light ranchera sauce. Enchiladas can be customized from a mix-and-match ingredients menu and is a must for vegetarians looking for a Tex-Mex fix. 4714 Maple Ave. 214-520-2700. $.
D BEST Ciudad. Monica Greene, the genius behind Monica’s Aca y Alla, ups her own ante by delivering dishes based on true Mexico City-style cuisine. Tender barbequed pork wrapped in fresh com tortillas mix easily with a tropical fruit salsa, and an 8-ounce beef tenderloin topped with melted asadero cheese is surrounded with a spicy red tomato sauce with a side of epazote-scented black beans. Par favor, save room for elegant desserts. 3888 Oak Lawn Ave.. Ste. 135.214-219-3141.$$-$$$.
Cristina’s. Our experiences here have been hit and miss. Cristina’s Platter is always a splendid array of tasty quesadillas.taquitos, empanadas. and tortilla-crusted shrimp. Everything we’ve tried ranged from good {steak poblano) to inedible {chicken enchiladas). The staff is charming, and every meal -good or bad-ends with a lovely complementary round of warm coffee liquor. 4021 Midway Rd. @ Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 972-386-0082. Multiple locations. $$.
Cuquita’s. You won’t find a list of Tex-Mex combination plates or even a margarita here, but you will find authentic specialties like beef tongue simmering in a pepper-studded tomato sauce and tender fillets of pork sautéed with onions and spices. Everything goes down easy with a glass of freshly squeezed lemonade or a Bohemia. 2326 N. Henderson Ave. 214-823-1859. $. Beer only.
Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Javier’s hook is Mexico City Mexican food, and the atmosphere isn’t Tex-Mex kitschy but sophisticated. Salsa is nicely warmed, and margaritas are the real thing. Filete Cantmflas may look like a fried puck, hut inside the stiff crust is a cheese-stuffed filet mignon with a brick-colored chile sauce -it’s too rich to eat and too good not to try. 4912 Cole Ave. 214-521-4211. $$
La Galle Doce. The new Lakewood digs has the same menu and quality as the popular Oak Cliff location. Undoubtedly the best Mexican seafood in town, the fresh cold seafood cocktails-octopus, ceviche. and oysters -are full of spicy tomato sauce with chunks of celery and green peppers. The grilled whole catfish served with rice and vegetables shouldn’t be missed. 1925 Skillman St. 214-824-9900; 415 W. 12th St. 214-941 -4304. $$.
Luna De Noche. The secret is out in Garland. Luna Noche is playing in the Mexican food big leagues with stellar versions of cheese enchiladas, guacamole. and nachos. Thankfully the margaritas are more sour than sweet, and the Polio Pepian is a juicy chicken breast simmering in delicious chicken broth, ancho chile, and pecan sauce. The fruit flaulas are the best dessert find around. 7602 Jupiter Rd. @ Lookout Dr., Garland. 972-414-3616. $-$$. Margaritas.
D BEST Matt’s Rancho Martinez, The place is filled with the faithful at every meal because the flautas are the best in Dallas, the chile relleno is food for the gods, and even a combination plate satisfies, if you don’t mind processed cheese. 6332 La Vista Dr. 214-823-5517. $-$$.
D BEST Monica’s Acay Alla. Monica Greene continues to serve the best food bargains in town. Most lunches are less than $5, and the choices are not your normal Tex-Mex combinations. We’ve gorged on green enchiladas, mushroom quesadillas, and spinach-jalapeno fettuccine with chicken, roasted corn, cilantro, and black beans in a cream shallot béchamel sauce. Tuesday food is half-price and Wednesday’s freshly squeezed lime margaritas are only 50 cents. 2914 Main St. 214-748-7140.
Pene & Mito’s. The vivid wails and bright lights mean this cafe looks noisy even though it’s not usually crowded. It should be-chips worth mentioning (thick, warm, slightly overcooked), cilantro-laced salsa, and standards like nachos and enchiladas are excellent. Tamales are utterly remarkable, and chicken and beef taquitos are still some of the best in town. 2935 Elm St. 214-741-1901. $. Margaritas.
Prfmo’s. On the “Mex” side of the Tex-Mex fare, enchiladas come with cheddar cheese gurgling in thick chili con carne and topped with more cheese. The cheese-test continues with a “Tex” version of a chili relleno: a cheese-stuffed poblano pepper, dipped in a queso and egg batter, then deep-fried. The amount of money the kitchen spends on cheese could probably put a man on the moon -there is even grated cheese on the side salads. We ate it all. 3309 McKinney Ave. 214-220-0510.$.
Rafa’s. We love the seasoned red snapper topped with crabmeat, wrapped in foil, and cooked in its natural juices. The full-on Tex-Mex regulars of hefty beef enchiladas and sour cream chicken enchiladas never fail. And we never leave without sinfully submerging a sopaipilla dusted with powdered sugar into a warm ramekin of honey. 5917 Lovers Ln. 214-357-2080. $-$$.
