Restaurant Reviews

NEWCOMERS

BIERNAT’S

AL BlERNAT, THE FRONT MAN FOR THE Palm, has stepped out of the West End and established himself as the proprietor of Biernat’s in the old Joey’s space on Oak Lawn. Undoubtedly, most of his regular patrons from the Palm will follow him. Recognized faces will expect the superlative service that follows from friendship with the host. And AI will benefit from the forgiveness that comes from being friendly with his regular guests. Still, there are many folks, believe it or not, who will eat at Biernat’s but never ate at the Palm and don’t know Al from Adam. The question is, what do they expect from the new restaurant?

The formerly frenetic Joey’s has been calmed into a fancifully Tuscan place with softly rustic walls and a water-colored dome over the bar. The entry is still a little confusing, though. In a restaurant where die host is the theme, it might be better to spotlight that space a little more. Franco Bertolasi, remember, stands at a virtual altar when you enter the Riviera.

I don’t know Al and Al doesn’t know me, so my dinner at Biernat’s was not acquaintance-enhanced. I had to judge Biemat’s by the usual yardsticks: service and food. Neither was particularly stellar, especially considering the price.

The menu features a section called “Entrees” as well as one called “Al’s Specialties,” a distinction which signified the two-pronged direction at Biernat’s. The specialty section featured prime rib, tenderloin, rack of lamb, a New York strip, and jumbo lobsters-all the meat and sides that were on the Palm’s menu. The entrees section revealed the imagination of a chef who has more on his mind than meat. Sea bass with parsnip potatoes and wild mushroom jus, caramelized salmon with lemon grass buerre blanc-balsamic essence, herb-crusted lamb rack with goat cheese, and cherry demi-glace were some of the more exotic dishes. We tried some of each-the sea bass, a three-pound Godzilla lobster, the strip, medium rare. The sea bass was moist, but the two mainstays were a problem-the steak was overcooked, and the waiter dropped a lobster claw on the floor as he cracked it. Both are expensive mistakes to remedy.

At lunch with a Palm regular, the story was a little bit different. We were ushered to our tables by Biernat himself, who checked in on us often, introducing the staff, asking about the food. We were his best friends, and he wanted us to be so happy. I know a hospitable host can’t make the kitchen cook any more accurately, but lunch was a better meal than dinner. It was pretty much a soup-and-salad lunch that we tasted: a Texas onion version of the French broth-based soup, a milky chowder chock-full of crabmeat and corn. The steak sandwich came off well, a staid businessman’s choice typical of Palmists, but so did the more contemporary slices of grilled and balsamic-dressed portobello mushroom and tomato fanned around a hummock of baked goat cheese-a ’90s munchie-lunch with sesame-crusted crostini to dip in the mushroom jus. Nicoise salad was not so good-all tossed together instead of composed on the plate and lacking both the sparkle and the heft of the original version. Of course, that’s what you should expect when you ask an artichoke to stand in for an anchovy. That was my ordering error, perhaps, not the kitchen’s fault.

A restaurant based on personality is a trick, like spinning plates-it’s hard to keep your eye on all those good friends at once. Biernat has made a good start, but he needs to make sure he has a good kitchen to fall back on when there aren’t enough handshakes to go around.

Biernat’s, 4217 Oak Lawn, 214-219-2201, $$$.



BIG FISH, LITTLE FISH

THE SEA IS MORE CROWDED NOW THAN IT was when Kenny Bower and Jack Chaplin first founded Daddy Jack’s on Lowest Greenville. Their homey formula of fresh seafood, simply prepared, was the first wave of the seafood revolution that inundated the city’s dining landscape. Even when Bowers left with Chaplin’s blessing to open Lefty’s in Addison, the fish frenzy had not peaked. But by the time Bowers opened his latest venture, Big Fish, Little Fish, we were seafood savvy in Dallas. Judging from our recent visit to the new place on Henderson (where Natchez used to be) it appears to me that Bowers is now playing catch-up with us.

I was sorry to say goodbye to Natchez, a quiet restaurant with terrific cattish. But I’d learned to trust Bowers, so I expected good things from Big Fish. The kitschy interior is fine, even the silly restored ChrisCraft that serves as a special table in the front dining room. 1 like funky, no-frills places. But it has to be countered with quality, and our first meal at Big Fish was a disaster.

King cake, a patty of crawfish, crab, and shrimp, was fine, in a Mom’s kitchen supper kind of way. But it was overwhelmed by the mustard sauce that striped it. House-smoked salmon was oversmoked; they could have been strips of hot dog on the plate. And the Boston chowder was overwhelmed by the aroma of bacon.

The blackboard menu features a list of fish-you can specify grilled, sautéed, or blackened-with mix-and-match sauces. Our waiter was hard-pressed to make pairing recommendations, and his suggestion of chardonnay cream over the tilapia was ill-conceived. Unfortunately, so was this tilapia. Thin, obviously from the end of the fish, it was overcooked and tasteless. Pecan-breaded catfish, a holdover from Natchez, was grease-soaked. Perhaps it had been breaded too far ahead of time, and fried too cold.

On our second visit, we tried the simple stuffed snapper, a filet spread with a mixture similar to the kingcake and baked. It was better, a real stick-to-your-ribs fish dish, especially with the sides of mashed potatoes and corn.

I can only hope that Kenny Bowers remembers how to cook. Otherwise, we’ll go fishing elsewhere.

Big Fish, Little Fish, 2918 Henderson, 214-821-4552,$$-$$$.



SOL’S

SOL’S MOVE TO SUBURBIA WAS MADE IN THE same laid-back, under-achieving style that made the restaurant in Deep Ellum such a favorite. Instead of emphasizing location and rolling out dozens of restaurants like a tortilla machine, Sol’s has moved to a rundown strip mall leased to non-contenders at the corner of Mockingbird and Abrams. The low-key goal here seems to be to offer pretty good Mexican food in a pretty comfortable place to folks who live pretty close. This isn’t destination dining, it’s a neighborhood drop-in. I can handle that. This happens to be a neighborhood in need of enchiladas. Sol’s is in the formerly tosta-da-free zone bounded by Matt’s in Lakewood, Nuevo Leon on Greenville, and Mi Cocina in Highland Park Village. This is a pretty vast Tex-Mex vacancy for Dallas, where we eat more Mexican food than anything.

Sol’s has tried to give the linoleum atmosphere some soul with downtown grit (concrete floors, exposed ceiling), but it takes time to create the kind of tacky patina Sol’s deserves, and its current location and decoration don’t take you very far. But there’s a jukebox and some beer signs, and maybe that suits the retro Tex-Mex offered on the plate, Simple Tex-Mex is no longer enough to attract fickle diners, so restaurants invent extra gimmicks to differentiate their place from all the other taco joints in town. That explains Mexico City Mex, seafood Mex, specialty tacos, and veggie Mex. But Sol’s has found a niche where old-fashioned, heavy-handed combination plates-oozing enchiladas, rich chili gravy, deep fried flautas, lush guacamole (three ice cream scoops over iceberg in a large order)-are all that’s required. Nachos come with a pile of sliced jalapenos, margaritas have plenty of tequila, and the set is tuned to Mexican TV. Really, what more do you want on a Sunday evening?

Sol’s, 6434 Mockingbird, 214 821-7911.$-$$.

NOTICE TO RESTAURATEURS

Several instances of people representing themselves as D Magazine food critics have heen reported to us. Now is a good time to restate our long-standing policies: Our critics never identify themselves and never request special treatment. If anyone visits your restaurant under false pretenses or asks for anything free in this magazine’s name, please call the police.

BARBECUE

BARBECUE Baker’s Ribs. Nothing fancy about this place. Load up your tray with piles of sliced beef, pork, turkey, chicken, cayenne-seasoned St. Louis-cut ribs, and the usual side dishes: potato salad, cole slaw, and beans. We still prefer the Commerce Street location. 2724 Commerce St., 214-748-5433; 4844 Greenville Ave., 214-373-0082; 488 W. 1-30 at Belt Line Road, Garland, 972-226-7447. $.

Peggy Sue Barbecue. This ’50s-style joint in Snider Plaza is serving some of the best BBQ in town. Terrific appetizers include Texas Torpedoes-cream cheese-filled fried jalapenos. Baby back ribs, chicken, Polish kiel-basa sausage, and brisket are smoked to perfection. Vegetables, usually second-class in the macho world of meat, go first-class here. 6600 Snider Plaza, 214-987-9188.$.

Red Hot & Blue. A place to pig out-literally. RHB specializes in pulled pork and dry ribs- that is, Souihem-styte, as opposed to Texas-style, barbecue. It’s all good, though there are gimmicky touches like the fried onion loaf. The “blues” are on the walls, in the form of concert posters, and in your ears. Friendly waitstaff. 9810 N. Central Expwy., 214-368-7427; 5017 W. Piano Pkwy., Ste. 100, Piano, 972-248-3866. $.

Sammy’s Barbecue. Barbecue for the banking crowd at bankers’ hours. Everyday at lunch, Sammy’s is full of white-collar types, ties thrown over their shoulders, chowing on great red-stripe brisket, ribs, and homemade Mom-style pie, No. really-Sammy’s is a family-run enterprise, and all the Pritchards pitch in. 2126 Leonard St.. 214-880-9064. $.

D BEST Sonny Bryan’s. For 4M years, Sonny Bryan’smeaty ribs, moist brisket, and classic barbecue sauce have been the standard by which all other Dallas barbecue is judged. For the classic barbecue experience, return to the original Inwood Road joint, sit on the hood of your car, and gnaw on tender smoked ribs, chopped beef, and giant onion rings. 2202 Inwood Rd., 214-357-7120; 302 N. Market St.. 214-744-1610; 325 N. St. Paul St. (in the tunnel), 214-979-0102; 4701 Frankford Rd., 972-447-0102; Macy’s, 3rd level, Galleria, 972-851-5131.$.

BAKERY/SANDWICHES



Cafe Express. Health-conscious, budget-friendly, and efficient is die goal at this amusingly designed self-service cafe. The healthy emphasis can be found in the salads, sandwiches, chicken, and pastas. But beware: There are a bevy of burgers and a bountiful display of desserts to tempt the weak. And the noise is daunting. 3230 McKinney Ave., 214-999-9444; 4101 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-991-9444; 5600 W. Lovers Lane, 214-352-2211. $.



Corner Bakery. Dallas has a number of excellent bakeries now, but the Comer Bakery holds its own. Country loaves are crusty, and the sweet stuff is all excellent. And the Bakery has a cafe side, serving pizza, tomato-sauced pasta, and sandwiches. 13350 N. Dallas Pkwy., Ste. 2443, 972-934-7001; 301 N. Market St., 214-651-8646; 2401 Preston Rd., Piano, 972-398-1955; 3000 Grapevine Mills Pkwy. Grapevine, 972-539-6400. $.



La Spiga. You may have to track down La Spiga. tucked away in a warehouse area, but it’s worth it-these rustic, crusty loaves of preservative-free bread are served at many of the best restaurants in town. But there’s plenty more being dished up here, including homemade soup, panini, quiches, pizza-style focaccia, and Caesar salads. 4203 Lindberg Dr., Addison, 972-934-8730. $.



Street’s Famous Sandwiches. We are impressed by the creative combos of meats, cheeses, and vegetables, and “Gene’s Favorite” is ours, too-grilled chicken and onions with melted provolone and spicy Dijon. Sides include a cheese tortellini salad with walnuts, Chinese sesame noodles, potato salad, and coleslaw. Don’t neglect the rum cake, either. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-2505. $.



BREW PUBS



Copper Tank Brewing Company. The beer may be microbrewed, but the setting is macro. This Austin import functions as a sports bar, watering hole, and restaurant. While the beer wins awards, the food also deserves some attention. Our favorite pretzel replacement: onion rings with a zesty apple-horseradish dipping sauce. 2600 Main St.. 214-744-2739. $.



Hubcap Brewery & Kitchen. The menu’s range of food is wider than the kitchen’s in this casual, cavernous West End brew pub. where bar food and steaks are a better choice than more innovative selections. Prices are modest, service is fast, and the main draw-the Colorado-rooted pub’s own house brews-is outstanding enough to command a following. 1701 N. Market St., Ste. 130, 214-651-0808. $-$$.



