Restaurant Reviews

Mercury Rises



In spite of high expectations and recommendations, we didn’t fall in love with The Mercury when it first opened. Maybe we just expected too much. But after repeated visits, the food still wasn’t the value that we thought it should be. However, so many people have expressed enthusiasm for this chic little neighborhood restaurant that we decided to check it out again. And though we still think the place Is too chic for a neighborhood restaurant, the food has Improved since the opening months. One dish from our first experience here we dubbed the “ugliest” food we’d seen, but Mercury’s kitchen artistry has improved to our eyes. And mouth. This time, the swordfish, perfectly marked from the grill, was balanced by a warm artichoke salad and a corn relish-both pretty on the plate and a nice textural contrast to the fish. The starter, grilled shrimp with avocado and a “gazpacho” sauce (think soupy pico de gallo), was equally lovely to look at, though we didn’t look at it for long. Altogether, we’re glad we took a second look at The Mercury. 1418 Preston Forest Sq., 972-960-7774. $$.

NEWCOMERS

TEI TEI

Of course, everyone came to Tei Tei, the new robata bar on Henderson, for the kobe steak, which the early reviews raved about. Kobe beef is listed on the menu at $100 a serving-what right-eating Texan wouldn’t want to taste the world’s most expensive beef? Even if it is in a Japanese restaurant. Kobe beef, from cattle fed with beer and massaged with sake, is legendary, the most pampered food in the world. (A&M is supposedly working on a domestic version. Fed with Lone Star, massaged with tequila?) But the import of kobe is strictly limited-according to Tei Tei’s chef-owner, Teichi Sakurai, he bought six of the eight strips-only about 120 pounds of beef- allotted to the U.S. When we first ate at Tei Tei, Teichi wasn’t expecting another shipment of beef for two months. And he wasn’t taking advance reservations, either. In fact, he had found himself in the position of selling something he couldn’t deliver. So it’s no surprise to find, a couple of months later, that kobe beef is a blackboard special, only sold on the regular menu as sashimi for a mere $9.50.

We still haven’t tasted the kobe beef, but Tei Tei is a destination restaurant anyway. Several dozen respectable sushi bars have opened in Dallas in the past few years, but most of the menus are as predictable as McDonald’s. Teichi-who also owns Teppo, die yakitori/sushi baron Greenville-is serving a wider variety of exotic seafood and sushi, a selection that invites you to explore.

You enter Tei Tei from the rear, walking a narrow, pebbled, private path to the door. It’s far from the crowd on Henderson, calling up every cliche of oriental serenity-so different an entrance from the valet melee just across Central at AquaKnox. The restaurant, with its high windows and elementally sophisticated decor, would be peaceful if it weren’t so crowded. Tei Tei doesn’t take reservations, and there’s a line out the door most nights.

Open your mind and your mouth-Tei Tei has some treats that require suspension of disbelief. An appetizer of “crystal fish”-tiny, larval-looking fish, clear except for their little black eyes-came coiled together in a cool nest with a saltiness like ultra-lite caviar. Kabocha Pumpkin Potage sounds like one of Martha Stewart’s bright ideas. (Serve it in a hollowed-out pumpkin! Gilded!) But the eggnog-colored broth was blended with the scent of cloves and ginger into a complex smoothness. We ordered “kinki fish”-who wouldn’t?-and were served a whole fish (snapper), slashed to the bone so the flesh lifted out easily with chopsticks. The ayu fish, smaller and stronger-flavored, we preferred soaked in sake, as we’ve eaten it at Teppo. To eat the soft-shell crab, we abandoned our Eastern eating utensils and resorted to the god-given: fingers.

Tei-Tei,2906N.HendersonAve.,2l4-828-2400. $$-$$$.



THREE FORKS

Three Forks is yet another big deal steak-house in a city that’s apparently anemic-we just can’t get enough beef. The restaurant is in the shadow of Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, right around the comer from Del Frisco’s, not too far from Chamberlain’s, and just northeast of Stone Trail, which is right behind Morton’s. The battle of the beef is on, and we’re betting the winner won’t be declared until the economy gives up.

Still, in the steakhouse culture, Three Forks is first among equals, the King Ranch of meat and potatoes restaurants. The Federal-style building feels more like a hotel than a restaurant when you enter-display cases are filled with tall ships and Sioux bead-work, and the customers are similarly mixed up, dressed in everything from khaki shorts to sequins. It seats nearly 1,000 people, the wine list is hugely extensive and expensive-with several selections over $1,000 (including a 1962 Chateau Haut-Brion for $35,000)-and, true to steakhouse style, prices are proportionately sizeable. Porterhouse is $33.95, Alaskan king crab is $34.95, Australian lobster tail is three dollars an ounce. Sides, naturally, are extra.

Customers should expect big tabs at a place like Three Forks, but in case you’re inclined to spend conservatively, the staff here is primed to sell. You’re directed to check in when you enter for your very own brass, engraved Unicard so there will be no impediment to ordering a thousand-dollar bottle. Then, you check in with the hostess, who directs you to the bar before taking you to a table. Our waiter didn’t know much about wine, but he too seemed to have just completed a Zig Ziglar sales seminar. “May I suggest a wine?” he asked, and proceeeded to recite a standard description (medium-bodied, good balance, berries) of a wine that was priced around $90 a bottle. The appetizer special he suggested we nibble on while we looked over the menu was $14.95 per person. We declined but did try the creditable she-crab soup and a thoroughly ordinary shrimp cocktail (five shrimp for $12-you do the math).

We tried the special Three Forks pepper sirloin, which came cooked accurately-medium rare-but each bite was mealy and chewy, and the peppercorn sauce was dull, with small chunks of pepper in it-like a first-class airline sauce. The trout with pecans was a huge split filet swimming in a weak brown sauce accompanied by a few lonely roasted pecans. But we did love the salad, a mix of mesclun, red oak leaf lettuce, and sliced green apple, topped with roasted pecans and crumbly Maytag blue cheese, all lightly dressed in a sweet vinaigrette. The big portion of lumpy mashed potatoes with pepper and chives was good, too, but the side of asparagus we ordered never arrived.

The guys next to us were offered a large selection of cigars with their dessert. We (two women) were offered coffee. Weak, average coffee.

Three Forks, says the owner, is the name of the original settlement that is now Dallas. “We’re going to claim it back,” he declares. Guess the diners are financing that project.

Three Forks, 17776 Dallas Parkway, 972-267-1776. $$$.



FABULOSA!

The line of frozen margarita machines behind the bar makes Fabulosa! took like a festive laundromat. The new idea for the same difficult, frenetically decorated space that used to be Jungle Red is “Mex-Tex,” which is supposed to mean an emphasis on the Mexican side of Dallas’ favorite cuisine. We couldn’t decide which was the most authentically Mexican- the enchiladas, the fajitas, the tacos, or the grilled chicken. In fact, the only difference between Fabulosa! ’s food and standard El Fenix fare is that El Fenix’s food is belter. Fabulosa! does offer 50-cent margari-tas with dinner, but ours tasted like Fresca with no buzz attached. Like so many other Mexican restaurants, Tex or otherwise, Fabulosa! offers a menu of tequilas, and we experimented with more expensive margaritas, finally ordering one straight up with Patron Silver. It tasted a bit better-you could taste the tequila, for instance, but it still didn’t have the correct lime proportion.

The food wasn’t any better. A chili relleno looked like a reheated frozen version, big unidentifiable wads of symmetrical fried crust-the taste was as generic as the appearance. A combination of beef and chicken faji-tas was a little better, but the flautas were dessicated-as though they had been fired hours before and reheated. They required a lot of guacamole to smooth them out, but we couldn’t go mere-the stuff was suspiciouly bright green and over-unctuous. We may be paranoid, but we suspected Calavo, the frozen stuff.

To top off a thoroughly mediocre experience, the service was snooty and extremely slow for a weeknight when only a few tables were taken. Then again, if this is what the waiter’s bringing, why hurry?

Fabulosa!, 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-559-3510. $-$$.

Peggy Sue Barbecue. This ’50s-style joint in Snider Plaza is serving some of the best BBQ in town. Terrific appetizers include Texas Torpedoes-cream cheese-filled fried jalapenos. Baby back ribs, chicken, Polish kiel-basa sausage, and brisket are smoked to perfection. Vegetables, usually second-class in the macho world of meat, go first-class here. 6600 Snider Plaza, 214-987-9188.$.



Red Hat & Blue. RHB specializes in pulled pork and dry ribs-that is, Southern-style, as opposed to Texas-style, barbecue. It’s all good, though there are gimmicky touches like the fried onion loaf. The “blues” are on the walls, in the form of concert posters, and in your ears. Friendly waitstaff, 9810 N. Central Expwy., 214-368-7427; 5017 W. Piano Pkwy., Ste. 100, Piano. 972-248-3866. $.



Sammy’s Barbecue. Barbecue for the banking crowd at bankers’ hours. Everyday at lunch, Sammy’s is full of white-collar types, ties thrown over their shoulders, chowing on great red-stripe brisket, ribs, and homemade Mom-style pie. No, really-Sammy’s is a family-run enterprise, and all the Pritchards pitch in. 2126 Leonard St., 214-880-9064. $.



D BEST Sonny Bryan’s. For 40 years. Sonny Bryan’s meaty ribs, moist brisket, and classic barbecue sauce have been the standard by which all other Dallas barbecue is judged. For the classic barbecue experience, return to the original Inwood Road joint, sit on the hood of your car, and gnaw on tender smoked ribs, chopped beef, and giant onion rings. 2202 Inwood Rd., 214-357-7120; multiple locations. $.



BAKERY/SANDWICHES

Comer Bakery. Dallas has a number of excellent bakeries now, but the Comer Bakery holds its own. Country loaves are crusty, and the sweet stuff is all excellent. And the Bakery has a cafe side, serving pizza, tomato-sauced pasta, and sandwiches. 13350 N. Dallas Pkwy., Ste. 2443, 972-934-7001; multiple locations. $.

La Spiga. You may have to track down La Spiga tucked away in a warehouse area, but it’s worth it-these rustic, crusty loaves of preservative-free bread are served at many of the best restaurant; in town. But there’s plenty more being dished up here, including homemade soup, panini, quiches pizza-style focaccia, and Caesar salads. 4203 Lindberg Dr., Addison, 972-934-8730. $.

Street’s Famous Sandwiches. We are impressed by the creative combos of meats, cheeses, and vegetables, and “Gene’s Favorite” is ours, too-grilled chicken and onions with melted provolone and spicy Dijon. Sides include a cheese tortellini salad with walnuts, Chinese sesame noodles, potato salad, and coleslaw. Don’t neglect the rum cake, either. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-2505.$.



BREW PUBS

Copper Tank Brewing Company. The beer may be microbrewed, but the setting is macro. This Austin import functions as a sports bar, watering hole, and restaurant, While the beer wins awards, the food also deserves some attention. Our favorite pretzel replacement: onion rings with a zesty apple-horseradish dipping sauce. 2600 Main St., 214-744-2739. $.

