NEWCOMERS
NEW CANTINA LAREDO
There is no excuse for a lousy mar-garita at a Mexican restaurant in Dallas, Texas. But the casa margarita (S4.95)
at Cantina Laredo tasted like watered-down Gatorade, the house top shelf margarita ($5.95) tasted like sweetened-up
Koolaid, and the top shelf Patron Silver margarita ($6.95) tasted like Renuzit. Maybe the bar doesn’t need to switch
out fancy tequilas; they just need to try a new mix. Or, hey, how about a margarita made with real lime juice?
Cantina Laredo has been around a long time-the location in Addison was an enchilada destination for years, and the
Walnut Hill location offered a cure that Presbyterian Hospital across the street couldn’t compete with. But the new
restaurant in Preston Royal is different because it’s going to be the first of many just like it. This is the
prototype for all the new El Chico’s, now that they’re owned by Gene Street. There’s only one El Chico left in
Dallas, and Street says there won’t be any more that aren’t Cantina Laredos.
On our first visit to Preston Royal’s new Cantina, the service was exceptionally cooperative and attentive-though
that could have been because Gene and Leisa Street were dining a table away- and the food was good. Chicken tacos
cascabel enfolded hot peppered, orange-scented, sauced, stewed chicken in a soft, fresh tortilla. Pork carnitas
featured pork slow-cooked to shreds and wrapped in a tortilla with fresh grilled vegetables and spicy rice. But the
doppelganger Tex-Mex side of the menu was terrible. Undercooked, stuffed jalapenos were so tough you couldn’t bite
through them, and the cheese wasn’t melted yet. We suspect the freezer. Tacos al pastor were corn tortillas with an
apparently pre-owned pork filling.
A comparison meal at the old location revealed a major slip from its former quality-here the carnitas had the same
reheated-tasting filling (maybe left over from the Preston Royal store?), and the tortilla itself had been reheated
to leather.
The rule is, stick to Mexican food at Cantina and you’ll probably be happy. The neighborhood has certainly embraced
the place-there’s a valet line and beepers to help the traffic flow, practically unheard-of for a mid-price Mexican
joint. Just remember, every chain is only as good as its latest link. When you see the El Chico sign, it’s not
certain yet what you’ll get. 250 Preston Royal Center, 214-265-1610. $$.
-Mary Brown Malouf
TACO DINER (BY M CROWD)
There’s a serious dissonance between what the new Taco Diner (the latest venture of the M Crowd, owner of Mi Cocina,
Mainstream, and Mercury, so far) sounds like, looks like, and is like. The name sounds slightly retro- maybe, you
think, there’s going to be a kind of ’40s Mexican diner look going on here, with all that kitschy stuff that’s so
collectible now (salt and pepper shakers shaped like serape-wrapped kids sleeping under sombreros). The stark
minimalist interior, by Zero-Three Design, is good-looking in the kind of scrubbed-down, antiseptic style that makes
you think you’re going to be served sushi. There are lavender plastic chairs and glaring western windows; everything
is molded or extruded. But the food is handmade, earthy, so simple it’s almost primitive. The tacos at the Diner are
real Mexican soft tacos, not drive-through, crunchy, greasy Tex-Mex mutations.
It is a stripped-down approach to Mexican food-you fill out your own order from a sushi-like list-three kinds each
of pork, beef, chicken, and fish tacos, plus a few extras, like nachos and sincronizadas. You can have a margari-ta,
too, in a short, square glass that’s half the size of most margaritas, but this is one of those M Crowd gimmicks-
because it’s a family restaurant, there’s no liquor on the menu, but we didn’t see a table that wasn’t furnished
with a mar-garita. It’s a good way to teach your kids hypocrisy, if nothing else.
Five plastic pitchers of different salsas with an inch in each one made it difficult to dip with a chip, but the
spoons indicated you were supposed to use this to sauce your tacos, not do the Tex-Mex prestuffing ritual. Tacos
come standard order (three) or traditional (five) to a plate. (And they do need salsa.) This is Mexican food best
eaten Chinese-style, ordering a lot of stuff and then passing what you don’t like to the next person.
The corn tortillas are the star here; they’re like that rare dress that looks good on everyone. No matter what you
wrap these soft, fresh tortillas around, the result is good-chicken with cojita cheese, (why don’t we know more
about Mexican cheeses?-this one was soft and white, mild but langy), grilled pork, and meaty mushrooms are all
complemented by the fragrant masa tortillas. Stewed fish was bathed in a sweet tomato-pepper sauce that just clung
and moistened but didn’t drip out the end of the roll-your-own. Beef was the least satisfying meat we tried: It
seemed to have been held a little long under the lamps, a clue to the speed at which the kitchen wants to move.
Which indicates, of course, that Taco Diner is going to be a chain, but then, we wouldn’t mind one of these down the
street. Maybe they could put in a drive-through window. 4011 Villanova, 214-696-4944. $.
-M.B.M.
PUFF’S THE HICKORY GRILL
You could argue that Dallas doesn’t need another burger joint, but you wouldn’t win if you were talking to me. There
are, of course, burgers on every corner and on most menus, but Americans have become so jaded on the subject,
they’ve allowed their standard for the national sandwich to slip so low that we always need another burger joint.
Because just maybe, this time, it will be a good burger joint.
So the news that John Ahern, a beer and burger veteran, was opening a simple place in Preston Center (the new dining
mecca of Dallas) was welcome to me. Ahern founded Cardinal Puff’s on Greenville, Dallas’ quintessential
post-collegiate hangout for ex-Austinites, and it seemed to me that he’d be just the guy to put the proper
priorities in place when assembling a good burger.
The place itself is nothing but a redone Zuzu’s (we’ll be seeing lots of alternative uses for those ex-Zuzu’s) with
a general atmosphere of white laminate. Servers on our visits tended to be the ’90s version of the ’50s soda jerk-
baggy-jeaned teens with good intentions and no grace. But the burgers, built from half a pound of chuck, grilled and
smoked over hickory, on a special, Massimo-baked bun, are good and the options are, too: cheese, bacon-mushroom, and
a welcome revival of the old Goff’s hickory-sauced sandwich, livened up with jalapenos. I would prefer toasted buns,
especially with bread this hefty, but that’s a small kvetch compared to the overall quality of the sandwich and the
sides. The shoestring potatoes are a fresh-fried version of the ones that come in a can. Onion rings are cut thin
enough, battered lightly, and fried till you can’t tell the onion from the crust.
Puff’s has made some concessions to modern, if misguided, tastes. Yes, there’s a smoked chicken- wich for those who
have totally converted to skinless, boneless (tasteless) chicken breasts as a sub for the beef patty. There’s even a
portobello mushroom-wich, though I can’t really imagine one of these with one of Puff’s milkshakes or a frozen
margarita. 6112 Luther Lane, Preston Center, 214-361-6191.$.
-M.B.M.
BARBECUE
Baker’s Ribs. Nothing fancy about this place. Load up your tray with piles of sliced beef. pork, turkey,
chicken, cayenne-seasoned St. Louis-cut ribs, and the usual side dishes: potato salad, cole slaw, and beans. We
still prefer the Commerce Street location. 2724 Commerce St.. 214-748-5433; 4844 Greenville Ave., 214-373-0082; 488
W. 1-30 at Belt Line Road. Garland, 972-226-7447. $.
Peggy Sue Barbecue. This ’50s-style joint in Snider Plaza is serving some of the best BBQ in town. Terrific
appetizers include Texas Torpedoes-cream cheese-filled fried jalapenos. Baby back ribs, chicken. Polish kielbasa
sausage, and brisket are smoked to perfection. Vegetables, usually second-class in the macho world of meat, go
first-class here. 6600 Snider Plaza, 214-987-9188. $.
Sammy’s Barbecue. Barbecue for the banking crowd at bankers’ hours. Everyday at lunch. Sammy’s is full of
white-collar types, ties thrown over their shoulders, chowing on great red-stripe brisket, ribs, and homemade
Mom-style pie. No, really–Sammy’s is a family-run enterprise, and all the Pritchards pitch in. 2126 Leonard St.,
214-880-9064. $.
D BEST Sonny Bryan’s. For 40 years. Sonny Bryan’s meat) ribs, moisi brisket, and classic barbecue sauce have
been the standard by which all other Dallas barbecue is judged. The West End and St. Paul locations maintain die
original tastes in fancier settings, but for the classic barbecue experience, return to the original Inwood Road
joint, sit on die hood of your car, and gnaw on tenderly smoked ribs and chopped beef. 2202 Inwood Rd.,
214-357-7120; 302 N. Market St.. 214-744-1610; 325 N. St. Paul St. (in the tunnel). 214-979-0102; 4701 Frankford
Rd., 972-447-0102; Macy’s, 3rd level, Galleria. 972-851-5131.1
Tabbouleh To GoCafe Izmir foreshadowed the current craze for Middle Eastern food; now It’s Jumping on the takeout
trend, too. Actually, it has combined them both in one tiny shop down the street from the restaurant. You can snack,
day or night, on couscous salad with feta and olives, made to order gyro, pastrami, Russian chicken salad
sandwiches, pita, and hummus (the guacamole of the ’90s). Drop in for Turkish coffee when Starbucks palls. Plus,
there’s a little line of exotic groceries- this is the place to go if you need rose water at 9 p.m.Izmir Market and
Dell, 3607 Greenville Ave., 214-824-8484BAKERY/SANDWICHES
Corner Bakery. Dallas has a number of excellent bakeries now, but the Comer Bakery holds ils own. Country
loaves are crusty, and the sweet stuff-Russian coffee cake, sticky buns, and brownies-are all excellent. But the
Bakery has a cafe side, serving pizza (with die deep-dish, 2-inch sides holding a flat filling), tomato-sauced
pasta, and sandwiches. 2401 Preston Rd.. Piano. 972-398-1955.$.
