Food and Drink

NEWCOMERS

THE PEGASUS

Until the opening of The Pegasus. the biggest news we’d heard from the Fort Worth dining front was that the employees of Reata were last seen fishing silverware from the Trinity River after a tornado blew the fashionable restaurant to smithereens. After some fishing around of our own. we discovered The Pegasus in southwest Fort Worth. Owner Majid Shavandy and his wife/chef Denise Paul Shavandy didn’t rip off the name from the emblematic flying red horse of the Dallas skyline; they just have a thing for horses-they also own the Crazy Horse in Waxahachie.

At first glance the menu reads a little schizophrenic-Middle Eastern, Mediterranean combined with Southwestern, Thai, and New American cuisine. But on further inspection, we realized that chef Shavandy wasn’t turning out yet another “global fusion” conglomeration. Her style is more “global fission”- she isn’t mixing and matching tastes on one plate; every one of her regional dishes are true to the culture that inspired them.

The interior is just as eclectic as the menu. Warm gray tones are contrasted with lots of heavy mahogany and cherry stone woods juxtapose white tablecloths and black napkins. What you see on one visit may not be there the next time-all of the mismatched furniture, funky fixtures, and art are on consignment.

Chef Shavandy plans to rotate the menu, too. With Middle Eastern as the backbone, her main focus is offering user-friendly food. The mezze menu follows the small-plate concept, but she goes one step further-all the entrees are available as half orders, making it possible to sample a half order of rack of lamb.

That’s great news for light eaters and restaurant critics. In one visit we were able to sample twice as many dishes as we normally could. We dipped fresh pita into hummus softly spiked with garlic, and there was nary a dimple on the handmade dolmas stuffed with lamb and rice. The pureed eggplant in the baba ghanoush was distinguishable from the garlic and tahini, and moist deep-fried falafels were served with an inspired fresh mango and mint coulis. Steamed romaine leaves with shrimp, chorizo, and Manzanilla olives with saffron crème fra?che was a deli-ciously clever spin on the burrito. After all that, we still fought over the last phyllo-wrapped shrimp.

In the midst of our feeding, we overheard the table next to us raving about the duck and made room for our own plate of two perfectly moist birds served with a fruit mole, cilantro-oil and butternut squash purée, which blended beautifully in our mouths. Sumac crusted, the ultra tender filet mignon was served with a thin pomegranate demi-glace and flavorful cilantro scallion mashed potatoes.

Eventually even small plates add up to full stomachs, but we couldn’t resist a hot bakla-va ice cream sandwich bathed in a tart goat caramel sauce. Nor could we forego a choco-late cappuccino tart smothered in Godiva chocolate sauce and pureed raspberries- nearly an overdose even for chocoholics. 2443 Forest Park Blvd., Fort Worth. 817-922-0808. $$.



AVANTI EURO BISTRO

Jack Ekhtair isn’t the best-known restaurateur in Dallas, but he’s probably the smartest.

Take his Avanti Ristorante on McKinney Avenue-the place is packed every Thursday. Friday, and Saturday night. Why? Because Ekhtair keenly created a hip spot in the hub of Uptown nightlife and-here’s the kicker-he keeps the kitchen open until 4 a.m. Want to celebrate a special Saturday night overlooking the waterfall at his Fountain Place location? If you call today, they could squeeze you in sometime in June. That’s June 2001.

Obviously Dallas is starved for romantic rooms with a view, and Ekhtair has a knack for snagging premier locations. Which brings us to Addison Circle, where he recently debuted Avanti Euro Bistro. The jury is still out on this new prefab quasi-European community just north of Beit Line Road, but we’ve heard reports that the surrounding apartments are filling up faster than you can say “high-tech helicopter crash”-the only printable phrase we have to describe the $2 million 50-foot sculpture erected in the roundabout. At any rate, the controversial public art monstrosity makes for great dinner conversation.

And dinner at Avanti Euro Bistro is worth talking about. We chose a Middle Eastern sampler of dolmas, hummus, tabbouleh. and fresh lavash bread from the menu peppered with French and Moroccan delights. Next we devoured an overstuffed portobello mushroom gently glazed with beurre blanc.

Once the plates were cleared, our attention turned to the swanky interior-simple. sleek, and sexy. Candle sconces flicker across dark eggplant walls and round leopard print booths have lace curtains for total privacy. Hip live music ranging from jazz to flamenco drifts softly from the bar, making it easy to relax and linger.

When our entrées arrived, we marveled at a truly traditional version of veal Fran aise-a tender scallop of meat covered with wild mushrooms and delicately swirled with a cognac demi-glaze. Chicken Marrakesh was a platter of four petite grilled chicken quarters bursting with a saffron-lime flavor and resting on a bed of fluffy couscous. Disappointed by the tough beef tenderloin tournedos, we still wanted to take home a pint of the accompanying red burgundy sauce spiced with Madagascar green peppercorns. While most menus in town feature an angel hair and something dish as a token vegetarian offering, Avanti’s version was a Mediterranean-inspired masterpiece with wild mushrooms, capers, and fresh tomatoes gently tossed in a light basil-lemon sauce.

After such a delightful meal, we were stunned by the dreadful crème br?lée served in a three-inch cup of piecrust. Not only was it impossible to eat, once the pastry finally crumbled, the thin custard ran all over the plate. Thankfully, the kitchen redeemed itself with the newest trend around-a fresh pear poached in vintage port served with a dollop of rich mascarpone. 5001 Addison Circle. Addison. 972-386-7800. $$.



ASIAN FUSION

Abacus. Kent Rathbun’s kitchen is a stage; dinner is a show. Lobster shooters are served sake-style-six cups contain a chunk of lobster tossed back with a shot of coconut milk, red curry, and sake. Entrées of pan-seared

wall-eyed pike with scallion-whipped potatoes and pork loin with pumpkin risotto are inspired meat and mash variations. 4511 McKinney Ave. 214-559-31 U. $$$.



Citizen. Tuna tartare served on the base of an upside-down martini glass and sake served in wooden boxes may be as tricky as the décor, but somehow it all works. A stunningly simple slab of black cod is served solo on a banana leaf, a blond miso anchoring the ethereal fish. And Kobe beef, grilled and sliced, is the ultimate extravagance at around $15 an ounce. 3858 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-522-7253. $$$.



D BEST Liberty. Annie Wong, the mother of Thai food in Dallas, still owns three all-Thai restaurants, but Liberty is where her imagination is freed. Romantically and softly lit, with beaded candleshades on each table and bamboo birdcages animated with twinkling Christmas lights, the brightly lit kitchen makes Liberty into real dinner theater, and Wong is the star. What makes her food different is what makes any chef’s food special: imagination. 5631 Alta Ave. 214-887-8795. $$.



BAKERY/SANDWICHES

Highland Park Pharmacy. We can only describe the Pharmacy atmosphere as reassuring. Some people love the Palm Beach sandwich (pimento cheese to you) or the tuna salad with cherry-cokes. For us, the grilled cheese is the winner– American slices melted to glue, the bread buttery’ and crisp. Chips are extra; sodas and milkshakes are priceless. Lunch only. 3229 Knox St. 214-521-2126.$.



Street’s Famous Sandwiches. A sandwich can be just a sandwich, but at Street’s it’s more like a meal. Fresh ingredients are key: turkeys, roasts, and desserts are baked on the spot. As for the sides, Chinese sesame noodles, cole slaw, and potato salad are line filler. But you might skip those and go straight from your sandwich to the rum cake. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-526-2505. Multiple locations. $.



Wild About Harry’s. Harry’s serves real Chicago dogs, topped with onions, mustard, peppers, and the authentic neon-green relish-he also serves them smothered with Texas chili, sauerkraut, and pretty much everything else. You have to have custard after a Harry’s dog-it’s smoother than crème br?lée, and ever)’ day there’s a different selection of flavors. This is the kind of place thai gives you hope for American culture. 3113 Knox St. 214-520-3113. $.



BARBECUE

Baker’s Ribs. Nothing fancy about this place. Load up your trays with piles of sliced beef, pork, turkey. chicken, cayenne-seasoned St. Louis-cut ribs, and the usual side dishes for a barbecue place-potato salad, cole slaw. and beans. We still prefer the Commerce Street location. 2724 Commerce St. 214-748-5433: 4844 Greenville Ave. 214-373-0(182; 488 W. 1-30 at Belt Line Rd., Garland. 972-226-7447. $.

D BEST Peggy Sue Barbecue. Though Sonny Bryan’s still wins in the beef sandwich category—the definitive dish when you’re talking Texas barbecue-Peggy Sue’s beats Sonny’s by a rib in meats, side dishes, and sauces. And the smoked chicken quesadillas alone are worth a trip. A new favorite is brisket fajitas-soft flour tortillas filled with grilled barbecued brisket, onions. and green peppers. 6600 Snider Plaza. 214-987-9188.$.



Sammy’s Barbecue. Barbecue for the banking crowd at bankers’ hours. Everyday at lunch, Sammy’s is full of white-collar types, ties thrown over their shoulders, chowing on great red-stripe brisket, ribs, and homemade Mom-style pie. No, really-Sammy’s is a family-run enterprise, and all the Pritchards pitch in. 2126 Leonard St. 214-880-9064. $.



Sonny Bryan’s. For 40 years. Sonny Bryan’s meaty ribs, moist brisket, and classic barbecue sauce have been the standard by which all other Dallas barbecue is judged. For the classic barbecue experience, return to the original Inwood Road joint, sit on the hood of your car, and gnaw on tender smoked ribs, chopped beef, and giant onion rings. 2202 Inwood Rd. 214-357-7120. Multiple locations. $.



BURGERS

Angry Dog. The menu is standard bar cuisine, including some great burgers, nachos, and sandwiches, but it extends to include some inspiring options. The Angry Dog-a grilled, all-beef hot dog split and served open-faced, covered with grilled onions, chili, and cheese-is truly fantastic and a bargain at $4.50. For serious beer drinkers, there are 120 beers to choose from. 2726 Commerce St. 214-741-4406.$.



Balls Hamburgers. The burgers are big, weighing in at a half-pound, but the flavor is only average. However, the silver-dollar sized burgers with grilled onions and pickles are real crowd-pleasers. And a humble hot dog- smothered in chili, cheese, and chopped onions-saves the day. 3404 Rankin St. 214-373-1717; 4343 W. Northwest Hwy. 214-352-2525 $.



Chip’s Old Fashioned Hamburgers. Perhaps Dallas’ best rendition of the ail-American hamburger is served at Chip’s. Both locations have an atmosphere as wholesome as a Beach Boys song, and the food is fast and fresh, too. A return to a time of innocence, when a good lime could be fueled by nothing more than fries and a shake. The skinny onion rings, rich pig sandwich, and hot dogs are just lagniappe. 4501 Cole Ave. 214-526-1092; 4530 Lovers Ln. 214-691-2447.$.



D BEST The Prince of Hamburgers. The

crispy-edged, toasty bun, the slim but beefy-tasting, just-cooked patty, and the simple but fresh garnitures combine to make the quintessential American sandwich. Prince sticks to the classic accompaniments: thick shakes, incredibly frosty root beer, fries, and fabulous onion rings, all brought to you by a real live person. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 214-526-9081.$.



Puff’s Hickory Grill. Servers tend to be the ’90s version of the ’50s soda jerk-baggy-jeaned teens with good intentions and no grace. But the burgers, built from half a pound of chuck, grilled and smoked over hickory, on a special Massimo-baked bun, are good and the options are, too: cheese, bacon-mushroom, and a welcome revival of the old Goff’s hickory-sauced sandwich, livened up with jalapenos. 6112 Luther Ln., Preston Center. 214-361-6191. $. Margaritas.



Purple Cow. This burger-and-shake diner uses Blue Bell ice cream and features 10 flavors of milkshakes, including the signature Purple Cow and the Peanut Butter and Jelly. The Blue-Cheeseburger is a great variation on standard soda-shop fare, dripping with rich, creamy blue cheese. But the reason we’ll go back is the grilled Palm Beach-a hot pimento cheese sandwich that oozes down your arms. It’s worth the price of the dry cleaning bill. 110 Preston Royal Village. 214-373-0037. $.



Snuffer’s. The burgers and frosty brew are a sensory way-back machine for those who thought that college was the prime of their life. They probably were, if you continue to eat things like Snuffer’s cheese fries (a basket of deep-fried strips, covered in gloriously greasy cheese) because you can’t last long if you eat this way often. 3526 Greenville Ave. 214-826-6850; 14910Midway Rd., Addison. 972-991-8811. $.



Stoneleigh P. Everyone smuggles in ketchup because the place proudly and oddly refuses to serve it. But even the contraband ketchup can’t help the boring, meatless garden burger, and the homemade potato chips are not as good as Zapp’s out of die bag. The best thing about the Stoneleigh.’s rancho deluxe burger, served on an equally crumbly “rustica” bun. was the chipotle mayonnaise. Maybe thai explains the condiment ban. 2926 Maple Ave. 214-871-2346.$.