Routh Street Brewery and Grill. Although the food has slipped a little, the hand-crafted brew remains some of the finest in Dallas, and an elegant hill country lodge motif with soft lighting makes it a sexy spot for a beer joint. Shy away from the wienerschnitzel; roasted pork tenderloin fares better. 3011 Routh St., 214-922-8835.$$.



BURGERS

Angry Dog. The menu is standard bar cuisine, including some great burgers, nachos, and sandwiches, but it extends to include some inspiring options. The Angry Dog-a grilled, all-beef hot dog split and served open-faced covered with grilled onions, chili, and cheese-is truly fantastic and a bargain at $4.50. For serious beer drinkers, there are 120 beers to choose from. 2726 Commerce St., 214-741-4406.$.

Balls Hamburgers. The burgers are big, weighing in at a half-pound, but the flavor is only average. However, the silver-dollar sized burgers with grilled onions and pickles are real crowd-pleasers. And a humble hot dog-smothered in chili, cheese, and chopped onions-saves the day. 3404 Rankin (Snider Plaza), 214-373-1717; 4343 W, Northwest Hwy., 214-352-2525. $.

The Prince of Hamburgers. The crispy-edged, toasty bun, the slim but beefy-tasting, just-cooked patty, and the simple but fresh garnitures combine to make the quintessential American sandwich. Prince sticks to the classic accompaniments: thick shakes, incredibly frosty root beer, fries, and fabulous onion rings, all brought to you by a real live person. 5200 Lemmon Ave.. 214-526-9081.$.



Puff’s The Hickory Grill. Servers tend to be the ’90s version of the ’50s soda jerk-baggy-jeaned teens with good intentions and no grace. But the burgers, built from half a pound of chuck, grilled and smoked over hickory, on a special, Massimo-baked bun, are good and the options are. too: cheese, bacon-mushroom, and a welcome revival of the old Goff’s hickory-sauced sandwich, livened up with jalapenos. 6112 Luther Lane, Preston Center, 214-361-6191,$. Margaritas.



Snuffer’s. The burgers and frosty brew are a sensory way-back machine for those who thought the university years were the prime of their life. They probably were, if you continue to eat things like Snuffer’s cheese fries (a basket of deep-fried strips, covered in gloriously greasy cheese), because you can’t last long if you eat this way often. 3526 Greenville Ave.. 214-826-6850; 14910 Midway Rd., Addison. 972-991-8811.$.



Texas Hamburgers. This Texas kitsch joint is filled with stuffed armadillos, Texas flags, cowboy memorabilia, good ol’ boys, and Armani-clad Design Center sophisticates. Besides great half- and third-pound burgers accompanied by fresh fixings, this place serves some great meatloaf with a tasty tomato sauce laden with celery, onions, and peppers. 1616 Market Center Blvd.. 214-747-2222. $.



CAJUN CREOLE



Crescent City Cafe. Crescent City still dishes out solid New Orleans chow in authentic French Quarter surroundings. Though the fried food can be spotty, the gumbo’s rich and the po’ boys are consistently good. 2615 Commerce St., 214-745-1900. $.



Margaux’s. Cafe Margaux owner Kay Agnew has reopened yet again, in a smaller space wearing a suitably shorter name and with a menu that includes lunch on weekdays and dinner on Thursday only, Shrimp and sausage gumbo is the real thing, and cornmeal-crusted oysters are crisp-skinned delights, 2404 Cedar Springs Rd? 214-740-1985. $$.



CHINESE



Arc-En-Ciel. The kitchen employs separate cooks for the Chinese and Vietnamese fare, but everyone really goes there to eat Vietnamese. Our last meal we ordered in a leisurely way, a few dishes at a time-pristine Imperial rolls; shrimp pounded and molded on sugarcane; grilled pork to roll in rice paper with rice noodles, cilantro, mint, lettuce, and sprouts-each dish delightful, fresh, excellent. 3555 W. Walnut St.. Garland, 972-272-2188.$-$$.



Cafe Panda. The personnel here roll out the red carpet, and the mostly excellent food reflects a meticulous attention to detail, performing some service rituals as complex as the cuisine. Stan with quail curl and watch as a team of servers performs a near-ballet in bringing it to your table. And finish with tableside French-pressed coffee. 7979Jnwood Rd.. Ste. 121, 214-902^ 9500. $-$$.

Cathy’s Pacific. Chef/nutritionist Cathy Liu continues to succeed in combining authentic Chinese, Thai, and Vietnamese techniques with healthy twists. The best dish we tried was the Szechuan Shrimp: fresh shrimp stir-fried with corn, sweet peppers, and onions lightly coated in a black bean sauce, The dishes we ordered “extra hot” were not, so if you like your food scorching, ask the kitchen to crank it up. 5950-A Royal Une at Preston, 214-739-3378. $$.

Jasmine. Ersatz nightclub ambience collides with hustle-bustle service, but freshly prepared cuisine fortunately transcends both. Exquisite Ming chicken, redolent with spices and served in a crispy cold iceberg lettuce shell, was almost a meal in itself. 4002 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-991-6867. $$.

May Dragon. An inscrutable strip center location belies one of the city’s best Chinese restaurants. Slay away from the neon sweet and sour stuff, and you’ll be happy. 4848 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-392-9998. $$.

New Big Wong. Large lunches are served here in fast-food time, but a leisurely dinner rewards experimentation. The menu is large, and largely authentic, serving a wide variety of wiggly sea creatures. The setting is plain and the service friendly. 2121 S. Greenville Ave., 214-821-4198.$.

Royal China. Royal China serves the same neighborhood clientele that has been faithfully eating here since Buck Kao and his family opened the place in 1974. Appetizers are still in peak performance-our meal began with a wonderful hot and sour soup and perfectly steamed pan-fried pork dumpling. But the General’s Chicken looked and tasted like Chicken McNuggets in a sweet orange sauce, and the moo shu pork tasted like a Taco Bell Gordita. 201 Preston Royal Center, 214-361-1771,$$.

Szechuan Pavilion. One of the top Chinese restaurants in a city with far too few to choose from. Service here is smooth and the usual Szechuan specialties are good. Pot stickers filled with juicy pork and a whole crispy fish are worth waiting for. 8409 Preston Rd., 214-368-4303. $$.

Uncle Tais Hunan Yuan. Not much has changed here over the last 15 years. Bow-tie clad waiters still formally dish out classic hot Hunan specialties tableside. Past favorites still shine: Crispy Beef with broccoli sizzling in spicy orange sauce and Uncle Tai’s Chicken flamed with jalapenos lightly coated with black bean sauce served on a bed of slightly wilted watercress. In the Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy. at LBJ. 972-934-9998. $$.

COFFEEHOUSES



Cafe Society. Dallas’ most authentic coffeehouse not only roasts its own beans but offers a comfortable but hip environment for serious discussion, flirtation, hanging out, listening to music, and feeling generally plugged-in and with it. 209 Henry St.. 214-745-1964. $.



Cafe Brazil. “Brazil” here is a coffee cue, but this cafe is not just another Java joint. The brews are varied and the laid-back attitude of all three locations make them comfortable chat rooms, but the food is better than it has to be. Breakfasts are particularly notable. 6420 N. Central Expwy., 214-691-7791; multiple locations. $.



Cosmic Cup. The counterculture’s barely made a dent in the Dallas psyche, a fact that makes Cosmic Cup almost a tourist attraction here. In other cities, there are whole neighborhoods lined with places like this. Most of the food is India-inspired, which makes vegetarian an easy philosophy-samosas, dal, curry. Good, and good for the soul. 2912 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-521-6157.$.



DELI



Gilbert’s. All you Yankees pining for the comforts of the Carnegie Deli, stop whining. The Gilbert family enters their 11th year of dishing out potato knishes, stuffed derma, and kasha varnishkas as good as any in the Big Apple. They also have a decent plate of spaghetti and meatballs for the shiksa in your group. 11661 Preston Rd? 214-373-3333.$.



EASTERN EUROPEAN



Athénée Cafe. Dallas’ only Rumanian restau- rant-are you surprised? Stuffed mountain cabbage is a fabulous signature dish-meat- ball-size beef rolls oven-roasted in delicate cabbage leaves with a red wine sauce, just like grandma in Transylvania used to make. Other highlights; Rumanian sausage and veal chop. The wine list is adequate. 5365 Spring Valley Rd? Ste. 150, 972-239-8060. $$.



ECLETIC



D BEST Bistro A. Peripatetic chef Avner Samuel’s latest venture is his ; best yet, and better yet, Bistro A looks like it’s | going to be around awhile. It’s made sleepy Snider Plaza a destination, drawing well-heeled diners in for stylish fare that’s beautifully presented. Dishes with Middle Eastern influences are especially good, but the chef does equally well will simple steak fries, and casserole-; roasted chicken could be the best bird in town. 6815SniderPlaza.214-373-9911.$$-$$$.



The Brick Room. Tables on tiers raked amphiteater-style give live jazz lovers a fine view of the bandstand in this suave food-and-jazz emporium that’s brought a new night-life dimension to Lowest Skillman. Steaks and : seafood are main menu draws; pleasant service and a well-tuned bar keep the all-aged faithful happy between sets. 1925 Skillman St., 214-823-2725.$$



Deep Ellum Cafe. The first legitimate restaurant in Deep Ellum has a lot of competition now, and though this is still one of the most pleasant places to be in downtown, sometimes the food is not so pleasant. The kitchen seems bored with the standards like chicken and dill dumplings and Vietnamese chicken salad; specials are a better bet. Sit outside if you can. 2704 Elm St., 214-741-9012.$-$$.



Dream Cafe. This Quadrangle eatery’s pastoral-in-city setting seems appropriate for the Dream Cafe’s menu, though there are those who insist that “dream” refers to the often seemingly somnolent service. The famed breakfast menu remains an intriguing blend; solid egg dishes to entice the power-breakfast crowd and granola for those who want to start the day on a more spiritual, healthful note. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St.. 214-954-0486. $$.



East Side Grill. East Side is attached at the hip- er, hep, rather-to the Barley House bar, and the bar food-nachos, quesadillas-fulfills it purpose with little fanfare. Entrées vary, but the jalapeno honey barbecue chicken is spicy, sloppy, and tasty, accompanied by scrumptious mashed potatoes and vegetables drowned in soy. The chicken-fried steak is humbly good. 2916 N.Henderson Ave., 214-828-2801.$.



8.0 Restaurant and Bar. This hip joint is still hopping with pretty people sipping blue margaritas and noshing upscale bar food like thick, 8-ounce burgers and chicken nachos. Lines are out the door at lunch and cocktail hour in the summer, and the patio is swarming with guys and girls cruising for girls and guys. Blaring music makes table conversation nearly impossible, but mural-covered walls painted by local artists make it a funky place to sit back and watch the show. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St., 214-979-0880. $-$$.