Sol’s. The goal here seems to be to offer pretty good Mexican food in a pretty comfortable place to folks who live pretty close. Sol’s has found a niche where old-fashioned combina-lion plates-oozing enchiladas, rich chili gravy, deep-fried flautas, and lush gua-camole – are all that’s required. Nachos come with a pile of sliced jalapenos, margaritas have plenty of tequila, and the set is tuned to Mexican TV. Really, what more do you want on a Sunday evening? o434 Mockingbird Ln. 214-82l-79’lI.$-$$.
Taco Diner. The name sounds slightly retro. But the tacos at the Diner are real Mexican soft tacos, not drive-through, crunchy. greasy Tex-Mex mutations. The com tortillas are the star here; no matter what you wrap them around, the result is good -chicken with cojita cheese, grilled pork, and meaty mushrooms are all complemented by the fragrant masa tortillas. Service is hit-or-miss.40l I Villanova Dr. 214-696-4944.$. Margaritas.
MIDDLE EASTERN
Al-Amir. The Mediterranean meets the rising sun at Al Amir, which took the place of a Japanese restaurant. The result is an odd, melting-pot ambience. Concentrate on the plate -Middle Eastern expectations are well-met with good renditions of hummus, baba ghanoush, and lamb. Bui there are also some less well-known dishes to try. 7402 Greenville Ave. 214-739-2647.$$.
Basna. Basha was one of the first in the wave of Middle Eastern restaurants that have opened in Dallas in the last few years. And it remains one of the best of a good lot. The menu is less predictable than many of Dallas* Lebanese restaurants, offering dishes outside the usual selection of hummus, baba ghanoush. rice, and grilled everything. Breast of chicken breaded in crushed pistachios is an excellent idea -so is fragrant lamb shank, cooked till it is stew on the bone. Okay, hummus is good, too. 2217 Greenville Ave. 214-824-7794.$$.
D BEST Cafe Izmir. This remains one of the best little restaurants in Dallas. The space is small, the service is friendly, and the choices are simple-all you have to say is “meat” or “veg” and the food starts coming. The mezes platter-hummus, baba ghanoush. and Russian chicken salad, all designed to spread on warm pita bread -is a regular. Wash it down with a bottle of the Boutari. and you’ll be happy. 3711 Greenville Ave.214-826-7788.$$.
Queen of Sheba. Go straight to the Queen’s Dinner-an Ethiopian feast that includes almost every specialty on the menu (including spectacular spicy lamb stew), all presented on a beautiful silver platter. The banquet, a bargain at $30 per person, also includes a special rose water hand-washing ceremony that comes in handy after scooping up the last bit of pureed lentils with injera-a spongy sourdough-type bread, 3527 McKinney Ave. Lemmon Ave. 214-521-0491.$$.
MOROCCAN
D BEST Marrakesh. Just what is Moroccan cuisine, and what is it doing in Dallas? It is lamb and couscous and fresh vegetables spiced with mysterious combinations of nutmeg, paprika, and cumin -wonderful. The Moroccan Feast-a sample of almost everything on the menu -is a bargain ai $26.95 per person. Vibrant Middle-Eastern music accompanies a veiled belly dancer in a purple bra who gyrates and finger-cymbals her way around the room. 5207 W. Lovers Ln. 214-357-4104.$$.
NEW AMERICAN
Antares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-high, revolving restaurant appears to be finding its wings at last. Huge sea scallops were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes and shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a roasted shallot vinaigrette. Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion Blvd. 214-651-1234.$$-$$$.
Beau Nash. The beautiful dining room is aging gracefully, and the light-sparkled, romantic conservatory at night remains one of the delights of Dallas dining. The Cobb salad and smoked chicken corn chowder still win Best of Kind, and desserts are a dream-try the rich pillow of mocha mousse sandwiched between two dark chocolate cake slices. Hotel Crescent Court. 22J5 Cedar Springs Rd. 214-871-3240. $$-$$$.
Chaparral Club. The ancho-rubbed chicken (with bones!) can be a little salty, but the creamy goat-cheese stuffing guarantees moist meat. The bone-in filet, along with truffled mashed potatoes and cubed root vegetables sautéed together, make a plate that satisfies all senses. Don’t miss The Perfect Dessert: a satiny sphere of white chocolate split and filled with fresh blueberries and raspberries sliding around in a pool of crème Anglaise. Adam’s Mark Hotel. 400 N. Olive St. 214-922-8000. $$-$$$.
Guthrie’s. Luckily Guthrie’s sits next to our parking lot downtown. That makes it easy to dash over for a quick luncheon comfort-food fix of roasted chicken and mashed potatoes. Chef William Guthrie gets creative at night and turns out brilliant versions of pork schnitzel with sautéed mushroom and a killer version offish and chips. 400 S. Ervay St. 214-760-7900.$-$$.