La Spiga. You may have to track down La Spiga. tucked away in a warehouse area, but it’s worth it-these
rustic, crusty loaves of preservative-free bread are served at many of the best restaurants in town. But there’s
plenty more being dished up here, including homemade soup, pani-ni, quiches, pizza-style focaccia, and Caesar
salads. 4203 Lindberg Dr., Addison, 972-934-8730. $.
Street’s Famous Sandwiches. We are impressed by the creative combos of meats, cheeses, and vegetables, and
“Gene’s Favorite” is ours, too-grilled chicken and onions with melted provolone and spicy Dijon. Sides include a
cheese tortellini salad with walnuts, Chinese sesame noodles, potato salad, and coleslaw. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave.,
214-526-2505. $.
BREW PUBS
Copper Tank Brewing Company. The beer may be microbrewed, but the setting is macro. This huge pub–an Austin
import-functions as a sports bar, watering hole, and restaurant. While the beer wins awards, the food also deserves
some attention, too. Our favorite pretzel replacement: onion rings with a zesty apple-horseradish dipping sauce.
2600 Main St., 214-744-2739. $.
Routh Street Brewery and Grill. Although the food has slipped a little, the hand-crafted brew remains some of
the finest in Dallas, and an elegant hill country lodge motif with soft lighting makes it a sexy spot for a beer
joint. Shy away from the wienerschnitzel, though; roasted pork tenderloin fares better. 3011 Routh St., 214*
922-8835. $$.
Yegua Creek Brewing Go. This home-grown brew pub continues to brew stellar suds, but its menu strays from the
burger/pizza path into less-traveled Southwest byways with mixed success. 2920 N. Henderson Ave., 214-824-BREW.
$$.
BURGERS
Snuffer’s. The burgers and frosty brew are a sensory way-back machine for those who thought the university
years were the prime of their life. They probably were, if you continue to eat things like Snuffer’s cheese fries (a
basket of deep-fried strips, covered in gloriously greasy cheese), because you can’t last long if you eat this way
often. 3526 Greenville Ave.. 214-826-6850; 14910 Midway Rd., Addison. 972-991-8811.$.
Stoneleigh P. Everyone smuggles in ketchup because the place proudly and oddly refuses to serve it. But even
the contraband ketchup can’t help the boring, meatless garden burger, and the homemade potato chips are not as good
as Zapp’s out of the bag. The best thing about the Stoneleigh’s rancho deluxe burger, served on an equally crumbly
“rustica” bun, was the chipotle mayonnaise. Maybe that explains the condiment ban. 2926 Maple Ave.,
214-871-2346.$.
Texas Hamburgers. This Texas kitsch joint is filled with stuffed armadillos. Texas flags, cowboy memorabilia,
good ol’ boys, and Armani-clad Design Center sophisticates. Besides great half- and third-pound burgers
accompanied by fresh fixings, this place serves some great meatloaf with a tasty tomate sauce laden with celery,
onions, and peppers. 1616 Market Center Blvd., 214-747-2222. $.
CAJUN/CREOLE
Crescent City Cafe. Crescent City still dishes out solid New Orleans chow in authentic French Quarter
surroundings. Though the fried food can be spotty, the gumbo’s rich and the po’ boys are consistently good. 2615
Commerce St., 214-745-1900. $.
Margate’s. Cafe Margaux owner Kay Agnew has reopened yet again, in a smaller space wearing a suitably shorter name
and with a menu that includes lunch on weekdays and dinner on Thursday only. Shrimp and sausage gumbo is the real
thing, and cornmeal-crusted oysters are crisp-skinned delights. 2404 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-740-1985. $$.
CHINESE
Arc-En-Ciel. The kitchen employs separate cooks for the Chinese and Vietnamese fare, but everyone really goes
there to eat Vietnamese. Our last meal we ordered in a leisurely way, a few dishes at a lime-pristine Imperial
rolls: shrimp pounded and molded on sugarcane; grilled pork to roll in rice paper with rice noodles, cilantro, mint,
lettuce, and sprouts-each dish delightful, fresh, excellent. 3555 W. Walnut St., Garland, 972-272-2188.
Cafe Panda. The personnel here roll out the red carpet, and the mostly excellent food reflects a meticulous
attention to detail, performing some service rituals as complex as the cuisine. Start with quail curl and watch as a
team of servers performs a near-ballet in bringing it to your table. And finish with tableside French-pressed
coffee. 7979 Inwood Rd., Ste. 121. 214-902-9500.$-$$.
D REVISITS Cathy’s Pacific. Despite demise of low-fat food as a successful concept (witness the recent
closings of NorthSoulh and Eureka), chef/nutritionist Cathy Liu continues to succeed in combining authentic Chinese,
Thai, and Vietnamese techniques with healthy twists. Our only complaint was that some Vietnamese and Thai dishes
tasted Chinese. But at least they don’t taste healthy-on our recent visit, we couldn’t distinguish the high-calorie
and low-calorie dishes. In fact, the best dish we tried was the Szechuan Shrimp: fresh shrimp stir-fried with corn,
sweet peppers, and onions and lightly coated in a black bean sauce. Each serving only set us back 240 calories and
10 grams of fat-so of course we ate two helpings. Now that’s healthy eating. The dishes we ordered “extra hot” were
not, so if you like your food scorching, ask the kitchen to crank it up. 5950-A Royal Lane at Preston, 214-739-3378.
$$
May Dragon. An inscrutable strip center location belies one of the city’s best Chinese restaurants. Just stay
away from the neon sweet and sour stuff, and you’ll be happy. Try a duck instead. 4848 Belt Line Rd., Addison,
972-392-9998. $$.
D REVISITS Royal China. Royal China seems sadly worn, right down to the dated pictures of celebrities in the
foyer. Evidently there haven’t been any stars here since the late ’70s, when this place was a star. Royal China
serves the same neighborhood clientele that has been faithfully eating here since Buck Kao and his family opened the
place in 1974. Appetizers are still in peak performance-our meal began with a wonderful hot and sour soup and
perfectly steamed pan-fried pork dumpling served with a vinegary soy sauce. But the General’s chicken looked and
tasted like Chicken McNuggets in a sweet orange sauce, and the moo shu pork tasted like a Taco Bell Gordita-the
pancakes were thick and chewy, and what pork you could find in the filling was obscured by too much tasteless
cabbage. 201 Preston Royal Center, 214-361-1771,$$.
Szechuan Pavilion. One of the top Chinese restaurants in a city with far loo few to choose from. Service here
is smooth and the usual Szechuan specialties are good. Pol stickers filled with juicy pork and a whole crispy fish
are worth wailing for. 8409 Preston Rd., 214-368-4303, $$.
Taiwan Restaurant One of the big-time Chinese restaurants in Dallas, Taiwan only stumbles when it’s too sure
of itself. The upstairs dining rooms overlook a parking lot, so focus on the tableside view, instead-plates are
garnished with surreally carved vegetables. Lunch specials are a steal. 4980 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 200, Addison,
972-387-2333. $-$$.
Uncle Chow. The menu might be small, but the flavor’s all there, especially if you start with the pan-fried
chicken dumplings, jam-packed with tender white meat. 19021 Midway Rd.. 972-306-CHOW. $.
Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. Not much has changed here over the last 15 years. Bow-tie clad waiters still formally dish
out classic hot Hunan specialties tableside. Past favorites still shine: Crispy Beef with broccoli sizzling in spicy
orange sauce and Uncle Tai’s Chicken flamed with jalapenos lightly coated with black bean sauce served on a bed of
slightly wilted watercress. In the Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy. at LBJ. 972-934-9998. $$
COFFEEHOUSES
Cafe Society. Dallas’ most authentic coffeehouse not only roasts its own beans but offers a comfortable but
hip environment for serious discussion, flirtation, hanging out, listening to music, and feeling generally
plugged-in and with it. 209 Henry St.. 214-745-1964. $.
Cosmic Cup. The counterculture’s barely made a dent in the Dallas psyche, a fact that makes Cosmic Cup almost
a tourist attraction here. In other cities, there are whole neighborhoods lined with places like this. Most of the
food is India-inspired, which makes vegetarian an easy philosophy-samosas. dal. curry. Good. and good for the soul.
2912 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-521-6157.$.
DELI
Gilbert’s. All you Yankees pining for the comforts of the Carnegie Deli, stop whining. The Gilbert family
enters their 11th year of dishing out potato knishes, stuffed derma, and kasha varnishkas as good as any in the Big
Apple. They also have a decent plate of spaghetti and meatballs for the shiksa in your group. 11661 Preston Rd..
214-373-3333. $.
EASTERN EUROPEAN
Athénée Cafe. Dallas” only Rumanian restaurant–are you surprised? Stuffed mountain cabbage is a fabulous
signature dish-meatball-size beef rolls oven-roasted in delicate cabbage leaves with a red wine sauce, just like
grandma in Transylvania used to make. Other highlights: Rumanian sausage and veal chop. The wine list is adéquate.
5365 Spring Valley Rd.. Ste. 150. 972-239-8060. $$.
ECLECTIC
D BEST Bistro*. Peripatetic chef Avnei Samuel’s is his
yet. and better yet. Bistro A looks like it’s going to be around awhile. Casually chic, it’s made sleepy Snider
Plaza a destination, drawing well-heeled diners in for stylish fare that’s beautifully presented. Dishes with Middle
Eastern influences are especially good, but the chef does equally well with simple steak fries. and
casserole-roasted chicken could be the best bird in town.