CHINESE

Arc- En-Ciel. The kitchen employs separate cooks for the Chinese and Vietnamese fare, but everyone really goes there to eat Vietnamese. We ordered our last meal in a leisurely way, a few dishes at a time. Pristine Imperial rolls; shrimp pounded and molded on sugarcane; grilled pork to roll in rice paper with rice noodles, cilantro, mini, lettuce, and sprouts-each dish delightful, fresh, excellent. 3555 W. Walnut St.. Garland. 972-272-2188.$-$$.



Cafe Panda If you can’t find what you’re hungry for on the menu at Cafe Panda, you’ll have to go to China. Usually, you have to know 24 hours ahead that you are in the mood for this Mandarin delicacy, but at Cafe Panda, Peking duck can be an impulse buy. The downside: Fire Cracker Shrimp, billed as a hot dish- “buckle your seat belt, this shrimp will bring one bumpy night,” warns the menu-is anything but spicy. The Kung Pao Chicken could use some more fire as well. 7979 Inwood Rd. 214-902-9500.$$.



D BEST Jennny Ho’s Szechwan Pavilion. After 20 years of trying. Jenny Ho s is serving some of the best Chinese in town. We never eat here (or takeout) without a plate of twice-cooked pork-paper thin squares of pork stir-fried in black bean sauce with thick cuts of carrots and crisp vegetables. If you are lucky enough to live nearby, they’ll deliver. 8409 Preston Rd. 214-368-4303. $-$$.



New Big Wong. Large lunches are served here in fast-food time, but a leisurely dinner rewards experimentation. The menu is large and largely authentic, serving a wide variety of wiggly sea creatures. The setting is plain and the service friendly. 212^ S. Greenville Ave. 214-821 -4198.$-$$.



Royal China. Royal China serves the same neighborhood clientele that has been faithfully eating here since Buck Kao and his family opened the place in 1947. Appetizers are still in peak performance, including a wonderful hot and sour soup and perfectly steamed pan-fried pork dumplings. Bui the General’s Chicken tends to look and taste like chicken McNuggets in a sweet orange sauce. 201 Preston Royal Center. 214-361-1771.5-$$.

Location: On Texas/Oklahoma suae line, north of Denison

Size: 89,000 acres

Waterfront Restrictions: Yes



SIZE MATTERS IN TEXAS. AND EVEN THOUGH WE SHARE LAKE Texoma with Oklahoma, this huge span of water draws many local residents (including Ross Perot Sr.) simply because of its variety. Texoma is also a popular spot for boat owners because of its large marina.

You can fish here (the stripper is particularly good), sail, ski or just putter around for the heck of it. Here, you’ll find everything from $250,000 yachts to garage-sale fishing boats.

Some of the best lakefront property is in Russwood, a subdivision west of Pottsboro, with most homes starting at $300,000, says Evelyn Jones, a sales associate at Coldwell Banker Benchmark Realtors. The most popular view is from the many islands in the middle of the lake, where boaters dock for the day and enjoy the solitude. Many residents opt for golf course homes, starting at $ 150,000, and “garden homes” with zero lot lines from about S 120.000.

Then, of course, there are the private properties, like Perot’s, which are built on the cliffs, accessible only by boat and helicopter.

Texoma may seem far away, an hour north of Piano, but many former Dallas residents choose to make the commute instead of setting up a weekend home.

Darlene & Ralph LaCroix, ages 68 and 72 respectively, moved into Preston Forest, one of the lake’s gated communities, three years ago from their home in McKinney. Until recently, Darlene still commuted to her travel agency in Allen three days a week.

Dallas-are worth eating with or without a napkin. In the Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy. at LBJ Fwy. 972-934-9998. $$S. I



DELI

Dell News. This plainly authentic deli has continued 10 demonstrate that you don’t have to be from New York to know the Real Thing when you taste it. Hot cabbage borscht, potato pancakes, and rye-wrapped pastrami are all wonderful. 4805 Frankford Rd. 972-733-3354. $-$$.



Gilbert’s. All you Yankees pining for the comforts of the Carnegie Deli, stop whining. The Gilbert family has been dishing out potato knishes, stuffed derma, and kasha varnishkas as good as any in the Big Apple for more than a decade. They also have a decent plate of spaghetti and meatballs for the shiksa in your group. 11661 Preston Rd. 214-373-3333. S.



EASTERN EUROPEAN

Athenée Cafe. Dallas’ only Rumanian restaurant-are you surprised? Stuffed mountain cabbage is a fabulous signature dish-meatball-sized beef rolls oven-roasted in delicate cabbage leaves with a red wine sauce, just like Grandma in Transylvania used to make. Other highlights: Rumanian sausage and veal chop. The wine list is adequate, 5365 Spring Valley Rd., Ste. 150. 972-239-8060. $$.

ECLECTIC



Bistro A. Peripatetic chef Avner Samuel ’s latest venture is his best yet. and better yet. Bistro A looks like it’s going to be around awhile. Dishes with Middle Eastern influences are especially good, but the chef does equally well with simple steak fries, and casserole-roasted chicken could be the best bird in town. Beware of spotty service. 6815 Snider Plaza. 214-373-9911. $$-$$$.



Bread Winners. Three different menus a day are all imaginative. But the buttermilk pan-fried chicken breast with mashed potatoes and cream gravy is the real winner-lightly battered and fried fork-tender chicken over leek mashed potatoes and cream gravy so good it makes the bland bread better. 3301 McKinney Ave. 214-754-4940.$-$$.



Cork. The list of wines by the glass, ports, sherries, and champagnes is staggering considering the small space. The food is simple but perfectly matched to the concept. Pick your wines, then customize a cheese plate to match. Lovely patés and olive mixes also make more substantial meals, and you can linger long, foregoing dinner. 2709 McKinney Ave. 214-303-0302. $.



Dream Cafe. One of Dallas’ original organically oriented menus, old favorites like the California Dreaming (mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil on grilled sourdough bread) and the basic Global Dinner ( a simple bowl of brown rice and beans covered with melted jack cheese) are as good as ever. The One for John-a grilled marinated tempeh burger-is the best hamburger substitute in town. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St. 214-954-0486. $-$$.



Firehouse. We’ve had no problems with new chef Bill Lewis’ version of “Internalional Hot and Spicy Cuisine.” Trendy tamarind-soy marinated pork chops are served with a tongue-soothing mango salsa. Surprisingly, our favorite dish isn’t spicy at all-the warm chocolate devil’s food cake surrounded by Milwaukee Joe’s vanilla ice cream comes garnished with a chunk of homemade pistachio brittle. 1928 Greenville Ave. 214-826-2468.$$.



Genghis Grill. You get a stainless steel bowl from the stack and choose your ingredients from a cafeteria line on ice: bins of meat and vegetables, along with your choice of oils and seasonings. Then you give your bowl to the grill-master, who losses it on a giant round griddle, cooks it quick, then serves it back to you in the bowl. And Genghis Grill provides basic recipes for people who don’t know the difference between tamarind and teriyaki. 1915 Greenville Ave. 214-841-9990. $-$$.



D BEST The Grape. The secret is that Dallas’ oldest and best wine bar is really one of its oldest and best restaurants- dim and atmospheric, with a blackboard menu that remains interesting and enticing (no matter how often the chef changes) and the tiniest, most romantic bar in town. 2808 Greenville Ave. 214-828-1981.$$.



D BEST The Green Room. Undoubtedly the

grooviest chef and dining room in town. Marc Cassel’s “Collision Cuisine” menu includes a knockout prime strip steak served with lemon-horseradish potatoes and a delicate coconut-steamed rainbow trout, Don’t be fooled by the young staff, they know the menu and wine list and service is hip and polished. 2715 Elm St. 214-748-7666. $$-$$$.



Routh Street. The microbrewery has closed, and the successful “Hill Country Cuisine” concept has been tweaked to include “Texas Comfort.” We managed to find some comfort in the chicken-fried steak (it was better than average) and the grilled bratworst plate (even without the beer). Both remained iconic tastes of Texas heritage. 3011 Routh St. 214-922-8835. $$.



Simply Fondue. The appeal of Simply Fondue is lost on us-if you’re not going to stay home and cook, why would you go out and cook? Still, the place is always booked. The professional and friendly staff makes the process manageable. Bread and cheese are staples of the age-just like chips and queso. but you can’t spear a tostada. And the meal is as good as melted cheese, sautéed meat, and melted chocolate can be. 2108 Greenville Ave. 214-827-8878. $$-$$$.



St. Pete’s Dancing Marlin. The marlin doesn’t mean seafood; it’s just a clue that the owner likes to fish. The only seafood here is the dancing tuna sandwich; mostly, the food is simply designed to go with your beer. Beware the Diablo Tempestuous, pasta doused in fiery jalapeno-tomato sauce. It’s so hot it comes with a chaser of chocolate milk. 2730 Commerce St. 214-698-1511.$-$$.



Soho. The imaginative one-world-on-a-plate concept isn’t as complicated as it sounds. The mahi-mahi with a light ginger and lemongrass crust, grilled to tender, bedded on nutty red wehani rice, and encircled with a soy-lemon sauce is the dish that would lure us back to pseudo-Soho. An armagnac poached pear with toasted walnut and rice mascarpone cheese is simple elegance done well. 5290 Belt Line Rd? Addison. 972-490-8686. $$.



D BEST Tarantino’s. The overall ambience- a dark, New York cafe-shaped space dominated by a long bar-is best at night, when the slight scruffiness is hidden by dim light and the place looks avant garde instead of under-financed. The food goes back to the basics of Italian and Spanish cuisine, served taps-style. The take on traditional osso buco. based on a rich, gamy lamb shank instead of veal, is food you lust after. 3611 Parry Ave. 214-821-2224. Dinner only. $$.



Thomas Avenue Beverage Company. TABC isn’t a beer and burger pub, although they do serve both. Chef Kerry Kelly has elevated the menu to the level other fine restaurants in town by rotating creative versions of Southwestern. Cuban, and Italian with any other cuisine that fits his mood, The tikka chicken is a great rendition of the Indian classic. 2901 Thomas Ave. 214-979-0452.$$.



Tin Star. Tex-Mex meets the world under the “Salsa, Smoke, and Sizzle” style. Stick to thin-crusted pizza topped with a smoky-sweet barbecue sauce and dotted with chunks of grilled chicken and onions. The restaurant may lose you with the cheeseburger taco-a big cheese-topped patty wrapped in a flour tortilla. We’re Texans: we agree that that almost everything tastes better wrapped in a tortilla. Almost. 2626 Howell St. (across from the Quadrangle). 214-999-0059. $.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

Addison Cafe. It’s called “Le French Bistro,” but in reality. Addison Cafe is a restaurant serving classically prepared French and New American dishes, which has kept them in business for 15 years. Tournedos of beef are cooked medium-rare and served in a textbook bordelaise sauce. And dark chocolate mousse is worth every hip-hugging calorie. 5290 Belt Line Rd.at Montfort Dr., Ste. 108. Addison. 972-991-8824. $$-$$$.



Clair De Lune. Tucked behind some trees in the comer of a small strip of shops in Preston Royal, this cozy French country restaurant delights with delicious food and impeccable service. A classic house-made pork paté is served with diced onion, French cornichons.

and mustard. Poitrine de canard, a splendidly moist duck breast, is served with a delicate port wine sauce. 5934 Royal Ln. at Preston Rd. 214-987-2028. $$-$$$.



French Room. This is the prettiest dining room in Dallas. The rococo-style, cherub-flown ceiling, Versailles-length drapes, and candlelight make it the kind of place thai doesn’t mesh with the modem world. It’s only natural to expect perfect food that matches the fairy-tale room. Sweetbread schnitzel is perfect, placed on a bed of asparagus ragout. Lamb ribeye is precisely matched with rosemary goat cheese polenta and tomato confit with basil, combining every Mediterranean high note in a single dish. Hotel Adolphus, 132l Commerce St, 214-742-8200.$$$.



Jennivine. The charming old house is as popular a pop-the-question romantic spot as ever. Wood floors, quaint bar candles, flowers, and fine food are the setting for a nice selection of wines by the glass. The tilapia is a perfectly tender filet on a layer of lemony orzo with red cabbage and a tablespoon of sweet potatoes. And the chocolate mousse here is classic-bittersweet, firm, and topped with fresh whipped cream. 3605^McKinney Ave. 214-528-6010. $$.



D BEST L’Ancestral. Let L’Ancestral remind you of traditionaldelights: The civilized dining room is softly lit. tables are draped in starchy white, and the menu is stubbornly, traditionally French. Begin your meal with a bowl of onion soup, about as recherché as you can get, but some ideas need no improvement. The onion tart is just as subtly good. Lamb is cooked perfectly medium rare, and steak au poivre comes with the best, yes. French fries in town. 4514 Travis St. 214-528-1081. SS-$$$.