Firehouse. Chef Bruno Mello has made a three-ring circus by juggling his time in the Firehouse kitchen with time at his downtown restaurant. Champagne. As a result, the food here has slipped. The Sicilian Firehouse chicken is a fire-eaters dream when it’s not drowning in habanero sauce. Great appetizers include a whole roasted onion filled with spicy garlic and eggplant dip. 1928 Greenville Ave., 214-826-2468. $$-$$$.



Going Gourmet. This place is a delicious blend of French bistro and neighborhood favorite: small, intimate, humming with conversation. The food’s a creative melange of Continental, Mediterranean, and New American influences, and the wine you bring yourself. Call for reservations-this tiny space is packed on any given evening. 4345 W. Northwest Hwy. at Midway Road. 214-350-6135. $$-$$$.



D BEST The Grape. The secret is that Dallas’ oldest and best wine bar is really one of its oldest and best restaurants-dim and atmospheric, with a blackboard menu that remains interesting and enticing (no matter how often the chef changes), and the tiniest, most romantic bar in town. 2808 Greenville Ave., 214-828-1981. $$.



D best The Green Room. This ’90s bistro continues to dish out some of the most inventive cuisine to be found between New York and L.A. The menu is eclectically uptown, and the decor is strictly downtown rock ’n’ roll. The contrast between them is cool. At $34, the fixed-price, four-course, “Feed Me” menu is the best deal in town. 2715 Elm St., 214-748-ROOM. $$.



Mark’s on Henderson. Chef-owner Mark Jenson is an avowed one-man show in his intimate 13-table bistro. Lately we have found his food starving for attention. But when he’s in the kitchen and delegates the other restaurant responsibilities to his pleasant staff, the eclectic entrees that change daily-like sea bass and risotto-always shine. Browse the cellar and choose a bottle, or sample international wines by the glass. 2926 Henderson Ave., 214-841-0900. $$.



Piano Cafe. A feast of vegetables accompanies each meal at this suburban bistro, and most people leave with leftovers. Freshly grilled roast chicken with red pesto penne draws loyal fans. There’s a decent wine list and a winner of a dessert list. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Ste. 500. Piano, 972-516-0865. $$.



Simply Fondue. You choose one kind of cheese for your first stick-and-dip course, and the waiter does a cooking show for you tableside, mixing white wine, cheese, and a little mustard in the fondue pot. For the main course you can choose to cook in hot oil or hot broth; for dessert it’s dark or milk chocolate. It seems like an awful lot of work for a meal you’re paying someone else to cook. And not so simple. 2108 Greenville Ave., 214-827-8878. $$$.



Sipango. The Cal-Ital menu offers selections various enough to allow for grazing as well as course-by-course dining at this currently cool cafe-cum-nightspot. Service is overly amiable, with some timing lapses. Once the too-loud cocktail pianist makes way for a combo, conversation is possible and people-watching is its own entertainment. 4513 Travis St., 214-522-2411.$$.



St. Pete’s Dancing Marlin. The marlin doesn’t mean seafood, it’s just a clue that the owner likes to fish. The only seafood here is the dancing tuna sandwich; mostly, the food is simply designed to go with your beer. Beware the Diablo Tempestuous, pasta doused in fiery jalapeno-tomato sauce. It’s so hot it comes with a chaser of chocolate milk. 2730 Commerce St., 214-698-1511.$.



D BEST Tarantino’s. The overall ambience-a dark. New York cafe-shaped space dominated by a long bar-is best at night, when the slight scruffiness is hidden by dim light and the place looks avant instead of under-financed. The food goes back to the basics of Italian and Spanish cuisine, served tapas-style. The take on traditional osso buco, based on a rich, gamy lamb shank instead of veal, is food you lust after. 3611 Parry Ave., 214-821-2224. Dinner only. $$.

The Thomas Avenue Beverage Company. Chef Michael Smith serves a healthy mix of Southwest, Cajun. and New American cuisine at this old-style Uptown pub. The roast pork chop with spinach sautéed with apple butter literally melts off the bone. The menu changes weekly, based on availability of fresh ingredients. 2901 ThomasAve.,214-979-0452.$-$$.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

Addison Cafe. It’s called “Le French Bistro,” but in reality, Addison Cafe is a restaurant serving classically prepared French and New American dishes, which has kept them in business for 14 years. Tournedos of beef are cooked medium-rare and served in a textbook bordelaise sauce. A thick slab of fennel-crusted sea bass seasoned with kalamata olives is poached to perfection. And dark chocolate mousse is worth every hip-hugging calorie. 5290 Belt Line Rd.. Ste. 108 at Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-991-8824. $$.

D BEST Barclays. Don’t come to Barclays expecting to find a pint of bitters and bangers and mash. This is upper-crust English fare with a European twist. Potato ravioli stuffed with Stilton cheese and wild mushrooms is of regal status. And if you’re looking for that perfect place to “pop” the question or celebrate something special, look no further-this place is a gem. 2917 Fairmount St., 214-855-0700. $$-$$$.

Chez Gerard. Which is more to be celebrated, French thrift or French style? Skin-thin petals of veal liver, sautéed with onions and grapes in port wine sauce, become the gourmand’s liver and onions-or is it the peasant’s foie gras? Whatever. 4444 McKinney Ave.. 214-522-6865. $$-$$$.

Clair De Lune. Tucked behind some trees in the comer of a small strip of shops in Preston Royal, this cozy French country restaurant delights with delicious food and impeccable service. A classic house-made pork paté is served with diced onion, French cornichons, and mustard. Poitrine de canard, a splendidly moist duck breast, is served with a delicate port wine sauce. 5934 Royal Ln. at Preston Road, 214-987-2028.$$.

French Room. This is the prettiest dining room in Dallas. The rococo-style, cherub-flown ceiling, Versailles-length drapes, and candlelight make it the kind of place that doesn’t mesh with the modern world. It’s only natural to expect perfect food that matches the fairy-tale room. Sweetbread schnitzel is perfect, placed on a bed of asparagus ragout. Lamb ribeye is precisely matched with rosemary goat cheese polenta and tomato confit with basil, combining every Mediterranean high note in a single dish. Hotel Adolphus, 1321 Commerce St., 214-742-8200. $$$.

Jennivine. Jennivine’s slightly anachronistic atmosphere, a quaint old house stranded in the massive new Uptown apartments, still delivers one of Dallas’ most unexpected dining experiences: fine food in fine surroundings at a fair price. Appetizers and entrées alike are first-rate. If you’re not up for one of the excellent meals, enjoy a glass of wine and a sampling of cheese or one of their many patés. 3605 McKinney Ave., 214-528-6010. $$.



D BEST L’Ancestral. Let L’Ancestral remind you of traditional delights: The civilized dining room is softly lit, tables are draped in starchy white, and the menu is stubbornly, traditionally French. Begin your meal with a bowl of onion soup, about as recherché as you could get, but some ideas need no improvement. The onion tart is just as subtly good. Lamb is cooked perfectly medium rare, and steak au poivre comes with the the best, yes, French fries in town. 4514 Travis St., 214-528-1081.$$-$$$.



Lavendou. Despite the fact that our waiter didn’t know the difference between smooth and coarse pate, someone in the kitchen cooks with a French accent. Delicious French specialties come garnished a la Francaise within an inch of their life: For instance, a tender tilapia came tucked into a tutu-like frill of purple kale, decorated with two swishes and a swirl of orange red-pepper sauce. 19009 Preston Rd., 972-248-1911. $$-$$$.



Old Warsaw. Hanging on to a reputation as one of Dallas’ oldest elite restaurants is tough, but La Vieille Varsovie is valiant. It takes effort to find much fault with the food-from appetizers to dessert, the meal is an anachronistic treat. Servers, however, are only acceptably pleasant. 2610 Maple Ave., 214-528-0032. $$$.



D BEST The Pyramid Room. That overused word, opulence, must be hauled out again-the Fairmont Hotel’s flagship restaurant demands it. Here is service and ambience that beggar less extravagant description. The food, too, deserves superlatives. You can hardly ask for more cosseting at any price than that provided by this serenely cosmopolitan restaurant. Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N. Akard St., 214-720-5249. $$$.

St. Martin’s. Rich paneling, soft-lit paintings, and touches of muted gold update the famous romantic setting; live music shapes the proper evening mood; and the food delivers sophisticated fulfillment. The by-the-glass wine selection is broad, and service strikes the correct balance between attention and discretion. 3020 Greenville Ave.. 214-826-0940. $$.

Waters. Sure, you’ll find weird organ meats like calves’ brains doctored with capers and veal kidneys touched with mushrooms to satisfy the strand of old-world gastronomic esoterica that quivers in your palate. But you’ll also find exquisite contrasts like delicate rare tuna coated with crunchy peppercorns and tightly structured grilled shrimp with red pepper coulis– all served in a crisp, clean space. 2719 McKinney Ave., 214-720-0323. $$.



GOURMET TO GO

Bon Vivant Market. Longtime Dallas chef Dan O’Leary is the food mind behind this all-purpose market. Bon Vivant has plenty of room to navigate a basket around the central island filled with prepared meals (veal rneatloaf, lasagna), past the bakery (crusty Euro-country loaves), to the grill area (juicy chicken skewers) and sandwich bar. Plus, there’s a real wine department and tables for eating in. 1801 Preston Rd., Piano, 972-818-1177. $-$$.

City Harvest This neighborhood favorite is open every day and serves real morning food. Downtowners take note: Oak Cliff is easy for lunch (buy a bag of Zapp’s chips and a triple chocolate chunk cookie to go with the pesto chicken salad deluxe sandwich), and you can pick up dinner to go while you eat. 939 N.Edgefield Ave., 214-943-2650.$-$$.

Eatzi’s. Eatzi’s definitely lives up to its circus hype. Hear the strains of opera and waltz through the crowds collecting die already cooked makings of a gourmet dinner- down to the imported beer, fresh bread, and flowers. Or choose salads or sandwiches made to order. Checkout lines are infamously long. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-1515. $$$.

Izmir Deli. Dallas’ new fascination with Middle Eastern food means there have been long lines at Cafe Izmir since it opened. You can avoid those crowds now by ordering in from the Izmir to go. just down Greenville from the original cafe. Gyros, tenderloin, mozzarella, grilled vegetable, and chicken sandwiches, pita, hummus, couscous, and eggplant dip are all available for pick-up or phone-in orders. And this is the place to go if you need rosewa-ter at 9:00 at night. 3607 Greenville Ave., 214-824-8484. $-$$.



Marty’s Cafe TuGogh. Marty’s latest version of its wine bar has changed everything but the name. And the food-there was never a problem with that. At night, when the blond, light-filled Cafe TuGogh features full table service, it’s on its way to becoming one of the best little bistros in town. 3316 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-4070. $-$$.



Sigel’s Fresh Market. Besides the stellar cheese counter, dozens of kinds of imported pasta, great selection of olive oils, and other gourmet comestibles, the little deli adjoining Sigel’s liquor store sells perhaps the best roast chicken to go in town-and it’s a deal, too. 15003 Inwood Rd., 972-387-9804. $.