The Brick Room. Tables on tiers raked amphiteater-style give live jazz lovers a fine view of the bandstand in
this suave food-and-jazz emporium that’s brought a new night-life dimension to Lowest Skillman. Steaks and seafood
are main menu draws; pleasant service and a well-tuned bar keep the all-aged faithful happy between sets. 1925
Skillman St., 214-823-2725. $$
Deep Ellum Cafe. The first legitimate restaurant in Deep Ellum has a lot of competition now, and though this
is still one of the most pleasant places to be in downtown, sometimes the food is not so pleasant. The kitchen seems
bored with the standards like chicken and dill dumplings and Vietnamese chicken salad; specials are a better bet.
Sit outside if you can. 2704 Elm St., 214-741-9012.$-$$.
Dream Cafe. This Quadrangle eatery’s pastoral-in-city setting seems particularly appropriate for the Dream
Cafe’s menu, though there are those who insist that “dream” refers to the often seemingly somnolent service. The
famed breakfast menu remains an intriguing blend; solid egg dishes to entice the power-breakfast crowd and granola
for those who want to start the day on a more spiritual, healthful note. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St.,
214-954-0486. $$.
8.0 Restaurant and Bar. This hip joint is still hopping with pretty people sipping blue mar-garitas and noshing
upscale bar food like wick, 8-ounce burgers and chicken nachos. Lines are out the door at lunch and cocktail hour in
the summer, and the patio is swarming with guys and girls cruising for girls and guys. Blaring music makes table
conversation nearly impossible, but mural-covered walls painted by local artists make it a funky place to sit back
and watch the show. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., 214-979-0880. $-$$.
Flrehouse. Chef Bruno Mello has made a three-ring circus by juggling his time in die Firehouse kitchen with
time at his downtown restaurant. Champagne. As a result, the food here has slipped. The Sicilian Flrehouse chicken
is a fire-eaters dream when it’s not drowning in habanero sauce. Great appetizers include a whole roasted onion
filled with spicy garlic and eggplant dip. 1928 Greenville Ave.. 214-826-2468. $$-$$$.
D BEST The Crape. The secret in thai Dallas’ oldest and best wine bar is really one of its oldest and best
restaurants- dim and atmospheric, with a blackboard menu that remains interesting and enticing (no matter how often
the chef changes), and the tiniest, most romantic bar in town. 2808 Greenville Ave., 214-828-1981. $$.
D BEST The Green Room, This ’90s continues to dish oui some of me most inventive cuisine to be found between
New York and L.A. The menu is eclectically uptown, and the decor is strictly downtown rock V roll. The contrast
between them is cool. At $34, the fixed-price, four-course, “Feed Me” menu is the best deal in town. 2715 Elm St.,
214-748-ROOM. $$.
Mark’s on Henderson. Chef-owner Mark Jenson is an avowed one-man show in his intimate 13 table bistro. Lately
we have found his food starving for attention. But when he’s in the kitchen and delegates the other restaurant
responsibilities to his pleasant staff, the eclectic entrees that change daily-like sea bass and risotto-always
shine. Browse the cellar and choose a bottle, or sample international wines by the glass. 2926 Henderson Ave.,
214-841-0900. $$.
Sipango. The Cal-Ital menu offers selections various enough to allow for grazing as well as course-by-course dining
at this currently cool cafe-cum-nightspot. Service is overly amiable. with some liming lapses. Once the too-loud
cocktail pianist makes way for a combo, conversation is possible and people-watching is its own entertainment. 4513
Travis St., 214-522-2411.$$.
St. Pete’s Dancing Marlin. The marlin doesn’t mean seafood, it’s just a clue that the owner likes to fish.
The only seafood here is the dancing tuna sandwich; mostly, the food is simply designed to go with your beer. Beware
the Diablo Tempestuous, pasta doused in fiery jalapeno-tomato sauce. It’s so hot it comes with a chaser of chocolate
milk. 2730 Commerce St., 214-698-1511. $.
D BEST Tarantino’s. The overall ambi-ence-a dark. New York cafe-shaped space dominated by a long bar-is best
at night, when the slight scruffiness is hidden by dim light and the place looks avant instead of under-financed.
The food goes back to the basics of Italian and Spanish cuisine, served tapas-style. The take on traditional osso
buco. based on a rich, gamy lamb shank instead of veal, is food you lust after. 3611 Parry Ave., 214-821-2224.
Dinner only. $$.
FRENCH/CONTINENTAL
D BEST Barclays. Don’t come to Barclays expecting to find a pint of bitters and bangers and mash. This is
upper-crust English fare with a European twist. Potato ravioli stuffed with Stilton cheese and wild mushrooms is of
regal status. And if you’re looking for that perfect place to “pop” the question or celebrate something special,
look no further-this place is a gem. 2917 Fairmount St.. 214-855-0700. $$-$$$.
Chez Gerard, Which is more to be celebrated. French thrift or French style? Skin-thin petals of veal liver,
sautéed with onions and grapes in port wine sauce, become the gourmand’s liver and onions-or is it the peasant’s
foie gras? Whatever. 4444 McKinney Ave.. 214-522-6865.$$-$$$.
Clair De Lune. Tucked behind some trees in the corner of a small strip of shops in Preston Royal, this cozy
French country restaurant delights with delicious food and impeccable service. A classic house-made pork paté is
served with diced onion, French cornichons, and mustard. Poitrine de canard, a splendidly moist duck breast, is
served with a delicate port wine sauce. 5934 Royal Ln. at Preston Road, 214-987-2028. $$.
French Room. This is the prettiest dining room in Dallas. The rococo-style, cherub-flown ceiling,
Versailles-length drapes, and candlelight make il the kind of place that doesn’t mesh with the modern world. It’s
only natural to expect perfect food that matches the fairy-tale room. Sweetbread schnitzel is perfect, placed on a
bed of asparagus ragout. Lamb ribeye is precisely matched with rosemary goat cheese polenta and tomato confit with
basil, combining every Mediterranean high note in a single dish. Hotel Adolphus, 1321 Commerce St,, 214-742-8200.
$$$.
Jennivine. Jennivine’s slightly anachronistic atmosphere, a quaint old house stranded in the massive new
Uptown apartments, still delivers one of Dallas’ most unexpected dining experiences: fine food in fine surroundings
at a fair price. Appetizers and entrées alike are first-rate. If you’re not up for one of the excellent meals,
enjoy a glass of wine and a sampling of cheese or one of their many patés. 3605 McKinney Ave., 214-528-6010. $$.
D BEST L’Ancestral. Lei L’Ancestral remind you of traditional delights: The civilized dining room is softly
lit. tables are draped in starchy white, and the menu is stubbornly, traditionally French. Begin your meal with a
bowl of onion soup, about as recherché as you could get, but some ideas need no improvement. The onion tart is just
as subtly good. Lamb is cooked perfectly medium rare, and steak au poivre comes with the the best, yes. French fries
in town. 4534 Travis St., 214-528-1081. $$-$$$.
La Mirabelle. Thoroughly retro not only in its ambience, which stresses traditional comfort. and in its food,
which is precisely and personally prepared French, but also in ils service, which actually claims to coddle the
customer. Enjoy reading the menu, but don’t order a thing until you hear the specials of the day. That’s where the
treasures are. 17610 Midway Rd.. 972-733-0202. $$-$$$.
Lavendou. Despite the fact that our waiter didn’t know (he différence between smooth and coarse pale, someone in
the kitchen cooks with a French accent. Delicious French specialties come garnished a la Francaise within an inch of
their life: For instance, a tender tilapia came tucked into a tutu-like frill of purple kale, decorated with two
swishes and a swirl of orange red-pepper sauce. 19009 Preston Rd., 972-248-1911. $$-$$$.
D BEST The Pyramid Boom. That overused word, opulence, must bo hauled out again-the Fairmont Hotel’s flagship
restaurant demands il. Here is service and ambience that beggar less extravagant description. The food, too,
deserves superlatives. You can hardly ask for more cosseting at any price than that provided by this serenely
cosmopolitan restaurant. Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N. Akard St., 214-720-5249.$$$.
St. Hartin’s. Rich paneling, soft-lit paintings, and touches of muted gold update the famous romantic
setting; live music shapes the proper evening mood; and the food delivers sophisticated fulfillment. The
by-the-glass wine selection is broad, and service strikes the correct balance between attention and discretion. 3020
Greenville Ave.. 214-826-0940. $$.
Watel’s. Sure, you’ll find weird organ meats like calves’ brains doctored with capers and veal kidneys
louchai with mushrooms to satisfy the strand of old-world gastronomic esoteri-ca that quivers in your palate. But
you’ll also find exquisite contrasts like delicate rare tuna coated with crunchy peppercorns and lightly structured
grilled shrimp with red pepper coulis-all served in a crisp, clean space. 2719 McKinney Ave., 214-720-0323. $$.
GOURMET TO GO
Bon Vivant Market Longtime Dallas chef Dan O’Leary is the food mind behind this all-purpose market. Bon Vivant has
plenty of room to navigate a basket around the central island filled with prepared meals (veal meat-loaf, lasagna),
past the bakery (crusty Euro-country loaves), to the grill area (juicy chicken skewers) and sandwich bar. Plus,
there’s a real wine department and tables for eating in. 1801 Preston Rd., Piano, 972-818-1177. $-$$.
City Harvest. This neighborhood favorite is open every day and-even on weekdays- serves real morning food.