La Mirabelle. Thoroughly retro not only in its ambience, which stresses traditional comfort, and in its food, which is precisely and personally prepared French, but also in its service, which actually claims to coddle the customer. Enjoy reading the menu, but don’t order a thing until you hear the specials of the day. That’s where the treasures are. 17610 Midway Rd. 972-733-0202. $$-$$$.



Lavendou. Despite the fact that our waiter didn’t know the difference between smooth and coarse paté, someone in the kitchen cooks with a French accent. Delicious French specialities come garnished à la Fran?aise within an inch of their life: For instance, a tender tilapia came tucked in a tutu-like frill of purple kale, decorated with two swishes and a curl of orange red pepper sauce. 19009 Preston Rd. 972-248-1911.$$-$$$.



Old Warsaw. Hanging on to a reputation as one of Dallas’ oldest elite restaurants is tough, but La Vielle Varsovie is valiant. It takes effort to find much fault with the food-from appetizers to dessert, the meal is an anachronistic treat. Servers, however, are only acceptably pleasant. 2610 Maple Ave. 214-528-0092. $$$.

Paris Bistrot. Paris Bistrot spills out onto McKinney like a sidewalk cafe in Paris. We’re infatuated with the classic duck confit, coarse paté campagne, delicately julienned and turned vegetables, and lamb shank with rich creamy risotto. Chocolate mousse is the real thing. 2533 McKinney Ave. 214-720-0225.$$.



The Pyramid Room. The table à ’hole menu is a good deaJ-$68 for four courses with wine. $44 without. Cream of carrot soup with celery root and gorgonzola croutons is good, hot, and thick, with a spicy nose. As for the main courses, a fan of rare duck slices with a wonderful apple-pineapple wild rice goes perfectly with an Indigo Hills pinot noir, the food and the wine forming a perfect circle on the palate. Fairmont Hotel. 1717 N. Akard St. 214-720-5249.$$$.



D BEST The Riviera. Chef Tom Fleming s roasted rack of lamb swaddled in cracked black pepper and sautéed maple leaf duck breast served with a sour cherry baked apple compote are just two reasons The Riviera is at the top of every five-star dining list. Any night is reason enough to celebrate with a warm apple streusel and a scoop of Calvados ice cream paired with a glass of Moet & Chandon brut Rose. 7709 Inwood Rd. 214-351-0094.$$$.



St. Martin’s. Rich paneling, soft-lit paintings, and touches of muted gold update the famous romantic setting; live music shapes the proper evening mood: and the food delivers sophisticated fulfillment The by-the-glass wine selection is broad, and service strikes the correct balance between attention and discretion. 3020 Greenville Ave. 214-826-0940. $$-$$$.



Voltaire. All the elements of tine dining have been taken to surreal extremes. The wine list is 15.000 strong while the menu is surprisingly minimal. There are three fish dishes and four plats de Voltaire including a lovely lobster harissa with garlic mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, and a warm Thai-scented sauce. 5150 Keller Springs Rd. at N, Dallas Tollway. 972-239-8988.$$$.



Watel’s. French food may be the latest trend on McKinney, but Watel’s has been the top French bistro on the block for 11 years. And the new, sleeker digs haven’t had any effect on the quality of the food. The menu, which has always contained unusual organ offerings like calf brains, veal kidneys, and sweetbreads, has weathered the wars of nouvelle cuisine. A splendid classic duck leg confit appropriately slips off the bone with each bite, and the accompanying risotto is just rich enough. 2719 McKinney Ave. 214-720-0323. $$.



GOURMET TO GO

City Cafe To Go. Does anybody cook from scratch anymore? According to the servers at City Cafe To Go. most people don’t even know how to use a regular oven to reheat the precooked food they buy there. They all want microwave instructions. But for those of you who can handie it. most of the dishes (for instance, a thickly sliced rare leg of lamb with charred, sun-dried tomatoes) are tasty and reheat beautifully. 5757 Lovers Ln. 214-351-3366. $-$$.

City Harvest. We can always count on the infamous King Ranch Casserole–a comforting blend of chicken, cheese and chilies-to take the edge off of a hard day at the office. You can dine in or take oui from a list of other old favorites including Frito pie and Mom’s meat-loaf. 939 N. Edgefield Ave. 214-943-2650. $.



Eatzi’s. Eatzi’s definitely lives up to its circus hype. Hear the strains of opera and waltz through the crowds collecting the already cooked makings of a gourmet dinner-down to the imported beer, fresh bread, and flowers. Or choose salads or sandwiches made to order. Checkout lines are infamously long. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-526-1515. $.



Izmir Deli. Dallas’ new fascination with Middle Eastern food means there have been long lines at Cafe Izmir since it opened. You can avoid those crowds by ordering in from the Izmir Deli, just down Greenville from the original cafe. Gyros, tenderloin, mozzarella. grilled vegetables, and chicken sandwiches, pita, hummus, couscous, and eggplant dip are all available for pick-up or phone-in orders. And this is the place to go if you need rosewater at 9 p.m. 3607 Greenville Ave. 214-824-8484. $-$$.



Marty’s Cafe TuGogh. Marty’s latest version of its wine bar has changed everything but the name. And the food–there was never a problem with that. At night, when the blond, light-filled Cafe TuGogh features full table service, it’s on its way to becoming one of the best little bistros in town. 3316 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-526-4070. $-$$.



Sigel’s Fresh Market. Besides the stellar cheese counter, dozens of kinds of imported pasta, great selection of olive oils, and other gourmet comestibles, the little deli adjoining Sigel’s liquor store sells perhaps the best roast chicken to go in town. And it’s a deal, too. 15003 Inwood Rd. 972-387-9804. $.



GREEK

Kostas Cafe. If you can’t get to Greece anytime soon, sample the saganaki at Kostas. The fried kasseri cheese soaked in brandy comes to the table flaming and is ceremoniously doused with fresh lemon juice and a loud “Opa!” All the classics-spanakopita, moussaka, and sou-vlaki-are authentically prepared, and the family atmosphere makes eating off your neighbor’s plate seem like a warm gesture. 4914 Greenville Ave. 214-987-3225. $$.



Z Cafe. Pizza lopped with gyro meat, feta, tomatoes, and olives and the potato balls are a legacy of the former Little Gus. Breakfast omelettes take on the flavor of the neighborhood when they ’re rilled with chorizo, chili, and cheddar. The quintessential greasy spoon burger is a masterpiece topped with feta. grilled onions, and jalapenos. Breakfast and lunch only. 1924 Henderson Ave. 214-821-0991.$.

D BEST Ziziki’s. You can hardly get a prime-time table at this contemporary Greek cafe, and they don’t take reservations, except for large parties. But the herbed lamb souvlaki, folded in thick warm pita and sauced with tart yogurt, is worth a wait. Ziziki’s menu has featured the same idiosyncratic version of Mediterranean food since il opened-it’s a good thing some things don’t change. 4514 Travis St., Ste. 122.214-521-2233. $$.



HOME COOKING

Barbec’s. Barbec’s regulars love the tabloid newsprint menu, the hearty. what-canget-you-Hon? waitresses, me awesome anytime breakfasts. The food ranges from pretty good to good, but it’s all cheap. And they’ve always got those legendary beer biscuits, sweet and high and truly loved by all. Great meringues. 8949 Garland Rd. 214-321-5597. $.

Celebration. Bring your appetite to this longtime mecca for Dallas home-cooking purists. Entrées run the gamut from broiled fresh fish to pot roast to fried chicken, all accompanied by an endless supply of vegetables. Don’t worry if your entrée seems small-you can reorder as often as you wish. 4503 W. Lovers Ln. 214-351-5681.$-$$.



Mama’s Daughters Diner. Mama’s Daughters Diner has ’em lined up out the door for the Deep South, deep fat cuisine that’s euphemistically called home cooking: fried chicken, with bones, green beans cooked beyond tenderness with cornbread and mashed potatoes. The prize is the chocolate pie-tall, dark, and topped with clouds of meringue. 2014 Irving Blvd. 214-742-8646. $.



Mecca. The place is sunny, cheerfully decorated with flowers in Spam and Manwich cans. The pro waitresses keep the coffee cups filled and call the customers “non.” Ridiculously large plates of banana pancakes, thick-cut bacon, eggs over easy, great big biscuits, and reassuring hash browns, served at an appropriate morning pace, add up to an eye-blinkingly low tab. Good morning. 10422 Harry Hines Blvd. 214-352-0051.$.



Natalie’s. It’s the ultimate neighborhood spot: The portions are large: die prices are small. The meatloaf is a popular choice: For S7.95 you get an 8-by-3-inch slab of finely ground meat with a light tomato sauce on top. mixed crisp steamed vegetables, and a hunk of mashed potatoes. But the secret to Natalie’s success is the cinnamon rolls. We always order extra to take home for the next morning. 5944 Royal Ln. 214-739-0362. $.



INDIAN

India Palace. India Palace has long been considered one the best Indian restaurants in town. Recently merged with Bombay Cricket Club, we found the luster lacking. Service was unhelpful, so it was fortunate we knew what we wanted and it was easy-biryani. fragrant and studded with fruits, nuts, and lamb-and delicious. The Vegetable Bhojan was an institutional presentation but tasted good. 12817 Preston Rd. 972-392-0190. $$.



Madras Pavilion. The unforgettable aromas of jasmine, coriander, and turmeric greet you at the door. Lunch is an Indian food orgy buffet that includes unusual (for Dallas) Northern Indian specialties-a bargain at $6.99. In the evening, you can choose from an extensive menu that includes a large list of dosai (thin rice crepes with vegetarian fillings) and vadas (crunchy lentil cakes). Cold raita. fresh coriander leaves, salads of chopped carrots, cucumber, and onions, are just a few of the refreshing condiments supplied to ease the heat. 101 S. Coit at Belt Line Rd., Dal Rich Shopping Center. 972-671-3672. $-$$.



ITALIAN

Alfonso’s. If you don’t live in East Dallas, it’s time to load the kids in the car and take a round trip tor dinner. Basic Italian favorites are cooked the old-fashioned way-heavy on the garlic and butler. Chicken Francese and the hot homemade garlic (and we mean garlic) rolls are alone worth the trip. Lake Highland Village. 718 N. Buckner Blvd. at Northcliff Dr. 214-327-7777.$.



Amore. Amore has all the elements of a successful neighborhood restaurant but the food, like most Italian food in town, is average. There’s plenty to choose from-the menu is loaded with chicken, seafood, and veal dishes with cream sauces presiding over tomato-based marinaras. Half plates make it easy for families with kids. 6931 Snider Plaza. 214-739-0502.$$.



Antonio Ristorante. This new restaurant is a funky-free, spic-and-span version of the Lombardi’s on Hall: red brick walls, green-and-white checked tablecloths. The servers are friendly but inexperienced, more what you would expect at Snuffer’s than at a “ristorante” with .$20 entrees. Focaccia tends to be gooey in the center and burned on the edges; minestrone soup is indistinguishable from Campbell’s Chunky Vegetable, One of the only tasty things is a mess of housemade sausage and peppers. 4985 Addison Cir. 972-458-1010. $$.



Cafe Cipriani. This is one of the best Italian restaurants in town. Owner Sal-vino Zannetti doesn’t compromise on his ingredients; he orders his cheese from a deli in New York-as close to Italy as you can get in Dallas. And the lasagna is the real standout-layers of homemade noodles, with just enough ground veal to give the dish substance without making it too heavy. 220 Las Colinas Blvd., Irving. 972-869-0713.$$.



Cafe Expresso. Owner Dieter Paul offers an uncomplicated list of Italian specialties. Pastas and sauces are mix and match, and the same goes for the thin crusty individual pizzas. The kitchen also knocks out above average veal scaloppini with lemon butler and capers and the nightly specials (maybe a pecan-crusted flounder) never disappoint. 6135 Luther Ln. 214-361-6984.$$.



Campisi’s. Campisi’s recent addition is a big, new cheesy room adjoining the small, old cheesy room, Campisi’s is famous, or infamous, however you feel about its ambience, and you don’t change a legend lightly. They should have left well enough alone; Campisi’s red sauce isn’t that great even in the original dining room, where it’s so dim you can’t see it. As for the famous pizza, the crust tends to be tough and tastes like it’s been reheated. We’d be embarrassed to bring anyone to try this Dallas tradition. 5610 E. Mockingbird Ln. 214-827-0355.$-$$.



Giovanni’s. The food is better than the service. Manicotti stuffed with cheese, spinach, and basil is just the way it should be-heavy on the oregano. The huge squares of ravioli plump with chunks of sweet lobster are surrounded sinfully by a brandy cream sauce. Ask for your check after the entrées (if you can find a waiter)-the tiramisu resembles a Sara Lee cheesecake, with the addition of a thick caulk-like frosting. 18484 Preston Rd. 972-596-8610. $$.



lano’s. The menu is priced per portion and per “la familia.” And it’s thoroughly Italian in that a “la familia” platter is plenty for a family, including parents, several children, and grandparents. Vitello Pugliese. for example, is thickly breaded slices of veal, smothered in tomato sauce allegedly enriched with goat cheese and loaded with purple kalamata olives. 250 Spanish Village. 972-866-0888. $$.