The Hock Bottom Brewery. Generous appetizers could make their own meal, especially the asia-go cheese dip or signature green pork chili. Six regular brews range from ultra-light (Coyote Western Ale and Palomino Pale Ale) to deep and roasty (Pelican Brown Ale and our fave, Roadrunner Stout). 4050 Belt Line Rd.. Addison, 972-404-7456. $$.

Routh Street Brewery and Grill. Although the food has slipped a little, the hand-crafted brew remains some of the finest in Dallas, and an elegant hill country lodge motif with soft lighting makes it a sexy spot for a beer joint. Shy away from the wienerschnitzel; roasted pork tenderloin fares better. 3011 Routh St., 214-922-8835. $$.

Yegua Creek Brewing Co. This home-grown brew pub continues to brew stellar suds, but its menu strays from the burger/pizza path into less-traveled Southwest byways with mixed success. 2920 N. Henderson Ave., 214-824-BREW. $$.

BURGERS

Angry Dog. The menu is standard bar cuisine, including some great burgers, nachos, and sandwiches, but it extends to include some inspiring options. The Angry Dog-a grilled, all-beef hot dog split and served open-faced covered with grilled onions, chili, and cheese-is truly fantastic and a bargain at $4.50. For serious beer drinkers, there are 120 beers to choose from. 2726 Commerce St., 214-741-4406. $.

D REVISITS Balls Hamburgers. In the big league burger-world. Ball s is still a minor league player. Nothing really stands out here-the burgers are big, weighing in at a half-pound, but the flavor was only average and the “Ace Sandwich” was a pitifully thin, tough piece of chicken lost in a mound of lettuce and tomatoes. Fried jalapenos went straight from the freezer to the fryer, and the fries and onion rings were uninspired. However, the junk food connoisseur in our group gobbled two orders of the silver-dollar sized burgers with grilled onions and pickles and moaned at the memories of Krystals and White Castle. And a humble hot dog saved the meal-smothered in chili, cheese, and chopped onions, it upgraded ballpark fare to a major league meal. 3404 Rankin (Snider Plaza), 214-373-1717; 4343 W. Northwest Hwy., 214-352-2525. $.

Chip’s Old-Fashioned Hamburgers. Perhaps Dallas’ best rendition of the all-American hamburger is served at Chip’s. Both locations have an atmosphere as wholesome as a Beach Boys song, and the food is fast and fresh, too. A return to a time of innocence, when a good lime could be fueled by nothing more than fries and a shake. The skinny onion rings, rich pig sandwich, and hot dogs are just lagniappe. 4501 Cole Ave., 214-526-1092; 4530 Lovers Ln., 214-691-2447.$.

D REVISITS The Prince of Hamburgers. We decided this was the best hamburger we’ve had all year. It just could have been the old-fashioned pleasure of eating in the car after swimming that made our Prince burger taste so good, but we like to think we’re professional enough to separate nostalgia from our gastronomical judgment. The crispy-edged. toasty bun, the slim but beefy-tasting, just-cooked patty, and the simple but fresh garnitures combined to make the quintessential American sandwich, a sandwich that’s been altered with torturous ingenuity by other restaurants. Prince sticks to the classic proportions, the classic accompaniments: thick shakes, incredibly frosty root beer, fries, and fabulous onion rings, all brought to you by a real live person. Prince is still king. 5200 Lemmon Ave., 214-526-9081. $.

Puff’s The Hickory Grill. Servers tend to be the ’90s version of the ’50s soda jerk-baggy-jeaned teens with good intentions and no grace. But the burgers, built from half a pound of chuck, grilled and smoked over hickory, on a special. Massimo-baked bun. are good and the options are. loo: cheese, bacon-mushroom, and a welcome revival of the old Goff’s hickory-sauced sandwich, livened up with jalapenos. 6112 Luther Lane, Preston Center, 214-361-6191. $.

Snuffer’s. The burgers and frosty brew are a sensory way-back machine for those who thought the university years were the prime of their life. They probably were, if you continue to eat things like Snuffer’s cheese fries (a basket of deep-fried strips, covered in gloriously greasy cheese), because you can’t last long if you eat this way often. 3526 Greenville Ave., 214-826-6850; 14910 Midway Rd.. Addison. 972-991-8811.$.

Stoneleigh P. Everyone smuggles in ketchup because the place proudly and oddly refuses to serve it, But even the contraband ketchup can’t help the boring, meatless garden burger, and the homemade potato chips are not as good as Zapp’s out of the bag. The best thing about the Stoneleigh’s rancho deluxe burger, served on an equally crumbly “rustica” bun, was the chipotle mayonnaise. Maybe that explains the condiment ban. 2926 Maple Ave., 214-871-2346.$.



Texas Hamburgers. This Texas kitsch joint is filled with stuffed armadillos, Texas flags, cowboy memorabilia, good ol’ boys, and Armani-clad Design Center sophisticates. Besides great half- and third-pound burgers accompanied by fresh fixings, this place serves some great meatloaf with a tasty tomato sauce laden with celery, onions, and peppers. 1616 Market Center Blvd.. 214-747-2222. S.

CAJUN/CREOLE



Copeland’s of New Orleans. Cajun staples are complemented by an array of more creative appetizers and entrées. The blackened redfish is nicely done if a bit tame. What’s more, every staff member from the manager on down is friendly and polite. 5353 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-661-1883. $$.



Crescent City Cafe. Crescent City still dishes out solid New Orleans chow in authentic French Quarter surroundings. Though the fried food can be spotty, the gumbo’s rich and the po’ boys are consistently good. 2615 Commerce St.’, 214-745-1900. $.



Klargaux’s. Cafe Margaux owner Kay Agnew has reopened yet again, in a smaller space wearing a suitably shorter name and with a menu that includes lunch on weekdays and dinner on Thursday only. Shrimp and sausage gumbo is the real thing, and cornmeal-crusted oysters are crisp-skinned delights. 2404 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-740-1985. $$.

CHINESE

Arc-En-Ciel. The kitchen employs separate cooks for the Chinese and Vietnamese fare, but everyone really goes there to eat Vietnamese. Our last meal we ordered in a leisurely way. a few dishes at a time-pristine Imperial rolls; shrimp pounded and molded on sugarcane; grilled pork to roll in rice paper with rice noodles, cilantro, mint, lettuce, and sprouts-each dish delightful, fresh, excellent. 3555 W. Walnut St.. Garland, 972-272-2188. $-$$.

Cafe Panda. The personnel here roll out the red carpet, and the mostly excellent food reflects a meticulous attention to detail, performing some service rituals as complex as the cuisine. Start with quail curl and watch as a team of servers performs a near-ballet in bringing it to your table. And finish with tableside French-pressed coffee. 7979 Inwood Rd., Ste. 121, 214-902-9500. $-$$.

Cathy’s Pacific. Chef/nutritionist Cathy Liu continues to succeed in combining authentic Chinese, Thai, and Vietnamese techniques with healthy twists. The best dish we tried was the Szechuan Shrimp: fresh shrimp stir-fried with com, sweet peppers, and onions lightly coated in a black bean sauce. The dishes we ordered “extra hot” were not. so if you like your food scorching, ask the kitchen to crank it up. 5950-A Royal Lane at Preston, 214-739-3378. $$.

Jasmine. Ersatz nightclub ambience collides with hustle-bustle service, but freshly prepared cuisine fortunately transcends both. Exquisite Ming chicken, redolent with spices and served in a crispy cold iceberg lettuce shell, was almost a meal in itself. 4002 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-991-6867.$$.

May Dragon. An inscrutable strip center location belies one of the city’s best Chinese restaurants. Just stay away from the neon sweet and sour stuff, and you’ll be happy. Try a duck instead. 4848 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-392-9998. $$.

Mew Big Wong. Large lunches are served here in fast-food time, but a leisurely dinner rewards experimentation. The menu is large, and largely authentic, serving a wide variety of wiggly sea creatures. The setting is plain and the service friendly. 2121 S. Greenville Ave., 214-821-4198.$.

Royal China. Royal China serves the same neighborhood clientele that has been faithfully eating here since Buck Kao and his family opened the place in 1974. Appetizers are still in peak performance-our meal began with a wonderful hot and sour soup and perfectly steamed pan-fried pork dumpling. But the General’s Chicken looked and tasted like Chicken McNuggets in a sweet orange sauce, and the moo shu pork tasted like a Taco Bell Gordita. 201 Preston Royal Center, 214-361-1771,$$.

Szechuan Pavilion. One of the lop Chinese restaurants in a city with far too few to choose from. Service here is smooth and the usual Szechuan specialties are good. Pot stickers filled with juicy pork and a whole crispy fish are worth waiting for. 8409 Preston Rd., 214-368-4303. $$.

Taiwan Restaurant. One of the big-time Chinese restaurants in Dallas, Taiwan only stumbles when it’s too sure of itself. The upstairs dining rooms overlook a parking lot, so focus on the tableside view, instead-plates are garnished with surreally carved vegetables. Lunch specials are a steal. 4980 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 200, Addison, 972-387-2333. $-$$.

Uncle Chow. The menu might be small, but the flavor’s all there, especially if you start with the pan-fried chicken dumplings, jam-packed with tender white meat. 19021 Midway Rd., 972-306-CHOW. $.

Undo Tais Hunan Yuan. Not much has changed here over the last 15 years. Bow-tie clad waiters still formally dish out classic hot Hunan specialties tableside. Past favorites still shine: Crispy Beef with broccoli sizzling in spicy orange sauce and Uncle Tai’s Chicken flamed with jalapenos lightly coated with black bean sauce served on a bed of slightly wilted watercress. In the Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. at LBJ, 972-934-9998.$$.

COFFEEHOUSES



Cafe Society. Dallas’ most authentic coffeehouse not only roasts its own beans but offers a comfortable but hip environment for serious discussion, flirtation, hanging out, listening to music, and feeling generally plugged-in and with it. 209 Henry Si., 214-745-1964. $.



Cafe Brazil “Brazil” here is a coffee cue. but this cafe is not just another Java joint. The brews are varied and the laid-back attitude of ail three locations make them comfortable chat rooms, but the food is better than it has to be. Breakfasts are particularly notable. 6420 N. Central Expwy., 214-691-7791; 2221 Abrams Rd., 214-826-9522; 2815 Elm St.. 214-747-2730. $.



Cosmic Cup. The counterculture’s barely made a dent in the Dallas psyche, a fact that makes Cosmic Cup almost a tourist attraction here. In other cities, there are whole neighborhoods lined with places like this. Most of the food is India-inspired, which makes vegetarian an easy philosophy-samosas. dal, curry. Good, and good for the soul. 2912 Oak Lawn Ave.,214-521-6157.$.



DELI



Deli News. While upscale restaurants have come and gone in Crescent Court’s elite environs, this plainly authentic deli has continued to demonstrate that you don’t have to be from New York to know the Real Thing when you taste it. Hot cabbage borscht, potato pancakes, and rye-wrapped pastrami are all wonderful. 500 Crescent Court, Maple Ave. at Cedar Springs Rd., 214-922-3354. $-$$.



Gilbert’s. All you Yankees pining for the comforts of the Carnegie Deli, stop whining. The Gilbert family enters their 11th year of dishing out potato knishes, stuffed derma, and kasha varnishkas as good as any in the Big Apple. They also have a decent plate of spaghetti and meatballs for the shiksa in your group, 11661 Preston Rd., 214-373-3333.$.



EASTERN EUROPEAN



Athénée Cafe. Dallas’ only Rumanian restaurant-are you surprised? Stuffed mountain cabbage is a fabulous signature dish-meatball-size beef rolls oven-roasted in delicate cabbage leaves with a red wine sauce, just like grandma in Transylvania used to make. Other highlights: Rumanian sausage and veal chop. The wine list is adequate. 5365 Spring Valley Rd., Ste. 150, 972-239-8060. $$.



ECLECTIC



D BEST Bistro A. Peripatetic chef Avner Samuel’s latest venture is his best yet, and better yet, Bistro A looks like it’s going to be around awhile. It’s made sleepy Snider Plaza a destination, drawing well-heeled diners in for stylish fare that’s beautifully presented. Dishes with Middle Eastern influences are especially good, but the chef does equally well with simple steak fries, and casserole-roasted chicken could be the best bird in town. 6815 Snider Plaza, 214-373-9911. $$-$$$.