Downtowners take note: Oak Cliff is easy for lunch (buy a bag of Zapp’s chips and a triple chocolate chunk cookie to
go with the pesto chicken salad deluxe sandwich), and you can pick up dinner to go while you eat. 939 N. Edgefield
Ave.. 214-943-2650.$-$$.
Eatzi’s. Eatzi’s definitely lives up to its circus hype. Hear the strains of opera and waltz through the
crowds collecting the already cooked makings of a gourmet dinner-down to the imported beer, fresh bread, and
flowers. Or choose salads or sandwiches made to order. Checkout fines are infamously long. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave.,
214-526-1515. $-$$,
Izmir Market and Deli. Dallas’ new fascination with Middle Eastern food means there have been long lines al
Cafe Izmir since it opened. You can avoid those crowds now by ordering in from the Izmir to go. just down Greenville
from the original cafe. Gyros, tenderloin. mozzarella, grilled vegetable, and chicken sandwiches, pita, hummus,
couscous, and eggplant dip are all available for pick-up or phone-in orders. 3607 Greenville, 214-824-8484. $-$$.
Marty’s Cafe TuGogh. Marty’s latest version of its wine bar has changed everything but the name. And the food-there
was never a problem with that. At night, when the blond, light-tilled Cafe TuGogh features full table service, it’s
on its way to becoming one of the best little bistros in town. 3316 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-526-4070. $-$$.
GREEK
Kostas Cafe. The food is simply Greek and simply good. Appetizer do’s: saganaki and dolmas (musts, really). Entrée
don’t: souvlaki (tough and chewy). 4914 Greenville Ave., 214-987-3225. $$.
D BEST Ziziki’s. You can hardly gel prime-time table at this contemporary Greek cafe, and they don’t lake
reservations, except for large parties. But the herbed lamb souvlaki. folded in thick warm pita and sauced with tart
yogurt, is worth a wait. Ziziki’s menu has featured the same idiosyncratic version of Mediterranean food since it
opened-it’s a good thing when some things don’t change. 4514 Travis St.. Ste. 122,214-521-2233.$$.
HOME COOKING
Casa Linda Cafeteria. The hairnet is alive in Casa Linda, behind the virtually endless counter at this culinary heir
to the Highland Park Cafeteria. We are always amazed at the quantity of food selections here-a dozen salads, 30
entrées (even though too many of them are geriatrically under-seasoned), 20 sides, 10 types of bread, a dozen
desserts. There’s a logo section full of salads, soups, etc. 300 Casa Linda Plaza; 214-324-5000. $.
Celebration. Bring your appetite to this longtime mecca for Dallas home-cooking purists. Entrees run the
gamut from broiled fresh fish to pot roast to fried chicken, all accompanied by an endless supply of vegetables.
Don’t worry if your entrée seems small-you can reorder as often as you wish. 4503 W. Lovers Ln.. 214-351 -5681.
$.
DC’s Cafe. You’ve been in powder rooms bigger than this super-clean little place, but you’ve had home cooking
this fine only in your dreams of classic soul-food plate lunches at penny-ante prices. Pork chops, meatloaf. catfish
et al come with three sides; business is about half-and-half eat-in and takeout, and we’ve never seen the room empty
of patrons. 8224 Park Ln.. 214-363-4348. $.
INDIAN
D BEST Bombay Cricket Club. Lunch buffets are an Indian restaurant tradition, and Bombay Cricket Club’s
lineup is excellent. A pretty setting, unfailingly polite service, and excellent food make this one of the top
Indian restaurants in town. The quality is steady at lunch, which for some restaurants seems to be a rime not to try
very hard. 2508 Maple Ave,, 214-871-1333. $-$$.
India Palace. Delicate spices imbue truly fine Indian cuisine. And. similar to a fine perfume, too much is an
assault on the senses, too little and there’s no magic. India Palace has kept the proper balance for nearly a decade
and shows no signs of slowing down. 12817 Preston Rd.. Ste. 105. 972-392-0190. $-$$.
ITALIAN
D REVISITS Alfredo Trattoria. We over-heard une of the jet-setting foursome seated next to us exclaim. “I
haven’t tasted anything this yummy since our trip to Portofino!” Despite loyal customers who drive across town to
eat here and lots of regulars who rave about the tortellini with ham and cream sauce, the meal we were served on our
recent visit wouldn’t inspire our loyalty. We wouldn’t drive across the street for the strings of rubbery calamari
washed with a watery marinara sauce that started our meal. Fettucine alia Franco, which our waiter suggested, was
thick, chewy pasta covered in another tasteless tomato sauce and was further depressed by thin slices of ordinary
Italian sausage. Surprisingly, a special of soft shell crab and scampi was superb. The whole meal was served in a
pink and blue flowery surrounding that reminded us more of Baby Gap than an Italian restaurant and certainly didn’t
smack of Portofino. 5404 Lemmon Avenue. 214-526-3331. $$
Angelo’s Italian Grill. When you think of classic Italian favorites, what triggers your Pavlovian response?
Lasagna? Spaghetti? Scampi? Chicken parmesan? Pizza? This homey place has it all. Each meal comes with a Caesar
salad and out-of-the-oven garlic rolls. The wine list is extensive, even by the glass. 6341 La Vista Dr.,
214-823-5566. $.
Campisi’s Egyptian. It’s dark, outdated, and frankly, a dump. The food is predictable and mostly pedestrian,
except the famous pizza. But all an institution has to do in order to succeed is endure. Dallas loves Campisi’s and
has for decades. Cash or check only. 5610 E. Mockingbird Ln., 214-827-0355. $.
Ialto’s. The menu is priced per portion and per “la familia.” And it’s thoroughly Italian in that a “la
familia” platter is plenty for a family, including parents, several children, grandparents. Vitello Pugliese, for
example, is thickly breaded slices of veal, smothered in tomato sauce allegedly enriched with goat cheese and loaded
with purple kalamata olives. 250 Spanish Village, 972-866-0888. $$.
Isola Gozo. The parking lot just doesn’t help the ambience. But the best you could hope for from a restaurant
in NorthPark is some retail compatibility. Thin-crusted pizza is always the star-a perfectly proportioned layering
of bread and topping, just held together with cheese. The fare at Isola Gozo is sophisticated and good and deserves
a better setting. The Market, NorthPark Center, Park Lane at Central Expressway, 214-691-0488. $$.
La Dolce Vita. Lakewood’s favorite wood-burning oven is as comfortable a place for pizza and wine as it is
for pastry and coffee. The high-ceilinged room with tall windows is a good place to linger if the crowds don’t push
you out. Service is unpretentious and friendly; pizzas and pastas are good but not weird. 1924 Abrams Pkwy..
214-821-2608. $-$$.
D BEST Mi Piacl. At all nines, these hipper-than-hip rooms are filled with people who took like they just
stepped off the fashion pages. The menu focuses on classic Tuscan cuisine, with homemade pasta, made-to-order
risotto, and superb breads. You’ll always see waiters expertly deboning the lender Dover sole for savvy diners. Our
only complaint: The noise level can get pretty high. 14854 Montfort Dr., 972-934-8424. $$.
D BEST Modo Mio. Here is a “labor of love” restaurant that has overcome the obstacle of doing business in an
ugly strip mall by serving some of the best Italian food in town. Chef/owner Rino Erigliadori turns out deliciously
plump gnocchi lightly coated in tomato sauce, and his simple seafood specials are always perfectly prepared. 18352
Dallas Pkwy.. Ste. 112, 972-671-MODO. $$.
Pomodoro. The white-tiled walls and floors and odd faucet-like lighting of this trendy dining spot give this
Cedar Springs mainstay showerlike appeal. But this doesn’t take away from the charm of the little garlic trees that
sit in the windows or the fresh flowers that grace each table. As for the food, Pomodoro deserves applause for
consistent innovation. 2520 Cedar Springs Rd.. 214-871-1924.5$.
Ruggeri’s. It could be that success at its newer Addison spinoff has cost the Uptown original its reputation
for dependably fine Italian dining. The formerly flawless food has been less consistent lately: The veal chop was
huge and tender, but zabaglione was not too much more than froth. The crowd is festive as always. 2911 Routh St.
214-871-7377; 5348 Belt Line Rd. 972-726-9555, $$-$$$.
Terilli’s. A Lower Greenville fixture. Terilli’s packs in a semi-sophisticated crowd for such-as-it-is jazz
and an eclectic menu featuring the signature item with the silly name: “Italcho’s” (crisp chips of pizza dough
topped with moz-zarella and a choice of toppings). Food ranges from pretty good to so-so. but devotees find that
Terilli’s is more than the sum of its parts. 2815 Greenville Ave.. 214-827-3993. $$.
Toscana. You’ll gladly pay top dollar for Executive Chef David Holben’s fancy versions of Tuscan-based
dishes. Appetizers alone are worth the visit: Pan-seared, lemon-thyme calamari is light and delicious, and lightly
creamed grilled com soup with toasted pine nuts is reminiscent of the hearty Tuscan soups of Florence. Indulge in
tiramisu bread pudding with a Frangelico anglaise sauce. 4900 McKinney Ave., 214-521-2244. $$.
Vitto’s. Oak Cliff and Oak Lawn Vino’s have the same minimalist interior-mirrors, sculptural iron screens,
questionable art, and laminate tables. The menu attempts several ambitious dishes-including some veal
preparations-but most people stick to the pasta and pizza. We like the “different” pizzas: one topped with spinach,
goal cheese, and red peppers; the other with garlic, spinach, bacon, and pepperoni. 32 ! 1 Oak Lawn Ave.,
214-522-9955; 3I6W. 7th St., 214-946-1212.$-$$.