GREEK



Kostas Cafe. The food is simply Greek and simply good. Appetizer do’s: saganaki and dolmas (musts, really). Entrée don’t: souvlaki (tough and chewy). 4914 Greenville Ave.. 214-987-3225. $$.



D BEST Zizikl’s. You can hardly get a prime-time table at this contemporary Greek cafe, and they don’t take reservations, except for large parties. But the herbed lamb souvlaki, folded in thick warm pita and sauced with tart yogurt, is worth a wait. Ziziki’s menu has featured the same idio-syncratic version of Mediterranean food since it opened-it’s a good thing when some things don’t change. 4514 Travis St., Ste. 122.214-521-2233.$$.



HOME COOKING



Barbec’s. Barbec’s regulars love the tabloid newsprint menu, the hearty, what-canget-you-Hon? waitresses, the awesome anytime breakfasts. The food ranges from pretty good to good, but it’s all cheap, And they’ve always got those legendary beer biscuits, sweet and high and truly loved by all. Great meringues. 8949 Garland Rd.. 214-321-5597. $.



Celebration. Bring your appetite to this longtime mecca for Dallas home-cooking purists. ; Entrées run die gamut from broiled fresh fish t pot roast to fried chicken, all accompanied by an endless supply of vegetables. Don’t worry i | your entrée seems small-you can reorder as i often as you wish. 4503 W. Lovers Ln., 214-351-5681. $.



DC’s Cafe. You’ve been in powder rooms bigge than this super-clean little place, but you’ve had home cooking this fine only in your : dreams of classic soul-food plate lunches at penny-ante prices. Pork chops, meatloaf, catfish et al. come with three sides; business is about half-and-half eat-in and takeout, and we’ve never seen the room empty of patrons. 8224 Park Ln., 214-363-4348. $.



Poor Richard’s Cafe. Honest home-cooked food, featuring a huge spread of the one meal Mom told you never to leave home without-breakfast. 2442 Ave. K at Park Boulevard, Piano, 972-423-1524. $.



INDIAN



D BEST Bombay Cricket Club. Lunch buffets are an Indian restaurant tradition, and Bombay Cricket Club’s lineup is excellent. A pretty setting, unfailingly polite service, and excellent food make this one of the top Indian restaurants in town. The quality is steady at lunch, which for some restaurants seems to be a time not to try very hard. 2508 Maple Ave.. 214-871-1333. $-$$.



India Palace. Delicate spices imbue truly fine Indian cuisine- And, similar to a fine perfume, too much is an assault on the senses, too little and there’s no magic. India Palace has kept the proper balance for nearly a decade and shows no signs of slowing down. 12817 Preston Rd., Ste. 105, 972-392-0190. $-$$.



ITALIAN



D REVISITS Alessio’s. We can only assume our Banana Republic attire wasn’t good enough for the main dining room because when we arrived (albeit without a reservation) the hostess steered us away from the elegantly dressed main dining room and seated us in the side room next to the bar. Alone. We felt like we were sitting in coach and all the waiters were busy in first class. So, despite being an arm’s length away from the chardonnay, it took 10 minutes to get a glass. The minestrone left our lastebuds bored, but not as bored as our server, who disappeared after the first course. She finally brought us our entrées: pasty fettucine with undercooked pieces of chicken and flavorless veal piccata. Alessio’s has an established reputation for being a highbrow, sophisticated Italian ristorante. Not from where we were sitting. Next time we’ll wear our Escada-if we make a better impression on Alessio’s, maybe Alessio’s will make a better impression on us. 4117 Lomo Alto Dr., 214-521-3585.$$-$$$.



Alfonso’s. The menu touches on all the basics, and the house marinara and buttery rolls have held a rapt following for years. An appetizer of artichoke hearts gently warmed in lemon-butter is simply transporting. Lake Highland Village, 718 N. Buckner Blvd. at Northcliff Dr., 214-217-7777.$.



Angelo’s Italian Grill. When you think of classic Italian favorites, what triggers your Pavlovian response? Lasagna? Spaghetti? Scampi? Chicken parmesan? Pizza? This homey place has il all. Each meal comes with a Caesar salad and out-of-the-oven garlic rolls. The wine list is extensive, even by the glass. 634! La Vista Dr., 214-823-5566.$.

Arcodoro. The bar’s always loud and crowded, and if you want to pick up pizza instead of people, you’ll be an anomaly here. It’s too bad, because the food is quite good. The salads are nicely dressed, the pizzas are thin with big bubbling brown crusts, and the special, a pork chop with sage, is good, too. The only problem is, the prices seem steep for bar food. And that’s what Arcodoro feels like. 2520 Cedar Springs, 214-871-1924. $$-$$$.

Campisi’s Egyptian. it’s dark, outdated, and frankly, a dump. The food is predictable and mostly pedestrian, except the famous pizza. But all an institution has to do in order to succeed is endure, Dallas loves Campisi’s and has for decades. Cash or check only. 5610 E. Mockingbird Ln., 214-827-0355. $.

lano’s. The menu is priced per portion and per “la familia.” And it’s thoroughly Italian in that a “la familia” platter is plenty for a family, including parents, several children, grandparents. Vitello Pugliese, for example, is thickly breaded slices of veal, smothered in tomato sauce allegedly enriched with goat cheese and loaded with purple kalamata olives. 250 Spanish Village, 972-866-0888. $$.

Isola Gozo. The parking lot just doesn’t help the ambience. But the best you could hope for from a restaurant in NorthPark is some retail compatibility. Thin-crusted pizza is always the star-a perfectly proportioned layering of bread and topping, just held together with cheese. The fare at Isola Gozo is sophisticated and good and deserves a better setting. The Market, NorthPark Center, Park Lane at Central Expressway, 214-691-0488. $$.

La Dolce Vita. Lakewood’s favorite wood-burning oven is as comfortable a place for pizza and wine as it is for pastry and coffee. The high-ceilinged room with tall windows is a good place to linger if the crowds don’t push you out. Service is unpretentious and friendly; pizzas and pastas are good but not weird. 1924 Abrams Pkwy., 214-821-2608.$-$$.

D BEST Mi Piaci. At all times, these hip-per-than-hip rooms are rilled with people who look like they just stepped off the fashion pages. The menu focuses on classic Tuscan cuisine, with homemade pasta, made-to-order risotto, and superb breads. You’ll always see waiters expertly deboning the tender Dover sole for savvy diners. Our only complaint: The noise level can get pretty high. 14854 Montfort Dr., 972-934-8424. $$.

D BEST Modo Mio. Here is a “labor of D BEST Modo Mio. Here is a “labor of love” restaurant that has overcome the obstacle of doing business in an ugly strip mall by serving some of the best Italian food in town. Chef/owner Rino Brigliadori turns out deliciously plump gnocchi lightly coated in tomato sauce, and his simple seafood spe-cials are always perfectly prepared. 18352 Dallas Pkwy., Ste. 112, 972-671-MODO. $$.

Pomodoro. The white-tiled walls and floors and odd faucet-like lighting of this trendy dining spot give this Cedar Springs mainstay showerlike appeal. But this doesn’t take away from the charm of the little garlic trees that sit in the windows or the fresh flowers that grace each table. As for the food, Pomodoro deserves applause for consistent innovation. 2520 Cedar Springs Rd.. 214-871-1924.$$.



D REVISITS Rodolfo’s. Rodolfo’s could be any Italian restaurant in any town, which is why it’s a perfect neighborhood restaurant. There’s no pretension, no one is trying to impress-they’re just trying to serve. The space is a patched-together series of rooms decorated in a collection of styles: Nouveau-etched glass frescoes, Victorian swagged drapes, and Polynesian chairs. But the service is welcoming, even thoughtful, which makes up for a lot that’s lacking in food and decor. Spinach balls are the dish to order here. Dumplings of ricotta and spinach (yes, it’s probably frozen) are scented with nutmeg and served over pasta. It’s American ’50s Italian style, as is the hefty, overly meaty lasagna and the average chicken parmigiana. Our spinach salad came doused in a vinegar dressing, and when we left it basically untouched, our waiter took it off the bill without a complaint from us. That’s why we like Rodolfo’s in spite of itself. 5956 Royal Ln., 214-368-5039.$$.



Ruggeri’s. It could be that success at its newer Addison spinoff has cost the Uptown original its reputation for dependably line Italian dining. The formerly flawless food has been less consistent lately: The veal chop was huge and tender, but zabaglione was not too much more than Broth. The crowd is festive as always. 2911 Routh St. 214-871-7377; 5348 Belt Line Rd, 972-726-9555. $$-$$$.



Terilli’s. A Lower Greenville fixture, Terilli’s packs in a semi-sophisticated crowd for such-as-it-is jazz and an eclectic menu featuring the signature item with the silly name: “Italcho’s” (crisp chips of pizza dough topped with moz-zarella and a choice of toppings). Food ranges from pretty good to so-so, but devotees find thai Terilli’s is more than the sum of its parts. 2815 Greenville Ave., 214-827-3993. $$.



Toscana. You’ll gladly pay top dollar for Executive Chef David Holben’s fancy versions of Tuscan-based dishes. Appetizers alone are worth the visit: Pan-seared, lemon-thyme calamari is light and delicious, and lightly creamed grilled corn soup with toasted pine nuts is reminiscent of the hearty Tuscan soups of Florence, Indulge in tiramisu bread pudding with a Frangelico anglaise sauce. 4900 McKinney Ave.. 214-521 -2244. $$.



Vitto’s. The menu attempts several ambitious dishes-including some veal preparations-but most people stick to the pasta and pizza. We like the “different” pizzas: one topped with spinach, goat cheese, and red peppers; the other with garlic, spinach, bacon, and pepperoni. 316 W. 7th St., 214-946-1212.$-$$.

JAPANESE



Chaya. Cold beer and warm, salted edamame- so much better than pretzels-will make you happy to start. Sushi is consistently good, even the beginner sushi rolls: Rich salmon skin centers contrast nicely with the very sticky rice. For non-sushi lovers, the skewers from the robata-yaki (grill) are good, especially the chicken chunks of moist thigh meat and cubes of succulent swordfish. 101 Preston Royal Shopping Center, 214-361-0220.$$.



D BEST Nakanwto. Service tends to range from sublime to abrupt at this stylish, roomy Piano institution, but cuisine (tempura, sushi, and sashimi) remains uniformly excellent. 3309 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Road, Piano, 972-881 -0328. $$.



Rock & Roll Sushi. Rock ’n’ roll is here to stay, and obviously, so is sushi. Rock & Roll Sushi’s California concept is part fish, part gimmick. Around the circular bar is a stream with a flotilla of lacquered boats bearing sushi. The things we like best are the least traditional, and at lunch, the bento boxes are a good deal. 6109-B Berkshire Ln., 214-987-1966. $$-$$$.