Isola Gozo. The parking lot just doesn’t help the ambience. But the best you can hope for from a restaurant in NorthPark is some retail compatibility. Thin-crusted pizza is always the star-a perfectly proportioned layering of bread and lopping, just held together with cheese. The fare at Isola Gozo is sophisticated and good and deserves a better setting. The Market. NorthPark Center, Park Ln. at Central Expwy. 214-691-0488.$$.



Maggiano’s Little Italy. Chicken Giardina is four, huge half-breasts, fried and smothered to death with sautéed vegetables. The ealamari is only inoffensive. But the lamb chops with rosemary garlic are excellent-rosy, juicy, and fragrant-and the fettucine alfredo is cooked correctly, sauced in a eoat-the-spoon cream. To bring it back to the basics, and to the dish that sums up the Maggiano’s experience, don’t miss the spaghetti and meatballs. 205 NorthPark Center, Park Ln. at Central Expwy. 214-360-0707. $$-$$$.



D BEST Mi Piaci. Housemade is a term MiPiaci doesn’t take lightly-the kitchen makes its own pastas and cures its own meats. Every other ingredient is either imported or hand-picked. A bow] of the Tuscan classic ribollita could be enough for a meal. But don’t neglect the spicy penne arrabbiata, the three thin scallops of veal perched on a pile of portobello mushrooms, or the asparagus and cheese tortelli-ni with a fragile Marsala sauce. 14854 Montfort Dr. 972-934-8424. $$-$$$.



D BEST Modo Mio. Chef owner Rino Brigliadori’s small traditional rustic Italian menu is consistently dependable. starting with the asparagus, eggplant, and goat cheese antipasto and finishing with the softly sweetened sorbets. In-between we have always been happy ordering gnocchi Modo Mio. but special sea bass in tomato broth is an offering we will never refuse. 18352 Dallas Pkwy. 972-671-6636. $$.



Nero’s. Chef Luigi Lama has been serving pink garlic bread and Caesar salad for 15 years, but we prefer his Linguinie Fra Diavlo-a steaming plate of sea scallops, gulf shrimp, and mushrooms in a spicy marinara sauce. Of course, the regular pasta dishes are above average, and his homemade white chocolate ice cream has customers driving long distances just for dessert. 2104 Greenville Ave. 214-826-6376. $$.

Nicola’s. Nicola’s makes its own cheeses and frozen desserts. The deliciously light and creamy Mozzarella délia Casa includes handmade cheese layered with grilled eggplant and oven-roasted peppers, finished with basil-infused oil and balsamic vinegar, Farfalle con Salsiccia. pasta butterflies with dainty slices of sausage and a light bath of rich tomato cream sauce, is a little too light-handed. But you’ll be Nold on the chocolate hazelnut gelato cone. In the Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy. at LBJ. 972-788-1177.$$.



Patrizio’s. Move over, Campisi’s. Patrizio’s signature crab claws just took firs! place in the crab claws competition. Soft and delicate, they slip off the exoskeleton and melt in your mouth like, well, butter. Oh, yes-you should eat dinner, too: There’s the chicken and mushroom lasagna (good, but rich) and the baked ziti (we had leftovers for breakfast). The prices aren’t what you’d expect with Escada and Calvin Klein just a kiss away. Highland Park Village, Mockingbird Ln. at Preston Rd. 214-522-7878. $$



Ruggeri’s. We’re happy to report that our old favorite chicken parmigiano remains unscathed. It’s still served sautéed to the appropriate firmness without becoming blobby or covered with too much tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. Even on busy weekends, service flows evenly. 2911 Routh St. 214-871 -7377; 5348 Belt Line Rd. 972-726-9555. $$.



D BEST Salve! Like sister restaurant Mi Piaci, home style Tuscan is the backbone of Salve!. Casual all-day dining in the bar features pizza, calzones. and panini. In the evenings, the extensive menu in the elegant dining room is the perfect opportunity for a sophisticated Italian feast. Brodetta Adriatica. a pile of clams, mussels, shrimp, and lobster is as fresh as a Mediterranean breeze perfumed with saffron. 2120 McKinney Ave. 214-220-0070. $$-$$S.



Terilli’s. A Lower Greenville fixture. Terilli’s packs in a semi-sophisticated crowd for such-as-it-is jazz and an eclectic menu featuring the signature item with the silly name: “Italcho’s” (crisp chips of pizza dough topped with mozzarella and a choice of toppings). Food ranges from pretty good to so-so. but devotees find that Terilli’s is more than the sum of its parts. 2815 Greenville Ave.214-827-3993. $$.



Vittos. The menu attempts several ambitious dishes-including some veal preparations- but most people stick to the pasta and pizza. We like the “different” pizzas: one topped with spinach, goat cheese, and red peppers; the other with garlic, spinach, bacon, and pepperoni. 316 W. 17th St. 214-946-1212. $-$$.



JAPANESE

Chaya Sushi. The tuna roll is lean, deep red, and fresh. From the robata bar. try the chargrilled sirloin-thinly sliced, bite-sized morsels of rare tenderloin dipped in ponzu sauce, Gulf shrimp. sautéed in a light ginger sauce, is fragrant and firm. And our all-time favorite dish-simple to make, but hard to make well-is the miso soup. We believe this hot, nourishing version has healing properties. 101 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 214-361-0220. $$.



Deep Sushi. Remember thai American sushi is as much style as substance, and you’ll be happy here. There’s a lot of style, and even some good sushi, if you fish carefully. Watch out for the dragon lady roll, a combination of tuna, avocado, and rice flashed with incendiary wasabi, red pepper sauce, and Japanese yellow mustard wrapped in seaweed and sliced. 2624 Elm St. 214-651-1177. $$-$$$.



Fishbowl. The small but ambitious menu reflects the 1960s Pan-Asian concept: Trader Vic’s-style cocktails, sushi, sake, and noodles, all served tapas-style one small plate at a time. A meal is a series and may include a best seller like peanut chicken satay as well as Stephan Pyles’ innovative version of mu shu pork tacos served with thai basil slaw. Dinner only. 3214 Knox St. 214-521-2695.



Nakamoto. Service tends to range from sublime to abrupt at this stylish, roomy Piano institution, but cuisine (tempura, sushi, and sashimi) remains uniformly excellent. 3309 N. Central Expwy, at Parker Rd.. Piano. 972-881-0328. $$.



Rock & Roll Sushi. Rock V roll is here to stay, and obviously, so is sushi. Rock & Roll Sushi’s California concept is part fish, part gimmick. Around the circular bar is a stream with a flotilla of lacquered boats bearing sushi. The things we like best are the least traditional, and at lunch, the bento boxes are a good deal. 6109B Berkshire Ln. 214-987-1966 $$-$$$.



Royal Tokyo. It’s a hibachi steak room, it’s a sushi bar (Dallas’ first), and it’s a show palace. You can leave your shoes at the door and eat in one of their Tamati Rooms or sit around grill tables where Japanese chefs perform slice and dice like Samurai warriors. It’s a great way to get kids to eat their vegetables. 7525 Greenville Ave. 214-368-3304. $$.



Tei Tei. We still haven’t tasted the kobe beef (which comes from cattle fed with beer and massaged with sake), but Tei Tei is a destination restaurant anyway. The “kinki fish” is a whole fish (snapper) slashed to the bone, so the flesh lifts out easily with chopsticks. To eat the soft-shell crab, abandon the Eastern eating utensils and resort to the god-given: fingers. 2906 N. Henderson Ave. 214-828-2400. $$-$$$.



D BEST Teppo. Our only yakitori bar is also one of the city’s most exciting sushi bars and a favorite weekend date destination. High-energy atmosphere, highly chic modem décor, and high-quality food make this one of Dallas’ best Japanese restaurants, even though the menu is mostly skewers and sushi. Be sure to try the specials. 2014 Greenville Ave. 214-826-8989. $$-$$$.

D REVISITS Yamaguchi. Yamaguchi is ananomaly. We like to call it the thinking man’s sushi bar. Far from being wrapped up in the traditional trappings of sushi showmanship, Yamaguchi focuses on flavor and treats it seriously. A quick look around the sparsely appointed dining room and sushi bar yields an American waitress and wait–what’s that? A round-eye behind the sushi bar? Blasphemy aside. Michelle Carpenter is one of the best sushi chefs around, albeit one of the more mysterious ones. She will not share any of her choice secrets, not even with Yamaguchi-san. the owner and head chef. Service is precise and caring, better than we’ve had in most sushi bars. Entrées reflect a balance of tortuously fine flavor, fresh ingredients, and design on the plate. Those flavors blend to oxymoronic subtle heights, the dishes are .served low-key and without much fanfare. This isn’t a bad thing, especially when you’ve got to have it, but don’t have the energy for high-flying hubbub. 7713 Inwood Rd. at Lovers Ln. 214-350-8660.$$$.



LATIN AMERICAN

Caribbean Grill. Jumbo shrimp marinated in coconut milk, lightly fried and rolled in coconut shreds is one of the best appetizers we’ve had all year. Jerk chicken is moist inside, with a thin crusty coating of spices, and the dipping sauce is a killer honey-mustard concoction spiced with hot relish (chow) from Trinidad. Stay busy with their large selection of bottled hoi sauces and soothe your burning tongues with homemade Key lime pie. 3068 Forest Ln. 972-241-9113. $-$$.



Fogo de Chao. This is not a place for the faint of heart. Or the not-very-hungry. Once you’ve signaled “go” by turning your ordering chip from red to green, you are immediately bar-raged by gaucho-clad waiters waving huge skewers of assorted meats. The Lombo-pork loin crusted with parmesan-can be dry, but the Frallinha (bottom sirloin) is tender, and the Picanha (rump steak with lots of garlic) will make you send the other waiters away. The centerpiece of the restaurant is the beautiful salad bar-vegetarians who can gel past the carnivorous atmosphere will find nirvana in the form of big bowls of steamed asparagus, mozzarella cheese balls, rice, marinated red peppers, hearts of palm, and sun-dried tomatoes. 4300 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-503-7300. $$.



Gloria’s. Gloria’s was serving pupusas and other exotic Salvadorian and Mexican dishes before the hot Latin craze was cool. Discover the unique tastes with Gloria’s Super Sampler, starring a tamale stuffed with chicken wrapped and steamed in a fresh banana leaf. The chocolate flan coated in caramel should be on every menu in town. 3715 Greenville Ave. 214-874-0088. $-$$.



Samba Room. It’s impossible not to feel transported to an exotic Havana night-huge palm trees; windows covered by wooden-slat shutters; warm browns, ochre, and cobalt blue set the mellow, sexy tone for the whole room. Arepas-beef marinated in sherry, cooked with onion and peppers, then shredded into a mound and surrounded by triangles of griddled sweet com cakes topped with a slight drizzle of sour cream-are superb. A silver martini shaker filled with long, thin strips of Yuca Frita-fried yuca seasoned with lime and garlic-makes trench fries obsolete. 4514TravisSt.2l4-522-4137.$$.



Texas de Brazil. No need for menus here-it’s one price tits all, Skewer-swagging waiters slice varied cuts of slow-roasted (and extremely flavorful ) filet, picanha, rack of lamb, top sirloin, and pork loin from their swords right onto your plate. The salad bar features 30 hefty items besides salad, including tabbouleh and marinated mushrooms, and the requiredfeijoa-da (the national dish of Brazil). 15101 Addison Rd. 972-385-1000.$$$.



MEDITERRANEAN

Adelmo’s. Some go for the food, some go for the intimacy, but almost everybody finds a reason to go back to this well-hidden gem. Service is unhurried and patient, and the wine list is varied and reasonable. Entrées and appetizers alike feature creatively bold sauces that will hold your attention long after the main ingredients of the dishes have been devoured. 4537 Cole Ave. 214-559-0325. $$.



II Sole. Chef Tim Penn focuses on Mediterranean food, sometimes to brilliant effect. Long fingers of tender pan-fried cala-mari dip easily into a spicy red chile sauce. Wonderful warm putanesca pasta crowded with kalamata olives, capers, tomatoes, and garlic pops with flavor. Nice by-the-glass wine selection. 4515 Travis St. 214-559-3888. $$-$$$.



Popolos. Popolos has reopened and most of the original staff and popular menu items are back. One visit we sat at the bar and nibbled thin-erusted pizza layered with tomato, kalamata olives, capers, and garlic. Another night we feasted on the always dependable (and enough for two)Chicken piccata. For those without Sansabelt pants, the fat-free angel food cake bruscetta is a guilt-free ending. 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 214-692-5497. $$.