JAPANESE
Chaya. Cold beer and warm, salted edamame– so much belter than pretzels–will make you happy to start. Sushi
is consistently good, even the beginner sushi rolls: Rich salmon skin centers contrast nicely with the very sticky
rice. For non-sushi lovers, the skewers from the robata-yaki (grill) are good, especially the chicken chunks of
moist thigh meat and cubes of succulent swordfish. 101 Preston Royal Shopping Center, 214-361-0220. $$.
D BEST Nakamoto. Service tends to range from sublime to abrupt at this stylish, roomy Piano institution, but
cuisine (tempura. sushi, and sashimi) remains uniformly excellent. 3309 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Road, Piano,
972-881-0328. $$.
Sushi at The Stoneleigh. Sedate for a sushi spot, with more of the civilized pace of the old hotel than the
faster rhythms of a typical sushi bar. Still, the fish is fine. We especially like the special Stoneleigh sushi.
2917 Maple Ave., 214-871-711 l.$$-$$$.
D BEST Teppo. Our only yakitori bar is also one of the city’s sushi bars and a favorite weekend date
destination as well. High-energy atmosphere, highly chic modern decor, and high-quality food make this one of
Dallas’ best Japanese restaurants, even though die menu is mostly skewers and sushi. Be sure to try the specials.
2014 Greenville Ave., 214-826-8989. $$-$$$.
LATIN AMERICAN
Fogo de Chao. A churrascaria in Addison with branches in Porto Alegre and Sao Paulo. Fogo de Chao serves
traditional cookery from southern Brazil, starting with the caipirinha (a little like a sweet margarita. with
cachaca, a sugarcane liquor). Overwhelming abundance is the theme: A neverending parade of meat on long skewers is
delivered by gaucho guys in amazing trousers and belts. Very exotic. 4300 Belt Line Rd.. Addison, 972-503-7300.
$$,
Gloria’s. Everyone’s favorite Oak Cliff restaurant has opened yet another branch, this time on already
overloaded Greenville. There’s the inevitable streetside al fresco scene with mar-garitas and nachos on every table,
but the glory of Gloria’s was. is now. and ever shall be its Salvadoran menu, available at every location. Don’t
miss the pupusas (cheese-stuffed corn tortillas) or the banana leaf tamales. 3715 Greenville Ave., 214-874-0088,
Lemmon Oak Cliff $-$$.
For Loafers Only
Dallas has become home (finally) to half a dozen really great bakeries, and La Spiga’s Is our northernmost bread
post. A dozen kinds of European-style, crusty loaves fill the cases, plus this cross-cultural bakery turns out
buttery croissants and chocolate chip cookies, too.
La Spiga’s 4203 Lindberg, Addison, 972-934-8730.
MEDITERRANEAN
Adeline’s. Some go for the food, some go for the intimacy, but almost everybody finds a reason to go back to
this well-hidden gem. Service is unhurried and patient, and the wine list varied and reasonable. Entrées and
appetizers alike feature creatively bold sauces that will hold your attention long after the main ingredients of the
dishes had been devoured. 4537 Cole Ave., 214-559-0325. $$.
Mediterraneo. The Quadrangle location will probably be the prototype for future Mediterraneos. It’s a pretty
restaurant, stylishly minimalist but surprisingly warm and welcoming, and the food-a balance of old and new ideas-is
hard to find fault with. Crusts are all the rage: Halibut is mysteriously crab crusted, salmon has a polenta crust,
and lamb is crusted with goat cheese. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., 214-979-0002; 18111 Preston Rd. at Frankford
Road. Ste. 120, 972-447-0066. $$-$$$.
PoPoLo’s. Wins the popularity contest in its restaurant-free Preston Hollow neighborhood,though against
stiffer competition, the menu might rate as many misses as hits. Choose from pastas, risottos, and hickory grilled
meats with mix-and-match sauces. Wood-fired pizzas and breads (from the adjoining bakery) are usually excellent. 707
Preston Royal Shopping Center, 214-692-5497. $-$$.
D BEST The Riviera. We knew the moment an air) avocado cream hors d’oeuvre passed our lips that we were
doomed, once again, to a near-flawless dining experience. Each dish seems to outdo another. Food credits here mostly
belong to Chef de Cuisine Frank Harris, one assumes, with input from David Holben, now executive chef al sibling
restaurants Méditerranée and Toscana. 7709 In wood Rd.. 214-351-0094.$$$.
Sambuca. Both locations are vibrant restaurants featuring innovative Mediterranean cuisine for those who
enjoy their meals with jazz. Each presents well-known groups seven nights a week, but the decibel level prohibits
any casual dinner conversation during performances, 15207 Addison Rd.. Addison, 972-385-8455; 2618 Elm St.,
214-744-0820. $$.
MEXICAN
D REVISITS Casa Navarro. The memory of old El Taxco, located on McKinney and Si, Paul for more than 40 years,
lives on at the comer of Marsh and Forest. Run by descendants of El Taxco’s Joe Navarro, this little cafe in a
former 7-Eleven specializes in the same unpretentious, cheesy fare we used to love before Tex-Mex became chic. A
bite of cheese enchiladas bubbling in rich chile con came made us even more nostalgic for the days when the tab for
a Tex-Mex dinner with several cold beers was less than $5. It’s still possible here because the beer is
bring-your-own and on Wednesdays the enchilada plate is $3.75 all day long. Okay, so our beans were a tad salty and
the spinach enchiladas were slightly soggy. The chicken mole was rich and spicy without being loo much of either.
Sopapillas, once the darling dessert at every Tex-Mex joint, are still handmade, light, and greaseless, such a
surprisingly elegant finish to the meal that we wished we’d brought our demitasse, too. 11742-A Marsh Lane at
Forest. 972-357-0141. S
El Norte. The decor varies from the authentic look of specials painted directly on the walls to cheesy
plastic flamingos in the flower boxes, but some solidly good food comes out of the kitchen. This is a great family
spot with a reasonable, all-you-can-eat special. 2205 W. Parker Rd.. Piano. 972-596-6783. $.
Herrera’s. In the early ’70s. we used to grab a six-pack and line upon the sidewalk around the original
Alamo-like Herrera’s on Maple Avenue wailing for one of nine tables and a No. 10: one tostada with guacamole, one
cheese enchilada, and a soft cheese taco. Twenty-five years and six locations later, they continue to serve the same
No. 10, along with other reliable Tex-Mex favorites, in tacky surroundings. 4001 Maple Ave.. 214-528-9644: 5427
Demon Dr.. 214-630-2599; 2853 W. Illinois Ave.. 214-330-6426; 1905 N. Josey Ln., 972-242-4912; 9404 Ovella Ave.,
214-956-0150; 3790 Belt Line Rd.. 972-488-2202. $.
Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Javier’s lives up to its own high standards. Entrées range from excellent seafood
dishes to lender cabrito, though some regulars never stray from the legendary filet Durango. 4912 Cole Ave.,
214-521-4211.$$.
La Galle Doce. Far from slicker Belt Line and Greenville Avenue eateries, this old house is home to some
seriously good Mexican-style seafood. Sit on (he porch and dine on a spicy gazpacho-like octopus cocktail served in
huge goblets or shrimp, stuffed with crabmeat, covered with chili con queso and tasting much belter than it sounds.
415 W. 12lh St.. 214-941-4304.$-$$.
Las Cazuelas. This tiny East Dallas jewel serves up marvelous food, starting with the killer salsa that’s
made with fresh cilantro, onion, and tomato essences. On Mondays, the special caldo de res, chunky with beef and
vegetables, is tabulons, as is the super-hot chile relleno. 4933 Columbia Ave.. 214-827-1889. $.
La Valentina. A taste of big city Mexico in suburbia. The beautiful menu makes fascinating reading that
doesn’t always translate to the plate. The polio en mole poblano tops chicken with a sensuous sauce that includes 54
types of chilies. spices, and a touch of chocolate, resulting in a richly layered smoky-sweet flavor. Forget that
fascinating menu when it’s time for dessert and ask for the flan. 14866 Montfort Dr.. Addison. 972-726-0202. $$.
Mario’s Chiquita. A Dallas classic, this restaurant eschews velvet paintings and kitsch in favor of a pretty,
casual decor and offers upscale Mexico City-style fare, as well as some of the best Tex-Mex combinations in town.
221 W. Parker Rd.. Ste. 400. Piano. 972-423-2977. $-$$.
Martin’s Cocina. The kitchen here docs magic things with seafood (shrimp especially) and offers a listing of
entrées that weigh in at less than 1.000 calories each, including the four chiles rellenos. But only skimp if you
want to-the most basic combination plate starts with a lettuce-topped chalupa, its toasty tortilla thickly spread
with guacamole. 7726 Ferguson Rd.. 214-319-8834.$-$$.
Mattito’s. Matt Martinez Jr. himself doesn’t have anything to do with Mattito’s, but he did develop the
recipes, and those didn’t change when he left. So the chile relleno and griddled flautas are excellent. The service
is snappy. and what it lacks in charm, it makes up for in efficiency. 5290 Belt Line Rd. al Mont fort Drive.
Addison. 972-503-8100; 4311 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-8181.5.
D BEST Matt s Rancho Martinez. the place is filled with the faithful a! every meal because the flautas are
the best in Dallas, the chile relleno is food for the gods, and even a combination plate satisfies, if you don’t
mint processed cheese. 6332 La Vista Dr., 214-823-5517. $-$$.
Mia’s. For 14 years, this venerable institution has dished up definitive Tex-Mex food to addicts who stand in
line on Tuesdays, when owner Ana Enriquez satisfies their lust for her incomparable chiles rellenos. Other days,
they make do with house specialties. Service is cheerful: the setting is no-frills comfortable. The had news: beer
and wine only. 4322 Lemmon Ave.. 214-526-1020. S.