Sushi on McKinney. One of the first sushi bars in Dallas to cash in on the ’80s notion that sushi is cool. Sushi on McKinney remains a popular stop for everything from introductory hand rolls to more esoteric Eastern concoctions. And, somehow, the scene here has stayed cool, even in the un-hip ’90s. 4502 McKinney Ave., 214-521-0969.$-$$.



Sushi at The Stoneleigh. Sedate for a sushi spot, with more of the civilized pace of the old hotel than the faster rhythms of a typical sushi bar. Still, the fish is fine. We especially like the special Stoneleigh sushi. 2917 Maple Ave.,214-871-7111.$$-$$$.



Sushi Sake. Sushi Sake is half-hidden in a Fleetwood Square strip that we’d call hard to find if so many aficionados weren’t finding it. Many of them are admirers from chef-owner Takashi Soda’s former days as sushi chef of Nakamoto in Piano, and they find here a warmly upbeat ambience, willing attendance to every need, an arresting selection of sakes, hot and cold-and of course, good food. 220 W. Campbell Rd.. 972-470-0722. $$.



D BEST Teppo. Our only yakitori bar is also one of the city’s most exciting sushi bars and a favorite weekend date destination as well. High-energy atmosphere, highly chic modem decor, and high-quality food make this one of Dallas’ best Japanese restaurants, even though the menu is mostly skewers and sushi. Be sure to try the specials. 2014 Greenville Ave., 214-826-8989. $$-$$$.



LATIN AMERICAN



Fogo de Chao. A churrascaria in Addison with branches in Porto Alegre and Sao Paulo, Fogo de Chao serves traditional cookery from south-em Brazil, starting with the caipirinha (a little like a sweet margarita, with cachaca, a sugar cane liquor). Overwhelming abundance is the theme: A neverending parade of meat on long skewers is delivered by gaucho guys in amazing trousers and belts. Very exotic. 4300 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-503-7300. $$.

Gloria’s. Everyone’s favorite Oak Cliff restaurant has opened yet another branch, this time on already overloaded Greenville. There’s the inevitable streetside al fresco scene with mar-garitas and nachos on every table, but the glory of Gloria’s was, is now, and ever shall be its Salvadoran menu, available at every location, Don’t miss the pupusas (cheese-stuffed com tortillas) or the banana leaf tamales. 3715 Greenville Ave., 214-874-0088; multiple locations. $-$$.



MEDITERRANEAN

Adelmo’s. Some go for the food, some go for the intimacy, but almost everybody finds a reason to go back to this well-hidden gem. Service is unhurried and patient, and the wine list varied and reasonable. Entrees and appetizers alike feature creatively bold sauces that will hold your attention long after the main ingredients of the dishes had been devoured. 4537 Cole Ave., 214-559-0325.$$.



D REVISITS The Bistro. Our Mediterranean-inspired seafood bouillabaisse was a beautiful bowl of saffron-infused broth tilled with chunks of fennel, couscous, white beans, and delicate bites of tuna, shrimp, and scallops. Coarse pork paté with whole cherries baked into it was wrapped around a pork tenderloin, and the fruit and meat was perfectly complemented by red onion confit and créole mustard dip-ping sauce-a refreshing take on the standard cornichons and dijon, to the same sweet-tart effect. The list of small plates at this tapas bistro has been pared down to fourteen from thirty selections, but they’re all exciting, and the wine list is one of the most extensive and inexpensive in town. It offers more than 100 wines, only a handful over $60; most bottles are in the $20 to $40 range. That means the Bistro caters to you-you can drop in for a few small plates and a bottle of wine or settle in for a full-course meal at a reasonable price. The room is relaxed and casual, and we set the service pace, eating a leisurely meal on a busy night. 5405 W. Lovers Ln. at Inwood Rd., 214-352-1997. $-$$.



Mediterraneo. The Quadrangle location will probably be the prototype for future Mediterraneos. It’s a pretty restaurant, stylishly minimalist but surprisingly warm and welcoming, and the food-a balance of old and new ideas-is hard to find fault with. Crusts are all the rage: Halibut is mysteriously crab crusted, salmon has a polenta crust, and lamb is crusted with goat cheese. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St.. 214-979-0002; 18111 Preston Rd. at Frankford Road. Ste. 120, 972-447-0066. $$-$$$.



D REVISITS PoPoLo’s. The ownership of this neighborhood restaurant has changed, but the food seems to have stayed the same: mediocre Mediterranean-inspired pizza, pastas, and mix-and-match meats and sauces. We hoped that the Foodstar group (which also owns both Mediterraneo’s and Toscana) would make big improvements, but instead our dinner was a big disappointment. We ordered chicken and mushroom ravioli and received instead a tower of lasagna stacked high and round with smoked chicken, portabellos, and gruyère. Too tall, too rich, too cold. Our server apologized for the mistake, but when the bill came we were charged for the lasagna, which we hadn’t ordered and didn’t want. An herb-crusted pork tenderloin was dry inside and charred outside, and the rosemary-garlic glaze was nothing special. Pizza used to be the standby here, but when Marco’s is right across the street, you have to try harder than this. Pizza is the only tolerable thing, and it isn’t as good as it used to be.707 Preston Royal Shopping Center, 214-692-5497.$-$$.

D BEST The Riviera. We knew the moment an airy avocado cream hors d’oeuvre passed our lips that we were doomed, once again, to a near-flawless dining experience. Each dish seems to outdo another. Food credits here mostly belong to Chef de Cuisine Frank Harris, one assumes, with input from David Holben, now executive chef at sibling restaurants Méditerranée and Toscana. 7709 Inwood Rd., 214-351-0094. $$$.



MEXICAN

Avila’s. The create-your-own enchiladas are always a good idea, and the chili relteno reminds us why we like this family-owned place. Stuffed with cheese and topped with a delicious ranchera sauce, the peppers are left unbreaded so the pungent flavor of the pepper is what you notice, not fried batter, 4714 Maple Ave., 214-520-2700. $.

Casa Navarro. This little cafe in a former 7-Eleven specializes in the same unpretentious, cheesy fare we used to love before Tex-Mex became chic.The beer is bring-your-own, and on Wednesdays the enchilada plate is $3.75 all day long. Sopapillas, once the darling dessert at every Tex-Mex joint, are still handmade, light, and greaseless, such a surprisingly elegant finish to the meal that we wished we’d brought our demi-tasse, too. 11742-A Marsh Lane at Forest, 972-357-0141.$.

Casa Rosa. There’s almost always a table available at pink-tinted Casa Rosa, but only because the place is so big. The appeal of the food would pack a smaller place. Casa Rosa does well with standards-except the chimi-changa-but the finds here are the more unusual dishes like goat cheese chile relleno and mushroom enchiladas. 165 Inwood Village, 214-350-5227.$.



Chuy’s. Dallas’ most frenzied dining scene, if you can call this “dining.” The frenetically zany decor induces an attentional deficit and the food is competent Tex-Mex, but the herds of elbow-bending college students can be daunting if you’re over 30 or are indisposed to dine in a den. Din. Whatever. 4544 McKinney Ave., 214-559-2489. $.



Dos Charros. This is food for people who break into a sweat at the sight of a habanero chile. The extensive menu has plenty of seafood choices and healthful options added to the list of traditional favorites. 108 University Village Shopping Center. Belt Line and Piano roads, 972-783-7671. S.Margaritas.



El Norte. The decor varies from the authentic look of specials painted directly on the walls to cheesy plastic flamingos in the flower boxes, but some solidly good food comes out of the kitchen. This is a great family spot with a reasonable, all-you-can-eat special. 2205 W. Parker Rd., Piano, 972-596-6783. $. Margaritas.

Herrera’s. In the early ’70s, we used to grab a six-pack and line up on the sidewalk around the original Alamo-like Herrera’s on Maple Avenue waiting for one of nine tables and a No. 10: one tostada with guacamole, one cheese enchilada, and a soft cheese taco. Twenty-five years and six locations later, they continue to serve the same No. 10, along with other reliable Tex-Mex favorites, in tacky surroundings. 4001 Maple Ave., 214-528-9644; 5427 Denton Dr., 214-630-2599; multiple locations. $. Margaritas in some locations.

Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Javier’s lives up to its own high standards. Entrées range from excellent seafood dishes to tender cabrito, though some regulars never stray from the legendary filet Durango. 4912 Cole Ave,, 214-521-4211.$$.

La Calls Doce. Far from slicker Belt Line and Greenville Avenue eateries, this old house is home to some seriously good Mexican-style seafood. Sit on the porch and dine on a spicy gazpacho-like octopus cocktail served in huge goblets or shrimp, stuffed with crabmeat, covered with chili con queso and tasting much better than it sounds. 415 W. 12th St., 214-941-4304.$-$$.

Las Cazuelas. This tiny East Dallas jewel serves up marvelous food, starting with the killer salsa that’s made with fresh cilantro, onion, and tomato essences. On Mondays, the special caldo de res, chunky with beef and vegetables, is fabulous, as is the super-hot chile relleno. 4933 Columbia Ave.. 214-827-1889. $.



La Valentina. A taste of big city Mexico in suburbia. The beautiful menu makes fascinating reading that doesn’t always translate to the plate. The polio en mole poblano tops chicken with a sensuous sauce that includes 54 types of chilies, spices, and a touch of chocolate, result-ing in a richly layered smoky-sweet flavor. Forget that fascinating menu when it’s time for dessert and ask for the flan. 14866 Montfort Dr., Addison, 972-726-0202.$$.



Martin’s Cocina. The kitchen here does magic things with seafood (shrimp especially) and affers a listing of entrées that weigh in at less than 1,000 calories each, including the four whiles rellenos. But only skimp if you want to-the most basic combination plate starts with a lettuce-topped chalupa, its toasty tortilla thickly spread with guacamole. 7726 Ferguson Rd., 214-319-8834, $-$$.



Mattito’s. Matt Martinez Jr. himself doesn’t have anything to do with Mattito’s, but he did develop the recipes, and those didn’t change when he left. So the chile relleno and griddled flautas are excellent. The service is snappy, and what it lacks in charm, it makes up for in efficiency. 5290 Belt Line Rd. at Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-503-8100; 4311 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-8181.$.



D BEST Matt’s Rancho Martinez. The place is filled with the faithful at every meal because the flautas are the best in Dallas, the chile relleno is food for the gods, and even a combination plate satisfies, if you don’t mind processed cheese. 6332 La Vista Dr., 214-823-5517. $-$$.



Mia’s. For 14 years, this venerable institution has dished up definitive Tex-Mex food to addicts who stand in line on Tuesdays, when owner Ana Enriquez satisfies their lust for her incomparable chiles rellenos. Other days, they make do with house specialties. Service is cheerful; the setting is no-frills comfortable. The bad news: beer and wine only. 4322 Lemmon Ave., 214-526-1020. $.



D BEST Monica Aca Y Alla. This cool place has been around long enough to be a tradition in these days of restaurants that open and close-especially in Deep Ellum. The ambitious menu offers intriguing Southwestern-inspired options as well as more standard Tex-Mex, in a hip and hopping ambience. Best lunch deals in town. 2914 Main St., 214-748-7140.$$.