D BEST Laurels. The lights of downtown twinkle like Oz on die horizon, but the best views here are on the plate. A warm spinach and calamari salad is edible art and the tequila-cured gravlax is made in chef Danielle Custer’s kitchen. Finally, the exquisite sumac-marinated lamb rack with licorice and mint sauce has grown from a nightly special to a regular menu specialty. Westin Park Central. 12720 Merit Dr. 972-385-3000. $$$.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. This isn’t dinner; It’s a dining experience. A dramatic, country club-tike, members-only dining experience. The Grande Dame of Dallas dining continues to live up to ils legend-the atmosphere is inimitably posh, and the food is predictably innovative. The price? If you have to ask. you can’t afford it. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 214-526-2121,$$$. “
The Mercury. Chef Chris Ward has taken control of the kitchen and is doing a bang-up job. A normally pedestrian potato soup was delivered thick and hot. and the aruguia pesto drizzled on top provided the perfect kick of flavor. Two savory pork chops resting easily beside a creamy rosemary risotto was easy on the eye and palate. 1418 Preston Forest Sq. 972-960-7774. $$.
Parigi. Menus still change weekly, and the food is prepared to order, by hand. Service can be a little flaky, but the food – specials and perennials -is excellent. The famous beef tenderloin with mustard sauce and “smashed” potatoes is as good as ever, the beef rare and unusually flavorful, the potatoes buttery and just lumpy. It’s been on the menu since Parigi opened-a long time. 3311 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-521-0295.$$.
York Street Don’t blink as you drive by or you’ll miss the delicious New American specialties blended with a few flourishes from France. We love the pork chop with chipotle cream sauce and the roasted duck with fresh blueberries. The service is friendly and efficient, and the charming 12-table dining room is snug and comfortable. 6047 Lewis St, 214-826-0968. $$-$$$.
SEAFOOD
AquaKnox. Since the lounge was turned into Fishbowl. the sexy blue chenille dining room of AquaKnox feels like half a restaurant. The décor isn’t the only boat that’s been rocked here. We’ve had a good meal -brilliantly seared beef tenderloin w ith chipotle mashed potatoes -and we’ve had a bad meal -salty red snapper with gooey corn pudding. But overall Stephan Pyles seems to have steadied the course with the addition of new executive chef Ethan Powell. 3214 Knox St, 214-219-2782.$$$.
D BEST Cafe Paific. Cafe Pacific continues to delight as one of Dallas’ most reliable luncheon and dinner restaurants. as well as the place to witness the social structure of Dallas’ power people in action. Menu favorites like calamari. clam chowder. Caesar salad, salmon, and red snapper are superbly prepared and presented by an experienced staff. 24 Highland Park Village. 214-526-1170. $$-$$$.
Fish. After a long floal in troubled waters. Fish has plugged up the holes in the sinking standard of their food. The laurel-scented Chilean sea bass with roasted sweet peppers and leeks has been tweaked and now includes jumbo shrimp and ginger rice. Delicious grilled, pepper-crusted sea scallops served on hot creamy risotto-flavored with lemon, red peppers, and sweet basil is a comfort and a delight. 302 S. Houston St. 214-747-3474.$$$.
Lombardi Mare. Few seafood kitchens in town offer as many varieties of fresh oysters. Recently we were served a disappointing plate of polcnta-crusted salmon, but the pasta covered with lobster, shrimp, scallops, crabmeat. and asparagus restored our faith in Alberto Lombardi’s touch, Perfect selling and food to impress out-of-towners. Village on the Parkway, Montfort Dr. @ Belt Line Rd. 972-503-1233.$$$.
Mainstream While the oilier locations have drifted downstream, the Preston Forest neighborhood still lines up for casual seafood at reasonable prices. We can’t bring ourselves to eat seafood slew oui of a bread bowl, and the jumbo fried shrimp dinner is no better than average. 11661 Preston Rd. @ Forest Ln. 214-739-3474. $-$$. Margaritas.
Newport’s. Enjoy an imaginative seafood menu that we classify loosely as New England seafood with Asian and Cajun influences. Grilled tilapia is served with a side of sautéed apples, cilantro, and toasted pecans. And the tuna is a three-inch pan-scared hunk served in a bowl of rice and covered with sautéed portobel-los and roasted peppers -almost wonderful, except for the lake of teriyaki sauce drowning the rice. 703 McKinney Ave. 214-954-0220. $$-$$$.
Nicholini’s. Don’t be fooled by the neon lights outside, because once you’re seated in the sexy dining room, the dining experience is elegant. We love the herb-crusted orange roughy sauced sparingly with citrus paprika glaze. Attentive service and consistent food have the tables packed with neighborhood diners who all seem to know each other. 17370 Preston Rd. 972-735-9868.$$.
D BEST S&D Oyster Company, S&D can do anything with shrimp, and they have been doing it for longer than we care to remember (or admit we do). The fried shrimp is so delicately breaded you can still see the pink-skinned flesh through the crust. Then it’s butter-flied. lightly fried, and served with a dollop of tartar sauce-heavy on the pickle. And no meal here would be complete without a slice of the famous Key lime pie. 2701 McKinney Ave. 214-880-011L$$.