Bread Winners. One of the prettiest, most atmospheric Old South settings anywhere in Dallas, this Uptown eatery is a favorite for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner (Wednesday through Sunday). Big triangles of grilled polenta lavished in fresh marinara make a main-dish starter; a single wedge of strawberry chocolate torte serves two. 3301 McKinney Ave., 214-754-4940. $-$$.



The Brick Room. Tables on tiers raked amphiteater-style give live jazz lovers a fine view of the bandstand in this suave food-and-jazz emporium that’s brought a new night-life dimension to Lowest Skillman. Steaks and seafood are main menu draws; pleasant service and a well-tuned bar keep the all-aged faithful happy between sets. 1925 Skillman St., 214-823-2725. $$



Deep Ellum Cafe. The first legitimate restaurant in Deep Ellum has a lot of competition now. and though this is still one of the most pleasant places to be in downtown, sometimes the food is not so pleasant. The kitchen seems bored with the standards like chicken and dill dumplings and Vietnamese chicken salad; specials are a better bet. Sit outside if you can. 2704 Elm St., 214-741-9012. $-$$.



Doolittle’s. Make of it what you will, this slick combination restaurant/bar offers a buffet of menu and music styles ranging from chicken and dumplings to martinis, modern jazz to Jimmy Buffet. There is a little something for everyone here-cigars, single malts, boutique beers, home cooking, burgers, and New American. 5290 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 50, Addison, 972-991-2030. $$.



Dream Cafe. This Quadrangle eatery’s pastoral-in-city setting seems particularly appropriate for the Dream Cafe’s menu, though there are those who insist that “dream” refers to the often seemingly somnolent service. The famed breakfast menu remains an intriguing blend; solid egg dishes to entice the power-breakfast crowd and granola for those who want to start the day on a more spiritual, healthful note. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St.. 214-954-0486. $$.



East Side Grill. East Side is attached at the hip- er, hep, rather-to the Barley House bar, and the bar food-nachos. quesadillas–fulfills it purpose with little fanfare. Entrees vary, but the jalapeno honey barbecue chicken is spicy, sloppy, and tasty, accompanied by scrumptious mashed potatoes and vegetables drowned in soy. The chicken-fried steak is humbly good. 2916 N. Henderson Ave., 214-828-2801. $.



8.0 Restaurant and Bar. This hip joint is still hopping with pretty people sipping blue mar-garitas and noshing upscale bar food like thick,

8-ounce burgers and chicken nachos. Lines are out the door at lunch and cocktail hour in the summer, and the patio is swarming with guys and girls cruising for girls and guys. Blaring music makes table conversation nearly impossible. but mural-covered walls painted by local artists make it a funky place to sit back and watch the show. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., 214-979-0880. $-$$.

Firehouse. Chef Bruno Mello has made a three-ring circus by juggling his time in the Firehouse kitchen with time at his downtown restaurant. Champagne. As a result, the food here has slipped. The Sicilian Flrehouse chicken is a fire-eaters dream when it’s not drowning in habanero sauce. Great appetizers include a whole roasted onion filled with spicy garlic and eggplant dip. 1928 Greenville Ave., 214-826-2468. $$-$$$.

Going Gourmet. This place is a delicious blend of French bistro and neighborhood favorite: small, intimate, humming with conversation. The food’s a creative melange of Continental, Mediterranean, and New American influences, and the wine you bring yourself. Call for reservations-this tiny space is packed on any given evening. 4345 W. Northwest Hwy. at Midway Road. 214-350-6135. $$-$$$.

D BEST The Grape. The secret is that Dallas’ oldest and best wine bar is really one of its oldest and best restaurants- dim and atmospheric, with a blackboard menu that remains interesting and enticing (no matter how often the chef changes), and the tiniest, most romantic bar in town. 2808 Greenville Ave., 214-828-1981.$$.

D BEST The Green Room. This ’90s bistro BJMi4B continues to dish oui some of the most inventive cuisine to be found between New York and L.A. The menu is eclectically uptown, and the decor is strictly downtown rock ’n’ roll. The contrast between them is cool. At $34. the fixed-price, four-course, “Feed Me” menu is the best deal in town. 2715 Elm St., 214-748-ROOM. $$.

Mark’s on Henderson. Chef-owner Mark Jenson is an avowed one-man show in his intimate 13-table bistro. Lately we have found his food starving for attention. But when he’s in the kitchen and delegates the other restaurant responsibilities to his pleasant staff, the eclectic entrees that change daily-like sea bass and risotto-always shine. Browse the cellar and choose a bottle, or sample international wines by the glass. 2926 Henderson Ave., 214-841-0900. $$.

Mel Hollens Bar and Fine Dining. Mel Hollen, who has designed and opened a number of well-loved Dallas eateries, finally has opened a place of his own, featuring his slightly dated classics like baked oysters “Bingo”-six tasty Blue Points on the half-shell over a bed of creamed spinach, shallots, bread crumbs, and Parmesan cheese. 15175 Quorum Or., Addison, 972-233-6357. $$-$$$.

Piano Cafe. A feast of vegetables accompanies each meal at this suburban bistro, and most people leave with leftovers. Freshly grilled roast chicken with red pesto penne draws loyal fans. There’s a decent wine list and a winner of a dessert list. 1915 N, Central Expwy., Ste. 500. Piano. 972-516-0865. $$.

D REVISITS Simply Fondue. It’s one of the oddest, most unlikely concepts to succeed in Dallas. Imagine a cozy restaurant where you huddle over a warm flame, slowly cooking your own dinner. Now think of this past August. Fondue is a snow-inspired cuisine, and we think it should have stayed in the mountains. (First Coors, now fondue-what else can be inflicted on us from the heights?) But in fact there are two fondue restaurants in Dallas. And the original, on Greenville Avenue, still crowds them in. even when the temperature is hovering at 100. It’s all a schtick-you choose what kind of cheese (American or Swiss} for your first stick-and-dip course, and the waiter does a cooking show for you tableside, mixing white wine, cheese, and a tittle mustard in the fondue pot. setting out chunks of slightly stale bread and tasteless apple slices for dipping. For the main course you can choose to cook in hot oil or hot broth; for dessert it’s dark or milk chocolate. Lots of people seem to think this is fun, but it seems like an awful lot of work for a meal you’re paying someone else to cook. And not so simple. Simply Fondue, 2108 Greenville Ave., 214-827-8878.$$$.

Sipango. The Cal-ltal menu offers selections various enough to allow for grazing as well as course-by-course dining at this currently cool cafe-cum-nightspot. Service is overly amiable, with some timing lapses. Once the too-loud cocktail pianist makes way for a combo, conversation is possible and people-watching is its own entertainment. 4513 Travis St.. 214-522-2411.$$.

St Pete’s Dancing Marlin. The marlin doesn’t mean seafood, it’s just a clue that the owner likes to fish. The only seafood here is the dancing tuna sandwich; mostly, the food is simply designed to go with your beer. Beware the Diablo Tempestuous, pasta doused in fiery jalapeno-tomato sauce. It’s so hot it comes with a chaser of chocolate milk. 2730 Commerce St, 214-698-1511.$.

D BEDST Tarantino’s. The overall ambi-ence-a dark. New York cafeshaped space dominated by a long bar-is best at night, when the slight scruffiness is hidden by dim light and the place looks avant instead of under-financed. The food goes back to the basics of Italian and Spanish cuisine, served tapas-style. The take on traditional osso buco, based on a rich, gamy lamb shank instead of veal, is food you lust after. 3611 Parry Ave., 214-821-2224. Dinner only. $$.

The Thomas Avenue Beverage Company. Chef Michael Smith serves a healthy mix of Southwest, Cajun, and New American cuisine at this old-style pub in Uptown. The roast pork chop with spinach sauteed with apple butter literally melts off the bone. The menu changes weekly, based on availability of fresh ingredients. 2901 Thomas Ave., 214-979-0452, $-$$.

Yvette. The menu here suits the Cadillac setting-dark wood, etched glass, and red velvet curtains. Over-the-top Yvette, partowned by Cowboys owner Jerry Jones and Barry Switzer, does score some absolute touchdowns, like a perfect Caesar salad and a Dover sole so tender it’s gone before you have time to appreciate it 14775 Midway Rd., Addison, 972-503-9777. $$-$$$.



Addison Cafe. It’s called “Le French Bistro,” but in reality, Addison Cafe is a restaurant serving classically prepared French and New American dishes, which has kept them in business for 14 years. Tournedos of beef are cooked medium-rare and served in a textbook bordelaise sauce. A thick slab of fennel-crusted sea bass seasoned with kalamata olives is poached to perfection. And dark chocolate mousse is worth every hip-hugging calorie. 5290 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 108 at Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-991-8824. $$.



D BEST Barclays. Don’t come to Barclays expecting to find a pint of bitters and bangers and mash. This is upper-crust English fare with a European twist. Potato ravioli stuffed with Stilton cheese and wild mushrooms is of regal status. And if you’re looking for that perfect place to “pop” the question or celebrate something special, look no further- this place is a gem. 2917 Fairmount St.. 214-855-0700. $$-$$$.



Chez Gerard. Which is more to be celebrated. French thrift or French style? Skin-thin petals of veal liver, sautéed with onions and grapes in port wine sauce, become the gourmand’s liver and onions-or is it the peasant’s foie gras? Whatever. 4444 McKinney Ave., 214-522-6865. $$-$$$.



Clair De Lune. Tucked behind some trees in the comer of a small strip of shops in Preston Royal, this cozy French country restaurant delights with delicious food and impeccable service. A classic house-made pork paté is served with diced onion, French cornichons, and mustard. Poitrine de canard, a splendidly moist duck breast, is served with a delicate port ; wine sauce. 5934 Royal Ln. at Preston Road. 214-987-2028.$$.



French Room. This is the prettiest dining room in Dallas. The rococo-style, cherub-flown ceiling, Versailles-length drapes, and candlelight make it the kind of place that doesn’t mesh with the modern world. It’s only natural to expect perfect food that matches the fairy-tale room. Sweetbread schnitzel is perfect, placed on a bed of asparagus ragout. Lamb ribeye is precisely matched with rosemary goat cheese polenta and tomato confit with basil, combining every Mediterranean high note in a single dish. Hotel Adolphus, 1321 Commerce St., 214-742-8200.$$$.



Jennivine. Jennivine’s slightly anachronistic atmosphere, a quaint old house stranded in the massive new Uptown apartments, still delivers one of Dallas* most unexpected dining experiences: fine food in line surroundings at a fair price. Appetizers and entrées alike are first-rate. If you’re not up for one of the excellent meals, enjoy a glass of wine and a sampling of cheese or one of their many patés. 3605 McKinney Ave., 214-528-6010.$$.



D BEST L’Ancestral. Let L’Ancestral remind you of traditional delights: The civilized dining room is softly lit. tables are draped in starchy white, and the menu is stubbornly, traditionally French. Begin your meal with a bowl of onion soup, about as recherché as you could get, but some ideas need no improvement. The onion tart is just as subtly good. Lamb is cooked perfectly medium rare, and steak au poivre comes with the the best, yes, French fries in town. 4514 Travis St.. 214-528-1081.$$-$$$.



La Mirabelle. Thoroughly retro not only in its ambience, which stresses traditional comfort, and in its food, which is precisely and personally prepared French, but also in its service, which actually claims to coddle the customer. Enjoy reading the menu, but don’t order a thing until you hear the specials of the day. That’s where the treasures are. 17610 Midway Rd., 972-733-0202. $$-$$$.



Lavendou. Despite the fact that our waiter didn’t know the difference between smooth and coarse pate, someone in the kitchen cooks with a French accent. Delicious French specialties come garnished a la Francaise within an inch of their life: For instance, a tender tilapia came tucked into a tutu-like frill of purple kale, dec: orated with two swishes and a swirl of orange red-pepper sauce. 19009 Preston Rd., 972-248-1911.$$-$$$.