D BEST Suze. The attitude is casual.

sophisticated, and neighborhood friendly. The food is a funky blend of Mediterranean fare that rotates continually and includes Prince Edward Island mussels steamed in coconut milk, cilantro. and chipotle broth that .should not be missed. Former Toscana wiz Gilbert Garza has proved he is a chef to be reckoned with-his double cut pork chops rubbed with red curry and topped with dried cherry sauce is a gastronomic work of art. 4345 W. Northwest Hwy. at Midway Rd. 214-350-6135. $$.



Tony’s Wine Warehouse. This place is basically a wine warehouse with some tables crammed in the back and a kitchen turning out above-average Mediterranean fare. Veal medallions gently sautéed with port wine, roasted garlic, and shiitake mushrooms paired nicely with a Nuit Saint Georges we picked from a bin on the floor. The wine prices are retail; there is no corkage fee. 2904 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-520-9463. $$.



MEXICAN

Anamia’s. The basics-cheese enchiladas, cheese tacos, guacamole. and beef tacos-are all above average, the surprise being the usually boring beef taco full of chili powder-spiced beef. Shrimp comes wafting the scent of lime, covered with nuggets of sautéed garlic, on a bed of sautéed celery, zucchini, carrots, mushrooms, and jalapefios. For two bucks, you can get an order of sopaipillas–a platter of three gold puffs sent from heaven with a little honey. 106 Denton Tap Rd., Suite 240. Coppell. 972-304-0321.$. Margaritas.



D BEST Avila’s. At Avila’s you can find all the flavors of Mexican food without the lard. Chili relleno isn’t battered and deep-fried; it’s gently roasted and stuffed with cheese or meat and covered in a light ranchera sauce. Enchiladas can be customized from a mix and match ingredients menu and is a must for vegetarians looking for a Tex-Mex fix. 4714 Maple Ave. 214-520-2700. $.



Galle Doce. The new Lakewood digs has the same menu and quality as the popular Oak Cliff location. Undoubtedly the best Mexican seafood in town, the fresh cold seafood cocktails-octopus, ceviche. and oysters-are full of spicy tomato sauce with chunks of celery and green peppers. The grilled whole catfish served with rice and vegetables shouldn’t be missed. 1925 Skillman. 214-824-9900: 415 W. 12thSt.214-94M304.$$.



Casa Navarro. This little cafe in a former 7-Eleven specializes in the same unpretentious cheesy fare we used to love before Tex-Mex became chic. The beer is bring-your-own, and on Wednesdays the enchilada plate is S3.75 all day long. Sopaipillas. once the darling dessert at every Tex-Mex joint, are still handmade, light, and greaseless, such a surprisingly elegant finish to the meal that we wished we’d brought our demitasse. too. 11742A Marsh Ln. at Forest Ln. 972-357-0141.$.



Casa Rosa. There’s almost always a table available at the pink-tinted Casa Rosa, but only because the place is so big. The appeal of the food would certainly pack a smaller place. Casa Rosa does well with standards-except the chimichanga- but the real finds here are the more unusual dishes such as the goat cheese chile relleno and the mushroom enchiladas. 165 Inwood Village. 214-350-5227.

$-$$.



D BEST Ciudad. Monica Greene, the genius behind Monica’s Aca y Alla, ups her own ante by delivering dishes based on true Mexico City-style cuisine.

Tender barbecued pork wrapped in fresh corn tortillas mix easily with a tropica! fruit salsa, and an 8-ounce beef tenderloin topped with melted asadero cheese is surrounded with a spicy red tomato sauce with a side of epazote-scented black beans. Por favor, save room for elegant desserts. 3888 Oak Lawn Ave., Ste. 135. 214-219-3141.5$-$$$. 7



Cuquita’s. You won’t find a list of Tex-Mex combination plates or even a margarita here, but you will find authentic specialties like beef tongue simmering in a pepper-studded tomato sauce and tender fillets of pork sauteed with onions and spices. Everything goes down easy with a glass of freshly squeezed lemonade or a Bohemia. 2326 N. Henderson Ave. 214-823-1859. S. Beer only.



Javier’s Gourmet Mexican. Javier’s hook is Mexico City Mexican food, and the atmosphere isn’t Tex-Mex kitschy but sophisticated. Salsa is nicely warmed, and margaritas are the real thing. Filete Cantinflas may look like a fried puck, but inside the stiff crust is a cheese-stuffed filet mignon with a brick-colored chile sauce-it’s too rich to eat and too good not to try. 4912ColeAve. 214-521-4211.$$.

Las Cazuelas, This tiny East Dallas jewel serves up marvelous food, starting with the killer salsa that’s made with fresh cilantro. onion.

and tomato essences. On Mondays, the special calao de res. chunky with beef and vegetables, is fabulous, as is the super-hot chile relleno. 4933 Columbia Ave. 214-827-1889. $.



Luna De Noche. The secret is out in Garland. Luna Noche is playing in the Mexican food big leagues with stellar versions of cheese enchiladas, guacamole, and nachos. Thankfully the margaritas are more sour than I sweet, and the Polio Pepian is a juicy chicken breast simmering in delicious chicken broth, ancho chile, and pecan sauce. The fruit flautas are the best dessert find around. 7602 Jupiter Rd. at Lookout Dr.. Garland. 972-414-3616, $-$$. Margaritas.



Martin’s Cocina. The kitchen here does magic , things with seafood (shrimp especially) and offers a listing of entrées that weigh in at less than 1,000 calories each, including the four chiles rellenos. But only skimp if you want to-the most basic combination plate starts with a lettuce-topped chalupa, its toasty tortilla thickly spread with guacamole. 7726 Ferguson Rd. 214-319-8834. $-$$.



Mattito’s. The Baja shrimp stuffed with Monterey Jack cheese and fresh jaiapenos then wrapped in bacon is a change of pace from our favorite Matt Martinez recipe: chiles rellenos stuffed with cheese and topped with ranchero sauce, sour cream, raisins, and pecans. The gorditos we tried were dry and tasteless, but save room for chocolate caramel nachos-this is a destination dessert. 5290 Belt Line Rd. at Montfort Dr., Addison. 972-503-8100. $-$$.



D BEST Watt’s Rancho Martinez. The place is filled with the faithful at every meal because the flautas are the best in Dallas, the chile relleno is food for the gods, and even a combination plate satisfies, if you don’t mind processed cheese, 6332 La Vista Dr. 214-823-5517. $-$$.



Mi Cocina. The food is dependably good al all five locations. If there’s a line, cool your heels with great margaritas. The menu features upscale dishes in addition to basic tacos and enchiladas–tacos habanas are stuffed with chicken and covered with ground chile and cilantro; Latin stir-fry fajitas provide a new option for vegetarians. 11661 Preston Rd. 214-265-7704. Multiple locations. $-$$.



D BEST Monica’s Aca y Alla. Monica Greene continues to serve the best food bargains in town. Most lunches are less than $5, and the choices are not your normal Tex-Mex combinations. We’ve gorged on green enchiladas, mushroom quesadillas. and spinach-jalapeno fettuccine with chicken. | roasted com, cilantro. and black beans in a cream shallot béchamel sauce. Tuesday food is half-price and Wednesday’s freshly squeezed lime margaritas are only 50 cents. 2914 Main St, 214-748-7140. $-$$.

Nuevo Leon. Nuevo Leon has the uncanny knack of blending perfectly with a neighborhood while serving the same menu at every location. Somehow, the carnitas al pastor are hearty.

country fare in Farmers Branch (the original location), fiesta party fare on Greenville Avenue, and mod-Mex in the latest location on Oak Lawn Avenue. Service is slick, and the food is excellent-fat enchiladas, avocado-like cold cream, thick tortillas. So far. this is a winning formula, 3211 Oak Lawn Aye. 214-522-3331. Multiple locations. $-$$.



Omega’s. It’s easy to imagine ending evenings at Omega’s. Bui fortunately. Omega’s is also a great place to lunch, and it’s even a comfortable place to eat alone. This friendly little cafe nu a Deep Ellum side street serves a complimentary cup ol’ chile con queso with the wanned salsa and tostados. There’s nothing particularly original about the menu, but the basic cheese-oozing enchilada plate is pure comfort food. 212 N, Crowdus St. 214-744-6842.$.



Pepe & Mito’s. The vivid walls and bright lights mean this cafe looks noisy even though it’s not usually crowded, it should be-chips worth mentioning (thick, warm, slightly overcooked), cilantro-laced salsa, and standards like nachos and enchiladas are excellent. Tamales are utterly remarkable, and chicken and beef taquitos are still some ol’ the best in town. 2935 Elm St. 214-741-1901. $. Margaritas.



Piano Tortilla Factory. If you live in Piano, the this little place should be at the top of your list for a quick bite, takeout, or delivery. The appeal doesn’t end with the food-the owner is quick to strike up a conversation and make you feel welcome. Low prices are a bonus, too. 1009 E. 18th St.. Piano. 972-423-6980. $.



Primo’s. On the “Mex”side of the Tex-Mex fare, enchiladas come with cheddar cheese gurgling in thick chili con came and topped with more cheese. The cheese-fest continues with a “Tex” version of a chili relleno: a cheese-stuffed poblano pepper, dipped in a queso and egg batter, then deep-fried. The amount of money the kitchen spends on cheese could probably put a man on the moon-there is even grated cheese on the side salads. We ate it all. 3309 McKinney Ave. 214-220-0510. $.



Rain’s. We love the seasoned red snapper lopped with crabmeat, wrapped in foil, an cooked in its natural juices. The full-on Tex-Mex regulars of hefty beef enchiladas and sour cream chicken enchiladas never fail. And we never leave without sinfully submerging a sopaipilla dusted with powdered sugar into a warm ramekin of honey. 5917 Lovers Ln. 214-357-2080.$-$$.



Rodolfo’s. Start with the home-fried chips, huge half-tortilla rounds served with a full-bodied salsa. Then try the Big Tex-Mex dinner or the No. 0 (yes. they start numbering at zero), The star on the No. 0 plate is the Idaho enchiladas made ol’, yes, mashed potatoes, pleasantly spiced and available with a choice of seven different sauces. 2002 S. Edgefield Ave. 214-942-1211.$.

Sol’s. The goal here seems to be to offer pretty good Mexican food in a pretty comfortable place to folks who live pretty close. Sol’s has found a niche where old-fashioned combination plates-oozing enchiladas, rich chili gravy, deep-fried Hamas, and lush gua-camole-are all that’s required. Nachos come with a pile of sliced jalapenos. margaritas have plenty of tequila, and the set is tuned to Mexican TV. Really, what more do you want on a Sunday evening? 6434 Mockingbird Ln. 214-821-7911.$-$$.

Taco Diner. The name sounds slightly retro. But the tacos at the Diner are real Mexican soft tacos. not drive-through, crunchy, greasy Tex-Mex mutations. The corn tortillas are the star here; no matter what you wrap them around, the result is good-chicken with cojita cheese, grilled pork, and meaty mushrooms are all complemented by the fragrant masa tortillas. Service is hit-or-miss. 4011 Villanova Dr. 214-696-4944. $. Margaritas.



MIDDLE EASTERN

Al-Amir. The Mediterranean meets the rising sun at Al Amir, which took the place of a Japanese restaurant. The result is an odd, melting-pot ambience. Concentrate on the plate-Middle Eastern expectations are well-met with good renditions of hummus, baba ghanoush. and lamb. But there are also some less well-known dishes to try. 7402 Greenville Ave. 214-739-2647. $$.



Ali Baba. Order hummus and you get a bowl swirled with the garlicky purée, pooled with yellow olive oil. dusted with parsley, and adorned with slick olives. That and a slack of hot pita could do you. but the grilled chicken is irresistible, and the tabbouleh, mostly chopped parsley with bits of bulghur and tomato, is a perfect counterpoint to the unctuous chickpea mash. 1905 Greenville Ave. 214-823-8235. $-$$.



Basha. Basha was one of the first in the wave of Middle Eastern restaurants that have opened in Dallas in the last few years. And it remains one of the best of a good lot. The menu is less predictable than many of Dallas’ Lebanese restaurants, offering dishes outside the usual selection of hummus, baba ghanoush. rice, and grilled everything. Breast of chicken breaded in crushed pistachios is an excellent idea-so is fragrant lamb shank, cooked till it is stew on the bone. OK, hummus is good, too. 2217 Greenville Ave. 214-824-7794. $$.



Cafe Istanbul. The tiny kitchen overachieves on most of its Turkish dishes, especially if you like it spicy. The dining room gets cozy at night, but those who tolerate early evening daylight are rewarded with a happy hour. Solid service tops off a superb all-around experience. 5450 W. Lovers Ln.. Ste. 222. 214-902-0919.$-$$.