Truluck’s Stoak & Stone Crab. Yes, Truluck’s lias a large array of seafood and steak specialties, but the main reason to eat here is the crab claws. They serve four varieties- medium, large, jumbo, and colossal. Rccently we conducted a taste test, ordering four different plates of pre-cracked claws. After much fork-fighting, we decided we loved the sweet fresh meal lucked inside all of them. Al Truluck’s, size doesn’t matter, 5001 Bell Line Rd.. Addison. 972-503-3079: 2401 McKinney Ave.. 214-220-2401. $$-$$$.
Vincent’s. This place hasn’t conformed to any current low-fat or global-spice trends; the signature Red Snapper a la Vincent’s is still a deli-ciously rich filet, lightly breaded, sautéed in loads of lemon butter, and topped with a huge clump of fresh crab. There is lighter side: A lovely broiled halibut is sauced with about half the snapper’s butler. The whole experience is completely unhip and. therefore, completely comforting. 2432 Preston Rd. @ Park Blvd.. Piano. 972-612-6208. $S-$SS.
SOUTHWESTERN
Blue Mesa. Blue Mesa has wisely stuck with its original concept of Southwestern fare: The table-side guacamole is truly a marvel, with avocados as smooth as congealed cream. Adobe pie. the signature dish, is as good as ever, as is the warm salsa and yam and tortilla chips. 7700 W. Northwest Hwy. 214-378-8686; 5100 Belt Line Rd. 972-934-0165.$$.
No Place. Tender elk sirloin and boneless rabbit are sided with sautéed portobello mushrooms and onions. Beiter-than-beef chicken-fried venison comes with Man’s famous smoked mashed potatoes. The food is why Matt Martinez Jr. is a legend-in his own neighborhood, anyway. 6325 La Vista Dr. 214-328-9078.$$-$$$.
D BEST Star Canyon. Chef-owner Stephan Pyles has created a Dallas destination with his Innovative “New Texas Cuisine.” An appetizer of fried green tomatoes stacked high with layers of Dallas-made mozzarella is a rare case of tall food lasting as good as it looks. And the bone-in cowboy ribeye on a bed of pinto beans, covered with a mound of shoestring onion rings dusted with red chile, should be listed in Fodor’s under Dallas’ top attractions. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-520-7827. $$-$$$,
D REVISITS Tin Star Somehow the folks at Tin Siar have corralled the frenetic lumchtime atmosphere into an atypical fast-food joint serving inspired Southwestern renditions of soft tacos. chicken-fried steak, and breakfast burritos. First-timers prepare for baille. Once you open the door, you’ll most likely be assaulted by a mob of diners deep in a game of “Beat the Dining Clock.” Diners zoom in and around each other and dash from the drink station in the back, through the maze of people waiting to order. From all four corners, red blinking pagers signaling “order up!” add to the “Designer Taco Meets Star Trek” vibe. Smartly, management set a griddle in the middle of the madness providing not only an easy-lo-find starting point, but also free munchies while you decide on your meal. And decisions don’t come easy. The soft taeos are lops-each combination of fillings is an innovative juxtaposition of Tex and Mex. How long has it been since you tried a roasted pork with red onion jalapeho marmalade, queso cotijo, radish, and cilantro taco? Well, that’s too long. 2626 Howell St. (across from the Quadrangle). 214-999-0059: 2208 Dallas Pkwy.. Piano. 972-403-1765.S. Margaritas.
Y.O. Ranch. Though this is frontier fare, the kitchen can have a light touch. Delicately grilled, semi-boneless quail is delicious, and the special two-inch, 12-ounce pork chop is as moist and tender as a filet mignon. However, the buck stops short with an undercooked top sirloin. And the bar scene rocks with Jerry Jeff Walker tunes and cigar-smoking buckaroos – the perfect place to lake your Yankee guests. 702 Ross Ave. 214-744-3287. $-$$.
SPANISH
Barcelona. Tapas in Spain, of course, are Spanish food. Greenville Avenue is global. So Barcelona serves snack food from all over the world, such as chicken satay. mezes, and tab-bouleh. as well as tortilla, the slacked potato omelet that is the quintessential Spanish tapa. and the buffalo burger-juicy and lean-on a toasted roll. 2100 Greenville Ave. 214-826-8600.$.
D BEST Cafe Madrid. Dallas ’first tapas bar remains ils best, and everybody knows it. Even midweek, this Utile two-room restaurant has customers waiting at the bar for one of the mismatched tables in the storefront space. For those who insist, there is a prix-fixe, three-course dinner menu, but Cafe Madrid is a great place to linger over a succession of small dishes -an assortment of olives, oxtail stew, the potato omelette called a tortilla,and braised lamb slices. 4501 Travis St. 214-528-1731.$$.