Old Warsaw. Hanging on to a reputation as one of Dallas’ oldest elite restaurants is tough busi-ness, but La Vieille Varsovie is valiant. It takes effort to find much fault with the fancy food- from appetizers to dessert, the meal is an anachronistic treat. Servers, however, are only acceptably pleasant. 2610 Maple Ave., 214-528-0032.$$$.



D BEST The Pyramid Room. Thai overused word, opulence, must be hauled ; out again-the Fairmont Hotel’s flagship restaurant demands it. Here is service and ambience that beggar less extravagant description. The food, too, deserves superlatives. You can hardly ask for more cosseting at any price than that provided by this serenely cosmopolitan restaurant. Fairmont Hotel, 17 ! 7 N. Akard St., 214-720-5249. $$$.



St Martin’s. Rich paneling, soft-lit paintings, and touches of muted gold update the famous romantic setting; live music shapes the proper evening mood; and the food delivers sophisticated fulfillment. The by-the-glass wine selection is broad, and service strikes the correct balance between attention and discretion. 3020 Greenville Ave., 214-826-0940. $$.



Tramontana. This cozy little dining room has charming murals on the walls and an inviting-looking bar. but service and food vary. Some high points: The steak is perfectly good-flavorful red meat with a simple emphatic wine reduction-and the salad is a mix of lovely, flowerlike greens with pungent, mouth-cleaning flavors. 8220B Westchester Dr.. 214-368-4188.$$.



Watel’s. Sure, you’ll find weird organ meats like calves’ brains doctored with capers and veal kidneys touched with mushrooms to satisfy the strand of old-world gastronomic esoterica that quivers in your palate. But you’ll also find exquisite contrasts like delicate rare tuna coated with crunchy peppercorns and tightly structured grilled shrimp with red pepper coulis- : all served in a crisp, clean space. 2719 McKinney Ave., 214-720-0323. $$.



GOURMET TO GO



Bon Vivant Market. Longtime Dallas chef Dan O’Leary is the food mind behind this all-purpose market. Bon Vivant has plenty of room to navigate a basket around the central island filled with prepared meals (veal meatloaf, lasagna), past the bakery (crusty Euro-country loaves), to the grill area (juicy chicken skewers) and sandwich bar. Plus, there’s a real wine department and tables for eating in. 1801 Preston Rd., Piano, 972-818-1177. $-$$.



City Cafe To Go. Does anybody cook from scratch anymore? According to the friendly servers at City Cafe To Go, most people don’t even know how to use a regular oven to reheat the pre-cooked food they buy there. They all want microwave instructions. But for those of you who can handle 350 degrees for 20 minutes, most of the dishes (for instance, a thickly sliced rare leg of lamb with charred, sun-dried tomatoes) are tasty arid reheat beautifully. We love the apple pizza: a thick slice of thinly sliced apples layered with sugar and cinnamon covered with two inches of nut-laden crumble topping. 5757 Lovers Lane, 214-351-3366. $-$$



City Harvest. This neighborhood favorite is open every day and-even on weekdays- serves real morning food. Downtowners take note: Oak Cliff is easy for lunch (buy a bag of Zapp’s chips and a triple chocolate chunk cookie to go with the pesto chicken salad deluxe sandwich), and you can pick up dinner to go while you eat. 939 N. Edgefield Ave., 214-943-2650.$-$$.



Eatzi’s. Eatzi’s definitely lives up to its circus hype. Hear the strains of opera and waltz through the crowds collecting the already cooked makings of a gourmet dinner-down to the imported beer, fresh bread, and flowers. Or choose salads or sandwiches made to order. Checkout lines are infamously long. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-526-1515. $-$$.



Izmir Deli. Dallas’ new fascination with Middle Eastern food means there have been long lines at Cafe Izmir since it opened. You can avoid those crowds now by ordering in from the Izmir to go, just down Greenville from the original cafe. Gyros, tenderloin, mozzarella, grilled vegetable, and chicken sandwiches, pita, hummus, couscous, and eggplant dip are all available for pick-up or phone-in orders. 3607 Greenville Ave., 214-824-8484.$-$$.



Marty’s Cafe TuGogh. Marty’s latest version of its ; wine bar has changed everything but the name, And the food-there was never a problem with that. At night, when the blond, light-filled Cafe TuGogh features full table service, it’s on its way to becoming one of the best little bistros in town, . 3316 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-4070. $-$$.



Sigel’s Fresh Market. Besides the stellar cheese counter, dozens of kinds of imported pasta. great selection of olive oils, and other gourmet comestibles, the little deli adjoining Sigel’s liquor store sells perhaps the best roast chicken to go in town. And it’s a deal, too. 15003 Inwood Rd., 972-387-9804. $.



GREEK



KostasCafe. The food is simply Greek and sim-ply good. Appetizer do’s: saganaki and dolmas (musts, really), Entrée don’t: souvlaki (tough and chewy). 4914 Greenville Ave., 214-987-3225. $$.



D BEST Ziziki’s. You can hardly get a prime-time table at this contem-porary Greek cafe, and they don’t take reserva-tions, except for large parties. But the herbed lamb souvlaki. folded in thick warm pita and sauced with tart yogurt, is worth a wait. Ziziki’s menu has featured the same idiosyncratic version of Mediterranean food since it opened-it’s a good thing when some things don’t change, 4514 Travis St., Ste. 122,214-521-2233.$$.



HOME COOKING



Barbec’s. Barbec’s regulars love the tabloid newsprint menu, the hearty, what-canget-you-Hon? waitresses, the awesome anytime breakfasts. The food ranges from pretty good to good, but it’s all cheap. And they’ve always got those legendary beer biscuits, sweet and high and truly loved by all. Great meringues. 8949 Garland Rd., 214-321-5597. $.



Casa Linda Cafeteria. The hairnet is alive in Casa Linda, behind the virtually endless counter at this culinary heir to the Highland Park Cafeteria. We are always amazed at the quantity of food selections here-a dozen salads. 30 entrées (even though too many of them are geriatrically under-seasoned), 20 sides, 10 types of bread, a dozen desserts. There’s a to-go section full of salads, soups, etc. 300 Casa Linda Plaza; 214-324-5000. $.



Celebration. Bring your appetite to this longtime mecca for Dallas home-cooking purists. Entrées run the gamut from broiled fresh fish to pot roast to fried chicken, all accompanied by an endless supply of vegetables. Don’t worry if your entrée seems small-you can reorder as often as you wish. 4503 W. Lovers Ln., 214-351-5681.$.

DC’s Cafe. You’ve been in powder rooms bigger than this super-clean little place, but you’ve had home cooking ibis fine only in your dreams of classic soul-food plate lunches at penny-ante prices. Pork chops, meatloaf, catfish et al. come with three sides; business is about half-and-half eat-in and takeout, and we’ve never seen the room empty of patrons. 8224 Park La, 214-363^348. $.

Poor Richard’s Cafe. Honest home-cooked food, featuring a huge spread of the one meal Mom told you never to leave home without-breakfast. 2442 Ave. K at Pari; Boulevard, Piano, 972-423-1524.$.

INDIAN

D BEST Bombay Cricket Club. Lunch buf-fets are an Indian restaurant tradition, and Bombay Cricket Club’s lineup is excellent. A pretty setting, unfailingly polite service, and excellent food make this one of the top Indian restaurants in town. The quality is steady at lunch, which for some restaurants seems to be a time not to try very hard. 2508 Maple Ave., 214-871-1333. $-$$.

India Palace. Delicate spices imbue truly fine Indian cuisine. And, similar to a fine perfume. too much is an assault on the senses, too tittle and there’s no magic. India Palace has kept the proper balance for nearly a decade and shows no signs of slowing down. 12817 Preston Rd., Ste. 105,972-392-0190.$-$$.

ITALIAN

Alassio’s. Graze on complimentary bruschetta and fresh vegetables while reviewing the pricey menu and a difficult-to-read chalkboard describing the even pricier evening specials. This is a Dallas favorite, especially for romantics, but we’re not in love with the value because inconsistency mars the food. 4117 Lomo Alto Dr., 214-521-3585. $$-$$$.

Alfonso’s. The menu touches on all the basics, and the house marinara and buttery rolls have held a rapt following for years. An appetizer of artichoke hearts gently warmed in lemon-butter is simply transporting. Luke Highland Village, 718 N. Buckner Blvd. at Northcliff Dr., 214-217-7777.$.

Alfredo Trattoria. We know loyal customers who drive across town to eat here, and regulars rave about the tortellini with ham and cream sauce. but this restaurant hasn’t inspired our loyalty. We wouldn’t drive across the street for the strings of rubbery calamari washed with a watery marinara sauce that started our meal. Surprisingly, though, a special of soft shell crab and scampi was superb. The pink and blue flowery surroundings reminded us more of Baby Gap man an Italian restaurant. 5404 Lemmon Avenue, 214-526-3331. $$.

Anita’s Italian Crin. When you think of classic Italian favorites, what triggers your Pavlovian response? Lasagna? Spaghetti? Scampi? Chicken parmesan? Pizza? This homey place has it all. Each meal comes with a Caesar salad and out-of-the-oven garlic rolls. The wine list is extensive, even by the glass. 6341 La Vista Dr., 214-823-5566.$.



D REVISTS Arcodoro. They don’t really mean for you to eat here. At least, that’s the only way we can figure it. We dropped in for what we’d pictured as a simple, modem Italian dinner in a lively place and left feeling like we’d forced the kitchen to fix us a meal. Because Arcodoro is more than lively, it’s mayhem-the bar is loud and crowded, and if you want to pick up pizza instead of people, you’re an anomaly here. It’s too bad, because once we were finally served, by a waiter who kept forgetting we were there, the food was quite good. Salads of assorted frilly, crisp, and bitter greens were nicely dressed; the pizzas, thin, with big bubbling brown crusts, were like comparing couture to Kmart when you’re used to Domino’s. And the special, a pork chop with sage, was good, too. The only problem is, the prices seem steep for bar food. And that’s what Arcodoro feels like. 2520 Cedar Springs, 214-871-1924. $$-$$$.



Campisi’s Egyptian. It’s dark, outdated, and frankly, a dump. The food is predictable and mostly pedestrian, except the famous pizza. But all an institution has to du in order to succeed is endure. Dallas loves Campisi’s and has for decades. Cash or check only. 5610 E. Mockingbird Ln., 214-827-0355. $.



lano’s. The menu is priced per portion and per “la familia.” And it’s thoroughly Italian in that a “la familia” platter is plenty for a family. including parents, several children, grandparents. Vitello Pugliese, for example, is thickly breaded slices of veal, smothered in tomato sauce allegedly enriched with goat cheese and loaded with purple kalamata olives. 250 Spanish Village, 972-866-0888. $$.



Isola Gozo. The parking lot just doesn’t help me ambience. But the best you could hope for from a restaurant in NorthPark is some retail compatibility. Thin-crusted pizza is always the star-a perfectly proportioned layering of bread and topping, just held together with cheese. The fare at Isola Gozo is sophisticated and good and deserves a better setting. The Market. NorthPark Center. Park Lane at Central Expressway, 214-691-0488. $$.



La Dolce Vita. Lakewood’s favorite wood-burning oven is as comfortable a place for pizza and wine as it is for pastry and coffee. The high-ceilinged room with tail windows is a good place to linger if the crowds don’t push you out. Service is unpretentious and friendly; pizzas and pastas are good but not weird. 1924 Abrams Pkwy., 214-821-2608, $-$$.



D BEST Mi Piaci. Al all times, these hipper-than-hip rooms Lire filled with people who look like they just stepped off the fashion pages. The menu focuses on classic Tuscan cuisine, with homemade pasta, made-to-order risotto, and superb breads. You’ll always see waiters expertly deboning the tender Dover sole for savvy diners. Our only complaint; Trie noise level can gel pretty high. 14854 Montfort Dr., 972-934-8424. $$.

D BEST Modo Mio. Here is a “labor of love” restaurant that has overcome (he obstacle of doing business in an ugly strip mall by serving some of the best Italian food in town. Chef/owner Rino Brigliadori turns out deliciously plump gnocchi lightly coaled in tomato sauce, and his simple seafood specials are always perfectly prepared. 18352 Dallas Pkwy., Ste. 112, 972-671-MODO. $$.

