IN DALLAS. BARBECUE NEARLY NUDGES out bargers as the most beloved meal on a bun. You can get a chain-made barbecue sandwich any where in North Dallas there’s a cookie-cutter place on almost every corner. There’s even a Dickey’s at DFW Airport the most antiseptic atmosphere imaginable outside Parkland Hospital. The best barbecue is a soulful thing. It’s hand-tended, closely watched-and it’s worth seeking out.
We say, go south. Check out Dallas’ lesser-known, home-grown smoke pits like Smoky Joe’s (6407S.R.L. Thornton. 214-371-8081); Sweet Georgia Brown (2840 E. Ledbetter Dr., 214-375-2020); Odom’s (1971 Singleton Blvd., 214-631-3538); and Cartel’s, pictured above (1621 S. Malcolm X Blvd.. 214-428-9461 ). These are places where the smoke has seeped into the walls, the side dishes are only nominal, and yon can tell by the hickory smell a block away that the beef is going to be good.
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