Seville at the Stoneleigh. The menu is more than tapas at this upscale Spanish dining room that resembles chichi spots in Spain. Five varieties of paella headline the show and a tenderly braised rabbit comes served hunter-style in rich brown gravy that accents the mild-flavored meat. An extensive list of tapas makes it easy to make a meal with a combination of small plates. 2927 Maple Ave. 214-871-7111,$$$.
STEAKHOUSES
Al Biernat’s. The dinner menu’s specialty section features prime rib. rack of lamb, and jumbo lobsters. The entrees reveal the imagination of a chef who has more on his mind than meat. The sea bass is moist, but the two mainstays-steak and lobster-are a problem. As for the lunch menu, the steak sandwich comes off well, and so do the slices of grilled and balsamic-dressed portobello mushroom and tomato fanned around a hummock of baked goat cheese. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-219-2201. $$-$$$.
D BEST Bob’s Steak and Chop House. We usually forego filets, preferring a more flavorful cut, but the three-inch nine-ounce is beautifully marbled and cooked perfectly pink and tender. It’s impossible not to love the “smashed” potatoes -they’re wickedly mashed with about a stick of butter in each serving. And the slight sweet glaze on Bob’s signature whole carrots side dish is a nice contrast to the beef. The atmosphere here is as comfortable as your grandmother’s dining room, but the restaurant is crowded with the Ross Perot and Jerry Jones set. 4300 Lemmon Ave, 214-528-9446. $$-$$$.
Capital Grille. Normally we wouldn’t touch a high-dollar surf-and-turf chain restaurant with a 10-foot expense account, but here we make an exception. An 18-ounce Delmonico strip almost two inches thick was served hot on the outside with a cool pink center. But the surf stole our hearts -lobster filled with lightly breaded chunks of lobster, rock crab, and shrimp was a tasty bargain at $65. 500 Crescent Ct. 214-303-0500. $$$.
D BEST Chamberlain’s. Richard Chamberlain makes tine dining simple and elegant. You won’t rind any singing cowboys or 20-page wine lists. Prime rib. a beautiful hand-cut aged beef, is perfectly seasoned with coarse salt and chunks of fresh cracked black pepper. We could pass on the meal here and still be happy with bowls of green beans and mushrooms sauteed in garlic and buttered corn freshly shucked from the cob. 5330 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 972-934-2467. $$-$$$.
Charolais. Clair and John Rubede (Clair de Lune) have opened a new steak joint with a French twist – the menu only offers France’s favorite Charolais beef. Bui the seafood entices rule. Redfish stuffed with shrimp and crab is delicately sauced with lemon butter and the broiled chicken isn’t just a token dish – c’est magnifique. 5950 Royal Ln. @ Preston Rd, 214-692-0900.$$$
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse. No complaints about the meats (and at these prices there shouldn’t be) -you could cut the porterhouse with a fork. But the onion rings are our favorite dish. Each three-inch ring has the perfect ratio of breading to onion, but somehow the fry doesn’t separate from the onion – you get baiter with every bile. The lobster tail isn’t worth the price. But this is one place where you get what you pay for. 5251 Spring Valley Rd. 972-490-9000, $$$.
Hick & Sam’s. Nick & Sam’s is a steakhouse first. but it’s trying-and succeeding-to be more. For instance, there’s a raw bar at the far end of the building, and the lobby bar area is a wine cellar with more than 300 wines. We ate the traditional steakhouse meal -a wedge salad with creamy lumps of Maytag blue cheese, surf-and-turf (snowy sweet lobster tail and soft filet), and a prime aged “cowboy steak” with sides. The most successful twist on the traditional steakhouse is the setting itself. This is not a faux men’s club -no brass, etched glass. or hunting paintings. 3008 Maple Ave. 214-871-7663. $$-$$$.
The Palm. Several times lately it seemed like the staff at The Palm were the ones out to lunch. After sending an undercooked steak back, our server was MIA while the rest of our party finished their entrées. As we attempted to eat a bizarre version of tiramisu. our dining companion finished her steak -not an acceptable experience al any price, but especially not al these. 701 Ross Ave.214-698-0470. $$-$$$.
Sullivan’s Steakhouse. The knockout punch is a 24-ounce, bone-in ribeye coaled with lots of fresh ground pepper, perfectly cooked to medium rare. Smoked pork chops are grilled and served with a side of sweet, smoked apples. The side dishes are only average; the horseradish mashed potatoes could have used a little more horseradish, and the donut-sized onion rings are heavily beer-breaded and greasy. Prices are less than you’d expect. 17795 Dallas Pkwy. 972-267-9393. $$.
III Forks. The special pepper sirloin is mealy and chewy, and the peppercorn sauce is dull. The trout swims in a weak brown sauce accompanied by a few lonely roasted pecans. But we do love the salad, a mix of mesclun. red oak leaf lettuce, and sliced green apple, topped with roasted pecans and crumbly Maytag blue cheese, all lightl dressed in a sweet vinaigrette. 17776 Dallas Pkwy. 972-267-1776. $$-$$$.