Nuevo Leon. Excellent Mex-Mex food in a comfortable old Greenville Avenue location draws a mixed crowd but enthusiastic reviews. Cabrito is good, mole is excellent, carnitas are the best. 2013 Greenville Ave., 214-887-8148; 12895 Josey Ln., 972-488-1984. $-$$.

Omega’s. It’s easy to imagine ending evenings at Omega’s. But fortunately Omega’s is also a great place to lunch, and it’s even a comfortable place to eat alone. This friendly little cafe on a Deep Ellum side street serves a complimentary cup of chile con queso with the warmed salsa and tostados. There’s nothing particularly original about the menu, but the basic cheese-oozing enchilada plate is pure comfort food. 212 N, Crowdus St., 214-744-6842. $.

Pepe & Mito’s. The vivid walls and bright lights mean this cafe looks noisy even though it’s not usually crowded. Il should be-chips worth mentioning (thick, warm, slightly overcooked), cilantro-laced salsa, and standards like nachos and enchiladas are excellent. Tamales are utterly remarkable, and chicken and beef taquitos are still some of the best in town. 2935 Elm St., 214-741-1901. $. Margaritas.

Plano Tortilla Factory. If you live in Piano, then this little place should be on the top of your list for a quick bite, takeout, or delivery. Piano Tortilla Factory’s appeal doesn’t end with the food-the friendly owner is quick to strike up a conversation and make you feel welcome. Low prices are a bonus, too. 1009 E. 18th St., Piano. 972-423-6980. $.

Primo’s. On the “Mex” side of the Tex-Mex fare, enchiladas came with cheddar cheese gurgling in thick chili con came and topped with more cheese. Our cheese-fest continued with a “Tex” version of a chili relleno: a cheese-stuffed poblano pepper, dipped in a queso and egg batter, then deep-fried. The amount of money the kitchen spends on cheese could probably put a man on the moon-there is even grated cheese on the side salads. We ate it all. 14905 Midway. Addison, 972-661-2287; 3309McKinney.214-220-0510.$.



Rafa’s. One Dallas institution replaced another when Raphael’s (now Rafa’s) opened in Mr. Peppe’s old space on Lovers Lane. The arched brick wine cellar is bright orange, and the pastoral Swiss view has been replaced by pictures of many Aztec gods and one happy tomato. The place could still use a few velvet paintings, but the tablescape is complete: Light, fresh chips. vinegary salsa, and fast margaritas are the intra to a meal that’s quintessential Dallas Mexican. 5617 W. Lovers Ln., 214-357-2080. $-$$.



Rodolffo’s. Start with the home-fried chips, huge half-tortilla rounds served with a full-bodied salsa. Then try the Big Tex-Mex dinner or the Number 0 (yes. they start numbering at zero). The star on the Number 0 plate is the Idaho enchiladas made of. yes, mashed potatoes, pleasantly spiced and available with a choice of seven different sauces. 2002 S. Edgefield Ave., 214-942-1211.$.



Sol’s. The low-key goal here seems to be to offer pretty good Mexican food in a pretty comfortable place to folks who live pretty close. Sol’s has found a niche where old-fashioned combination plates–oozing enchiladas, rich chili gravy, deep fried flautas, and lush guacamole- are all that’s required. Nachos come with a pile of sliced jalapenos, margaritas have plenty of tequila, and the set is tuned to Mexican TV. Really, what more do you want on a Sunday evening? 6434 Mockingbird, 214 821-7911. $-$$.



Taco Diner. The name sounds slightly retro. But the tacos at the Diner are real Mexican soft tacos, not drive -through, crunchy, greasy Tex-Mex mutations. The corn tortillas are the star here: no matter what you wrap them around, the result is good-chicken with cojita cheese, grilled pork, and meaty mushrooms are all complemented by the fragrant masa tortillas. 4011 Villanova, 214-696-4944. $. margaritas.



MIDDLE EASTERN



Al-Amir. The Mediterranean meets the rising sun at Al Amir, which took the place of a Japanese restaurant. The result is an odd. melting-pot ambience. Concentrate on the plate-Middle Eastern expectations are well-met with good renditions of hummus, baba ghanoush, and lamb. But there are also some less well-known dishes to try. 7402 Greenville Ave., 214-739-2647.$$.



Ali Baba. Order hummus and you get a bowl swirled with the garlicky purée, pooled with yellow olive oil, dusted with parsley and adorned with slick olives. That and a stack of hot pita could do you, but the grilled chicken is irresistible, and the tabbouleh, mostly chopped parsley with bits of bulgur and tomato, is a perfect counterpoint to the unctuous chickpea mash. 1905 Greenville Ave., 214-823-8235.$-$$.

Cafe Istanbul. The tiny kitchen overachieves on most of its Turkish dishes, especially if you like it spicy. The dining room gets cozy at night, but those who tolerate early evening daylight are rewarded with a happy hour. Solid service tops off a superb all-around experience. 5450 W. Lovers Ln., Ste. 222, 214-902-0919. $-$$.

D BEST Cafe Izmir. This remains one of the best little restaurants in Dallas. The space is small, the service is friendly, and the choices are simple-all you have to say is “meat” or “veg,” and the food starts coming. The mezes platter-hummus, baba ghanoush, and Russian chicken salad, all designed to spread on warm pita bread-is a regular. Wash it down with a bottle of the Boutari and you’ll be happy. 3711 Greenville Ave., 214-826-7788.$$$.

Hedary’s. George Hedary is back with a comfortable clone of the Fort Worth original, menu and all, in North Dallas. Order the menu’s maza appetizer and you’ll get a dozen sampler starters. And tiny cups of Lebanese coffee keep you awake on the drive home. 7915 Belt Line Rd., 972-233-1080. $$.



MAROCCAN

D BEST Marrakesh. Just what is Moroccan cuisine, and what is it doing in Dallas? It is lamb and couscous and fresh vegetables spiced with mysterious combi-nations of nutmeg, paprika, and cumin-wonderful. The Moroccan Feast-a sample of almost everything on the menu-is a bargain at $25.95 per person. Vibrant Middle-Eastern music accompanies a veiled belly dancer in a purple bra who gyrates and finger-cymbales her way around the room. 5207 W. Lovers Ln., 214-357-4104.$$.



NEW AMERICAN

Antares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-high, revolv-ing restaurant appears to be finding its wings at last. Huge sea scallops were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes and shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a roasted shallot vinaigrette. Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion Blvd., 214-651-1234. $$$.

Beau Nash. The genteel bustle of a world-class hotel makes dinner at this restaurant seem like a special occasion. Good picks: a portobello tart or moist-hearted Atlantic salmon. Bad pick: a salad of Belgian endive and unforgivably dry and yellow mache. Service throughout is immaculate and thoughtful. Hotel Crescent Court, 2215 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-871-3240.

City Cafs. This California-inspired, mostly family-run cafe opened over a dozen years ago but remains in the top tier of Dallas restaurants. The charming but dim dining room is furnished with cottage antiques, and the food is classic, with a wake-up flash of invention. Fresh tomato basil soup is famous. The service is confident and careful, and the American wine list is one of the best in town. 5757 W. Lovers Ln., 214-351-2233.$$.



Dakota’s. The pad of paper and pen beside the plate are the first clue to Dakota’s lunchtime target. That’s if you didn’t notice the standard lunchtime uniforms around every table-pinstripes preferred. The menu is correspondingly conservative, focusing on grilled meats and predictable pastas, with imaginative New American touches on some dishes, like the venison sausage in the quesadillas and the tortilla crust on the halibut. For a business meal, though, the noise level needs to come way down. 600 N. Akard St., 214-740-4001. $$.



Gershwin’s. Pretty people, pretty food, pretty prices set the scene for power lunching in this California-influenced Upper Greenville emporium, where on-track careerists linger over creative fare noontimes and gather after work to share single malts, tall foods, and to people-watch. An outstanding wine list, too. 8442 Walnut Hill Ln., 214-373-7171. $$-$$$.



Landmark Restaurant. Landmark’s menu may make you wish for an alias and a thesaurus to find your way around, but if you’ll close your eyes, forget about the origin of your vegetables, and eat them, you’ll have a great trip. The New American food here, under the direction of Jim Anile, is ultra-imaginative, if highly complicated. And the gently refurbished room remains one of the most gracious in town, In the Melrose, 3015 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-521-5151.$$-$$$.



D BEST Laurels. Rising star executive chef and general manager Danielle Custer brings her cutting-edge cuisine to Sheraton Park Central’s 20th floor. Incomprehensible dishes like pear soup with plum wine crème fraiche don’t make sense until you put them in your mouth. You have to trust Custer: She thinks with her palate, and the results are brilliant. Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr.. 972-385-3000.$$$.



The Mansion on Turtle Creek. This isn’t dinner, it’s a dining experience. A dramatic, country club-like, members-only dining experience. The Grande Dame of Dallas dining lives up to its legend-the atmosphere is inimitably posh, the food is predictably innovative. The price? If you have to ask, you can’t afford it. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd.,214-526-2121.$$$.

Nana Grill. The new menu broadens Nana’s focus from Southwestern to Regional American. Service is supremely suave and caring, the accoutrements define luxe, and the ambience is as comfortably refined as always in this upscale establishment. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel Tower, 2201 Stemmons Frwy., 214-761-7479.$$$.



Rooster. The room is as easily gracious as a family dining room. And the staff offers naturally Southem-style hospitality. The traditional Senate bean soup is authentic-substantial and scented with smoky ham-and the breadbasket is filled with com muffins and bacon biscuits. The catfish, thick and white as cake, is crusted with molasses and pecans, then sauced with brown butter. 3521 Oak Grove Ave., 214-521-1234. $$$.



Sevy’s. The thoroughly American Prairie-style interior perfectly complements chef-owner Jim Severson’s hearty American cuisine. The plates here present classic ideas with imaginative updates. The menu is varied, but beef is a reliable choice-the tenderloin is slightly hickory smoked. The marinated mushroom appetizer is the best portobello in town. 8201 Preston Rd., 214-265-7389.$$.

SEAFOOD

D BEST Aquaknox. phan Pyles’ swanky seafood spot has commanded national attention, and the swell decor and meticulous food mostly merit it. Luscious red snapper in red curry masa is an example of the global approach to seafood. The rich and the wannabes are sipping bright blue Aquatinis in the elegant lounge, eating from a simpler menu that includes platters of fresh shrimp. oysters, clams, and small-plate versions of the dinner entrées, an excellent option for those who want a taste of the high life without the high tab.3214 Knox St.,2l4-2I9-2782.$$$.



Big Fish, Little Fish. King cake, a patty of crawfish, crab, and shrimp, is fine, when it’s not overwhelmed by the mustard sauce that stripes it. And the Boston chowder is overwhelmed by the aroma of bacon. The simple stuffed snapper, a filet spread with a mixture similar to the king cake and baked, is better-a real stick-to-your-ribs dish, especially with the sides of mashed potatoes and ram. 2918 Henderson, 214-821-4552. $$-$$$.