D BEST Cafe Izmir. This remains one of , the best little restaurants in Dallas. The space is small, the service is friendly, and the choices are simple-all you have to say is “meat” or “veg” and the food starts coming. The mezes platter–hummus, baba ghanoush, and Russian chicken salad, all designed to spread on warm pita bread-is a regular. Wash il down with a bottle of the Boutari. and you’ll be happy. 3711 Greenville Ave. 214-826-7788.$$.



Hedary’s. The original Hedary’s was a destination restaurant in Fort Worth long before hummus became hip. Maybe it’s just the Dallas loca tion that’s stopped trying. More garlic in the baba ghanoush, please. Less leathery lahvosh. You have to watch that kibbe; it tends to get dry if it’s cooked too long. Where’s that nice Greek red we like with our iamb? We know better now 7915 Belt Line Rd. 972-233-1080. $$.



MOROCCAN

D BEST Marrakesh.,lust what is Moroccan cuisine, and what is it doing in Dallas? It is lamb and couscous and fresh vegetables spiced with mysterious combinations of nutmeg, paprika, and cumin-wonderful. The Moroccan Feast-a sample of almost everything on the menu-is a bargain at $26.95 per person. Vibrant Middle-Eastern music accompanies a veiled belly dancer in a purple bra who gyrates and finger-cymbals her way around the room. 5207 W. Lovers Ln. 214-357-4104.$$.



NEW AMERICAN

Airfares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-high, revolving restaurant appears to be finding its wings al last. Huge sea scallops were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes and shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a roasted shallot vinaigrette. Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion Blvd. 214-651-1234.$$-$$$.

Beau Nash. The beautiful dining room is aging gracefully, and the light-sparkled, romantic conservatory at night remains one of the delights of Dallas dining. The Cobb salad and smoked chicken com chowder still win Best of Kind, and desserts are a dream-try the rich pillow of mocha mousse sandwiched between two dark chocolate cake slices. Hotel Crescent Court, 2215 Cedar Springs Rd. 214-871-3240.

Chaparral Club. The ancho-rubbed chicken (with bones!) can be a little salty, but the creamy goat-cheese stuffing guarantees moist meat. The bone-in filet, along with truffled mashed potatoes and cubed root vegetables sautéed together, make a plate that satisfies all senses. Don’t miss The Perfect Dessert: a satiny sphere of white chocolate split and filled with fresh blueberries and raspberries sliding around in a pool of crème Anglaise. Adam’s Mark Hotel, 400 N. Olive St. 214-922-S000. $$-$$$.



City Cafe. This California-inspired, mostly family-run cafe opened more than a dozen years ago but remains in the top tier of Dallas restaurants. The charming, but dim, dining room is furnished with cottage antiques, and the food is classic, with a wake-up flash of invention, Fresh tomato basil soup is famous. The service is confident and careful, and the American wine list is one of the best. 5757 W. Lovers Ln. 214-351-2233.$$.



Dakota’s. The pad of paper and pen beside the plate are the first clue to Dakota’s lunchtime target. That’s if you didn’t notice the standard lunchtime uniforms around every table-pinstripes preferred. The menu is correspondingly conservative, focusing on grilled meats and predictable pastas, with imaginative New American touches on some dishes, like the venison sausage in the quesadillas and the tortilla crust on the halibut. For a business meal, though, the noise level needs to come way down. 600 N.Akard St. 214-740-4001.$$.



Gershwin’s. Pretty people, pretty food, pretty prices set the scene for power lunching in this California-influenced Upper Greenville emporium, where on-track careerists linger over creative fare noontimes and gather after work to share single malts, tall foods, and to people-watch. An outstanding wine list. too. 8442 Walnut Hill Ln. 214-373-7171.$$-$$$.



Guthrie’s. Luckily Guthrie’s sits next to our parking lot downtown. That makes it easy to dash over for a quick luncheon comfort-food fix of roasted chicken and mashed potau>es. Chef William Guthrie gets creative at night and turns out brilliant versions of pork schnitzel with sautéed mushroom and a killer version of fish and chips. 400 S. Ervay St. 214-760-7900.$-$$.



D BEST Laurels. Rising star executive chef and general manager Danielle Custer brings her cutting-edge cuisine to Westin Park Central’s 20th floor. Incomprehensible dishes like pear soup with plum wine crème fra?che don’t make sense until you put them in your mouth. You have to trust Custer: She thinks with her palate, and the results are brilliant. Westin Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr. 972-385-3000. $$-$$$.



The Mansion on Turtle Creek. This isn’t dinner; it’s a dining experience. A dramatic, country club-like, members-only dining experience. The Grande Dame of Dallas dining continues to live up to its legend-the atmosphere is inimitably posh, and the food is predictably innovative. The price? If you have to ask. you can’t afford it, 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 214-526-2121.$$$.



The Mercury. Chef Chris Ward has taken control of the kitchen and is doing a bang-up job. A normally pedestrian potato soup was delivered thick and hot and the arugula pesto drizzled on top provided the perfect kick of flavor. Two savory pork chops resting easily beside a creamy rosemary risotto was easy on the eye and palate. 1418 Preston Forest Sq. 972-960-7774. $$.



Parigi. Menus still change weekly, and the food is prepared to order, by hand. Service can be a little flaky, but the food-specials and perennials;-is excellent. The famous beef tenderloin with mustard sauce and “smashed” potatoes is as good as ever, the beef rare and unusually flavorful, the potatoes buttery and just lumpy. It’s been on the menu since Parigi opened. A long time. 3311 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-521-0295.$$.



Rooster. The room is as easily gracious as a family dining room. And the staff offers naturally Southern-style hospitality. The traditional Senate bean soup is authentic-substantial and scented with smoky ham-and the breadbasket is rilled with com muffins and bacon biscuits. The catfish, thick and white as cake, is crusted with molasses and pecans, then sauced with brown butter. 3521 Oak Grove Ave. 214-521 -1234.$$.



Sevy’s. The thoroughly American Prairie-style interior perfectly complements chef-owner Jim Severson’s hearty American cuisine. The plaies here present classic ideas with imaginative updates. The menu is varied, but beef is a reliable choice-the tenderloin is slightly hickory smoked. The marinated mushroom appetizer is the best portobello in town. 8201 Preston Rd. 214-265-7389.$$.



Tillman’s Corner. The signature New American dishes of late owner and chef Ricky Tillman still lake top honors. Pork medallions with roasted chile sauce are tender and come nestled against light whipped potatoes scented with horseradish, and the salmon roasted on cedar planks is scented with a mild burgundy sauce, A slice of warm apple caramel pie is enough for two, and the Tillman’s special coffee-spiked with three liquors-is reason enough to sit back and relax in this home away from home. 324 W. 7th St. at Bishop PI. 214-942-0988, $-$$.



D REVISITS Tramontana. Nine months after coming behind the lineal Al Biemet’s to purchase Tramontana. chef James Neel has successfully stretched his culinary skills beyond steak and lobster madness. He and his wife Lisa have spruced up the intimate interior with a few new murals, added a chef’s table, and created a delightful New American menu with Italian and French accents. They have even managed to assemble a casual wait staff that is friendly and proper at the same time. Our only disappointment stemmed from a menu miscommunica-tion: After ordering “grilled pears with butter walnuts and apple-smoked bacon with Roquefort cheese and a port wine vinaigrette” we expected a warm salad, but four thin slices of cold pears on mixed greens arrived not resembling anything we’d hoped for. However, everything else we sampled rose above our expectations. Chef Neel has taken what could be just another rack of lamb and made it special by adding a pile of perfectly roasted beets and mushrooms to the plate, Osso buco fans be warned-bring your own marrow forks-after devouring the veal braised in red wine, we brazenly blew the marrow out of the bone ourselves. A key lime trifle was so tart it puckered our mouth, but the silky banana foster cream pie soothed our souls. 8220-B Westchester Dr.. Preston Center. 214-368^ 188. $$.



York Street As Dallas restaurants get bigger and bigger, this little chef-owned cafe seems smaller and smaller. And its value rises as the qualities we love about it become rarer and rarer. The choices of elegant food-pheasant paté with pears, frogs” legs, roast duck, and quail- are a wonderful relief from beef and chicken. It’s easy for dinner to spin into hours of con versation because the atmosphere is so conducive to it. 6047 Lewis St. 214-826-0968. $$-$$$.



SEAFOOD

AquaKnox. Since the lounge was turned into Fishbowl, the sexy blue chenille dining room of AquaKnox feels like half a restaurant. The décor isn’t the only boat that’s been rocked here. We’ve had a good meal-brilliantly seared beef tenderloin with chipotle mashed potatoes-and we’ve had a bad meal-salty red snapper with gooey com pudding. But overall Stephan Pyles seems to have steadied the course with the addition of new executive chef Ethan Powell. 3214 Knox St. 214-219-2782. $$$.



Cafe Pacific. Cafe Pacific continues to delight as one of Dallas’ most reliable luncheon and dinner restaurants, as well as the place to witness the social structure of Dallas” power people in action. Menu favorites like calamari. clam chowder. Caesar salad, salmon, and red snapper are superbly prepared and presented by an experienced staff. 24 Highland Park Village. 214-526-1170.$$-$$$.



Fish. After a long float in troubled waters, Fish has plugged up the holes in the sinking standard of their food. The laurel-scented Chilean sea bass with roasted sweet peppers and leeks has been tweaked and now includes jumbo shrimp and ginger rice. Delicious grilled, pep-per-crusted sea scallops served on hot creamy risotto-flavored with lemon, red peppers, and sweet basil is a comfort and a delight. 302 S. Houston St. 214-747-3474. $$$.



Fishmonger’s. Over the years, we’ve had good and bad experiences at Fishmonger’s, but never great ones. The crawfish étoufée’s only resemblance to Cajun cuisine is the fact thai it looks like the muddy Mississippi. Tuna fajitas, a weird diversion from the mostly Cajun-themed menu, are tasteless strips of grilled tuna rolled in tortillas and served with a tortilla soup made with shrimp. But seafood gumbo is surprisingly well-flavored and tilled with loads of okra. tomato, and baby shrimp. 1915 N. Central Expwy. 972-423-3699. $-$$.



Lefty’s. The menu is small, but Lefty’s features everything you’d expect a good lobster house to have, including beef for those who don’t like seafood. One bargain: the one-pound lobster with baked potato and com for $ 10.95. 402 1 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 972-774-9518. $$.



D BEST Lombardi Mare. Few seafood kitchens in town offer as many varieties of fresh oysters. Recently we were served a disappointing plate of polenta-crusted salmon, but the pasta covered with lobster, shrimp, scallops, crabmeat, and asparagus restored our faith in Alberto Lombradi’s touch. Perfect setting and food to impress out-of-towners. Village on the Parkway. Montfort Dr. at Belt Line Rd. 972-503-1233.$$$.



Mainstream. While the other locations have drifted downstream, the Preston Forest neighbor-hood still lines up for casual seafood at reasonable prices. We can’t bring ourselves to eat seafood stew out of a bread bow), and the jumbo fried shrimp dinner is no better than average. 11661 Preston at Forest. 214-739-3474. $-$$. Margaritas.



Newport’s. Enjoy an imaginative seafood menu that we classify loosely as New England seafood with Asian and Cajun influences. Grilled tilapia is served with a side of sautéed apples, cilantro. and toasted pecans. And the tuna is a three-inch pan-seared hunk served in a bowl of rice and covered with sautéed portobel-los and roasted peppers-almost wonderful, except for the lake of teriyaki sauce drowning the rice. 703 McKinney Ave, 214-954-0220. $$-$$$.



Nicholini’s. Don’t be fooled by the neon lights outside, because once you’re seated in the sexy dining room, the dining experience is elegant. We love the herb-crusted orange roughy sauced sparingly with citrus paprika glaze. Attentive service and consistent food have the tables packed with neighborhood diners who all seem to know each other. 17370 Preston Rd. 972-735-9868,$$.



Rockfish. Rockfish is cozy and uneontrived; even die cute stuff, like the tin-pail light fixtures and the out-of-place ambience, like the rock fireplace on the patio overlooking the parking lot, feels comfortable. You can get an oversized platter filled with more than a pound of fresh crab, about 30 medium boiled shrimp, two ears of com, several new potatoes, and a foot of sausage for $22.99. Our main problem with Rockfish is that it’s a neighborhood restaurant, but it’s not in our neighborhood. 7639 Campbell Rd. at Coit. 972-267-8979. Multiple locations. $-$$.



SAD Oyster Company. S&D can do anything with shrimp, and they have been doing it for longer than we care to remember (or admit we do). The fried shrimp is so delicately breaded you can still see the pink-skinned flesh through the crust. Then it’s butterflied. lightly fried, and served with a dollop of tartar sauce-heavy on the pickle. And no meal here would be complete without a slice of the famous Key lime pie, 2701 McKinney Ave. 214-880-0111. $$.



Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab. Stone crabs are a new delicacy in Dallas, and they are sweet and rich. They’re also easy to eat: The kitchen cracks them for you, so all you have to do is break in and fish for the meat. You can eat other stuff with your crab (mediocre salad, onion rings, cole slaw, creamed spinach), but all you’ll remember is the claws and cake-four layers of dark chocolate cake covered with a whipped milk chocolate icing. 5001 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-503-3079; 2401 McKinney Ave. 214-220-2401.$$-$$$.



Vincent’s. This place hasn’t conformed to any current low-fat or global-spice trends; the signature Red Snapper a la Vincent’s is still a deli-ciously rich filet, lightly breaded, sautéed in loads of lemon butter, and topped with a huge clump of fresh crab. There is lighter side: A lovely broiled halibut is sauced with about half the snapper’s butler. The whole experience is completely unhip and. therefore, completely comforting. 2432 Preston Rd. at Park Blvd., Piano. 972-612-6208. $$-$$$.



SOUTHWESTERN

Blue Mesa. Blue Mesa has wisely stuck with its original concept of Southwestern fare: The table-side guacamole is truly a marvel, with avocados as smooth as congealed cream, Adobe pie, the signature dish, is as good as ever, as is the warm salsa and yam and tortilla chips. There’s a chur-rascaria section and a number of new entrées al die Lincoln Plaza location. Mexican-style blue com chicken enchiladas with tomatillo sauce are richer than anything ever dreamed up in Santa Fe. 7700 W. Northwest Hwy. 214-378-8686; 5100 Belt Line Rd. 972-934-0165. $$.



Ho Place. Tender elk sirloin and boneless rabbit are sided with sautéed portobello mushrooms and onions. Better-than-beef chicken-fried venison comes with Malt’s famous smoked mashed potatoes. The food is why Matt Martinez Jr. is a legend-in his own neighborhood, anyway. 6325 La Vista Dr. 214-328-9078.$$-$$$.



D BEST Star Canyon. Chef-owner Stephan Pyles has created a Dallas destination with his innovative “New Texas Cuisine.” An appetizer of fried green tomatoes stacked high with layers of Dallas-made mozzarella is a rare case of tall food tasting as good as ii looks. And the bone-in cowboy ribeye on a bed of pinto beans, covered with a mound of shoestring onion rings dusted with red chile, should be listed in Fodor’s under Dallas’ top attractions. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-520-7827. $$-$$$.



YD. Ranch. Though this is frontier fare, the kitchen can have a light touch. Delicately grilled, semi-boneless quail is delicious, and the special two-inch, 12-ounce pork chop is as moist and tender as a filet mignon, However, the buck stops short with an undercooked top sirloin. And the bar scene rocks with Jerry Jeff Walker tunes and cigar-smoking buckaroos- the perfect place to take your Yankee guests. 702 Ross Ave. 214-744-3287. $-$$.



SPANISH

Barcelona. Tapas in Spain, of course, are Spanish food. Greenville Avenue is global. So Barcelona serves snack food from all over the world, such as chicken satay, mezes, and tab-bouleh. as well as tortilla, the stacked potato omelet that is the quintessential Spanish tapa. and the buffalo burger-juicy and lean-on a toasted roll. 2100 Greenville Ave. 214-826-8600.$.



Cafe Madrid. Dallas’ first tapes bar remains its best, and everybody knows it. Even midweek, this little two-room restaurant has customers waiting at the bar for one of the mismatched tables in the storefront space. For those who insist, there is a prix-fixe, three-course dinner menu, but Cafe Madrid is a great place to linger over a succession of small dishes-an assortment of olives, oxtail stew, the potato omelette called a tortilla, and braised lamb slices. 4501 Travis St. 214-528-1731. $$.



Seville at the Stoneleigh. The menu is more than tapas at this upscale Spanish dining room that resembles chichi spots in Spain. Five varieties of paella headline the show and a tenderly braised rabbit comes served hunter-style in rich brown gravy that accents the mild-flavored meat. An extensive list of tapas makes it easy to make a meal with a combination of small plates. 2927 Maple Ave. 214-871-7111.$$$.



STEAKHOUSES

AI Biernat’s. The dinner menu’s specialty section features prime rib. rack of lamb, and jumbo lobsters. The entrées reveal the imagination of a chef who lias more on his mind than meal. The sea bass is moist, but the two mainstays-steak and lobster-are a problem. As for the lunch menu, the steak sandwich comes off well, and so do the slices of grilled and balsamic-dressed portobello mushroom and tomato fanned around a hummock of baked goat cheese. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-219-2201. $$-$$$.



Bob’s Steak and Chop House. We usually forego filets, preferring a more flavorful cut. but the three-inch nine-ounce is beautifully marbled and cooked perfectly pink and tender. It’s impossible not to love the “smashed” potatoes-they’re wickedly mashed with about a stick of butter in each serving. And the slight sweet glaze on Bob’s signature whole carrots side dish is a nice contrast to the beef. The atmosphere here is as comfortable as your grandmother’s dining room, but the restaurant is crowded with the Ross Perot and Jerry Jones set. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 214-528-9446. $$-$$$.



Capital Grilla. Normally we wouldn’t touch a high-dollar surf-and-turf chain restaurant with a 10-foot expense account, but here we make an exception. An 18-ounce Delmonico strip almost two inches thick was served hot on the outside with a cool pink center. But the surf stole our hearts-lobster filled with lightly breaded chunks of lobster, rock crab, and shrimp was a tasty bargain at $65. 500 Crescent Cl. 214-303-0500. $$$.



D BEST Chamberlain’s. Richard Chamberlain makes fine dining simple and elegant. You won’t find any singing cowboys or 20-page wine lists. Prime rib, a beautiful hand-cut aged beef, is perfectly seasoned with coarse salt and chunks of fresh cracked black pepper. We could pass on the meat here and still be happy with bowls of green beans and mushrooms sautéed in garlic and buttered com freshly shucked from the cob. 5330 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-934-2467, $$-$$$.



Charolais. Clair and John Rubede (Clair de Lune) have opened a new steak joint with a French twist-the menu only offers France’s favorite Charolais beef, But the seafood entrées rule. Redfish stuffed with shrimp and crab is delicately sauced with lemon butter and the broiled chicken isn’t just a token dish- c’est magnifique. 5950 Royal Ln. at Preston Rd. 214-692-0900.$$$



Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse. No complaints about the meats land at these prices there shouldn’t be)-you could cut the porterhouse with a fork. But the onion rings are our favorite dish. Each three-inch ring has the perfect ratio of breading to onion, but somehow the fry doesn’t separate from the onion-you get batter with every bite. The lobster tail isn’t worth the price. But this is one place where you get what you pay for, 525 I Spring Valley Rd. 972-490-9000. $$$.



Ki]rby’s Steakhouse. One dinner had six happy Yankee carnivores whistling Dixie, but more recently, we were served a puck-like filet sitting alone on a parsley-less plate. And we didn’t understand what made the mashed potatoes “famous”-we tasted nothing more than potatoes whipped with lots of pepper. On the other hand, service was attentive, and the prime rib was pure retro-quality. 3525 Greenville Ave. 214-821 -2122; 3408 Preston Rd.. Piano. 972-867-2122. $$.



Nick & Sam’s. Nick &. Sam’s is a steakhouse first, but it’s trying-and succeeding-to be more. For instance, there’s a raw bar ai the far end of the building, and the lobby bar area is a wine cellar with more than 300 wines. We ate the traditional steakhouse meal-a wedge salad with creamy lumps of Maytag blue cheese, surf-and-turf (snowy sweet lobster tail and soft filet), and a prime aged “cowboy steak” with sides. The most successful twist on the traditional steakhouse is the setting itself. This is not a faux men’s club-no brass, etched glass, or hunting paintings. 3008 Maple Ave. 214-871-7663.$$-$$$.



The Palm. The four-pound lobster (at S20 a pound!) is sweet and lender, but the 24-ounce New York strip tends to be overcooked. The Palm staffers are all veterans, and so are most of the customers, but don’t be intimidated by the chummy atmosphere. This is a club anyone with S80 to spare for a lobster can join. 701 Ross Ave. 214-698-0470. $$-$$$.



Randy’s Steakhouse. A meal in this cozy Victorian home-cum-restaurant can make you feel like you’re having dinner at a friend’s. But your friends never served steaks like these. Graded prime and cut by hand, these beauties are rich and buttery. Ten seafood selections offer plenty of alternate choices. 7026 Main St.. Frisco. 972-335-3066.$$-$$$.



Stone Trail Steakhouse. Lavish décor, live music for late dancing, an upscale menu and wine list mark this sprawling steak spread as the brainchild of restaurateur Tony Taherzadeh. former owner of Farfallo and Papillon. A clubby ambience and prescient service support terrific beef treatments (try the bone-in ribeye. an Everest of a steak); seafood and other meats provide variety. Dinner only. 14833 Midway Rd. 972-701-9600. $$$.

Sullivan’s Steakhouse, The knockout punch is a 24-ounce, bone-in ribeye coaled with lots of fresh ground pepper, perfectly cooked to medium rare. Smoked pork chops are grilled and served with a side of sweet, smoked apples. The side dishes are only average; the horseradish mashed potatoes could have used a little more horseradish, and the donut-sized onion rings are heavily beer-breaded and greasy. Prices are less than you’d expect. 17795 Dallas Pkwy. 972-267-9393. $$. “



III Forks. The special pepper sirloin is mealy and chewy, and the peppercorn sauce is dull. The trout swims in a weak brown sauce accompanied by a few lonely roasted pecans. But we do love the salad, a mix of mesclun. red oak leaf lettuce, and sliced green apple, topped with roasted pecans and crumbly Maytag blue cheese, all lightly dressed in a sweet vinaigrette. 17776 Dallas Pkwy. 972-267-1776. $$-$$$



THAI

Chow Thai. A strip shopping center doesn’t seem a likely spot for a Thai food epiphany, but you’ll have one here. Excellent Thai classics like vegetables in a fiery green curry and Pad Thai taste clean and light. A dessert of fresh mango atop sticky rice is a spectacular ending. 5290 Belt Line Rd. at Montfort Dr., Addison. 972-960-2999. $$.



Mango. This is the second restaurant from the folks who brought Chow Thai to Dallas. Playful proportions and offbeat hues color Mango California-cool. House special Mee Sea Go is an ocean broth full of scallops, shrimp, and cala-mari. Pad Thai is appropriately sweet and crunchy with peanuts. 4701 W. Park Blvd., Piano. 972-599-0289. $-$$.



Royal Thai. Furnished with ornate Thai antiques and traditional arts. Royal Thai is a pleasantly upscale change from the starkly serviceable interiors of so many Thai restaurants. Chicken packets are wrapped in tenderizing banana leaves. Curries are fragrant and benefit from their presentation under a little domed top. 5500 Greenville Ave. 214-691-3555. $-$$.



Thai Garden. Thai Garden serves homestyle Thai; a beautiful plate of beef satay skewered and grilled comes with a light creamy peanut sauce. The takeout is top-notch, too. Even the usually lowly Lo Mein is an elegant mixture of soft noodles, bean sprouts, cabbage, and celery in a silky broth. Rice pudding made with sweetened black rice blended with a salty-sweet coconut milk and topped with fresh lotus seed and fruit is a treat. 6090 Campbell Rd.. Ste. 124. 972-248-8861. $-$$.



Toy’s Cafe. This hole-in-the-wall joint has all the elements of a great neighborhood “find.” The tantalizing aroma of curry and garlic is welcoming. Thai iced tea is a hit: eggplant and toft] in Thai green-curry coconut milk is perfectly prepared. Squid salad with Thai herbs is fresh and tasty. 4422B Lemmon Ave. 214-528-7233. $.

VIETNAMESE

Green Papaya. If you’re going to leam anything about pronouncing Vietnamese, leam to say pho correctly. The traditional Vietnamese bowl of broth comes thick with rice noodles and your choice of beef, chicken, or meatballs. Most of the other traditional country dishes are good, but someone in the kitchen needs to adjust some of the uninspired seasonings. 3211 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-521-4811.$.



Mai’s. Mai’s is one of those places that has lots of loyal customers. The menu is stocked with authentic Vietnamese specialties, including lots of noodle and rice entrées and the classic hot pots: exotic meats, vegetables, and spices cooked and served in clay pots. Be sure and try the legendary Vietnamese coffee with sweetened condensed milk. 4812 Bryan St. 214-826-9887.$.



Mai’s Oriental Cuisine. The Vietnamese menu is the one to go for. Proprietor Mai Pham opened the first Vietnamese restaurant in Dallas, and her food is still terrific at her little restaurant in Snider Plaza. The hot pots are especially good-“hot chic” is the regulars’ favorite. 6912 Snider Plaza. 214-361-8220. $-$$.



Miss Saigon. Texas-sized portions abound at this authentic Vietnamese restaurant. Egg rolls the diameter of baby bottles, a mound of fried rice, a pile of lemon grass chicken, and three plate-sized mu shoo pancakes stuffed with Mongolian beef were all delicious and kept us fed for three days. 12300 Inwood Rd. 972-503-7110.$$.