THAI
Chow Thai. A strip shopping center doesn’t seem a likely spot for a Thai food epiphany, but you’ll have one here. Excellent Thai classics like vegetables in a fiery green cany and Pail Thai taste clean and light. A dessert of fresh mango atop sticky rice is a spectacular ending. 5290 Belt Line Rd. @ Montfort Dr.. Addison. 972-960-2999. $$.
Chow Thai Pacific Rim. Once a Thai food wasteland. North Dallas is sprouting exotic Thai dishes faster than you can say dim gang keaw wan. This new sibling of Chow Thai and Mango is a visual and gastronomic delight – from the unique tapioca balls stuffed with sweet radishes to the pork chops served in a chaired tomato sauce spiked with tea leaves. Don’t leave without tasting the fried banana spring rolls. 3309 Dallas Pkwy. @ Parker Rd.. Piano, 972-608-1883. $$.
Mango. This is the second restaurant from the folks who brought Chow Thai to Dallas. Playful proportions and offbeat hues color Mango California-cool, House special Mee Sea Go is an ocean broth full of scallops, shrimp, and cala-mari. Pad Thai is appropriately sweet and crunchy with peanuts. 4701 W. Park Blvd.. Piano. 972-599^0289. $-$$.
Royal Thai. Furnished with ornate Thai antiques and traditional arts. Royal Thai is a pleasantly upscale change from the starkly serviceable interiors of so many Thai restaurants. Chicken packets are wrapped in tenderizing banana leaves. Curries are fragrant and benefit from their presentation under a little domed top. 5500 Greenville Ave, 214-691-3555.$-$$.
D REVISITS Thai Noodle and Rice. Don’t be fooled by (he linoleum-floor, Formica-table appearance because the food at Thai Noodle and Rice can stand up to any white-cloth That restaurant in town. Chicken satay and spring rolls are above average, but the fish cakes made with string beans and curry paste are tender delicious pads of goodness with or without the cucumber sauce on the side. Most of the house specialties are made by blending fresh milk strained from a coconut into the various rich, but never too sweet, sauces that you can choose to accompany chicken, shrimp, beef, or tofu, Our favorite is Tom Kha Gai. a vegetable soup infused with tart kaffir lime leaves and lemon grass. The chopstick challenged will be relieved to know that the tables are set with spoons and forks. But you don’t get off too easy-owner Pongipap Kasemsi encourages diners to eat “the Thai way” by using a fork to slide the liquid, meat, and vegetables into a spoon and down the hatch. 2634 N. Fitzhugh Ave. 214-827-5828. $.
Toy’s Cafe. This hole-in-the-wall joint has all the elements of a great neighborhood “find.” The tantalizing aroma of curry and garlic is welcoming. Thai iced tea is a hit; eggplant and tofu in Thai green-curry coconut milk is perfectly prepared. Squid salad with Thai herbs is fresh and tasty. 4422B Lemmon Ave. 214-528-7233; 3737 Forest Ln. 972-481 -1230. $.
VIETNAMESE
Green Papaya. IT you’re going to learn anything about pronouncing Vietnamese, learn to say pho correctly. The traditional Vietnamese bowl of broth comes thick with rice noodles and your choice of beef, chicken, or meatballs. Most of the other traditional country dishes are good, but someone in the kitchen needs to adjust some of the uninspired seasonings. 3211 Oak LawnAve.2l4-52l-4811.$.
Mai’s Oriental Cuisine. The Vietnamese menu is the one to go for. Proprietor Mai Pham opened the first Vietnamese restaurant in Dallas, and her food is still terrific at her little restaurant in Snider Plaza. The hot pots are especially good-“hot chic” is the regulars’ favorite. 6912 Snider Plaza. 214-361-8220. $-$$.
Miss Saigon. Texas-sized portions abound at this authentic Vietnamese restaurant. Egg rolls the diameter of baby boules, a mound of fried rice, a pile of lemon grass chicken, and three plate-sized mu shoo pancakes stuffed with Mongolian beef were all delicious and kept us fed for three days. 12300 lnwood Rd. 972-503-7110.$$.
TARRANT COUNTY
Abuelo’s Mexican Food Embassy. Usually we stick to hole-in-the-wall joints, avoiding slick contrived cantina-esque restaurants like the tap water in Mexico. But Abuelo’s gives us a few reasons to cross the line. We loved the house specialties of grilled bacon-wrapped shrimp stuffed with Monterey Jack and the medallions of chicken Stuffed with chorizo. But the Tex-Mex offerings covered with pounds of cheese send us straight to the nearest bring-your-own-six-pack spot. 824 Airport Fwy.. Hurst, 817-514-9355. $$.