Cafe Pacific. Cafe Pacific continues to delight as one of Dallas’ most reliable luncheon and dinner restaurants, as well as the place to witness the social structure of Dallas’ power people in action. Menu favorites like calamari, clam chowder, Caesar salad, salmon, and red snapper are superbly prepared and presented by an experienced waitstaff. 24 Highland Park Village. 214-526-1170. $$-$$$.

Daddy Jack’s. Chef Jack Chaplin’s tiny restaurant with its casual, cozy atmosphere is perfect for a date or for breezing in after a day at the lake, But forget about atmosphere. What we’re really talking about is fantastic, though richly prepared, seafood. Also worth noting are die relaxed, efficient service and fair prices: The experience is worth every penny. 1916 Greenville Ave., 214-826-4910; multiple locations. $$.

Daddy Jack’s Wood Grill. This Jack Chaplin restaurant offers lively service and food that manage to combine homey familiarity with twists of near-elegance. For example, a grilled red snapper topped with shrimp and lobster brandy could grace a tonier table, but here it’s served with an ear of com. 2723 Elm St., 214-653-3949. $$.

Fish. This elegant downtown spot got very hot very fast, and it may have gone to their heads. Not only have we seen inconsistencies in the food, but service has been snooty. When they’re on, the acclaimed Green Soup-a shallow bowl piled high with shells, legs, and tails protruding recklessly from a broth-is divine. Late-night menu from 10 p.m.-2 a.m. 302 S. Houston St., 214-747-3474. $$-$$$.

Lefty’s. The menu is small, but Lefty’s features everything you’d expect a good lobster house to have, including beef for those who don’t tike seafood. One bargain: the one-pound lobster with baked potato and com for $10.95. 4021 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-774-9518.$$.

D BEST Lombardi Mare. The stylishly polished interior is a real mind-blower, and so is the food. Feast on five types of farm-fresh oysters, steamed mussels, and lobster. A polenta crusted salmon served with red cabbage was a perfect meal. If we had to choose one place to entertain an out-of-towner, Lombardi Mare would be our choice.5100 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-503-1233. $$.

Picardys Shrimp Shop. New American inventiveness at family-style prices. Picardys finds a regional inspiration for most of its mostly shrimp dishes: Coconut tempura shrimp are tender, juicy, and pleasantly sweet; a side of honey-sour sauce added a potent bite. Grilled shrimp nachos, with shrimp, black beans, white cheese, and salsa, were light and chewy. Picardys’ kid-friendly atmosphere is a plus. 6800 Snider Plaza, 214-373-4099. $-$$.



S&D Oyster Company. S & D can do anything with shrimp, and they have been doing it for longer than we care to remember (or admit we do). The fried shrimp is so delicately breaded you can still see the pink-skinned flesh through the crust. Then it’s butterflied, lightly fried, and served with a dollop of tartar sauce-heavy on the pickle. And no meal here would be complete without a slice of the famous key lime pie. 2701 McKinney Ave., 214-880-0111.$$.



Sea Grill. Mall sprawl makes this Piano oasis hard to find, which would make its unflagging popularity hard to explain if Chef Andy Tun’s highly creative takes on seafood were not so arresting. Dip a half-dozen raw oysters in Tun’s tangy grapefruit-horseradish sauce, and you’ll wonder why you ever overwhelmed such delicacy with ketchup. And your fork’s own weight slides through the barely seared jumbo sea scallop or a moist-hearted cut of grilled tuna. 2205 N. Central Expwy., Ste. 180, Piano, 972-509-5542. $$.



D REVISITS Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab. The good news is that the new McKinney location of this Houston-based restaurant (in the old Fog City Diner) serves the same fresh stone crabs as the Addison location. (Shipments of fresh claws arrive from Florida and the Texas Gulf coast four to six times a week.) The bad news is the service. On a recent visit our waiter was humble but mumbled the nightly specials completely unintelligibly and was slow to deliver everything on a slow night. The claws come in four sizes: medium, large, jumbo, and colossal-we were there for the Monday all-you-can eat feast (medium-sized only) for $34.95, but we found them a a bit mushy compared to the larger critters. Still, this is a new delicacy in Dallas, and they’re sweet and rich. Fortunately, they’re also easy to eat; the kitchen cracks them for you so all you have to do is break them open and fish for the meat. You can eat other stuff with your crab (mediocre salad, onion rings, cole slaw, creamed spinach) but all you’ll remember is the claws and cake-four layers of dark chocolate cake covered with a whipped milk-chocolate icing. 5001 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-503-3079; 2401 McKinney, 214-220-2401.$$-$$$.



Vincent’s. This place hasn’t conformed to any current low-fat or global-spice trends; the signature Red Snapper a la Vincent’s is still a deli-ciously rich filet, lightly breaded, sautéed in loads of lemon butter, and topped with a huge clump of fresh crab. There is a lighter side: A lovely broiled halibut was sauced with about half the snapper’s butter. The whole experience is completely unhip and therefore completely comforting. 3004 N Northwest Highway, 214-352-2692; 2432 Preston at Park, Piano, 972-612-6208.$$-$$$.



SOUTHWESTERN



Blue Mesa. Blue Mesa has become a dining mainstay, faithful to its Southwest mission and consistently good. Adobe pie, the signature dish, is a treat, the bowl-shaped mound of commeal enclosing a stew-like filling of seasoned chicken. Guacamole, barely seasoned and creamy, is some of the best in town. Our only quibble is the Blue Mesa margarita: We want to be warned when we’re going to be served a blue drink-so we can order something else. Village on the Parkway, Tollway at Belt Line Road, 972-934-0165.$-$$.



No Place. Tender elk sirloin and boneless rabbit are sided with sautéed portobello mushrooms and onions. Better-than-beef chicken-fried venison comes with Matt’s famous smoked mashed potatoes. The food is why Matt Martinez Jr. is a Legend-ill his own neighborhood, anyway. 6325 La Vista Dr., 214-328-9078. $$-$$$.



D BEST Star Canyon. Chef-owner Stephan Pyles has created a Dallas destination with his innovative New Texas Cuisine. An appetizer of fried green tomatoes stacked high with layers of Dallas-made mozzarella is a rare case of tall food tasting as good as it looks. And the bone-in cowboy ribeye on a bed of pinto beans and covered with a mound of shoestring onion rings dusted with red chile should be listed in Fodor’s under Dallas’ top attractions. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-520-7827.$$.



Y.O, Ranch. Though this is frontier fare, the kitchen can have a light touch. Delicately grilled, semi-boneless quail is delicious, and the special two-inch, 12-ounce pork chop is as moist and tender as a filet mignon. However, the buck stops short with an undercooked top sirloin. And the bar scene rocks with Jerry Jeff Walker tunes and cigar-smoking buckaroos- the perfect place to take your Yankee guests. 702 RossAve.,2l4-744-3287.$-$$.



SPANISH



Barcelona. Tapas in Spain, of course, are Spanish food. Greenville Avenue is global. So Barcelona serves snack food from all over the world, such as chicken satay, mezes, and tab-bouleh, as well as the stacked potato omelet that is the quintessential Spanish tapa and the buffalo burger-juicy and lean on a toasted roll. 2100 Greenville Ave., 214-826-8600.$.



Cafe Madrid. Dallas’ first tapas bar remains its best, and verybody knows it. Even midweek,this little two-room restaurant has customers waiting at the bar for one of the mismatched tables in the storefront space. For those who insist, there is a prix-fixe, three-course dinner menu, but Cafe Madrid is a great place to linger over a succession of small dishes-an assortment of olives, oxtail stew, the potato omelet called a tortilla, braised lamb slices. 4501 Travis St., 214-528-1731.$$.



La Tasca Espanola. So many tapas, so little time. You can make a meal by choosing small plates from the list of 22-and do it for under S20. We encountered some rough spots after a recent change in ownership, but we hope they will get their classic paella Valencia back in shape. The service is gracious, and the fun wine list is full of inexpensive Spanish reds-one bottle of which cost as much as two glasses in most restaurants. 4131 Lomo Alto Dr., 214-599-9563.$$.

STEAKHOUSE



Arthur’s. Having marked its half-century mile-post, this continental steakhouse still deserves its reputation for dependably upscale dining. It’s clubby and suave in a retro kind of way. A fist-sized tenderloin filet is wonderful, and the martinis are ample. 8350 N. Central Expwy. (in Campbell Center), 214-361-8833. $$$.



Biernat’s. The dinner menu’s specialty section features prime rib, rack of lamb, and jumbo lobsters. The entrées section reveals the imagination of a chef who has more on his mind than meat. The sea bass is moist, but the two mainstays- steak and lobster- are a problem. As for the lunch menu, the steak sandwich comes off well. and so do the slices of grilled and balsamic-dressed portobello mushroom and tomato fanned around a hummock of baked goat cheese. 4217 Oak Lawn, 214-219-2201.$$$.



Bob’s Steak & Chop House. This place dazzles with juicy, tasty cuts of meat-coupled with veggie and potato-and pleasant, attentive service. All at the appropriate price. 4300 Lemmon Ave., 214-528-9446. $$-$$$.



D BEST Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House. Prime rib and a trimmed-to-lean ribeye are robustly rare and complemented with garlic mashed potatoes. Figure in service that is, if not clairvoyant, almost uncannily empathetic, and you’ll have some grasp of the comfortable ambience that keeps this cigar-friendly outpost filled even on weekday evenings. 5330 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-934-2467. $$-$$$.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. Filets are virtually perfect, fashioned from cuts of meat as thick as couch cushions, and the wine list is varied. Even the vegetables are great. Not for the faint of pocketbook, but it’s worth serious consideration when you’re in the mood to blow il oui red-meat style. 5251 Spring Valley Rd., 972-490-9000. $$-$$$.

Kirby’s Steakhouse. One recent dinner had six happy Yankee carnivores whistling Dixie, but more recently we were served a puck-like filet sitting alone on a parsley-less plate. And we didn’t understand what made the mashed potatoes “famous”-we tasted nothing more than potatoes whipped with lots of pepper. On the other hand, service was attentive, the prime rib was pure retro-quality, and the onion rings might be the best in Dallas. 3525 Greenville Avenue 214-821-2122; 3408 Preston Road, Plano, 972-867-2122.$$.

The Palm. The four-pound lobster (at $20 a bound!) is sweet and tender, but the 24-ounce New York strip tends to be overcooked. The Palm staffers are all veterans, and so are most of the customers, but don’t be intimidated by the chummy atmosphere. This is a club anyone with $80 to spare fora lobster can join. 701 Ross Ave.. 214-698-0470. $$-$$$.