D BEST Monica Aca Y Alla. This cool place has been around long enough to be a tradition in these days of
restaurants that open and close-especially in Deep Ellum. The ambitious menu offers intriguing Southwestern-inspired
options as well as more stand;ird Tex-Mex. in a hip and hopping ambience, Best lunch deals in town. 2914 Main St..
214-748-7140.$$.
Nuevo Leon. Excellent Mex-Mex food in a comfortable old Greenville Avenue location draws a mixed crowd but
enthusiastic reviews. Cabrito is good, mole is excellent, carnitas are the best. 2013 Greenville Ave..
214-887-8148; 12895 Josey Ln., 972-488-1984. $-$$.
Omega’s. It’s easy to imagine ending evenings at Omega’s. But fortunately Omega’s is also a great place to lunch,
and it’s even a comfortable place to eat alone. This friendly tittle cafe on a Deep Ellum side street serves a
complimentary cup of chile con queso with the warmed salsa and tostados. There’s nothing particularly original about
the menu, but the basic cheese -oozing enchilada plate is pure comfort food. 212 N. Crowdus St.. 214-744-6842. $.
Pepe & Mito’s. The vivid walls and bright lights mean this cafe looks noisy even though it’s not usually
crowded. It should be-chips worth mentioning {thick, warm, slightly overcooked), cilantro-laced salsa, and standards
like nachos and enchiladas aie excellent. Tamales are utterly remarkable, and chicken and beef taquitos are still
some of the best in town. 2935 Elm St., 214-741-1901. $.
Plano Tortilla Factory. If you live in Piano, then this little place should be on the top of your list for a
quick bite, takeout, or delivery. Piano Tortilla Factory’s appeal doesn’t end with the food-the friendly owner is
quick to strike up a conversation and make you feel welcome. Low prices are a bonus, too. 1009 E. 18th St., Piano,
972-423-6980. $.
D REVISITS Primo’s Avenue location has alway been a late-night mecca for foodies looking for a fix of great
Tex-Mex and a happening bar scene. We didn’t find the same hot bar scene in Addison (despite $3 margaritas all day
on Tuesdays), but we did find that the quality of the food now equals Uptown’s. On the “Mex” side of the Tex-Mex
fare, cheese enchiladas came gushing with cheddar cheese gurgling in thick chili con carne topped with more cheese.
Our cheese-fest continued with a “Tex” version of a chili rel-leno: a cheese-stuffed poblano pepper. dipped in a
queso and egg batter and then deep-fried, giving it a crunchy, fried chickenlike coating. The whole wonderful pepper
is coated with-you guessed it-chili con queso. The amount of money the kitchen spends on cheese could probably put a
man on the moon-there is even grated cheese on the side salads. We ate it all. 14905 Midway. Addison, 972-661-2287;
3309 McKinney, 214-220-0510.$.
Rafa’s. One Dallas institution replaced another when Raphael’s (now Rafa’s) opened in Mr. Peppe’s old space
on Lovers Lane. The arched brick wine cellar is bright orange, and the pastoral Swiss view has been replaced by
pictures of many Aztec gods and one happy tomato. The place could still use a few velvet paintings, but the
tablescape is complete: Light, fresh chips, vinegary salsa, and fast margaritas are the intro to a meal that’s
quintessential Dallas Mexican. 5617 W. Lovers Ln., 214-357-2080. $-$$.
MIDDLE EASTERN
Al- Amir. The Mediterranean meets the rising sun at AI Amir, which took the place of a Japanese restauxant.
The result is an odd. melting-pot ambience. Concentrate on the plate- Middle Eastern expectations are well-met with
good renditions of hummus, baba ghanoush. and lamb. But there are also some less well-known dishes to try. 7402
Greenville Ave., 214-739-2647.$$.
Cafe Istanbul. The tiny kitchen overachieves on most of its Turkish dishes, especially if you like it spicy.
The dining room gets cozy at night, but those who tolerate early evening daylight are rewarded with a happy hour.
Solid service tops off a superb all-around experience. 5450 W. Lovers Ln.. Ste. 222, 214-902-0919. $-$$.
D BEST Cafe Izmir. A unique dining experi-ence: In this popular and charming little cafe, diners choose a
vegetarian or a meat-based meal rather than ordering from a menu. And then a parade of delightful food
appears-lemon-zested tabbouleh, hummus, Mediterranean cole slaw, pita quarters, grilled kabob lubes of ground beef
and marinated chicken, and lamb. A scarce Greek red wine called Boutari Maossa is a happy find here. and the sweet
Turkish coffee in fragile cups is as irresistible as the desserts. 3711 Greenville Ave., 214-826-7788. $$.
Hedary’s. George Hedary is back with a comfortable clone of the Fort Worth original, menu and all. in North
Dallas. Order the menu’s maza appetizer and you’ll get a dozen sampler starters. And tiny cups of Lebanese coffee
keep you awake on the drive home. 7915 Belt Line Rd.. 972-233-1080. $$
MOROCCAN
D BEST Marrakesh. Just what is Moroccan cuisine, and what is it doing in Dallas’? It is lamb and couscous and
fresh vegetables spiced with mysterious combinations of nutmeg, paprika, and cumin-wonderful. The Moroccan Feast-a
sample of almost everything on the menu-is a bargain at $25.95 per person. Vibrant Middle-Eastern music accompanies
a veiled belly dancer in a purple bra who gyrates and finger-cymbales her way around the room. 5207 W. Lovers Ln.,
214-357-4104.$$.
NEW AMERICAN
Antares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-high, revolving restaurant appears to be finding its wings at last. Huge sea
scallops were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes and shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops
of melted queso fresco in a roasted shallot vinaigrette. Reunion Tower. 300 Reunion Blvd., 214-651-1234. S$$.
Anzu. The Nakamotos spent a considerable amount of money to alter Anzu’s entrance so its feng shui would be
perfectly balanced. Maybe il helps the consistently balanced flavors in the bento boxes. Lunch at this orientally
inclined restaurant has always been one of the best deals in town-a beautiful arrangement of tempura and sushi or a
plate of Asian-influenced fish or chicken, served gracefully, under a flock of origami birds, for less than $10.
4620 McKinney Ave., 214-526-7398. $$.
Beau Nash. The genteel bustle of a world-class hotel makes dinner at this restaurant seem like a special
occasion. Good picks: a portobello tart or moist-hearted Atlantic salmon. Bad pick: a salad of Belgian endive and
unforgivably dry and yellow mache. Service throughout is immaculate and thoughtful. Hotel Crescent Court. 2215 Cedar
Springs Rd., 214-871-3240. $$-$$$.
City Cafe. This California-inspired, mostly family-run cafe opened over a dozen years ago but remains in the
top tier of Dallas restaurants. The charming but dim dining room is furnished with cottage antiques, and the food is
classic, with a wake-up flash of invention-Fresh tomato basil soup is famous. The service, is confident and careful,
and the American wine list is one of the best in town. 5757 W. Lovers Ln? 214-351-2233. $$.
Gershwin’s. Pretty people, pretty food, pretty prices set the scene for power lunching in this
California-influenced Upper Greenville emporium, where on-track careerists linger over creative fare noontimes and
gather after work to share single malts, tall foods, and to people-watch. An outstanding wine list. too. 8442 Walnut
Hill Ln., 214-373-7171. $$-$$$.
Landmark Restaurant. Landmark’s menu may make you wish for an atlas and a thesaurus to find your way around,
but if you’ll close your eyes, forget about the origin of your vegetables, and eat them, you’ll have a great trip.
The New American food here, under the direction of Jim Anile, is ultra-imaginative, if highly complicated. And (he
gently refurbished room remains one of the most gracious in town. In the Melrose, 3015 Oak Lawn Ave..
214-521-5151.$$-$$$.
D BEST Laurels. Rising star executive chef and general manager Danielle Custer brings her cutting-edge
cuisine to Sheraton Park Central’s 20th floor. Incomprehensible dishes like pear soup with plum wine crème fraiche
don’t make sense until you put them in your mouth. You have to trust Custer: She thinks with her palate, and the
results are brilliant. Sheraton Park Central. 12720 Merit Dr., 972-385-3000. $$$.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. This isn’t dinner, it’s a dining experience. A dramatic, country club-like,
members-only dining experience. The Grande Dame of Dallas dining lives up to its legend-the atmosphere is inimitably
posh, the food is predictably innovative. The price? If you have to ask, you can’t afford it. 2821 Turtle Creek
Blvd.. 214-526-2121. S$$.
Nana Grill. The new menu broadens Nana’s focus from Southwestern to Regional American. Service is supremely
suave and caring, the accouterments define luxe, and the ambience is as comfortably refined as always in this
upscale establishment. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel Tower. 2201 Stemmons Frwy.. 214-761-7479. $$$.
Sevjr’s. The thoroughly American Prairie-style interior perfectly complements chef-owner Jim Severson’s
hearty American cuisine. The plates here present classic ideas with imaginative updates. The menu is varied but beef
is a reliable choice-the tenderloin is slightly hickory smoked. The marinated mushroom appetizer is the best
portobello in town. 8201 Preston Rd.. 214-265-7389. $$.
SEAFOOD
D BEST AquaKnox. Stephan Pyles’ swanky seafood spot has commanded national attention, and the swell decor and
meticulous food mostly merit it. Luscious red snapper in red curry masa is an example of the global approach to
seafood. The rich and the wannabes are sipping bright blue Aquatinis in the elegant lounge, eating from a simpler
menu that includes platters of fresh shrimp. oysters, clams, and small-plate versions of the dinner entrees, an
excellent option for those who want a taste of the high life without the high lab. 3214 Knox St.. 214-219-2782.
$$$.