Angelo’s. The big. wood-paneled dance hall of a room is lined with a self-service buffet line, cold-drink coolers, and chip racks on a linoleum floor. You grab a round tray and a frosted stein of Bud and eat from styrofoam plates under antler heads mounted on the walls. The chicken, served “while it lasts.” goes fast -it’s juicy and smoked off the bone. All the usual sides -beans, cole slaw -stand up to the ribs, but we wish they’d put more punch in their thin, vinegar-based sauce. 2533 White Settlement Rd.. Port Worth. 817-332-0357.$.
Angeluna. The patio swarms with an artsy Chanel-and-Chardonnay crowd before and after events at the Bass Performance Hall across the street. The “one-world-on-a-plate” menu features designer pizzas, pastas, and spinach and mushroom salads corralled by delicate potato rings. Who cares if it’s more about style than substance? After all, the parent company is in Aspen. 215 E. 4th St.. Fort Worth. 817-334-0080.$$.
Benito’s. Like an old familiar friend. Benito’s appearance may be spruced up from time to time, but somethings never change -like the food. The queso flameado. with or without chorizo, is flamed tableside and served with fresh pico de gallo and hot flour or com tortillas. Order it first, and then spend some time with the menu-every-
thine on it is worth trying. 1450 W. Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth. 817-332-8633.$$.
Cattlemen’s Steak House. Fort Worth ate cattle before cattle was cool, and Cattlemen’s is still the quintessential stockyard steakhouse. There’s not much but beef accompanied by roils, potatoes, and iceberg lettuce salad, but the atmosphere is genuine cowboy. 2458 N. Main St., Fort Worth. 8)7-624-3945.$$-$$$.
Joe T. Garcia’s Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery. Although not as fancy as its cousin around the comer, the chefs do an excellent job preparing all the old favorites from burritos to tamales. Breakfast is a work of art here. The bakery, in an alcove off the dining room, sells traditional Mexican breads, rolls, and sweet rolls. 2122 N. Main St.. Fort Worth. 817-626-5770. $$.
D BEST Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. The quintessential Fort Worth restaurant. Its location near the Stockyards can handle the crowds for whom the restaurant’s status hovers somewhere between “institution” and “nirvana.” Wait for a spot outside by the pool, and order the enchiladas. Joe doesn’t do credit cards or reservations, either. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth. 817-626-4356. $$.
Kincaid’s. It’s organized chaos at lunch, but there isn’t a frown in the lime-green room. The burgers are worth the drive from Dallas, and so are the sides: fried okra. deviled eggs, and pimiento cheese-stuffed jalapenos. If you can manage, have homemade banana pudding for dessert. It’s been a while since we left a restaurant this satisfied for only S5. 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth. 817-732-2881.$.
Pegasus. Fort Worth has good restaurant news-this newly opened eclectic spot with strong Middle Eastern touches is a winner. The mezze menu features hummus softly spiked with garlic, handmade dolmas stuffed with lamb and rice, and moist falafels served with an inspired fresh mango and mint coulis. A chocolate cappuccino tart smothered in Godiva chocolate sauce is nearly an overdose for chocoholics. 2443 Forest Park Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-922-0808. $$.
D BEST Randall’s Gourmet Cheesecake Company. It s a wonderfully romantic, candle-lit French cafe serving delightful classic specialties. Beef tenderloin medallions served with rosemary-roasted shallots come with crunchy haricots verts and gar-lie mashed potatoes. But the pièce de résistance is a savory cheesecake, made of parmesan and feta cheese baked with basil pesto. asparagus, mushrooms, and kalamata olives. 907 Houston St.. Fort Worth. 817-336-2253.$$.
Saint Emilion. Some are surprised to see this Fort Worth restaurant on the list of top 10 restaurants in the area. But the brick-walled, country French atmosphere is charming, and the food is mostly terrific. The wine list features many vintages from the Saint Emilion region, as you might expect. 3617 W. 7th St.. Fort Worlh.817-727-2781.$$$.
Hofstetter’s Spargel Cafe
acouple of years ago, Kala and Norbert Gregor decided to make a few Dallas-style changes to their popular German eatery near Bachman Lake, Hofstetter’s. They gave the menu a facelift, moved to the Park Cities, and adopted asparagus (spargel) as their signature dish. Most of their trademark Germanic fare has been replaced by sassy interpretations of Euro-Continental classics. But the heart of this restaurant comes from the couple’s dedication to perfection. While chef Norbert stays hidden In the kitchen, Kala lovingly roams the dining room checking every detail. When we merely questioned the flavor of one of our lamb chops, she replaced the whole order and deleted the charge. But without any doubt we proclaim that the salmon medallion, thinly crusted with pine nuts and basil, served with a delicate dill beurre blanc sauce rates as one of our favorite local meals. Diehards can still feast on Hofstetter’s trademark schnitzel, bratwurst, and spaetzle, but the star of the show here is the asparagus-steamed, roasted, and dressed to perfection. 4326 Lovers In. 214-368-3002. $$.