Nicola’s. From its tony Tuscan al fresco decor to the woody perfume of grilled meats. Nicola’s exhibits stylishness beyond typical mall restaurants. For a light meal, glass of wine, and an unsurpassed view of Dallnsites doing what they do best-shopping-Nicola’s is the best. In the Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy, at LBJ. 972-788-1177.$$.

Pomodoro. The white-tiled walls and floors and odd faucet-like lighting of this trendy dining spot give this Cedar Springs mainstay shower-like appeal. But this doesn’t take away from the charm of the little garlic trees that sit in the windows or the fresh flowers that grace each table. As for the food. Pomodoro deserves applause for consistent innovation. 2520 Cedar Springs Rd? 214-871-1924. $$.

Ruggeri’s. It could be that success at its newer Addison spinoff has cost the Uptown original its reputation for dependably line Italian dining. The formerly flawless food has been less consistent lately: The veal chop was huge and tender, but zabaglione was not too much more than froth. The crowd is festive as always. 2911 Routh St. 214-871-7377; 5348 Bell Line Rd. 972-726-9555. $$-$$$.

Term’s. A Lower Greenville fixture, Terilli’s packs in a semi-sophisticated crowd for such-as-it-is jazz and an eclectic menu featuring the signature item with the silly name: “Italcho’s” (crisp chips of pizza dough topped with moz-zarella and a choice of toppings). Food ranges from pretty good to so-so, but devotees find mat Terilli’s is more than the sum of its parts. 2815 Greenville Ave., 214-827-3993. $$.

Toscana. You’ll gladly pay top dollar for Executive Chef David Holben’s fancy versions of Tuscan-based dishes. Appetizers alone are worth the visit: Pan-seared, lemon-thyme calamari is light and delicious, and lightly creamed grilled corn soup with toasted pine nuts is reminiscent of the hearty Tuscan soups of Florence, Indulge in tiramisu bread pudding with a Frangelico anglaise sauce. 4900 McKinney Ave., 214-521-2244. $$.

Vitto’s. Oak Cliff and Oak Lawn Vitto’s have the same minimalist interior-mirrors, sculptural iron screens, questionable art. and laminate tables. The menu attempts several ambitious dishes-including some veal preparations-but most people stick to the pasta and pizza, We like the “different” pizzas: one lopped with spinach. goat cheese, and red peppers: the other with garlic, spinach, bacon, and pepperoni. 3211 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-522-9955; 316 W. 7th St., 214-946-1212.$-$$.

JAPANESE

Chaya. Cold beer and warm, salted edamame-so much better than pretzels-will make you happy to start. Sushi is consistently good, even the beginner sushi rolls: Rich salmon skin centers contrast nicely with the very sticky rice. For non-sushi lovers, the skewers from the robata-yaki (grill) are good, especially the chicken chunks of moist thigh meat and cubes of succulent swordfish. 101 Preston Royal Shopping Center, 214-361-0220. $$.

Deep Sushi. Remember that American sushi is as much style as substance, and you’ll be happy here, There’s a lot of style, and even some good sushi, if you fish carefully. Watch out for the dragon lady roll, a combination of tuna, avocado, and rice flashed with incendiary wasabi. red pepper sauce, and Japanese yellow mustard wrapped in seaweed and sliced. 2624 Elm St., 214-651-1177.$$-$$$.

D BEST Nakamoto. Service tends to range from sublime to abrupt al this stylish, roomy Piano institution, but cuisine (tempura, sushi, and sashimi) remains uniformly excellent. 3309 N. Central Expwy. al Parker Road, Piano, 972-881 -0328. $$.



Rock & Roll Sushi. Rock ’n’ roll is here to stay, and obviously, so is sushi. Rock & Roll Sushi’s California concept is pail fish, part gimmick. Around the circular bar is a stream with a flotilla of lacquered boats bearing sushi. The things we like best are the least traditional, and ai lunch, the bento boxes are a good deal. 6109-B Berkshire Ln., 214-987-1966. $$-$$$.



Sushi on McKinney. One of the first sushi bars in Dallas E0 cash in on the ’80s notion that sushi is cool, Sushi on McKinney remains a popular stop for everything from introductory hand rolls to more esoteric Eastern concoctions. And, somehow, the scene here has stayed cool, even in the un-hip ’90s. 4502 McKinney Ave., 214-521-0969. $-$$.



Sushi at The Stoncleigh. Sedate for a sushi spot, with more of the civilized pace of the old hotel than the faster rhythms of a typical sushi bar. Still, the fish is fine. We especially like the special Stoneleigh sushi. 2917 Maple Ave., 214-871-7111. $$-$$$.



Sushi Sake. Sushi Sake is half-hidden in a Fleetwood Square strip that we’d call hard to find if SO many aficionados weren’t finding It, Many of them are admirers from chef-owner Takashi Soda’s former days as sushi chef of Nakamoto in Piano, and they find here a warmly upbeat ambience, willing attendance to every need, an arresting selection of sakes, hoi and cold-and of course, good food. 220 W. Campbell Rd.. 972-470-0722. $$.



D BEST Teppo. Our only yakitori bar is also one of the city’s most exciting sushi bars and a favorite weekend date destination as well. High-energy atmosphere, highly chic modem decor, anil high-quality food make this one of Dallas’ best Japanese restaurants, even though the menu is mostly skewers and sushi. Be sure to try the specials. 2014 Greenville Ave., 214-826-8989. $$-$$$.



LATIN AMERIAN



Fogo de Chao. A churrascaria in Addison with branches in Porto Alegre and Sao Paulo, Fogo de Chao serves traditional cookery from south-em Brazil, starting with the caipirinha fa little like a sweet margarita, with cachaca, a sugarcane liquor). Overwhelming abundance is the theme: A neverending parade of meat on long skewers is delivered by gaucho guys in amazing trousers and belts. Very exotic. 4300 Bell Line Rd., Addison. 972-503-7300. $$.



Gloria’s. Everyone’s favorite Oak Cliff restaurant has opened yet another branch, this time on already overloaded Greenville. There’s the inevitable streetside al fresco scene with margaritas and nachos on every table, but die glory of Gloria’s was, is now, and ever shall be its Sal-vadoran menu, available al every location. Don’t miss tire pupusas (cheese-sniffed com tortillas) or die banana leaf tamales. 3715 Greenville Ave., 214-874-0088. Lemmon Oak Cliff $-$$.



MEDITERRANEAN



Adelmo’s. Some go for (he food, some go for the intimacy, but almost everybody finds a reason to go back to this well-hidden gem. Service is unhurried and patient, and the wine list varied and reasonable. Entrées and appetizers alike feature creatively bold sauces that will hold your attention long after the main ingredients of the dishes had been devoured. 4537 Cole Ave., 214-559-0325. $$.



The Bistro. Don’t restrict dinner to a single starter, entree, and dessert. That option’s still on the menu at this quiet restaurant, but so is the opportunity to sample more than 30 hot and cold teasers of every Mediterranean sort. Don’t forget the daily specials. 5405 W. Lovers Ln. at Inwood Road, 214-352-1997. $-$$.



Mediterraneo. The Quadrangle location will probably be the pro-lolype fut future Mediierraneos. It’s a pretty restaurant, stylishly minimalist but surprisingly warm and welcoming, and the food-a balance of old and new ideas-is hard to find fault with. Crusts are all the rage: Halibut is mysteriously crab crusted, salmon has a polenta crust, and lamb is crusted with goat cheese. The Quadrangle, 2&00 Routh St., 214-979-0002: 18111 Preston Rial Frankford Road, Ste. 120. 972-447-0066. $$-$$$.



PoPoLo’s. Wins the popularly contest in its restaurant-free Preston Hollow neighborhood, though against stiffer competition, the menu might rate as many misses as hits. Choose from pastas, risottos, and hickory grilled meats with mix-and-match sauces. Wood-fired pizzas and breads (from the adjoining bakery) are usually excellent. 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 214-692-5497.$-$$.



D BEST The Riviera. We knew the moment an airy avocado cream hors d’oeuvre passed our lips that we were doomed, once again, to a near-flawless dining experience. Each dish seems to outdo another. Food credits here mostly belong to Chef de Cuisine Frank Harris, one assumes, with input from David Holben. now executive chef at sibling restaurants Mediterraneo and Toscana. 7709 Inwood Rd., 214-351-0094. $$$.



Sambuca. Both locations are vibrant restaurants featuring innovative Mediterranean cuisine for those who enjoy their meals with jazz, Each presents well-known groups seven nights a week, but the decibel level prohibits any casual dinner conversation during performances. 15207 Addison Rd., Addison, 972-385-8455; 2618 Elm St., 214-744-0820. $$.



MEXICAN

D REVISITS Auia’s. On a good night, expect to be greeted by the sound of cooks chopping vegetables. And the smell of fresh jalapenos makes you feel at home-or misty-eyed, anyway. But we’ve had some hit and miss experiences lately at the place we like to call our favorite. Recently, when we asked for his recommendations, owner/waiter Ricky Avila seemed too distracted to answer us. And there were bits of bone in our chicken enchiladas. Still, the create-your-own enchiladas are always a good idea. And the chili relleno distracted us altogether from the negatives of the meal and reminded us why we like this family-owned place. Stuffed with cheese and topped with a delicious ranchera sauce, the peppers are left unbreaded so the pungent flavor of the pepper is what you notice, not fried batter. Pay attention, Ricky. These are worth recommending. 4714 Maple Ave.. 214-520-2700. $.



Cantina Laredo. The rule is, stick to Mex-Mex food at Cantina. and you’ll probably be happy. Chicken tacos cascabel enfold hot peppered. orange-scented,stewed chicken in a soft, fresh tortilla. Pork carnitas feature pork slow-cooked to shreds and wrapped in a tortilla with fresh grilled vegetables and spicy rice. But the dop-pelganger Tex-Mex side of the menu is not so good. Undercooked, stuffed jalapenos are so tough you can’t bite through them. 250 Preston Royal Center, 214-265-1610. $$.



Casa Navarro. This little cafe in a former 7-Eleven specializes in the same unpretentious, cheesy fare we used to love before Tex-Mex became chic. The beer is bring-your-own, and on Wednesdays the enchilada plate is $3.75 all day long. Sopapillas. once the darling dessert at every Tex-Mex joint, are still handmade, light, and greaseless, such a surprisingly elegant finish to the meal that we wished we’d brought our demi-tasse, too. 11742-A Marsh Lane at Forest, 972-357-0141.$.



Casa Rosa. There’s almost always a table available at pink-tinted Casa Rosa, but only because the place is so big. The appeal of the food would pack a smaller place. Casa Rosa does well with standards-except the chimi-changa-but the finds here are the more unusual dishes like goat cheese chile relleno and mushroom enchiladas. 165 Inwood Village. 214-350-5227. $.



Chuy’s. Dallas” mosi frenzied dining scene, if you can call this “dining.” The frenetically zany decor induces an attentional deficit and the food is competent Tex-Mex. but the herds of elbow-bending college students can be daunting if you’re over 30 or are indisposed to dine in a den. Din. Whatever. 4544 McKinney Ave., 214-559-2489.$.



Dos Charros. This is food for people who break into a sweat at the sight of a habanero chile. The extensive menu has plenty of seafood choices and healthful options added to the list of traditional favorites. 108 University Village Shopping Center, Belt Line and Piano roads. 972-783-7671. $.



El Norte. The decor varies from the authentic look of specials painted directly on the walls to cheesy plastic flamingos in the flower boxes, but some solidly good food conies out of the kitchen. This is a great family spot with a reasonable, all-you-can-eat special. 2205 W. Parker Rd., Piano. 972-596-6783. $.



Herrera’s. In the early ’70s, we used to grab a six-pack and line up on the sidewalk around the original Alamo-like Herrera’s on Maple Avenue waiting for one of nine tables and a No. 10: one tostada with guacamole, one cheese enchilada, and a soft cheese taco. Twenty-five years and six locations later, they continue to serve the same No. 10, along with other reliable Tex-Mex favorites, in tacky surroundings. 4001 Maple Ave.. 214-528-9644; 5427 Denton Dr.. 214-630-2599; 2853 W. Illinois Ave., 214-330-6426; 1905 N. Josey Ln., 972-242-4912: 9404 Ovella Ave., 214-956-0150; 3790 Belt Line Rd., 972-488-2202. $.



Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Javier’s lives up to its own high standards. Entrées range from excellent seafood dishes to tender cabrito. though some regulars never stray from the legendary filet Durango. 4912 Cole Ave., 214-521-4211. $$.



La Galle Doce. Far from slicker Belt Line and Greenville Avenue eateries, this old house is home to some seriously good Mexican-style seafood, Sit on the porch and dine on a spicy gazpacho-like octopus cocktail served in huge goblets or shrimp, stuffed with crabmeat, covered with chili con queso and tasting much better than it sounds. 415 W. 12th St., 214-941-4304. $-$$.



Las Cazuelas. This tiny East Dallas jewel serves up marvelous food, starting with the killer salsa that’s made with fresh cilantro, onion, and tomato essences. On Mondays, the special caldo de res, chunky with beef and vegetables, is fabulous, as is the super-hot chile relleno. 4933 Columbia Ave., 214-827-1889. $.



La Valerrtina. A taste of big city Mexico in suburbia. The beautiful menu makes fascinating reading that doesn’t always translate to the plate. The polio en mole poblano tops chicken with a sensuous sauce that includes 54 types of chilies, spices, and a touch of chocolate, resulting in a richly layered smoky-sweet flavor. Forget that fascinating menu when it’s time for dessert and ask for the flan. 14866 Montfort Dr.. Addison, 972-726-0202. $$.



Mario’s Ghiquita. A Dallas classic, this restaurant eschews velvet paintings and kitsch in favor of a pretty, casual decor and offers upscale Mexico City-style fare, as well as some of the best Tex-Mex combinations in town. 221 W, Parker Rd., Ste. 400, Piano, 972-423-2977. $-$$.



Martin’s Cocina. The kitchen here does magic things with seafood (shrimp especially) and offers a listing of entrées that weigh in at less than 1,000 calories each, including the four chiles rellenos. But only skimp if you want to-the most basic combination plate starts with a lettuce-topped chalupa, its toasty tortilla thickly spread with guacamole. 7726 Ferguson Rd., 214-319-8834.$-$$.



Mattito’s. Matt Martinez Jr. himself doesn’t have anything to do with Mattito’s. but he did develop the recipes, and those didn’t change when he left. So the chile relleno and griddled flaulas are excellent. The service is snappy, and what it lacks in charm, it makes up for in efficiency. 5290 Belt Line Rd. at Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-503-8100; 4311 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-8181.$.



D BEST Matt’s Rancho Martinez. The place is filled with the faithful at ever) meal because the flautas are the best in Dallas, the chile relleno is food for the gods, and even a combination plate satisfies, if you don’t mind processed cheese. 6332 La Vista Dr., 214-823-5517. $-$$.



Mia’s. For 14 years, this venerable institution has dished up definitive Tex-Mex food to addicts who stand in line on Tuesdays, when owner Ana Enriquez satisfies their lust for her incomparable chiles rellenos. Other days, they make do with house specialties. Service is cheerful; the setting is no-frills comfortable. The bad news: beer and wine only. 4322 Lemmon Ave., 214-526-1020. S.



Mi Cocina. This chain has expanded so rapidly, you’d think Dallasites had just discovered Tex-Mex. But at all six locations, the food is dependably good and lines are still dependably long. The menu features upscale dishes in addition to basic tacos and enchiladas-tacos habanas are stuffed with chicken and covered with ground chili and cilantro; Latin stir-fry fajitas provide a new option for vegetarians. 11661 Preston Rd., 214-265-7704: 77 Highland Park Village, 214-521-6426: 18352 Dallas Pkwy. at Frankford Road, 972-250-6426; 7201 Skillman St., 214-503-6426; The Galieria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. at LBJ Freeway, 972-239-6426: 509 Main St.. Fort Worth, 817-877-3600. $-$$.



D BEST Monica Aca Y Alla. This cool place has been around long enough to be a tradition in these days of restaurants that open and close-especially in Deep Ellum. The ambitious menu offers intriguing South western-inspired options as well as more standard Tex-Mex, in a hip and hopping ambience. Best lunch deals in town. 2914 Main St., 214-748-7140.$$.



Nuevo Leon. Excellent Mex-Mex food in a comfortable old Greenville Avenue location draws a mixed crowd but enthusiastic reviews. Cabrito is good, mole is excellent, carnitas are the best. 2013 Greenville Ave., 214-887-8148; 12895 Josey Ln., 972-488-1984. $-$$.



Omega’s. It’s easy to imagine ending evenings at Omega’s. But fortunately Omega’s is also a great place to lunch, and it’s even a comfortable place to eat alone. This friendly little cafe on a Deep Ellum side street serves a complimentary cup of chile con queso with the warmed salsa and tostados. There’s nothing particularly original about the menu, but the basic cheese-oozing enchilada plate is pure comfort food. 212 N. Crowdus St., 214-744-6842. $.



Pape & Mito’s. The vivid walls and bright lights mean this cafe looks noisy even though it’s not usually crowded. It should be-chips worth mentioning (thick, warm, slightly overcooked), cilantro-laced salsa, and standards like nachos and enchiladas are excellent. Tamales are utterly remarkable, and chicken and beef taquitos are still some of the best in town. 2935 Elm St., 214-741-1901.$.



Piano Tortilla Factory. If you live in Piano, then this little place should be on the top of your list for a quick bite, takeout, or delivery. Piano Tortilla Factory’s appeal doesn’t end with the food-the friendly owner is quick to strike up a conversation and make you feel welcome. Low prices are a bonus, too. 1009 E. 18th St., Piano, 972-423-6980. $.



Primo’s. On the “Mex” side of the Tex-Mex fare, enchiladas came with Cheddar cheese gurgling in thick chili con came and topped with more cheese. Our cheese-fest continued with a “Tex” version of a chili relleno: a cheesestuffed poblano pepper, dipped in a queso and egg butler, then deep-fried. The amount of money the kitchen spends on cheese could probably put a man on the moon-there is even grated cheese on the side salads. We ate it all. 14905 Midway, Addison, 972-661-2287; 3309 McKinney, 214-220-0510. $.



Rafa’s. One Dallas institution replaced another when Raphael’s (now Rafa’s) opened in Mr. Peppe’s old space on Lovers Lane. The arched brick wine cellar is bright orange, and the pastoral Swiss view has been replaced by pictures of many Aztec gods and one happy tomato. The place could still use a few velvet paintings, but the tablescape is complete: Light, fresh chips, vinegary salsa, and fast margantas are the intra to a meal that’s quintessential Dallas Mexican. 5617 W. Lovers Ln., 214-357-2080. $-$$.



Rodolfo’s. Start with the home-fried chips, huge half-tortilla rounds served with a full-bodied salsa. Then try the Big Tex-Mex dinner or the Number 0 {yes, they start numbering at zero). The star on the Number 0 plate is the Idaho enchiladas made of, yes. mashed potatoes, pleasantly spiced and available with a choice of seven different sauces. 2002 S. Edgefield Ave., 214-942-1211.$.



Taco Diner. The name sounds slightly retro. But the tacos at the Diner are real Mexican soft tacos, not drive-through, crunchy, greasy Tex-Mex mutalions. The com tortillas are the star here; no matter what you wrap them around, the result is good-chicken with cojita cheese, grilled pork, and meaty mushrooms are all complemented by the fragrant masa tortillas. 4011 Villanova, 214-696-4944. $.



Tupinamba. Thankfully, nothing changes at Tupinamba. Those who have followed Tupy’s for 30-some-odd years to its several locations (now, fourth) have come to depend on it for massive quantities of delicious food in a friendly, attentive atmosphere. 12270 Inwood Rd., 972-991-8148.$-$$.



MIDDLE EASTERN



Al-Amir. The Mediterranean meets the rising sun at Al Amir, which took the place of a Japanese restaurant. The result is an odd, melting-pot ambience. Concentrate on the plate- Middle Eastern expectations are well-met with good renditions of hummus, baba ghanoush. and lamb. But there are also some less well-known dishes to try. 7402 Greenville Ave.. 214-739-2647.$$.



Ali Baba. Order hummus and you get a bowl swirled with the garlicky purée, pooled with yellow olive oil, dusted with parsley and adorned with slick olives. That and a stack of hot pita could do you. but the grilled chicken is irresistible, and the tabbouleh, mostly chopped parsley with bits of bulgur and tomato, is a perfect counterpoint to the unctuous chickpea mash. 1905 Greenville Ave., 214-823-8235. $-$$.



Basha. Basha was one of the first in the wave of Middle Eastern restaurants that have opened in Dallas in the last few years. And it remains one of the best of a good lot. The menu is less predictable than many of Dallas’ Lebanese restaurants, offering dishes outside the usual selection of hummus, baba ghanoush, rice, and grilled everything. Breast of chicken breaded in crushed pistachios is an excellent idea-so is fragrant lamb shank, cooked till it is stew on the bone. OK, hummus is good, too. 2217 Greenville Ave.. 214-824-7794. $$.



Cafe Istanbul. The tiny kitchen overachieves on most of its Turkish dishes, especially if you like it spicy. The dining room gets cozy at night. but those who tolerate early evening daylight are rewarded with a happy hour. Solid service tops off a superb all-around experience. 5450 W. Lovers Ln., Ste. 222, 214-902-0919. $-$$.



D REVISITS Cafe Izmir. This remains one of the best little restaurants in Dallas. The space is small, but the effect is cozy, not claustrophobic. The service is friendly and efficient. And the choices are simple- all you have to say is “meat” or “veg,” and the food starts coming. Our last visit was as satisfying as our first one, so we’re adding consistency to the list of Cafe Izmir’s virtues. The mezes platter-hummus (mashed chickpeas as a medium lor garlic), baba ghanoush (pureed roasted eggplant), and Russian chicken salad, all designed to spread on warm pita bread-is a regular, and after that it’s up to Mama, who’s cooking in the kitchen. She digresses into the Southwest occasionally (the lamb “tacos” with jalapenos are a specially), but mostly this is Middle Eastern fare. A family-sized platter of juicy grilled beet”, lamb, chicken, kofta (lean, spicy sausage), and grilled vegetables comes with a heap of golden, fragrant rice. Wash it down with a bottle of the Boutari and you’ll be happy. 3711 Greenville Ave., 214-826-7788. $$$.



Hedary’s. George Hedary is back with a comfortable clone of the Fort Worth original, menu and all. in North Dallas. Order the menu’s maza appetizer and you’ll get a dozen sampler starters. And tiny cups of Lebanese coffee keep you awake on the drive home. 7915 Belt Line Rd., 972-233-1080. $$.



MOROCCAN



D BEST Marrakesh. Just what is Moroccan cuisine, and v. hat is it doing in Dallas? It is lamb and couscous and fresh vegetables spiced with mysterious combinations of nutmeg, paprika, and cumin-wonderful. The Moroccan Feast-a sample of almost everything on the menu-is a bargain at $25.93 per person. Vibrant Middle-Eastern music accompanies a veiled belly dancer in a purple bra who gyrates and finger-cymbales her way around the room. 5207 W. Lovers Ln., 214-357-4104.$$.



NEW AMERICAN



Antares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-high, revolving restaurant appears to be finding its wings at last. Huge sea scallops were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes and shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a roasted shallot vinaigrette. Reunion Tower. 300 Reunion Blvd.. 214-651-1234. $$$.



Anzu. The Nakamotos spent a considerable amount of money to alter Anzu ’s entrance so its feng shui would be perfectly balanced. Maybe it helps the consistently balanced flavors in the bento boxes. Lunch at this orientally inclined restaurant has always been one of the best deals in town-a beautiful arrangement of tempura and sushi or a plate of Asian-influenced fish or chicken, served gracefully, under a flock of origami birds, for less than $10. 4620 McKinney Ave., 214-526-7398. $$.



Beau Hash. The genteel bustle of a world-class hotel makes dinner at this restaurant seem like a special occasion. Good picks: a portobello tart or moist-hearted Atlantic salmon. Bad pick: a salad of Belgian endive and unforgivably dry and yellow mache. Service throughout is immaculate and thoughtful. Hotel Crescent Court, 2215 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-871-3240.$$-$$$.