Cafe Pacific. Cafe Pacific continues to delight as one of Dallas’ most reliable luncheon and dinner
restaurants, as well as the place to witness the social structure of Dallas’ power people in action. Menu favorites
like calamari. clam chowder. Caesar salad, salmon, and red snapper are superbly prepared and presented by an
experienced waitstaff. 24 Highland Park Village. 214-526-1170. $$-$$$.
Daddy Jack’s. Chef Jack Chaplin’s liny restau-rant with its casual cozy atmosphere is perfect for a dale or
for breezing in after a day at die lake. Bui forget about atmosphere. What we’re really talking about is fantastic,
though richly prepared, seafood. Also worth noting are the relaxed, efficient service and fair prices: The
experience is worth every penny. 1916 Greenville Ave.. 214-826-4910; 150 S.Denton Tap. Coppell. 972-393-5152.$$.
Daddy Jack’s Wood Grill This Jack Chaplin restaurant offers lively service and food that manage to combine
homey familiarity with twists of near-elegance. For example, a grilled red snapper topped with shrimp and lobster
brandy could grace a tonier table, but here it’s served with an ear of corn. 2723 Elm St., 214-653-3949. $$.
Fish. This elegant downtown spot got very hot very fast, and il may have gone to their heads. Not only have
we seen inconsistencies in the food, but service has been snooty. When they’re on. the acclaimed Green Soup-a
shallow bowl piled high with shells, legs, and tails protruding recklessly from a broth-is divine. Late-night menu
from 10 p.m.-2 a.m. 302 S. Houston St., 214-747-3474. $$-$$$.
Lefty’s. Although the menu is small. Lefty’s features everything you’d expect a good lobster house to have,
including beef for those who don’t like seafood. One big bargain: the
one-pound lobster with baked potato and corn for $10.95. 4021 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-774-9518.$$.
D BEST Lombard! Mare. The stylishly ished interior is a real mind-blow-er. and so is the food. Feast on five
types of farm-fresh oysters, steamed mussels, and lobster. A polenta crusted salmon served with red cabbage was a
perfect meal. If we had to choose one place to entertain an out-of-town-er, Lombardi Mare would be our choice.5100
Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-503-1233. $$.
Newport’s, Some of the freshest seafood you’ll find in land-locked North Texas. Choose from mesquite-grilled
fish, seared, blackened, or fried seafood, and sautéed chicken. Housed in the old Dallas Brewery and Bottling
works, Newport’s three-tiered dining room actually holds a huge, open Artesian well that once fed the
pre-Prohibition brewing operation. 703 McKinney Ave.. 214-954-0220. $$.
Picardys Shrimp Shop, New American inventiveness at family-style prices. Picardys finds a regional
inspiration for most of its mostly shrimp dishes: Coconut tempura shrimp are tender, juicy, and pleasantly sweet: a
side of honey-sour sauce added a potent bite Grilled shrimp nachos. with shrimp, black beans. white cheese, and
salsa, were light and chewy. Picardys’ kid-friendly atmosphere is a plus. 6800 Snider Plaza. 214-373-4099. $-$$.
S&D Oyster Company. Serving fresh seafood in an authentic New Orleans atmosphere for more years than we care
to remember. S&D has become a mainstay of quality. 2701 McKinney Ave.. 214-880-0111.$$.
Sea Grill. Mall sprawl makes this Piano oasis hard to find, which would make Us unflagging popularity hard to
explain if Chef Andy Tun’s highly creative takes on seafood were not so arresting. Dip a half-dozen raw oysters in
Tun’s tangy grapefruit-horseradish sauce, and you’ll wonder why you ever overwhelmed such delicacy with ketchup. And
your fork’s own weight slides through the barely seared jumbo sea scallop or a moist-hearted cut of grilled tuna.
2205 N. Central Expwy.. Ste. 180. Piano. 972-509-5542. $$.
Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab. Miami-inspired. this striking art-deco eatery is the only spot in Dallas that
serves the infamous stone crab seven days a week, year-round. They come in four sizes, and they’re ruinously
expensive. Truluck’s showcases an attentiveness to detail and skillful service-even if it demands you crush your
piggy bank before savoring those claws. 5001 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 972-503-3079; 2401 McKinney. 214-220-2401
$$-$$$.
D REVISITS Vincent’s. With the recent explosion of trendy high-end seafood eateries, we’d forgotten about
this long-time Dallas favorite-Vincent’s boasts
that it’s been serving Dallas for 100 years. Tucked between the tacky strip joints and Quick Lube centers that line
a decaying stretch of West Northwest Highway. Vincent’s parking lot is loaded with Mercedes, BMWs, and Cadillacs.
Inside, the old scotch-and-soda crowd packs a dining room where the smokers outnumber the “nons.” Vincents hasn’t
conformed to any current low-fat or global-spice trends; the signature Red Snapper a la Vincent’s is still a
deliciously rich filet, lightly breaded, sautéed in loads of lemon butter, and topped with a huge clump of fresh
crab. Cole slaw is still garlicky after all these years. There is a lighter side: A lovely broiled halibut was
sauced with about half the Snapper’s butter. The whole experience is completely unhip and therefore completely
comforting. 3004 N Northwest Highway. 214-352-2692; 2432 Preston at Park. Piano, 972-612-6208. $$-$$$.
SOUTHWESTERN
Blue Mesa. Blue Mesa has become a dining mainstay, faithful to its Southwest mission and consistently good.
Adobe pie, the signature dish, is a treat, the bowl-shaped mound of commeal enclosing a stew-like filling of
seasoned chicken. Guacamole, barely seasoned and creamy, is some of the best in town. Our only quibble is the Blue
Mesa margarita: We want to be warned when were going to be served a blue drink-so we can order something else.
Village on the Parkway. Toll way at Belt Line Road, 972-934-0)65, $-$$.
Flying Burro. The Burro’s brand of Mexican food isn’t purely New Mexican-there’s more meal and cheese richness on
(his menu than most New Mexicans (except those from California) can afford to relish. Enchiladas are stacked and
come topped with an egg. 2831 Greenville Ave.. 214-827-2112. $.
No Place. Tender elk sirloin and boneless rabbit are sided with sautéed portobello mushrooms and onions.
Better-than-beef chicken-fried venison comes with Man’s famous smoked mashed potatoes. The food is why Matt Martinez
Jr. is a legend-in his own neighborhood, anyway. 6325 La Vista Dr., 214-328-9078.S$-$$$.
D BEST Star Canyon. Chef-owner Stephan Pyles has created a Dallas destination with his innovative New Texas
Cuisine. An appetizer of fried green tomatoes stacked high with layers of Dallas-made mozzarella is a rare case of
tall food tasting as good as it looks. And the hone-in cowboy ribeye on a bed of pinto beans and covered with a
mound of shoestring onion rings dusted with red chile should he listed in Fodor’s under Dallas’ top attractions.
3102 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-520-7827. $$.
Y.0, Ranch. This food may be dubbed “early Texas cooking.” but we doubt many Old West ranch cooks whipped up
this sophisticated a menu, starting with the seafood corn cake, a vast flapjack concealing nuggets of crab. shrimp,
oysters, and com kernels. Entrees range from basic steaks to turkey, catfish, shrimp, and the Muy Grande Tex-Mex
Platter. 702 Ross Ave.. 214-744-3287. $-$$.
SPANISH
Barcelona. Tapas in Spain, of course, are .Spanish food. Greenville Avenue, is global. So Barcelona serves
snack food from ail over (he-world, such as chicken satay. mezes. and tab-bouleh. as well as the stacked potato
omelet that is the quintessential Spanish tapa and the buffalo burger-juicy and lean on a toasted roll. 2100
Greenville Ave.. 214-826-8600. $.
Cafe Madrid. Dallas” first lapas bar remains its best, and everybody knows it. Even midweek, this little
two-room restaurant has customers waiting at the bar for one of the mismatched tables in the storefront space. For
those who insist, there is a prix-fixe, three-course dinner menu, but Cafe Madrid is a great place to linger over a
succession of small dishes-an assortment of olives, oxtail stew, the potato omelet called a tortilla, braised lamb
slices. 4501 Travis St., 214-528-1731. $1
La Tasca Espanola. So many tapas, so little time. You can make a meal by choosing small plates from the list
of 22-and do it for under $20. We encountered some rough spots after a recent change in ownership, but we hope they
will get their classic paella Valencia back in shape. The service is gracious, and the fun wine list is full of
inexpensive Spanish reds- one bottle of which cost as much as two glasses in most restaurants. 4131 Lomo Alto Dr.,
214-599-9563. $$.
STEAKHOUSES
Arthur’s. Having marked its half-century mile-post, this continental steakhouse still deserves its reputation
for dependably upscale dining. It’s clubby and suave in a retro kind of way. A fist-sized tenderloin filet is
wonderful, and the martinis are ample. 8350 N. Central Expwy. (in Campbell Center), 214-361-8833. $$$.
Bob’s Steak & Chop House. This place dazzles with juicy, tasty cuts of meat-coupled with
veggie and potato-and pleasant; attentive service. All at the appropriate price. 4300 Lemmon Ave., 214-528-9446.
$$-$$$.
D BEST Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House.
Prime rib and a trimmed-to-lean ribeye are robustly rare and complemented with garlic mashed potatoes. Figure in
service that is, if not clairvoyant, almost uncannily empathetic. and you’ll have some grasp of the comfortable
ambience that keeps this cigar-friendly outpost filled even on weekday evenings. 5330 Belt Line Rd? Addison.