EAT YOUR WORDS
Move over Tex-Mex. Spanish food is all the rage. Tapas- a variety of hot and cold appetizers combined to make up a meal-range from very simple dishes, such as olives, to more elaborate chicken, seafood, or meat specialties. Here’s a quick primer for small-plate dining:
AL AJILLO-prepared with olive oil and garlic
AIBONDIGAS-meatballs
ALMEJAS-clams
AL JEREZ-cooked in sherry
ASADO-roasted
CHULETA-a chop or cutlet
GAMBAS-shrimp or prawns
MEJILLONES-mussels
PISTO-a stew-like dish made of red and green peppers, onions, garlic, and eggplant
TORTlLLA-nothing like the Mexican vanety-the ever-popular potato and onion omelet
TOP 5 TAPAS IN TOWN
Cafe Madrid
Seville at the Stoneleigh
2100 Tapas Lounge
De Tapas
Hola!
OFF THE PLATE
“It was better than singing at the Met.”
-Chaparral Club chef Uwe Rudnick on cooking at the James Beard House after winning the prestigious Hotel Chef of the Year Award.
SIDEDISH
Attention, Hot Heads
Dallas-based gourmet food manufacturer Hot Sauce Harry’s has just released a limited edition hot sauce guaranteed to make even heat-seeking masochists wary. Each bottle of Dead Heat is individually numbered, signed, and seated with a “Certificate of Death” inside a coffin-shaped box. With a Scoville Heat Index rating of 100,000 units (jalapenos average 4,000), even Peter Piper would have a hard time with just a peck of these pickled peppers.
www.hotsauceharrys. com
NEIGHBORHOOD FIND
L’Ancestral
On the weekends, Travis Street is a procession of pricey cars-limos, Mercedes, and Beemers, oh my! Scantily clad pedestrians zigzag across the street in a progressive conga line through the area’s trendy bars. Tucked in a corner not far from this maddening crowd is the low-key L’Ancestral, the granddaddy of the block. For 14 years, the kitchen has continued to serve the level of expertly prepared country French classics that keep L’Ancestral one of the premier French eateries In town.
Looking around at the diners, we could tell they were regulars who stick with a good thing when they know it. “We’re the Black-Eyed Pea of Park Cities,” chirped Ken, our server.
But the steak here isn’t chicken-fried; It’s au poivre and served à la crème flamed with cognac. A simple salad of corn, ham, apples, Swiss cheese, tomato, and red cabbage becomes a brilliant dish when the craftsman in the kitchen cuts each ingredient exactly the same size, making each bite completely balanced.
All the entrées are made with the same precision and care. Grilled lamb chops gently rolled in herbes de Provence melt easily off the bone and into the mouth-the meat so tender, you don’t need a fork. Just pick up the bone and slide it through your teeth.
Service can be slow during peak hours, but by the time the waiters reach the table, they’re helpful and gracious. What else would you expect from a neighborhood classic? 4514 Travis St. 214-528-1081. $$.
WINETALK
Life Is A Cabernet
Here’s a scandalous tidbit we thought you might enjoy: DNA studies of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape reveal parentage of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc grapes! Perhaps this bespeaks the power of the French kiss. Without question, Cabernet is the acknowledged King of the Noble Red Wine World. From its French origins, Cabernet’s excellence has triggered a global frenzy. Notable for its fabulous berry aroma and flavor, high tannins, and medium to full body, it is an ideal “get lucky” wine, especially when paired with beef, lamb, or game. However, never serve Cabernet with tomato or cream sauces or anything that swims.
We offer you four of our New World favorites beginning in California and traveling south.
GALLO OF SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON, FREI RANCH, 1996, $26. This single vineyard release proves the world’s largest wine producer “Isn’t driving your grandfather’s Oldsmobile anymore.” Ernest and Julio originally bought grapes from Frei Ranch In the 1930s with borrowed money. Now they own it and offer this earthy, elegant wine to change your mind about “Gallo by the Gallon.”
MARKHAM CABERNET SAUVIGNON, NAPA, 1996, S22. Bruce Markham is credited with resurrecting one of Napa’s oldest and most respected wineries, Laurent. Markham has produced moderately priced wines of unprecedented quality Including three No. 1 rated wines in three years. Much credit is due to wonderfully talented winemaker Michael Beaulac, who brings us this classic vintage.
SANTA RITA CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVA, MAIPO VALLEY, CHILE, 1997, $15. This rich ruby red is espresso-like with toasty flavors and Intense with fruit and flamboyant oak. Santa Rita, a true Latin seductress, will have you dusting off your dancing shoes. Surrender to her charms.
SANTELMOCABERNETSAUVIGNON, ARGENTINA, 1999, $10. Vineyards have grown in Argentina since the 1500s, and its wine production rivals the United States. However, since Argentina has one of the highest wine consumption rates per capita, it’s a miracle this tasty Cab has been allowed to embrace our shores. This Latin lover from the home of the Tango dances on your palate. Join the dance. It takes two to Tango. Feel San Telmo’s Fire.
-Sybil Kipriotis and Susan Kendall
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