City Cafe. This California-inspired, mostly family-run cafe opened over a dozen years ago but remains in the top tier of Dallas restaurants. The charming but dim dining room is furnished with cottage antiques, and the food is classic, with a wake-up flash of invention. Fresh tomato basil soup is famous. The service is confident and careful, and the American wine list is one of the best in town. 5757 W. Lovers Ln., 214-351-2233.$$.



Dakota’s. The pad of paper and pen beside the plate are the first clue to Dakota’s lunchtime target. That’s if you didn’t notice the standard lunchtime uniforms around every table-pinstripes preferred. The menu is correspondingly conservative, focusing on grilled meats and predictable pastas, with imaginative New American touches on some dishes, like the venison sausage in the quesadillas and the tortilla crust on the halibut. For a business meal, though, the noise level needs to come way down. 600 N. Akard St., 214-740-4001. $$.



Landmark Restaurant Landmark’s menu may make you wish for an atlas and a thesaurus to find your way around, but if you’ll close your eyes, forget about the origin of your vegetables, and eat them, you’ll have a great trip. The New American food here, under the direction of Jim Anile, is ultra-imaginative, if highly complicated. And the gently refurbished room remains one of the most gracious in town. In the Melrose, 3015 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-521-5151.$$-$$$.



D BEST Laurels. Rising star executive chef and general manager Danielle Custer brings her cutting-edge cuisine to Sheraton Park Central’s 20th floor.

Incomprehensible dishes like pear soup with plum wine crème fraiche don’t make sense until you put them in your mouth. You have to trust Custer: She minks with her palate, and the results are brilliant. Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr.. 972-385-3000. $$$.



The Mansion on Turtle Creek. This isn’t dinner, it’s a dining experience. A dramatic, country club-like, members-only dining experience. The Grande Dame of Dallas dining lives up to its legend-the atmosphere is inimitably posh, the food is predictably innovative. The price? If you have to ask, you can’t afford it. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 214-526-2121. $$$.



The Mercury. This New American grill in Preston Forest tries a little too hard: The sleek interior, designer-dim lighting, and jazzy soundtrack all seem a little too Manhattan. The service, though, is enthusiastic and professional beyond expectation. But there is a gap between the food promised by the menu and the dishes delivered. Tuna at lunch is nicely cooked but the pappardelle with roasted chicken tastes like leftovers. 1991 Forest Ln., Ste. 1418.972-960-7774. $$-$$$.

Nana Gril. The new menu broadens Nana’s focus from Southwestern to Regional American. Service is supremely suave and caring, the accoutrements define luxe, and the ambience is as comfortably refined as always in this upscale establishment. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel Tower, 2201 Stemmons Frwy., 214-761-7479. $$$.



Sevy’s. The thoroughly American Prairie-style interior perfectly complements chef-owner Jim Severson’s hearty American cuisine. The plates here present classic ideas with imaginative updates. The menu is varied, but beef is a reliable choice-the tenderloin is slightly hickory smoked. The marinated mushroom appetizer is the best portobello in town. 8201 Preston Rd., 214-265-7389. $$.



SEAFOOD



D BEST AquaKnox. Stephan Pyles’ swank) seafood spot has commanded national attention, and the swell decor and meticulous food mostly merit it. Luscious red snapper in red curry masa is an example of the global approach to seafood. The rich and the wannabes are sipping bright blue Aquatinis in the elegant lounge, eating from a simpler menu that includes platters of fresh shrimp, oysters, clams, and small-plate versions of the dinner entrées, an excellent option for those who want a taste of the high life without the high tab. 3214 Knox St., 214-219-2782. $$$.



Cafe Pacific. Cafe Pacific continues to delight as one of Dallas’ most reliable luncheon and dinner restaurants, as well as the place to witness the social structure of Dallas1 power people in action. Menu favorites like calamari, clam chowder, Caesar salad, salmon, and red snapper are superbly prepared and presented by an experienced waitstaff. 24 Highland Park Village, 214-526-1170. $$-$$$.



Daddy Jack’s. Chef Jack Chaplin’s tiny restaurant with its casual, cozy atmosphere is perfect for a date or for breezing in after a day at the take. But forget about atmosphere. What we’re really talking about is fantastic, though richly prepared, seafood. Also worth noting are the relaxed, efficient service and fair prices: The experience is worth every penny. 1916 Greenville Ave.. 214-826-4910; 150 S.Denton Tap. Coppell. 972-393-5152. $$.



Daddy Jack’s Wood Grill. This Jack Chaplin restaurant offers lively service and food that manage to combine homey familiarity with twists of near-elegance. For example, a grilled red snapper topped with shrimp and lobster brandy could grace a tonier table, but here it’s served with an ear of com. 2723 Elm St., 214-653-3949. $$.



Fish. This elegant downtown spot got very hot very fast, and it may have gone to their heads. Not only have we seen inconsistencies in the food, but service has been snooty. When they’re on, the acclaimed Green Soup-a shallow bowl piled high with shells, legs, and tails protruding recklessly from a broth-is divine. Late-night menu from 10 p.m.-2 a.m. 302 S. Houston St., 214-747-3474. $$-$$$.



Lefty’s. The menu is small, but Lefty’s features everything you’d expect a good lobster house to have, including beef for those who don’t like seafood. One bargain: the one-pound lobster with baked potato and corn for $ 10.95. 4021 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-774-9518.$$.



D BEST Lombardi Mare. The stylishly polished interior is a real mind-blower, and so is the food. Feast on five types of farm-fresh oysters, steamed mussels, and lobster. A polenta crusted salmon served with red cabbage was a perfect meal. If we had to choose one place to entertain an out-of-towner, Lombardi Mare would be our choice.5100 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-503-1233. $$.



Newport’s. Some of the freshest seafood you’ll find in land-locked North Texas. Choose from mesquite-grilled fish, seared, blackened, or fried seafood, and sautéed chicken- Housed in the old Dallas Brewery and Bottling works, Newport’s three-tiered dining room actually holds a huge, open Artesian well that once fed the pre-Prohibition brewing operation. 703 McKinney Ave., 214-954-0220. $$.



Picardys Shrimp Shop. New American inventiveness at family-style prices. Picardys finds a regional inspiration for most of its mostly shrimp dishes: Coconut tempura shrimp are lender, juicy, and pleasantly sweet; a side of honey-sour sauce added a potent bite. Grilled shrimp nachos, with shrimp, black beans, white cheese, and salsa, were light and chewy. Picardys’ kid-friendly atmosphere is a plus. 6800 Snider Plaza, 214-373-4099. $-$$.

D REVISITS S&D Oyster Company. They’ve got fried shrimp, they’ve got boiled shrimp, they’ve got barbecued shrimp. These people would make the Bubba Gump Shrimp company proud. S & D can do anything with shrimp, and they have been doing it for longer than we care to remember (or admit we do). The fried shrimp is so delicately breaded you can still see the pink-skinned flesh through the crust. Then it’s butterflied, lightly fried, and served with a dollop of tartar sauce-heavy on the pickle. The peel-and-eat barbecued shrimp, like Pascal’s Manale, comes floating in a buttery barbecue sauce that we simply had to sop up with our baguette. And no meal here would be complete without a slice of the famous key lime pie. Frosty mugs of cold beer eased our irritation at their stubbornly outdated “Inglenook Only” wine list. 2701 McKinney Ave., 214-880-0111.$$.



Sea Grill. Mall sprawl makes this Piano oasis hard to find, which would make its unflagging popularity hard to explain if Chef Andy Tun’s highly creative takes on seafood were not so arresting. Dip a half-dozen raw oysters in Tun’s tangy grapefruit-horseradish sauce, and you’ll wonder why you ever overwhelmed such delicacy with ketchup. And your fork’s own weight slides through die barely seared jumbo sea scallop or a moist-hearted cut of grilled tuna. 2205 N. Central Expwy., Ste. 180, Piano, 972-509-5542. $$.

Truhick’s Steak & Stone Crab. Miami-inspired, this striking art-deco eatery is the only spot in Dallas that serves the infamous stone crab seven days a week, year-round. They come in four sizes, and they’re ruinously expensive. Truluck’s showcases an attentiveness to detail and skillful service-even if it demands you crush your piggy bank before savoring those claws. 5001 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-503-3079; 2401 McKinney. 214-220-2401 $$-$$$.



Vincent’s. This place hasn’t conformed to any current low-fat or global-spice trends; the signature Red Snapper a la Vincent’s is still a deli-ciously rich filet, lightly breaded, sautéed in loads of lemon butter, and topped with a huge clump of fresh crab. There is a lighter side: A lovely broiled halibut was sauced with about half the snapper’s butter. The whole experience is completely unhip and therefore completely comforting. 3004 N Northwest Highway. 214-352-2692; 2432 Preston at Park, Piano, 972-612-6208. $$-$$$.



SOUTHWESTERN



Blue Mesa. Blue Mesa has become a dining mainstay, faithful to its Southwest mission and consistently good. Adobe pie, the signature dish, is a treat, the bowl-shaped mound of cornmeal enclosing a stew-like filling of seasoned chicken. Guacamole, barely seasoned and creamy, is some of the best in town. Our only quibble is the Blue Mesa margarita: We want to be warned when we’re going to be served a blue drink-so we can order something else. Village on the Parkway, Toll way al Belt Line Road. 972-934-0165.$-$$.



Flying Burro. The Burro’s brand of Mexican food isn’t purely New Mexican-there’s more meat and cheese richness on this menu than most New Mexicans (except those from California) can afford to relish. Enchiladas are stacked and come topped with an egg. 2831 Greenville Ave.. 214-827-2112. $.



No Place. Tender elk sirloin and boneless rabbit are sided with sautéed portobello mushrooms and onions. Better-than-beef chicken-fried venison comes with Matt’s famous smoked mashed potatoes. The food is why Matt Martinez Jr. is a legend-in his own neighborhood, anyway. 6325 La Vista Dr., 214-328-9078. $$-$$$.



D BEST Star Canyon. Chef-ownei Stephan Pyles has created a Dallas destination with his innovative New Texas Cuisine. An appetizer of fried green tomatoes stacked high with layers of Dallas-made mozzarella is a rare case of tall food Easting as good as it looks. And the bone-in cowboy ribeye on a bed of pinto beans and covered with a mound of shoestring onion rings dusted with red chile should be listed in Fodor’s under Dallas’ top attractions. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-520-7827. $$.



D REVISITS Y.O. Ranch. Matt Martinez eatures his Tex-Mex and hicken fried steak at lunch and spotlights the wild game of Texas for dinner at this West End cowboy parlor. There are lots of 10-gallon hats and tourists. Note: This is the only place downtown where you can eat frog’s legs. They’re a Martinez specialty, seasoned with Matt’s secret spices. Though this is frontier fare, the kitchen can have a light touch. On our last visit, we had two delicious, delicately grilled, semi-boneless quail as well as a special two-inch, 12-ounce pork chop that was as moist and tender as a filet mignon. However, the buck stopped short with an undercooked top sirloin. We ordered it medium rare; it came bloody, was sent back, and was returned to us medium well. The Turkey Tender-a grilled turkey breast-was tasteless, as turkey so often is. And the bar scene rocks with Jerry Jeff Walker tunes and cigar-smoking buckaroos-the perfect place to take your Yankee guests. 702 Ross Ave., 214-744-3287. $-$$.



SPANISH



Cafe Madrid. Dallas’ first tapas bar remains its best, and everybody knows it. Even midweek, this little two-room restaurant has customers waiting at the bar for one of the mismatched tables in the storefront space. For those who insist, there is a prix-fixe, three-course dinner menu, but Cafe Madrid is a great place to linger over a succession of small dishes-an assortment of olives, oxtail stew, the potato omelet called a tortilla, braised lamb slices. 4501 Travis St.. 214-528-1731. $$.

La Tasca Espariola. So many tapas, so little time. You can make a meal by choosing small plates from the list of 22-and do it for under $20. We encountered some rough spots after a recent change in ownership, but we hope they will get their classic paella Valencia back in shape. The service is gracious, and the fun wine list is full of inexpensive Spanish reds- one bottle of which cost as much as two glasses in most restaurants. 4131 Lomo Alto Dr., 214-599-9563.$$.