VietNam. A little bit of Southeast Asia transplanted to East Dallas, VietNam has very little Western influence to make the cultural transition easier. This is Vietnamese food designed for the Vietnamese community. But some things are universal-the appeal of hot soup, for instance. And VietNam’s hot pot, a comforting, steaming cauldron of soup, noodles, and vegetables, is enough to share. 4302 Bryan St. 214-821-4542.$-$$.



FORT WORTH

D REVISITS Abuelo’s Mexican Food Embassy. Usually we stick to hole-in-the-wall joints, avoiding slick contrived cantina-esque restaurants like the tap water in Mexico. But when Abuelo’s opened in 1997, as Ricky Ricardo would say, we had some ’splainin’ to do. Folks were flocking to me grandiose Hurst location for upscale dishes based on recipes from the interior and coastal regions of Mexico. Our ears perked when they opened a second location in Arlington, and eventually a third in Lewisville. So we headed to Hurst to see what all the hoopla was about and found ourselves seated somewhat uncomfortably in a cavernous, peach stucco room tilled with life-sized palms and colorful folk art. A huge mural, of whom we assume to be Abuelo, towered over our shoulders with a Stalin-esque stare. We loved the house specialties of grilled bacon-wrapped shrimp stuffed with Monterey Jack and jalapeno and medallions of chicken breast stuffed with chorizo. The tortilla soup was obviously made from scratch judging by the gristle we pulled from the intense chicken broth loaded with tomatoes, onions, and chunks of avocado. But the Tex-Mex offerings made us long for a bring-your-own-six-pack joint-this kitchen is queso crazy and the huge combination platters are a globby mess of melted cheese, making it impossible to distinguish an enchilada from a tamale. 824 Airport Fwy., Hurst, 817-514-9355.$$.



Angelo’s. The big. wood-paneled dance hall of a room is lined with a self-service buffet line. cold-drink coolers, and chip racks on a linoleum floor. You grab a round tray and a frosted stein of Bud and eat from styrofoam plates under antler heads mounted on the walls. The chicken. served “while it lasts.” goes fast-it’s juicy and smoked off the bone. All the usual sides-beans, cole slaw-stand up to the ribs, but we wish they’d put more punch in their thin, vinegar-based sauce, 2533 White Settlement Rd.. Fort Worth. 817-332-0357. $.



Angeluna. The patio swarms with an artsy Chanel-and-Chardonnay crowd before and after events at the Bass Performance Hall across the street. The “one-world-on-a-plate” menu features designer pizzas, pastas, and spinach and mushroom salads corralled by delicate potato rings. Who cares if it’s more about style than substance? After all. the parent company is in Aspen. 215 E. 4th St.. Fort Worth. 817-334-0080.$$.



Benito’s. Like an old familiar friend, Benito’s appearance may be spruced up from time to time, but some things never change-like the food. The queso flameado. with or without chorizo, is flamed tableside and served with fresh pico de gallo and hot flour or com tortillas. Order it first. and then spend some time with the menu-everything on it is worth trying. 1450 W. Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth. 817-332-8633.$$.



Bistro Louise. This gem of a bistro offers takeout now, but the staff seems curiously challenged by the idea. The famed smoked duck and stuffed lamb loin travel well, but even delicate reheating of an appetizer of Brie roasted in pastry petals fails to restore it. Savored in the sunny bistro, the cuisine works Mediterranean magic. Enjoy it there as often as possible. 2900 S. Hulen St., Fort Worth. 817-922-9244. $$.

Cacharel. This easily tops Arlington’s dining scene, such as it is, with its French country décor and New French cuisine. The fixed-price menu ($34.50) is a great deal. A la carte menu also available. 2221 E. Lamar Blvd.. Ste. 910. Arlington. 817-640-9981.$$$.



Cattlemen’s Steak House. Fort Worth ate cattle before cattle was cool, and Cattlemen’s is still the quintessential stockyard steakhouse. There’s not much but beef accompanied by rolls, potatoes, and iceberg lettuce salad, but the atmosphere is genuine cowboy. 2458 N. Main St.. Fon Worth. 817-624-3945. $$-$$$.

D BEST Grape Escape. The gimmick here is education-Grape Escape is trying to do the same thing for wine that brew pubs did for beer. So you order “flights” of the grape of your choice, and (he waiter brings a four-glass tasting of say. chardonnay, from Sonoma, Napa. Australia, and New Zealand. Compare and contrast. The food is designed around the wine, so you can change direction mid-meal-start with white wine and suggested matches, finish with red wine and cheese. The selection of small plates-merguez sausages, paté, salads, stuffed potatoes, pizzettes-adds up to a full meal that’s lots of fun. 500 Commerce St., Fort Worth. 817-336-9463.$$.



Joe T. Garcia’s Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery.

Although not as fancy as its cousin around the comer, the chefs do an excellent job preparing all the old favorites from burritos to tamales. Breakfast is a work of art here. And on your way out, the bakery, in an alcove off the dining room, sells traditional Mexican breads, rolls, and sweet rolls. 2122 N. Main St.. Fort Worth. 817-626-5770.$$.



D BEST Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. The quintessential Fort Worth restaurant. Its location near the Stockyards can handle the crowds for whom the restaurant’s status hovers somewhere between “institution” and “nirvana.” Wail for a spot outside by the pool, and order the enchiladas. Joe doesn’t do credit cards or reservations, either. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fon Worth. 817-6264356. S$.



Kincaid’s. It’s organized chaos at lunch, but there isn’t a frown in the lime-green room. The burgers are worth the drive from Dallas, and so are the sides: fried okra, deviled eggs, and pimiento cheese-sluffed jalapenos. If you can manage, have homemade banana pudding for dessert. It’s been a while since we left a restaurant this satisfied for only $5. 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd.. Fort Worth. 817-732-2881.$.



Mi Cocina. If there’s a line, cool your heels with great margaritas. The menu features upscale dishes in addition to basic tacos and enchiladas- tacos habanas are stuffed with chicken and covered with ground chile and cilantro; Latin stir-fry fajitas provide a new option for vegetarians. 509 Main St., Fon Worth. 817-877-3600. $-$$.



D BEST Randall’s Gourmet Cheesecake Company. It s a wonderfully romantic, candle-lit French cafe serving delightful classic specialties. Beef tenderloin medallions served with rosemary-roasted shallots come with crunchy haricots verts and garlic mashed potatoes. But the pièce de résistance is a savory cheesecake, made of parmesan and feta cheese baked with basil pesto, asparagus, mushrooms, and kalamata olives. 907 Houston St., Fon Worth. 817-336-2253. $$.



Saint Emilion. Some are surprised to see this Fort Worth restaurant on the list of top 10 restaurants in the area. But the brick-walled. country French atmosphere is charming, and the food is mostly terrific. The wine list features many vintages from the Saint Emilion region, as you might expect. 3617 W. 7th St., Fort Worth. 817-727-2781.$$$.

Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab



e have two friends who migrate twice a year to the famous Joe’s Stone Crab in Miami to gorge on the crown jewel of crustaceans. That may seem odd to the average Joe, but until Truluck’s opened, aficionados of this sweet delicacy had no place in Dallas to go. So before they booked their next flight, we whisked them to Truluck’s in Addison for the Monday night all-you-can-eat fest Before our waiter could recite the evening specials (yes they do serve other quality seafood and steak dishes), my friends arrogantly assaulted the poor guy on the merits of each of the four varieties-medium, large, Jumbo, and colossal. Without blinking, our waiter delivered an Impressive dissertation on the taste of those harvested in Florida verses the quality of the shipments from Belize, and after more information than we needed, we ordered a platter of each and conducted our own taste test. Once the plates of pre-cracked claws arrived, forks flew across the table, and our friends struggled to decipher the best bite for the buck. In the end, they cancelled future travel plans and determined that when it comes to crab claws at Truluck’s, size doesn’t matter. 5001 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-503-3079; 2401 McKinney Ave. 214-220-2401. $$-$$$. (Both locations offer all-you-can-eat on Monday night)

COOKS WITH BOOKS

“Cowboy Cocktails”



Legend has it that a cowboy’s best frond is his horse. But local chef Grady Spears and co-author Brigit L. Binns contend they never met a cowpoke that wasn’t more devoted to a slug of whiskey. Each of Die drink recipes in their new hook, Cowboy Cocktails– including “Fishin’ with a Worm” and “Br Pepper Moo”-comes with the gentle reminder to “never drink unless you’re alone with somebody.”



EAT YOUR WORDS

DEMYSTIFYING THAI FOOD



GANG KARI-yellow curry, the mildest That curry

GANG KAEW WAN-green curry that is medium hot and has green chilies

GANG PET-red curry, similar to green but with red chilies

GANG MASSAMAN- rich but mild, with coconut potato and peanuts

PAD SI-EWE-noodles fried with meat in soy sauce

PENANG-dry, aromatic curry made with chilies. coriander. shrimp paste, limes, lemon-grass, cilantro, ginger, garlic, and shallots

PRIK PON-red chili pewder

TOM KHA GAI-hot-and-sour chicken soup with coconut milk



OFF THE PLATE

” If I ever get to the point where I’m content with what we’re doing in the kitchen, we’ll be out of business”



-City Cafe owner Marty Schma on replacing chef Bud Boswell with former AquaKnox chef Jason Gorman.

S I D E D I S H

Eat A Peach



After 20 years of searching stateside for the perfect Italian sorbet, Modo Mio owner/chef Rino Brigliadori has given up and gone straight to the source-Italy. His imported frozen confection of swirled fresh peaches sans cream or sugar Is so popular with the regulars he is often asked to sell it by the case.

Modo Mo, 18352 Dallas Pkwy., 972-671-6636, $$,

THOSE WINING WOMEN

SYBIL KIPRIOTIS & SUSAN KENDALL

Passionate pairings and elusive summer love



You don’t have to be Edna St. Vincent Millay to recall the poetic moment when “summer sang in me a little while, that in me sings no more.” We offer these heartfelt lines on vines and a few grape ideas for a season of red-hot romance and golden memories.



GEYSER PEAK RIESLING, California, 1999, $7. Tall and tan, young and lovelyno it’s not the girl from Ipanema, but it is the perfect companion for the beach. Enjoyable alone as an aperitif or paired with clams or roast chicken, share this fruit-forward Golden Girl chilled with a warm summer sunset and someone you love.



LOUIS MARTINI CABERNET SAUVIGNON, Napa, 1997, $9. “Martini…Louis Martini.” Those Wining Women will be shaken if this spicy, berry Big Red does not stir you-It’s a real steal. Serve with pro-sciutto-wrapped fresh figs as a starter and the rest of the night will take care of itself. What’s the “duh factor” on this one?



GEYSER PEAK SHIRAZ, 1997, $14.

Crimson and rich with cherry and herb flavors, this silky seductress is perfect with paté or Stilton. Try this California charmer with Caesar salad and a big ol’ hunk of grilled red meat. If it’s not your lucky night, it’s your own fault.

NEIGHBORHOOD FIND

Pavarotti’s



As I ushered my three nieces (all under 8) to the hostess stand, several tables of customers glanced up and shot me “the look.” You know-the look you get from passengers when you board a plane with a fussy Infant in your arms.

We knew beforehand that Pavarotti’s is one of the few places in North Dallas where parents can dash around the corner for a quick quiet meal. But, we had a minor family celebration and the noise level at the area kid-friendly spots led us to risk a scene here.

As we waited for a table, Jamie, the 5-year-old “pink freak”twirled around the twinkle-lit room and squealed with delight, “I love this place-it’s sooo pink” at the top of her lungs, causing an uneasy stir in the room. But as soon as we were seated, our savvy waitress nipped any potential problems in the bud by offering a round of Shirley Temples. The grownups politely opted for red wine, and thanks to our waitress, who treated the girls like the queens that they can be, we all enjoyed an event-free dinner.

We started with a tasty grilled portobello mushroom spiked with garlic and olive oil and a basket of fresh hot bread topped with melted mozzarella cheese. Without prompting, the kitchen split one order of fettuccine alfredo ($7.95) into three small bowls for the kids-cheaper than three Happy Meals, and the twinkle lights were free.

The baked lasagna was a delightful casserole layered with noodles, meat and cheese, but the veal Florentine was undercooked and the red wine sauce hadn’t been simmered long enough to reduce the acidity of the wine. But the linguine Pavarotti loaded with shrimp and chicken sautéed in a garlic white wine sauce gave us plenty of reason to return.

And so do the prices-all entrées come with a side of pasta and a salad and main dishes top out at $13,95. We can’t say that they serve the best Italian food in town, but the atmosphere and the attitude make Pavarotti’s an easy escape with or without the family. 6757 Arapaho Rd. 972-991-2828. $$. -N.N.