972-934-2467. $$-$$$.
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. Filets are virtually perfect, fashioned from cuts of meat as thick as
couch cushions, and the wine list is varied. Even the vegetables are great. Not for the faint of pocketbook, but
it’s worth serious consideration when you’re in the mood to blow it out red-meat style. 5251 Spring Valley Rd.,
972-490-9000. $$-$$$.
D REVISITS Kirby’s steakhouse. The Greenville location preserves some of the ’50s feel of one of Dallas’
original steakhouses. Only the speak-easy door is missing. The Piano version has more glitz and sparkle, but we like
the meat- and-potatoes lack of pretension at the nearly-original Kirby’s, even though our last few visits have been
uneven. One dinner had six happy Yankee carnivores whistling Dixie, but more recently we were served a puck-like
filet sitting alone on a parsley-less plate, and there were details that irritated us oui of the comfort zone the
setting promised. For instance, the salad dressings were good-especially the house creamy garlic dressing- but
weren’t tossed with the greens. Instead, we got a decorative dollop on top like an ice cream sundae’s whipped cream
flourish. And we didn’t understand what made the mashed potatoes “famous”-we tasted nothing more than potatoes
whipped with lots of pepper. On the other hand, sen-ice was smart and attentive, the prime rib was pure
retro-quality, and the onion rings might be the best in Dallas. 3525 Greenville Avenue, 214-821-2122; 3408 Preston
Road. Piano. 972-867-2122. $$
Randy’s Steakhouse. A meal in this cozy, Victorian home-cum-restaurant can make you feel like you’re having
dinner at a friend’s. But your friends never served steaks like these. Graded prime and cut by hand, these beauties
are rich and buttery. Ten seafood selections offer plenty of alternate choices. 7026 Main St? Frisco.
972-335-3066.$$-$$$.
Stone Trail Steakhouse. Lavish decor, live music for late dancing, an upscale menu and wine list mark this
sprawling steak spread as the brainchild of restaurateur Tony Taherzadeh, former owner of Farfallo and Papillon. A
clubby ambience and prescient service support terrific beef treatments (try the bone-in ribeye): seafood and other
meats provide variety. Dinner only. 14R33 Midway Rd.. 972-701-9600. $$$.
THAL
Chow Thai. A strip shopping center doesn’t seem a likely spot for a Thai food epiphany. but you’ll have one
here. Excellent Thai classics like vegetables in a fiery green curry and pad Thai taste clean and light. A dessert
of fresh mango atop sticky rice is a spectacular ending. 5290 Beltline Rd. at Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-960-2999.
$$.
D BEST Liberty. Annie Wong, the mother of Thai food in Dallas, still owns three all-Thai restaurants, but
Liberty is where her imagination is freed. Romantically and softly lit, with beaded candleshades on each tabic and
bamboo birdcages animated with twinkling Christmas lights, the brightly lit kitchen makes Liberty into real dinner
theater, and Wong is the star. What makes her food different is what makes any chef’s food special: imagination.
5631 Alta Ave., 214-887-8795. $$.
Royal Thai. Furnished with omate Thai antiques and traditional arts, Royal Thai is a pleasantly upscale
change from the starkly serviceable interiors of so many Thai restaurants. Chicken packets are wrapped in
tenderizing banana leaves. Curries are fragrant and benefit from their presentation under a little domed top. In Old
Town. 5500 Greenville Ave,, 214-691-3555. $-$$.
VIETNAMESE
Mal’s. Mai’s is one of those places that has lots of loyal customers. The menu is stocked with authentic
Vietnamese specialties, including lots of noodle and rice entrées and the classic hot pots: exotic meats,
vegetables, and spices cooked and served in clay pots. Be sure and try the legendary Vietnamese coffee with
sweetened condensed milk. 4812 Bryan St., 214-826-9887. $.
Mai’s Oriental Cuisine. The Vietnamese menu is
the one to go for. Proprietor Mai Pham opened the first Vietnamese restaurant in Dallas, and her food is still
terrific ai her little restaurant in Snider Plaza. The hot pots are especially good-“hot chic” is the regulars’
favorite. 6912 Snider Plaza. 214-361-8220. $-$$.
Saigon Bistro. Authentic Vietnamese food translated into English. Saigon Bistro aims for the authenticity of
a point-and-order Vietnamese restaurant, without the risk. The menu lets you know what to expect, and this is one of
the only places in town thai serves “festive beef,” a special occasion dinner in Vietnam- one you shouldn’t miss.
17390 Preston Rd.. Ste. 490, 972-380-2766. $-$$.
VietNam. A little bit of Southeast Asia transplanted to East Dallas. VietNam has very little Western
influence to make the cultural transition easier. This is Vietnamese food designed for the Vietnamese community. But
some things are universal-the appeal of hot soup, for instance. And VietNam’s hot pot, a comforting, steaming
caldron of soup, noodles, and vegetables, is enough to share. 4302 Bryan St.. 214-821-4542. $-$$.
TARRANT COUNTY
D BEST Angelo’s Barbecue. The Fort Worth landmark is one of the bookends of Dallas-Fort Worth area barbecue,
its Dallas counterpart being the original Sonny Bryan’s, Famous for fabulous ribs smoked so tender the meat falls
off the bone at the slightest nudge from the incisors, which are properly enjoyed with a couple of Shiners. 2533
White Settlement Rd., Fort Worth. 817-332-0357. S.
Angeluna. The patio swarms with an artsy Chanel-and-Chandonnay crowd before and after events at the Bass Performance
Hall across the street. The “one-world-on-a-plate” menu features designer pizzas, pastas, and spinach and mushroom
salads corralled by delicate potato rings. Who cares if it’s more about style than substance? After all. the parent
company is in Aspen. 215 E. 4th St., Fort Worth, 817-334-0080.$$.
Benito’s. Like an old familiar friend. Benito’s appearance may be spruced up from time to time, but some
things never change–like the food. The queso flameado, with or without chorizo, is flamed tableside and served with
fresh pico de gallo and hot flour or com tortillas. Order it first and then spend some time with the
menu–everything on it is worth trying. 1450 W. Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth, 817-332-8633. $$.
Bistro Louise. This gem of a bistro offers lake-out now. but the staff seems curiously challenged by the
idea. The famed smoked duck and stuffed lamb loin travel well, but even delicate reheating of an appetizer of Brie
roasted in pastry petals fails to restore it. Savored in the sunny bistro, the cuisine works Mediterranean magic.
Enjoy it there as often as possible. 2900 S. Hulen St., Fort Worth, 817-922-9244. $$.
Blue Mesa. See listing in Dallas Southwestern. University Park Village. 1600 S. University, Fori
Worth,817-332-6372. $-$$,
Cacharel. With country French decor, this fixed-price ($34.50) refuge easily tops Arlington’s dining scene,
such as it is, with its ninth-floor business building location as well as its New French cuisine. 2221 E. Lamar
Blvd., Ste. 910. Arlington, metro 817-640-9981. $$$.
Cattlemen’s Steak House. Fori Worth ate cattle before cattle was cool, and Cattlemen’s is still the
quintessential stockyard steak-house. There’s not much but beef accompanied by rolls, potatoes, and iceberg lettuce
salad, but the atmosphere is genuine cowboy. 2458 N. Main St., Fort Worth. 817-624-3945.$$-$$$.
8.0. See listing in Dallas Eclectic. 111 E. 3rd. Fort Worth, 817-336-0880, $-$$.
Forest Park Cafe. A Franco-Texan neighborhood bistro atmosphere with a slightly quaint menu that features
crêpes and patés, as well as simple sandwiches and handmade vegetable ravioli with roasted tomato sauce. Stellar
Saturday and Sunday brunches have become a West Side tradition. 2418 Forest Park Blvd.. Fort Worth. 817-921-4567.
S.
D BEST Grape Escape. The gimmick here is education-Grape Escape is trying to do the same thing for wine that
brew pubsdid for beer. So you order “flights” of the grape of your choice, and the waiter brings a four-glass
tasting of say, chardonnay. from Sonoma. Napa. Australia, and New Zealand. Compare and contrast. The food is
designed around the wine, so you can change direction mid-meal- start with white wine and suggested matches, finish
with red wine and cheese. The selection of small plates-merguez sausages, pate, salads, stuffed potatoes,
pizzettes-adds up to a full meal that’s lots of fun.
Joe T. Garcia’s Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery.
Although not as fancy as its cousin around the corner, the chefs do an excellent job preparing all the old favorites
from burritos to tamales. Breakfast is a work of art here. And on your way out, the bakery, in an alcove off the
dining room, sells traditional Mexican breads, rolls. and sweet rolls, 2122 N. Main St., Fort Worth.
817-626-5770.$$.
D BEST Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. The quintessential Fort Worth restaurant. Its location near the
Stockyards is a rambling plantation that can handle the crowds for whom the restaurant’s status hovers somewhere
between “institution” and “nirvana.” Wait for a spot outside by the pool and order The Stoney Side of the Street
This little stone house may have the worst retail location In the city. You can’t miss It driving Into town from the
Tollway, but when you’re going home, you have to drive around several blocks to find It. The only solution Is for
Stone Savage, musician and proprietor of Stoney’s, to stock stuff you can’t get anywhere else. So check out his wine
room, a tiny little stash of strange and inexpensive (nothing over $30) wines in the back. We picked up a two-liter
bottle of Fossie Rosso Chianti for ten bucks and a bottle of Spanish Red for only $5.60.
Stoney’s Wine & Gifts, 2701 Harry Nines, 214-953-3067.