STEAKHOUSES



Bob’s Steak & Chop House. This place dazzles with juicy, tasty cuts of meat-coupled with veggie and potato-and pleasant, attentive ser-vice. All at the appropriate price. 4300 Lemmon Ave.. 214-528-9446. $$-$$$.



D BEST Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House. Prime rib and a trimmed-to-lean ribeye are robustly rare and complemented with garlic mashed potatoes. Figure in service that is, if not clairvoyant, almost uncannily empathetic, and you’ll have some grasp of the comfortable ambience that keeps this cigar-friendly outpost filled even on weekday evenings. 5330 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 972-934-2467. $$-$$$.



Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. Filets are virtually perfect, fashioned from cuts of meat as thick as couch cushions, and the wine list is varied. Even the vegetables are great. Not for the faint of pocketbook, but it’s worth serious consideration when you’re in the mood to blow it out red-meat style. 5251 Spring Valley Rd., 972-490-9000. $$-$$$.



Kirby’s Steakhouse. One recent dinner had six happy Yankee carnivores whistling Dixie, but more recently we were served a puck-like filet i sitting alone on a parsley-less plate. And we didn’t understand what made the mashed potatoes “famous”-we tasted nothing more than potatoes whipped with lots of pepper. On the other hand, service was attentive, the prime rib was pure retro-quality, and die onion rings might be the best in Dallas. 3525 Greenville Avenue, 214-821-2122; 3408 Preston Road, Piano. 972-867-2122.$$.



D REVISITS The Palm. New general man-ager Brian Perry has breathed new life into the place. He rearranged the dining room and gave the famous (and not so famous) faces on the wall a lift by repainting them. It seems the kitchen has had a few tucks taken, too. This upscale surf-n-turf serves a die-hard group of lobster loyalists, and on our last visit we watched in awe while a bib-clad table of six-elbows flying madly-devoured half a dozen five-pound lobsters, dismembering them with the precision of surgeons. Our mediocre Caesar salad and perfectly awful field green salad, drowned in blue cheese dressing, were eclipsed by our four-pound lobster (at $20 a pound!), which was sweet and tender. A 24-ounce New York strip was a two-inch slab, a beautiful piece of meat unfortunately overcooked. The Palm staffers are all veterans, and so are most of the customers-the bartender knows everyone by name. Don’t be intimidated by the chummy atmosphere. This is a club anyone with S80 to spare for a lobster can join. 701 Ross Ave., 214-698-0470. $$-$$$.



Randy’s Steakhouse. A meal in this cozy, Victorian home-cum-restauram can make you feel like you’re having dinner at a friend’s. But your friends never served steaks like these. Graded prime and cut by hand, these beauties are rich and buttery. Ten seafood selections offer plenty of alternate choices. 7026 Main St., Frisco. 972-335-3066.$$-$$$.



Stone Trail Steakhouse. Lavish decor, live music for late dancing, an upscale menu and wine list mark this sprawling steak spread as the brainchild of restaurateur Tony Taherzadeh, former owner of Farfallo and Papillon. A clubby ambience and prescient service support terrific beef treatments (by the bone-in ribeye); seafood and other meats provide variety. Dinner only. 14833 Midway Rd., 972-701-9600. $$$.



THAI



Chow Thai. A strip shopping center doesn’t seem a likely spot for a Thai food epiphany, but you’ll have one here. Excellent Thai classics like vegetables in a fiery green curry and pad Thai taste clean and light. A dessert of fresh mango atop sticky rice is a spectacular ending. 5290 Beltline Rd. at Montfort Drive, Addison. 972-960-2999. $$.



D BEST Liberty. Annie Wong, the mother of Thai food in Dallas, still owns three all-Thai restaurants, but Liberty is where her imagination is freed. Romantically and softly lit, with beaded candleshades on each table and bamboo birdcages animated with twinkling Christmas lights, the brightly lit kitchen makes Liberty into real dinner theater, and Wong is the star. What makes her food different is what makes any chef’s food special: imagination. 5631 Alta Ave.. 214-887-8795. $$.



Royal Thai. Furnished with ornate Thai antiques and traditional arts. Royal Thai is a pleasantly upscale change from the starkly serviceable interiors of so many Thai restaurants. Chicken packets are wrapped in tenderizing banana leaves. Curries are fragrant and benefit from their presentation under a little domed top. In Old Town, 5500 Greenville Ave., 214-691-3555. $-$$.



VIETNAMESE



Mai’s. Mai’s is one of those places that has lots of loyal customers. The menu is stocked with authentic Vietnamese specialties, including lots of noodle and rice entrees and the classic hot pots: exotic meats, vegetables, and spices cooked and served in clay pots. Be sure and try the legendary Vietnamese coffee with sweetened condensed milk. 4812 Bryan St., 214-826-9887. $.



Mai’s Oriental Cuisine. The Vietnamese menu is the one to go for. Proprietor Mai Pham opened the first Vietnamese restaurant in Dallas, and her food is still terrific at her little restaurant in Snider Plaza. The hot pots are especially good-“hot chic” is the regulars’ favorite. 6912 Snider Plaza, 214-361-8220.$-$$.



Saigon Bistro. Authentic Vietnamese food translated into English. Saigon Bistro aims for the authenticity of a point-and-order Vietnamese restaurant, without the risk. The menu lets you know what to expect, and this is one of the only places in town that serves “festive beef,” a special occasion dinner in Vietnam-one you shouldn’t miss. 17390 Preston Rd., Ste. 490, 972-380-2766. $-$$.



TARRANT COUNTY



D BEST Angela’s Barbecue. The Fort Worth landmark is one of the bookends of Dallas-Fort Worth area barbecue, its Dallas counterpart being the original Sonny Bryan’s. Famous for fabulous ribs smoked so tender the meat falls off the bone at the slightest nudge from the incisors, which are properly enjoyed with a couple of Shiners. 2533 White Settlement Rd., Fort Worth, 817-332-0357. $.



Angeluna. The patio swarms with an artsy Chanel-and-Cbardonnay crowd before and after events at the Bass Performance Hall across the street. The “one-world-on-a-plate” menu features designer pizzas, pastas, and spinach and mushroom salads corralled by delicate potato rings. Who cares if it’s more about style than substance? After all, the parent company is in Aspen. 215 E. 4th St.. Fort Worth, 817-334-0080. $$.



Benito’s. Like an old familiar friend, Benito’s appearance may be spruced up from time to time, but some things never change-like the food. The queso flameado, with or without chorizo, is flamed tableside and served with fresh pico de gallo and hot flour or com tortillas. Order it first and then spend some time with the menu–everything on it is worth trying. 1450 W. Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth. 817-332-8633. $$.



Blue Mesa. See listing in Dallas Southwestern. University Park Village, 1600 S. University, Fort Worth, 817-332-6372. $-$$.



Cattlemen’s Steak House. Fort Worth ate cattle before cattle was cool, and Cattlemen’s is still the quintessential stockyard steakhouse. There’s not much but beef accompanied by rolls, potatoes, and iceberg lettuce salad, but the atmosphere is genuine cowboy. 2458 N. Main St., Fort Worth, 817-624-3945. $$-$$$.



Daddio’s Downtown Nearly Jazz Cafe. The Greek salad is the best in town, and the rest of the menu gives a unique Texas tone to classic Greek specialties. Breakfast and lunch only, except on Friday and Saturday, when you can listen to music while enjoying dinner. 715 W. Magnolia Ave.. Fort Worth. 817-926-7000. $.



8.0. See listing in Dallas Eclectic. 111 E. 3rd. Fort Worth. 817-336-0880. $-$$.



D BEST Grape Escape. The gimmick here in education-Grape Escape is trying to do the same thing for wine that brew pubs did for beer. So you order “flights” of the grape of your choice, and the waiter brings a four-glass tasting of say, chardonnay, from Sonoma, Napa, Australia, and New Zealand. Compare and contrast. The food is designed around the wine, so you can change direction mid-meal-start with white wine and suggested matches, finish with red wine and cheese. The selection of small plates-merguez sausages, pate, salads, stuffed potatoes, pizzettes-adds up to a full meal that’s lots of fun. 500 Commerce Si.. Fort Worth, 817-336-9463. $$.



Joe T. Garcia’s Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery. Although not as fancy as its cousin around the corner, the chefs do an excellent job preparing all the old favorites from burritos to tamales. Breakfast is a work of art here. And on your way out, the bakery, in an alcove off the dining room, sells traditional Mexican breads, rolls. and sweet rolls. 2122 N. Main St., Fort Worth. 817-626-5770.$$.

D BEST Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. The quintessential Fort Worth restaurant. Its location near the Stockyards is a rambling plantation that can handle the crowds for whom the restaurant’s status hovers somewhere between “institution” and “nirvana.” Wait for a spot outside by the pool and order (he enchiladas. Joe doesn’t do credit cards or reservations, either. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth. 817-626-4356. $$.



Kincaid’s. The actual truth is that a Kincaid’s hamburger is too big to get your mouth around and too good not to try. Lunching business types stand hip to hip with blue-collared brethren at long counters or share benches at tables to inhale half-pound patties of choice chuck that are ground, hand-shaped, and grilled daily. 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth. 817-732-2881.$.



D BEST Reata. The flavors purveyed (upscale, ranch-contemporary) are crisp and deftly defined. With a good wine list, floor-to-ceiling windows, and a thick glaze of Western decor (including a menu finished in leather), you’d have to be a pretty crusty cowboy not to be roped in. 35th floor. Bank One Tower, 500 Throckmorton St., Fort Worth, 817-336-1009. $$-$$$.



Reflections. Surely among the most gracefully romantic dining settings in the Dallas-Fort Worth area, Worthington Hotel’s flagship restaurant in downtown Fort Worth offers a refined escape from high-decibel stress. Intuitive service and avant bill of fare live up to die ambience. Delicate pan-seared foie gras with sautéed apples and grilled, whiskey-sauced ostrich medallions with red lentil risotto are representative of the kitchen’s inventions. 200 Main St., Fort Worth. 817-882-1660 or 800-433-5677. $$$.



Saint Emilion. Some are surprised to see this Fort Worth restaurant on the list of lop 10 restaurants in the area. But the brick-walled. country French atmosphere is charming, and the food is mostly terrific. The wine list features many vintages from the Saint Emilion region, as you might expect. 3617 W, 7th St.. Fort Worth. 817-727-2781. $$$.



Water Street Seafood Company. Although Fort Worth is landlocked, there’s still serviceable seafood to be had. The dining room could use a few more walls and a few less tables, but plenty of daily specials supplement a range of regular entrées that would make a coastal restaurant proud. 1540 S. University Dr.. Ste. 120. Fort Worth. 817-877-3474. $$.

Dairy-ette



Let’s hear it once more for the old-fashioned drive-in, so much more fun than the modern drive-through. Dairy-Ette is one of Dallas’ oldest Happy Days hangovers, and the joys of private dining in your own car deserve to be re-experienced, not to mention the joy of the $2.20 hamburger.

9785 Ferguson Rd., 214-327-9983

TrolleyFeast ’98



Every year the grateful McKinney Avenue merchants and restaurateurs gather to celebrate the anachronistic tourist attraction that has brought them good business. This year, Hard Rock Cafe, Breadwinners, Hoffbrau, Texas Land & Cattle, Prime’s, and Cafe Margaux are a few of the restaurants that provide the grub to go with the golf at the Hank Haney Golf Center. Robert Lee Cobb band provides the tunes. Unabashedly, Trolleyfeast raises money for itself (the McKinney Avenue Trolley Association) as well as the Child and Family Guidance Centers, Friday, October 16 from 7p.m. to 11 p.m. on McKinney Avenue. $50 per person, reservations required. 972-899-5982.

Krispy Kreme Kountdown



No other doughnut will do. We’ve received more voice mail about the coming of Krispy Kreme Doughnuts than we have about any other restaurant opening. It seems people really care about the quality of their deep-fried treats, and they can’t wait for the red “Hot Doughnuts Now” to appear in Dallas. So here’s the scoop: Krispy Kreme, which has been a staple in the South since the ’30s, will open at the corner of Colorado and Cooper in Arlington in early December. That’s just the first of many, according to Krispy Kreme HQ, so start perking.