Paul’s Porterhouse. Devoted fans of this Restaurant Row mainstay make a compelling argument that it deserves a prominent spot in your regular red-meat rotation. The menu features an array of steak variations, and choices are thick, fine cuts of meat cooked exactly to order. Unexpected alternatives like ostrich and game complicate your entrée decision; so might the taxidermy decor. 10960 Composite Dr., 214-357-0279.$$$.

Stone Trail Steakhouse. Lavish decor, live music for late dancing, an upscale menu and wine list mark this sprawling steak spread as the brainchild of restaurateur Tony Taherzadeh, former owner of Farfallo and Papillon. A clubby ambience and prescient service support terrific beef treatments (try the bone-in ribeye); seafood and other meats provide variety. Dinner only. 14833 Midway Rd., 972-701-9600. $$$.



THAIChow Thai. A strip shopping center doesn’t seem a likely spot for a Thai food epiphany, but you’ll have one here. Excellent Thai classics like vegetables in a fiery green curry and pad Thai taste clean and light. A dessert of fresh mango atop sticky rice is a spectacular ending. 5290 Beltline Rd. at Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-960-2999. $$.

D BEST Liberty Annie Wong, the mother of Thai food in Dallas, still owns three all-Thai restaurants, but Liberty is where her imagination is freed. Romantically and softly lit, with beaded candleshades on each table and bamboo birdcages animated with twinkling Christmas lights, the brightly lit kitchen makes Liberty into real dinner theater, and Wong is the star. What makes her food different is what makes any chef’s food special: imagination. 5631 Alta Ave., 214-887-8795. $$.

Royal Thai, Furnished with ornate Thai antiques and traditional arts. Royal Thai is a pleasantly upscale change from the starkly serviceable interiors of so many Thai restaurants. Chicken packets are wrapped in tenderizing banana leaves. Curries are fragrant and benefit from their presentation under a little domed top. In Old Town, 5500 Greenville Ave., 214-691-3555. $-$$.

Toy’s Cafe. This hole-in-the-wall joint has all the elements of a great neighborhood “find.” The tantalizing aroma of curry and garlic is welcoming. Thai iced tea is a hit; eggplant and tofu in a Thai green curry coconut milk is perfectly prepared. Fresh squid salad with Thai herbs is fresh and tasty. 4422-B Lemmon Ave., 214-528-7233.$.



VIETNAMESE



Mai’s Oriental Cuisine. The Vietnamese menu is the one to go for. Proprietor Mai Pham opened the first Vietnamese restaurant in Dallas, and her food is still terrific at her little restaurant in Snider Plaza. The hot pots are especially good-“hot chic” is the regulars’ favorite. 6912 Snider Plaza, 214-361-8220. $-$$.



Saigon Bistro. Authentic Vietnamese food translated into English. Saigon Bistro aims for the authenticity of a point-and-order Vietnamese restaurant, without the risk. The menu lets you know what to expect, and this is one of the only places in town that serves “festive beef,” a special occasion dinner in Vietnam-one you shouldn’t miss. ]7390_Preston Rd., Ste. 490, 972-380-2766. $-$$.



VietNam. A little bit of Southeast Asia transplanted to East Dallas, VietNam has very little Western influence to make the cultural transition easier. This is Vietnamese food designed for the Vietnamese community. But some things are universal-the appeal of hot soup, for instance. And VietNam’s hot pot, a comforting, steaming caldron of soup, noodles, and vegetables, is enough to share. 4302 Bryan St., 214-821-4542.$-$$.



TARRANT COUNTY

D BEST Angelo’s Barbecue. The Fort Worth landmark is one of the bookends of Dallas-Fort Worth area barbecue, its Dallas counterpart being the original Sonny Bryan’s. Famous for fabulous ribs smoked so tender the meat falls off the bone at the slightest nudge-and are properly enjoyed with a couple of Shiners. 2533 White Settlement Rd., Fort Worth, 817-332-0357.$.



Angeluns. The patio swarms with an artsy Chanel-and-Chardonnay crowd before and after events at the Bass Performance Hall across the street. The “one-world-on-a-plate” menu features designer pizzas, pastas, and spinach and mushroom salads corralled by delicate potato rings. Who cares if it’s more about style than substance? After all, the parent company is in Aspen. 215 E. 4th St., Fort Worth, 817-334-0080.$$.



Benito’s. Like an old familiar friend, Benito’s appearance may be spruced up from time to time, but some things never change-like the food. The queso flameado, with or without chorizo, is flamed tableside and served with fresh pico de gallo and hot flour or corn tor-tillas. Order it first and then spend some time with the menu-everything on it is worth trying. 1450 W. Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth. 817-332-8633. $$.



Bistro Louise. This gem of a bistro offers take-out now, but the staff seems curiously challenged by the idea. The famed smoked duck and stuffed lamb loin travel well, but even delicate reheating of an appetizer of Brie roasted in pastry petals fails to restore it. Savored in the sunny bistro, the cuisine works Mediterranean magic. Enjoy it there as often as possible. 2900 S. Hulen St., Fort Worth, 817-922-9244. $$.

Blue Mesa. See listing in Dallas Southwestern. University Park Village. 1600 S. University, Fort Worth, 817-332-6372. $-$$.

Cacharel. With country French decor, this fixed-price ($34.50) refuge easily tops Arlington’s dining scene, such as it is, with its ninth-floor business building location as well as its-New French cuisine. 2221 E. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 910, Arlington, metro 817-640-998I.$$$.

Cattlemen’s Steak House. Fort Worth ate cattle before cattle was cool, and Cattlemen’s is still the quintessential stockyard steakhouse. There’s not much but beef accompanied by rolls, potatoes, and iceberg lettuce salad, but the atmosphere is genuine cowboy. 2458 N. Main St., Fort Worth, 817-624-3945. $$-$$$.

8.0. See listing in Dallas Eclectic. 111 E. 3rd, Fort Worth, 817-336-0880. $-$$.

D BEST Grape Escape. The gimmick here is education-Grape Escape is trying to do the same thing for wine that brew pubs did for beer. So you order “flights” of the grape of your choice, and the waiter brings a four-glass tasting of say, chardonnay, from Sonoma, Napa. Australia, and New Zealand. Compare and contrast. The food is designed around the wine, so you can change direction mid-meal-start with white wine and suggested matches, finish with red wine and cheese. The selection of small plates -merguez sausages, pate, salads, stuffed potatoes, pizzettes–adds up to a full meal that’s lots of fun. 500 Commerce St., Fort Worth. 817-336-9463. $$.

Joe T. Garcia’s Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery. Although not as fancy as its cousin around the corner, the chefs do an excellent job preparing all the old favorites from burritos to tamales. Breakfast is a work of art here. And on your way out, the bakery, in an alcove off the dining room, sells traditional Mexican breads, rolls, and sweet rolls. 2122 N. Main St., Fort Worth, 817-626-5770.$$.

D BEST Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. The quintessential Fort Worth restaurant. Its location near the Stockyards is a rambling plantation thai can handle the crowds for whom the restaurant’s status hovers somewhere between “institution” and “nirvana.” Wail for a spot outside by the pool and order the enchiladas. Joe doesn’t do credit cards or reservations, either. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth, 817-626-4356. $$.

Kincaid’s. The actual truth is that a Kincaid’s hamburger is too big to get your mouth around and loo good not to try. Lunching business types stand hip to hip with blue-collared brethren at long counters or share benches at tables to inhale half-pound patties of choice chuck that are ground, hand-shaped, and grilled daily. 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth. 817-732-2881.$.

Piccolo Mondo. This neighborhood Italian res-taurant is a suburban strip-mall surprise. It features an elegant, parquet-floored piano bar. a white tablecloth dining room, and service to match the basic Italian fare-heavy pastas, variations of veal scaloppine. If you want imagination, look to the specials. 829 E. Lamar Blvd.. Arlington. 817-265-9174. $-$$.

D REVISITS Reata. We stepped off the elevator just as the sun was setting and immediately fell transformed to the set of Giant, the movie that inspired the decor. Floor-to-ceiling windows show off the sky (forget the landscape), and leather, pine. and copper make you feel at home on this 35th-floor range. Of course. Reata’s upscale “cowboy cuisine’’ includes a chicken-fried steak the size of a boot and steaks with Mexican side dishes, but we decided to try something offbeat. A special of blackened salmon was covered with a roasted corn, red pepper, and cilantro relish with small cubes of queso fresco. But the Vaquero Sampler, a huge platter (our waitress admitted she could only carry one at a time) of Mexican selections (shredded chicken chili rellenos, cacciota cheese enchiladas, a beef tamale, barbecue shrimp enchiladas and rice and beans) was an indistinguishable mess. The four specialties were covered with various cheeses and sauces, and we couldn’t tell where one dish ended and the other began. Bigger isn’t always better. even in Texas. 500 Throckmorton St., Fort Worth, 817-336-1009. $$-$$$.

Reflections. Surely among the most gracefully romantic dining settings in the Dallas-Fort Worth area, Worthington Hotel’s flagship restaurant in downtown Fort Worth offers a refined escape from high-decibel stress. Intuitive service and avant bill of fare live up to the ambience. Delicate pan-seared foie gras with sautéed apples and grilled, whiskey-sauced ostrich medallions with red lentil risotto are representative of the kitchen’s inventions. 200 Main St., Foil Worth, 817-882-1660 or 800-433-5677. $$$.

Saint Emilion. Some are surprised to see this Fori Worth restaurant on the list of top 10 restaurants in the area. But the brick-walled, country French atmosphere is charming, and the food is mostly terrific. The wine list features many vintages from the Saint Emilion region, as you might expect. 3617 W. 7th St., Fort Worth, 817-727-2781. $$$.

Water Street Seafood Company. Although Fort Worth is landlocked, there’s still serviceable seafood to be had. The dining room could use a few more walls and a few less tables, but plenty of daily specials supplement a range of regular entrees thai would make a coastal restaurant proud. 1540 S. University Dr.. Ste. 120. Fort Worth. 817-877-3474. $$.

Next Stop: Barbecue

Another business booming because of DART: When we pulled in to Barbecue Depot about 7:30, the news at the window was bad. No more ribs today. This odd tittle building-It’s housed a dry cleaner and a psychic-is now home to Barbecue Depot, a walk-up spot for brisket, ribs, and sausage and a favorite stop for DART commuters who can’t wait to eat until they get home. Barbecue Depot, 6855 Greenville Ave., (214) 691-7427.

“Mr. Diamond”

You probably already know him. Oscar Calvillo, dubbed “Mr. Diamond” by Mico Rodriguez back in 1981, has worked at almost every Mexican restaurant you can name: Mia’s, Mattito’s, Mi Cocina, La Valentina. If you’re old enough, you’ll remember him from Moctezuma’s on McKinney and Gennaro’s In East Dallas. His customers follow him from place to place because his face Is the guarantee of a good meal with suave service. Right now, he’s starring at Nuevo Leon, and he’s there for the same reason he’s been everywhere else: “I’m always looking for better financing.”

Nuevo Leon, 12895 Josey Ln., 972-488-1984; 2013 Greenville Ave., 214-B87-B148.